East of Iquique
Ghost towns punctuate the desert as you travel inland from Iquique; they’re eerie remnants of once-flourishing mining colonies that gathered the Atacama’s white gold – nitrate. Along the way you’ll also pass pre-Hispanic geoglyphs, recalling the presence of humans centuries before. Further inland the barren landscape yields up several picturesque hot-spring villages, while the high altiplano is home to some knockout scenery and a unique pastoral culture.
There are various public-transportation companies linking Iquique with destinations here, including colectivos from Iquique to just outside Humberstone (CH$2800, 40 minutes); and buses from Iquique to La Tirana (CH$2500, 1½ hours), Mamiña (CH$3000, two hours) and Colchane (CH$4500, 3½ hours) – the latter for access to Parque Nacional Volcán Isluga.
Gigante de Atacama
It’s the biggest archaeological representation of a human in the world – a gargantuan 86m high – and yet little is really known about the Giant of the Atacama (Ruta 15). Reclining on the isolated west slope of Cerro Unita 14km east of Huara, the geoglyph is thought to represent a powerful shaman. Experts estimate that the giant dates from around AD 900. Don’t climb the slope, as it damages the site.
The Huara–Colchane road, the main Iquique–Bolivia route, is paved; only the very short stretch (about 1km) from the paved road to the hill itself crosses unpaved desert. The isolated site is 80km from Iquique; the best way to visit is to rent a car or taxi, or take a tour.
Humberstone & Santa Laura
The influence and wealth of the nitrate boom whisper through the deserted ghost town of Humberstone (www.museodelsalitre.cl; adult/child incl Oficina Santa Laura CH$4000/2000; 
h9am-7pm Dec-Mar, to 6pm Apr-Nov). Established in 1872 as La Palma, this mining town once fizzed with an energy, culture and ingenuity that peaked in the 1940s.
However, the development of synthetic nitrates forced the closure of the oficina by 1960; 3000 workers lost their jobs and the town dwindled to a forlorn shell of itself. The following all now lie quiet and emptied of life: the grand theater (rumored to be haunted, like a lot of the town’s other buildings) that once presented international starlets; the swimming pool made of cast iron scavenged from a shipwreck; the ballroom, where scores of young pampinos (those living or working in desert nitrate-mining towns) first caught the eye of their sweethearts; schools; tennis and basketball courts; a busy market; and a hotel frequented by industry big-shots.
Some buildings are restored, but others are crumbling; take care when exploring interiors. At the west end of town, the electrical power plant still stands, along with the remains of the narrow-gauge railway to the older Oficina Santa Laura. Although designated a historical monument in 1970, Humberstone fell prey to unauthorized salvage and vandalism However, the site’s fortunes were boosted in 2002, when it was acquired by a nonprofit association of pampinos (Corporación Museo del Salitre) that set about patching up the decrepit structures. At the entrance, pick up a useful map that indicates what the buildings were used for.
Admission also allows entry to nearby Oficina Santa Laura.
The skeletal remains of Oficina Santa Laura (adult/child incl Humberstone CH$4000/2000; h9am-7pm Dec-Mar, to 6pm Apr-Nov), 2km west of Humberstone, are a half-hour walk southwest of its abandoned neighbor. Less visited and more in ruin than Humberstone, Santa Laura is nevertheless worth a peak for its haunting small museum. There are also hunkering industry buildings with massive old machinery. Like in Humberstone, ghost stories abound; visitors have heard children crying and felt strange presences following them around.
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
MAMIñA
Upon arrival, Mamiña appears to be a dusty desert village surrounded by parched precordillera. However, the valley floor below is home to famously pungent hot springs, around which a small, sleepy resort has shaped itself. The baths, particularly popular with local miners, are the only reason to come here. You can easily do it on a day trip from Iquique.
The village huddles into upper and lower sectors, the former clustered around the rocky outcrop where the 1632 Iglesia de San Marcos stands, while the latter lies low in the valley, where the hot springs are. ‘Resort facilities’ include Barros Chinos (Cruce A-653; CH$3000; h9am-4pm), where mud treatments are available.
Mamiña is 73km east of Pozo Almonte. Buses and taxis colectivos from Iquique stop in the plaza opposite the church. To get here from Iquique, catch one of the Barreda buses (CH$3000, two hours), which has daily departures from its office on Barros Arana in Iquique.
Parque Nacional Volcán Isluga
If you want to get off the beaten track, this isolated national park richly rewards the effort. Dominated by the malevolently smoking Volcán Isluga, the park is dotted with tiny pastoral villages that house just a few hardy families or, at times, nobody at all. The park’s namesake village, Isluga, is itself uninhabited. It functions as a pueblo ritual (ceremonial village), where scattered migrational families converge for religious events that center on its picture-perfect 17th-century adobe church. Hot springs can be found 2km from the village of Enquelga.
Parque Nacional Volcán Isluga’s 1750 sq km contain similar flora and fauna to those of Parque Nacional Lauca, but it is far less visited. The park is 250km from Iquique and 13km west of Colchane, a small village on the Bolivian border.
4Sleeping
Hotel IslugaHOTEL$
(
%cell 9-8741-6260; Teniente González s/n, Colchane; s/d CH$25,000/36,000, without bathroom CH$16,000/35,000)
The nicest place to stay in the area, this little hotel has comfy rooms, although they tend to get cold at night. It also organizes tours to nearby attractions.
Hostal Camino del IncaHOTEL$
(%cell 9-8446-3586; hostal_caminodelinka@hotmail.com; Teniente González s/n, Colchane; r per person incl breakfast & dinner CH$14,000, without bathroom CH$11,000)
Run by a local family, it has two floors of sparse but clean rooms, with hot showers. It gets bitterly cold, so bring a sleeping bag, and a flashlight, because electricity is cut at 11pm.
8Getting There & Away
The road to Colchane is paved, but the park itself is crisscrossed by myriad dirt tracks. Several daily buses (fewer on Sundays) that depart Iquique, 251km away, pass Colchane (CH$4500, 3½ hours) on their way to Oruro (CH$7000, eight hours, plus more for border passing); try Luján, which has 1pm departures daily from Iquique.
At Colchane it’s also possible to cross the border and catch a truck or bus to the city of Oruro, in Bolivia.
La Tirana
Curly-horned devils prance, a sea of short skirts swirls, a galaxy of sequins twinkles and scores of drum-and-brass bands thump out rousing rhythms during La Tirana’s Virgin of Carmen festival. Chile’s most spectacular religious event, the fiesta takes place in mid-July. For 10 days as many as 230,000 pilgrims overrun the tiny village (permanent population 1300) to pay homage to the Virgin in a Carnaval-like atmosphere of costumed dancing.
The village, 72km from Iquique at the north end of the Salar de Pintados, is famed as the final resting place of a notorious Inka princess and is home to an important religious shrine. The Santuario de La Tirana consists of a broad ceremonial plaza graced by one of the country’s most unusual, even eccentric, churches.
La Tirana is about 78km east of Iquique. Several bus companies have daily connections between Iquique and La Tirana (CH$2500, 1½ hours), including Barreda and Santa Angela.
