Norte Grande
San Pedro de Atacama
Reserva Nacional Los Flamencos
El Tatio Geysers
Calama
Chuquicamata
Antofagasta
South of Antofagasta
Iquique
East of Iquique
Pisagua
Arica
Around Arica
Route 11
Putre
Parque Nacional Lauca
The Natural World Gallery
Norte Grande
Why Go?
Dust devils zoom wantonly through sun-scorched Norte Grande with its undulating curves of rock and stone, Andean lagoons, snowcapped volcanoes, salt flats and sensuously perforated coastline. Famous as much for its hilltop observatories as its massive copper mines, those vast, uninhabited spaces touch the soul and the imagination. Norte Grande’s star attraction is the tiny adobe village of San Pedro de Atacama, just a day trip away from the world’s highest geyser field and some astounding desert formations.
But there’s more to Norte Grande than San Pedro. Go for lung-bursting, jaw-dropping adventure near the mountain village of Putre in the high-altitude reserve of Parque Nacional Lauca or further afield to Monumento Natural Salar de Surire. Spend a week sunning yourself on the beaches outlying Iquique and Arica, or make your own adventure in the lost ghost towns and hard-sprung mining centers that make this region unique.
When to Go
- Jan–Feb Vacationers hit the coast and some highland spots become impossible to reach.
- Sep–Oct The altiplano has solid weather and European summer visitors have gone home.
- Jul–Aug Best for highland destinations (though it gets bitterly cold at night) and for hard-core surfing.
Best Places to Stay
Norte Grande Highlights
1 San Pedro de Atacama Watching jaw-dropping sunsets, sand-boarding down golden dunes and photographing topaz lakes against chiseled snow-covered peaks.
2 Museo Arqueológico San Miguel de Azapa Wondering about the lives they led while contemplating the world’s oldest mummies.
3 Parque Nacional Lauca Breathing in the clean (but very thin) air while visiting Andean villages and high-altitude lakes.
4 Iquique Surfing by day and sipping pisco sours by night in this buzzing coastal charmer.
5 Putre Leaving the tourist trail behind and traversing the unexplored frontier north of this quaint Aymara village.
6 El Tatio Geysers Spotting llama and vicuña after visiting the highest geyser field in the world.
7 Arica Taking coastal walks, riding the rails to Poconchile and feasting on seafood.
8 Humberstone Pondering the past while wandering through this spooky ghost town near Iquique.
History
Despite its distance from Santiago, Norte Grande has always played a strong role in Chile’s political and economic arenas, thanks mostly to the vast mineral wealth sitting just below the rocky surface. And even with its extreme desert aridity, it has sustained humans for many thousands of years.
Earliest inhabitants include the Chinchorro (famous for their extraordinary burial practices), the coastal Chango, and the Atacameño peoples who lived in oases near Calama and San Pedro de Atacama, using irrigation techniques adopted from the Tiwanaku culture in present-day Bolivia.
The indigenous populations were largely subdued during the conquest in the latter part of the 16th century, but pockets of independent Changos remained, and the area wasn’t substantially resettled until large deposits of nitrate brought the first boom to the region in the 1810s.
Interestingly, this part of the country only became Chilean in the late 19th century. Before the War of the Pacific (1879–84) the region belonged to Peru and Bolivia, but by the time the war had ended, Chile had increased its landmass by one-third.
Chileans were not the only ones to reap the benefits. Foreign prospectors moved quickly to capitalize on Chilean land gains. The nitrate boom was uniquely explosive here. Company towns flourished in the early 20th century and became bubbles of energy and profit, and large port cities such as Antofagasta and Iquique sprang to life.
It didn’t last long, though – the invention of petroleum-based fertilizers spelt doom for the nitrate industry and the subsequent bust drove the nation to near bankruptcy, and left scores of ghost towns scattered along the Panamerican Hwy.
Mining once again threw Chile a lifeline as copper prices began to rise and the previously stagnant copper-mining industry came into its own. Huge operations (including one of the world’s largest open-pit copper mines, at Chuquicamata) soon dotted the landscape, keeping the economy afloat but bringing with them a slew of unique, modern problems, including environmental degradation, higher prices, overcrowding and pollution.
RESPONSIBLE TOURISM
High season brings thousands of tourists to tiny San Pedro. Residents, especially the indigenous Atacameño peoples, are sensitive to the overwhelming presence of outsiders. Make a special effort to behave appropriately and blend in as best you can; avoid wearing highly revealing clothes in town (save those bikinis for the hot springs), remove hats while visiting churches and consider wearing long pants. And don’t take photographs of the people without asking for their permission first.
Water is scarce (obviously), so refrain from long soaks in the shower.
San Pedro de Atacama
%055 / POP 5600 / ELEV 2438M
It is said that the high quantities of quartz and copper in the region gives its people positive energy, and the good vibes of northern Chile’s number-one tourist draw, San Pedro de Atacama, are sky high.
The popularity of this adobe precordillera oasis stems from its position in the heart of some of northern Chile’s most spectacular scenery. A short drive away lies the country’s largest salt flat, its edges crinkled by volcanoes (symmetrical Licancábur, at 5916m, looms closest to the village). Here too are fields of steaming geysers, a host of otherworldly rock formations and weird layer-cake landscapes.
San Pedro itself, 106km southeast of Calama via paved Chile 23, is quite small, but it attracts hordes of travelers. Despite the high prices and tourist-agency touts, there’s undeniable allure to this desert village with its picturesque adobe streets, laid-back residents and music-filled eateries.
History
San Pedro was a pre-Columbian pit stop on the trading route from the highlands to the coast. It was visited by conquistador Pedro de Valdivia in 1540, and the town later became a major stop on early 20th-century cattle drives from Argentina to the nitrate oficinas of the desert.
Locals, the Atacameño people, still practice irrigated farming in the ayllus (a-ee-oos; small indigenous communities). Many farm on terraces over a thousand years old.
1Sights & Activities
Iglesia San PedroCHURCH
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Le Paige s/n) 
F
The recently restored Iglesia San Pedro is a delightful little colonial church built with indigenous or artisanal materials: chunky adobe walls and roof, a ceiling made from cardón (cactus wood) resembling shriveled tire tracks and, in lieu of nails, hefty leather straps. The church dates from the 17th century, though its present walls were built in 1745, and the bell tower was added in 1890.
Trekking & Biking
Around San Pedro rise immense volcanoes, a few of them active, and begging to be climbed. If climbing isn’t your cup of tea, consider a more active trekking or biking trip to the usual suspects in the area, such as Valle de la Luna. Bikes are available for rent at several agencies and hotels around town, for about CH$6000 per day; try Km O (MAP GOOGLE MAP; Caracoles 282B; half-/full day CH$3500/6000; 
h9am-9pm).
Vulcano ExpedicionesADVENTURE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %55-285-1023; www.vulcanochile.com; Caracoles 317; 10am-8pm)
Runs treks to volcanoes and mountains, including day climbs to Sairecabur (5971m, CH$110,000), Lascar (5592m, CH$85,000) and Tocco (5604m, CH$670,000). Two-day climbs take in Licancábur (CH$250,000) and other mountains. It can also hook you up with motorbike tours offered by On Safari.
CosmoAndino ExpedicionesTOURS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %55-285-1069; www.cosmoandino.cl; Caracoles 259; h9am-9:30pm)
This well-established operation specializes in trekking excursions to nearby highlights; expect to pay more than for a standard tour but you’ll also get more ‘quality time in the Atacama,’ as its motto claims.
Azimut 360ADVENTURE
(%in Santiago 2-235-3085; www.azimut360.com)
Although it doesn’t have an office in town, Santiago-based Azimut 360 still has its experts on the ground and remains one of the top choices for climbing and trekking tours. For information and bookings, call the office in Santiago.
Sand-Boarding
Jumping on a sand-board and sliding down enormous sand dunes is the most popular of the adrenaline-pumping activities around San Pedro. This happens in Valle de la Muerte, where 150m-high dunes make perfect terrain.
A number of outfits lead sand-boarding tours, including Sandboard San Pedro (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %55-285-1062; www.sandboardsanpedro.com; Caracoles 362-H) and Altitud Aventura (MAP; %cell 9-7387-5602; Toconao 441; h10am-9pm).
TTours
A bewildering array of tours is on offer. Unfortunately, the quality of some tours has become somewhat lax, and travelers complain of operators who cancel abruptly or run unsafe vehicles. Tour leaders are often merely drivers rather than trained guides. Agencies often contract out to independent drivers, many of whom work for different companies, so the quality of your driver – or guide, for that matter – can depend on the luck of the draw. That said, don’t unfairly dismiss local Spanish-speaking drivers. Many are very courteous and knowledgeable, and can provide a valuable insider’s viewpoint.
You may find that the agency you paid is not the same agency that picks you up. Some agencies offer tours in English, German or Dutch, but these tours may require advance notice or extra payment. Competition keeps prices down, and operators come and go.
The tourist information office has a helpful, entertaining and occasionally terrifying book of complaints on various tour agencies; the problem is that nearly every agency is featured and, by the time you read about unlicensed or drunken drivers over the passes to Bolivia, you may decide to do nothing but write postcards from the safety of your hostel, which would be a tragic mistake in such a beautiful area. Nevertheless, when choosing an operator, ask lots of questions, talk to other travelers, trust your judgment and try to be flexible. Don’t sign up for tours on the street – any decent tour operator will have an office, and smooth-talking scammers have been known to prey on unwary travelers.
At last count, there were over 50 tour agencies in town, so shopping around is an option you may wish to explore.
Standard Tours
The following destinations are featured in the most popular tours offered by agencies around San Pedro. Most tour operators charge roughly the same for these trips so keep the following benchmark prices in mind when shopping around. Note that entrance fees are not included in tour prices.
Valle de la Luna Leaves San Pedro midafternoon to catch the sunset over the valley, returning early evening. Includes visits to Valle de la Luna, Valle de la Muerte and Tres Marías (CH$16,000, entrance fee CH$10,000).
Geysers del Tatio This hugely popular tour leaves San Pedro at 4am or 5am in order to see the surreal sight of the geysers at sunrise, returning between noon and 1pm. Most tours include thermal baths and breakfast (CH$25,000, entrance fee CH$10,000).
Piedras Rojas and Lagunas Leaves San Pedro between 7am and 8am to see flamingos at Laguna Chaxa in the Salar de Atacama, then moves on to the town of Socaire, Lagunas Miñiques and Miscanti, followed by a visit to the photogenic rock formations of Piedras Rojas. Return between 4pm and 7pm (CH$45,000, entrance fee CH$5500).
Tulor and Pukará de Quitor Half-day archaeological tours take in this pair of pre-Columbian ruins. Departures between 8am and 9am, returning between 1pm and 3pm (around CH$15,000, entrance fees CH$6,000).
Tours 4 TipsWALKING
(MAP; www.tours4tips.com; Plaza de Armas; htours 10am & 3pm)
For a deeper understanding of San Pedro, take an edifying stroll with this friendly outfit. On two-hour walks around the village and its outskirts, enthusiastic guides relate fascinating episodes from San Pedro’s past, touching on indigenous beliefs and symbols, desert plants and hallucinogens, and even a bit of celestial mythology. Tours are offered in Spanish and English.
