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Reserva Nacional Río Simpson

Rocky elephant buttes flank the lazy curves of Río Simpson in a broad valley 37km west of Coyhaique. Straddling the highway to Puerto Chacabuco, the 410-sq-km Reserva Nacional Río Simpson is an easily accessed scenic area that is popular with anglers and summer soakers. A short walk from Conaf’s Centro de Visitantes (www.conaf.cl/parques/reserva-nacional-rio-simpson; CH$3000; h10am-4pm Mon-Sat, 11am-2pm Sun) leads to Cascada de la Virgen, a shimmering waterfall on the north side of the highway.

Near the confluence of the Ríos Simpson and Correntoso, 24km west of Coyhaique, Camping Río Correntoso (%67-232-005; campsites per person CH$7000) has 50 spacious riverside sites in a bucolic setting. The showers are rustic, but hot.

Five kilometers northwest of the Centro de Visitantes, Camping San Sebastián (campsites per person CH$7000) has sheltered sites and hot showers.

To reach Reserva Nacional Río Simpson from Coyhaique, take any bus heading to destinations north on the Carretera Austral, including those for Puerto Aisén.

Parque Nacional Cerro Castillo

Cerro Castillo’s basalt spires are the crowning centerpiece of Parque Nacional Cerro Castillo (www.conaf.cl/parques/reserva-nacional-cerro-castillo; CH$3000), a sprawling 1800-sq-km park located 75km south of Coyhaique. It earned national-park status only in 2017, though park infrastructure has yet to catch up, and the most-used access points remain private property. The park boasts fine hiking in southern beech forest and open high-alpine terrain. Its namesake, the 2700m triple-tier Cerro Castillo, is flanked by three major glaciers on its southern slopes.

Hikers can complete a segment of Sendero de Chile with the 16km trail to Campamento Neozelandés. A recommended four-day Cerro Castillo Circuit trek leaves from Carretera Austral Km75, at the north end of the park, and winds around the peak via a high route passing glaciers, rivers and lakes to end in Villa Cerro Castillo. It’s also serious, remote backcountry. Before heading out, share your plans with others and check in with the ranger to avoid seasonal hazards.

Conaf operates a sheltered campground (Carretera Austral s/n; tent CH$5000) at Laguna Chaguay, 67km south of Coyhaique. It has bathrooms and hot showers.

Hikers doing the Cerro Castillo circuit can start at Laguna Chaguay and walk into Villa Cerro Castillo upon finishing. Buses traveling the Carretera Austral can leave passengers at the turnoff to the ranger station and campground. Day hikers typically start in Villa Cerro Castillo.

Villa Cerro Castillo

Under the sparkly face of Cerro Castillo, pioneer town Villa Cerro Castillo has a congenial dusty-heeled feel. It’s a good base to explore the reserve and a short distance from the Carretera Austral, 10km west of the Puerto Ingeniero Ibáñez junction. The town’s Festival Costumbrista, usually held in February, draws artists and artisans from all over Chile and Argentina.

Senderos Patagonia (%cell 9-6224-4725; www.aysensenderospatagonia.com; Carretera Austral s/n) offers horseback riding (to Laguna Castillo CH$40,000), horse packing and backpacking tours. Hiking the circuit around Cerro Castillo is done in five days (US$1300 per person, two-person minimum), with porters, food and guiding included. Senderos Patagonia offers tons of local knowledge and good service.

4Sleeping & Eating

oHostel Senderos PatagoniaHOSTEL$

(%cell 9-6224-4725; www.aysensenderospatagonia.com; Carretera Austral s/n; campsites per person CH$5000, dm CH$8000-10,000; W)

A great hub for hikers heading into Parque Nacional Cerro Castillo, this hostel also offers custom hiking tours and horse-packing trips. Guests have kitchen use and the option of bedding for CH$2000. The English- and Spanish-speaking owners also prove helpful with local information. It’s located next to the bridge on the main road through town.

The owners also manage local cabins ideal for groups and higher-end properties.

Refugio Aventura TehuelcheHUT$

(%cell 9-8411-8736; aventuratehuelche@gmail.com; Sector La Chabela; campsites per person CH$3000, dm CH$5000)

Guide Manuel Medina offers stays in a basic refugio 2km from Cerro Castillo. Located just 100m from climbing area La Chabela, it’s aimed at the climbing community. For now there’s only cold-water showers. Also helpful with trekking tips.

Baqueanos de la PatagoniaCAMPGROUND$

(%cell 9-6513-6226; Camino Sector Arroyo el Bosque; campsites per person CH$4000)

Offers camping with hot showers, barbecues and bikes. It also leads trekking trips in Parque Nacional Cerro Castillo. Outside the park it offers horseback riding and practices doma racional, a gentle horse-taming method.

Cabañas Don NibaGUESTHOUSE$

(%cell 9-9474-0408; donniba19@hotmail.com; Los Pioneros 872; d CH$23,000, r per person without bathroom CH$10,000)

This basic longtime family lodging dishes out whopping breakfasts and the company of Don Niba, guide, storyteller and grandson of pioneers. It is also opening a restaurant serving typical Chilean fare.

La Cocina de SoleFOOD TRUCK$

(%cell 9-9839-8135; Carretera Austral s/n; sandwiches CH$4000; h8:30am-8pm)

You can’t miss this roadside bus painted in swirling pastels, serving enormous steak sandwiches and juices.

La QuerenciaCHILEAN$

(%cell 9-9503-0746; Av O’Higgins 522; mains CH$6000-8000; h8am-8pm)

Cooks homemade set lunches and satisfying sit-down meals.

VillaricaCHILEAN$

(%cell 9-6656-0173; Av O’Higgins 592; mains CH$6000-9000; h9am-8pm daily)

Cooks homemade set lunches and has a menu of beef sandwiches and steak and eggs. There are also basic rooms for rent (CH$15,000 per person).

8Information

The tourist office (cnr Carretera Austral & Av O’Higgins; h10am-1pm & 2-6pm Jan & Feb) is a summer-only kiosk on the plaza.

8Getting There & Away

Buses heading north to Coyhaique (CH$5000, 1½ hours) or south to Puerto Río Tranquilo (3½ hours) pass daily.

Puerto Ingeniero Ibáñez

%67 / POP 3000

On the north shore of Lago General Carrera, sleepy Puerto Ingeniero Ibáñez (also known as Puerto Ibáñez) serves as a transit station for ferry-goers traveling to the south shore of the lake and Chile Chico. Climbers come for the new sport-climbing routes. Clobbered in Volcán Hudson’s 1991 eruption, it has since recovered.

If local handicrafts interest you, ask around for pottery artist Señora Marta Águila or weaver and herbal-remedy specialist Señora Juana Vega. It’s that informal. Locals can also point you to cave paintings or the stunning Río Ibáñez falls, 8km away.

