Tremé-Lafitte
Tremé-Lafitte
Neighborhood Top Five
1 Backstreet Cultural Museum Learning about the city’s deep well of unique African American institutions at this museum, dedicated to a street-level appreciation of local culture.
2 Louis Armstrong Park Catching live music or a parade in this culturally dynamic public space, which is a common starting point for protests and festivals.
3 Lafitte Greenway Biking or walking the length of Tremé to Mid-City along a well-groomed public green space.
4 St Louis Cemetery No 1 Wandering amidst the tombs of the city’s long-passed residents in one of the most famous cemeteries in the city.
5 St Augustine Catholic Church Watching the local gospel choir belt out their Sunday best at this storied African American church.
Explore Tremé-Lafitte
For our purposes, Tremé-Lafitte is bound by Rampart St, the Lafitte Greenway, Broad St and St Bernard Ave. The historical core of the Tremé is the area between Rampart St, Claiborne Ave, St Bernard Ave and Basin St. Much of this real estate is taken up by Louis Armstrong Park. This is where you’ll find some of the most attractive streets in the neighborhood; the area where Gov Nicholls St intersects with Henriette DeLille St is particularly lovely. If you were a fan of the show Treme, the 1200 block of Tremé Street was a popular filming location. In general, the neighborhood becomes more rundown the closer you get to Basin St.
Between Claiborne Ave and Broad St, the neighborhood becomes almost purely residential. There are few outright tourist attractions here, but there are some very fine restaurants up this way. With that said, there are better areas of the city for walking.
Local Life
Street parades Second Lines – neighborhood parades – can be found across New Orleans, but they often originate in, or at least pass through, Tremé-Lafitte.
Free festivals We’re not exaggerating: there is basically at least one free music event in Louis Armstrong Park every month.
Bayou Road rambler Bayou Rd between Esplanade Ave and Broad St is a bricked-over thoroughfare that makes for a wonderful, short stroll.
Getting There & Away
Bus The area is relatively well served by city bus lines – the 51, 52, 57 and 91 buses all pass through Tremé-Lafitte.
Streetcar The Rampart Streetcar line runs along the edge of the neighborhood.
Bike The Lafitte Greenway begins (or ends, depending on where you’re coming from) here. Esplanade Ave has a bicycle lane.
Car Parking is rarely an issue out here.
TOP SIGHT
ST LOUIS CEMETERY NO 1
New Orleans was historically influenced by the massive mausoleum-building cultures of the Spanish and French, and large above-ground necropolises are a common sight across town. The most famous is St Louis Cemetery No 1, opened in 1789. Ongoing vandalism forced the Archdiocese of New Orleans to limit visitation to relatives and organized tours. Our favorite tour group is Save Our Cemeteries.
Group Graves
The Italian Mutual Benevolent Society Tomb is responsible for the tallest monument in the cemetery. Like other immigrant groups in New Orleans, the Italians formed a benevolent association to pool funds and assist in covering burial costs. In 1969, a demented rape scene in the movie Easy Rider was filmed here.
Marie Laveau
The supposed crypt of voodoo queen Marie Laveau, where people leave offerings, is a big drawcard. Historically, this crypt has been a source of much of the vandalism that has plagued St Louis No 1. That’s ironic (and tragic), as debates over which Marie Laveau – mother or daughter, if either – was actually buried here show no signs of reaching a resolution.
Other Famous Graves
St Louis No 1 is filled with some of the city’s most prominent historical figures. Civil-rights figure Homer Plessy rests in the cemetery, as do real-estate speculator Bernard de Marigny (namesake of Faubourg Marigny) and architect Henry Latrobe (designer of the central tower of St Louis Cathedral, among other structures).
DON’T MISS
AMarie Laveau tomb
AItalian Mutual Benevolent Society Tomb
AGrave of Homer Plessy
Practicalities
A(MAP GOOGLE MAP)
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%504-596-3050
Awww.saveourcemeteries.org/st-louis-cemetery-no-1
A425 Basin St
Aguided tour adult/child $20/free
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htours 10am, 11:30am & 1pm Mon-Sat, 10am Sun
1Sights
Many of the sights within the Tremé are actually at its edges, including the Louis Armstrong Park and St Louis Cemetery No 1. Other sites can be found within the neighborhood itself, which is, for our purposes, bisected by Claiborne Ave. While the Tremé is fairly light on sights, there’s a lot to be said for just strolling in the area around Gov Nicholls and Henriette DeLille Sts; this is simply a very attractive part of the city. The Lafitte neighborhood is an area of mainly residential housing and the eponymous Lafitte Greenway.
oBackstreet Cultural MuseumMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-522-4806; www.backstreetmuseum.org; 1116 Henriette Delille St; $10; h10am-4pm Tue-Sat)
Mardi Gras Indian suits grab the spotlight with dazzling flair – and finely crafted detail – in this informative museum examining the distinctive elements of African American culture in New Orleans. The museum isn’t terribly big (it’s the former Blandin’s Funeral Home), but if you have any interest in the suits and rituals of Mardi Gras Indians, as well as Second Line parades and Social Aid and Pleasure Clubs (the local African American community version of civic associations), you need to stop by.