Una Noche con las EstrellasOUTDOORS
(MAP; %cell 9-5272-2201; www.unanocheconlasestrellas.cl; Calama 440; astronomy tour CH$20,000; h10am-11pm)
This recommended outfit takes you to a light-free spot 6km outside town for a memorable stargazing experience, available in English or Spanish. You’ll get a brief ‘class’ covering astronomical phenomena, then have the chance to peer through five telescopes aimed at different features. Snacks and drinks included.
Tours depart at 9pm and 11pm (8pm and 10:30pm in winter).
Cordillera TravelerTOURS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %55-320-5028; www.cordilleratraveller.com; Tocopilla 429-B; h9am-9pm)
This small family-run outfit gets the best feedback from travelers regarding touring to Uyuni, Bolivia.
San Pedro de Atacama Celestial ExplorationsOUTDOORS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %55-256-6278; www.spaceobs.com; Caracoles 166; 2½hr tours CH$25,000; h11am-9pm Dec-Mar, to 7pm Apr-Nov)
Take a Tour of the Night Sky from San Pedro with Servicios Astronómicos Maury y Compañía. French astronomer Alain Maury ferries travelers into the desert, far from intrusive light contamination, where they can enjoy the stars in all their glory. He owns several chunky telescopes through which visitors can gawk at galaxies, nebulae, planets and more. Shooting stars are guaranteed.
Reserve well ahead. Tours leave twice nightly, and they alternate between Spanish, English and French. Bring very warm clothes.
ALMA Visitor CenterTOURS
(%in Santiago 2-467-6416; www.almaobservatory.org; Hwy 23, Km121; free with online registration) F
Located 55km southeast of San Pedro, the Atacama Large Millimeter/submillimeter Array (ALMA) consists of 66 antennae, most with a diameter of around 12m. This field of interstellar ‘ears’ simulates a telescope an astonishing 16km in diameter, making it possible to pick up objects in space up to 100 times fainter than those previously detected.
Contact the ALMA Visitor Center to visit. It’s free but guest numbers are limited; register online. A free shuttle from Tumisa near Ave Pedro de Valdivia provides transportation to the facility, leaving at 9am and returning at 1pm.
ApachetaOUTDOORS
(MAP; www.apacheta.travel; Plaza de Armas; astronomy tour CH$20,000; h10:30am-2:30pm & 5-8:30pm)
Facing the Plaza de Armas, this outfit generally receives positive reviews for its scientifically minded astronomy tours, though Apacheta doesn’t go as far out of town as some other outfits.
On SafariMOTORBIKE TOURS
(%cell 9-7215-3254; www.onsafariatacama.com; 4hr motorbike tour CH$135,000)
Offers motorbike, all-terrain-vehicle (ATV), 4WD, mountain-biking and mountaineering tours in the Atacama region and further afield. Other offerings include tours with an emphasis on photography, bird-watching or astronomy.
Rancho La HerraduraHORSEBACK RIDING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %55-285-1956; www.atacamahorseadventure.com; Tocopilla 406; h9am-8pm)
Sightseeing from the saddle is available from several places, including Rancho La Herradura. Tours vary from two hours for CH$20,000 to epic 10-day treks with camping in the desert. English-, German- and French-speaking guides are available.
Desert AdventureTOURS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %cell 9-9779-7211; www.desertadventure.cl; cnr Caracoles & Tocopilla; h9:30am-9pm)
Has the full spectrum of tours and bilingual guides. Unique offerings include an ethnocultural ‘Ancestral Caravan’ tour that features two hours of llama trekking along routes used by Atacameños in centuries past (CH$25,000).
Terra ExtremeTOURS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %55-285-1274; www.terraextreme.cl; Toconao s/n; h9am-9pm) 
S
Offers the full range of standard tours using a well-maintained fleet of its own vehicles.
Less Common Tours
Some nonstandard tours available in San Pedro include a full-day excursion to the Tatio geysers in the morning, continuing to the pueblos of Caspana and Chiu Chiu, and then the Pukará de Lasana, finishing in Calama (a good tour to do before your flight the next day), or returning to San Pedro.
A few other tours are becoming increasingly popular, such as jaunts to Laguna Cejar and Ojos de Salar (you can swim in both, and in Cejar you can float just like in the Dead Sea), to Valle del Arcoiris with its rainbowlike multicolored rock formations and Salar de Tara. The last is one of the most spectacular, if back-breaking, trips from San Pedro, which involves a round-trip journey of 200km, to altitudes of 4300m.
Note that these tours don’t leave regularly and have a higher price tag than the bestsellers in the area.
zFestivals & Events
CarnavalCARNIVAL
(hFeb or Mar)
Expect costumed dancers and parades.
Fiesta de Nuestra Señora de la CandelariaRELIGIOUS
(hFeb)
In early February San Pedro celebrates with religious dances.
Fiesta de San Pedro y San PabloRELIGIOUS
(hJun 29)
Locals celebrate with folk dancing, Mass, a procession of statues, a rodeo and modern dancing that gets rowdy by midnight.
4Sleeping
Hostal PangeaHOSTEL$
(MAP; %55-320-5080; www.hostalpangea.cl; Le Paige 202; dm/d CH$13,000/43,000; 
W)
Pangea is a traveler favorite for its excellent central location, friendly staff and budget-friendly prices. The spacious and colorfully decorated patio is a great place to meet other travelers. It can be noisy at night, and it’s definitely more a place to socialize than relax.
Hostal SonchekHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %55-285-1112; www.hostalsonchek.cl; cnr Paige & Calama; dm CH$12,000, d CH$44,000, s/d without bathroom CH$16,000/27,000; W)
Thatched roofs and adobe walls characterize the rooms at this lovely, good-value hostel. It’s centered on a small courtyard, and there’s a shared kitchen, luggage storage and a garden out back with table tennis and a few tables. The common bathrooms with solar-heated showers are kept quite clean.
Hostal Edén AtacameñoHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %55-259-0819; http://edenatacameno.cl; Toconao 592; s/d incl breakfast CH$25,000/40,000, without bathroom or breakfast CH$12,000/24,000; 
p
iW)
This laid-back hostel has rooms around a couple of sociable, hammock-strung patios with plentiful seating. Guests can use the kitchen, and there’s laundry service and luggage storage. The shared bathrooms are clean.
Hostelling InternationalHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %55-256-4683; hostelsanpedro@hotmail.com; Caracoles 360; dm/d CH$12,000/45,000, d/tr/q without bathroom CH$30,000/38,000/45,000; W)
This convivial spot offers dorms – with some bunks nearly 3m up – and a few doubles around a small patio. It has a shared kitchen and lockers, and staff will book tours. HI members get a CH$2000 discount.
oHostal Quinta AdelaB&B$$
(%55-285-1272; www.quintaadela.com; Toconao 624; r from CH$73,000; iW)
This friendly family-run place, just a quick walk from town, has seven character-filled rooms (each with its own individual style) and a shady terrace and is situated alongside a sprawling orchard with hammocks. There’s luggage storage and the hostel is flexible with check-in and checkout.
Hostal PuritamaGUESTHOUSE$$
(MAP; %55-285-1540; www.hostalpuritama.cl; Caracoles 113; s/d CH$38,000/48,000, without bathroom CH$20,000/34,000; W)
Right on San Pedro’s main drag, Puritama has tidy, simply furnished rooms, though some are a touch on the small side. Plastic tables are set in the shaded garden, where you can take in a bit of birdsong.
Hotel Loma SanchezHOTEL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %cell 9-9277-7478; www.lomasanchez.cl; Caracoles 259-A; d/tr CH$55,000/75,000, s/d without bathroom from CH$25,000/30,000; W)
Sitting right in the middle of the Caracoles strip, Loma Sanchez has a backyard full of small yurts with adobe walls and thatch roofs that make for an atmospheric (if somewhat chilly) stay. The guesthouse also has more traditional rooms, with pleasing touches like wooden floorboards and local weavings for decorations.
Takha Takha Hotel & CampingHOTEL, CAMPGROUND$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %55-285-1038; www.takhatakha.cl; Caracoles 101-A; campsites per person CH$13,000, s/d CH$54,000/62,000, without bathroom CH$21,000/41,000; W
s)
A popular catch-all outfit with decent campsites, plain budget rooms and spotless midrange accommodations set around a sprawling flowery garden with a swimming pool. A great location and friendly service add to the value.
Hotel Don SebastiánHOTEL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %cell 9-7966-9943; www.donsebastian.cl; Domingo Atienza 140; s/d CH$70,000/90,000, cabins CH$100,000-110,000; piW)
Solid midrange option a hop and a skip from town, with well-appointed heated rooms and a handful of cabins with kitchenettes. There are nice shared areas, but it can get busy with tour groups.
Hostal LickanaHOSTEL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %55-256-6370; www.lickanahostal.cl; Caracoles 140; s/d CH$49,000/65,000; pW)
Just off the main drag, this low-slung hotel has superclean rooms with big closets, colorful bedspreads and straw-covered front patios. What it lacks is the common-area ambience of other hostels.
Katarpe HostalHOTEL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %55-285-1033; Domingo Atienza 441; s/d CH$55,000/67,000; pW)
A great location just off Caracoles, a range of reasonably sized rooms, crisp sheets and decent beds make this a good if unexciting choice. Rooms are arranged around a couple of patios, one featuring long wooden tables. There’s a laundry service too, and the staff are accommodating.
Hotel KimalBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %55-285-1030; Atienza; s/d CH$121,000/135,000, cabins s/d from CH$111,000/124,000; Ws)
A high-end option a short stroll south of the main street, Kimal has lovely rooms with adobe walls, wooden floors, modern bathrooms and all the extras (minifridge, room service), plus attractive grounds with a pool. You can arrange massages, take a Hatha yoga class or book an excursion.
Also rents freestanding cabins set in an overgrown garden across the street.
Atacama AwasiHOTEL$$$
(%cell 9-7659-1320; www.awasiatacama.com; Tocopilla 4; s/d all-inclusive per night from US$675/1350; ps)
A kilometer or so south of town, the Awasi is one of the finer upscale choices in the area. Rooms are gorgeously decorated using mostly local materials (even the bath salts are locally sourced) in a rustic-chic design. There’s a great on-site restaurant, a sweet little pool area and perks include a personal guide/driver for each guest.
Tierra Atacama Hotel & SpaHOTEL$$$
(%55-255-5977; www.tierrahotels.com; Séquitor s/n; s/d all-inclusive 2 nights US$2000/3100; piWs)
All the luxe perks paired with heaps of style await those who stay at this resort-style hideaway 1.5km south of Caracoles. Stone-floored rooms showcase an organic minimalist look, outdoor showers and terraces that sport wow vistas of Licancábur. There’s a spa and a restaurant. The all-inclusive rate includes food, drinks and tours.
Hotel TerrantaiHOTEL$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %55-285-1045; www.terrantai.com; Tocopilla 411; d CH$155,000-190,000; pWs)
This is arguably the most intimate and central of San Pedro’s upscale hotels. The key is in the architecture: high, narrow passageways made from smooth rocks from the Río Loa lead guests to the elegant rooms with Andean textiles and ceiling fans. Slightly pricier superior rooms have more space and light and nicer views. There’s a bamboo-shaded sculpture garden out back as well as a dip pool and a bar.