4Sleeping & Eating

La CasonaGUESTHOUSE$

(%cell 9-7106-3591; senderospatagonia@gmail.com; Camino a Puerto Ingeniero Ibáñez; incl breakfast per person with shared bathroom CH$20,000, d/tw CH$60,000/50,000; W)

Around 1.5km after the turnoff to Ibáñez from the Carretera Austral, La Casona’s electric-pink farmhouse lodgings are hosted by the wonderful Mery. Upstairs rooms feature single beds thick with covers and flannel sheets. Rooms with private bathrooms out back meet the hotel standard, with new fixtures and huge picture windows.

Casa de Té Doña LeoTEAHOUSE$

(Camino a Puerto Ingeniero Ibáñez; high tea CH$6000; h1-3pm & 5:30-10pm Tue-Sun)

Cooking up a dozen varieties of knockout jams from local berries, Doña Leo also offers guests a classic Chilean teatime known as once with cakes, fresh bread, scrambled eggs, cheese, deli meats and that famous jam. At 1pm she also does a set lunch. It’s on the main road 800m north of town.

8Getting There & Away

Ferry Somarco crosses Lago General Carrera to Chile Chico almost daily; arrive 30 minutes predeparture. Get current ferry schedules online.

Buses to Coyhaique (%67-225-1579; ferry area) go almost daily (CH$5000, two hours) when the ferry from Chile Chico arrives.

Chile Chico

%67 / POP 4600

Bordering Argentina, this pint-sized orchard town occupies the windy southern shore of Lago General Carrera. A sunny microclimate makes it a pleasant oasis on the steppe. It is linked to Chile by ferry or a roller-coaster road. Locals who traditionally earned their living from raising livestock and farming turned to gold and silver mining. With the mines set to close, many are jumping into tourism.

Hikers shouldn’t miss the Reserva Nacional Lago Jeinimeni, 60km away, with solitary treks in an arid wonderland of flamingo-filled, turquoise mountain lagoons. Travelers can cross easily to Los Antiguos, Argentina, and onward to Ruta 40 and points south.

1Sights & Activities

Casa de la CulturaMUSEUM

(%67-241-1355; cnr O’Higgins & Lautaro; h9am-1pm & 3-6pm Mon-Fri) F

Features works by regional artists and a 2nd-floor assemblage of local artifacts, including minerals and fossils. Outside, the restored El Andes was built in Glasgow, Scotland, to navigate the Thames, but was brought here to transport passengers and freight around the lake.

Patagonia XpressADVENTURE

(%cell 9-9802-0280; www.patagoniaxpress.com; O’Higgins 333, Galería Municipal No 8; all-day trek US$80; h9am-1pm & 3-7pm)

A reputable outfitter that rents mountain bikes (full day CH$16,000) and guides hikes in Reserva Nacional Lago Jeinimeni, where it can also help hikers arrange drop-offs. Hiking tours go beyond the conventional, with routes highlighting points of historical and cultural significance. Rents out some equipment.

Turismo TramelTOURS

(%cell 9-7538-0178; www.turismotramel.cl; Manuel Rodríguez 487; tour CH$45,000; h9am-1pm & 3-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat)

This new agency does full-day tours to Capilla de Marmol in Puerto Río Tranquilo. For a one-way tour, there’s a CH$15,000 discount.

4Sleeping

Brisas del LagoGUESTHOUSE$

(%67-241-1204; brisasdellago@gmail.com; Manuel Rodríguez 443; s/d without bathroom incl breakfast CH$17,000/30,000, apt CH$40,000, d/tr cabins CH$40,000/50,000; W)

This longtime family-run lodging offers a number of good-sized rooms that are clean and comfortable. There are also cute cabins squeezed into a backyard strewn with flowerbeds. There’s central heating.

Ñandu CampHOSTEL$

(%cell 9-6779-3390; www.nanducamp.com; O’Higgins 750; dm CH$14,000, s/d without bathroom CH$20,000/30,000, q CH$45,000; W)

This friendly lodging features ample dorms and bunk beds in an octagonal space with guest kitchen. The owners run mountain huts in Reserva Nacional Lago Jeinimeni and offer extensive information for trekkers, as well as transfers to the park. Breakfast is extra (CH$2500).

Kon AikenGUESTHOUSE$

(%67-241-1598, cell 9-7571-3354; konaikenturismochilechico@gmail.com; Pedro Burgos 6; campsites per person CH$5000, r per person incl breakfast CH$15,000, 7-person cabins CH$65,000; W)

A handy lodging with a family atmosphere that’s fun and sometimes chaotic. The kind owners share the bounty of local produce and organize the occasional asado or salmon bake. A row of poplars blocks the winds for campers and there’s a quincho for cooking.

oHostería de la PatagoniaGUESTHOUSE$$

(%67-241-1337, cell 9-8159-2146; hdelapatagonia@gmail.com; Camino Internacional s/n; campsites per person CH$4000, incl breakfast r per person without bathroom CH$20,000, s/d/tr CH$45,000/62,000/76,000, cabins CH$50,000; W) S

Descendants of Belgian colonists run this sweet farmhouse with historic memorabilia and a garden hot tub. Renovated rooms feature central heating and there’s an excellent modern double made of recycled materials out back. Our favorite sleeping quarters occupy a restored boat with kitchen – charming though landlocked. They serve dinner and are very helpful with travel plans. With bicycles for guests.

El EngañoCABAñAS$$

(%cell 9-9134-8162; www.turismoelengano.com; Costanera s/n; 3-/5-person cabins CH$70,000/80,000; W)

These contemporary cabins with tasteful decor sit waterfront, and feel isolated from the city, though only about a block apart. Some units feature a kitchen, while all have Direct TV. There’s also a quincho for guest use and wooden hot tub (CH$30,000) – order it a day in advance so it’s toasty when you want it. Also has good restaurant service on-site.

La Posada del RíoHOTEL$$

(%cell 9-8945-4078; Camino Internacional, Km5; d/tr incl breakfast CH$62,000/70,000)

On the open steppe with sweeping views, this boxy newcomer has bright, attractive rooms and breakfasts with orange juice and medialunas (croissants).

5Eating

Restaurante JeinimeniPIZZA$

(%cell 9-8139-7738; Blest Gana 120; mains CH$6000-8000; h1-3pm & 7-11pm Mon-Sat)

Thin-crust pizzas come sizzling out of the stone oven, plus there’s seafood, sandwiches and Chilean classics. Not only friendly, it’s one of the few spots in Patagonia with swift service. Try the Hudson beer, a local craft brew from Puerto Ibáñez.

Casa Piedras del LagoINTERNATIONAL$$

(%67-239-4757, cell 9-9802-0280; cnr Ericksen & Portales; mains CH$8000-12,000; h1-4pm & 7pm-midnight)

This new restaurant gets creative with gourmet fare and a fine selection of wines. Start with its signature pisco sour. Options span from tender pork loin with caramelized mushrooms and rose-hip sauce, to grilled beef with morel mushrooms and seafood.

Casa NativaCHILEAN$$

(%67-241-145; Manuel Rodríguez 243; mains CH$8000; hnoon-3:30pm & 7-11pm)

A restaurant serving Chilean classics like beef or salmon with roast potatoes. Has lake views and rustic wood details.

