COOKING IN A WOOD-FIRED OVEN

For as long as I can remember, my ambition has been to own and cook in a wood-fired slow-combustion oven. So the day I was able to buy one was a dream come true. It’s a relic of the 1920s, bought for the proverbial song, yet it’s undoubtedly the ultimate oven in the house. It’s my go-to for the best indoor baking experience, and I heartily recommend them if you have room.

The basic principles are the same for all wood-fired ovens:

•  Light a small fire with newspaper and small kindling until well established (be sure the vents are open as appropriate).

•  Gradually add larger-size kindling until it’s burning well, then larger log-type pieces can be added.

•  The oven will soon heat, as will the solid hotplates (some will have covers to prevent heat loss). The way to control the heat is via the size of the fire and the wood used.

•  If you want to boost the heat, add small pieces of wood and sticks. For a lower temperature, use larger, slower-burning pieces and adjust vents according to each stove’s air intake arrangements.

I do admit it’s a bit foolish, but some days I like to race the new top-of-the-range modern electric and gas stove against Carmichael, as I affectionately call my slow-combustion stove. It never comes as a surprise to me that Carmichael’s baking results are unfailingly better. It justifies my insistence on having just such an addition to my kitchen.

But even when I had Carmichael, I wasn’t quite satisfied: there was yet another avenue to explore. At our last property, Robert had built me an outdoor pizza oven. I really missed the wonderful evenings we’d shared with friends, sitting around the oven while the pizzas cooked, enjoying a glass or two of homemade sangria. This time, however, it was to be a larger project: a bread oven, which would be far more versatile.

It was quite an undertaking, the end result mammoth, so large it resembles an old Sherman tank, so we affectionately named it ‘Herman’. It has developed a character all of its own.

The style of your own oven depends on the planned use for it and durability. Some can be built in a day; others like ours may take months. You’ll find plenty of DIY options in books as well as online step-by-step videos.

Once built, there are some basic baking principles that apply to all:

•  Start the oven with plenty of scrunched newspaper and small pieces of kindling, leaving the door open to allow best airflow and to allow it to ‘draw’.

•  Gradually add increasingly larger pieces of wood until a good coal base is formed. Continue to feed until the interior of the oven reaches the desired temperature. This may take a couple of hours or more; Robert lights ours the night before it’s needed for cooking.

•  When the temperature is stable at around 250°C, it’s suitable for cooking pizzas, which it will do for at least two hours. Push the coals to the side and, with a wet cloth on a long pole, wipe any stray fine ash from the interior. The fire can be boosted at any stage by the addition of small pieces of wood.

•  Coals should now be removed and bread can now be cooked, as the temperature will drop to 190°C or thereabouts.

•  When the bread is cooked, scones, then cakes and casserole-type dishes, can be baked with the residual heat.

•  At any stage with bread and lower-temperature foods, the fire can be boosted again as before, the hot coals being removed again before baking (except in the case of pizza, where coals are once again just pushed to the side).

We’ve had endless hours of pleasure from cooking this way for family and friends, whether outdoors gathered around Herman, chatting in the cool of the evening, or indoors with Carmichael, warming our toes and backs with the heat emanating from the glowing firebox.

There really is no nicer way to spend an evening.

MAKING A PERFECT PIZZA

As a teenager, I went to live with an Italian family. The pizza baked by the mama was incredibly good. However, it was not for many decades that I really developed an appreciation for all it could be.

Many years later, I worked in a pizza restaurant and honed my pizza techniques. The methods and tips I learned then I pass on to you now, along with the tweakings I’ve made along the way. They will ensure a perfect pizza every time.

Always use the best-quality ingredients – for instance, full-flavoured tomatoes and fresh basil. And, of course, the best type of oven is wood-fired – if you have one. If you don’t, any oven is fine!

A pizza party is great fun. Make the dough an hour or two ahead of time and have it balled up and risen when guests arrive. Each person can then build their own favourite pizza, and the host can be the baker.