5Eating
FranchuteriaBAKERY$
(Le Paige 527; croissants CH$1100-2500; h7am-8:30pm)
About 500m east of the plaza is San Pedro’s best bakery. Run by a talented young Frenchman, Franchuteria has beautifully baked goods, including perfect baguettes with unique ingredients like Roquefort cheese and fig, or goat’s cheese and oregano, and buttery-rich croissants – also available with unique fillings like manjar (dulce de leche).
Enjoy your goodies with an espresso in the garden-like seating area in front.
BabalúICE CREAM$
(MAP; Caracoles 140; ice creams CH$1900-3900; h10am-10pm)
One of several ice-cream shops on the main street, Babalú serves up rich flavors you won’t find at home. Try ice creams made from desert fruits like chañar or algarrobo, sample pisco sour, hoja de coca (coca leaf) and delightful surprises such as quinoa. You can’t go wrong!
TchiuchiCHICKEN$
(MAP; Toconao 424; mains CH$3200-6000; hnoon-4pm & 5-11pm Thu-Tue)
If San Pedro’s high prices have you down, pay a visit to this no-nonsense rotisserie-chicken joint. A quarter of a chicken with fries will set you back only CH$3200. Get it to go and make a picnic out of it.
Cafe PeregrinoCAFETERIA$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Gustavo Le Paige 348; mains CH$3500-6000; h9am-9pm; W
v)
Overlooking the plaza, this well-placed cafe has a few shaded tables strategically placed for people-watching. Foodwise, you’ll find pizzas, quesadillas, sandwiches, pancakes (for breakfast) and nice cakes and pastries. And, yes, real espressos and cappuccinos!
Salon de Te O2CAFE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Caracoles 295; mains around CH$3000-6000; h7am-11pm Mon-Sat, 8am-11pm Sun; W)
Early-morning breakfasts, great quiches, juicy meat sandwiches and lovely tarts are the highlights of this colorful cafe run by a French-Chilean couple. You can while away the afternoon on the shady back patio.
TahiraCHILEAN$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Tocopilla 372; CH$4500-9000; hnoon-11pm)
A down-to-earth cafe where the locals outnumber the gringos, Tahira serves up no-frills mainstays that are satisfying, and barbecues on weekends.
La CasonaCHILEAN$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %55-285-1337; Caracoles 195; mains CH$9000-14,000; hnoon-midnight Wed-Mon; W)
A dining room with high ceilings, dark wood paneling and an adobe fireplace in the middle, classic La Casona serves up sizzling parrilladas (mix of grilled meats) and Chilean staples such as pastel de choclo (maize casserole). There’s a long list of Chilean wines and a small patio for alfresco lunches.
Las Delicias de CarmenCHILEAN$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Calama 370; lunch specials CH$4000-7000, mains CH$8000-14,000; h8:30am-10:30pm; Wv)
Great breakfasts, delicious cakes and empanadas, brick-oven pizzas (choose your own toppings) and different dishes daily are churned out at this light-flooded restaurant with leafy views. Daily specials – such as cazuela (stew) or carrot-ginger soup – and a filling menú del dia (three-course lunch) always bring in the crowds.
Todo NaturalINTERNATIONAL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.tierratodonatural.cl; Caracoles 271; mains CH$8000-12,800; hnoon-11pm; Wv)
Local ingredients like quinoa, plus Asian influences, whole-wheat sandwiches, good salads and other healthy offerings fill out the lengthy menu here. The service is erratic but the food decent, and there are vegetarian choices.
La PlazaINTERNATIONAL$$
(MAP; Plaza de Armas; mains CH$5000-10,000; h8am-9pm)
The food can be hit or miss, but this place has one of the loveliest settings in town, with umbrella-shaded tables facing the greenery of the plaza.
El ToconarINTERNATIONAL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; cnr Toconao & Caracoles; mains CH$5000-12,000; hnoon-1am)
El Toconar has one of the best garden setups in town, complete with bonfires for those chilly desert nights. Also on offer is a wide menu and a superb selection of cocktails (including pisco sours infused with desert herbs).
El ChurruáPIZZA$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Tocopillo 442; mains CH$6000-11,000; hnoon-11pm)
The best thin-crust pizzas in town are at this unassuming little place just off the main drag. There are only a few tables, but it’s worth the wait. No alcohol on the menu.
BlancoINTERNATIONAL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %55-285-1301; Caracoles 195B; mains CH$8500-11,000; h7am-midnight Wed-Mon; W)
The hippest eatery in town, this all-white adobe-clad restaurant has artful bamboo lampshades, a terrace with a fireplace out back, a good range of dishes and a buzzy vibe. Favorites include seafood risotto, Mediterranean-style salad and pizzas.
CkunnaINTERNATIONAL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %55-298-0093; www.ckunna.cl; Tocopilla 359; mains CH$9000-13,800; hnoon-3pm & 7-11:30pm; W)
Come for the homemade pastas and the fusion of altiplano and Mediterranean fare served inside an old school building a stroll from the main strip. There’s a welcoming bar and a terrace with a bonfire out back.
oBaltinacheCHILEAN$$$
(%cell 9-3191-4225; Atienza; 3-course menu CH$15,000; h1-4pm & 7:30-10pm)
A short walk south from busy Caracoles, Baltinache has some of San Pedro’s best cuisine. Thick adobe walls hung with geoglyph-inspired artwork and flickering candles set the scene at this elegantly understated gem. The menu changes by night and features high-quality local products like river trout, vegetable soup with grated goat’s cheese, rabbit and desserts made from desert fruits. Reserve ahead.
AdobeINTERNATIONAL$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %55-285-1132; Caracoles 211; mains CH$11,000-14,000; h11am-1am; W)
Popular with travelers for its studied rusticity, rock-art decor, bench-like seating and smoky fire in the alfresco dining room. Adobe serves tasty but pricey dishes such as mushroom quinoa risotto or lamb with tabouli and hummus; it’s also a good spot for a drink.
WORTH A TRIP
EXCURSION TO UYUNI, BOLIVIA
Colorful altiplano lakes, weird rock playgrounds worthy of Salvador Dalí, flamingos, volcanoes and, most famously of all, the blindingly white salt flat of Uyuni: these are some of the rewards for taking an excursion into Bolivia northeast of San Pedro de Atacama. However, be warned that this is no cozy ride in the country, and for every five travelers that gush about Uyuni being a highlight of their trip, there’s another declaring it a waking nightmare.
The standard trips take three days, crossing the Bolivian border at Hito Cajón, passing Laguna Colorada and continuing to the Salar de Uyuni before ending in the town of Uyuni. The going rate of around CH$115,000 includes transportation in crowded 4WD jeeps, basic and often teeth-chatteringly cold accommodations, plus food; an extra CH$15,000 to CH$25,000 will get you back to San Pedro on the fourth day (some tour operators drive through the third night). Bring drinks and snacks, warm clothes and a sleeping bag. Travelers clear Chilean immigration at San Pedro and Bolivian immigration on arrival at Uyuni. Certain nationalities (including US citizens) require visas (US$160) to visit, so be prepared. Note that entrance fees to Bolivian parks are not included, and cost approximately CH$20,000.
None of the agencies offering this trip get consistently glowing reports. Cordillera Traveler generally gets positive feedback from travelers.
6Drinking & Nightlife
San Pedro welcomes tourism but not late-night revelers. There’s only one bar and no alcohol is sold after 1am. Nights are cut short by travelers with early tours: waking for a 4am jaunt to El Tatio is enough of a headache without a hangover!
However there’s a cozy bar-cum-restaurant scene, with travelers swapping stories around fires and enjoying happy hours.
ChelacaburBAR
(MAP; Caracoles 212; hnoon-1am)
The only bar in town, Chelacabur draws a wide cross section of residents and foreigners, who come for cold beers, a festive but easygoing vibe and a rock-filled soundtrack. You can also catch football matches on the screen here.
There’s no food, though you can bring in pizza from around the corner at El Churruá.
8Information
There are three ATMs in town (two on Caracoles and the other opposite the museum) but they do not always have money, so bring a big wad of cash, just in case. Many establishments take plastic, but some prefer the real stuff.
There’s free wi-fi on the main plaza (if working).
Oficina de Información Turística (%55-285-1420; cnr Toconao & Le Paige; h9am-9pm) Tourist office offering advice, maps and brochures. Check the annual book of comments for up-to-date traveler feedback on tour agencies, hostels, transportation providers and more.
Posta Médica (%55-285-1010; Le Paige s/n) The local clinic, on the plaza.
8Getting There & Away
San Pedro has a newish bus terminal (Tumisa s/n) about a kilometer southeast of the plaza. All buses depart and arrive here. One company, Tur Bus (%55-268-8711; Licancábur 154), has an office downtown where you can book tickets.
Buses Atacama 2000 (h8am-7pm) has regular departures to Calama (from CH$3000, three daily), where you can connect to its Uyuni bus. Buses Frontera del Norte goes to Calama (five daily) as well as Arica (from CH$18,000) and Iquique (CH$15,000), departing at 9:45pm every night.
Tur Bus has hourly buses to Calama (CH$3000 to CH$4000), from where you can connect to all major destinations in Chile.
Andesmar (%55-259-2692; www.andesmar.com) serves Salta and Jujuy, Argentina, leaving at 8am on Wednesday and Sunday (from CH$30,000, 12 hours with border time). Pullman Bus departs at 9:30am on Wednesday, Friday and Sunday for similar prices. Géminis (%55-289-2065) also goes to Salta (CH$32,000, 12 hours) on Tuesday, Friday and Sunday at 9:30am.
Several agencies in town offer transfer services to Calama airport including Tour Magic (www.tourmagic.cl), which has regular bus service three times a day from the bus terminal to the airport (per person CH$8000, 1½ hours).
8Getting Around
Mountain bikes are a terrific way to steam around San Pedro. Be sure to carry plenty of water and sunblock. Several agencies and hostels rent mountain bikes, for the current going rate of about CH$6000 per day. Some agencies will give out photocopied maps to guide your forays.
Around San Pedro de Atacama
The majority of travelers visit this area on guided tours, though if you have your own wheels, you can explore on your own. Several places (including Valle de la Muerte) are also reachable by foot, though biking is a better option if you want to go green. There’s no public transportation in the area.
Around 3.5km west of San Pedro, the striking Valle de la Muerte (off Ruta 23; CH$3000; h9am-8pm) should figure high on any itinerary to the region, with jagged rocks, a towering sand dune and dramatic viewpoints of the distant cordillera. The name Valle de la Muerte (Death Valley) is actually a linguistic distortion of Valle de Marte (Mars Valley), which more accurately represents its red rock features and otherworldly beauty.
Tour groups typically come in the afternoon before heading over to the nearby Valle de la Luna for sunset. It’s an easy bike ride (or long walk) here, and also accessible by your own vehicle. The tall sand dune is a prime destination for sand-boarding, with outfits like Sandboard San Pedro offering both morning and afternoon excursions.