Pintados
Just off the Panamericana, about 45km south of Pozo Almonte, the brown hillsides of the Atacama have been transformed into a magnificent canvas of aboriginal art. There are some 420 geoglyphs decorating the hills like giant pre-Columbian doodles at Pintados (adult/child CH$4000/2000; h9:30am-5pm Tue-Sun), 45km south of Pozo Almonte. Geometrical designs include shapes, figures and animals. Most of the works date from between AD 500 and AD 1450.
Pintados lies 4.5km west of the Panamericana via a gravel road, nearly opposite the eastward turnoff to Pica. There’s no public transportation to the site, though agencies in Iquique run day trips.
Pisagua
%057 / POP 260
The ghosts of Pisagua’s past permeate every aspect of life in this isolated coastal village, 120km north of Iquique. Not much more than a ghost of its former self, when it was one of Chile’s largest 19th-century nitrate ports, today it is home to some 260 people who make their living harvesting huiro (algae) and mariscos (shellfish). A penal colony where Pinochet cut his teeth as an army captain, the town would acquire its true notoriety shortly afterward when it became a prison camp for Pinochet’s military dictatorship (1973–89). After the return to democracy, the discovery of numerous unmarked mass graves in the local cemetery caused an international scandal.
There is a spooky magic and lyricism to Pisagua, which feels like a forgotten seaside hamlet set beneath a near-vertical rock face.
1Sights
CemeteryCEMETERY
(hdaylight)
Pisagua’s most sobering site is its old cemetery 3km north of town, spread over a lonely hillside that slips suddenly into the ocean. Here, vultures guard over a gaping pit beneath the rock face, where a notorious mass grave of victims of the Pinochet dictatorship was discovered. A poignant memorial plaque quotes Neruda, ‘Although the tracks may touch this site for a thousand years, they will not cover the blood of those who fell here.’
Beyond the cemetery, the road continues for 3.5km to Pisagua Vieja, with a handful of adobe ruins, a pre-Columbian cemetery and a broad sandy beach.
Teatro MunicipalHISTORIC BUILDING
(Esmeralda)
A once-lavish, now crumbling theater with a broad stage, opera-style boxes and peeling murals of cherubim on the ceiling. Ask for the key at the library (h9am-3pm & 4-6pm Mon-Fri; 
W) next door.
4Sleeping & Eating
Hostal La RocaHOTEL$
(%57-273-1502; h.larocapisagua@gmail.com; Manuel Rodríguez 20; s/d CH$14,000/28,000; 
p)
This quirky little place is perched on a rocky rise overlooking the Pacific and run by a friendly local couple. It offers four charming rooms, two with ocean views. You can also arrange surfing and diving trips here.
Señora JacquelineCHILEAN$
(Patricio Lynch; mains around CH$3000; hnoon-11pm)
You’ll have to poke around to find this unsigned, informal place set in one enterprising local’s home. Señora Jacqueline cooks up whole fish and whatever else is freshly available for the day. Find her house on a hilly rise above the waterfront at the eastern edge of the village.
8Getting There & Away
As the crow flies, Pisagua lies about 60km north of Iquique, but by road is double that. It’s reached from a turnoff 85km south of the police checkpoint at Cuya, and 47km north of Huara. Leaving the Panamericana, travel 40km west until you hit the coast.
One micro (small bus) a day (except Sundays) leaves Iquique’s terminal at 5pm (CH$2000, two hours). It returns from Pisagua at 7am.
Arica
%058 / POP 221,000
The pace of Arica is simply delightful. It’s warm and sunny year-round, there’s a cool pedestrian mall to wander around come sunset, and decent brown-sugar beaches are just a short walk from the town center. Top this off with some kick-ass surf breaks and a cool cliff-top War of the Pacific battlefield at El Morro, and you may just stay another day or two before you head up to nearby Parque Nacional Lauca or take an afternoon off from ‘beach duty’ to visit the Azapa Valley, home to some of the world’s oldest-known mummies.
History
Pre-Hispanic peoples have roamed this area for millennia. Arica itself was the terminus of an important trade route where coastal peoples exchanged fish, cotton and maize for the potatoes, wool and charqui (jerky) from the people of the precordillera and altiplano.
With the arrival of the Spanish in the early 16th century, Arica became the port for the bonanza silver mine at Potosí, in present-day Bolivia. As part of independent Peru, the city’s 19th-century development lagged behind the frenzied activity in the nitrate mines further south. Following the dramatic battle over Arica’s towering El Morro in the War of the Pacific, the city became de facto Chilean territory, an arrangement formalized in 1929.
Arica
1Top Sights
1Sights
2Activities, Courses & Tours
4Sleeping
5Eating
6Drinking & Nightlife
7Shopping
1Sights
oMuseo de Sitio Colón 10MUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Colón 10; adult/child CH$2000/1000; h10am-7pm Tue-Sun Jan-Feb, to 6pm Tue-Sun Mar-Dec)
See the 32 excavated Chinchorro mummies in situ at this tiny museum below El Morro. They were discovered when an architect bought this former private home with the intention of converting it into a hotel. You can gape at the glass-protected bodies as they were found, in the sand below the floors, in different positions, complete with their funerary bundles, skins and feathers of marine fowl.
There are a few infants, with red-painted mud masks. Go up the wooden ramp for a better vantage point of the mummies and then check out the great view of the city from the covered terrace. The included audio guide (available in English and other languages) gives a fine context to the site.
Ferrocarril Arica-PoconchileTRAIN
(http://trenturistico.fcalp.cl; Av Brasil 117; adult/child return CH$9000/4000; hticket office 9am-2pm & 3-6:30pm Mon-Fri)
One part of the old rail line that linked Arica with La Paz, Bolivia, has been restored, allowing you to ride a tourist train that runs once a week between Arica and the Lluta Valley town of Poconchile, some 37km to the northeast. The 1950s vintage train cars currently depart Saturdays at 10:30am and arrive back in Arica at 3:30pm, after a one-hour stop in Poconchile.
The train departs from the station in Chinchorro, about 3km northeast of the center. Call ahead or confirm with the tourist office that the train is running. Outside high season (December to mid March) it tends to run only twice a month.
Cuevas de AnzotaNATURAL FEATURE
(Av Comandante San Martín)
About 10km south of the center, the serene beaches give way to an area of jagged cliffs, rocky shorelines and caves that were used by the Chinchorro culture some 9000 years ago. A new coastal walk takes you through the area, with staircases leading up to lookout points, and fine vantage points over the dramatic coastline. Keep an eye out for sea lions, chungungo (a marine otter) and a host of marine birds.
There’s no public transportation down this way. Take a taxi.
El Morro de AricaVIEWPOINT
This imposing coffee-colored shoulder of rock looms 110m over the city. It makes a great place to get your bearings, with vulture-eye views of the city, port and Pacific Ocean. This lofty headland was the site of a crucial battle in 1880, a year into the War of the Pacific, when the Chilean army assaulted and took El Morro from Peruvian forces in less than an hour.
