The Southwest
A large swathe of territory extends down from the western outskirts of Santo Domingo to the Haitian border, incorporating some of the country’s most diverse and dramatic landscapes. The coastline contains a variety of beaches, ranging from remote and undeveloped coves to crowded weekend favorites. Inland, lush, irrigated farmland stands in stark contrast to some of the country’s driest desert terrain. Historic towns and cities dot this corner of the Dominican Republic, but its real appeal lies in its natural grandeur. The Sierra de Baoruco is an almost untouched wilderness of mountain rainforest; the Lago Enriquillo, famous for its crocodiles, is better known, but is isolated enough to inspire awe. Tourism has yet to change the character of this region, where the proximity of Haiti is keenly felt, but it’s only a matter of time.
1. San Cristobal
Birthplace of the dictator Trujillo, this busy provincial center received a great deal of public money during his 30-year regime. It resulted in the construction of an impressive cathedral and surrounding public buildings as well as two nearby residences for Trujillo. The cathedral is certainly worth a visit in order to view the dictator’s ornate tomb, which was never used. More interesting are the caves at El Pomier and the beaches at Palenque and Najayo, to the south of San Cristóbal.
2. Bani
Set among flat sugarcane-producing land, Baní is an industrious place, its relative wealth due to nearby coffee plantations, salt mining, and commerce. It is also renowned nationally for its particularly delicious mangoes, in season from May to July. Its most famous son is Máximo Gómez (for further details see Dominican Freedom Fighter), who with José Martí was the foremost champion of Cuban independence. A park containing his statue can be reached on foot from the pleasant Parque Central. Also worth a look is Baní’s local beach, Los Almendros, with rough sand but with restaurants and plenty of atmosphere at weekends.
3. Las Salinas
The small peninsula forming the southern edge of the Bahía de Las Calderas creates an attractive ecosystem, containing salt flats and the most extensive sand dunes in the Caribbean. A naval base is sited here, but visitors can drive through to reach the outpost of Las Salinas, where a hotel and restaurant caters to visitors. The working salt extraction plant is conspicuous through its huge white mountains of finished salt. But the most spectacular views are from the sandy hillsides facing out to the Caribbean.
Hotel Las Salinas, Puerto Hermosa 7, Baní • 809 866 8141
4. Azua
Swelteringly hot in the plains between sea and mountains, Azua de Compostela looks like an ordinary Dominican town, but it is one of the New World’s oldest cities. It was founded in 1504 by Diego de Valásquez, who went on to conquer Cuba. The old colonial settlement was ravaged by war and earthquakes, and the town was rebuilt away from the sea. There are some pretty painted wooden houses at a distance from the main road, but most visitors and locals prefer to head for the Playa Monte Río, a quiet and undeveloped beach with fabulous views over the Bahía de Ocoa and surrounding mountains.
5. Barahona
The biggest town in the region, the port of Barahona is the gateway to the South-west’s natural attractions. A broad seaside boulevard runs the length of the town, and the narrow streets around the Parque Central have some nice old buildings. The advent of an international airport in the 1990s encouraged some tourist development, including a beach-side resort in the town itself. However, few visitors confine themselves to Barahona, preferring to explore the coastline to the south and the two nearby national parks.
6. Lago Enriquillo
Probably the country’s most intriguing natural phenomenon, this huge saltwater lake is eerily atmospheric in its spectacular natural setting. The lake also forms an inland ecosystem, with its mixture of saline water, ancient fossils, and varied wildlife. Chief among these are the American crocodiles that inhabit its main island, the Isla Cabritos (for further details see Lago Enriquillo).
7. Laguna Rincon
Filled with fresh rather than salt water, Laguna Rincón, near the village of Cabral, is another surprisingly large lake, the country’s second biggest after Laguna Limón. You can get close to the water on the small road from Cabral which skirts the lake, but the best way is to take a guided Boat Trip. The lagoon and surrounding land forms an officially protected Reserva Científica (Scientific Reserve) and is home to a colony of freshwater slider turtles, found only on the Hispaniola Island.
8. Sierra de Baoruco
A wild and rugged range of mountains that march westwards over the Haitian border, these impressive peaks make up the Dominican Republic’s second highest sierra. It was in this impenetrable tangle of mountains, valleys, and forests that the Taino leader Enriquillo assembled his rebel forces and held out for 14 years against the Spanish. Now designated a national park, the range is covered in dense pine forests and subtropical rainforest. There are few passable roads, but it’s theoretically possible, with a sturdy jeep, to drive along the rough track from Pedernales to Aguacate.
9. Pedernales
Pedernales is quite literally the end of the track, the final Dominican outpost before crossing over into Haiti. This remote settlement of one-story concrete buildings huddled together, is hardly a conventional tourist destination. But the place is not without interest, especially on Mondays and Fridays when the no-man’s-land between the two countries is the scene of a large open-air market. The village’s beach is also worth a visit, and from here it’s usually easy to walk over the border.
10. Parque Nacional Jaragua
The park comprises the most southerly tip of the country, the Pedernales Peninsula, as well as Isla Beata, an uninhabited scrub-covered island. At more than 500 sq miles (1,293 sq km), this is the biggest of the national parks, comprising dry limestone studded with cacti and other desert vegetation. This terrain is home to a huge array of land and sea birds, iguanas, lizards, and bats. The best way to get a sense of its natural importance is to contact the national park office near the village of Oviedo, for the boat tours of Laguna Oviedo.Open 9am–5pm daily • Adm
Bateyes
The area around Barahona is dotted with so-called bateyes, barrack-like villages usually inhabited by Haitian cane-cutters, who work seasonally on the plantations. These settlements have been condemned over the years as squalid, but for many Haitians and Haitian-descended Dominicans they represent a real sense of community and, as a result, are slowly being improved.
Day Trip to Laguna Oviedo
Morning
Set off from Barahona, taking the coast road south. Drive slowly for the hairpin bends and to enjoy the views, with mountains on your right and the Caribbean Sea glistening to the left. Just as you enter Paraiso, turn off to the left for a breathtaking lookout point. Then continue to Los Patos. Go over the humpback bridge over the River Patos, then turn left into the parking area where you will find the world’s shortest river at just 200 feet long. Enjoy an early lunch of freshly caught fish with crispy plantain chips known as tostones, sat on the banks of the river.
Afternoon
After lunch continue on the same coast road all the way to Oviedo. Once you arrive at Oviedo, look out for the park office on the left, from where you can take a boat tour of Laguna Oviedo. There are a choice of tours that last for between 2 and 4 hours, and cost US$60–90 per boat. The laguna has more than 24 small islands, home to colonies of Rhinoceros Iguana, and is a birdwatcher’s paradise, with heron, stern, golden spoonbill, frigate birds, pelicans, and red flamingos.
Retrace your journey back towards Barahona. Once you have passed Los Patos, turn right into San Rafael – another famous beach, where the river meets the sea. Bathe in the river’s clear waters and sip a rum and coke from one of the beach shacks before heading back to Barahona.
Best of the Rest
1. Playa Najayo
A favorite beach with residents of Santo Domingo and San Cristóbal, this strip of golden sand isn’t quiet, but it’s a good place for a drink and a meal.
2. Playa Palenque
This beach is another popular hangout for locals, especially families. There is excellent food available at Cocolandia at the western end of the beach.
3. Playa Quemaito
One of the first beaches on the long and scenic road south of Barahona, this is a lovely and little-known stretch of wild coastline, backed by rugged cliffs and woods.
4. Larimar Mines
A rough track leads inland from the village of El Arroyo to the open-cast mines where semi-precious larimar is excavated. You can buy pieces of the blue mineral.
5. Baoruco
The charming fishing village, with the small Hotel Casa Bonita nearby in the hills, is situated close to a beach with white pebbles (for further details see Playa Baoruco), behind which steep wooded hillsides tumble down towards the sea.
6. Paraiso
The small seaside town called Paradise is aptly named, with a gorgeous, if somewhat unkempt beach. It’s shaded by sea grape trees and bisected by a cool freshwater stream.
7. Polo Magnetico
Up in the hills from Cabral is a scientific enigma – a stretch of road that appears to run upwards, but in fact descends. Take off your handbrake and see.
8. Cabo Rojo
A desolate expanse of gray sand and rocky bluffs, this empty beach (for further details see Playa Cabo Rojo) shows the scars of bauxite extraction. But it’s a wildlife paradise for pelicans and other seabirds.
9. Bahia de las Aguilas
Few visitors make it to this deserted spot, a sweeping bay surrounded by rocky terrain. It’s named after eagles, but there are more gulls, waders, and pelicans on display (for further details see Bahia de las Aguilas).
10. El Aguacate
As remote a place as you’re likely to find, up a tortuous mountain road from Pedernales. The tiny border post of El Aguacate (Avocado) is almost lost among pine forests and clouds.
Restaurants
1. Aubergine
Located in the hills southwest of Santo Domingo, Aubergine serves European dishes with an Asian twist.Cambita Garabito, La Colonia, Km 6.5, San Cristóbal • 809 374 1382 • Open noon–11pm Fri & Sat, to 9pm Sun. Closed Mon–Thu • over US$40
2. Pizzeria d’Lina
Family-run restaurant serving pizza, plato del dia, meat, and seafood. Dine at a table on the quiet, pleasant patio and enjoy the excellent service.Ave 30 Mayo, Barahona • 524 3681 • Open 7am–midnight daily • US$10–US$20
3. Cira
The tables at this friendly place with a family ambience, are set in the garden amid trees and flowers. The menu is based mostly around goat and fish.Av Francisco del Rosario Sánchez 101, Azua • 809 521 3740 • Open 9:30am–10pm daily • US$10–US$20
4. Francia
Large helpings of good value, traditional Dominican dishes, served in simple surroundings.Av Francisco del Rosario Sánchez 104, Azua • 809 521 2900 • Open 9am–10pm daily • US$10–US$20
5. Las Salinas
Casual bar and restaurant overlooking Las Salinas. Popular with sailors for its seafood, burgers, and pasta.Puerto Hermoso 7, Baní • 809 866 8141 • Open 7am–2pm daily • US$30–US$40
6. Los Robles
The most popular restaurant in town, Los Robles serves good international and local cuisine at reasonable prices.Av Enriquillo/Nuestra Señora de la Rosario, Barahona • 809 524 1629 • Open 9am–2am daily • US$10–US$20
7. La Casona
A popular choice with local workers, who head here for lunch, this restaurant has a pretty courtyard, boasts great service, and offers a wide variety of traditional Dominican dishes.Calle Uruguay, Barahona • Open 10am–6pm • under US$10
8. Brisas del Caribe
The best restaurant in town, with delicious seafood and good service in pleasant surroundings. Packed at lunchtime.Brisas del Caribe, Malecón, Barahona • 809 524 2794 • Open 9am–midnight • US$20–US$30
9. Meson Suiza
Dominican and international dishes are served with a Swiss touch, just a few blocks from Parque Central.Calle 19 de Marzo 121, Azua • 809 521 9821 • Open 11am–11pm • US$10–US$20
10. Casa Bonita
Eat al fresco in a lovely setting on a hillside overlooking nearby Baoruco beach. The restaurant, open all day, is busy in Dominican holidays.Carretera de la Costa km 17 • 809 476 5059 • Open 7am–11pm daily • US$30–US$40