The guided tours are usually great, but sometimes feel rushed, so be sure to ask lots of questions. Ask for information about upcoming Second Lines so you can check one out firsthand.
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
MEET THE BOYS ON THE BATTLEFRONT
The most significant African American tradition of Carnival began in 1885 when a Mardi Gras Indian gang, calling itself the Creole Wild West, paraded the city’s backstreets on Mardi Gras. Their elaborately beaded and feathered suits and headdresses made a huge impression and many more black Indian gangs soon followed – the Wild Tchoupitoulas, Yellow Pocahontas and Golden Eagles, among many others. The new tradition, some say, signified respect for Native Americans who constantly fought US expansion in the New World. A canon of black Indian songs was passed down from generation to generation, with lyrics often fusing English, Creole French, Choctaw and African words until their meaning was obscure.
From the beginning, ‘masking Indian’ was a serious proposition. Tribes became organized fighting units headed by a big chief, with spy boys, flag boys and wild men carrying out carefully defined roles. Tremendous pride was evident in the costly and expertly sewn suits, and when two gangs crossed paths, an intense confrontation would ensue as members of each tribe sized each other up. Often violence would break out. As is the case with many of Mardi Gras’ strongest traditions, this was no mere amusement.
Big chiefs became pillars of communities, and some became legends – among them Big Chief Jolly of the Wild Tchoupitoulas and Tootie Montana of the Yellow Pocahontas. Chief Jolly, an uncle of the Neville Brothers, made his mark by recording black Indian classics backed by the Meters. The Wild Magnolias, long led by Big Chief Bo Dollis (who died in 2015), is one of the most dynamic Indian groups and appears at clubs in New Orleans and at Jazz Fest.
Over the years, black Indian suits gained recognition as extravagant works of folk art and they are exhibited as such at the Backstreet Cultural Museum, at the Presbytère and at Jazz Fest. Layers of meaningful mosaics are designed and created in patterns of neatly stitched sequins. Multilayered feathered headdresses – particularly those of the big chiefs – are more elaborate and flamboyant than the headgear worn by Las Vegas show performers. The making of a new suit can take the better part of a year.
Visitors not in town for Mardi Gras are likely to have other opportunities to see the Indians at Jazz Fest or occasionally performing in clubs such as Tipitina’s. They also parade annually on St Joseph’s Night (roughly midway through the Lenten season) and on Indian Sunday (also known as Super Sunday).
Lafitte GreenwayPARK
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; N Alexander & St Louis to Basin & St Louis; h24hrs; 
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This 2.6-mile green corridor connects the Tremé to City Park via Bayou St John, traversing the length of the Tremé and Mid-City along the way. It’s a bicycle- and pedestrian-friendly trail that follows the course of one of the city’s oldest transportation paths – this was originally a canal and, later, a railroad.
Over the years, the railroad right-of-way became decrepit; it is hoped the thoughtfully landscaped Greenway will reverse the legacies of that blight. The trail includes a raised asphalt path, energy-efficient trail lighting and wheelchair-accessible curb ramps. Although the Greenway is well lit, exercise caution late at night.
Louis Armstrong ParkPARK
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 701 N Rampart St; hsunrise-sunset)
The entrance to this massive park has got to be one of the greatest gateways in the US, a picturesque arch that ought rightfully to be the final set piece in a period drama about Jazz Age New Orleans. The original Congo Sq is here, as well as a Louis Armstrong statue; (MAP GOOGLE MAP) and a bust of Sidney Bechet. The Mahalia Jackson Theater hosts opera and Broadway productions. The park often hosts live-music festivals throughout the year.
St Louis Cemetery No 1CEMETERY
See here.
