Northern Patagonia

Why Go?

For a century, Northern Patagonia has been the most rugged and remote part of continental Chile, the place where scant pioneers quietly set forth a Wild West existence. While life here may still be tough for its residents, Northern Patagonia doesn’t lack for scenery. Exuberant rainforest, scrubby steppe and unclimbed peaks crowd the horizon, but the essence of this place is water, from the clear cascading rivers to the turquoise lakes, massive glaciers and labyrinthine fjords.

Southbound visitors often bypass Northern Patagonia on a sprint to Torres del Paine, but its backcountry treasures are pay dirt to the adventurous traveler.

The mostly gravel Carretera Austral rumbles from Puerto Montt to Villa O’Higgins, some 1200km south. Ferry connections are required for northerly roadless stretches where mountains meet the sea. Though sections north of Coyhaique are now being paved, the iconic challenge of driving the rest still remains.

When to Go

Nov–Mar Warmest months and the best bus connections on the Carretera Austral.
Feb Festival Costumbrista celebrates pioneer culture; parties in most small towns.
Jul–Aug Blue-sky days around Coyhaique, with nearby skiing and snowshoeing.

Best Places to Eat

A Dalí

A Martín Pescador

A El Rincón Gaucho

A Ruibarbo

A Mamma Gaucha

Best Places to Stay

A Entre Hielos

A Destino No Turístico

A Uman Lodge

A Lodge at Valle Chacabuco

Northern Patagonia Highlights

1 Parque Nacional Pumalín Paddling the misty fjords and trekking the temperate rainforests of this excellent park.

2 Carretera Austral Admiring the rural farms, rushing rivers and hanging glaciers while tracing the length of the mythic road.

3 Pioneer Patagonia Riding on remote Andean trails with traditional cowboys.

4 Río Futaleufú Facing a whirl of white water, rafting these world-class rapids.

5 Caleta Tortel Losing track of time dallying in this cool seaside village set on boardwalks.

6 Reserva Nacional Lago Jeinimeni Scouting for cave paintings and spying on flamingos in this little-known park

7 Puerto Río Tranquilo Getting up close and personal with Glaciar San Rafael or the marble caves by joining a tour from this nearby town.

History

Long isolated and still remote, Northern Patagonia is the youngest area of the Chilean nation and the last to integrate. Chile only started promoting colonization in the early 20th century and many of the towns are barely 50 years old.

For thousands of years, the Chonos and Alacalufes people inhabited the intricate canals and islands, while Tehuelches lived on the mainland steppes. Rugged geography deterred European settlement, save for fortune seekers seeking the legendary ‘City of the Caesars.’ Many expeditions visited the area in the late 18th and early 19th centuries (including one that brought Charles Darwin), some in search of a protected passage to the Atlantic Ocean.

In the early 1900s the government granted nearly 10,000 sq km in and around Coyhaique to the Valparaíso-based Sociedad Industrial Aisén as a long-term lease for exploitation of livestock and lumber. The company dominated the regional economy, and colonists trickled into the region to claim remote lands for farming. Encouraged by a Chilean law that rewarded clearance with land titles, the Sociedad and colonists burned nearly 30,000 sq km of forest and destroyed much of Aisén’s native southern beech in fires that raged for nearly a decade in the 1940s.

The region is sparsely populated, most notably south of Coyhaique, an area devastated by the 1991 eruption of Volcán Hudson. As with Volcán Chaitén’s 2008 eruptions, it dumped tons of ash over thousands of square kilometers in both Chile and Argentina, ruining cropland and killing livestock by burying pasture grasses.

Salmon farming is a major industry and Patagonia’s cold waters provide optimal farming conditions. The industry edged south after contaminating some Lakes District waters past sustainability, with waste from farms causing serious ecological disruption. The lobby for salmon farming is still quite strong and effective, given that there are few other industries in the region.

A strong public campaign contributed to the 2014 defeat of a number of proposed hydroelectric projects. In recent years these and other plans for industrialization defined the continual push and pull between development and conservation in this region. In 2017 the Chilean government accepted the donation of various private Patagonian parks put together by Tompkins Conservation and added more federal land, making Chile the most park-dense region of the world.

8Getting There & Around

Flights from Puerto Montt access Chaitén and Coyhaique (some direct from Santiago). Within the region there are charter services and there may be regional flights between Coyhaique, Cochrane and Villa O’Higgins.

The Carretera Austral and its offshoots are remote. Sections between Chaitén and Balmaceda have been paved, but offshoot roads and those further south are unpaved and in varying condition.

Most travelers start with a ferry from Puerto Montt or Chiloé, to Chaitén or Puerto Chacabuco; fly to Chaitén or Coyhaique; or go overland via Argentina, accessing the region through Futaleufú. In order to drive the length of the Carretera Austral, there are several mandatory ferry crossings. It’s now also possible to travel from the south, with a car ferry that links Puerto Natales to Caleta Tortel and Puerto Yungay.

Some bus routes only have services a few days per week, with fewer in low season. In high season long-distance buses often fill up early in their route and refuse standing passengers. Book your bus tickets at least three days in advance to spare yourself the frustration.

Hitchhiking, not recommended by Lonely Planet, is possible along the Carretera Austral, but hard for groups or travelers with a lot of luggage.

Hornopirén

%65 / POP 1283

Few take advantage of the lush surroundings of this salmon-farming and transport hub. If the ferry is full, you may spend more time here than originally planned. The Ruta Bi-Modal ferry links the roadless northern section of Parque Nacional Pumalín to Caleta Gonzalo, where the road continues south. The road between the Puelche ferry landing and Hornopirén is paved.

Relatively unknown and not often accessed, Parque Nacional Hornopirén protects a lush wilderness of alpine terrain. It remains obscure mainly because there’s no public transportation and the park entrance is partially accessed on foot. Trails to and in the park are marked but at times hard to follow. The upside? It offers great scenery and backcountry escapes. If planning on making an overnight hike, check in with Conaf before departing town.

About 6km south of Hornopirén, the road forks. The right fork eventually leads to the end of the road at Pichanco. Continue walking another 8km from here along a faintly marked trail to the park’s entrance. Some 3km on, Lago General Pinto Concha has a pristine beach where wild camping is possible.

ROAD TRIP!

Ranking among the world’s ultimate road trips, the Carretera Austral runs 1240km alongside ancient forests, glaciers, pioneer farmsteads, turquoise rivers and the crashing Pacific. Completed in 1996, it required an initial investment of US$300 million, took more than 20 years to build and cost 11 workers their lives. Pinochet’s quest to cut a road through Aisén was not based on common sense or a pragmatic plan, it arguably had more to do with the symbolism of a highway that united forgotten outposts with national identity.

Highway is a glorified name – the southern half of the route is unpaved and can be in poor condition. Yet travelers are drawn here in part because the route is not lined with Shell stations and Starbucks. Don’t skimp on planning and a good dose of prudence. If you like your food green, bring fresh produce – the local selection can be severely lacking.

To the north of the Carretera Austral, ferry service is inadequate for the amount of traffic and only runs regularly during summer. Especially in winter, rock slides are common and landslides may close sections of the road for days. In the south, the road sits barely 1m above the flood-prone Río Baker, the mightiest Chilean river.

Isolation makes this region expensive. Be prepared for costs 20% above the rest of Chile. Go prepared:

A Get your vehicle checked out prior to departure.

A When possible, reserve ferry crossings in advance.

A Organize your cash (few towns have ATMs, and BancoEstado takes only MasterCard).

A Drive during the day; there are no streetlights and curves are not marked with reflectors.

A Carry extra food, water and gas, as a breakdown or empty tank can leave you marooned.

A Always carry a neumático (spare tire) and make sure the vehicle has una gata (a car jack) and jumper cables.

A Take your time and enjoy the scenery – high-speed turns on loose gravel roads are a recipe for disaster.

A Stop if someone looks like they might need help.

A Give trucks a wider berth on gravel – broken windshields are endemic to the Carretera Austral.

If crossing into Argentina, start your trip with all papers in order, permission to take a rental vehicle out of the country and the required insurance. Extra fuel, meat, produce and dairy products can’t cross borders.

4Sleeping & Eating

Hotel HornopirénHOTEL$

(%65-221-7256; Carrera Pinto 388; d CH$35,000, s/d without bathroom CH$13,000/30,000; iW)

This hotel has well-worn Patagonian character, water views and the assuring presence of Señora Ollie. The best rooms are those on the 2nd floor overlooking the water.

Cabañas LahuanCABIN$$

(%65-221-7239, cell 9-8409-0231; www.turismolahuan.com; Calle Cahuelmó 40; 5-/8-person cabins CH$75,000/100,000; W)

Solid two-story cabins with flat-screen TVs, wood stoves, grills and big picture windows facing the harbor. There are kayaks for guest use. With a day’s notice, the owners can help arrange excursions to the lovely and remote Termas Porcelanas, 1½ hours by boat.

oEl PescadorSEAFOOD$

(%cell 9-9508-9534; Río Barceló s/n; CH$6000; h10am-8pm)

Come for simple but outstanding Chilean comfort food. The fried merluza (hake) comes fresh, crisp and oversized, though you probably won’t want to share. There are also seafood stews and surprisingly good steak.

Cocinas CostumbristasSEAFOOD$

(cnr O’Higgins & Cordillera; mains CH$7000; h8:30am-9pm Mon-Sat, 10am-5pm Sun)

Eating in these market-style shops is like a visit to your Chilean grandma, with fresh fish and oversized portions.

8Information

For tourism information, check the website Patagonia Verde (http://patagoniaverde.org) or visit the Tourist Kiosk (oficinadeturismohualaihue@gmail.com; 21 de Septiembre s/n; h9am-7pm Dec-Feb) on the plaza.

8Getting There & Away

Kemelbus (%in Puerto Montt 65-225-6450; Plaza s/n) has four buses daily to and from the bus terminal in Puerto Montt (CH$4000, four hours). The bus ticket includes the fee for the ferry across the narrow Estuario de Reloncaví. Departing Puerto Montt at 6am and 8am, passengers can continue on to Parque Nacional Pumalín or Chaitén (CH$20,000, 10 hours), via the Ruta Bi-Modal ferry crossing; bus tickets include ferry costs.

Naviera Austral (%in Puerto Montt 65-227-0430; www.taustral.cl; ferry dock, off Ingeniero Militares) makes two ferry crossings relevant to travel here. Less than one hour south of Puerto Montt, a 30-minute crossing goes from Caleta La Arena to Puelche (bicycle/car CH$2800/9800). Ferries leave every half-hour in high season, with extended hours in summer.