8Information

There’s only one cash machine in town, but casas de cambio (money exchangers) line the main street.

BancoEstado (González 112; h9am-2pm Mon-Fri) Has an ATM

Conaf (%67-241-1325; Blest Gana 121; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 11am-4pm Sat) Has information on Reserva Nacional Lago Jeinimeni.

Oficina de Información Turística (%67-241-1751; www.chilechico.cl; cnr O’Higgins & Blest Ghana; h8am-1pm & 2-5pm Mon-Thu, to 4pm Fri) Offers good area information.

Sernatur (%67-241-1303; www.recorreaysen.cl; O’Higgins 333; h9am-2:30pm & 4-6:30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat) Tourism information. Shares an office with the Municipal Tourism office.

Post Office (Manuel Rodríguez 121; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri)

8Getting There & Away

Traveling the abrupt curves of Paso Las Llaves, west from Chile Chico to the junction with the Carretera Austral, is one of the region’s highlights. Scary and stunning, it hits blind corners and steep inclines on loose gravel high above the lake. There’s no guardrails, so drivers should proceed with caution.

There’s a Copec gas station near the ferry dock.

BOAT

An almost-daily ferry run by Somarco (%67-241-1093; www.barcazas.cl/barcazas/wp/region-de-aysen/lago-general-carrera; Muelle Chile Chico; passenger/automobile CH$2250/19,500) crosses Lago General Carrera to Puerto Ingeniero Ibáñez, a big shortcut to Coyhaique. If driving, make reservations a week out in summer. Arrive 30 minutes predeparture.

BUS

Bus routes are run by private individuals who have to apply for the government concession, thus providers and schedules can vary from year to year.

To Puerto Guadal (CH$8000, 2½ hours), Seguel (%67-243-1214; Av O’Higgins s/n) and Buses Eca (%67-243-1224; Av O’Higgins s/n, Bus Station) go Monday through Friday at 4pm or 5pm.

Costa Carrera (%cell 9-8739-2544; Av O’Higgins s/n, Bus Station) has service to Puerto Río Tranquilo (CH$15,000, four hours) twice a week and to Cochrane (CH$5000, four hours) three times per week.

Buses Acuña (%67-225-1579; Rodríguez 143), Transportes Alejandro (%cell 9-7652-9546) and Buses Carolina (%67-241-1490; ferry office) go to Coyhaique (CH$5000) with a ferry-bus combination (4½ hours including ferry) via Puerto Ibáñez. The ferry is not included in the ticket. Some may allow advance reservations from the Chile Chico bus terminal (Av O’Higgins s/n), though the buses depart from Puerto Ibáñez.

BORDER CROSSING

At the time of writing, no buses crossed the border to Los Antiguos, Argentina (20 minutes), just 9km east, because of new tariffs charged by Argentine authorities. Inquire locally as this situation could likely change. For now, you can take a taxi to the Chilean border (CH$6000), but have to walk 1km to the Argentine border. From there, it’s 1.5km to Los Antiguos.

From Los Antiguos, travelers can make connections in Argentina to Perito Moreno, El Chaltén and southern Argentine Patagonia.

Puerto Río Tranquilo

%67 / POP 500

A village of shingled houses on the windy western shores of Lago General Carrera, Puerto Río Tranquilo is a humble pit stop facing a whopping growth spurt. Once just a fuel stop, its growing outdoor opportunities have put it on the map. It’s the closest access point to the cool marble caves of Capilla de Mármol. More recently it’s become the launch point for more budget-minded tours to the stunning Glaciar San Rafael.

1Sights & Activities

Capilla de MármolLANDMARK

(Marble Chapel; 5 passengers CH$50,000)

Well worth the detour, these sculpted geological formations are accessible by boat on Lago General Carrera. Trips in small motorized boats or kayaks only go out in calm boating conditions. If you’re driving, continue 8km south of Puerto Río Tranquilo to the tour boats at Bahía Manso; it’s directly across from the caves and at a shorter boating distance.

Valle ExploradoresSCENIC DRIVE

This relatively new east–west road heads toward Laguna San Rafael, but stops short at a water crossing. Gorgeous but rough, it is still a worthy driving or biking detour, crowded with glaciers and overgrown nalca plants. Look out for the Glaciar Exploradores Overlook (CH$4000 trail fee) at Km52. Day-trippers to Glaciar San Rafael usually meet their outfitters at the end of the road.

El Puesto ExpedicionesADVENTURE

(%cell 9-6207-3794; www.elpuesto.cl; Lagos 258; Exploradores trek CH$70,000)

Francisco Croxatta runs reputable ice treks on Glaciar Exploradores, including transfer, kayaking to Capilla de Mármol (CH$42,000).

Lapo ExpedicionesADVENTURE

(%cell 9-5632-2337)

Experienced Spanish-speaking guide Guillermo Berracol takes visitors off the beaten path. Transport provided.

Destino PatagoniaTOUR

(%cell 9-9158-6044; www.destinopatagonia.cl; Flores 208; per person full day US$145; h10am-9pm)

Full-day tours visit the San Rafael Glacier in a covered boat, with lunch and whiskey on millennial ice. Choose transportation from Puerto Río Tranquilo or from Km77 on the Valle Exploradores road (a US$20 discount). You can also opt for a two-day trip that includes trekking or a longer three-day trip that crosses the Ofqui Isthmus.

Ruta LeónADVENTURE SPORTS

(%cell 9-9154-1734; www.facebook.com/Rutaleonpatagonia; Costanera s/n; day trip CH$55,000; h10am-1pm & 3-7pm Mon-Fri)

Offers hikes on Glaciar Exploradores.

4Sleeping

Lodging options are expanding, but there are basic guesthouses and a good inn. A German-run hostel is in the works.

Explora SurGUESTHOUSE$

(%cell 9-7649-9047; www.explorasur.cl; Carretera Austral 269; d/tw incl breakfast CH$45,000/50,000; W)

Right on the water, these smart, modern rooms with central heating are a comfortable and toasty choice. A shared balcony overlooks the lake. Offers boat trips to the marble caves from its private dock.

Camping PuduCAMPGROUND$

(%cell 9-8920-5085; https://es-la.facebook.com/campingpudu; campsites per person CH$8000; hmid-Nov–Mar)

Attractive beach camping with hot showers, laundry service and sauna (CH$12,000), 1km southeast of Puerto Río Tranquilo. Offers tourist information. Takes credit cards.

Residencial DarkaGUESTHOUSE$

(%cell 9-9126-5292; Los Arrayanes 330; r per person CH$10,000; W)

Family-run, with clean rooms. The pastels and lace provide a good dose of kitsch.

oEl PuestoINN$$

(%cell 9-6207-3794; www.elpuesto.cl; Pedro Lagos 258; s/d/tr/q incl breakfast US$127/168/225/266; W) S

This smart 10-room hotel pampers with woolen slippers, hand-woven throws and rockers. There’s even a swing set for kids. English-speaking owners Francisco and Tamara also run reputable tours to Glaciar Exploradores and kayaking to the marble caves. Dinner (CH$19,000) is available with reservations; they also offer massage and rent local cabins. This sustainable lodging uses solar energy and recycles.

5Eating & Drinking

Donde KikeCHILEAN$

(Godoy 25; menú CH$6000; h11am-7pm)

This small cafe in front of the gas station does decent Chilean classics – from soups to meat or fish with rice and potatoes – with the limited ingredients that arrive in the region.

oMate y TrucoCAFE$$

(%cell 9-9078-5698; Carretera Austral 269; mains CH$8000-12,000; hnoon-11pm)

This cheerful button-sized cafe redeems the local dining scene with its thin-crust pizza, homemade gnocchi and steak with morel-mushroom sauce. It’s just a two-woman show, so chill with a local microbrew or espresso drink while you wait. There are also real salads, sandwiches and huge milanesas (schnitzels). They can also cater to special diets.

Cervecería Río TranquiloCRAFT BEER

(%cell 9-5159-2351; Carretera Austral s/n; hnoon-1am)

Facing the tourism kiosk, this welcoming pub slash man-cafe makes beer on-site, served with intimidating plates of chorrillana: a bomb of fries with meat or fried onions and peppers topped with a few fried eggs.

8Information

There’s no ATM. Tourism Kiosk (Av Costanera s/n; h10am-1pm & 2-6:30pm Tue-Sun Dec-Mar) ppens sporadically, but has info about lodging, alternate transportation (including vans to Valle Exploradores) and tours to the Capilla de Mármol.

8Getting There & Away

Regular buses between Coyhaique (CH$10,000, five hours) and Cochrane (CH$8000, three hours) will drop off and pick up passengers here. To Coyhaique, Vidal (%cell 9-9932-9896; cnr Godoy & Exploradores) and minibus Pato Aventuras (%cell 9-8755-9453; CH$10,000) travel twice weekly. Coyhaique-bound buses originating further south usually pass at around 10am. Buses heading further south pass between 1pm and 2pm.

Costa Carrera has services to Chile Chico (CH$15,000, four hours) twice a week.

Parque Nacional Laguna San Rafael

Awesome and remote, this national park (www.conaf.cl/parques/parque-nacional-laguna-san-rafael; CH$7000) brings visitors face to face with the 30,000-year-old San Valentín glacier in Chile’s Campo de Hielo Norte. Established in 1959, the 12,000-sq-km Unesco Biosphere Reserve is a major regional attraction. The park encompasses peaty wetlands, pristine temperate rainforest of southern beech and epiphytes, and 4058m Monte San Valentín, the southern Andes’ highest peak. Scientific interest centers on the extreme fluctuation in water level of the glacier-fed lagoon.

Until recently, getting here was expensive and time consuming, but a road built through Valle Exploradores has created options to go overland with a little help from tour operators in Puerto Río Tranquilo. Visitors who arrive by cruise shift to smaller craft to approach the glacier’s 60m face. Stay overnight to hear the sighs, splintering and booms of calving ice.

TTours

Multiday cruises sail from Puerto Chacabuco and Puerto Montt. Check the companies’ websites for departures and student/senior discounts.

In Puerto Río Tranquilo, Destino Patagonia offers day trips and overnight tours.

Cruceros SkorpiosCRUISE

(%in Santiago 2-2477-1900; www.skorpios.cl; 6-day, 5-night cruise d occupancy from US$4400)

Sailing its Chonos route, named for the original inhabitants of the area, the luxuriant Skorpios II sails from Puerto Montt, spending all of the third day at the glacier. A highlight is the stop at Quitralco, Skorpios’ private hot-springs resort. On the return it visits the island of Chiloé.

Catamaranes del SurCRUISE

(%67-235-1112; www.catamaranesdelsur.cl; JM Carrera 50, Puerto Chacabuco; glacier day trip per person CH$200,000; h9am-6pm)

Runs a 12-hour day trip from Puerto Chacabuco on the Catamarán Chaitén and the smaller Iceberg Expedition, with deep discounts in low season. Daytime travel ensures fjord views, but less time at the glacier face. There’s also lodging at the exclusive but nondescript Loberías del Sur and visits to its private park Aikén. Offers senior discounts.

4Sleeping

There’s camping (per site CH$5000) near the Conaf office by the airstrip. Five rustic campsites have water and bathrooms. Fires are not allowed and no food is available at the park.

8Getting There & Away

A 78km gravel road travels Valle Exploradores from Puerto Río Tranquilo. The route makes day trips possible from Río Tranquilo: outfitters provide a necessary boat crossing to continue on from where the road ends at Bahía Exploradores.

If you drive, a high-clearance 4WD is best. There’s no public transportation, and tour operators in Puerto Río Tranquilo charge extra for transportation. Note: at Km75 there’s a bridge that larger vehicles like Sprinter vans and mobile homes can’t cross.

Puerto Guadal

Windy but damn-postcard-beautiful, Puerto Guadal is located at the southwest end of Lago General Carrera on the road to Chile Chico, 13km east of the Carretera Austral. The village appears to hold siesta at all hours, but cool accommodations, nearby fossil hikes and glaciers can keep a visitor very entertained.

Adventure outfitter Kalen Turismo Aven-tura (%67-243-1289, cell 9-8811-2535; turismokalenpatagonia@gmail.com; Los Alerces 557; h9am-9pm) is run by reputable guide Pascual Díaz. He offers horseback riding, glacier trips and hikes to a beautiful fossil bed. Contact in advance (the small office closes during outings).

4Sleeping

Destino No TurísticoHOSTEL$

(%cell 9-7392-5510; www.destino-noturistico.com; Camino Laguna La Manga, Km1; campsites per person CH$5500, dm/d CH$25,000/60,000) S

A lovely countryside getaway, this eco-camp offers true off-grid living, with solar showers and composting toilets. The hostel is impeccable, with comfortable beds with individual reading lamps and kitchen use. Now run by a Swedish-French couple, there’s a strong educational component with workshops on organic farming, permaculture, reforestation, meditation and Kundalini yoga.

It’s situated 1.5km from town, an uphill walk, though pickups are available from the main road (CH$5000). Cars park outside the entrance gate.

Terra LunaCABIN$$

(%67-243-1263; www.terra-luna.cl; campsites per site CH$10,000, incl breakfast 2-person huts US$70, domos US$120, d/tr from US$100/120; W)

Lakeside adventure lodge Terra Luna presents the option of perfect repose or an adrenaline rush. Lodgings vary from smart apartments to cabins and domos, with the option of a lakefront wood-fired hot tub. The restaurant serves a set menu nightly. Campsites and adorable budget-oriented huts with kitchen suit budget travelers, though spots are few.

With sprawling grounds, there is also a play area, kayaks and ziplines. Run by Azimut, a French-owned guide service, there are frequent excursions. We prefer the hiking option to Glaciar Los Leones to the jet-boat option. There are also helicopter trips to Campo de Hielo Norte. It’s 1.5km from Puerto Guadal toward Chile Chico.

El Mirador de GuadalLODGE$$$

(%2-2813-7920; www.elmiradordeguadal.com; Camino a Chile Chico, Km2; d from US$115/130)

This handsome lodge is known for friendly, professional service. It’s in a top-notch location along Lago General Carrera with views of Monte San Valentín, private beach access and assistance arranging guided excursions. Restaurant service features meals prepared with produce from the on-site garden.

8Getting There & Away

Buses leave from ECA (%67-252-8577, cell 9-8418-1967; Las Magnolias 306), heading north to Coyhaique (CH$12,000, six hours) four times per week in the morning. Bus services that are southbound pass the crossroads just outside of town, to Cochrane (CH$6000, two hours) starting at around 2pm. Both Buses Eca and Seguel (%67-231-1214; Los Notros 560) service Chile Chico (CH$8000, 2½ hours) on weekdays at 7:30am.

Always confirm bus times and days as they change frequently.

Puerto Bertrand & Río Baker

%67 / POP 300

On the bank of the ultramarine-blue Lago Bertrand below snow-covered San Valentín and Campo de Hielo Norte, Puerto Bertrand is a show of contrasts. Weathered shingle homes overgrown with rose blossoms and high-end fishing lodges share the space of this humble stop. Bertrand occupies the southeast shore of the lake, situated 11km south of Cruce el Maitén. It is also the base for rafting Río Baker, Chile’s most voluminous river.

The Río Baker flows from Lago Bertrand, running parallel to the Carretera Austral south toward Cochrane. Lodges and a museum flank this scenic strip.

1Sights & Activities

oLa ConfluenciaLANDMARK

(The Confluence)

Don’t miss this dramatic viewpoint, where Chile’s most powerful river, the Baker, froths into a broad, behemoth cascade before merging with the milkier, glacial-fed Río Nef in a swirling contrast of mint and electric blue. It’s 12km south of Puerto Bertrand. Park roadside and follow the 800m trail.

Museo Pioneros del BakerMUSEUM

(www.fundacionriobaker.cl; Carretera Austral s/n; hby request) F

In a pioneer house, this adorable cultural museum packs in engaging details, from Patagonian sayings to pioneer relics and molds of animal tracks. It’s all in Spanish. For the key, go to the caretaker’s house out back. It’s located roadside between Puerto Bertrand and the entrance to Valle Chacabuco/Patagonia National Park.

Baker Patagonia AventuraRAFTING

(%cell 9-8817-7525; www.bakerpatagonia.cl; Costanera s/n; half-day rafting CH$28,000; h9:30am-9pm)

Leads five-day and one-day (Class III) rafting trips on the Río Baker. The office faces Lago Bertrand.

Patagonia Adventure ExpeditionsADVENTURE

(%cell 9-8182-0608; www.patagoniaadventureexpeditions.com)

A pioneering high-end adventure outfitter adding scientific support and education to the mix, with a Wilderness Experience Center under construction. There are fixed dates for horseback treks through Aysén Glacier Trail and ice-to-sea floating on the Río Baker. The base is four hours from Cochrane; contact first via the website.

4Sleeping & Eating

Hostería Puerto BertrandGUESTHOUSE$

(%cell 9-9219-1532; Costanera s/n; r per person without bathroom CH$15,000, 4-person cabins CH$50,000)

Above the general store, this rickety wood home has a cozy atmosphere with soft armchairs and lace-covered tables. Shop around for a room with ventilation.

Patagonia Green BakerCABIN$$

(%cell 9-9159-7757, in Santiago 2-2196-0409; www.greenlodgebaker.com; Carretera Austral s/n; d incl breakfast US$132, 2-/4-/7-person cabins US$138/193/311; W)

A pleasant riverside complex, where rooms have handwoven throws and down duvets. Also features a hot tub, restaurant and activities like kayaking, mountain biking and horseback riding. It also offers guided fishing (CH$145,000 full day) and canopy zip line (CH$20,000). Cabins have Direct TV and phones. It’s 3km south of Puerto Bertrand.

oBordebaker LodgeCABIN$$$

(%cell 9-9234-5315, in Santiago 2-2585-8464; www.bordebaker.cl; Carretera Austral s/n; d incl breakfast US$260; hOct-Apr; W)

A tasteful design hotel with rustic touches, Bordebaker has a two-story main lodge connected by boardwalk to seven modern cabins. Each overlooks a sublime stretch of the emerald Río Baker. The lodge offers tours with local operators and organic chef-made meals (dinner CH$28,000). It’s 8km south of Puerto Bertrand.

KonaikenCAFE$

(%cell 9-7891-3056; Carretera Austral, Km301; mains from CH$7000; h24hr)

This cozy cafe offers country-style meals plus cakes and pies with real coffee. Carolina and Héctor are locals with connections to guiding services and have a few cabins (from CH$45,000) on-site. It’s 6km south of Puerto Bertrand.

8Getting There & Away

Buses traveling between Coyhaique and Cochrane may stop here; ask ahead.

Cochrane

%67 / POP 2900

An old ranching outpost, Cochrane is the southern hub of the Carretera Austral. With plans for nearby hydroelectric dams scrapped, the speculative boom has ended and the village has since reverted to its languorous state of growing dandelions.

Though seemingly oblivious to tourism, Cochrane is the gateway to the new Parque Nacional Patagonia, Reserva Nacional Tamango, and fishing destination Lago Cochrane. It’s also the best place for information along this lonely stretch of road and a last-chance stop to fill up the tank.

1Sights & Activities

Reserva Nacional TamangoPARK

(CH$3000; camping per site CH$5000)

Boasting Chile’s largest population of endangered huemul deer, Tamango protects a 70-sq-km transition zone to the Patagonian steppe. Huemul are notoriously shy, but chances of sighting one are better here than anywhere. At the entrance, trails (1.5km to 7km in length) lead to Laguna Elefantina, Laguna Tamanguito and 1722m Cerro Tamango. The reserve is 6km northeast of Cochrane; there’s no public transportation to the entrance.

At the corner of Colonia and San Valentín, hikers can take Pasaje No 1 north and then east to access trails to the entrance. Cochrane’s Conaf may have trail maps.

Calluqueo GlacierGLACIER

This glacier descending from the southeast flanks of Monte San Lorenzo has only recently become a tourist attraction. It requires boat access and a guide.

Mercado MunicipalMARKET

(cnr Pioneros & Vicente Previske; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri)

A covered market with artisan crafts in addition to local produce sold on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays.

Turismo Cochrane PatagoniaTOUR

(%cell 9-7450-2323; www.turismocochranepatagonia.com; park day trip CH$30,000)

To Valle Chacabuco (Parque Nacional Patagonia), the Confluencia and Glaciar Calluqueo, Turismo Cochrane Patagonia offers day tours in private vans, with a minimum of passengers. It sells out well in advance.

Lord PatagoniaTREKKING

(%cell 9-8425-2419; www.lordpatagonia.cl; full-day trek CH$50,000)

Guide Jimmy Valdes takes groups to Glaciar Calluqueo on trekking day trips and overnights.

4Sleeping & Eating

Residencial Cero a CeroGUESTHOUSE$

(%67-252-2158, cell 9-7607-8155; ceroacero@gmail.com; Lago Brown 464; incl breakfast s/d CH$25,000/40,000, r per person without bathroom CH$13,000; W)

A log home that has ample space, Cero a Cero is a comfortable option with good beds, plenty of windows and a warm, cozy interior.

Latitude 47GUESTHOUSE$

(%cell 9-5491-2576; Lago Brown 564; d CH$30,000, r per person without bathroom CH$12,500; W)

A selection of narrow upstairs rooms with single beds and kitchen use. The more recently constructed rooms with bathroom, in an independent area, are worthy upgrades.

Sur AustralGUESTHOUSE$$

(%67-252-2150; Arturo Prat s/n; d/cabins CH$32,000/50,000)

A good option, this family guesthouse also has a newer cabin on-site that’s equipped with a kitchen and cozy bedrooms on the 2nd floor.

Cabañas Sol y LunaCABIN$$

(%cell 9-8157-9602; xmardonestorres@hotmail.com; Camino a la Reserva Tamango; 4-person cabins CH$65,000; W)

Nice, new and well equipped, these cabins with kitchens help you achieve a needed rest, 1km outside town. There’s also a sauna and hot tubs.

Café TamangoCAFE$

(%cell 9-9158-4521; Esmeralda 464; mains CH$5000; h9am-9pm Mon-Sat; v)

Everything looks good in this cafe, from the homemade candies and chestnut ice cream to sandwiches, lentil burgers and couscous served with garden lettuce. It’s set back from the road with outdoor seating.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Cervecería TehuelcheCRAFT BEER

(%cell 9-7879-4509; Teniente Merino 372; pizzas CH$5000; h8pm-midnight)

This small brewpub is a good place to grab a late-night pizza and quaff some decent local beer.

Nación PatagoniaCAFE

(%cell 9-9988-7766; Las Golondrinas 198; hhours vary)

Ideal for a coffee and a conversation, this eclectic cafe serves grilled sandwiches, lemon pie and fresh juices. It also sells trekking maps and local crafts.

8Information

There’s a hospital (%67-252-2131; O’Higgins 755; h24hr) with 24-hour emergency service. A new hospital is under construction.

BancoEstado (Esmeralda 460; h9am-2pm Mon-Fri) ATM accepts MasterCard only, and changes euros and US dollars. If you are headed further south, this is the last ATM.

Conaf (%67-522-164; Río Neff 417; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat) Offers info on local reserves.

Post Office (Esmeralda 199; h9am-3pm Mon-Fri, 11am-2pm Sat)

Tourist Kiosk (www.cochranepatagonia.cl; Plaza de Armas; h9am-1pm & 2-9pm Jan & Feb) Offers bus schedules, fishing guides and taxi information. In the off-season there’s tourist info in a municipal building near the plaza.

8Getting There & Away

Buses go daily to Coyhaique between 6:30am and 9am. Companies include Buses Don Carlos (%67-252-2150; Las Golondrinas s/n, Bus Terminal; h8:30am-12:30pm & 3-7pm), Buses Acuario 13 (%67-252-2143; Las Golondrinas s/n, Bus Terminal; h10am-noon & 4-7pm) and Buses Sao Paulo (%67-252-2143; Las Golondrinas s/n, Bus Terminal; h9am-noon & 2:30-7:30pm).

Various companies provide morning or evening service to Caleta Tortel. They include Buses Aldea (%67-263-8291; Las Golondrinas s/n, Bus Terminal; h9:30am-1pm & 4-7pm), Pachamama, Bus Patagonia and Acuario 13.

For Villa O’Higgins (CH$8000), Águilas Patagónicas (%67-252-2020; Las Golondrinas s/n, Bus Terminal; h10am-1pm & 3-8pm) departs at 8am on Thursday and Sunday.

Chile Chico is served by Buses Aldea three days per week and Transportes Marfer (%cell 9-7756-8234; Las Golondrinas s/n, Bus Terminal; h10am-12:30pm & 3-5pm), with stops in Puerto Bertrand and Puerto Guadal.

DESTINATION	COST (CH$)	HOURS
Caleta Tortel	10,000	3
Chile Chico	15,000	4
Coyhaique	14,000	7-10
Villa O’Higgins	8000	6

8Getting Around

For Parque Nacional Patagonia, Glaciar Calluqueo and La Confluencia, Turismo Cochrane Patagonia (%cell 9-8256-7718, cell 9-7450-2323; national park day trip CH$30,000) provides transfers.

There is no public transportation to Parque Nacional Patagonia, but taxis (CH$30,000, roughly one hour) from the plaza will go.

Caleta Tortel

%67 / POP 523

A network of creaky boardwalks tracing the milky waters of the glacier-fed sound, Caleta Tortel feels like a place from long-ago fables. There are no roads. Dedicated as a national monument, this fishing village cobbled around a steep escarpment is certainly unique. Seated between two ice fields at the mouth of Río Baker, it was first home to canoe-traveling Alacalufe people (Qawashqar); colonists didn’t arrive until 1955. Still isolated but more outwardly social than other Patagonians, locals live off tourism and cypress-wood extraction.

Dependence on a small turbine means that the town has water shortages in big droughts. Electricity is rationed and available for only several hours in the morning and evening. Use water sparingly.

1Sights & Activities

Imposing glaciers like Glacier Montt (Campo de Hielo Sur) and Glacier Steffens (Campo de Hielo Norte) can only be reached by boat. Motorized boat trips for eight to 10 people cost around CH$500,000. Some excursions include hiking or horseback riding. Rates are divided by the number of passengers and departures are dependent on weather.

Mirador Cerro VijíaVIEWPOINT

Above El Rincón sector of Tortel, this three-hour round-trip hike offer views of the Baker estuary and canals.

Paz AustralTOURS

(%cell 9-9579-3779; www.entrehielostortel.cl; per person day trip CH$70,000)

Trips to Ventisquero Montt (CH$500,000 for 12 passengers) and the mouth of the Río Baker and Isla Los Muertos (daily). Its gorgeous new 16m lancha Chilota can take eight passengers on overnight trips.

Destinos PatagoniaTOURS

(%cell 9-7704-2651; claudio.landeros@live.cl)

Boat Qawasqar visits both glaciers as well as Isla de los Muertos (CH$60,000).

4Sleeping

Brisas del SurGUESTHOUSE$

(%cell 9-5688-2723; valerialanderos@hotmail.com; Sector Playa Ancha; incl breakfast d CH$45,000, r per person without bathroom CH$20,000; W)

Señora Valeria puts guests at ease in eight snug rooms with lovely beach views and smells of good cooking wafting up the stairs.

Camping TortelCAMPGROUND$

(%cell 9-7521-5330; www.campingtortel.cl; campsites per person CH$5000)

Platform camping with hot showers.

Residencial EstiloGUESTHOUSE$$

(%cell 9-8255-8487; zuri1_67@hotmail.com; d CH$45,000, r per person without bathroom CH$20,000)

Alejandra’s well-kept wooden house has bright colors and tidy doubles with down duvets.

oEntre HielosB&B$$$

(%cell 9-9579-3779; www.entrehielostortel.cl; s/d incl breakfast US$118/150; W)

A lovely cypress home located at the top of a steep staircase, this wonderful lodging boasts both modern style and family warmth, with a two-night minimum in high season. Breakfast includes real coffee and homemade jams. Chef-prepared dinners may include local beef or salmon from the Río Baker and there’s a great selection of wines. Also run boat trips as Paz Austral.

5Eating & Drinking

El PatagónSEAFOOD$$

(%cell 9-5600-2560; mains CH$9000-11,000; h1-9pm)

Presided over by the señoras Elvira and Fredelinda, this no-nonsense eatery offers abalone empanadas, fresh fish and meat dishes.

Sabores LocalesCHILEAN$$

(%cell 9-9087-3064; mains CH$6000-13,000; h1pm-1am; v)

Maritza cooks up a storm of tasty soups, smoked salmon and homemade pasta dishes in this cute cafe with vegetarian options, liquor and local beer.

oCervecería ChelenkaCRAFT BEER

(%cell 9-9794-9033; hnoon-10:30pm)

Who could guess that Patagonia’s best beer is made by a Frenchman in this tiny boardwalk village? Julian makes a smooth Belgian-style IPA, a nice porter and other varieties, served with fresh ceviche or sandwiches at this friendly pub.

8Information

Tourism Kiosk (%cell 9-6230-4879; www.municipalidaddetortel.cl; h10am-10pm Tue-Sun) Helpful, with some English-speaking staff. At the entry to the village, where buses stop.

8Getting There & Away

All buses depart from a stop next to the tourism kiosk in the upper entrance to the village, since there is no motorized access to town. Bus routes are run by private individuals who have to apply for the government concession, thus providers and schedules can vary from year to year.

There are three bus companies serving Cochrane (CH$10,000, three hours). Buses Aldea (%cell 9-6232-2798) departs four days per week at various hours. Pachamama (%cell 9-9411-4755; kamisaraki21@gmail.com) goes four times per week and Hijos de Pioneros (%67-239-0877) goes daily.

Vultur Patagonia (%cell 9-9350-8156; andrearosast@gmail.com) goes to Villa O’Higgins (CH$4000, four hours) at 4:30pm on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday. Hijos de Pioneros goes at 1:30pm on Thursday.

A ferry from Puerto Natales (%in Punta Arenas 61-272-8100; www.tabsa.cl; municipal ramp; CH$125,000) stops here weekly in high season before continuing on to Puerto Yungay. Arrivals usually come late at night. Since street lamps are lacking in this web of boardwalks, it’s helpful to bring a headlamp and have a phone app with your lodgings marked and accessible offline.

8Getting Around

The road stops at the edge of town, near El Rincón sector. Boardwalks and staircases lead to the center and beyond to the sector of Playa Ancha, a wide beach. Water taxis help people get around town, but it’s best to take minimal luggage (keeping in mind the numerous staircases).

Charging per trip, not per person, boat taxis leave from El Rincón sector for the center (CH$6000), Playa Ancha (CH$7000) and Isla de los Muertos (CH$60,000).

Villa O’Higgins

%67 / POP 612

The last stop heading south on the Carretera Austral, this mythic village is alluring in its isolation. First settled by the English (1914–16), the outpost attracted few Chileans – the road didn’t arrive until 1999. The spectacular surroundings can be explored on horseback or foot, and there’s world-class fishing and boat access to Glaciar O’Higgins. A growing number of trekkers and cyclists cross over from El Chaltén, Argentina. Plans to create road access to Argentina via Entrada Mayer and add a strip of road between Candelaria Mansilla and Lago del Desierto (which would still require ferry use) will greatly facilitate travel to and from Argentina.

Almost no one uses addresses but locals are happy to point you in the right direction. There’s no ATM here so bring all the cash you will need, and Argentine pesos if you plan on crossing the border.

2Activities

oWings PatagoniaSCENIC FLIGHTS

(Transportes Aéreos del Sur; %cell 9-9357-8196; www.transportesaereosdelsur.com; Vargas 497; scenic flight per person US$300; h9am-1pm & 3-8pm)

Soaring over Patagonia with views of Campo de Hielo Sur, you would have to be an Andean condor to have it any better. These hour-long trips in a Cessna with an ace pilot aren’t for the faint of heart, but they are spectacular. Rates are based on a four-passenger minimum. Flights are dependent on good weather. Credit cards accepted.

Also does charter flights to Aeródromo Cerro Castillo (near Torres del Paine) and Balmaceda Airport.

Ruedas de la PatagoniaBOATING

(%cell 9-7604-2400; www.turismoruedasdelapatagonia.cl; Padre Antonio Ronchi 28; transfer CH$35,000; h9am-9pm)

This 16-passenger, 12m boat shuttles between Candelario Mansilla and Puerto Bahamondez (one hour 40 minutes), usually making the trip on days that the La Quetru ferry by Robinson Crusoe does not run. Price includes bus transfer to Villa O’Higgins. Passengers have complained that trips do not leave on scheduled times or days. Also offers charter services.

Glaciares Austral ExpedicionesHIKING

(%WhatsApp 9-4232-3013; www.glaciaresexpedicion.cl)

Guides Nicole Zúñiga and Misael Tiznado run recommended hiking and horse-packing trips from Candelario Mansilla or the nearby peninsula to Ventisquero Chico glacier and the Glaciar O’Higgins lookout. They also plan to put up a mountain refuge on the route. For hard-core glacier lovers, they offer a 10-day trip on the Campo de Hielo Sur (per person CH$850,000, all-inclusive).

Contact via WhatsApp, though expect slow responses as they are frequently out of range.

Robinson CrusoeTOURS

(%67-243-1811; www.robinsoncrusoe.com; Carretera Austral s/n; glacier tour CH$99,000; h9am-1pm & 3-7pm Mon-Sat Nov-Mar)

Departing from Puerto Bahamondez, catamaran La Quetru tours to Glaciar O’Higgins, an impressive glacier on the Campo Hielo Sur, with drop-offs at Candelario Mansilla (CH$36,000, four hours) for those hiking to Argentina. Its package deal to El Chaltén (CH$75,000) is good value, including boat and transport on the Argentine side of the border. Also sells trekking maps.

The company plans to add a 20-passenger boat that will shorten travel times to Candelario Mansilla.

Villa O’Higgins ExpedicionesADVENTURE

(%67-243-1821, cell 9-8210-3191; www.villaohiggins.com; Teniente Merino s/n)

Service at this agency is offered only sporadically, but it may have guided horseback riding or trekking trips. Also rents bikes.

4Sleeping

oEl MoscoHOSTEL$

(%67-243-1819, cell 9-7658-3017; www.patagoniaelmosco.blogspot.com; Carretera Austral, Km 1240; campsites per person CH$6000, dm CH$9000, incl breakfast d CH$45,000, s/d without bathroom CH$18,000/30,000, 4-person cabins CH$50,000)

Friendly and full-service, this buzzing outpost hosts loads of cyclists, trekkers and even the odd conventional traveler. It’s all about the service, and Orfelina nails it with motherly care. There’s good travel information, a collection of area topographical maps and a Finnish sauna.

Entre PatagonesCABAñAS$

(%cell 9-7642-7287; www.entrepatagones.cl; Carretera Austral s/n; domos CH$90,000, 2-/4-person cabins CH$35,000/45,000)

Rents good-value cabins at the restaurant of the same name or new geodesic domes replete with private wooden hot tubs on the deck, just on the outskirts of town. The domes are finished with handsome woodworking and sit high up on a wooded hillside.

Ruedas de la PatagoniaGUESTHOUSE, CABIN$

(%cell 9-6627-8836; Calle Ronchi 128; r per person incl breakfast CH$15,000, 2-/4-/6-person cabins CH$40,000/55,000/65,000; W)

At the end of a dead-end street, these prim wooden cabins are a fair deal, though the double lacks a kitchen. Rooms in the guesthouse are adequate and the lodging takes credit cards.

Ecocamp TsonekCAMPGROUND$

(%cell 9-7892-9695; www.tsonek.cl; Carretera Austral s/n; campsites per person/cyclist CH$4000/3000; W) S

A conservation project in a beautiful beech forest with tent platforms (and some loaner tents), composting toilets, hot solar showers and kitchen. It’s the dream project of El Pajarero, a talented birdwatching guide who also guides excursions and float trips.

Hospedaje Rural Candelario MansillaGUESTHOUSE$

(%WhatsApp 9-9316-2011; Sector Candelario Mansilla; campsites per person CH$5000, r per person without bathroom CH$10,000)

If you’re reaching for the final frontier, check out this lodging in the southernmost sector of Candelario Mansilla, accessible only by ferry or boat. Meals (CH$8000) are extra.

Robinson Crusoe LodgeLODGE$$$

(Deep Patagonia; %cell 9-6608-7168, in Santiago 2-2334-1503; www.robinsoncrusoe.com; Carretera Austral, Km1240; s/d/tr incl breakfast US$194/230/300; W)

Alone in the upscale niche, this modern prefab construction is made warm with colorful Andean throws and comfortable sofas with yarn cushions. While the hotel overshoots the value of a comfy king-sized bed, it does offer nice amenities like varied buffet breakfasts and a wooden-tub Jacuzzi. Most guests come with an all-inclusive package that includes activities with bilingual guides.

5Eating & Drinking

Restaurante Lago CisnesCHILEAN$$

(%cell 9-6673-2734; Calle Nueva 1; mains CH$9000-12,000; h11am-11pm)

With the most dependable working hours, this restaurant serves typical Chilean fare, including soups, seafood and beef. While the midday set menu is good value (CH$6000), it’s not as tasty as menu items like merluza frita.

Entre PatagonesCHILEAN$$

(%cell 9-7642-7287; Carretera Austral s/n; mains CH$8000-10,000; h1pm-midnight)

With the best ambience in town, this faux-rustic log restaurant/bar serves abundant meals of salmon and salad or barbecue specialties. Call ahead to ensure service; it’s at the entrance to town.

Cafe NoroesteCOFFEE

(%cell 9-7669-4112; Teniente Merino s/n; h7:30am-1:30pm & 4-9:30pm)

Serving espresso drinks and sweets, this is the only town cafe – though true to local tradition, even this place closes at lunchtime.

8Information

Information Kiosk (www.municipalidadohiggins.cl; Plaza Cívica; h8:30am-1pm & 2:30-7pm Nov-Mar) May have trekking maps.

TAS (%67-239-3163; www.transportesaereosdelsur.com; Vargas 497; h9am-1pm & 3-8pm) Along with managing Wings Patagonia scenic flights, this agency offers road transfers plus guided fly-fishing and lake kayaking. Helpful with local information. Accepts credit cards.

8Getting There & Away

Aerocord flies to Coyhaique (CH$28,000, 1½ hours) but the flights are currently on hiatus. Be aware that locals get preference for seats as the region is isolated.

Catch buses on the Carretera Austral near the entrance to town. Águilas Patagónicas goes to Cochrane (CH$8000, six hours) on Friday and Monday at 8am. Frequency changes in low season.

BORDER CROSSING

North of Villa O’Higgins, an offshoot of the Carretera Austral goes to Paso Mayer and the Argentine border. While the Chilean side has a decent gravel road, the Argentine side lacks a necessary bridge. It might be OK for 4WD crossings in low season, but in summer it can be too flooded to attempt. Check with local police before attempting to cross.

ARGENTINA VIA THE BACK DOOR

Keen travelers can skirt Campo de Hielo Sur to get from Villa O’Higgins to Argentina’s Parque Nacional Los Glaciares and El Chaltén. The one- to three-day trip can be completed between November 1 and April 30. Bring all of your provisions, cash in both currencies, plus your passport and rain gear. Travel delays due to bad weather or boat problems do happen so travel with extra food and extra pesos. The trip goes as follows:

A Take the 8am bus from Villa O’Higgins to Puerto Bahamondez (CH$2500).

A Take Robinson Crusoe catamaran La Quetru (CH$36,000, four hours) from Villa O’Higgins’ port, Puerto Bahamondez, to Candelario Mansilla on the south edge of Lago O’Higgins. It goes one to three times a week, with departures mostly on Monday, Wednesday and Saturday.

A Or, Ruedas de la Patagonia uses a smaller, faster boat to shuttle between Candelario Mansilla and Puerto Bahamondez (one hour 40 minutes, CH$35,000), including transfer to Villa O’Higgins. Usually operates on the days the ferry does not.

A Candelario Mansilla has basic lodging, horseback riding and pack-horse rental (riding or pack horse CH$30,000). Pass through Chilean customs and immigration here.

A Trek or ride to Laguna Redonda (two hours). Camping is not allowed.

A Trek or ride to Laguna Larga (1½ hours). Camping is not allowed.

A Trek or ride to the north shore of Lago del Desierto (1½ hours). Camping is allowed. Pass through Argentine customs and immigration here.

A Take the ferry from the north to the south shores of Lago del Desierto (US$60, 2¼ hours). Another option is to hike the coast (15km, five hours). Camping is allowed. Check current ferry schedules with Argentine customs.

A Grab the shuttle bus to El Chaltén, 37km away (US$27, one hour).

For more information, consult Rancho Grande Hostel on the Argentine side. In Chile, Robinson Crusoe also offers the whole trip for a package price.

Reserva Nacional Río Simpson

Parque Nacional Cerro Castillo

Villa Cerro Castillo

Puerto Ingeniero Ibáñez

Chile Chico

Reserva Nacional Lago Jeinimeni

Puerto Río Tranquilo

Parque Nacional Laguna San Rafael

Cruce el Maitén

Puerto Guadal

Puerto Bertrand & Río Baker

Parque Nacional Patagonia

THE TOMPKINS LEGACY

Cochrane

Caleta Tortel

Puerto Yungay

Villa O’Higgins

ARGENTINA VIA THE BACK DOOR