TIPS FOR PERFECT PIZZA

•  Use dough recipe on page,

•  When the dough has risen to double in size, cut off pieces to desired sizes and shape each into a ball. You will need:

    – An individual pizza – 150g each

    – Pizza for two – 300g

    – Large – 500g

    – Family-sized – 600g

•  This second rising is essential – don’t be tempted to skip it. Sprinkle a little flour on the bench top and place each ball of dough on this, leaving room for spreading. Cover with a clean tea towel, and leave to rise for about 20 minutes until puffy.

•  To fit dough to the pizza tray, take each ball of dough and gently press around the edges with your fingertips. Turn dough over and press again, this time the next step in. Lift dough carefully and flop over your wrist so that it stretches evenly until it’s approximately the size of your tray. Never be tempted to use a rolling pin – that would compress all the little pockets of airy lightness formed by the final rising. Fit onto tray. Shape a small ridge around the edge. Spread with some of the prepared sauce (see page) and add toppings sparingly.

•  Pizza should be baked at a high temperature, no less than 240°C (220°C fan-forced) and usually for no more than 15 to 20 minutes. In a wood-fired oven, often 5 minutes is generally sufficient.

•  When removing your delicious pizza from the oven, leave to stand 2 minutes before cutting into large wedges to serve. You are guaranteed not to be disappointed.

THE PERFECT PIZZA

Makes one family-sized pizza (approximately 600g)

    Be sure to read the ‘Tips for perfect pizza’, opposite, before mixing the dough. While your dough is rising, make your tomato topping, which needs to be rich and unctuous. This sauce is quickly and easily made, and really delicious. The following quantities will make one large pizza or 2–3 smaller ones.

    Basic pizza dough

    2 cups (300g) plain flour, plus extra for kneading

    2 teaspoons instant dried yeast

    1 teaspoon salt

    1½ teaspoons sugar

    1 tablespoon light olive oil

    1 cup (250ml) warm water, approximately

    Tomato sauce

    450g diced tomatoes – well-flavoured fresh, tinned, bottled or frozen

    1 tablespoon tomato paste

    2 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed

    ½ teaspoon brown sugar

    ½ teaspoon salt

    2 teaspoons chutney (any sort)

    1 sprig fresh rosemary (or ½ teaspoon dried)

    Toppings, as desired (see page for suggestions)

    For the dough: in a medium bowl, mix the flour, yeast, salt and sugar. Make a well in the centre, pour in the oil and most of the water, and mix to a soft (but not sticky) dough, adding a little extra water if needed.

          Cover the bowl with a clean tea towel, and leave dough to rise in a warm place for about 1 hour or until approximately doubled in size.

          While the dough is proving, prepare the tomato sauce. Combine all ingredients in a saucepan, bring to the boil, then simmer gently for about 20 minutes or until it has reduced to a thick puree.

          Cool before using. Remove sprig of rosemary.

          When the dough has doubled in size, punch it down to expel trapped air, then use a spatula or dough scraper to remove from bowl. Form into a ball.

          Sprinkle a little flour on the benchtop and place the dough on this, leaving room for spreading. Cover with a tea towel once more, and leave to rise for about 20 minutes until puffy.

          Preheat oven to 240°C (220°C fan-forced). Grease pizza tray or, even better, brush with olive oil.

          Gently press and stretch dough to fit prepared tray as directed on page. Spread with tomato sauce and desired toppings.

          Bake pizza for 15–20 minutes until golden and crisp.

TOPPINGS

Keep in mind that too much topping will weigh down the dough of your base. Aim for maximum flavour with minimum weight.

Cheese: I mix 3 cheeses in the following proportions: 2 parts tasty grated (for creaminess), 2 parts mozzarella (for the stretch factor) and 1 part parmesan (for a boost of flavour).

Each large to family-sized pizza should contain a maximum of 150–160g of the cheese mixture in total. Any more than this will turn the pizza into a type of cheese melt.

•  First, spread a layer of your prepared, cooled tomato sauce over your dough on the tray.

•  Sprinkle with a small amount of the cheese mixture. This will help to keep your toppings in place.

•  Now add your protein toppings, such as salami, ham, chicken (but not seafood or bacon, at this stage).

•  Add vegetable toppings.

•  Sprinkle with another layer of cheese.

•  Add seafood toppings, such as anchovies or prawns. Bacon should also be added sparingly at this stage.