Congo SquareHISTORIC SITE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Louis Armstrong Park; hsunrise-sunset) F
In Louis Armstrong Park, Congo Sq was a Sunday gathering spot for slaves under the French Code Noir. For one day of the week, the enslaved could sing the songs and practice the cultural traditions of the continent they were exiled from. This was the groundwork of a uniquely New Orleanian link to Africa and much of the city’s most iconic food, music and culture has been built on that foundation.
Today Congo Sq is marked by a few stylized statues and sculptures of the city’s musical heritage and heroes. The space is also a major jumping-off point for protest marches, rallies and Second Lines.
CLOSING THE CONGO SQUARE CIRCLE
Near the main entrance to Louis Armstrong Park is one of the most important spots, arguably, in the development of modern music: Congo Square. Once known as Place de Negres, this area used to be just outside the city’s walls (Rampart St, as the name suggests, was the town limit). Under French Colonial law, slaves were allowed to gather here on Sundays. The period of rest became one of both celebration and preservation of West African rituals, which largely revolved around song and dance. Sunday became a day of letting off steam and channeling latent discontent, and it must have been, at the time, the largest celebration of traditional African culture in continental North America – slaves were forbidden from practicing traditional culture in the American colonies.
The practice was shut down when US settlers took over New Orleans, but it was alive long enough to imprint its musical stamp on the city’s cultural substrate. By the late 19th century, brass bands were blending African rhythms with classical music. These bands played on a weekly basis in Congo Sq and their sound eventually evolved, especially near the bordellos of nearby Storyville, into jazz – itself a foundation for the variations of pop music (R&B, rock and roll, even hip-hop) the USA would give the world in the 20th century.
Le Musée de f.p.c.MUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Free People of Color Museum; %504-323-5074; www.lemuseedefpc.com; 2336 Esplanade Ave; tour regular/private $15/25; htours 1-4pm Tue-Fri)
Inside a lovely 1859 Greek Revival mansion in the Upper Tremé, this museum showcases a 30-year collection of artifacts, documents, furniture and art. It tells the story of a forgotten subculture: the ‘free people of color’ before the Civil War, who played a unique but prominent role in the development of the city. Visitation is by guided tour, which should be arranged in advance.
Rooms spotlight different eras in the city’s history, with a focus on physician and newspaper publisher Dr Louis Charles Roudanez, born in 1823. The small but fascinating collection includes original documentation of slaves who became free, either by coartación (buying their own freedom) or as a reward for particularly good service.
St Augustine’s ChurchCHURCH
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-525-5934; www.staugchurch.org; 1210 Governor Nicholls St; hMass 10am Sun, 5pm Wed)
Open since 1841, ‘St Aug’s’ is the oldest African American Catholic church in the country, a place where Creoles, émigrés from St Domingue and free persons of color could worship shoulder to shoulder, even as separate pews were designated for slaves. Call ahead to see if it’s possible to arrange a visit. Don’t miss the Tomb of the Unknown Slave, fashioned to resemble a grim cross assembled from chain links.
Mortuary ChapelCHURCH
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Our Lady of Guadalupe; %504-525-1551; www.judeshrine.com; 411 N Rampart St; donations accepted; hMass 7am & noon Mon-Fri, 7am & 4pm Sat, 7:30am, 9:30am, 11:30am & 1:30pm Sun)
A fear of yellow-fever contagion led the city to forbid funerals for fever victims at St Louis Cathedral. Built in 1826 near St Louis Cemetery No 1, the Mortuary Chapel offered services for victims, its bell tolling constantly during epidemics. In 1931 it was renamed Our Lady of Guadeloupe. Inside the chapel is a statue of St Jude, patron saint of impossible cases.
New Orleans African American MuseumMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-566-1136; www.noaam.org; 1418 Governor Nicholls St; adult/student/child $7/5/3; h11am-4pm Wed-Sat & by appointment)
This small museum is in the midst of a $6-million renovation and is closed to visitors, although it still offers Tremé-based walking tours. Before closing, the museum displayed an eclectic mix of exhibits mainly dating from the slavery and Reconstruction eras. Its location alone makes the spot of interest: the Meilleur-Goldthwaite House, aka the Tremé Villa, is the site of the city’s first brickyard and an exemplar of the Creole architectural style. In the back are restored shotgun houses and slave quarters.
CEMETERY VISITS
The Archdiocese of New Orleans decided in 2015 to limit visitation to St Louis Cemetery No 1 to relatives of those interred in the cemetery and to approved tour groups.