Between Hornopirén and Parque Nacional Pumalín (per passenger/car CH$5600/33,600), ferry crossings are known as the Ruta Bi-Modal, a system which coordinates two ferry crossings with a short 15km land stretch between them; passengers pay only once. In total, the trip between Hornopirén and Caleta Gonzalo lasts five hours. From the first week of January to the end of February there are three trips daily at 10:30am, noon and 3pm. Summer is busy, so reserve one week ahead online, or with a direct bank deposit including passport information for all passengers and the vehicle license plate. Kemelbus serves the route.

ALERCE

Waterproof and nearly indestructible, the valuable alerce shingle once served as currency for the German colonists in the south. Known as lahuan in Mapuche, Fitzroya cupressoides ranks among the oldest and largest tree species in the world, with specimens reaching almost 4000 years old. This 40m-to-60m jolly evergreen giant plays a key role in temperate rainforests, though its prime value as a hardwood (and surefire shelter in a rainy climate) means it was logged to near extinction. It is no longer legal to harvest live trees, but you can see alerce shingles on Chilote houses and the real deal deep in the Lakes District and Northern Patagonian forests.

Parque Nacional Pumalín

%65

Verdant and pristine, this 2889-sq-km park (www.parquepumalin.cl) F encompasses vast extensions of temperate rainforest, clear rivers and seascapes. A remarkable forest-conservation effort, stretching from near Hornopirén to south of Chaitén, Parque Nacional Pumalín attracts international visitors in great numbers. Created by American philanthropist Doug Tompkins, it was one of the largest private parks in the world prior to its donation to Chile in 2017. For Chile it’s a model park, with well-maintained roads and trails, extensive infrastructure and minimal impact. There’s no entry fee as the park bisects the Carretera Austral and it would be difficult to distinguish the park users from those traveling through.

The park closed for several years after the dramatic 2008 eruption of Volcán Chaitén. Now there is a trail leading to a spectacular viewpoint of the smoking crater.

2Activities

Check with an information center before finalizing your hiking plans as conditions are changeable.

oSendero los AlercesHIKING

This 1km trail crosses the river to a substantial grove of millennial alerce trees, with interpretive signs along the way. It’s 12.5km south of Caleta Gonzalo.

Aero AlerceSCENIC FLIGHTS

(%cell 9-8198-7283; www.aeroalerce.com; 3hr overflight per person US$500)

Pilot Rodrigo Noriega has decades of experience in Patagonia and it shows. Trips include overflights in Pumalín and Corcovado national parks, visits to prime fly-fishing destinations and wilderness overnights. Costs are based on four passengers. The three-hour overflight includes up-close views of the smoking Chaitén crater and a picnic stop at Lago Negro.

Volcán Chaitén Crater TrailHIKING

This five-hour round-trip ascends the blast path to view the puffing crater. The lower sections teem with vegetation while the upper reaches are barren and beautiful. The trail is 800m with a 250m change in altitude, a pyroclastic Mt St Helen’s–style trail through forest that burned through heat, not fire. It’s near Puente Los Gigos.

Laguna TronadorHIKING

This four-hour, 4.8km round-trip is not so much a trail as it is, often literally, a staircase. A boardwalk crosses a pasarela (hanging bridge) to a series of wooden stepladders. Climb one hour to a mirador (lookout) at the saddle with views of Volcán Michimahuida. The trail drops toward the lake with a two-site campground, sturdy picnic tables and latrine.

It’s about 11km south of Caleta Gonzalo.

Ventisquero AmarilloHIKING

(El Amarillo)

This flat, open 10km trek to the Amarillo hanging glacier sits in Pumalín’s newest sector, some 20km south of Chaitén. Start at the Ventisquero campground toward the base of the Michinmahuida Glacier; cross the river at its widest point, closer to the campground.

MichinmahuidaHIKING

(El Amarillo)

At Michinmahuida, 33km south of Caleta Gonzalo, a challenging 12km trail ascends 700m to the base of the volcano.

Sendero CascadaHIKING

This three-hour round-trip is an undulating climb through dense forest that ends at a large waterfall. The river crossing an hour into the hike can be dangerous at high water.

Cascadas EscondidasHIKING

At Cascadas Escondidas, 14km south of Caleta Gonzalo, a one-hour trail leads from the campground to a series of waterfalls.

TTours

Currently the only way to access some of the isolated northern reaches of the park is by boat. A few Puerto Varas–based operators organize boating and kayaking trips through the fjords and to otherwise-inaccessible hot springs. In Chaitén, Chaitur has information on local guides who take hiking groups to the volcano.

Al Sur Expeditions (%in Puerto Varas 65-223-2300; www.alsurexpeditions.com) specializes in sea kayaking and provides boat transportation to the remote Cahuelmó Hot Springs.

4Sleeping

Camping TronadorCAMPGROUND$

Free backcountry campsites at the basin of the stunning amphitheater lake on Laguna Tronador trail, a steep two-hour climb from the trailhead.

Lago BlancoCAMPGROUND$

(campsites per person/motor home CH$5000/10,000)

Twenty kilometers south of Caleta Gonzalo and 36km north of Chaitén, Lago Blanco has a few covered sites and great views of the lake. Make sure you hike the short distance to the mirador for a better view. There is excellent fishing in the lake, but you’ll need to get a permit from a ranger station. There’s a covered cooking area and bathrooms.

Sector AmarilloCAMPGROUND$

(campsites per person/motor home CH$6000/10,000)

This sector south of Chaitén occupies former farmland beyond the Termas El Amarillo, with great views and flat, open sites in three separate areas. It has covered cooking areas and bathrooms. It is a couple of days’ hiking from other areas or accessible by car.

Lago NegroCAMPGROUND$

(campsites per person/motor home CH$5000/10,000)

Large camping area close to the lake with cook shelter and bathrooms.

Camping El VolcánCAMPGROUND$

(campsites per person/motor home CH$5000/10,000)

At the southern end of the park before Chaitén, 2.5km before the southern-entrance ranger station, this big camping zone has car camping and information. It has a covered cooking area and bathrooms with cold-water showers.

Cascadas EscondidasCAMPGROUND$

(campsites per person/motor home CH$6000/10,000)

Features platform sites with roof at the trailhead to Cascadas Escondidas. Also has a cooking area and bathrooms.

Avellano LodgeLODGE$$

(%65-257-6433, cell 9-9641-4613; www.elavellanolodge.com; Ayacara; per person half board CH$30,000; iW)

Just outside of the park on the peninsula, this gorgeous hardwood lodge offers an unbeatable combination of park access, service and comfort. Hiking, fly-fishing and sea-kayaking tours with all-inclusive packages, including transfer from Puerto Montt, are available.

oCaleta Gonzalo CabañasCABIN$$$

(%in Puerto Varas 65-225-0079; reservas@parquepumalin.cl; Caleta Gonzalo; campsites per person/motor home CH$6000/10,000, s/d/t/q incl breakfast CH$80,000/100,000/120,000/145,000)

Custom made for forest gnomes, these tiny shingled cabins (without kitchen facilities) overlook the fjord, with hardwood details and cool loft beds for kids. There’s camping nearby at Río Gonzalo with a cooking shelter, bathrooms and cold-water showers.

Fundo del Río CabañasCABIN$$$

(%in Puerto Varas 65-225-0079; reservas@parquepumalin.cl; 2-/4-person cabins CH$65,000/125,000)

Tucked into farmland, these ultra-private cabins with kitchen facilities have sea or valley views and firewood included.

5Eating

Puma VerdeMARKET$

(%65-220-2358; Carretera Austral s/n, El Amarillo; h10am-8pm)

Sells reasonably priced provisions, including well-priced wines, eggs and produce, for campers, as well as some high-quality local crafts. The on-site cafe serves espresso drinks and snacks.

Café Caleta GonzaloCAFE$$

(Caleta Gonzalo; mains CH$8500-16,000; h9am-10pm)

The park’s only restaurant is this attractive cafe with a huge fireplace. Fresh bread, local honey and organic vegetables put it a notch above average. Homemade oatmeal cookies, honey or picnic boxes are available to go.

8Information

There’s almost no cell service in the park. The Centro de Visitantes Caleta Gonzalo (www.parquepumalin.cl; Caleta Gonzalo; h9am-7pm Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm Sun) and Centro de Visitantes El Amarillo (www.parquepumalin.cl; El Amarillo; h9am-7pm Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm Sun) have park brochures, photos and environmental info as well as regional artisan goods for sale.

Tompkins Conservation (%in USA 1-415-229-9339; www.tompkinsconservation.org) has information on all the conservation projects under the Tompkins umbrella.

8Getting There & Away

The Naviera Austral (%65-221-7266; www.taustral.cl; ferry dock; passenger/car CH$6000/34,000) ferries sail from Caleta Gonzalo to Hornopirén (five to six hours) twice daily in high season. Bus-boat combos from Puerto Montt can drop visitors in the park on the way to Chaitén.

Chaitén

%65 / POP 6200

The main service town for Parque Nacional Pumalín, Chaitén is also the major transport hub for the northern Carretera Austral. Flights and ferries from Puerto Montt and Chiloé arrive here, and it’s the starting point for many bus routes south.

When an unknown volcano decided to wake up on May 2, 2008, this quiet village underwent a total siege. Locals were able to evacuate, but suffered years of uncertainty as the government formed a response. Residents resisted the initial government decision to move the town 10km north and have rebuilt their shingled town with pride.

2Activities

Termas El AmarilloHOT SPRINGS

(%Municipalidad de Chaitén 65-274-1500; CH$7000; h9am-7pm)

Overly popular in summer with a recently renovated soaking pool and smaller, hotter tubs, overlooking Río Michinmahuida. It’s 25km southeast of Chaitén, on a spur north off the Carretera Austral. There’s on-site lodging and camping at a private site 1km away. There’s no phone signal; make inquiries by calling the Chaitén municipality, which manages the site.

ChaiturTOURS

(%65-273-7249, cell 9-7468-5608; www.chaitur.com; O’Higgins 67; hhours vary)

The best source of local information, English-speaking Nicholas dispatches most of the buses and arranges bilingual guided visits to Pumalín, Yelcho glacier, Termas El Amarillo and beaches with sea-lion colonies. Guided hikes to the Volcan Chaitén Crater Trail offer detailed scientific information. Also rents bikes (CH$10,000 per day).

VOLCÁN CHAITÉN WAKES UP

No one even considered it a volcano, but that changed quickly. On May 2, 2008, Volcán Chaitén, 10km northeast of its namesake town, began a month-long eruption with a 20km-high column of ash.

During the first week, successive explosions emitted more than a cubic kilometer of rhyolitic ash. The rampage caused flooding and severe damage to homes, roads and bridges, decimated thousands of livestock and spewed ash as far as Buenos Aires. Chaitén’s 4000 inhabitants were evacuated. The government sanctioned relocating the town slightly northwest to the village of Santa Bárbara (Nuevo Chaitén), but later improvements in the original town’s infrastructure saw locals returning to recover their homes in Chaitén.

Located in Parque Nacional Pumalín, the volcano is easily viewed from sections of the main park road that show forests on the volcano’s northeastern flank calcified by pyroclastic flows. The crater has yawned open to 3km in diameter, hosting within it a new complex of quickly formed rhyolitic domes. For stunning views of the smoking crater, hike to the ridgetop of the crater trail. Go early or late in the day during summer, as there’s little shade on the trail.

The park reopened in 2011, thanks to park rangers who have worked tirelessly in its recovery. Volcán Chaitén remains under constant monitoring by Sernageomin (www.sernageomin.cl), the government agency of geology and mining.

4Sleeping

Doña CollitaGUESTHOUSE$

(%cell 9-8445-7500; Portales 54; incl breakfast per person without bathroom CH$15,000, d CH$35,000; W)

An immaculate, old-fashioned hospedaje (guesthouse) with spotless rooms and a stern hostess. Cold feet take heart: it’s one of the few options on the Carretera Austral where the heat is always cranking.

Cielo Mar CampingCAMPGROUND$

(%cell 9-7468-5608; www.chaitur.com; cnr O’Higgins & Costanera Av Corcovado; campsites per person CH$5000; W)

Backyard campsites and hot-water showers, right in the center of town.

Cabañas GrizzlyCABAñAS$$

(%65-224-1908; elguetaangel@gmail.com; Carretera Austral, Km25, El Amarillo; 2-/4-person cabins CH$50,000/60,000; W)

These impeccable country-style cabins with shady porches sport nice hardwood furnishings, fully equipped kitchens and cable TV. Don’t worry about the bears – it’s named for the family dog.

Posada Expediciones KahuelCABIN$$

(%cell 9-8156-6148; www.pymesdechile.cl/posadakahuel/index.php; Carretera Austral s/n; d with breakfast CH$50,000, cabins from CH$88,000; W)

Located on the outskirts of town, this forested retreat consists of small rooms with raw wood details and nice woolen throws, plus cabins for larger groups. It’s 400m from the ocean, and can feel damp if it’s raining. The owners offer boat excursions (CH$80,000 for four) to check out sea lions, with the possibility of dolphin-spotting. Takes credit cards.

5Eating

oCocinerías CostumbristasSEAFOOD$

(%cell 9-8170-8983; Portales 258; meals CH$3000-8000; h9am-midnight)

Apron-clad señoras in tiny kitchens serve up piping-hot seafood empanadas, fish platters and fresh paila marina (shellfish soup). Come early for lunch because it fills up fast with locals.

Café Pizzería ReconquistaPIZZERIA, CAFE$

(%cell 9-7495-4442; Portales 269; pizzas CH$5000-8000; hnoon-midnight)

A good bet for thin-crust pizzas, plus burgers and cola in bottles, this shiny cafe has a handful of gleaming indoor picnic tables and considerate staff.

NatourFOOD TRUCK$

(O’Higgins s/n; h9am-2pm Mon-Sat; Wv)

Whole-bean coffee, omelets and sandwiches are sold out of this food truck, also serving ice cream.

Restobar el VolcánCHILEAN$$

(%cell 9-8186-9558; Prat 65; mains CH$6000-9000; h9am-midnight; W)

Housed in a rambling shingled home, Restobar el Volcán is a friendly restaurant-bar. In summer local produce and house-made jams and juices (try nalca, a Patagonian relative of rhubarb) spiff up a typical menu of regionally sourced fish, tasty steak and sandwiches. Servings are oversized. Breakfast is also served.

8Information

BancoEstado (cnr Libertad & O’Higgins; h9am-2pm Mon-Fri) Has an ATM and poor exchange rates for cash.

Sernatur (%65-273-1082; Portales 408; h8:30am-1:30pm & 2:30-5:30pm Mon-Fri) Promotes the Patagonia Verde route from Hornopirén through Palena.

Tourist Kiosk (cnr Costanera Av Corcovado & O’Higgins; h9am-9pm Jan-Feb) Has leaflets and a list of accommodations.

Hospital de Chaitén (%65-731-244; Av Ignacio Carrera Pinto; h24hr) 24-hour emergency room.

8Getting There & Away

Chaitén is a hub for the northern section of the Carretera Austral. It’s 56km south of Caleta Gonzalo and 45km northwest of Puerto Cárdenas.

In December 2017 a major landslide hit Villa Santa Lucía, located some 75km south, causing 14 deaths, destroying much of the village and cutting off north–south connectivity for some months. As a result, there may be fewer transport, lodging and food services located in Villa Santa Lucía in the future.

AIR

Santa Bárbara airport is 10km north of Chaitén. Both Aerocord (%cell 9-7669-4515; www.aerocord.cl; Portales 287) and Pewen (%cell 9-9403-4298; www.pewenchile.com; O’Higgins s/n) fly to Aeródromo La Paloma in Puerto Montt (one way CH$50,000, 45 minutes). Both fly daily except Sundays, usually midmorning.

BOAT

Ferry schedules change, so confirm online before making plans.

In summer the Naviera Austral (%65-2731-011; www.navieraustral.cl; Riveros 181; passenger seat/car CH$17,300/95,000) auto-passenger ferry Don Baldo sails three times a week to Puerto Montt (nine hours) and twice weekly to Quellón (six hours) and Castro, Chiloé (five hours).

If you arrive by ferry, the port is a 500m walk northwest of town.

BUS

Transportation schedules and operators for the Carretera Austral change frequently. Departures are from the main Chaitur Bus Terminal (%cell 9-7468-5608; www.chaitur.com; O’Higgins 67; h9am-noon & 4-7pm). Kemelbus goes to Puerto Montt (CH$20,000, nine hours) daily at 10am and noon. Buses Becker goes to Coyhaique on Wednesday and Sunday at noon, stopping in Villa Santa Lucía (where offshoots lead to Futaleufú and Palena), La Junta and Puyuhuapi along the way. This route was being paved at the time of writing, causing delays and road closures. It may be completed by the time you read this, but ask for updates at the terminal.

Buses Cárdenas goes to Futaleufú daily at 1pm and to Palena daily at noon. Buses Cumbres Nevadas goes to Palena and Futaleufú daily at 4pm and 7pm.

Currently many bus routes offer subsidized fares for all passengers, but in the future discounts may be for residents only.

DESTINATION	COST (CH$)	HOURS
Coyhaique	24,000	8
Futaleufú	2000	3
La Junta	12,000	3
Palena	2000	3
Puyuhuapi	15,000	4½
Villa Santa Lucía	1000	1½

Futaleufú

%65 / POP 2300

The wild, frosty-mint waters of the Río Futaleufú have made this modest mountain town famous. Not just a mecca for kayaking and rafting, it also boasts fly-fishing, hiking and horseback riding. Improved roads and growing numbers of package-tour visitors mean it isn’t off the map anymore – just note the ratio of down puffer jackets to woolen mantas (ponchos). It’s a fun place, but if you prefer a peaceful visit, go on either end of the summer rush.

The town of Futaleufú, a small 20-block grid of pastel-painted houses 155km southeast of Chaitén, is mainly a service center to the Argentine border, only 8km away, and a bedroom community for boaters. Many visitors hop the border to the nearby Argentine towns of Trevelín and Esquel, and to Argentina’s Parque Nacional Los Alerces.

2Activities

The ‘Futa’ or ‘Fu,’ as it’s known, is a technical, demanding river, with some sections only appropriate for experienced rafters. Depending on the outfitter you choose and the services included, rafting the Futaleufú starts at CH$50,000 per person for a half-day section known as Bridge to Bridge, with Class IV and IV-plus rapids. A full-day trip for experienced rafters only goes from Bridge to Macul, adding two Class V rapids, starting at CH$60,000.

Ideal for families, there’s rafting on the Class III Río Espolón. Novice kayakers can try this river or head to Lago Espolón for a float trip.

Bio Bio ExpeditionsOUTDOORS

(%22-196-4258, US toll free 1-800-246-7238; www.bbxrafting.com)

A pioneer in the region, this ecologically minded group offers river descents, horse treks and more. It is well established but may take walk-ins.

Bochinche RaftingRAFTING

(%cell 9-8847-6174; https://bochinchex.com; Cerda 697; h9am-10pm)

A small outfitter offering daily rafting trips in addition to kayak and bike rentals and other guided outdoor activities.

Expediciones ChileOUTDOORS

(%65-562-639; www.exchile.com; Mistral 296; h9am-11pm Dec-Mar)

A secure rafting operator with loads of experience. Specializes in weeklong packages but offers kayaking, mountain biking and horse riding as well. It also runs an eco-camp on the Río Azul and a kayak school on the Río Espolón.

Carpintero NegroHIKING

(%cell 9-5825-4073; www.carpinteronegro.com; Cerda 439; hhours vary)

There’s plenty of gorgeous hiking around Futaleufú but little information on how to do it. Offering half-day and multiday trips, this guiding service fills a much-needed niche. Contact via WhatsApp.

Patagonia ElementsRAFTING

(%cell 9-7499-0296; www.patagoniaelements.com; Cerda 549; h9:30am-9pm)

Competent Chilean guides; also offers mountain-bike rentals (half-day CH$15,000).

zFestivals & Events

Ruta de los VallesSPORTS

(www.rutadelosvalles.cl; hlate Jan)

Race through gorgeous Andean mountain scenery at this annual mountain-bike race with 20km and 48km circuits, attracting participants from around the world.

Futa FestSPORTS

(https://es-la.facebook.com/GenteDeRios; hlate Feb-early Mar)

This annual river festival celebrates the mighty Río Futaleufú with competitions, parties and public events. See the Facebook page for details. The event started after the eruption of Volcán Chaitén, when the region suffered disastrously and faced economic hardship, with the aim to preserve the river and its incredible natural environment.

4Sleeping

Las NataliasHOSTEL$

(%cell 9-6283-5371; www.hostallasnatalias.cl; dm/tr CH$15,000/50,000, d with/without bathroom$36,000/32,000; hNov-Apr)

Named for four generations of Natalias, this welcoming spot is a great deal for backpackers, with tips on outdoor options. There are plenty of shared bathrooms, a large communal area, mountain views and a guest kitchen. It’s a 10-minute walk from the center. Follow Cerda and signs for the northwest outskirts of town; it’s on the right after the hill climb.

The owner Nate also offers recommended kayak instruction (CH$80,000 per day).

Cara del IndioCAMPGROUND$

(%WhatsApp 9-9467-2943; www.caradelindio.cl; Lonconao Sector; campsites per person CH$5000, cabañas CH$35,000-50,000; hNov-Apr)

With a spectacular riverfront setting, this adventure base camp (also offering rafting) is run by Luis Toro and his family. Cabins come in various sizes on the 10km spread. Sites have access to hot showers, an outdoor kitchen and a wood-burning sauna. Guests can dine on-site or purchase homemade items. The contact number only handles WhatsApp calls.

It’s 15km from Puerto Ramírez and 35km from the Carretera Austral.

Posada ElyGUESTHOUSE$

(%65-272-1205; posada.ely.futaleufu@gmail.com; Balmaceda 409; s/d incl breakfast CH$15,000/30,000; pW)

A great deal, these well-kept rooms sit under the sure guardianship of Betty, a dyed-in-the-wool local who makes a mean rose-hip jam, served with a breakfast of fresh bread, eggs, juice, tea and more. Cable TV is available.

Martín Pescador B&BB&B$

(%65-272-1279; Balmaceda 603; per person CH$20,000, 6-person cabins CH$60,000; W)

Behind the restaurant, this cozy home with adobe-style walls and attractive furnishings is a steal. The two-bedroom cabins with narrow staircases are rustic and stylish, with kitchenettes. Mitch, the owner, also works as a freelance outdoor guide.

Aldea Puerto EspolónCAMPGROUND$

(%cell 9-5324-0305; www.aldeapuertoespolon.cl; Ruta 231; campsites per person CH$7000, domos CH$9000; hJan-Mar; W)

A gorgeous setting on a sandy riverbank flanked by mountains, just before the Chilean entrance to town. Campers have hot showers and a sheltered kitchen for cooking with gas. Groups can also sleep in geodesic domes on platforms; bring your own sleeping bag.

Adolfo’s B&BB&B$

(%65-272-1256; pettyrios@gmail.com; O’Higgins 302; incl breakfast s/d CH$20,000/40,000, r per person without bathroom CH$15,000; iW)

The best bargain digs in town are in this warm wood-finish home run by a hospitable family. Breakfast includes eggs, homemade bread and coffee cake.

oLa Antigua CasonaINN$$

(%65-272-1311; silvanobmw@gmail.com; Rodríguez 215; d/tr incl breakfast CH$60,000/80,000; W)

Every polished detail of this refurbished settler’s barn expresses the loving attention of its Italian and Chilean owners. Rooms sport a lovely, nature-themed decor with hand-painted birds and quilted beds. For passers-by, there’s an inviting cafe with a shaded terrace attended by Silvano, an aficionado of local history.

La Gringa CariocaB&B$$

(%65-272-1260, cell 9-9659-9341; Aldea 498; s/d incl breakfast US$100/120; W)

Come home to a sweeping garden area with hammocks and lovely windowbox seats in an old, lived-in house. Adriana, the Brazilian hostess, speaks multiple languages and proves helpful with local tips. On-site yoga, reiki and massage are coming soon. The wonderful breakfasts include farm eggs and real coffee. The downside is the older installations and bathrooms.

Hostería Río GrandeHOTEL$$

(%65-272-1320; www.pachile.com; O’Higgins 397; s/d/tr CH$35,000/55,000/65,000; pW)

This comfortable shingled lodge caters to sporty gringos. Expect bright, carpeted rooms with portable heaters and low-slung beds in deep frames. It also features an on-site cafe with wi-fi and a grassy terrace.

oUman LodgeLODGE$$$

(%65-272-1700; http://umanlodge.cl; Fundo La Confluencia; s/d incl breakfast US$490/550; Ws)

This panorama of converging rivers rates among Patagonia’s best views. Uman means ‘lodging’ in Mapundungun, and the place longs for a native connection beyond the hardwoods. Tastefully modern, it’s sheathed in glass walls and alerce shingles with 16 luxury rooms with views. Amenities include on-site adventure tours and an indoor-outdoor pool. It’s 2.5km from town, with a steep gravel approach.

The on-site restaurant includes a notable wine cellar with tastings guided by a resident sommelier.

Hotel El BarrancoHOTEL$$$

(%65-272-1314; www.elbarrancochile.cl; O’Higgins 172; d incl breakfast US$215; iWs)

At this elegant lodge on the edge of the grid of town, rooms are stylish and snug with carved woodwork, colonial accents and big beds, though the sluggish service hardly merits the high-end price tag. There’s also an on-site restaurant, swimming pool and sauna.

5Eating & Drinking

Pizzas de FabioPIZZA$

(%cell 9-5877-8334; Carnicer s/n; pizzas CH$6000; hnoon-10pm; v)

There’s no going wrong with these thin-crust, gooey pizzas made by Argentine chef Fabio, who gave up cooking haute cuisine to open his own grungy-fun takeout business. Vegan options.

Picada de ColonosCHILEAN$

(%65-272-1326; O’Higgins 782; mains CH$5000-7000; h8am-10pm Mon-Sat)

In Nelsa’s home kitchen there’s no menu, but she can cook up pork chops, cazuela (oversized stews), milanesas (schnitzels) and fries. Tables are set with homemade sopapillas (fry bread), a Patagonian staple. It’s on the way to the border.

Rincón de MamáCHILEAN$

(%65-272-1208; O’Higgins 465 alley; mains CH$8000; h11:30am-2:30pm & 6:30-10pm Mon-Sat)

This simple eatery with citrus colors and plastic tablecloths does home-cooked meals on the 2nd floor of a rambling alleyway house.

Restaurant Antigua CasonaITALIAN$$

(%65-272-1311; Rodríguez 215; mains CH$10,000; hnoon-10pm)

With an elegant atmosphere, this cafe at the small La Antigua Casona hotel does wonderful homemade pasta, gnocchi and lasagna with vegetarian options. The owner hails from Milan, so authenticity is not an issue. Continuous hours means it’s open when you’re hungry. Try one of the house-made craft beers.

Martín PescadorCHILEAN$$$

(%65-721-279; Balmaceda 603; mains CH$10,000-13,000; hdinner Nov-April; v) S

This locavore eatery is taking some exciting risks with a rotating menu featuring local products you will see nowhere else. Think honey from local michay flowers, forest mushrooms, nalca fruit, rabbit and traditional Huilliche seafood. There’s nice low-lit ambience with a roaring log fire. The four-course meal option (CH$30,000) offers a good sampling, with vegetarian options (ask ahead).

Cafe MandalaCAFE

(Cerda s/n; h11am-8pm Mon-Fri, noon-8pm Sat & Sun)

Wake up happy with the espresso drinks from this tiny plaza-front cafe, also serving juices, cakes and grilled cheeses.

Sur AndesCAFE, BAR

(%cell 9-7479-1638; Cerda 308; h1pm-4am Mon-Sat; W)

An adorable cafe and bar with a homespun feel and pub fare.

8Information

BancoEstado (cnr O’Higgins & Manuel Rodríguez; h9am-2pm Mon-Fri) Bring all the money you’ll need; this is the only choice for changing money and locals report that foreign cards often have problems at the ATM.

Post Office (%65-223-7629; Balmaceda 501; h9am-1pm & 3-7pm Mon-Fri) Helpful with bus schedules and ticket sales for buses and ferries.

Tourist Office (%65-223-7629; O’Higgins 536; h9am-9pm) Helpful, with information on cabins, activities and descriptions of local treks.

8Getting There & Away

Bus schedules change frequently: be alert.

To Chaitén, Bus D&R (%65-238-0898, cell 9-9883-2974; Manuel Rodríguez s/n; h9am-noon & 3-7pm) goes almost daily at 6am (CH$2200, three hours). Buses Becker (%65-272-1360; www.busesbecker.com; cnr Balmaceda & Prat; h9am-1pm & 3-7pm) goes to Coyhaique (CH$24,000, 10 hours) on Sundays at 11am via Villa Santa Lucía (1½ hours), La Junta and Puyuhuapi. Buses Jerry (Lautaro s/n) goes to Palena (CH$2500, two hours) three times per week. (There’s no office, the bus stops on the street.) To Puerto Montt, Buses Apsa goes to Puerto Montt (CH$18,000, 10 hours) on Tuesday and Friday at 7:30am; buy the ticket at the post office. Bus Río Palena (%cell 9-9321-0621; Carrera 500; h8am-7pm) makes the same trip, starting in Palena and driving via Argentina on Sundays at 8am.

International buses (%65-272-1458; Cerda 436; CH$2500) to the Argentine border (15 minutes) currently leave on Mondays and Fridays at 9am and 7pm. On the Argentine side, Transportes Jacobsen (%02945-454676) takes passengers to Trevelín and Esquel. The Futaleufú border post (Ruta Internacional s/n; h8am-8pm) is far quicker and more efficient than the crossing at Palena, opposite the Argentine border town of Carrenleufú.

There’s a Copec gas station on the road to the border. Note that gas is cheaper in Argentina.

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

PALENA

A quiet mountain town on its namesake turquoise river, Palena’s draw is exploring its verdant valleys on foot or horseback, where you’ll find remnants of pioneer lifestyle and real hospitality. The rodeo, held on the last weekend in January, and the weeklong Semana Palena, in late February, feature cowboy festivities and live music.

On the plaza, the tourism office (%65-274-1221; www.municipalidadpalena.cl; O’Higgins 740; h8am-1pm & 2-5pm Mon-Fri) arranges horse packing, rafting and fishing trips with local guides. Allow some lead time before your trip, since some rural outfitters must be reached by radio.

Raft or float (CH$14,000) the turquoise waters of the Río Palena with Auquinco (%cell 9-9514-7274; www.auquinco-patagonia-turismo.com/index.html; Palena; CH$17,000) and seasoned guide Jorge Vásquez. He also offers fly-fishing (two guests CH$120,000) from November to April and horseback riding. Costs include transfers, guided trip and meals.

For a remote pioneer adventure, ride or hike 5km to Rincon de la Nieve (%cell 9-8186-4942; rincondelanieve@hotmail.com; Valle Azul; per person incl breakfast CH$18,000), the wonderful Casanova farm in Valle Azul. Ride horses, visit a waterfall and round up cattle or continue on the trail to remote Lago Palena. Meals (CH$7000) feature fresh local ingredients. Horses are extra. Since there’s no phone service on-site, all trips must be arranged in advance. Visitors can also arrange a three-day package (per person CH$108,000) that includes rides and farm activities. Arrive at the trailhead, at the junction of El Tigre and Azul rivers, by 4WD or take a transfer from Palena (total CH$20,000).

In town, sleep at La Chilenita (%cell 9-6777-9112; Pudeto 681; per person without bathroom CH$10,000; W), where Señora Elena takes guests into her snug home like wayward chicks. Next door, Restaurante Al Paso (%65-274-1226; Pudeto 661; menú CH$7000; W) serves up home cooked meals. It also rents adequate rooms upstairs (CH$15,000).

Buses Palena (%65-741-319; Plaza de Armas) travel to Chaitén (CH$2000, three hours) from the Plaza de Armas at 6:45am Monday, Wednesday and Friday. From Chaitén, the bus departs at 3:30pm each Wednesday and Friday.

La Junta

%67 / POP 914

With the slow feel of a Rocky Mountain backwater, La Junta is a former estancia (grazing ranch) that formed a crossroads for ranchers headed to market. Midway between Chaitén and Coyhaique, it’s also an important transfer point for north–south connections, with solid lodging options. Unmistakable with its centerpiece monument to Pinochet, it now serves as a major fuel-and-rest stop for travelers, replete with old-fashioned hardware stores and a rocky butte bookending town.

2Activities

Visitors can take float trips on Río Palena, go fly-fishing or hike in area reserves. Brown, rainbow and Chinook trout abound at Reserva Nacional Lago Rosselot and Lago Verde.

Termas del SauceHOT SPRINGS

(%cell 9-9454-2711; Camino a Raúl Marín Balmaceda, Km17; per person CH$5000; h10:30am-8:30pm)

Private hot springs with pleasant but rustic pools and camping (CH$10,000 including hot springs) on a brook 17km out of town toward Raúl Marín Balmaceda. Campers can enjoy the pools after hours and have the use of a quincho (outdoor kitchen/grill) for cooking.

Yagan ExpeditionsADVENTURE

(%67-231-4352; www.yaganexpeditions.com; 5 de Abril 350; hhours vary)

Small tour operator providing horseback riding, trekking and hot-springs trips, as well as kayaking on Lago Rosselot.

zFestivals & Events

Ruta de PalenaSPORTS

(Tourist Kiosk; hearly Feb)

Celebrates the two rivers that converge in La Junta, with a collective four-day floating trip with camping on the Río Palena from Palena all the way down to the sea at Raúl Marín Balmaceda. There are barbecues and folk performances. For details, ask the tourism office in La Junta.

4Sleeping & Eating

Mi Casita de Té AlojamientoHOTEL$

(%67-231-4206; www.facebook.com/micasita.dete; Carretera Austral s/n; d/q incl breakfast CH$35,000/55,000; W)

These two-story rooms along the main road offer good value, alongside a restaurant of the same name that’s the town hub.

Hostería Mirador del RíoFARMSTAY$

(%cell 9-6177-6894; www.miradordelrio.cl; Camino a Raúl Marín Balmaceda, Km6; r per person without bathroom incl breakfast CH$15,000, 3-person cabins CH$60,000) S

Retreat from the dusty Carretera Austral to this charming farmhouse run on solar and generator power. The family is lovely and breakfast satisfies with homemade jam and bread hot out of the woodstove. The son is a guide offering float trips down the mellow Río Palena or sportfishing. It’s outside town, on the way to Raúl Marín Balmaceda.

There’s also a hike to an alpine lake (6km round-trip).

Hospedaje Tía LetyGUESTHOUSE$

(%cell 9-8763-5191; Varas 596; r per person without bathroom incl breakfast CH$15,000; W)

A friendly family setting, with bulky beds in well-kept rooms. Breakfast, with homemade küchen (sweet, German-style cakes), jam and bread, is filling and Tía Lety is a top-notch host. Also offers empanadas and dinners with advance notice.

Alto Melimoyu HotelB&B$$

(%67-231-4320; www.altomelimoyu.cl; Carretera Austral 375; s/d incl breakfast CH$42,000/55,000; W)

A design B&B on the Carretera Austral, though set back enough to almost forget it’s there. A wooden hot tub and sauna are rented by the hour. Visitors have found it closed sporadically, so check ahead for opening days.

oEspacio y TiempoLODGE$$$

(%67-231-4141; www.espacioytiempo.cl; Carretera Austral s/n; s/d/tr incl breakfast US$115/148/192; W)

This well-heeled and comfortable lodge relaxes visiting anglers and travelers with classical music, sprawling green gardens and a well-stocked bar. Rooms here feature muted tones and top-quality mattresses. Further perks include private porches and an abundant buffet breakfast with real coffee. The hosts happily arrange local excursions and provide helpful tips.

The on-site restaurant is popular with locals; specialties include homemade venison ravioli with mushroom sauce, but there are also enticingly big bowls of salad.

Mi Casita de TéCHILEAN$$

(%cell 9-7802-0488; Carretera Austral s/n; menú CH$8000; h9am-midnight)

Eliana and her flock cook and serve abundant, fresh meals and even espresso. In summer there are lovely salads with organic lettuce and fresh rhubarb juice. The beef cazuela (stew), with corn cobs, fresh peas and cilantro, is satisfying Chilean comfort food. Unfortunately, portions are not always equal for all patrons.

8Information

Conaf (%67-231-4128; Lynch s/n; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri) Has details on nearby parks and reserves.

Tourist Kiosk (cnr Portales & 1 de Noviembre; h9am-9pm Mon-Fri, 10:30am-7:30pm Sat & Sun Dec-Feb) On the plaza, with information on buses, lodgings and activities.

8Getting There & Away

There is no bus terminal here; ask locals for schedules and catch a bus passing by.

Buses traveling between Chaitén (CH$12,000, three hours north) and Coyhaique (CH$10,000, six hours south) ply this mostly paved route. At the time of writing, Cuesta de Queulat, a short mountain section between La Junta and Puyuhuapi, was still unpaved.

To Raúl Marín Balmaceda (CH$3000, up to two hours), a bus departs on Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 3pm, with a short, free ferry crossing.

WORTH A TRIP

RAÚL MARÍN BALMACEDA

The long-isolated island village of Raúl Marín Balmaceda now has road access and it’s well worth the detour. At the mouth of the Río Palena, a watershed preserve, it’s teeming with wildlife such as otters, sea lions and Austral dolphins. For the best marine life, paddle out in a kayak or take a boat tour. The village has wide sandy streets and grassy paths to a lovely beach.

In the village, Los Lirios (%cell 9-6242-0180; violaloslirios@gmail.com; Av Central; r per person with/without bathroom incl breakfast from CH$15,000/12,000; W) offers a comfortable homestay.

On the water, Refugio Puerto Palena (%cell 9-7769-0375; born.ricardo@gmail.com; s/d US$100/120; W) is expanding its lovely B&B to an entire boutique hotel with seven large, contemporary rooms and two apartments. Oversized windows bring the fjord into the room. There’s also elevator access. It’s by reservation only. It may offer catamaran excursions.

A bus to La Junta (CH$3000) departs from the costanera (coastal road) on Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 8:30am. You can make the nearly two-hour drive yourself on a decent gravel road. There’s an obligatory ferry crossing (free) across the mouth of the Palena: day-trippers, note that it’s only open until 7pm.

Naviera Austral (%600-401-9000; www.navieraustral.cl; off Av Central; passenger/vehicle CH$7500/55,000) runs a weekly ferry to Quellón, Chiloé from the pier in town.

Puyuhuapi

%67 / POP 535

Tucked into the Jurassic scenery of overgrown ferns and nalca plants, this quaint seaside village is the gateway to Parque Nacional Queulat and Termas de Puyuhuapi, a prestigious hot-springs resort. In 1935 four German immigrants settled here, inspired by explorer Hans Steffen’s adventures. The town sits at the northern end of the Seno Ventisquero, a scenic fjord that’s part of the larger Canal Puyuhuapi.

1Sights & Activities

Fábrica de AlfombrasHISTORIC SITE

(%cell 9-9359-9515; www.puyuhuapi.com; Aysen s/n; h9am-noon & 3-6:30pm Mon-Fri)

The skilled Chilote textile workers fed the success of the 1947 German carpet factory, still weaving high-end handmade rugs. They are sold online, but visits to the factory are sometimes permitted.

Termas del VentisqueroHOT SPRINGS

(%cell 9-7966-6805; www.termasventisqueropuyuhuapi.cl; CH$18,000; h9am-11pm Dec-Feb, reduced winter hr)

Located roadside on the Carretera Austral, 6km south of Puyuhuapi, with one big pool and three small pools facing the sound. The water is 36°C to 40°C and there are adequate changing rooms with showers and lockers.

Experiencia AustralKAYAKING

(%cell 9-8258-5799, cell 9-7766-1524; http://experienciaustral.com; Av Otto Uebel 36; h9am-1pm & 2-7pm)

Adventure tours include kayaking the fjord (CH$25,000 for five hours), visits to Ventisquero hot springs by kayak and trips to Parque Nacional Queulat to paddle in Laguna Ventisquero Colgante (CH$12,000). Also rents bicycles (CH$2000 per hour) and sit-on-top kayaks (CH$6000 per hour).

WORTH A TRIP

TERMAS DE PUYUHUAPI HOTEL & SPA

Chile’s leading hot-springs resort, the luxurious Termas de Puyuhuapi Hotel & Spa (%67-232-5117, 67-232-5103; www.puyuhuapilodge.com; d US$320, all-inclusive per person per day US$850) sits in a lush forest on the western shore of the Seno Ventisquero. Access is by boat only. Buildings combine the rustic look of Chilote palafitos (houses on stilts) with Bavarian influences. Most guests book package vacations, making one-night reservations sometimes scarce. Boat transfers are included.

Three outdoor baths, including a fern-shaded hot-mud lagoon, sit right by the water, allowing visitors to soak and steam away then jump into the cool sound. The indoor spa is more elaborate but less ambient. Families frequent its cold-water pools, Jacuzzis and one large pool with different jets. Spa treatments and massages cost extra.

Day use is not offered in high season (January and February) or during high occupancy. Day-trippers get use of the outdoor pools (CH$50,000), transportation and lunch. Food is served at the hotel restaurant and a cheaper cafe.

Access via boat from the Bahía Dorita mainland dock, 13km south of Puerto Puyuhuapi. Launches leave between 10am and 6pm.

4Sleeping

Los Mañíos del QueulatHOTEL$

(%cell 9-9491-1920; Circunvalación s/n; d incl breakfast with/without bathroom CH$45,000/35,000; W)

Above the cafe, these six new rooms feature Berber carpeting and handsome rustic furniture made by the owner himself. Beds have good mattresses and down duvets. Breakfast is abundant.

Hostal ComuyhuapiGUESTHOUSE$

(%cell 9-7766-1984; www.comuyhuapi.cl; Llautureo 143; tw/d CH$35,000/40,000; W)

A solid bargain option, this annex to a family home has decent doubles and twin rooms, and on-site meal service with generous country-style cooking and fresh bread.

Camping La SirenaCAMPGROUND$

(%67-232-5100, cell 9-7880-6251; Av Costanera 148; campsites per person CH$5000)

Sites are cramped, but there are tent shelters, bathrooms and hot showers. Enter via the road passing the playground to the water.

Casa LudwigGUESTHOUSE$$

(%67-232-5220; www.casaludwig.cl; Av Otto Uebel 202; s/d CH$30,000/54,000, without bathroom from CH$20,000/30,000; hOct-Mar)

A historic landmark, this classic home is elegant and snug, with roaring fires in the sprawling living room and big breakfasts at the communal table. Prices correspond to room size. The English- and German-speaking owners can help with tour arrangements, but be warned, their retirement is imminent.

Cabañas AonikenkCABIN$$

(%67-232-5208; www.aonikenkpuyuhuapi.cl; Hamburgo 16; d/cabins incl breakfast CH$54,000/80,000; W)

Hosted by the amicable Verónica, these all-wood cabins have local log furniture, snug white bedding and small balconies. Guests have use of a grill and kitchen while the on-site cafe offers cake and coffee. Helpful with tourism information.

5Eating

Los Mañíos del QueulatCAFE$$

(%cell 9-7664-9866; Circunvalación s/n; mains CH$8000; hnoon-4pm & 7-10pm)

An attentive family-run cafe serving burgers, heaping plates of beef or pork chops, and an appealing selection of homemade desserts and real coffee. Adults can try a Hopper Dietzel, Puyuhuapi’s local beer. There’s a kids menu too.

El MuelleSEAFOOD$$

(%cell 9-7654-3598; Av Otto Uebel s/n; mains CH$8000; hnoon-10pm Tue-Sun)

If the merluza on your plate were any fresher, it would still be in the fjord. Despite slow service, it’s worth hunkering down to a big seafood meal served with mashed potatoes or crisp fries. The shingled house surrounded by overgrown flowerbeds sits in front of the police station.

8Information

There’s free wi-fi on the plaza.

One of Patagonia’s best public information centers, the tourist office (www.puertopuyuhuapi.cl; Av Otto Uebel s/n; h9am-9pm) has comprehensive information on lodgings, hot springs and restaurants. Offers maps to the town walking circuit.

8Getting There & Away

The road around Puyuhuapi, between La Junta and Parque Nacional Queulat, is under construction until 2025, with sections closed to traffic during established hours. Check with tourism offices and hotels for closure information and schedules, and be prepared for delays.

Buses that run between Coyhaique and Chaitén will drop passengers in Puyuhuapi along Av Otto Uebel, the main road. Buy your return ticket as far ahead as possible, as demand exceeds availability in summer. Buses Becker (%67-223-2167; www.busesbecker.com; Av Otto Uebel s/n) goes to Chaitén on Thursdays at noon and also goes to Futaleufú once a week. Northbound buses pass through La Junta, including Entre Verdes (%cell 9-9510-3196; stopping Av Otto Uebel). Terra Austral (%67-225-4335; Av Otto Uebel s/n, Nido de Puyes supermarket) leaves at 6am daily for Coyhaique, while Buses Becker goes on Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 3:30pm.

DESTINATION	COST (CH$)	HOURS
Chaitén	15,000	5
Coyhaique	9000	4-5
Futaleufú	15,000	6
La Junta	2000	1

Parque Nacional Queulat

The 1540-sq-km Parque Nacional Queulat (www.conaf.cl/parques/parque-nacional-queulat; CH$5000; h8:30am-5:30pm) is a wild realm of rivers winding through forests thick with ferns and southern beech. When the sun comes out it’s simply stunning, with steep-sided fjords flanked by creeping glaciers and 2000m volcanic peaks. The park straddles the Carretera Austral for 70km, midway between Chaitén and Coyhaique.

Created in 1983, the park is extremely popular but its far-flung location keeps it within reach of few. Visitors are challenged by the almost-constant rain (up to 4000mm per year) and impenetrable foliage. Despite its impressive size, hiking trails are few. Conaf has struggled to maintain trailhead signs, most of which are either hidden by the aggressive growth or missing.

2Activities

Near the information center, there’s a quick walk to a lookout of the Ventisquero Colgante, the main attraction of the hanging glacier. You can also take the bridge across Río Ventisquero and follow a 3.2km trail along the crest of a moraine on the river’s north bank for great glacier views. At Laguna de Los Témpanos, there are boat cruises (CH$5000, summer only) to the glacier.

North of the southern entrance, at Carretera Austral Km170, a damp trail climbs the valley of the Río de las Cascadas through a dense forest of delicate ferns, copihue vines, tree-size fuchsias, podocarpus and lenga. The heavy rainfall percolates through the multistoried canopy. After about half an hour, the trail emerges at an impressive granite bowl where six waterfalls drop from hanging glaciers.

Top-notch fishing can be found at the larger streams, such as the Río Cisnes, and the glacial fingers of Lago Rosselot, Lago Verde and Lago Risopatrón.

4Sleeping

Camping VentisqueroCAMPGROUND$

(campsites CH$5000)

Near the Ventisquero Colgante, 10 attractive private sites have covered barbecues, picnic tables and hot showers. Firewood is available. Sites are a bit rocky for pitching multiple tents.

Camping AngosturaCAMPGROUND$

(Lago Risopatrón; campsites CH$5000)

Located in a sopping rainforest, 15km north of Puerto Puyuhuapi, but the facilities are good, with firepits and hot showers.

8Information

The Centro de Información Ambiental (h8:30am-5:30pm), 22km south of Puerto Puyuhuapi and 2.5km from the road, at the parking lot for the Ventisquero Colgante, is the main center to the park and where admission fees are collected. It is well organized, has informative displays of plants and glacial activity, and rangers can help with hiking plans.

8Getting There & Away

Buses connecting Chaitén (four hours north) and Coyhaique (4½ hours south) will drop passengers here. In summer don’t arrive late in the day to camp – spots fill in the morning and there’s no onward transportation. Buy tickets for your onward bus ahead in Puyuhuapi, if possible.

Heading south, the road zigzags up the Portezuelo de Queulat between Km175 and Km178, with outstanding views of the Queulat Valley. One of the few areas yet to be paved on the Carretera Austral north of Coyhaique, it’s narrow and treacherous.

Around Parque Nacional Queulat

This rural region offers travelers a final taste of the lush landscapes of Northern Patagonia before the landscape transitions to steppe in Coyhaique. South of Parque Nacional Queulat, the road splits at the turnoff for Puerto Cisnes. From here to Coyhaique it’s all paved. Villa Amengual is a pioneer village with a Chilote-style shingled chapel, basic family-run lodgings and rudimenatry services. It’s at the foot of 2760m Cerro Alto Nevado.

A further 13km south of Villa Mañihuales, the Carretera Austral splits. The highway southwest to Puerto Aisén and Puerto Chacabuco is also paved. Access to Coyhaique takes an incredibly scenic route crossing the Andes through primary forest thick with ferns and lianas.

An island sanctuary with hot springs and trails, Parque Nacional Isla Magdalena (%in Coyhaique 67-221-2109; www.conaf.cl/parques/parque-nacional-isla-magdalena-2) makes an engaging trip for adventurers, but there is little infrastructure from Conaf and boat hire is expensive. Acces is via Puerto Cisnes, an industrial salmon-farming area 35km west of the Carretera Austral linked by a paved road. Buses from La Junta (three hours) arrive here daily.

4Sleeping

Aonikenk KarhoCABINS$

(%in Puyuhuapi 67-232-5208; Carretera Austral, Km198; campsites per person CH$5000, dm/cabins Ch$10,000/15,000; hclosed May)

Like birdhouses for humans, these simple cabins hang above the ferns with the forest fairies. Backpackers brave some sketchy footing for the secret views of Glaciar Queulat. A staircase through the rainforest leads far past the shared bathrooms and quincho to bunks and camping platforms. Bring your own sleeping bag. It’s 2km south of Parque Nacional Queulat.

oPosada QueulatCABINS$$$

(%cell 9-9319-0297; www.posadaqueulat.cl; Carretera Austral, Km228; d incl half board CH$130,000; hSep-Apr; W)

The ultimate hideaway, these rustic cabins along the fjord exude serenity. Ample lodgings are well spaced for privacy and feature wood stoves. Service is friendly and highly personalized. There are kayaks for guided trips (CH$25,000), boat excursions (from CH$30,000) and guided walks to a waterfall (CH$15,000). The satellite internet doesn’t always work well, but that’s hardly why you’re here.

Los TorreonesLODGE$$$

(%cell 9-9829-3263, cell 9-9873-9031; www.flyfishpatagonia.com; Camino Turístico; 4 nights all-included double occupancy per person fisher/nonfisher US$2700/1050; hNov-May)

A good option for fly-fishing and horseback riding just past the turnoff for Puerto Aisén, Los Torreones is a comfortable lodge in the bucolic countryside along the Río Simpson. For those serious about casting, it’s paradise. From Coyhaique it’s 42km to the Camino Turístico; take your first left.

8Getting There & Away

Buses traveling between Puyuhuapi and Coyhaique stop along this route. Check with locals for exact times.

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

DRIVING TOUR: VALLE MIRTA

If you haven’t burned out on driving yet, there are some beautiful routes that take you into the remote Patagonia of yesteryear. Take the Carretera Austral north 12km to Valle Mirta, follow to Lago Verde and return via Lago Rosselot. Enjoy the views of hulking Melimoyu volcano, lazy rivers and remote homesteads dotting the way. This 52km clockwise route takes about five hours, and a 4WD vehicle is best.

Coyhaique

%67 / POP 53,715

The cow town that kept growing, Coyhaique is the regional hub of rural Aisén, urbane enough to house the latest techie trends, mall fashions and discos. All this is plopped in the middle of an undulating range, with rocky humpback peaks and snowy mountains in the backdrop. For the visitor, it’s the launch pad for far-flung adventures, be it fly-fishing, trekking the ice cap or rambling the Carretera Austral to its southern end at Villa O’Higgins.

For those fresh from the rainforest wilderness of northern Aisén, it can be a jarring relapse into the world of semi trucks and subdivisions. Rural workers come to join the timber or salmon industries and add to the growing urban mass.

Coyhaique

2Activities, Courses & Tours

1 Carretera AustralC2

2Casa del Turismo RuralB2

3GeoSur ExpedicionesB4

4Patagonia Rafting ExcursionsB2

4Sleeping

5El RelojD2

6Hostal EspañolD4

7Huella PatagónicaC4

8La Estancia CabañasD3

9Raices B&BC1

5Eating

10Café ConfluenciaC2

11Café de MayoC2

12Café HolzerB2

13Carnes QueulatB3

14Casino de BomberosB2

15DalíA3

16MakoC1

17Mamma GauchaB2

18UnimarcB4

6Drinking & Nightlife

19Bajo MarquesinaC2

20Piel RojaC2

7Shopping

21Feria ArtesanalB2

22La BodeguitaA3

23ParedónB2

1Sights & Activities

At the confluence of the Río Simpson and Río Coyhaique, the sprawling city center has its plaza at the heart of a pentagonal plan. The new bike path along the Río Simpson is an excellent place to let off steam.

Many tour agencies offer day trips to Capilla de Marmol: don’t do it unless you are game to spend a punishing eight hours on the road. It’s better to head south on your own, if you can.

Mirador Río SimpsonVIEWPOINT

For prime river vistas, walk west on JM Carrera to this viewpoint.

Monumento Natural Dos LagunasWILDLIFE RESERVE

(www.conaf.cl/parques/moumento-natural-dos-lagunas; CH$3000)

Near Paso Alto Coyhaique on the Argentine border, this 181-hectare wetland reserve hosts diverse birdlife, including black-neck swans, coots and grebes. It’s an ecological transition zone from southern beech forest to semiarid steppe. Orchids abound. A short hiking trail goes to Laguna El Toro while a longer loop flanks the northern edge of Laguna Escondida. Near the entrance there’s a self-guided nature trail (1km) and picnic area.

While the park lacks regular public transportation, Coyhaique’s branch of Conaf may be able to offer suggestions for getting there.

Lago ElizaldeLAKE

One of many serene mountain lakes surrounding Coyhaique and great for trout fishing, kayaking or simply time at the beach. It’s just 33km from Coyhaique. Buses depart from the bus terminal.

Reserva Nacional CoyhaiqueNATURE RESERVE

(%67-221-2225; www.conaf.cl/parques/reserva-nacional-coyhaique; CH$3000)

Draped in lenga, ñire and coigue, the 21.5-sq-km Reserva Nacional Coyhaique has small lakes and Cerro Cinchao (1361m). The park is 5km from Coyhaique (about 1½ hours on foot), with views of town and Cerro Mackay’s enormous basalt columns in the distance. Take Av General Baquedano north, across the bridge, then go right at the gravel road, a steep climb best accessed by 4WD.

From the park entrance, it’s 2.5km to the Casa Bruja sector, where you’ll find campsites (CH$5000 per site) with fire pits, hot water, showers and bathrooms. Hike 4km through coigue and lenga forests to Laguna Verde, with picnic sites and camping with basic facilities. Hiking trails also lead to Laguna Los Sapos and Laguna Venus.

Patagonia Rafting ExcursionsRAFTING

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %cell 9-5626-9633; Paseo Horn 48; h9am-6pm)

Offers rafting on Río Simpson and guided tours of the Carretera Austral. The office is inside a local restaurant.

GeoSur ExpedicionesADVENTURE

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %cell 9-9264-8671; www.geosur.com; Simón Bolívar 521; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri)

Recommended adventure and regional-culture specialists GeoSur Expediciones offer tailored trips on the Carretera Austral, kayaking, hiking or country day trips at their adventure center located 57km south of Coyhaique. They also do multiday treks to Cerro Castillo or Jeinimeni-Chacabuco.

Alma PatagónicaTREKKING

(%cell 9-7618-3588; hcastaneda.c@gmail.com)

Trekking guide Hugo Castañeda guides four-day backpacking trips around Cerro Castillo (per person CH$300,000), glacier trips and shorter trips around Coyhaique.

Carretera AustralTOURS

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %cell 9-6636-7733; www.carretera-austral.info; 21 de Mayo 398; h9am-1pm & 3-6pm Mon-Fri)

Specialists in the Carretera Austral with good insider knowledge and ambitious plans to cover the whole region in depth, including Argentine Patagonia.

4Sleeping

Huella PatagónicaHOSTEL$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %67-223-0002, cell 9-4410-1571; Serrano 621; dm/d incl breakfast CH$18,000/49,000; pW)

A welcome addition to Coyhaique, this three-story corrugated-tin hostel has attractive, modern dorms with radiant floor heating plus lights and outlets for each bunk. The owners, Mauricio and Gabriella, have long worked in regional tourism and it shows. The on-site cafe, open to the public, serves espresso and snacks.

Hostal EspañolGUESTHOUSE$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %67-242-580; www.hostalcoyhaique.cl; Aldea 343; s/d CH$39,000/53,000; i)

Tasteful and modern, this ample wooden house has 10 rooms with fresh quilted bedding, central heating and kitschy touches. Service is good and there’s a comfortable living room to put your feet up by the crackling fire. For some reason, the hotel insists in charging IVA (impuesto de valor agregado or value-adding tax) to foreigners – though by regulation they shouldn’t.

Camping La AlboradaCAMPGROUND$

(%67-223-8868; Coyhaique–Puerto Aisén, Km1; campsites per person CH$4500)

Only 1km from the city, this campground has exceptionally clean and sheltered sites (with roofs), lots of bathrooms and individual sinks, hot showers, fire pits and electricity.

Patagonia HouseBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$

(%67-221-1488, cell 9-7659-9963; www.patagonia-house.com; Campo Alegre s/n; s/d/ste US$110/120/160, 3-person cottages US$160; W) S

Set apart from the bustle of downtown Coyhaique, this comfortable countryside lodging has a sustainable approach and understated modern style. Spacious rooms feature garden views and beautiful photographs. Breakfasts are extensive and gourmet dinners (CH$17,000) are a godsend after a long day on dusty roads. There’s also an open-air hot tub. It’s 3km from the center.

The owner Ruth also runs a travel agency specializing in Patagonian wildlife safaris and tailor-made trips.

Raices B&BB&B$$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %67-221-0490, cell 9-9619-5672; www.raicesbedandbreakfast.com; Av General Baquedano 444; s/d incl breakfast US$100/145; pW)

A central lodging that’s seen a recent renovation with a tasteful, minimalist ethos. Comfortable beds are set in large rooms accented by raw cypress wood and rustic fireplaces or space heaters. The quietest rooms are in back.

Patagonia LiveGUESTHOUSE$$

(%67-223-0892, cell 9-9886-7982; www.hostalpatagonialive.cl; Lillo 826; s/d/tr CH$37,500/55,000/75,000; W) S

Victor warmly welcomes guest into his immaculate suburban home with a guest breakfast nook. Rooms are comfortable and modern. With discounts for carbon offsets and a list of local artists who welcome visits.

La Estancia CabañasCABIN$$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %67-250-193; cabanasla@hotmail.com; Colón 166; d/tr cabins CH$30,000/40,000/50,000; W)

These rustic, well-spaced cabins fill a quiet orchard of apple trees. Two-story cabins have tiled floors, wood stoves and kitchenettes. It’s a great deal for small groups.

Pampa del CorralBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$

(%cell 9-8528-5680; www.pampadelcorral.com; Campo Alegre AB1; d incl breakfast from US$152; W) S

On the outskirts of town, this elegant home spreads out on a green property with a wooden hot tub and great city views. Ample rooms feature large picture windows, hand-painted headboards, floating side tables and Smart TV. Big breakfasts include a bounty of local products. The hotal also collects rainwater for use, composts, recycles and emphasizes organic products.

El RelojBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %67-223-1108; www.elrelojhotel.cl; Av General Baquedano 828; s/d incl breakfast US$98/125; piW)

Comfortably upscale, this lovely lodging is actually a renovated warehouse. Old rustic remnants blend with a smart, clean design and LED lighting. Think cypress walls, colonial furniture and a cozy stone fireplace. Rooms are quiet, with those upstairs boasting better light and views. The highly regarded restaurant features regional products.

5Eating

Mamma GauchaPIZZA$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %67-221-0721; www.mammagaucha.cl; Paseo Horn 47; mains CH$5000-10,000; h10am-1:30am Mon-Sat)

Fusing Patagonian lore with a sophisticated palate and reasonable prices, Mamma Gaucha could please the fussiest road warrior. Cane ceilings and whitewashed barn-board walls create a down-home setting. Start with fresh-mint lemonade, organic wine or a pint of La Tropera. The mainstay are clay-oven pizzas, but the homemade pastas and salad bowls featuring local produce are just as worthy.

Those with wheels could venture to its sister outlet and brewery, Casa Tropera, on the outskirts of town.

Café de MayoCAFE$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %cell 67-227-3020; 21 de Mayo 543; mains CH$4000-6000; h9am-10pm; Wv)

A meeting spot specializing in espresso drinks, farm-egg breakfasts or filling staples like pastel de choclo (maize casserole). There are also sandwiches, cheese boards and homemade cakes. Choose from shady outdoor tables or a cozy indoors with hanging teapots and fireplace.

AdobeBURGERS$

(%67-224-0846; Av General Baquedano 9; mains CH$7000; h1pm-1am Mon-Wed, to 2am Thu-Sat)

Oversized bacon-cheese burgers served on pillowy rolls, lamb sandwiches and surprisingly tasty roasted-vegetable burgers rule this roadhouse-style eatery. It’s also a good place to watch Chilean soccer with a beer or pisco infused with maqui berries. Good atmosphere and food available until 1am.

Café HolzerCAFE$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.holzer.cl; Dussen 317; cakes CH$2000; h9:30am-9pm Tue-Fri, 10am-9pm Sat & Sun; W)

This tiny cafe with a grassy front patio is a local favorite for sweets and caffeine. Cakes and tarts are flown in from a reputable Santiago bakery. Real coffee and noteworthy hot chocolate are served. Or sample a gourd of maté to see what all the buzz is about.

Casino de BomberosCHILEAN$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %67-223-1437; General Parra 365; mains CH$7000; h12-3:30pm)

Call it a cultural experience – this classic but windowless eatery gets packed with locals downing seafood plates or steak and eggs.

Café ConfluenciaCAFE$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %67-224-5080; 21 de Mayo 544; mains CH$5000-7000; h10:30am-10:30pm Mon-Sat)

A popular eatery with a sheltered patio serving sandwiches, tablas (cheese and meat boards), teas and fresh juices.

UnimarcSUPERMARKET$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %800-510101; Lautaro 331; h9am-9pm)

A supermarket for self-catering.

RuibarboCHILEAN$$

(%67-221-1826, cell 9-5871-1869; Av General Baquedano 208; mains CH$8000-13,000; h7:30am-8:30pm Mon-Fri, 8:30am-7pm Sat)

For wonderful, drawn-out lunches by the woodstove. Highlights include appetizers like baked razor clams with bubbling cheese or smoked salmon mixed with greens and plums. There are also pisco sours and affordable set menus for lunch. Don’t skip the rhubarb crème brûlée – the owner is an inventive pastry chef.

Carnes QueulatPARRILLA$$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %67-225-0507; www.carnesqueulat.cl; Ramón Freire 327; mains CH$6000-9000; h1-3:30pm & 7:30-11pm)

Tucked away down a gravel alleyway, this friendly plain-Jane place happens to serve the best steaks in the region. Carne a las brasas – meat attentively grilled over wood fire – is the worthy house specialty, best matched with some piping-hot homemade empanadas and the secret-recipe pisco sour.

MakoSUSHI$$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %67-2210-2936; Av General Baquedano 400; mains CH$7000-11,000; h1pm-1am Mon-Sat; v)

Nice for a light bite, this Japanese and Peruvian cafe serves sushi, fusion dishes and cocktails in a modern, minimalist space. Ceviche has ginger overtones and merluza comes in a sriracha sauce. Rolls are OK but heavy on the cream cheese.

oDalíCHILEAN$$$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %67-224-5422, cell 9-8198-2906; dalipatagonia@gmail.com; Lautaro 82; mains CH$12,000; h8-10pm Mon-Sat)

A happy surprise, dining in this chef’s home is a special event. There’s no menu, just a few well-attended candlelit tables served by the vivacious Jessica. Chef Cristian employs seasonal seafood, game and fresh local produce in innovative combinations, to delicious effect. Start with a calafate sour and end with an airy raspberry meringue.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Casa TroperaMICROBREWERY

(%cell 9-6597-0585; Teniente Vidal, Km1.5; h6pm-1am Mon-Thu, noon-2am Fri & Sat)

Local hipsters, athletes and mountain folk unite at the altar of huge stainless-steel tanks to quaff four varieties of beer made on-site in this warehouse. If you don’t have wheels, it’s a pain to get to, but if you do it could be worth it. Also has great pub food.

Bajo MarquesinaSPORTS BAR

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %67-221-0720; bajo.marquesina@gmail.com; 21 de Mayo 306; h5pm-midnight Tue-Fri, 1:30-10pm Sat & Sun)

Lovers of football, unite! With vintage photos of Patagonian cowboys playing footie and jerseys from clubs all over Chile, this sports pub and dedicated football (soccer) museum has wonderful relics of bygone eras, best enjoyed if you can get the friendly owner chatting.

Piel RojaBAR

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.pielroja.cl; Moraleda 495; h6pm-5am)

Rumbling late-night life with local youth and the occasional adventure guide. Upstairs becomes a romping dance floor in the wee hours.

7Shopping

La BodeguitaALCOHOL

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %67-221-3709; www.facebook.com/labodeguitacoyhaique; Lautaro 261; h10:30am-8:30pm Mon-Sat)

When your taste in regional souvenirs is more like a thirst, check out this cute beer-and-spirits shop that stocks a range of Patagonian craft beers as well as snacks like Wagyu beef jerky. It also has regular tastings.

ParedónGIFTS & SOUVENIRS

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %cell 9-9506-0304; Dussen 357; h10am-1pm & 3-8pm)

This adorable shop sells handmade products and books that are 100% Chilean, representing local Patagonian artists, regional books and unusual crafts.

Feria ArtesanalMARKET

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Plaza de Armas; hdaylight hours)

Artisan goods, woolens and wood carvings; shop No 15 features gorgeous original quilted banners depicting the experience of Patagonian women by Sandra Bórquez Salas.

8Information

Along Condell, between Plaza de Armas and Av General Baquedano, are a number of banks with ATMs. Get cash here; it is one of the few stops on the Carretera Austral with Visa ATM access.

Conaf (%67-221-2109; Av Ogaña 1060; h9am-8pm Mon-Sat, 10am-6pm Sun) Provides information on area parks and reserves.

Sernatur (%67-224-0298; www.recorreaysen.cl; Bulnes 35; h9am-6:30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat; W) A helpful office with lists of activity, lodging and transportation options and costs. Regional information is also available.

Municipal Tourism Office (%67-221-1253; Plaza de Armas; h9am-1pm & 3-7pm Thu-Tue) English-speaking, helpful with excursion and accommodations information.

Casa del Turismo Rural (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %cell 9-7954-4794; www.casaturismorural.cl; Plaza de Armas; h10:30am-7:30pm Mon-Fri, 2-6pm Sat) Has information about homestays and agrotourism.

Hospital Regional (%67-221-9100; Ibar 68; h24hr) Emergency is open 24 hours.

Police (%67-221-5105; Av General Baquedano 534; h24hr)

Post Office (%67-223-0013; Lord Cochrane 202; h9am-6:30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat)

Turismo Cabot (%67-223-0101; Lautaro 339; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri) A general service travel agency.

8Getting There & Away

AIR

Flights go to Balmaceda Airport (Balmaceda), 57km south of the city.

LATAM (%600-526-2000; General Parra 402; h9am-1pm & 3-6:30pm Mon-Fri, 9:30am-1pm Sat) has several daily flights (most leaving in the morning) to Puerto Montt (CH$60,000) and Santiago (CH$180,000) from the Balmaceda airport. Note that rates can be deeply discounted if purchased in-country.

Sky Airline (%67-240-827; www.skyairline.cl; Balmaceda Airport; hvary) has flights from Santiago that stop at Balmaceda Airport on the way to Punta Arenas.

Aerocord (%67-224-6300; www.aerocord.cl; General Parra 21; h9am-1pm & 3-7pm Mon-Fri) flies small craft to Villa O’Higgins (CH$28,000) on Monday and Thursday at 10am, though services were not running at the time of publication. Charter flights are available to Raúl Marín Balmaceda, Parque Nacional Laguna San Rafael and Chile Chico.

Aerovías DAP (%61-261-6100; www.aeroviasdap.cl; O’Higgins 891) flies to Balmaceda from Punta Arenas. For tickets, see its website.

BOAT

Ferries and cruises to Puerto Montt, Chiloé and Parque Nacional Laguna San Rafael leave from Puerto Chacabuco, 78km west of Coyhaique (one hour by bus); the closest regional offices are in Coyhaique.

Navimag (%in Santiago 2-2869-9908; www.navimag.com; Lillo 91, Coyhaique; ferry to Puerto Montt passenger/vehicle from CH$51,000/120,000; h9am-1pm & 3-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat) Sailing the lovely fjords and islands of Patagonia, the Puerto Chacabuco to Puerto Montt ferry takes 24 hours and goes twice weekly in high season. Cabins range from individual bunks in shared rooms to private doubles. Reserve well in advance if bringing your car.

Somarco (%67-224-7400; www.barcazas.cl/barcazas/wp/region-de-aysen/lago-general-carrera; Bilbao 736; passenger/automobile CH$2250/19,500; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri) Travelers to Chile Chico can purchase ferry tickets online. The ferry crosses Lago General Carrera between Puerto Ingeniero Ibáñez and Chile Chico almost daily, saving drivers a lot of time on bad roads. If you’re driving, make reservations a week out in summer.

BUS

Buses operate from the bus terminal (%67-225-8203; Lautaro 109; h8am-7pm) and separate offices. Schedules change continuously; check with Sernatur (%67-224-0290; Bulnes 35; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat) for the latest information. Busing in and out of Coyhaique is just about as confusing as getting around the plaza.

DESTINATION	COST (CH$)	HOURS
Chaitén	15,000	9-11
Chile Chico	6000	3½ with ferry
Cochrane	14,000	7-10
Comodoro Rivadavia (Ar)	28,000	8
La Junta	10,000	6
Puerto Ingeniero Ibáñez	5000	1¾
Puerto Montt	40,000	23
Puyuhuapi	8000	5
Villa Cerro Castillo	5000	1½

Destinations North

Companies serving destinations north:

Buses Becker (%67-223-2167; www.busesbecker.com; General Parra 335) Services north to Puyuhuapi, La Junta, Villa Santa Lucía and Chaitén. To Futaleufú (CH$24,000) once per week. Also goes to Puerto Natales (CH$60,000) and Puerto Montt.

Queilen Bus (%67-224-0760; Lautaro 109, Bus Terminal; h11:30am-1:30pm & 2:30-6:30pm Mon-Sat) Osorno (CH$40,000), Puerto Montt and Chiloé (CH$45,000) via Argentina.

Transportes Terra Austral (%67-225-4355; Lautaro 109, Bus Terminal; h9:30am-1pm & 3:30-5:30pm) To Puyuhuapi and La Junta.

Destinations South

Companies serving destinations south:

Águilas Patagónicas (%67-221-1288; www.aguilaspatagonicas.cl; Lautaro 109, Bus Terminal; h8:30am-1pm & 2:15-5pm Mon-Sat) Daily trips to Cochrane at 9:30am, with stops including Puerto Río Tranquilo (CH$10,000) and Puerto Bertrand (CH$13,000).

Buses Acuario 13/Buses Sao Paulo (%67-224-0990; Lautaro 109, Bus Terminal; h8:30am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 10am Sat) To Cochrane three times per week, stopping in Villa Cerro Castillo (CH$5000) and Puerto Guadal (CH$11,000).

Buses Don Carlos (%67-223-1981; Cruz 63) Serves Villa Cerro Castillo, Puerto Río Tranquilo, Puerto Bertrand and Cochrane.

Colectivos Puerto Ibáñez (Lautaro s/n) Door-to-door shuttle to Puerto Ingeniero Ibáñez (CH$5000, 1¾ hours), for ferry service on to Chile Chico. Or hop on in front of Unimarc.

Transaustral (%67-223-2067; Lautaro 109, Bus Terminal; h8:30am-1pm & 3-6pm) Goes to Río Mayo (five hours, CH$20,000) and Comodoro Rivadavia, Argentina (eight hours, CH$28,000), for connections to southern Argentina and Punta Arenas. Leaves Monday and Friday at 9am.

8Getting Around

TO/FROM THE AIRPORT

Door-to-door shuttle service (CH$5000, one hour) to Balmaceda Airport, 57km southeast of town, leaves two hours before flight departure. Take any airport transfer or call Transfer Velásquez (%67-225-0413, cell 9-8906-4578; Lautaro s/n; airport shuttle CH$5000) for pickup service.

A public bus (CH$2000; one hour 20 minutes) leaving from outside Arturo Prat 265 goes to the airport at 8am and noon.

BICYCLE

Figon (%67-223-4616; Simpson 888; h10am-1pm & 3-7pm Mon-Sat) rents and repairs bikes.

CAR & MOTORCYCLE

Car rental is expensive and has availability limited in summer. However, it’s a popular option since public transportation is infrequent and focused on major destinations. Shop around for the best price and, if possible, reserve ahead. Try Traeger (%67-223-1648; www.traeger.cl; Av General Baquedano 457; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat), with its own repair shop and tow service.