The La Silla Observatory (%emergencies 9-9839-5312; www.eso.org/public/teles-instr/lasilla) is home to an array of powerful telescopes, with many important discoveries emerging from astronomical research conducted here. You can learn more about the site on a public tour, conducted once a week. Tours take place at 2pm on Saturdays, though you must arrive no later than 1:30pm. You’ll also need your own transportation. To arrange a tour, fill out a visitor form online.
Circular adobe structures huddle together like muddy bubble-wrap in the ruins of Aldea de Tulor (CH$3000; h9am-7pm), the oldest excavated village in the region. It’s an interesting diversion 11km southwest of San Pedro. You can get there by your own vehicle, driving along sandy tracks, or by riding a mountain bike. However, you’ll get more out of the experience if you go on a good guided tour.
If you go alone, there’s often a Spanish-speaking guide who can fill in some of the historical details (included with admission).
Dominating a curvaceous promontory over the Río San Pedro, the crumbling 12th-century Pukará de Quitor (CH$3000; h8:30am-7pm) was one of the last bastions against Pedro de Valdivia and the Spanish in northern Chile. The indigenous forces fought bravely, but were overcome and many were promptly beheaded. About 100 defensive enclosures hug the slopes here, like big stone bird’s nests. The hilltop commands an impressive view of the oasis.
The fort is 3.5km northwest of San Pedro, and easily accessible on foot, by bike or by vehicle. The mirador (lookout) closes at 6pm.
The idyllic Termas de Puritama (adult/child CH$15,000/7000; h9:30am-5:15pm) hot springs puddle together in a box canyon, about 30km northeast of San Pedro en route to El Tatio. Their temperature is about 33°C (91°F), and there are several falls, pools and changing rooms on-site. Few tours stop here due to the hefty admission charged, but taxis will take you or you can drive yourself. The springs are a 20-minute walk from the parking lot.
Bring food, water and sunblock. Go early in the day to beat the crowds. Prices are cheaper Monday to Friday after 2pm (CH$9000).
Reserva Nacional Los Flamencos
Covering 740 sq km, Reserva Nacional Los Flamencos (admission varies per site; hhours vary) contains some of northern Chile’s most spectacular scenery. Amid a parched, untrammeled landscape, you’ll find vast salt flats, russet-colored lunar-like ridges and topaz lakes sparkling against a backdrop of soaring mountain peaks. Given the great variety on offer, you’d need at least a week to properly see this vast reserve, which encompasses seven geographically distinct sectors south, east and west of San Pedro de Atacama.
1Sights
Laguna CejarLAKE
(CH$10,000-15,000; h9am-5pm)
San Pedro has its own mini version of the Dead Sea, a mere 22km south of the village. This topaz-colored lake allows you to float effortlessly because of its high salt content – a fine place to contemplate the mountainous horizon. Cejar is just one of three lakes here, the other two (Laguna Piedra and Laguna Baltinache) do not allow bathing, though you can often see flamingos feeding here.
The price is CH$10,000 in the morning, then jumps to CH$15,000 from 2pm onward. There are showers and change rooms, though you’ll need to bring your own towels and other essentials.
Quebrada de JereGORGE
(CH$2000; h8am-8pm)
A patch of green among the desert landscape, this long, narrow gorge is a favorite for hikers, swimmers and rock climbers.
Laguna ChaxaLAKE
(CH$2500; h8am-8pm)
The jagged crust of the Salar de Atacama looks for all the world like God went crazy with a stippling brush. But in the midst of these rough lifeless crystals is an oasis of activity: the pungent Laguna Chaxa, about 25km southwest of Toconao and 65km from San Pedro, the Reserva Nacional Los Flamencos’s most easily accessible flamingo-breeding site.
Three of the five known species (James, Chilean and Andean) can be spotted at this salt lake, as well as plovers, coots and ducks: bring zoom lenses and snappy reflexes. Sunrise is feeding time for the birds, though the park doesn’t open until 8am. It’s also gorgeous at sunset.
Valle de la LunaNATURAL FEATURE
(CH$3000; h9am-6pm)
Watching the sun set from the exquisite Valley of the Moon is an unforgettable experience. From atop a giant sand dune, you can drink in spectacular views as the sun slips below the horizon and a beautiful transformation occurs: the distant ring of volcanoes, rippling Cordillera de la Sal and surreal lunar landscapes of the valley are suddenly suffused with intense purples, pinks and golds.
The Valle de la Luna is named after its lunar-like landforms eroded by eons of flood and wind. It’s 15km west of San Pedro de Atacama at the northern end of the Cordillera de la Sal and forms part of Reserva Nacional Los Flamencos.
The valley is San Pedro’s most popular and cheapest organized tour; trips typically depart about 4pm, leaving good time to explore before sunset. If you want to avoid dozens of tourist vans, all making the same stops, pick an alternative time. Some hardy souls come here at dawn to sidestep the sunset crowds.
Aside from watching the sunset, the valley has various walks that take in wild geological formations and even caverns (bring a torch).
It’s easy to get there by car (no 4WD needed). Mountain biking is a great way to get here, but keep to the roads and trails, and make sure you have lights and reflective gear if you’re staying for the sunset. Park only on the shoulder or at other designated areas – do not tear up the fragile desert with tire tracks.
Laguna MiñiquesLAKE
(incl entrance to Laguna Miscanti CH$3000; h9am-6pm)
The smaller of two dramatic alpine lakes, the shimmering blue surface of Miñiques looks all the more stunning against a backdrop of chiseled snow-covered peaks.
SocaireVILLAGE
Home to less than 500 residents, this tiny traditional village is famous for its traditional church. You can browse locally made handicrafts.
Laguna MiscantiLAKE
(incl entrance to Laguna Miñiques CH$3000; h9am-6pm)
A glittery blue sweet-water lake overlooked by snowcapped volcanoes.
8Getting There & Away
There’s no public transportation in the area. Most visitors come on organized tours from San Pedro, but if you have a car you can visit on your own and avoid the heavy crowds.
El Tatio Geysers
Visiting the world-famous El Tatio Geysers (CH$10,000; h6am-6pm) at dawn is like walking through a gigantic steam bath, ringed by volcanoes and fed by 64 gurgling geysers and a hundred gassy fumaroles. Swirling columns of steam envelop onlookers in a Dantesque vision, and the soundtrack of bubbling, spurting and hissing sounds like a field of merrily boiling kettles. The experience does not feel like bathtime, however: unless it’s bathtime in the arctic. Most visitors find themselves wishing the geysers would spread their heat more efficiently during the freezing dawn.
At 4300m above sea level, El Tatio is the world’s highest geyser field. The sight of its steaming fumaroles in the azure clarity of the altiplano is unforgettable, and the mineral structures that form as the boiling water evaporates are strikingly beautiful. As dawn wears on, shafts of sunlight crown the surrounding volcanoes and illuminate the writhing steam.
Watch your step – in some places, visitors have fallen through the thin crust into underlying pools of scalding water and suffered severe burns. Dress in layers: it’s toe-numbingly cold at sunrise but you’ll bake in the van on the way back down.
The geysers are 95km north of San Pedro de Atacama. Administration of the geysers was handed over to indigenous Atacameño people in 2004. You’ll need to stop to pay the entrance fee (CH$10,000) at the site’s administrative kiosk, about 2km before the geysers.
If driving, leave San Pedro no later than 4am to reach the geysers by sunrise. The route north is signed from San Pedro, but some drivers prefer to follow tour minibuses in the dark (the bus drivers do not appreciate this, however). This is a rough road and a 4WD is recommended, though check the latest driving conditions with the tourist office if you’re thinking of driving a smaller car.
If you rented a vehicle in Calama, consider returning via the picturesque villages of Caspana and Chiu Chiu rather than via San Pedro. Some tours from Calama and San Pedro take this route as well.
Calama
%055 / POP 148,000 / ELEV 2250M
It may appear drab and gritty but Calama happens to be the pride and joy of northern Chile, an economic powerhouse that pumps truckloads of copper money into the Chilean economy year on year. And while it holds little attraction for visitors – most people will only stop here for the night (if they have to) on their way to the la-la land of San Pedro de Atacama – there is a visceral appeal to this mining town that definitely goes that extra mile in ‘keeping it real.’
Calama sits on the north bank of the Río Loa. Though the city has sprawled with the influx of laborers from Chuquicamata, its central core is still pedestrian friendly. Calle Ramírez begins in an attractive pedestrian mall leading to the shady Plaza 23 de Marzo, which bristles with market stalls and pigeons.
4Sleeping
Hostería CalamaHOTEL$
(%55-234-2033; www.hosteriacalama.cl; Latorre 1521; s/d/tr from CH$45,000/52,000/60,000; piW)
Calama’s fanciest downtown hotel features spacious carpeted rooms decked out in a classic style, some with leafy views. It has all the conveniences of an upscale hotel, including a gym, restaurant and patio. Front rooms are noisy, but have tree-shaded balconies.
Hotel AtenasHOTEL$
(%55-234-2666; Ramírez 1961; s/d CH$20,000/25,000; W)
A dark warren of rooms right off the pedestrian mall, the Atenas is the best of Calama’s rock-bottom choices, with spacious clean bathrooms and a good location.
Hotel AnpaymiHOTEL$$
(%55-234-2325; www.hotelanpaymi.cl; Sotomayor 1980; s/d CH$35,000/45,000; W)
A surprisingly tranquil option in a busy downtown location. Doubles are good value, with wooden floors, spacious layouts and tiny bathrooms. Singles are cramped but adequate.
Hotel El MiradorHOTEL$$
(%55-234-0329; www.hotelmirador.cl; Sotomayor 2064; s/d from CH$45,000/55,000; pW)
This historic hotel fronted by an octagonal tower has colonial-style rooms with a pleasant grandmotherly vibe and small bathrooms, all set around a sun-splashed patio. The sitting room has old photos of Calama.
5Eating & Drinking
Mercado CentralMARKET$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Latorre; set meals CH$3500)
For quick filling eats, take advantage of the cocinerías (greasy spoons) in this busy little market between Ramírez and Vargas.
BavaroCHILEAN$$
(Sotomayor 2095; mains CH$5500-11,000; h8:30am-11pm Mon-Fri, 10am-11pm Sat, noon-10pm Sun; W)
Part of a chain that covers pretty much all northern Chile, this place still has rustic charm and serves up a good variety of meat dishes and seafood. The attached cafeteria downstairs has slightly less expensive set meals.
Pasión PeruanaPERUVIAN$$
(cnr Abaroa & Ramirez; mains CH$9000-14,000; hnoon-11pm Mon-Sat, to 6pm Sun)
One of Calama’s top dining spots, this great catch-all place serves up a variety of Peruvian and Chilean fare. It’s on one edge of the plaza.
Maracaibo CafeCAFE
(Latorre, near Mackenna; h10am-9pm Mon-Fri)
A charming sun-filled cafe with Venezuelan soul (and delicious arepas) located in a small shopping complex. Stop for strong coffee, dessert and filling lunch specials (CH$5000 to CH$6000).
8Information
Several banks with ATMs are in the city center, some also change currency.