The hilltop is accessible by car or taxi (CH$4000 round-trip with a 30-minute wait), or by a steep footpath from the south end of Calle Colón. The story of El Morro is told step by step in the flag-waving Museo Histórico y de Armas, which has information in Spanish and English.
Catedral de San MarcosCHURCH
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; San Marcos 260, Plaza Colón; h8:30am-9pm Mon-Fri, 11am-1pm Sat, 9am-1pm & 7:30-9pm Sun)
This Gothic-style church has a threefold claim to fame. First, it was designed by celebrated Parisian engineer Alexandre Gustave Eiffel, before his success with the Eiffel Tower. Second, it was prefabricated in Eiffel’s Paris shop in the 1870s (at the order of the Peruvian president) then shipped right around the world to be assembled on-site. Still more curious is the construction itself: the entire church is made of stamped and molded cast iron, coated with paint.
Ex-Aduana de AricaNOTABLE BUILDING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Casa de Cultura; %58-220-9501; Prat s/n) 
F
Eiffel designed this former customs house. Prefabricated in Paris, it was assembled on-site in 1874, with walls made of blocks and bricks stacked between metallic supports. As the city’s cultural center, it hosts a smattering of exhibitions and has an impressive 32-step wrought-iron spiral staircase. At the time of writing it was closed for long-term restoration.
Museo Histórico y de ArmasMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; adult/child CH$1000/500; h8am-6pm Tue-Fri, to 8pm Sat & Sun)
Atop Morro de Arica, this museum recounts a key battle that took place on this hillside in 1880 during the War of the Pacific. There’a a collection of 19th- and early 20th-century weaponry.
2Activities
Beaches
Surfers, swimmers and sunbathers can all find their niche along Arica’s plentiful beaches. The Pacific is warm enough to bathe comfortably here, although there are strong ocean currents that make some beaches more dangerous for swimming than others. The mirrorlike waters of sheltered Playa La Lisera are the safest place to take young children swimming.
The most frequented beaches are south of town, along Av Comandante San Martín, where there are several sheltered coves and seaside restaurants. The closest is Playa El Laucho, a 20-minute walk away, just past the Club de Yates, followed by decidedly prettier Playa La Lisera, 2km south of downtown, with changing rooms and showers. Both have only gentle surf and are worthy spots for swimming and lounging alike. Nearby, rougher Playa Brava is suitable for sunbathing only.
About 9km south of town, past a pungent fish-meal processing plant, is Playa Corazones, with wild camping and a kiosk. Just past the beach a trail leads to caves, cormorant colonies, tunnels and a sea-lion colony. Hire a cab or bike it here.
Beaches are also strung along the Panamericana Norte for 19km to the Peruvian border; these beaches are longer and rougher, but cleaner. The enormous Playa Chinchorro, 2km north of downtown, is a veritable play land: a long, wide beach strung with overpriced restaurants, ice-cream shops and, in holiday season, Jet Ski rentals. The sea is a bit on the rough side but fine for experienced swimmers. The water here turns somewhat silty in February.
Playa Las Machas, a few kilometers north, is a surfers’ haunt. Take bus 12 or 14 from 18 de Septiembre; get off on the corner of Av Antarctica and Av España.
Surfing
The secret’s out: Arica’s reputation for terrific tubes has spread worldwide. It now hosts high-profile championships and tempts surfing film crews to the area. July sees the biggest breaks. As well as Playa Las Machas, expert surfers also hit the towering waves of El Gringo and El Buey at Isla de Alacrán, an expert point break south of Club de Yates. Hire boards or take surf lessons from Arica Surfhouse.
MayuruOUTDOORS
(%9-8582-1493; www.mayurutour.com; Baquedano 411, Putre)
Mayuru has a strong reputation for its high-quality tours around the region. If time allows, skip the one-day blitz to Lauca, and do one of Mayuru’s multiday trips, taking in the natural wonders of the altiplano.
The office is in Putre, so call or email before you arrive.
MiramarBOATING
(MAP; Muelle Pesquero; adult/child CH$3000/1000; h10am-6pm)
On the fishing jetty, this is one of several outfits that runs 40-minute cruises around the bay. You’re sure to see pelicans, sea lions and perhaps even a penguin. Boats depart whenever there are enough passengers. Go before lunchtime on a weekend for the least amount of waiting-around time.
Orange TravelOUTDOORS
(MAP; %9-8869-3991; www.orangetravel.cl; Paseo Bolgnesi 421; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat)
Offers a full range of tours, including full-day trips to Parque Nacional Lauca (CH$30,000) and half-day excursions taking in the area’s archaeological wonders (CH$15,000). Also has bikes available for hire.
CCourses & Tours
North Light Academia de IdiomasLANGUAGE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %9-8360-0049; www.facebook.com/academiadeidiomasarica; 21 de Mayo 483, 3rd fl; h4-6:30pm Mon-Fri)
Offers Spanish courses (CH$60,000 for 12 90-minute classes including enrollment fee).
Raíces AndinasECOTOUR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %9-8680-9445; www.ecotourexpediciones.cl; Héroes del Morro 632; h9am-noon & 3-6pm Mon-Sat)
A well-run outfit recommended for encouraging better understanding of the local people. It specializes in trips of two or more days, and offers expeditions to Sajama in Bolivia via Lauca as well as adventures into Salar de Uyuni.
Suma IntiTOURS
(%58-222-5685; www.sumainti.cl; Poblacion Juan Noé, Pasaje 11, No 1128; h9am-1pm & 3-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat)
A little Aymara-run outfit which focuses on ancestral traditions; tours often feature rituals involving coca leaves and chants. Can also arrange longer treks and climbing expeditions.
zFestivals & Events
Carnaval Andino con La Fuerza del SolCARNIVAL
(hlate Jan-early Feb)
This festival, with blaring brass bands and dancing by traditional comparsas (traditional dancing groups), draws around 15,000 spectators during a three-day weekend. It mostly happens on Av Comandante San Martín near El Morro.
Semana AriqueñaFESTIVAL
(hearly Jun)
Arica week features parades, concerts and fireworks.
4Sleeping
Sunny DaysGUESTHOUSE$
(%58-224-1038; http://sunny-days-arica.cl; Tomas Aravena 161; s/d CH$20,000/30,000, dm/s/d without bathroom CH$11,000/15,000/26,000; p
iW)
If you don’t mind being outside the center, this welcoming, easygoing guesthouse near Playa de Chinchorro is an appealing option. Pleasant rooms, friendly English-speaking staff, a spacious lounge area, and access to kitchens, laundry and bike hire (CH$8000 per day) draw a wide mix of travelers.
It’s about 2km northeast of the center. Catch a colectivo (CH$700) or micro (CH$500) along Av Santa Maria.
Arica SurfhouseHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %58-231-2213; www.aricasurfhouse.cl; O’Higgins 664; dm CH$12,000, s/d CH$25,000/36,000, without bathroom CH$20,000/30,000; iW)
Doubling as Arica’s surfer central, this is one of Arica’s top hostels, with a variety of clean rooms, a great open-air communal area, 24-hour hot water and laundry service. There’s a shuttle service to the beaches in winter and staff will hook you up with surf classes and equipment rental.