The decision stemmed from ongoing acts of vandalism on cemetery grounds. One of the most notable occurred in 2013 when vandals painted the tomb of voodoo queen Marie Laveau bright pink. Not only did the vandals desecrate the tomb, but they also used moisture-trapping latex paint. Moisture is a key source of damage to brick-and-mortar tombs. Restoring the tomb cost $10,000. There is also a long history of visitors scrawling three X’s across Laveau’s crypt as part of a wish-fulfillment ritual. Elsewhere in the cemetery, vandals have stolen elaborate pieces of fencing and raided tombs.
Another reason for the new rule? By requiring tour companies to obtain a license, there is more oversight over their quality and behavior. For tours by experienced and knowledgeable guides, consider Save Our Cemeteries.
5Eating
As befits one of the nation’s most storied African American neighborhoods, you’ll find some of the city’s landmark, African American–owned restaurants in Tremé-Lafitte. Although the vibe is generally pretty casual, there are a few dressier spots.
Buttermilk DropBAKERY$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-252-4538; www.buttermilkdrop.com; 1781 N Dorgenois St; baked goods $1-4; h6am-4pm Mon-Sat, to 3pm Sun)
You came to New Orleans and thought, ‘I have to get beignets,’ right? And sure, beignets are fine, but the best dessert in town is the buttermilk drop – a small donut hole filled with roughly a metric ton of butter, so rich and smooth and glazed and good it haunts our dreams.
Buy your drops at this ramshackle bakery, which has dusty floors and barely anything that qualifies as seating (get the food to go), and know you have experienced culinary bliss.
Lil’ Dizzy’sCREOLE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-569-8997; www.lildizzyscafe.com; 1500 Esplanade Ave; breakfast $7-14, lunch $11-16, buffet $16-18; h7am-2pm Mon-Sat, 8am-2pm Sun)
One of the city’s great lunch spots, Dizzy’s does mean soul food specials in a historic shack owned by the Baquet family, who have forever been part of the culinary backbone of New Orleans. The fried chicken is excellent and the bread pudding is divine.
Pagoda CafeCAFE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-644-4178; www.pagodacafe.net; 1430 N Dorgenois St; breakfast $3-9, pastries under $5, sandwiches $8-10; h7:30am-3pm Tue-Fri, 8am-3pm Sat & Sun; 
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In a land of dimly lit dive bars and heavy Creole buffets, Pagoda Cafe is a sprightly diversion. This compact place serves healthy fare with a global spin. In the morning, try bacon-and-egg tacos, toast with Nutella and bananas, and housemade granola. For lunch to-go, grab a turnover or sausage pastry or settle in for a lemongrass tofu banh mi.
Also sells coffee and teas. All seating is outdoors.
Cajun SeafoodSEAFOOD$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-948-6000; http://cajunseafoodnola.com; 1479 N Claiborne Ave; takeout $5-19; h10:30am-8:30pm Mon-Sat, from 11am Sun)
The name says it all: this is a grocery store–takeout that’s a good budget option for seafood and cooked hot plates, such as fried chicken, boudin, fish plates and the like. The boiled shrimp is always freakishly huge, as are the shrimp po’boys.
ManchuAMERICAN, CHINESE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-947-5507; www.manchuchicken.com; 1413 N Claiborne Ave; mains $5-12; h10:30am-9pm Mon-Sat, 11:30am-7pm Sun)
Also known as the ‘purple shop’ (when you see it, you’ll know why), Manchu is a dingy little takeout that is most famous for its fried chicken wings. You can also pick up fried seafood, grilled pork chops and bowls of yakamein – a sort of black New Orleans version of pho, renowned for its hangover-curing powers.
This place is ostensibly Chinese – they sell fried rice and egg rolls – but the dishes that will draw you in are New Orleans soul food.
Willie Mae’s Scotch HouseSOUTHERN US$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-822-9503; www.williemaesnola.com; 2401 St Ann St; fried chicken $15; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat)
Willie Mae’s has been dubbed the best fried chicken in the world by the James Beard Foundation, the Food Network and other media, and in this case, the hype isn’t far off – this is superlative fried bird. The white beans are also amazing. The drawback is everyone knows about it, so expect long lines, sometimes around the block.
GabrielleCAJUN$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-603-2344; 2441 Orleans Ave; mains $16-32; h5:30-10pm Tue-Sat)
This old school, high-end Cajun spot has been refurbished into a lovely little blue-and-yellow cottage doling out sumptuous, rich plates of braised rabbit, slow-roasted duck and other favorites. The wine list is deep and, all in all, this is a perfect spot for a date.
Dooky ChaseCREOLE$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-821-0600; www.dookychaserestaurant.com; 2301 Orleans Ave; buffet $20, mains $20-25; h11am-3pm Tue-Thu, 11am-3pm & 5-9pm Fri)
Ray Charles wrote ‘Early in the Morning’ about Dooky’s; civil rights leaders used it as informal headquarters in the 1960s; and Barack Obama ate here after his inauguration. Leah Chase’s labor of love is the backbone of the Tremé and her buffets are the stuff of legend, a carnival of gumbo and fried chicken served in a white-linen dining room.
These days the food can be a little hit and…well, not miss, but not as much of a hit as it has been in the past. The vegetarian gumbo z’herbes, served on Thursday during Lent, is the great New Orleans dish done green with mustards, beet tops, spinach, kale, collards and Leah knows what else; committed carnivores should give it a try.
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
SECOND LINE!
Second Lines aren’t the alternate queue at the bank window, if you’re wondering. No, Second Line specifically refers to New Orleans neighborhood parades, especially those put on by the city’s African American Social Aid and Pleasure (S&P) Clubs. The S&P members deck themselves out in flash suits, hats and shoes, and carry decorated umbrellas and fans. This snazzy crowd, accompanied by a hired band, marches through the city pumping music and ‘steppin’ – engaging in a kind of syncopated marching dance that looks like a soldier in formation overcome by an uncontrollable need to get fun-kay.
This is the First Line and marching behind it is the Second Line: the crowds that gather to celebrate the music. Hundreds, sometimes thousands of people – the majority African American – dance in the Second Line, stopping for drinks and food all along the parade route. Many folks bring along coolers full of beer and soda, plus rolling grills, too.
So what are these S&P clubs? There are theories they have their roots in West African secret societies, cultural institutions that are a big part of the societies slaves were plucked from. While this theory has an appealing veneer of anthropological allure, the roots of Second Lines may be more based on economics. In the 19th and 20th centuries, S&P clubs functioned as insurance agencies for African Americans, as well as brokers who would help arrange the traditional (and expensive) New Orleans jazz funeral procession. The act of the parade, which the S&P helped fund, may have been eventually appended to these brokerage responsibilities.
While that role has faded, the S&P clubs remain important civic institutions. There are a few dozen in the city and traditionally Second Lines roll every weekend, except for summers, usually in the Tremé or Central City. They’re not the easiest thing to find, but keep abreast of 90.7 WWOZ’s Takin’ it To The Streets section (www.wwoz.org) or stop by the Backstreet Cultural Museum to ask – and be on the lookout for parades and music if you’re driving around on a Sunday.
Also note that folks here will throw a Second Line for just about any reason. There were huge parades thrown to honor Fats Domino, Prince and David Bowie when those artists died, or to protest about Donald Trump and the city’s Confederate monuments. Other Second Lines have celebrated marriages or anniversaries.
6Drinking & Nightlife
This is a land of neighborhood bars and live-music gigs held in packed taverns. You won’t find a ton of tourists out here and, while folks are friendly, there are some bars where you’ll get a little scrutiny if you’re not a regular.
Sidney’s SaloonBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-224-2672; www.sidneyssaloon.com; 1200 St Bernard Ave; h3pm-3am)
Friendly bartenders, strong drinks, pop-up restaurants slinging food on the nearby street and a raucous clientele make Sidney’s a winning stop any night of the week. Hosts trivia nights on Tuesdays, comedy on Thursdays and dance parties on the weekend.
3Entertainment
Broad TheaterCINEMA
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 636 N Broad St; h1pm-midnight Mon-Wed, from 11am Thu-Sun)
The Broad is a great movie theater, showcasing both Hollywood blockbusters and indie/art-house titles in the middle of the city. It’s extremely popular with locals, and during busy shows, the parking lot is almost always full to capacity, so you may want to seek out street parking. The on-site bar certainly helps with your cinematic relaxation.
BulletsLIVE MUSIC
(%504-948-4003; 2441 AP Tureaud Ave; cover $5; hbar 7am-2am, shows 6pm & 9pm)
Don’t be put off by the name; Bullets is just a sports bar. Well, sort of – this is New Orleans, so it’s a sports bar, but a sports bar where live music kicks off on a regular basis. The crowd is friendly, the beer is cold, the drinks are strong and the music is good – what more do you want?
Kermit’s Treme Mother in Law LoungeLOUNGE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-975-3955; www.kermitstrememotherinlawlounge.com; 1500 N Claiborne Ave; h10am-midnight)
Owned by iconic trumpeter Kermit Ruffins, this wonderfully odd bar is a Tremé standby and a popular spot for drinks during Second Lines. Or any time of day, really. Look for the big, bright building with lots of murals. Kermit himself is often dishing out free food at night.
This was formerly K-Doe’s Mother in Law Lounge, owned by the late, great Ernie K-Doe. Besides being famous for writing the song ‘Mother-in-Law,’ Ernie would frequently proclaim his ‘Emperorship of the Universe.’
Saenger TheatreTHEATER
(%504-525-1052; www.saengernola.com; 1111 Canal St)
The Saenger’s ornate 1927 facade was designed by noted New Orleans architect Emile Weil. It has been refurbished and renovated into one of the finest indoor venues in the city. Shows range from comedy slams to off-Broadway hits.
Mahalia Jackson TheaterTHEATER
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-287-0350; www.mahaliajacksontheater.com; 1419 Basin St)
Named for New Orleans’ own Queen of Gospel, the Mahalia Jackson is one of the city’s major main-stage venues. It often features performances ranging from ballet to stand-up comedy to classical music.
Candlelight LoungeLIVE MUSIC
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-525-4748; 925 N Robertson St; cover $10; h11am-late)
This classic Tremé dive is a hit-or-miss experience. Great bands play here – Corey Henry and the Treme Brass Band, to name a few – and on some nights the music infuses the place and everything is magic. On other nights the bands clearly phone it in and the whole experience is overpriced.
We’ve had good nights here, and it’s a popular spot on the Second Line routes, but fair warning, the Candlelight does not always shine.
7 Shopping
There isn’t much of a dedicated shopping scene in the Tremé besides the occasional arts market that gets attached to festivals held in Louis Armstrong Park.
oKitchen WitchBOOKS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-528-8382; http://kwcookbooks.com; 1452 N Broad St; h11am-5:30pm)
At a time when stores are becoming more and more homogeneous, Kitchen Witch is doing its own thing, selling antique and vintage cookbooks to a loving clientele who are dedicated to this niche of the written word. Some of these cookbooks are true works of art; others are fascinating collector’s items. All have a gastronomic story.
2 Sports & Activities
The Voodoo Bone LadyTOURS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-267-2040; http://voodooboneladytours.com; adult/child $25/15)
The eponymous Voodoo Bone Lady – or one of her staff – leads these spooky-by-design tours of local cemeteries, haunted sites and pirate hangouts. The tours are fun and engaging, if not exactly academic.
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
VOODOO QUEEN
Voodoo became wildly popular in New Orleans after it was introduced by black émigrés from St Domingue (now Haiti) at the beginning of the 19th century, but very little is known with certainty about the legendary 19th-century voodoo queen Marie Laveau, who gained fame and fortune by shrewdly exploiting voodoo’s mystique. Though details of her life are shrouded in myth and misconception, what has been passed down from generation to generation makes for a fascinating story.
She was born in 1794, a French-speaking Catholic of mixed black and white ancestry. Invariably described as beautiful and charismatic, at age 25 she married a man named Paris. He died a few years later and Marie became known as the Widow Paris. She had 15 children with another man, Glapion, who is believed to have migrated from St Domingue and may have been Laveau’s first connection to voodoo.
In the 1830s she established herself as the city’s preeminent voodoo queen and her influence crossed racial lines. Mostly she reeled in stray husbands and helped people avenge wrongs done to them. According to legend, she earned her house on St Anne St as payment for ensuring a young man’s acquittal in a rape or murder trial.
Marie apparently had some tricks up her sleeve. She is said to have worked as a hairdresser in the homes of upper-class white women, and it was not uncommon for these women to share local society gossip while having their hair done. In this way, Laveau gained a familiarity with the vagaries of the elite and she astutely perceived the value of such information. At the peak of her reign as voodoo queen, she employed an entire network of spies, most household servants in upper-class homes.
Reports on Laveau’s activities suggest there was more to her practice than nonpractitioners were permitted to witness – which makes these reports suspect. Part of the Laveau legend involves rituals she presided over in the countryside around New Orleans. According to sensational accounts, Laveau’s followers danced naked around bonfires, drinking blood and slithering on the ground like snakes before engaging in all-out orgies.
A brothel by Lake Pontchartrain called Maison Blanche was reputedly operated by Marie Laveau, but it is uncertain if this was the same Marie Laveau – there were two people known by the name, the second being the daughter of the original Marie Laveau. The elder Laveau died in 1881 and is believed to be buried in St Louis Cemetery No 1. The younger lived into the early 20th century.