Hospital Carlos Cisternas (%55-265-5721; http://hospitalcalama.gob.cl; Carlos Cisternas 2253) Five blocks north of Plaza 23 de Marzo.
8Getting There & Around
AIR
Aeropuerto El Loa (%55-234-4897; www.cacsa.cl) is 7km south of Calama. Private cabs from the airport charge CH$5700; minibus transfers cost CH$3500 per person to drop you at your hotel. Taxis (CH$28,000 to CH$40,000) will drive tourists to San Pedro de Atacama but it’s cheaper to arrange for a transfer ahead of time (CH$15,000 to CH$20,000); try Transfer Lincancabur (%55-254-3426). There’s also direct bus service several times a day from Calama airport to San Pedro with Tour Magic (per person CH$8000, 1½ hours).
LATAM (%600-526-2000; www.latam.com; Latorre 1726; h9am-1pm & 3-6:30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat) flies to Santiago (from CH$75,000, two hours) several times daily.
Sky (%600-600-2828; www.skyairline.cl) also has flights to Santiago (from CH$50,000).
BUS
Bus companies are scattered throughout the town but mostly concentrated along Av Balmaceda and Antofagasta. Major companies include Condor Bus/Flota Barrios (%55-234-5883; www.condorbus.cl; Av Balmaceda 1852) and Expreso Norte (%55-255-6845; www.expresonorte.cl; Balmaceda 1902). Those with bus services northbound and southbound on the Panamericana include the following.
| DESTINATION | COST (CH$) | HOURS |
|---|---|---|
| Antofagasta | 6000 | 3 |
| Arica | 15,000 | 10 |
| Iquique | 13,000 | 7 |
| La Serena | 23,000 | 14 |
| Santiago | 32,000 | 22 |
Tur Bus (%55-268-8812; www.turbus.cl; Ramírez 1852) provides regular services to San Pedro de Atacama (CH$3000 to CH$4000, 1½ hours) from the main Terminal de Calama (Av Granaderos 3051). Buses Frontera (%55-282-4269; Antofagasta 2046) also has daily buses to San Pedro (CH$3000, 1½ hours, three daily) as does Buses Atacama 2000 (%9-7403-2022; Abaroa 2106).
International buses are invariably full, so reserve as far in advance as possible. To get to Uyuni, Bolivia (CH$12,000, nine hours) via Ollagüe (CH$9000, three hours), ask at Frontera and Buses Atacama 2000; services go only several times per week so buy ahead.
Service to Salta and Jujuy, Argentina, is provided by Pullman (%55-234-1282; www.pullmanbus.cl; Balmaceda 1974) on Monday, Wednesday and Friday mornings at 8am (CH$35,300, 12 hours), and by Géminis (%55-289-2050; www.geminis.cl; Antofagasta 2239) on Tuesday, Friday and Sunday at 7:30am (CH$35,000). Buy tickets in advance during the high summer season.
CAR
Car-rental agencies include Hertz (%55-234-1380; Parque Apiac, Sitio 3c; h8am-7pm Mon-Fri) and Avis (%55-279-3968; Aeropuerto El Loa; h8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-8pm Sat, 9am-7pm Sun); daily rates start at CH$28,000.
Fill up the tank in Calama, as the lone gas station in San Pedro charges a fortune. To visit the geysers at El Tatio, rent a 4WD or pickup truck; ordinary cars lack sufficient clearance for the area’s rugged roads and river fords.
Chuquicamata
Slag heaps as big as mountains, a chasm deeper than the deepest lake in the USA, and trucks the size of houses: these are some of the mind-boggling dimensions that bring visitors to gawp into the mine of Chuquicamata (or just Chuqui). This awesome abyss, gouged from the desert earth 16km north of Calama, is one of the world’s largest open-pit copper mines.
Chuqui was, until recently, the world’s largest single supplier of copper (a title just snatched by Mina Escondida, 170km southeast of Antofagasta), producing a startling 630,000 tonnes annually. It’s largely thanks to Chuqui, then, that Chile is the world’s greatest copper producer. In total, copper now accounts for around one-third of Chilean exports. And with the price of copper shooting up in recent years (courtesy of huge demand in China and India) its importance to the Chilean economy is hard to overestimate.
The mine, which employs 20,000 workers, spews up a perpetual plume of dust visible for many kilometers in the cloudless desert, but then everything here dwarfs the human scale. The elliptical pit measures an incredible 8 million sq meters and has a depth of up to 1250m. Most of the ‘tour’ is spent simply gazing into its depths and clambering around an enormous mining truck with tires more than 3m high; information is minimal, although the bilingual guide answers questions.
Chuquicamata was once integrated with a well-ordered company town, but environmental problems and copper reserves beneath the town forced the entire population to relocate to Calama by 2007. The ‘city of Chiquicamata’ is not much more than a ghost town these days.
History
Prospectors first hit the jackpot at Chuquicamata in 1911. However, they were soon muscled out by the big boys, otherwise known as the US Anaconda Copper Mining Company, from Montana. In the blink of an eye, the company created a fully functioning mining town, with rudimentary housing, schools, cinemas, shops and a hospital, although labor unrest became rife and resentment toward the corporation snowballed. By the 1960s Chile’s three largest mines (all run by Anaconda) accounted for more than 80% of Chile’s copper production, 60% of total exports and 80% of tax revenues. Despite coughing up elevated taxes, Anaconda was a sitting duck for the champions of nationalization.
During the government of President Eduardo Frei Montalva in the late 1960s, Chile gained a majority shareholding in the Chilean assets of Anaconda and Kennecott. In 1971 Congress approved the full nationalization of the industry.
CHUQUI THROUGH THE EYES OF CHE
Over 50 years ago, when it was already a mine of monstrous proportions, Chuquicamata was visited by a youthful Ernesto ‘Che’ Guevara. The future revolutionary and his traveling buddy Alberto Granado were midway through their iconic trip across South America, immortalized in Che’s Motorcycle Diaries. An encounter with a communist during his journey to Chuqui is generally acknowledged as a turning point in Che’s emergent politics. So it’s especially interesting to read his subsequent memories of the mine itself (then in gringo hands). In one vivid paragraph, the wandering medical student writes of such mines: ‘…spiced as they would be with the inevitable human lives – the lives of the poor, unsung heroes of this battle, who die miserably in one of the thousand traps set by nature to defend its treasures, when all they want is to earn their daily bread.’
In a footnote to this much-analyzed encounter, the ‘blond, efficient and arrogant managers’ gruffly told the travelers that Chuquicamata ‘isn’t a tourist town.’ Well, these days it receives around 40,000 visitors per year.
TTours
CodelcoTOURS
(%55-232-2122; visitas@codelco.cl; cnr Avs Granaderos & Central Sur, Calama; tour by donation; hbookings 9am-5pm Mon-Fri)
Arrange visits through Codelco by phone or email. Tours (minimum age eight) run on weekdays, in English and Spanish. Report to the Oficina on the corner of Avs Granaderos and Central Sur 15 minutes before your tour; bring identification.
The two-hour tour begins at 1pm. Wear sturdy closed-toe shoes (no sandals), long pants and long sleeves. The tour ends around 4:30pm.
Tours are limited to 40, but it occasionally adds a second bus. Demand is high from January to March and in July and August, so book at least a week ahead.
8Getting There & Away
From Calama, Codelco has a free shuttle that picks people up at its Oficina, roughly 3km north of the Plaza 23 de Marzo. You must be there at 12:45pm. To get to the pickup point, take a taxi colectivo (shared taxi; CH$700, 15 minutes) – look for 5, 65, 11 or 17 – from Latorre, or hop on the micro (small bus) D (CH$500).
Antofagasta
%055 / POP 390,000
Chile’s second-largest city is a rough-and-ready jumble of one-way streets, modern mall culture and work-wearied urbanites. As such, this sprawling port city tends not to tickle the fancy of passing travelers, who often choose to leapfrog over Antofagasta en route north to San Pedro de Atacama or south to Copiapó.
However, Antofagasta is not all high-rise concrete and gridlocked streets. The old-fashioned plaza is a pleasure to kick back in, and evidence of the golden nitrate era can be found in the wooden-fronted Victorian and Georgian buildings of the coastal Barrio Histórico. Ancient spindly muelles (piers) molder picturesquely along the grubby guano-stained port.
The port here handles most of the minerals from the Atacama, especially the copper from Chuquicamata, and is still a major import-export node for Bolivia, which lost the region to Chile during the War of the Pacific.
1Sights
Ruinas de HuanchacaHISTORIC SITE
(%55-241-7860; http://ruinasdehuanchaca.cl; Ave Angamos 01606; museum adult/child CH$2000/1000; h10am-1pm & 2:30-7pm Tue-Sun)
What at first glance looks like the ruins from some ancient indigenous settlement in fact dates only from the turn of the 20th century. Created by Bolivian Hunachaca Company (one of the richest silver-mining operations of the late 1800s), the site was used as a foundry and refinery for raw material shipped in from the Pulacayo mine in Bolivia, and once employed more than 1000 workers. You can take photos of the ruins, but are not allowed to enter.
The small museum in front of the site has exhibits on natural history, mining and indigenous culture, as well as a four-wheeled vehicle dubbed ‘Nomad’ (an early prototype for the Mars Rover) thrown in for good measure. To get there take bus 102 or 103 from the center to Calle Sangra (CH$500).
Monumento Natural La PortadaVIEWPOINT
(hmuseum 10:30am-1:30pm & 3-5:30pm Sat & Sun) F
While not in Antofagasta proper, but rather 22km north of the city, this enormous offshore arch – the centerpiece of a 31-hectare protected zone – is the most spectacular of the area’s sights. Topped by marine sediments and supported by a sturdy volcanic base, the stack has been eroded into a natural arch by the stormy Pacific. It’s situated on a short westbound lateral off the highway; there’s a small Conaf-managed museum and cliff-top views over surrounding beaches.
To get there, take a Mejillones-bound bus operated by Megatur (www.megatur.cl; Latorre 2748) to the junction at La Portada. From there, you’ll have to walk 2km west or catch an onward bus – these run only in the busy months of January and February.
Centro Cultural Estación AntofagastaCULTURAL CENTER
(www.facebook.com/centro.cultural.estacion.antofagasta; Bolívar 280; h10am-2pm & 3-7pm Mon-Sat) F
One block from the waterfront, this handsomely designed space is worth visiting for its intriguing exhibitions – which don’t shy away from challenging topics such as immigration and national identity. The center also hosts free weekly yoga sessions, film screenings and other events.
Biblioteca Regional de AntofagastaLIBRARY
(www.bibliotecaregionalantofagasta.cl; Jorge Washington 2623; h10am-8pm Tue-Fri, to 2pm Sat & Sun) F
Antofagasta’s pride and joy is this thoughtfully designed library (opened in 2013) inside a landmark building facing Plaza Colón. The library hosts changing art exhibitions, and there’s a good cafe in the back.
Terminal PesqueroMARKET
(h9am-6pm)
A few blubbery male sea lions, snorting loudly and occasionally snapping at unwary pelicans, circle hopefully below Antofagasta’s busy fish market, just north of the Port Authority. Inside, you’ll find a dozen or so stalls serving up hearty seafood soups, ceviche and fried fish.