You can also hire bikes, book tours (national-park excursions) and go parasailing or scuba diving.
Hostal Jardín del SolHOTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %58-223-2795; www.hostaljardindelsol.cl; Sotomayor 848; s/d CH$23,000/$37,000; W)
It’s been here for ages but still lives up to its reputation as one of Arica’s best budget hotels, with small but spotless rooms, fans included. Guests mingle on the leafy patio, in the shared kitchen and the lounge room. There’s a book exchange and lots of tourist info.
Hostal Huanta-JayaHOTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %58-231-4605; hostal.huanta.jaya@gmail.com; 21 de Mayo 660; s/d from CH$20,000/30,000; W)
The pleasant, clean and spacious (if a bit dark) rooms are reached via a long hallway lined with African-themed artwork. The cheapest rooms lack exterior windows and there isn’t much of a traveler vibe.
Hotel Mar AzulHOTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %58-225-6272; www.facebook.com/marazularica; Colón 665; s/d CH$20,000/30,000; W
s)
The flag-fronted Mar Azul at the heart of town has an all-white interior, a little outdoor pool and cable TV.
Petit ClosGUESTHOUSE$$
(MAP; %58-232-3746; www.lepetitclos.cl; Colón 7; d CH$32,000-36,000)
Near the steps leading up to Morro de Arica, this Belgian-run guesthouse makes a great base for exploring the city. The rooms are pleasantly furnished, there’s a terrace with lovely views (where breakfast is served) and tea and coffee are always available.
It’s a steep uphill climb from the center.
Casa BeltránHOTEL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %58-225-3839; www.hotelcasabeltran.cl; Sotomayor 266; r CH$52,000-62,000; p
aiW)
This sleek city-center charmer inside an old casona has 17 well-designed rooms with dark hardwood floors and all the upscale trimmings (desk, minifridge, spotless modern bathrooms). Some rooms have balconies. The upscale restaurant (closed Sundays) serves almuerzos (set lunches) and afternoon tea overlooking a leafy patio.
Hotel SotomayorHOTEL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %58-258-5761; www.hotelsotomayor.cl; Sotomayor 367; s/d CH$35,000/45,000; pW)
Slightly frayed around the edges, this four-story number just uphill from the plaza wins points for its cheerfully painted facade, spacious rooms and quiet location, set back from the street beside a small plaza.
Hotel Gavina ExpressBUSINESS HOTEL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %58-258-3000; www.gavinaexpress.cl; 21 de Mayo 425; s CH$51,000-61,000, d CH$59,000-69,000, ste CH$80,000; aW)
Right in the middle of the pedestrian strip, this business-class hotel offers all the expected comforts, including king-size beds, spacious rooms and spotless modern bathrooms.
Hotel SavonaHOTEL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %58-223-1000; www.hotelsavona.cl; Yungay 380; s/d CH$39,000/54,000; piWs)
This snowy-white hotel at the foot of El Morro has a concertina-style front and an attractive inner patio with bougainvillea blooms and a pill-shaped pool. The classic-style rooms are a bit clunky but well equipped. There are free bikes for use.
oHotel ArumaBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %58-225-0000; www.aruma.cl; Lynch 530; s/d standard CH$80,000/90,000, superior CH$110,000/120,000; aWs)
Arica’s best-looking hotel is a mixture of cool ambience, modern styling and friendly service. The spacious rooms have a contemporary, relaxed feel and the rooftop snack bar, lounge areas and dip pool further add to the appeal.
Look online for good deals (standard/superior rooms from CH$67,000/80,000).
Hotel AricaHOTEL$$$
(%58-225-4540; www.panamericanahoteles.cl; Av Comandante San Martín 599; r CH$75,000-120,000, cabin for 2 CH$110,000-140,000; paiWs)
This large-scale oceanfront resort offers a range of rooms, including cabins overlooking the ocean, plus all four-star trappings. It’s about 3km southwest of the center by Playa El Laucho. Request a room with an ocean view and check for web-only specials.
5Eating
Mata-RangiSEAFOOD$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Muelle Pesquero; mains CH$5000-7000; h12:30-4pm Thu-Tue)
Superb seafood is served at this adorable spot hanging over the harbor by the fishing jetty. A wooden shack-style place packed with wind chimes, it has a breezy dining room and a small terrace above the ocean. Get here early to grab a seat or be prepared to wait.
Salon de Te 890PIZZA$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 21 de Mayo 890; pizzas CH$3800-6000; h5pm-midnight Mon-Sat; W)
Come to this cheerful teahouse for pizzas, sandwiches and heavenly sweet cakes served in a pair of pastel-colored rooms with old-timey decoration. Don’t miss the signature Siete Sabores cake.
Govinda’sVEGETARIAN$
(MAP; www.facebook.com/viejaescuelabararica; Sotomayor 251; mains CH$3000-4000; h9am-4pm Mon-Fri, 1-4pm Sat)
Take a break from meat and fish at this welcoming vegetarian eatery around the corner from the cathedral. The menu changes daily and might feature the likes of lentil soup, quinoa risotto, spinach ravioli, quiche or fajitas. Sandwiches, juices and breakfast fare (weekdays) round out the menu.
Boulevard Vereda BolognesiINTERNATIONAL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Bolognesi 340; mains CH$4000-9000; h10am-11pm Mon-Sat)
Hip little shopping mall with a clutch of cool cafes, restaurants and bars. Choose between a Peruvian joint, an Italian restaurant or a sushi bar, and eat on the central patio. In the evening it’s a popular local gathering spot for drinks.
Cafe del MarCAFETERIA$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 21 de Mayo 260; mains CH$4200-6000; h9am-11pm Mon-Sat; W)
On the lively pedestrian lane, the ever-popular Cafe del Mar has a big menu of salads, crepes, burgers and sandwiches, plus first-rate coffee. Grab a table out front for prime people-watching.
Mercado CentralMARKET$
(Sotomayor; mains CH$3500-6000; h8am-6pm Mon-Fri)
Very much a local’s market, specializing in fresh produce, cheap clothing, food stalls and plenty of Bolivian imports.
oLos Aleros de 21CHILEAN$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %58-225-4641; 21 de Mayo 736; mains CH$9500-13,500; hnoon-3:30pm & 8-11:30pm Mon-Sat; W)
One of Arica’s best restaurants serves up excellent grilled meat and seafood dishes amid wood paneling and an old-fashioned ambience. Service is generally quite good, and there’s a decent wine list too.
LucanoITALIAN$$
(MAP; %58-247-5233; www.pizzerialucano.cl; Esmeralda 210; pizzas CH$6000-12,000; h6pm-midnight Mon-Fri, from 1pm Sat & Sun; W
v)
A bit outside the center, open-sided Lucano has an easygoing charm with checkered tablecloths, outdoor tables and a soundtrack of American soul, funk and vintage jazz. The pizzas are good and pair nicely with Guayacan Pale Ale and other Chilean brews.
Lucano also delivers.
