Santo Domingo: The Zona Colonial
The Zona Colonial is the historic heart of Santo Domingo. This square mile of pretty streets and shady squares contains some of the oldest colonial buildings in the Western Hemisphere, including the cathedral. To walk along the Calle de las Damas is to retrace the steps of the first Spanish explorers, who used Santo Domingo as a base for the conquest of Latin America. Yet, this district is no museum piece. It’s dotted with shops, restaurants, and cafés, many housed in colonial-era buildings. It is also a real neighborhood, where families sit outside their homes enjoying the cool of the evening.
1. The Cathedral
This exuberant mix of Gothic and Classical influences dates back to 1540. It has survived earthquakes and pirate attacks, and was reputedly the original resting place of Christopher Columbus. Its cool, dark interior contains magnificent monuments.
2. Torre del Homenaje
Built as a watchtower in 1503, Homage Tower was used to sight approaching pirate raiders, but later served as a prison, even during Trujillo’s dictatorship (for further details see 1961: Assassination of Trujillo).
Torre del Homenaje, Fortaleza Ozama • Open 9am–4pm Mon–Sat, 10am–4pm Sun • Adm US$1
3. Parque Colon
Named after Columbus, the large open space is dominated by a grandiose statue of the explorer. The square’s cafés are a good point for people-watching.
4. Calle de las Damas
A medieval thoroughfare lined with museums and churches, this street contains some of the old city’s most tastefully restored buildings.
5. The National Pantheon
Formerly a Jesuit church, this Neo-Classical building commemorates the country’s national heroes. A solemn atmosphere fills the large marble-lined interior, and a uniformed soldier stands guard over the eternal flame.The National Pantheon • Open 10am–5pm daily • Free
6. Hostal Nicolas de Ovando
This hotel is set within the mansion of the colony’s first governor and features the original balconies and Andalusian fountain. A great place to stay, with views of the Ozama River.
7. Las Atarazanas
A line of former warehouses, converted into shops and restaurants. The 16th-century buildings are linked by pleasant courtyards. The Calle Las Atarazanas ends in the Puerta Las Atarazanas, in front of the cruise harbor.
8. Alcazar de Colon
The stately 2-story palace built by Christopher Columbus’s son, Diego, overlooks the river and the large Plaza España. This Moorish-influenced coral-stone mansion is Santo Domingo’s most impressive colonial site.Alcazar de Colón • Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sun • Adm US$3
9. Las Casas Reales
The Real Audiencia or Supreme Court once sat in this early 16th-century mansion, now a colonial museum. Look out for the reloj del sol (sundial) reputedly placed for judges to check the time.
10. Casa del Cordon
The House of the Rope is said to be the first 2-story building in the Americas. Diego Columbus lived here while his palace was being built. Its façade is decorated by a chiseled sash-and-cord motif.Casa del Cordón, located in the Banco Popular • Open 8am–3pm Mon–Fri • Courtyard only • Free
Drake’s Destruction
Colonial Santo Domingo’s heyday came to an abrupt end in 1586 when Sir Francis Drake’s 20-strong fleet sailed upriver. Unopposed, the English indulged in a month-long orgy of looting and demolition, while the Protestant Sir Francis slung his hammock in the cathedral. Santo Domingo was ruined.
Tip: The bustling Café El Conde, on the corner of Parque Colón, may not be the most luxurious establishment in town, but is ideal for a cold drink, snack or simple meal. Tip: Shorts and swimwear are not suitable for the city center, especially in churches and the Pantheon. Even poor Dominicans dress smartly, and they expect the same from visitors.