Barrio HistóricoAREA
British flavor prevails in the 19th-century Barrio Histórico, between the plaza and the old port, where handsome Victorian and Georgian buildings still stand. On Bolívar, the bottle-green-colored train station (1887) is the restored terminus of the Antofagasta–La Paz railway. It’s closed to the public but you can see several old engines and British-style telephone boxes through the western railings.
Plaza ColónPLAZA
The British community left a visible imprint on Antofagasta’s beautiful 19th-century Plaza Colón, which sports rushing fountains amid its palms, mimosas and bougainvilleas. The cute Torre Reloj MAP GOOGLE MAP is a replica of London’s Big Ben; its chimes even have a baby Big Ben ring to them, and tiled British and Chilean flags intertwine on its trunk.
Museo RegionalMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.museodeantofagasta.cl; cnr Av Balmaceda & Bolívar; h9am-5pm Tue-Fri, 11am-2pm Sat & Sun) F
The former Aduana (customs house) now houses this two-floor museum, which has well-presented displays on natural history, and prehistoric and cultural development. Artifacts include models of indigenous rafts (made from the inflated hides of sea lions), a deformed skull, early colonial tidbits and paraphernalia from the nitrate era.
Resguardo MarítimoHISTORIC BUILDING
This handsome building with wooden balustrades, built in 1910 as the coast guard, sits at the entrance to the newly restored Muelle Salitrero (Nitrate Pier), where glassed-in sections allow glimpses of the old piles beneath the walkway. A wrought-iron passageway links the building to the former Gobernación Marítima.
4Sleeping
Hotel FronteraHOTEL$
(%55-228-1219; Bolívar 558; s/d CH$24,000/27,000, without bathroom CH$16,000/22,000; W)
Behind the modern-looking front is a set of basic rooms, each complete with cable TV. No breakfast is included or available but at least there’s wi-fi.
Hotel MarinaHOTEL$$
(%55-222-4423; www.hotelmarina.cl; La Cañada 15; s/d CH$45,000/53,000; pW)
Near the Terminal Pesquero, this high-rise hotel feels like a peaceful retreat from the big-city bustle. Rooms are spacious and well equipped, and the best have balconies with waterfront views. There’s a good restaurant here and a small beach just a short stroll from the hotel.
Hotel LicantayHOTEL$$
(%55-228-0885; www.licantay.cl; 14 de Febrero 2134; r CH$43,000-68,000; W)
This friendly small-scale hotel has bright, cheerfully painted rooms with wood furnishings and artwork on the walls. Everything is meticulously clean. On the downside, the bathrooms are tiny in the less expensive rooms. It’s 1½ blocks southwest of the Mercado Central.
Hotel PaolaHOTEL$$
(%55-226-8989; www.hotelpaola.cl; Matta 2469; s/d CH$40,000/50,000; W)
One of the more appealing options in the center, the Paola sports a white marble hallway, a contemporary look, an inner patio on the 3rd floor and five floors of rooms featuring hardwood floors, fridges and ample closet space. Some rooms lack exterior windows.
It’s set on a lively pedestrian lane half a block from the city’s big Mercado Central.
Hotel Ancla InnHOTEL$$
(%55-235-7400; www.anclainn.cl; Baquedano 516; s CH$33,000-39,000, d CH$43,000-49,000; pW)
Central location, friendly staff and well-equipped rooms make this a good choice, behind a funny chalet-like facade. The standard rooms are often booked up by miners, while pricier executive rooms come with wi-fi, fridge and more space.
5Eating
Letras y MusicaCAFE$
(Jorge Washington 2623; sandwiches around CH$3000; h10am-8pm Tue-Fri, to 2pm Sat & Sun; W)
Across from the plaza, Antofogasta’s beautifully designed public library has a charming cafe tucked in the back. Stop in for sandwiches, changing lunch specials (CH$4500), juices and desserts. Unfortunately, the coffee isn’t a selling point.
Marisquería D&DSEAFOOD$
(Terminal Pesquero; mains CH$3000-6000; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat & Sun)
Inside the fish market, this eatery draws crowds for its tasty fish sandwiches, fried fish platters and paila marina (seafood soup). Grab a seat and tuck into the seafood delights.
BongoDINER$
(Baquedano 743; mains CH$2100-3900; h9am-11pm Mon-Sat)
Buzzy eatery with cushioned booths, a tidy mezzanine above and a good-and-greasy menu for those times when only a draft beer and burger – preferably with palta (avocado) – will do. Place your order at the counter and pay before you sit down.
oCafe del SolCHILEAN$$
(www.cafedelsolchile.com; Esmeralda 2013; set lunch CH$4000, mains CH$8000-13,000; h1-4pm)
On weekend nights, this ramshackle corner resto-bar comes alive with live Andean music and dancing (CH$3000 cover after 11pm). Other nights, it serves a good range of mains in the cozy wooden interior with dim lighting.
Tio JacintoCHILEAN$$$
(%55-222-8486; http://tiojacinto.cl; Uribe 922; CH$12,800-15,000; hnoon-4pm & 8-10:30pm Mon-Fri, noon-4pm Sat & Sun)
One of Antofogasta’s best places for a meal, the family-run Tio Jacinto serves mouth-watering plates of locos (Chilean abalone), erizos (sea urchin) and jaiba (crab), which are fine preludes to the perfectly grilled fish. Good service and a decent wine and beer list. Reserve ahead.
8Information
Numerous ATMs are located downtown.
Conaf (%55-238-3320; Av Argentina 2510; h8:30am-1:30pm & 3-5:30pm Mon-Thu, 8:30am-1:30pm & 3-4:15pm Fri) Information on the region’s natural attractions.
Sernatur (%55-245-1818; Arturo Prat 384; h8:30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat) The city tourist office is conveniently located by the plaza. Has lots of brochures.
Hospital Regional (%55-265-6602; Av Argentina 1962)
8Getting There & Around
AIR
Antofagasta’s Aeropuerto Cerro Moreno is 25km north of the city. Private taxis cost CH$15,000; try calling Gran Via (%55-224-0505).
LATAM (%600-526-2000; www.latam.com; Arturo Prat 445; h9am-6:15pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat) has several daily flights to Santiago (from CH$60,000, two hours), as well as one weekly direct flight to La Serena (from CH$40,000, 1½ hours, Sunday), and one weekly direct flight to Lima, Peru (CH$460,000, three hours, Saturday).
Sky (%600-600-2828; www.skyairline.cl) flies to Santiago (daily from CH$60,000, two hours) and La Serena (from CH$58,000), plus one weekly flight to Concepción (from CH$60,000, 2¼ hours, Friday).
Bolivian airline Amaszonas (www.amaszonas.com) flies to Copiapó (CH$65,000, one hour), as well as to Iquique (CH$55,000, 45 minutes), from where you can connect to onward flights to Cochabamba, Bolivia or Asunción, Paraguay.
BUS
Terminal de Buses Cardenal Carlos Oviedo (%55-248-4502; Av Pedro Aguirre Cerda 5750) serves most intercity destinations. It’s about 4km north of the center (reachable by bus 111, 103, 119 or 108). Here you’ll find operators like Condor/Flota Barrios (%55-223-4626; www.condorbus.cl). A few major long-distance bus companies, including Tur Bus (%55-222-0240; www.turbus.cl; Latorre 2751) and Pullman Bus (www.pullmanbus.com; Latorre 2805),operate also out of their own terminals near downtown.
Nearly all northbound services now use coastal Ruta 1, via Tocopilla, en route to Iquique and Arica.
| DESTINATION | COST (CH$) | HOURS |
|---|---|---|
| Arica | 12,000 | 9 |
| Calama | 5000 | 3 |
| Copiapó | 10,000 | 9 |
| Iquique | 10,000 | 6 |
| La Serena | 15,000 | 12 |
| Santiago | 23,000 | 18 |
CAR
Car rental is available from Europcar (%55-257-8160; www.europcar.cl; Panamericana Hotel, Blamaceda 2575; h8:30am-1:30pm & 3-6:30pm Mon-Fri) and First (%55-222-5777; www.firstrentacar.cl; Bolívar 623), 3½ blocks southeast of Plaza Colón.
South of Antofagasta
The Panamericana south of Antofagasta continues its trip through the dry Atacama Desert, where water, people and tourist attractions are scarce.
Long-haul buses travel between major towns, though to properly explore the region, you’ll need your own wheels.
1Sights
Cerro Paranal ObservatoryOBSERVATORY
(%cell 9-9839-5312; www.eso.org; off Ruta 710)
In the world of high-powered telescopes, where rival institutes jostle to claim the ‘biggest,’ ‘most powerful’ or ‘most technologically advanced’ specimens, Paranal is right up there with the big boys. This groundbreaking observatory has a Very Large Telescope (VLT) consisting of an array of four 8.2m telescopes – for a time at least, the most powerful optical array in the world.
The Cerro Paranal Observatory is run by the European Southern Observatory (ESO), and is so futuristic-looking that portions of the James Bond flick Quantum of Solace were filmed here. There’s a hotel for scientists on-site, which looks like it is built underground; you’ll enter the foliage-filled lobby as part of the tour. The observatory complex is situated on Cerro Paranal at 2664m above sea level, 120km south of Antofagasta; a lateral leaves the Panamericana just north of the Mano del Desierto (assuming you’re heading south). The drive from Antofagasta takes about two hours.
The fascinating free visits are allowed on Saturdays, at 10am and 2pm. You must show up half an hour early; tours last two hours. You’ll need to schedule months in advance (reservations are only accepted through the website), and you’ll also need your own vehicle to get there. Check the observatory’s website for details and updates.
Mano del DesiertoSCULPTURE
Located roughly 70km south of Antofagasta, this soaring granite hand stretches up from beneath the desert earth, like some ancient vestige of a long-buried titan. Chilean sculptor Mario Irarrázaval created the 11m-high work, which was unveiled in 1992.
It lies about 45km south of the junction of the Panamericana and Ruta 28. Bus travelers should look to the west side of the highway.
4Sleeping & Eating
Hotel Mi TampiHOTEL$
(%55-261-3605; www.hotelmitampi.cl; O’Higgins 138, Taltal; s/d CH$40,000/50,000; pW)
On a quiet street just a short stroll from the waterfront, this cheerful little guesthouse has spacious rooms with firm beds set around a leafy patio. Reserve ahead.
Club Social TaltalCHILEAN$$
(%55-261-1064; Torreblanca 162, Taltal; mains CH$8000-12,000; hnoon-11pm Mon-Sat)
Just a half block from the plaza (toward the waterfront), this is the old British social club, offering great seasonal seafood and friendly service.
Iquique
%057 / POP 192,000
Barefoot surfers, paragliding pros, casino snobs and frenzied merchants all cross paths in the rather disarming city of Iquique. Located in a golden crescent of coastline, this city is counted among Chile’s premier beach resorts, with a glitzy casino, beachfront boardwalk and more activities (from paragliding to sand-boarding) than any sane person can take on in a week. The big draw here is the swaths of pitch-perfect beach, which offer some of the best surfing around.