MaracuyáSEAFOOD$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %58-222-7600; Av Comandante San Martín 0321; mains CH$8700-13,500; h12:30-3:30pm & 8:30pm-midnight Mon-Sat; W)
Treat yourself to a superb seafood meal complete with snappily attired servers and sea views at this villa-style restaurant next to Playa El Laucho. Reservations recommended.
MousseITALIAN$$
(MAP; www.facebook.com/moussebarrestaurant; 7 de Junio 174; mains CH$7000-9000; h9am-2am Mon-Sat, 5pm-2am Sun; Wv)
One of several appealing indoor-outdoor eateries facing Plaza Colón, Mousse serves a great variety of pastas and pizzas, plus breakfast fare, tostadas (grilled sandwiches) and other snacks. Lunch specials (like vegetarian lasagna) are good value at CH$4500.
RayúFUSION$$$
(%58-221-6446; Raúl Pey Casado 2590; mains CH$8500-15,000; h1pm-2am Mon-Sat; v)
Across the street from Playa Chinchorro, Rayú has earned a strong following for its creative menu that fuses Italian and Peruvian dishes. The upscale, open-air space makes a fine setting to linger over mouthwatering ceviche or tender octopus followed by heartier plates of lamb lasagna, goat’s-cheese ravioli and grilled fish served with abalone risotto.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Baristta CoffeeCAFE
(MAP; 18 de Sepiembre 295, 2nd fl; h8:15am-11pm Mon-Fri, 4-11pm Sat; W)
Arica’s best coffee is poured at this hip upstairs cafe with a spacious outdoor patio made of reclaimed wood. You choose the preparation style – V60, Chemex, Syphon or Aeropress – or straight-up espresso. There are also lunch specials (CH$4000), croissant sandwiches and breakfast fare.
Lounge by RayúBAR
(Raúl Pey Casado 2590; h9pm-4am Tue-Sat)
The beautiful people flocks to this upscale lounge with its open-air patio out in Playa Chinchorro. Come for cocktails, sushi and electronic grooves by rotating DJs.
Mosto VinotecaWINE BAR
(MAP; www.facebook.com/mostovinotecacl; 7 de Junio 196; h7pm-2am Mon-Fri, noon-2am Sat & Sun)
For a fine vantage point of the cathedral, grab an outdoor table at this new wine bar on the plaza. Aside from a good selection of Chilean reds, Mosto offers craft beers, cheese and charcuterie plates, and sandwiches. On weekends there’s usually a DJ or a jazz trio on hand.
Así Sea ClubBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; San Marcos 251; hnoon-5pm & 6pm-midnight Mon-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat)
This swank hideaway inside a rambling historic town house has a set of sleek rooms featuring original detail, and a back patio. It serves a menu of tablas (shared plates, CH$5000 to CH$20,000), cocktails and all-Chilean wines, paired with loungey tunes.
Old SchoolBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Vieja Escuela; www.facebook.com/viejaescuelabararica; Colón 342; h8pm-2am Tue-Sat)
A mainstay of the nightlife scene, Old School is a cavernous place with live music on weekends and DJs on some weeknights. There’s also the occasional screening of Chilean football matches.
SohoCLUB
(www.facebook.com/discosoho; Buenos Aires 209; cover CH$4000-8000; h11pm-5am Thu-Sat)
The city’s most happening disco; gets a variety of DJs as well as live salsa and rock bands. It’s about 3km north of the center, near Playa Chinchorro.
Vieja HabanaBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.facebook.com/vieja.habana.salsoteca; 21 de Mayo 487; hmidnight-4.30am Fri & Sat)
Has salsa and bachata classes (from CH$3000) Monday to Thursday from 8pm to 11:30pm, and functions as a lively salsoteca (salsa club) on weekends.
WORTH A TRIP
ADVENTURE IN THE ANDEAN FOOTHILLS
There’s a new frontier for adventurous travelers who want to get off the beaten path near Arica: a string of isolated villages that necklaces the Andean foothills. A series of rough gravel roads connects these pretty traditional hamlets in the precordillera, including Belén, Saxamar, Tignamar and Codpa. Highlights include colonial churches, ancient agricultural terraces and pukarás (pre-Hispanic fortifications). There’s been a recent effort to develop heritage tourism in this Andean region; the project is being promoted as the ‘mission route.’ This has been headed up by Fundación Altiplano, a foundation that is trying to promote sustainable development of these nearly forgotten Andean communities.
The fertile oasis of the Codpa Valley is home to the area’s best place to overnight, Codpa Valley Lodge (%cell 9-8449-1092; http://terraluna.cl/en/codpa-valley-lodge; Ruta A-35; d/tr CH$75,000/85,000; s). This solar-energy-powered hideaway (there’s electricity for only two hours nightly) has cozy rustic rooms with private patios set around a swimming pool, and a good restaurant. Bring plenty of pesos; it’s cash only. Lodge tours include a scenic two-day overland to Putre through the precordillera.
La Paloma in Arica has departures for Belen and Codpa several times per week. It’s not possible, however, to make a loop through all the villages on public transportation.
For travelers with vehicles (a 4WD is highly recommended, if not imperative), this spectacular route is a great way to get from Codpa to Putre, or vice versa. Make sure you get a good road map and don’t attempt this journey during rainy season (December to March), since rivers run amok due to heavy rains and often wash the roads away.
7Shopping
Frutos RojosFOOD & DRINKS
(MAP; 18 de Sepiembre 330; h10am-10pm Mon-Sat)
This atmospheric little shop sells nuts and dried fruits, juices, coca leaves, yerba maté, teas and almond-stuffed nuts and olive oil from the Azapa Valley. It’s a great place to sample the produce from the region. And those dried, intestine-looking stacks by the door? That’s actually cochayuyo – a species of kelp prevalent in Chile that’s packed with nutrients.
Poblado ArtesanalMARKET
(Hualles 2825; h10:30am-1:30pm & 3:30-7pm Tue-Sun)
On the outskirts of Arica, near the Panamericana Sur, is this full-on shopping experience: a mock altiplano village filled with serious craft shops and studios, selling everything from ceramic originals to finely tuned musical instruments. The village even has its own church, a replica of the one in Parinacota, complete with copies of its fascinating murals.
Taxis colectivos 7 and 8 pass near the entrance, as do buses 7, 8 and 9.
8Information
While Arica is a very safe city, it has a reputation for pickpockets. Be especially cautious at bus terminals and beaches.
There are numerous 24-hour ATMs as well as casas de cambio (which change US dollars, Peruvian, Bolivian and Argentine currency, and euros) along the pedestrian mall (21 de Mayo).
Conaf (%58-220-1201; aricayparinacota.oirs@conaf.cl; Av Vicuña Mackenna 820; h8:30am-5:30pm Mon-Thu, to 4pm Fri) Carries useful information about Región I (Tarapacá) national parks. To get there, take micro 9 or colectivo 7, 2 or 23 from downtown (CH$600).
Fundación Altiplano (%58-225-3616; www.fundacionaltiplano.cl; Andres Bello 1515)
Sernatur (%58-225-2054; infoarica@sernatur.cl; San Marcos 101; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat) Helpful office with info on Arica and the surrounding region.
Post office (Prat 305; h9am-3:30pm Mon-Fri) On a walkway between Pedro Montt and Prat.
Hospital Dr Juan Noé (%58-220-4592; 18 de Sepiembre 1000) A short distance east of downtown.
8Getting There & Away
From Arica, travelers can head north across the Peruvian border to Tacna and Lima, south toward Santiago or east to Bolivia.
AIR
Aeropuerto Internacional Chacalluta (%58-221-3416; www.chacalluta.cl; Av John Wall) is 18km north of Arica, near the Peruvian border. Shared taxis charge CH$4000 to the airport. In town, Arica Service (%58-231-4031) runs airport shuttles (CH$4000 per person). For a private taxi, call Lynn Tour (%cell 9-5885-8543; www.lynntourarica.cl), which charges to CH$10,000 to CH$14,000, or Taxi Turismo Frontera (%cell 9-4409-2433).
Santiago-bound passengers should sit on the left side of the plane to get awesome views of the Andes and the interminable brownness of the Atacama Desert.
LATAM (%600-526-2000; www.latam.com; Arturo Prat 391) has direct daily flights to Santiago (from CH$105,000, 2½ hours).
Sky (%600-600-2828; www.skyairline.cl) has direct daily flights to Santiago (from CH$105,000, 2½ hours).
Amaszonas (www.amaszonas.com) flies daily to Iquique (from CH$30,000, 40 minutes).
BUS
Arica has two main bus terminals. The somewhat-polished indoor Terminal Rodoviario de Arica (Terminal de Buses; %58-222-5202; Diego Portales 948) houses most companies traveling south to destinations in Chile. Next door, the open-air Terminal Internacional de Buses (%58-224-8709; Diego Portales 1002) handles international and some regional destinations. The area is notorious for petty thievery – keep an eye on your luggage at all times. To reach the bus terminals, take colectivo 8 from Maipú or San Marcos; a taxi costs around CH$3000.
More than a dozen companies have offices in Terminal Rodoviario de Arica, and ply destinations toward the south, from Iquique to Santiago.
A schedule board inside the terminal helps you find your bus (but it’s not always accurate). Buses run less often on Sundays.
Some of the standard destinations and fares are shown here.
| DESTINATION | COST (CH$) | HOURS |
|---|---|---|
| Antofagasta | 18,000 | 10 |
| Calama | 15,000 | 10 |
| Copiapó | 24,000 | 18 |
| Iquique | 7000 | 5 |
| La Paz, Bolivia | 9000 | 9 |
| La Serena | 25,000 | 23 |
| Santiago | 30,000 | 27 |
Tur Bus (%58-222-5202; www.turbus.cl; Diego Portales 948) goes twice a day to San Pedro de Atacama (from CH$15,000), currently departing at 9pm and 10pm.
Bus Lluta (cnr Chacabuco & Av Vicuña Mackenna) goes to Poconchile and Lluta four to five times daily (CH$2500, one hour).
Buses La Paloma (%58-222-2710; Diego Portales 948) travels once daily at 7am to Putre (CH$4500), from the main terminal; it returns from Putre at 2pm. La Paloma also goes to Belén, Socoroma and Codpa several times a week. Transportes Gutierréz (%58-222-9338; Esteban Ríos 2140) also goes to Putre (CH$4500) at 6:45am on Monday, Wednesday and Friday (and Sunday at 8am).
For Parinacota (CH$7000) and Parque Nacional Lauca, look for Trans Cali Internacional (%58-226-1068; Oficina 15) in the international terminal. Trips depart daily at 8:30am.
To get to Tacna, Peru, buses leave the international terminal every half hour (CH$2000); colectivos charge CH$4000. No produce is allowed across the border.
To get to La Paz, Bolivia (from CH$9000, nine hours), the comfiest and fastest service is with Chile Bus (%58-226-0505; Diego Portales 1002), but cheaper buses are available with Trans Cali Internacional and Trans Salvador (%58-224-6064; Diego Portales 1002) in the international bus terminal. Buses on this route will drop passengers in Parque Nacional Lauca, but expect to pay full fare to La Paz.
Buses Géminis (%58-235-1465; www.geminis.cl; Diego Portales 948), in the main terminal, goes to Salta and Jujuy in Argentina (CH$38,000, 21 hours), via Calama and San Pedro de Atacama, on Monday, Thursday and Saturday at 9pm.
TRAIN
Trains to Tacna (CH$3200, 1½ hours) depart near the port from Estación Ferrocarril Arica-Tacna (%cell 9-7633-2896; Av Máximo Lira, opposite Chacabuco) at 10am and 8:30pm daily.
Remember to set your clock forward: there’s a two-hour time difference in Peru.
8Getting Around
Micros (local buses) and colectivos connect downtown with the main bus terminal. Taxis colectivos are faster and more frequent, costing CH$700 per person. Destinations are clearly marked on an illuminated sign atop the cab. Micros run to major destinations and cost CH$500 per person. Radio Taxi service is between CH$2000 and CH$3000, depending on your destination.
Rental cars are available, from around CH$25,000 per day.
Europcar (%58-257-8500; www.europcar.com; Chacabuco 602; h8:30am-1pm & 2:30-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-11:30pm) At the airport.
Hertz (%58-223-1487; Baquedano 999; h8:30am-7:30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat)
You can rent mountain bikes from several tour agencies and hostels in town for around CH$8000 for the day (CH$2000 per hour).
Around Arica
Azapa Valley
Located 12km east of Arica, Museo Arqueológico San Miguel de Azapa (%58-220-5551; Camino Azapa, Km12; adult/child CH$2000/1000; h9am-8pm Jan & Feb, 10am-6pm Mar-Dec) is home to some of the world’s oldest-known mummies. There are superb local archaeological and cultural-heritage displays and a handy audio guide in English. Colectivos (CH$1200) at the corner of Chacabuco and Patricio Lynch provide transportation.
Set in a lush garden dotted with tall palm trees, the museum has two sections. The original exhibition hall displays a large assemblage of exhibits from 7000 BC right up to the Spanish invasion, from dioramas, baskets and masks to pottery, pan flutes and an enormous 18th-century olive press. Well-written booklets in several languages are available to carry around this section. Past the outdoor ‘petroglyph park’ is the new hall in a modern concrete building backed by mountains and olive groves. Inside is a swank permanent exhibit dedicated to Chinchorro mummies, with display cases featuring tools, clothing and adornments used in the process, as well as infant mummies, a few skulls and life-size figures of Chinchorro peoples.
8Getting There & Away
From Parque General Carlos Ibáñez del Campo in Arica, at the corner of Chacabuco and Patricio Lynch, yellow colectivos charge CH$1200 (one way) to the front gate of the Museo Arqueológico San Miguel de Azapa.
If you have your own wheels, you can take the scenic (but narrow) A-143 north to Poconchile, then continue either east to Putre or west back to Arica.
Route 11
About 10km north of Arica, the Panamericana intersects paved Chile 11, which ushers traffic east up the valley of the Río Lluta to Poconchile and on to Putre and Parque Nacional Lauca. The road features a clutch of worthy stops, if you want to break up the journey. Note that this heavily trafficked winding route toward La Paz, Bolivia, gets about 500 trucks per day.
Beyond Copaquilla, paved Chile 11 climbs steadily through the precordillera toward the altiplano proper. If you’re driving, the Aymara farming village of Socoroma on the colonial pack route between Arica and Potosí is worth a quick detour. To see its cobbled streets, a 17th-century church that’s currently being restored, bits of colonial remains and terraced hills of oregano, take the serpentine road that descends from Chile 11 for 4.5km.
1Sights
Lluta GeoglyphsROCK ART
A short distance inland from the intersection of the Panamericana and Chile 11, you’ll see the pre-Columbian Lluta geoglyphs, also known as the Gigantes de Lluta. These are sprinkled along an otherwise-barren slope of the southern Lluta Valley; markers indicate when to pull over and squint toward the hillsides. The diverse figures include a frog, an eagle, llamas and the occasional human. These delightful geoglyphs recall the importance of pre-Columbian pack trains on the route to Tiwanaku.
SocoromaVILLAGE
(off Ruta 11)
An old Aymara village with a famous church dating from the 16th century.
Pukará de CopaquillaFORT
(hdaylight) F
Teetering on the brink of a spectacular chasm 1.5km beyond the posada (inn) is this 12th-century fortress built to protect pre-Columbian farmlands below and once home to 500 people. Peering over the canyon’s edge will reward with views of abandoned terraces and forbidding mountains all around. There’s a great echo too. At around 10am, you can sometimes see condors flying above the fortress.
4Sleeping
Eco TrulyCAMPGROUND, HOTEL$
(%cell 9-9776-3796; http://vrindaarica.cl/eco-truly-arica; Sector Linderos, Km29; campsites/cabins per person CH$4000/8000, r incl breakfast CH$8000)
In the village of Poconchile, along a road that runs for 1km along train tracks from the marked turnoff of Chile 11, is a slightly surreal Hare Krishna ‘ecotown’ and yoga school called Eco Truly. It’s a nice spot to stop for lunch (vegetarian, CH$4000) on your way to Parinacota, or stay for a few days of simplified relaxation.
TEN STEPS TO A CHINCHORRO MUMMY
The Chinchorro mummies are the oldest-known artificially preserved bodies in the world, predating their Egyptian counterparts by more than two millennia. They were created by small groups that fished and hunted along the coast of southern Peru and northern Chile from around 7000 BC. The mummification process was remarkably elaborate for such a simple culture. While the order and methods evolved over the millennia, the earliest mummies were made more or less by doing the following.
A Dismembering the corpse’s head, limbs and skin.
A Removing the brain by splitting the skull or drawing it through the base.
A Taking out other internal organs.
A Drying the body with hot stones or flames.
A Repacking the body with sticks, reeds, clay and camelid fur.
A Reassembling parts, perhaps sewing them together with cactus spines.
A Slathering the body with thick paste made from ash.
A Replacing the skin, patched with sea-lion hide.
A Attaching a wig of human hair and clay mask.
A Painting the mummy with black manganese (or, in later years, red ocher).
Several hundred Chinchorro mummies have now been discovered; all ages are represented and there’s no evidence to suggest that mummification was reserved for a special few. Interestingly, some mummies were repeatedly repainted, suggesting that the Chinchorro kept and possibly displayed them for long periods before eventual burial. Millennia later, the conquistadores were appalled by a similar Inka practice, in which mummified ancestors were dressed up and paraded in religious celebrations.
8Getting There & Away
To get to Poconchile, 35km from Arica, take Bus Lluta to the end of the line at the police checkpoint. Taxis colectivos charge around CH$3500 from outside Arica’s international bus terminal; you’ll have to wait for it to fill up. To explore more of the area, you’ll need your own car.
Putre
%058 / POP 1450
Pocket-sized Putre is an appealing Aymara village perched precariously on a hillside in the precordillera at a dizzying elevation of 3530m. Just 150km from Arica, it’s an ideal acclimatization stop en route to the elevated Parque Nacional Lauca on the altiplano. As such, this languid mountain village now hosts a number of hostels and tour agencies.
Originally a 16th-century reducción (Spanish settlement to facilitate control of the native population), the village retains houses with late-colonial elements. In the surrounding hills local farmers raise alfalfa for llamas, sheep and cattle on extensive stone-faced agricultural terraces of even greater antiquity.
TTours
Terrace Lodge & ToursTOURS
(%58-223-0499; www.terracelodge.com; Circunvalación 25)
Flavio of Terrace Lodge is not only a fountain of info but runs a range of excellently guided tours, which take you away from the crowds and to some hidden spots, both in the immediate area around Putre as well as further north. He also sells quality maps of the region (CH$5000).
Tour AndinoADVENTURE
(%cell 9-9011-0702; www.tourandino.com; Baquedano 340)
A one-man show run by local guide Justino Jirón. While he does the usual roster of tours (which get mixed reviews), his specialty is treks into the surrounding mountains and volcano climbs.
zFestivals & Events
CarnavalCARNIVAL
(hFeb)
Visitors get dragged into the fun during Putre’s Carnaval. Scores of balloon bombs filled with flour are pelted around, not to mention clouds of chaya (multicolored paper dots). Two noncompetitive groups, the older banda and younger tarqueada, provide the music. The event ends with the burning of the momo, a figure symbolizing the frivolity of Carnaval.
4Sleeping
oTerrace Lodge & CafeLODGE$
(%58-223-0499; www.terracelodge.com; Circunvalación 25; s/d CH$37,000/43,000; iW)
A friendly pair of multilingual Italian expats run this hideaway with five rustic-chic rooms. Units are small but well heated, with mountain views through tiny long windows, plus down duvets and all-day hot water. Look for the sign as you enter town. It’s the only place in town that accepts credit cards. Book way ahead. The owner also runs tours.
Pachamama HostelHOSTEL$
(%cell 9-6353-5187; www.hostalpachamama.cl/serv.php; off Baquedano; dm/s/d without bathroom CH$10,000/14,000/25,000, apt CH$40,000; W)
The best-value lodging in town has a great traveler atmosphere, with tidy adobe-walled rooms set around a sunny courtyard. Guests can use the kitchen, play billiards or table tennis and hang out in the lounge. Pachamama also runs excursions (from CH$30,000) and offers bike hire (per day CH$3100).
Hearty breakfasts are available for around CH$6100.
Hotel KukuliHOTEL$
(%cell 9-9161-4709; reservashotelkukuli@gmail.com; Baquedano; r CH$30,000; pW)
Kukuli is a fair choice on the main strip, with rooms sporting either a small terrace or a sunny alcove but regrettably no heating. If the hotel seems closed, ask in the owner’s store at Baquedano 301.
Residencial La PalomaGUESTHOUSE$
(%58-222-2710; lapalomaputre@hotmail.com; O’Higgins 353; s/d CH$15,000/30,000; pW)
Putre’s most established residencial (budget accommodations) and restaurant slots nine rooms around two concrete courtyards. It has hot showers (morning and evening only) and noisy rooms which vary greatly – those at the front are a better bet. Enter from the back on Baquedano or through the restaurant.
Hotel Q’antatiHOTEL$$
(%cell 9-9663-8998; www.hotelqantati.blogspot.com.ar; Hijuela 208; s/d CH$51,000/60,000; p)
The favorite of tour groups, this Aymara-run hotel is Putre’s most upscale and priciest option, with 24-hour hot showers, firm beds, heated doubles with unheated large bathrooms and a fancy living room with a fireplace. Get rooms 8, 9 or 10 for best views. It’s behind the army barracks on the edge of town.
5Eating
CantaverdiINTERNATIONAL$
(Canto 339; mains CH$4000-7500; h10am-3pm & 6:30-10pm)
Two rustic rooms with contemporary artwork and a fireplace right off the main plaza. The menu features a few Andean staple dishes as well as crowd-pleasers such as sandwiches, pizzas, tablas (shared plates) and empanadas.
WalisumaCHILEAN$
(Baquedano 300; mains CH$2000-4000; h7am-9:30pm)
This popular local spot two blocks south of the plaza offers warming, filling lunch specials (two courses including soup around CH$3500). It also has sandwiches and snacks, but no menu.
RosamelCHILEAN$$
(cnr Carrera & Latorre; mains CH$4500-7500, 3-course lunch CH$4000; h6am-10pm; v)
On a corner of the plaza, Rosamel has a big menu of Andean dishes, including lomo de alpaca con papas fritas (alpaca meat with fries). There are a few vegetarian options as well, including quinoa burgers.
8Information
BancoEstado (Arturo Prat 301) Putre’s only bank, off the main plaza, has a 24-hour ATM, but sometimes runs out of money; bring sufficient cash with you from Arica.
Oficina de Información Turística (%58-259-4897; imputre@entelchile.net; Latorre s/n; h8:30am-1:30pm & 2:30-5:45pm Mon-Fri) A handy resource on the plaza, although it has no town maps and opens only sporadically.
Centro Salud Familiar de Putre (Baquedano 261; h8:30am-6:30pm) This clinic will give you oxygen if the dizzying altitude gets to you. Outside official hours, ring the bell; there’s always someone available to help.
8Getting There & Away
Putre is 150km east of Arica via paved Chile 11, the international highway to Bolivia. Buses La Paloma serves Putre daily, departing Arica at 7am, returning at 2pm (CH$4500). Buy return tickets at Hotel Kukuli.
Transportes Gutiérrez also runs from Arica to Putre on Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday and Friday at 7am and Sunday at 8pm (CH$3500, three hours). From Putre, buses leave from the plaza for Arica on Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday and Friday at 5pm (Friday’s bus can be full, so plan ahead).
If taking the bus to Putre from Arica, get a seat on the right side to see the geoglyphs of the Lluta Valley.
Buses to Parinacota, in Parque Nacional Lauca, pass the turnoff to Putre, which is 5km from the main highway.
Parque Nacional Lauca
It’s not just the exaggerated altitude (3000m to 6300m above sea level) that leaves visitors to this national park breathless. Situated 160km northeast of Arica (near the Bolivian border), Parque Nacional Lauca, comprising 1380 sq km of altiplano, is a Unesco Biosphere Reserve home to breathtaking scenery, snow-sprinkled volcanoes, sparkling lakes and isolated hot springs. It also shelters pretty highland villages and a huge variety of wildlife. The nimble-footed vicuña and rabbit-like viscacha are the star attractions, but you’re also likely to see other South American camelids and a variety of bird species (there are more than 150 species in the park, including the occasional condor and fast-footed rhea).
Lauca’s most spectacular feature is glistening Lago Chungará, one of the world’s highest lakes, abundant with birdlife. Looming over it is the impossibly perfect cone of Volcán Parinacota, a dormant volcano with a twin brother, Volcán Pomerape, just across the border.
2Activities
Termas JurasiHOT SPRINGS
(adult/child CH$2500/1000; hdaylight)
A pretty cluster of thermal and mud baths huddled amid rocky scenery 11km northeast of Putre.
8Information
Parque Nacional Lauca is administered from the refugio (rustic shelter) at Parinacota. Otherwise, rangers at the Las Cuevas entrance and at Lago Chungará are sometimes available for consultation; posts are, in theory, staffed from around 9am to 12:30pm then 1pm to 5:30pm. If you prefer to visit the park independently, you’ll need a car with extra supplies of gas, lots of flexibility and a laid-back attitude. Inquire with Conaf in Arica about hikes and lodgings (the latter mainly basic options for the hard core).
Take it easy at first: the park’s altitude is mostly well above 4000m and overexertion is a big no-no until you’ve had a few days to adapt. Eat and drink moderately; have mainly light food and no fizzy drinks or (little) alcohol. If you suffer anyway, try a cup of tea made from the common Aymara herbal remedy chachacoma, rica rica or mate de coca. Keep water at your side, as the throat desiccates rapidly in the arid climate and you lose lots of liquids. Definitely wear sunblock and a wide-brim hat – tropical rays are brutal at this elevation.
8Getting There & Away
The park straddles Chile 11, the paved Arica–La Paz highway; the trip from Arica takes just under three hours. There are several buses from Arica. Other bus companies with daily service to La Paz, Bolivia, will drop you off in the park, but you will probably have to pay the full fare.
Agencies in Arica and Putre offer tours. Renting a car will provide access to the park’s remoter sites such as Guallatire, Caquena and beyond into the Salar de Surire (the latter only with a high-clearance vehicle, since you’ll ford several watercourses, and not during rainy season). Carry extra fuel in cans; most rental agencies will provide them. Do not forget warm clothing and sleeping gear, and take time to acclimatize.
South of Parque Nacional Lauca
Visiting Monumento Natural Salar de Surire is a surefire way to see huge herds of roaming vicuña, pockets of cuddly viscacha, as well the occasional ungainly ñandú (the ostrich-like rhea). But the star attraction of this isolated 113-sq-km salt flat is the flamingo: three species, including the rare James flamingo, come to nest in the sprawling salt lake.
The best time to see them is from December to April. Situated 126km from Putre, the reserve was formed in 1983, when the government chopped up Parque Nacional Lauca. In 1989 the outgoing dictatorship gave 45.6 sq km to mining company Quiborax.
More than 20,000 wild vicuña are thought to roam the sparsely inhabited 2100 sq km of the off-the-beaten-path Reserva Nacional Las Vicuñas, directly south of Lauca and surrounded by sky-hugging volcanoes. At the base of smoking Volcán Guallatire, 60km from Parinacota via a roundabout route, the village of Guallatire features a 17th-century church and a couple of no-frills lodging options. Bring a warm sleeping bag.
There’s no public transportation out this way. Most agencies in Arica and Putre offer two- to four-day circuits that take in these two reserves and drop you off either back in Arica or in Iquique.
Although most visitors return to Putre, it’s possible to make a southerly circuit through Parque Nacional Volcán Isluga and back to Arica via Camiña or Huara. Always consult Conaf or the police first. This route is particularly iffy during the summer rainy season.