Refurbished Georgian-style architecture from the 19th-century mining boom is well preserved, and the Baquedano pedestrian strip sports charming wooden sidewalks. Iquique’s main claim, however, is its duty-free status, with a chaotic duty-free shopping zone (zona franca).
The city, 1853km north of Santiago and 315km south of Arica, is squeezed between the ocean and the desolate brown coastal range rising abruptly some 600m behind it.
History
The lifeless pampas around Iquique is peppered with the geoglyphs of ancient indigenous groups, and the shelf where the city now lies was frequented by the coastal Chango peoples. However, the Iquique area was first put on the map during the colonial era, when silver was discovered at Huantajaya.
During the 19th century, narrow-gauge railways shipped minerals and nitrates through Iquique. Mining barons built opulent mansions, piped in water from the distant cordillera and imported topsoil for lavish gardens. Downtown Iquique reflects this 19th-century nitrate boom, and the corroding shells of nearby ghost towns such as Humberstone and Santa Laura whisper of the source of this wealth.
After the nitrate bust, Iquique reinvented itself primarily as a fishing port, shipping more fish meal than any other port in the world. However, it was the establishment of the zona franca in 1975 that made this one of Chile’s most prosperous cities.
1Sights
Museo Corbeta EsmeraldaMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.museoesmeralda.cl; Paseo Almirante Lynch; CH$3500; h10am-12:15pm & 2-5pm Tue-Sun)
This replica of the sunken Esmeralda, a plucky little Chilean corvette that challenged ironclad Peruvian warships in the War of the Pacific, is Iquique’s new pride and glory. The original ship was captained by Arturo Prat (1848–79), whose name now graces a hundred street maps, plazas and institutions. Guided tours (reserve ahead for a tour in English) take you inside the staff quarters, past the orange-lit engine, and on to the ship’s deck.
Book ahead or come on Sunday when it is first-come, first-served.
Casino EspañolHISTORIC BUILDING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %57-276-0630; www.casinoespanoliquique.cl; Plaza Prat 584; hrestaurant 1-4pm & 8-11pm Tue-Sat)
The prize for the showiest building in Iquique goes to this Moorish-style place from 1904, on the plaza’s northeast corner. The gaudily tiled creation is now a club and restaurant. Go at meal times for a look at the interior with its dazzling tile work, coffered ceilings and fanciful murals.
Centro Cultural Palacio AstorecaHISTORIC BUILDING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; O’Higgins 350; h10am-2pm & 3-6pm Tue-Fri, 11am-2pm Sat) F
Originally built for a nitrate tycoon, this 1904 Georgian-style mansion is now a cultural center, which exhibits contemporary work produced by local artists. It has a fantastic interior of opulent rooms with elaborate woodwork and high ceilings, massive chandeliers, a gigantic billiard table and balconies.
Museo RegionalMUSEUM
(Baquedano 951; h9am-6pm Tue-Thu, to 5pm Fri, 10am-2pm Sat) F
Iquique’s former courthouse now hosts the catch-all regional museum, which earnestly re-creates a traditional adobe altiplano village and also exhibits masked Chinchorro mummies and elongated skulls. Photographs explore Iquique’s urban beginnings, and a fascinating display dissects the nitrate industry.
Muelle de PasajerosBAY
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Mue; boat ride adult/child CH$3500/1500; h10am-5pm)
Hour-long boat tours around the harbor leave from Iquique’s 1901 passenger pier, just west of the Edificio de la Aduana. The tour floats past the Boya Conmemorativa del Combate de Iquique, a buoy marking the spot where the Esmeralda sank in a confrontation with the ironclad Peruvian Huáscar. It also approaches a colony of sea lions.
Tours depart when enough people (typically eight) show up. Go on a weekend around 11am or noon for the least amount of waiting around.
Plaza PratPLAZA
The city’s 19th-century swagger is hard to miss on Iquique’s central square. Pride of place goes to the 1877 Torre Reloj clock tower, seemingly baked and sugar-frosted rather than built. Jumping fountains line the walkway south to the marble-stepped Teatro Municipal, a neoclassical building that has been hosting opera and theater since 1890. A handsomely restored tram (Baquedano btwn Tarapaca & Thompson) sits outside and occasionally jerks its way down Av Baquedano in high season.
Museo NavalMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Esmeralda 250) F
Take in the artifacts salvaged from the sunken Esmeralda at this small museum inside the haughty colonial-style customs house, built in 1871 when Iquique was still Peruvian territory. Peru incarcerated prisoners here during the War of the Pacific, and the building would later see battle in the Chilean civil war of 1891. It’s currently closed for long-term renovations.
2Activities
Bloque AndinoCLIMBING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %cell 9-6735-3127; www.facebook.com/tallerescatarapaca; Ramirez 714; CH$500)
Hidden on a back patio just off Ramirez, you’ll find a small bouldering wall, where local climbers practice their skills. A friendly, welcoming group runs it, and you can stop in for free-climbing or a class (there are also circus arts on offer), held at different times throughout the week. Check the Facebook page for times.
Puro VueloADVENTURE SPORTS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %57-231-1127; www.purovuelo.cl; Baquedano 1059; h10am-8pm)
A well-run outfit that specializes in paragliding, it charges CH$45,000 for a tandem flight, with photos included. As with most paragliding jaunts in Iquique, this includes pickup at your hotel, brief instruction and at least 20 minutes of flying time (up to 40 minutes in good conditions). Prices drop by about 10% in low season, between April and November.
Playa CavanchaBEACH
Iquique’s most popular beach is worth visiting for swimming and body-boarding. Surfing and body-boarding are best in winter, when swells come from the north, but are possible year-round. There’s less competition for early-morning breaks at the north end of Playa Cavancha.
VerticalSURFING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %57-237-6031; Av Arturo Prat 580)
This is Iquique’s surfer central, which sells and rents equipment. Wetsuit and board will set you back CH$12,000 for two hours; one or the other only costs CH$8000. Private lessons start at CH$24,000 for 1½ hours, and it runs surf trips outside the city and sand-boarding trips to Cerro Dragón (CH$25,000 for three hours).
CCourses & Tours
Academia de Idiomas del NorteLANGUAGE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %57-241-1827; www.languages.cl; Ramírez 1345; h8am-10pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat)
The Swiss-run Academia de Idiomas del Norte provides Spanish-language instruction. Classes are small (one to four students) and cost CH$315,000 to CH$400,000 per week, depending on intensity.
Mistico OutdoorsOUTDOORS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %cell 9-9541-7762; www.chileresponsibleadventure.com; Eleuterio Ramírez 1535; full-day tour from CH$61,000)
This small outfitter has a solid reputation for its customized tours and excursions, ranging from half a day to three weeks. Among the offerings: six-day trips in Parque Nacional Lauca, 10-day climbing trips to Ojos del Salado and full-day trips to Altos de Pica. Reserve at least four days in advance.
Boat RidesBOATING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; adult/child CH$3500/1500, minimum 8 passengers; h10am-5pm)
For nautical adventures, try the hour-long boat tours from Iquique’s 1901 passenger pier just west of the Aduana. They pass by the commemorative buoy marking the spot where the Esmeralda sank and also approach a colony of sea lions.
Magical Tour ChileTOURS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %57-276-3474; www.magicaltour.cl; Baquedano 997; per person Ruta del Sol CH$21,000, Aventura Isluga CH$44,000; h10:30am-8pm Mon-Sat)
Offers the full range of trips, including one full-day Ruta del Sol excursion to the Gigante de Atacama geogliph, Humberstone ghost town and Pica Oasis. Other trips take you to geysers (Aventura Isluga) and photogenic lakes in the altiplano.
Show TravelADVENTURE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %cell 9-7367-0517; www.showtravel.cl; Baquedano 1035; h9:30am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10:30am-5pm Sat)
In addition to the usual tours, this is a good bet for active trips to places off the beaten track, including the El Huarango eco-camp near La Tirana.
zFestivals & Events
Héroes de MayoSURFING
(hmid-May)
One of Chile’s biggest surf events.
4Sleeping
Virgilio B&BGUESTHOUSE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %cell 9-7513-8035; saavedra.ivan@hotmail.fr; Libertad 825; dm/s/d without bathroom CH$14,000/18,000/33,000; W)
In a good location within easy strolling distance of the beach, this small, welcoming guesthouse has tidy rooms, a roofed-in front terrace and a lounge where you can relax after a day of exploring. Keep in mind that the cheapest rooms are quite small and none of the rooms have private bathrooms.
Backpacker’s Hostel IquiqueHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %cell 9-6172-6788; www.hosteliquique.com; Amunátegui 2075; dm CH$10,000, d CH$35,000, s/d/tr without bathroom CH$18,000/27,000/36,000; W)
One of Iquique’s best budget options, this buzzing hostel has much to recommend: nicely outfitted rooms, friendly staff and a great location near Playa Cavancha. There’s a cafe-bar and small front terrace where you can meet other travelers. The hostel also organizes activities and excursions (sand-boarding, paragliding, surf lessons).
Plaza KilanturHOTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %57-241-7172; Baquedano 1025; s/d CH$25,000/35,000; W)
One of the best deals in its category, this Georgian-style building fronts on to the pedestrian strip. There is a welcoming lobby with a big skylight and comfortable, medium-sized rooms arranged around a slender patio dominated by a towering pine tree.
Hostal CatedralHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %57-242-6372; Obispo Labbé 253; s/d CH$18,000/28,000, without bathroom per person CH$11,000; W)
Homey place opposite the city’s main church, handy for early or late Tur Bus connections. Has a range of rooms – some quite stuffy but others spacious. Have a look at a few if you can.
Hotel EsmeraldaHOTEL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %57-221-6996; www.esmeraldahotel.cl; Labbé 1386; s/d CH$45,000/51,000; W)
Spacious rooms and clean lines characterize this modern hotel a few blocks from Paya Gaviota. Service can be absentminded, but it’s fair value for the price nonetheless.
Hotel Pacifico NorteHOTEL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %57-242-9396; hotelpacificonorte@chileagenda.cl; Ramirez 1941; s/d CH$30,000/40,000; W)
The service is kind, and the wooden floors are squeaky at this old-fashioned charmer. The rooms downstairs have tall ceilings but no view. Rooms upstairs are cozy but slightly cramped. Get one at the front for their sweet little wooden balconies overlooking the street.
Pampa HotelGUESTHOUSE$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %cell 9-8839-5211; www.pampahotel.com; Ramirez 1475; d/tr/lofts CH$62,000/72,000/100,000; W)
A lovely new addition to Iquique, Pampa Hotel has boutique-style guest rooms and young, kind-hearted hosts. Set in a converted home built in 1890, it’s awash with striking details, including original Oregon pine-wood flooring and feature walls, high ceilings, vintage fixtures and thoughtful touches like hand-woven throws for the bed, Alba bath products and blackout shades.
Sunfish HotelHOTEL$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %57-254-1000; www.sunfish.cl; Amunátegui 1990; s/d CH$90,000/98,000, with view CH$105,000/113,000; p
aWs)
This luxe option in a dark-blue high-rise just behind Playa Cavancha has a polished lobby, efficient service and rooftop pool. The rooms are bright and spacious, and have balconies. For the best vistas, get one on the top two floors.
5Eating
MonorganikoCAFE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Prat 580; sandwiches CH$3000-4000; h9am-2:30pm & 4-9pm Mon-Sat; v)
This tiny cafe secreted away inside a surf shop serves some of Iquique’s best coffees. The barista will prepare it any way you like – V60, aeropress, chemex etc – or you can get a flat white, latte or espresso. At the adjoining counter, you can order tasty acai bowls, smoothies, wraps, sandwiches and desserts.
El GuruCHILEAN$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Libertad 732; lunch specials around CH$3000, mains CH$4000-6000; hnoon-4pm & 7:30-11pm Mon-Fri, noon-4pm Sat)
Locals flock to this familial spot for its good-value, classic cooking. Come early for changing lunch specials of grilled fish, steak or pork served up with all the sides. It’s outdoor dining only in front of the simple eatery.
M.KooSWEETS$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Latorre 600; snacks from CH$600; h9am-8:30pm Mon-Sat)
Colorful corner shop famous for its crumbly chumbeques, sweet biscuits filled with mango, lemon, guava, passion fruit, manjar (dulce de leche) and other flavors. A big pack costs CH$1500.
CioccolataCAFE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Pinto 487; snacks CH$2500-5000; h8am-10pm Mon-Sat; W)
Proof that Chileans enjoy a decent espresso, this friendly coffee shop is usually crammed with people. It offers sandwiches, scrumptious cakes and waffles.
oSantoriniFUSION$$
(%57-222-1572; www.santorinirestobar.cl; Aeropuerto 2808; mains CH$8000-14,000; h6:30-11pm Mon, 1-3:30pm & 7-11:30pm Tue-Fri, 1pm-1am Sat, 1-5pm Sun; v)
A surprising find in Iquique, Santorini serves up a huge menu of authentic Greek fare, best enjoyed in the bougainvillea-draped back patio. Aside from saganaki (fried cheese) and souvlaki, you’ll also find pastas, whole grilled fish, delectable thin-crust pizzas and slow-roasted tender lamb cooked in a wood-burning oven. Finish with a creamy dessert (like Greek yogurt) and strong Greek coffee.
It’s about 4km southeast of the Plaza Prat.
La Mayor SandwicheriaSANDWICHES$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Céspedes y González 717; mains CH$4500-7800; h5:30pm-midnight Mon-Thu, from 1pm Fri & Sat; v)
This small rock-music-loving joint dishes up sizzling gourmet burgers and frothy craft brews to a postsurf crowd near the beach. The draw: delectable toppings (Iberian ham, fried egg, caramelized onions), excellent fries, a huge beer list and a respectable vegetarian option (a quinoa patty). Portion sizes are generous – cutlery is required. Go early for a table.
La MulataFUSION$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %57-247-3727; Prat 902; mains CH$9000-13,000; h12:30-4pm & 7:30-midnight Mon-Sat, 12:30-5pm Sun; Wv)
Some of the best cooking in town is served at this lively Peruvian-Japanese restaurant. Service is snappy but personable, portions are well-sized without being over the top and there’s a partial view of Playa Cavancha too. Don’t neglect the great cocktails.
El Tercer OjitoINTERNATIONAL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.eltercerojito.cl; Lynch 1420; mains CH$8000-12,500; h1-4pm & 7:30-10:30pm Tue-Sat, 1-5pm Sun; Wv)
Recognizable by the huge lump of quartz outside, this laid-back restaurant serves great vegetarian and carnivore-friendly dishes. Its globally inspired repertoire includes Peruvian ceviche, Thai curries and Italian-style spinach and ricotta ravioli. A flower-draped patio sports bougainvillea and other greenery.
oEl WagónCHILEAN$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %57-234-1428; Thompson 85; mains CH$11,000-17,000; h1-4pm & 8pm-2am Mon-Sat)
Almost single-handedly taking on the task of preserving the region’s culinary traditions, this rustically decked-out dining hall serves up a fantastic collection of seafood plates, with inspiration for recipes coming from everywhere from grandma’s classics to port-workers’ and miners’ staples. Pricey, but worth it.
BEAT THE HEAT IN PICA
The friendly and laid-back desert oasis of Pica appears as a painter’s splotch of green on a lifeless brown canvas. It boasts lush fruit groves and is justly famous for its limes, a key ingredient in any decent pisco sour. Visitors come here to cool off in the attractive but overcrowded freshwater pool and to slurp on the plethora of fresh fruit drinks.
Most visitors make a beeline to the freshwater pool at Cocha Resbaladero (Termas de Pica; General Ibáñez; CH$3000; h8am-8pm), at the upper end of General Ibáñez. Encircled by cool rock, hanging vegetation and a watery cave, it makes a terrific spot to beat the desert heat – but in itself is not reason enough to visit Pica. A few blocks north of the plaza, El Pomelo (Bolívar, near Maipu; mains CH$6500-12,000; h12:30-6pm Wed-Sun) is the best place to eat in town, with hearty lunch specials (CH$6000), grilled meats and fresh juices.
Pica is served by buses to Iquique (CH$3200, two hours), as well as tours operating from Iquique.
6Drinking & Nightlife
RadicalesBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Baquedano 1074; h4pm-2:30am Mon-Thu, to 5am Fri & Sat)
Set on the pedestrian drag of Baquedano, this vibrant two-story bar has a warren of creatively adorned rooms you can explore with a well-made tropical cocktail in hand. There’s an upstairs balcony and outdoor seating on the lane in front – both fine spots for starting off the night.
ClinicBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.facebook.com/barthecliniciquque; Lagos 881; h5pm-1:30am Wed & Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat)
An all-wood interior lends this place a chalet-like charm, and makes a fine backdrop to drinks and snacks. There’s live music most weekends, with bands kicking off around 10pm. Usually no cover.
Club CroataCAFE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Plaza Prat 310; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat; W)
Plazaside eatery with arched windows, Croatian coats of arms and a clutch of tables outside. It’s a fine spot for an afternoon pick-me-up.
7Shopping
Zona FrancaMALL
(Zofri; Av Salitrera Victoria; h11am-9pm Mon-Sat)
Created in 1975, Iquique’s zona franca is a massive monument to uncontrolled consumption – reputedly South America’s largest. The entire region of Tarapacá is a duty-free zone, but its nucleus is this shopping center, housing over 400 stores selling imported electronics, clothing, automobiles and almost anything else.
If you want to shop, take any northbound colectivo (around CH$700) from downtown. Don’t walk – it’s surrounded by some of the worst neighborhoods in town.
8Information
There are many ATMs downtown and at the zona franca. Several cambios (money exchangers) exchange foreign currency and traveler’s checks.
Post Office (Bolívar 458; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-noon Sat)
Sernatur (%57-241-9241; www.sernatur.cl; Pinto 436; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat) This office has tourist information, free city maps and brochures.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
The local airport, Aeropuerto Diego Aracena (%57-247-3473; www.aeropuertodiegoaracena.cl), is 41km south of downtown via Ruta 1.
LATAM (%600-526-2000; www.latam.com; Pinto 699; h9am-1:30pm & 3:30-6:15pm Mon-Fri, 10:30am-1pm Sat) has several flights a day to Santiago (from CH$90,000, 2½ hours). It also has two weekly flights to Salta, Argentina (around CH$155,000, 1½ hours).
Sky (%600-600-2828; www.skyairline.cl) has several daily flights to Santiago (from CH$55,000).
Amaszonas (www.amaszonas.com) flies daily to Arica (from CH$30,000, 40 minutes) and Antofagasta (from CH$45,000, 45 minutes). It also has four weekly flights to La Paz, Bolivia (from CH$65,000), four weekly flights to Salta, Argentina (from CH$190,000, 1½ hours) and five weekly to Asuncion, Paraguay (CH$200,000, two hours).
BUS
The main bus station, Terminal Rodoviario (%57-242-7100; Lynch), is at the north end of Patricio Lynch. Most major bus companies, such as Expreso Norte (%57-242-3215; www.expresonorte.cl; Barros Arana 881), Pullman (%57-242-9852; www.pullman.cl; Barros Arana 825) and Tur Bus (%57-273-6161; www.turbus.cl; Barras Arana 869, Mercado Centenario), as well as a few local ones, also have offices clustered around the Mercado Centenario, mainly along Barros Arana. You can reserve tickets here (saving a trek out to the bus terminal), but buses depart from the terminal. Services north and south are frequent, but most southbound services use Ruta 1, the coastal highway to Tocopilla (for connections to Calama) and Antofagasta (for Panamericana connections to Copiapó, La Serena and Santiago).
Several major bus companies, including Ramos Cholele (%57-247-1628; Barros Arana 851), travel north to Arica and south as far as Santiago.
Sample fares are as follows.
| DESTINATION | COST (CH$) | HOURS |
|---|---|---|
| Antofagasta | 19,000 | 7 |
| Arica | 7200 | 4½ |
| Calama | 13,000 | 7 |
| Copiapó | 36,000 | 14 |
| La Serena | 39,000 | 19 |
| Santiago | 50,000 | 24 |
To get to Pica, try one of the agencies on Barros Arana, between Zegers and Latorre. Chacón (Barros Arana 957) has several departures daily to Pica (CH$3200, two hours) as does Barreda (%57-241-1425; Barros Arana 965) next door. Santa Angela (%57-242-3751; Barros Arana 971) travels to Pica (CH$3200, two hours), La Tirana (CH$2500, 1½ hours) and Humberstone (CH$2500, 45 minutes).
For another way of reaching Humberstone (and Santa Laura), head to the Mercado Central for a colectivo. Companies include Taxi Chubasco (%57-275-1113; cnr Amunátegui & Sargento Aldea) and Taxi Pampa y Mar (%57-232-9832; cnr Barros Arana & Sargento Aldea).
Several bus companies travel to Bolivian destinations, including La Paz, Cochabamba and Oruro. They’re all clustered on one block of Esmeralda, between Amunategui and Martinez. It’s not a great neighborhood – take a taxi for early or late departures. For La Paz, Busfer (%cell 9-9561-8050; Esmeralda 951) has four departures daily (CH$6000 to CH$10,000, 14 hours), including 4am and 2pm, and Luján (Esmeralda 999) also has several daily departures (CH$10,000, 14 hours).
The easiest way to get to Peru is to go first to Arica, then hook up with an international bus there.
8Getting Around
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
Minibus transfer from Aeropuerto Diego Aracena to your hotel costs CH$6000; there are a few stands at the airport. Alternatively, shared taxis charge around CH$7000 per person; private cabs cost CH$17,000. Try Taxis Aeropuerto (%57-241-3368; cnr Anibal Pinto & Tarapaca) facing the plaza.
BUSES
Colectivos are the easiest way to get around town (CH$600). Destinations are clearly marked on an illuminated sign on top of the cab.
CARS
Cars cost from CH$26,000 per day. Local agencies often require an international driver’s license.
AVIS (%57-257-4330; Rodriguez 730; h8:30am-6:30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat)
Econorent Car Rental (%57-242-3723; Hernán Fuenzalida 1058; h8:30am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat)