ARGENTINE PATAGONIA
El Calafate
%02902 / POP 21,130
Named for the berry that, once eaten, guarantees your return to Patagonia, El Calafate hooks you with another irresistible attraction: Glaciar Perito Moreno, 80km away in Parque Nacional Los Glaciares. This magnificent must-see has converted once-quaint El Calafate into a chic fur-trimmed destination. With a range of traveler services, it’s still a fun place to be. Its strategic location between El Chaltén and Torres del Paine (Chile) makes it an inevitable stop for those in transit.
Located 320km northwest of Río Gallegos, and 32km west of RP 11’s junction with northbound RN 40, El Calafate flanks the southern shore of Lago Argentino.
1Sights & Activities
oGlaciariumMUSEUM
(%02902-497912; www.glaciarium.com; adult/child AR$300/120; 
h9am-8pm Sep-May, 11am-8pm Jun-Aug)
Unique and exciting, this gorgeous museum illuminates the world of ice. Displays and bilingual films show how glaciers form, along with documentaries on continental ice expeditions and stark meditations on climate change. Adults suit up in furry capes for the bar de hielo (AR$240 including drink), a blue-lit below-zero club serving vodka or fernet and Coke in ice glasses.
Hielo y AventuraOUTDOORS, CRUISE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02902-492094, 02902-492205; www.hieloyaventura.com; Libertador 935)
Hielo y Aventura’s conventional cruise Safari Nautico (AR$500, one hour) tours Brazo Rico, Lago Argentino and the south side of Canal de los Témpanos. Catamarans crammed with up to 130 passengers leave hourly between 10:30am and 4:30pm from Puerto Bajo de las Sombras. During busy periods buy tickets in advance for afternoon departures.
To hike on Glaciar Perito Moreno, try minitrekking (AR$2700, under two hours on ice), or the longer and more demanding Big Ice (AR$5200, four hours on ice). Both involve a quick boat ride from Puerto Bajo de las Sombras, a walk through lenga forests, a chat on glaciology and then an ice walk using crampons. Children under eight are not allowed; reserve ahead and bring your own food. Don’t forget rain gear: it’s often snowing around the glacier and you might quickly become wet and cold on the boat deck. Transfers cost extra (AR$1000).
TTours
oGlaciar SurADVENTURE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02902-495050; www.glaciarsur.com; 9 de Julio 57; per person US$250; h10am-8pm)
Get glacier stunned and skip the crowds with these recommended day tours to the unexplored end of Parque Nacional Los Glaciares. Small groups drive to Lago Roca with an expert multilingual guide to view Glaciar Frias. The adventure option features a four-hour hike; the culture option includes a traditional estancia asado (barbecue grill) and off-hour visits to Glaciar Perito Moreno.
Chaltén TravelTOURS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02902-492212; www.chaltentravel.com; Libertador 1174; h9am-9pm)
Recommended tours to Glaciar Perito Moreno, stopping for wildlife viewing (binoculars provided); also specializes in RN 40 trips. It outsources some excursions to Always Glaciers.
CalturTOURS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02902-491368; www.caltur.com.ar; Libertador 1080)
Specializes in El Chaltén tours and lodging packages.
Overland PatagoniaTOURS
(%02902-492243, 02902-491243; www.glaciar.com; glacier tour US$52)
Overland Patagonia operates out of both Hostel del Glaciar Libertador and Hostel del Glaciar Pioneros, and organizes an alternative trip to Glaciar Perito Moreno, which consists of an estancia visit, a one-hour hike in the park and optional lake navigation (AR$500 extra).
Always GlaciersTOURS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02902-493861; www.alwaysglaciers.com; Libertador 924)
Offers competitively priced tours to Glaciar Perito Moreno.
4Sleeping
Hostal SchillingGUESTHOUSE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02902-491453; http://hostalschilling.com; Paradelo 141; dm US$26, d without bathroom US$65, s/d/tr with bathroom US$65/82/106; 
W)
Good value and centrally located, this friendly guesthouse is a top choice for travelers who value service. Much is due to the family owners, who look after guests with a cup of tea or help with logistical planning. Breakfast includes scrambled eggs, yogurt and cakes. There are also multiple living rooms, adult coloring books and games.
America del SurHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02902-493525; www.americahostel.com.ar; Puerto Deseado 151; dm US$30, d & q US$140; 
iW)
This backpacker favorite has a stylish lodge setting with views and heated floors. Hip, modern doubles with artwork make you rethink the limitations of a hostel. There’s a well-staffed and fun social scene, including affordable nightly barbecues with salad buffet in high season. It also offers electric-bike rentals.
Posada Karut JoshB&B$
(%02902-496444; www.posadakarutjosh.com.ar; Calle 12, No 1882, Barrio Bahía Redonda; d US$71; W)
Run by an Italian-Argentine couple, this peaceful aluminum-sided B&B features big, bright rooms and a lovely garden with lake views. Breakfast is abundant and satisfying meals (AR$280) are also available.
Las CabañitasCABIN$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02902-491118; www.lascabanitascalafate.com; Valentín Feilberg 218; incl breakfast 2-/3-person cabins US$60/70, 4-person apt US$80; hSep-May; iW)
Las Cabañitas is a restful spot that has snug storybook A-frames with spiral staircases leading to loft beds and apartments, all with LED TVs. It’s run by Eugenia, the helpful daughter of the original owner. Touches include a barbecue area, guest cooking facilities, and English lavender in the garden.
Hostel del Glaciar LibertadorHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02902-492492; www.glaciar.com; Libertador 587; dm/s/d US$25/77/88; iW)
The best deals here are dorm bunk beds with thick covers. Behind a Victorian facade, the modern facilities include a top-floor kitchen, radiant floor heating, computers and a spacious common area with a plasma TV glued to sports channels. Breakfast is extra for dorm users (AR$84).
I Keu Ken HostelHOSTEL$
(%02902-495175; www.patagoniaikeuken.com.ar; FM Pontoriero 171; dm US$24, cabins per person incl breakfast US$70; iW)
With helpful staff, artisan beer and deck chairs on industrial springs, this quirky hostel has proven popular with travelers. Features include inviting common areas, a terrace for lounging and first-rate barbecues. Its location, near the top of a steep hill, offers views (and a workout); it’s an AR$80 taxi ride to the bus terminal.
Camping El OvejeroCAMPGROUND$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02902-493422; www.campingelovejero.com.ar; José Pantín 64; campsites per person US$7; iW)
El Ovejero has woodsy, well-kept (and slightly noisy) campsites with spotless showers that have 24-hour hot water. Locals boast that the on-site restaurant is one of the best deals in town for grill food. Extras include private tables, electricity and grills. It’s located by the creek just north of the bridge into town. Make reservations online.
Hostel del Glaciar PionerosHOSTEL$
(%02902-491243; www.glaciar.com; Los Pioneros 251; dm/s/d US$20/53/59; hNov-Mar; iW)
A 15-minute walk from town, this sprawling, renovated red house is one of El Calafate’s most long-standing hostels. A sociable place, it includes comfortable common areas, snug dorms and a small restaurant with homemade meals.
Calafate HostelHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02902-492450; www.calafatehostels.com; Moyano 1226; dm/s/d/tr US$20/71/94/110; iW)
Best suited to large groups, this mammoth log cabin ends up feeling blander than the competition in El Calafate. Double-bunk dorms are cozy, while the new annex features tidy brick doubles.
Cauquenes de NimezB&B$$
(%02902-492306; www.cauquenesdenimez.com.ar; Calle 303, No 79; d/tr incl breakfast US$100/124; 
aW) 
S
Both modern and rustic, Gabriel’s welcoming two-story lodge offers views of flamingos on the lake (from November through summer). Smart rooms decorated with corduroy duvets and nature photography also feature lock boxes and TVs. Personalized attention is a plus, as is the complimentary tea time with lavender muffins, and free bikes (donations support the nature reserve).
South B&BB&B$$
(%02902-489555; www.southbb.com.ar; Av Juan Domingo Perón 1016; d/tr/q incl breakfast US$85/120/150; hOct-Apr; 
pW)
You would need a drone to get views of Lago Argentino to beat those from this enormous hillside hotel converted to a large B&B. Rooms are spacious, colorful and bright, though wi-fi reaches only some. It’s attentive and family run, with a trio of toy poodles standing guard. It also offers box lunches (US$15).
Hosteria La EstepaBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
(%02902-496592; www.hosterialaestepa.com; Libertador 5310; s/d incl breakfast from US$130/150; iW)
Guests happily tuck into this snug, rustic lodging with panoramic lake views and farm antiques. Of the 26 rooms, a handful have water views; the deluxe versions have small living areas. A sprawling 2nd-floor social area is strewn with regional maps and board games. The restaurant serves homemade meals. It’s 5km west of the town center, toward Parque Nacional Los Glaciares.
Madre TierraBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02902-489880; www.madretierrapatagonia.com; 9 de Julio 239; d incl breakfast US$165)
A beaut wrapped in Andean textiles and rustic simplicity. The biggest draw is the 2nd-floor living room, with comfy sofas and a blazing woodstove on chilly days. The house has just seven rooms, outfitted with oversized dressers and a clean, modern sensibility. It’s run by longtime area guides Natacha and Mariano, who also offer 4WD tours and transfers. Reservations required.
5Eating
OliviaCAFE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02902-488038; 9 de Julio 187; snacks AR$40-120; h10am-8pm; W)
This adorable coffee shop does croque monsieurs (grilled ham and cheese), fresh donuts and espresso drinks in a loungy pastel setting. It also uses whole-bean Colombian coffee. Want to take the chill off? Try the cheese scones served hot with cream.
Morphi al PasoFAST FOOD$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %911-3143-6005; 25 de Mayo 130; mains AR$50-150; hnoon-1am Mon-Sat)
For fresh milanesas, hot dogs and burgers in the off hours, this clean come-and-go counter flanked with bar stools is the way to go. Morphi means to chow down in Lunfardo, an Argentine slang derived from a dialect in Lombardy, Italy.
Viva la PepaCAFE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02902-491880; Amado 833; mains AR$85-200; hnoon-9pm Mon-Sat)
Decked out in children’s drawings, this cheerful cafe specializes in crepes but also offers great sandwiches with homemade bread (try the chicken with apple and blue cheese), fresh juice and gourds of maté.
oBuenos CrucesARGENTINE$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02902-492698; Espora 237; mains AR$130-280; h7-11pm Mon-Sat; 
c)
This dynamic family-run enterprise brings a twist to Argentine classics. Start with a warm beet salad with balsamic reduction. The nut-crusted trout is both enormous and satisfying, as is the guanaco meatloaf or the baked ravioli crisped at the edge and bubbling with Roquefort cheese. The service is excellent and there’s a play area for children.
oPura VidaARGENTINE$$
(%02902-493356; Libertador 1876; mains AR$130-240; h7:30-11:30pm Thu-Tue; 
v)
Featuring the rare treat of Argentine home cooking, this offbeat, low-lit eatery is a must. Its longtime owners are found cooking up buttery spiced chicken pot pies and filling wine glasses. For vegetarians, brown rice and wok veggies or salads are satisfying. Servings are huge. Don’t skip the decadent chocolate brownie with ice cream and warm berry sauce. Reserve ahead.
Esquina VarelaARGENTINE$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02902-490666; Puerto Deseado 22; mains AR$190-245; h7pm-late Thu-Tue; v)
Start with some fried calamari and beer at this corrugated-tin eatery. Filling lamb stew, steak and homemade pasta grace a short menu that also has vegetarian options. There’s live music, too.
La TablitaPARRILLA$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02902-491065; www.la-tablita.com.ar; Rosales 24; mains AR$130-300; hnoon-3:30pm & 7pm-midnight)
Steak and spit-roasted lamb are the stars at this satisfying parrilla that’s popular beyond measure for good reason. For average appetites a half-steak will do, rounded out with a good malbec, fresh salad or garlic fries.
Mi RanchoARGENTINE$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02902-490540; Moyano 1089; mains AR$180-310; hnoon-3:30pm & 8pm-midnight)
Inspired and intimate, Mi Rancho serves up oversized osso buco, delicious braided pastas stuffed with king crab, divine salads and sweetbreads with wilted spinach on toast. For dessert, chocolate fondant or passion-fruit semifreddo are both worth the calorie hit, and more. Located in a tiny brick pioneer house with space for few.
6Drinking & Nightlife
oLa ZorraMICROBREWERY
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02902-490444; Av San Martín s/n; h6pm-2am Tue-Sun)
Long, skinny tables fill with both locals and travelers to quaff what we consider to be the best artisan beer in Patagonia, La Zorra. The smoked porter and double IPA do not disappoint. There’s also pub fare such as fries and sausages.
LibrobarBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Libertador 1015; h11am-3am; W)
Upstairs in the gnome village, this hip bookstore-bar serves coffee, artisan beers and pricey cocktails. Peruse the oversized photography books on Patagonian wildlife or bring your laptop and take advantage of the free wi-fi. There’s also 2nd-story deck seating.
el ba’rCAFE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 9 de Julio s/n; h11am-10pm Thu-Tue)
This patio cafe is the hot spot for you and your sweater-clad puppy to order espresso, submarinos (hot milk with melted chocolate bar), green tea, gluten-free snacks or sandwiches (mains AR$80 to AR$180).
3Entertainment
La TolderíaLIVE MUSIC
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02902-491443; www.facebook.com/LaTolderia; Libertador 1177; hnoon-4am Mon-Thu, to 6am Fri-Sun)
This petite storefront opens its doors to dancing and live acts at nighttime; it’s probably the best spot to try if you’re feeling boisterous.
8Information
Withdraw your cash before the weekend rush – it isn’t uncommon for ATMs to run out on Sundays. If you are headed to El Chaltén, consider getting extra cash here.
Banco Santa Cruz (Libertador 1285; h8am-1pm Mon-Fri) Changes traveler’s checks and has an ATM.
ACA (Automóvil Club Argentino; %02902-491004; Valentin Feilberg 51; h24hr) Argentina’s auto club; a good source for provincial road maps.
Hospital de Alta Complejidad SAMIC (%02902-491889; www.hospitalelcalafate.org; Jorge Newbury 453) Located in El Calafate’s upper neighborhood, a taxi ride from downtown.
Municipal Tourist Office (%02902-491090, 02902-491466; www.elcalafate.tur.ar; Libertador 1411; h8am-8pm) Has town maps and general information. There’s also a kiosk at the bus terminal; both have some English-speaking staff.
National Park Office (%02902-491545; Libertador 1302; h8am-8pm Dec-Apr, to 6pm May-Nov) Offers brochures and a decent map of Parque Nacional Los Glaciares. It’s best to get information here before reaching the park.
Post Office (Libertador 1133; h8am-4:30pm Mon-Fri)
8Getting There & Away
AIR
The modern Aeropuerto El Calafate (%02902-491220) is 23km east of town off RP 11. New low-cost airlines plan to offer flights to Buenos Aires, Ushuaia and Río Grande. Aviación Civil Argentina (ANAC; www.anac.gob.ar) has a map with new routes and airlines.
The following rates are one way. Aerolíneas Argentinas (%02902-492814, 02902-492816; Libertador 1361; h9:30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat) flies daily to Bariloche (from AR$1860), Ushuaia (AR$1800), Trelew (AR$4000), and Aeroparque and Ezeiza in Buenos Aires (from AR$4400).
LATAM (%02902-495548; 9 de Julio 81; h9am-8pm Mon-Fri) flies to Ushuaia weekly. Aerovías DAP flies to Punta Arenas in high season (December through March).
BUS
El Calafate’s hilltop bus terminal (%02902-491476; Jean Mermoz 104; h24hr) is easily reached by a pedestrian staircase from the corner of Libertador and 9 de Julio. Book ahead in high season, as outbound seats can be in short supply.
For Río Gallegos, buses go four times daily; contact Taqsa/Marga (%02902-491843; Jean Mermoz 104) or Andesmar (%02902-494250; Jean Mermoz 104). Connections to Bariloche and Ushuaia may require leaving in the middle of the night and a change of buses in Río Gallegos. Sportman (%02902-492680; Jean Mermoz 104) serves various destinations in Patagonia.
For El Chaltén, buses leave daily at 8am, 2pm and 6pm. Both Caltur (%02902-491368; www.caltur.com.ar; Jean Mermoz 104) and Chaltén Travel go to El Chaltén and also drive the RN 40 to Bariloche (AR$2425, two days) in summer. General buses to Bariloche take longer in winter as they take the coastal route.
For Puerto Natales (Chile), Cootra (%02902-491444; Jean Mermoz 104) and Turismo Zahhj (%02902-491631; Jean Mermoz 104) depart at 8am and 8:30am daily (three times weekly in low season), crossing the border at Cerro Castillo, where it may be possible to connect to Torres del Paine.
8Getting Around
Airport shuttle Ves Patagonia (%02902-494355; www.vespatagonia.com.ar; airport transfer AR$160) offers door-to-door service (one-way AR$160), or you can take a taxi (AR$480). There are several car-rental agencies at the airport. Localiza (%02902-491398; www.localiza.com.ar; Libertador 687; h9am-8pm) and Servi Car (%02902-492541; www.servi4x4.com.ar; Libertador 695; h9:30am-noon & 4-8pm Mon-Sat) offer car rentals from convenient downtown offices.
Many lodgings and some downtown shops offer bicycle rentals.
Parque Nacional Los Glaciares (South)
Among the Earth’s most dynamic and accessible ice fields, Glaciar Perito Moreno is the stunning centerpiece of the southern sector of Parque Nacional Los Glaciares (www.parquesnacionales.gob.ar/areas-protegidas/region-patagonia-austral/pn-los-glaciares; adult/child AR$500/130, collected after 8am). It’s 30km long, 5km wide and 60m high, but what makes it exceptional in the world of ice is its constant advance – it creeps forward up to 2m per day, causing building-sized icebergs to calve from its face. Watching the glacier is a sedentary park experience that manages to be thrilling.
The glacier formed as a low gap in the Andes allowed moisture-laden Pacific storms to drop their loads east of the divide, where they accumulate as snow. Over millennia, under tremendous weight, this snow recrystallized into ice and flowed slowly eastward. The 1600-sq-km trough of Lago Argentino, the country’s largest body of water, shows that glaciers were once far more extensive here. While most of the world’s glaciers are receding, Glaciar Perito Moreno is considered ‘stable.’
2Activities
Southern SpiritCRUISE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02902-491582; www.southernspiritfte.com.ar; Libertador 1319, El Calafate; 1hr cruise AR$1800; h9am-1pm & 4-8pm)
Southern Spirit has one- to three-hour cruises on Lago Argentino in southern Parque Nacional Los Glaciares to see Perito Moreno Glacier. An active alternative includes hiking.
Cabalgatas del GlaciarHORSEBACK RIDING
(%02902-495447; www.cabalgatasdelglaciar.com; full day AR$2250)
Cabalgatas del Glaciar runs one-day and multiday riding or trekking trips with glacier panoramas to Lago Roca and Paso Zamora on the Chilean border. Tours include transfer from El Calafate and a steak lunch. There’s no office in El Calafate; the tour is sold online and via the Caltur office.
Solo Patagonia SACRUISE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02902-491115; www.solopatagonia.com; Libertador 867, El Calafate; h9am-12:30pm & 4-8pm)
Solo Patagonia offers the Ríos de Hielo Express (AR$1350) from Puerto Punta Bandera, visiting Glaciar Upsala, Glaciar Spegazzini and Glaciar Perito Moreno. Weather may alter the route. Transfers from El Calafate cost extra (AR$450).
4Sleeping
oCamping Lago RocaCAMPGROUND$
(%02902-499500; www.losglaciares.com/campinglagoroca; per person US$14, cabin dm per 2/4 people US$88/59)
This full-service campground with restaurant-bar, located a few kilometers past the education camp, makes an excellent adventure base. The clean concrete-walled dorms provide a snug alternative to camping. Hiking trails abound, and the center rents fishing equipment and bikes, and coordinates horseback riding at the nearby Estancia Nibepo Aike.
oEstancia CristinaESTANCIA$$$
(%02902-491133, in Buenos Aires 011-4803-7352; www.estanciacristina.com; d 2 nights incl full board & activities US$1738; hOct-Apr)
Locals in the know say the most outstanding trekking in the region is right here. Lodgings are in bright, modern cabins with expansive views. A visit includes guided activities and boating to Glaciar Upsala. Accessible by boat from Puerto Punta Bandera, off the northern arm of Lago Argentino.
Estancia Nibepo AikeESTANCIA$$$
(%02902-492797, in Buenos Aires 011-5272-0341; www.nibepoaike.com.ar; RP 15, Km60; d per person incl full board & activities from US$152; hOct-Apr; W)
This Croatian pioneer ranch, still a working cattle ranch, offers the usual assortment of estancia highlights, including demonstrations and horseback riding with bilingual guides. Rooms are simply lovely and high-quality photos give a sense of the regional history. Guests can also explore the surroundings on two wheels from the bicycle stash. Transfers to and from El Calafate are included.
8Getting There & Away
The main gateway town to Parque Nacional Los Glaciares’ southern sector, El Calafate, is where you’ll find most operators for tours and activities. Glaciar Perito Moreno is 80km west of El Calafate via paved RP 11, which passes through the breathtaking scenery around Lago Argentino. Bus tours (AR$650 roundtrip) are frequent in summer. Buses leave El Calafate in the early morning and afternoon, returning around noon and 7pm.
In the park, there is a free shuttle from the parking area to the boardwalks.
THE STORY OF GLACIERS
Ribbons of ice, stretched flat in sheets or sculpted by weather and fissured by pressure, glaciers have a raw magnificence that is mind-boggling to behold.
As snow falls on the accumulation area, it compacts to ice. The river of ice is slugged forward by gravity, which deforms its layers as it moves. When the glacier surges downhill, melted ice mixes with rock and soil on the bottom, grinding it into a lubricant that keeps pushing the glacier along. At the same time, debris from the crushed rock is forced to the sides of the glacier, creating features called moraines. Movement also causes cracks and deformities called crevasses.
The ablation area is where the glacier melts. When accumulation outpaces melting at the ablation area, the glacier advances; when there’s more melting or evaporation, the glacier recedes. Since 1980 global warming has contributed greatly to widespread glacial retreat.
Another marvel of glaciers is their hue. What makes some blue? Wavelengths and air bubbles. The more compact the ice, the longer the path that light has to travel and the bluer the ice appears. Air bubbles in uncompacted areas absorb long wavelengths of white light, so we see white. When glaciers calve into lakes, they dump a ‘glacial flour’ comprised of ground-up rock that gives the water a milky, grayish color. This same sediment remains unsettled in some lakes and diffracts the sun’s light, creating a stunning palette of turquoise, pale mint and azure.
– Carolyn McCarthy with contributions from Ursula Rick
El Chaltén
%02962 / POP 1630
This colorful village overlooks the stunning northern sector of Parque Nacional Los Glaciares. Every summer thousands of trekkers explore the world-class trails that start right here. Founded in 1985, in a rush to beat Chile to the land claim, El Chaltén is still a frontier town, albeit an offbeat one, featuring constant construction, hippie values and packs of roaming dogs. Every year more mainstream tourists come to see what the fuss is about, but in winter (May–September) most hotels and services board up and transportation links are few. Visit www.elchalten.com for a good overview of the town.
TTours
El RelinchoHORSEBACK RIDING
(%02962-493007, in El Calafate 02902-491961; www.elrelinchopatagonia.com.ar; Av San Martín 505)
Outfitter El Relincho takes riders to the pretty valley of Río de las Vueltas (three hours) and also offers more challenging rides up the Vizcacha hill followed by a barbecue on a traditional ranch. Cabin-style accommodations are also available through the company.
Camino AbiertoTOURS
(%02962-493043; www.caminoabierto.com)
An operator offering trekking throughout Patagonia and guided crossing to Villa O’Higgins. It’s off Av San Martín.
4Sleeping
Albergue PatagoniaHOSTEL$
(Patagonia Travellers’ Hostel; %02962-493019; www.patagoniahostel.com.ar; Av San Martín 376; incl breakfast d/tr US$105/130, dm/s/d without bathroom US$25/60/75; hSep-May; iW)
A gorgeous and welcoming wooden farmhouse with helpful staff. Dorms in a separate building are spacious and modern, with good service and a humming atmosphere. A B&B option features rooms with private bathrooms, kitchen use and a sumptuous buffet breakfast at Fuegia Bistro.
Also rents bikes and offers a unique bike tour to Lago del Desierto (AR$1100) with shuttle options.
Camping El RelinchoCAMPGROUND$
(%02962-493007; www.elrelinchopatagonia.com.ar; Av San Martín 545; campsites per person/vehicle/motorhome US$9/3/5, 4-person cabins US$118; W)
A private campground with wind-whipped and exposed sites, and an enclosed cooking area.
Condor de Los AndesHOSTEL$
(%02962-493101; www.condordelosandes.com; cnr Río de las Vueltas & Halvor Halvorsen; dm/d US$28/91; iW)
This homey hostel has the feel of a ski lodge, with worn bunks, warm rooms and a roaring fire. Prices take a leap to stylish private doubles, though it’s an unlikely choice for couples. The guest kitchen is immaculate and there are comfortable lounge spaces.
Lo de TriviHOSTEL$
(%02962-493255; www.lodetrivi.com; Av San Martín 675; d US$80, dm/d without bathroom US$19/76; W)
A good budget option, this converted house has added shipping containers and decks with antique beds as porch seating. It’s a bit hodgepodge but it works. There are various tidy shared spaces with and without TV; best is the huge industrial kitchen for guests. Doubles in snug containers can barely fit a bed.
Rancho Grande HostelHOSTEL$
(%02962-493005; www.ranchograndehostel.com; Av San Martín 724; dm/d/tr/q US$35/147/170/194; iW)
Serving as Chaltén’s Grand Central Station (Chaltén Travel buses stop here), this bustling backpacker factory has something for everyone, from bus reservations to internet (extra) and 24-hour cafe service. Clean four-bed rooms are stacked with blankets, and bathrooms sport rows of shower stalls. Private rooms have their own bathroom and free breakfast.
oNothofagus B&BB&B$$
(%02962-493087; www.nothofagusbb.com.ar; cnr Hensen & Riquelme; s/d/tr US$74/94/106, without bathroom US$59/71/99; hOct-Apr; iW) S
Attentive and adorable, this chalet-style inn offers a toasty retreat with hearty breakfast options. Practices that earn them the Sello Verde (Green Seal) include separating organic waste and replacing towels only when asked. Wooden-beam rooms have carpet and some views. Those with hallway bathrooms share with one other room. The owners, former guides, are helpful with providing hiking information.
Anita’s HouseCABIN$$
(%02962-493288; www.anitashouse.com.ar; Av San Martín 249; 2-/3-/4-person cabins US$118/129/141, 6-person cabins US$188; W)
When the wind howls, these few modern cabins are a snug spot for groups, couples or families, smack in the center of town. Owner run and with impeccable service. Kitchens come fully equipped and there’s room service and cable TV. The larger two-story cabins are downright spacious.
El BarrancoINN$$
(%02962-493006; www.posadaelbarranco.com; Calle 2, No 45; d/tr/q incl breakfast US$150/165/175; W)
This 10-room inn hits just the right note, with sleek rooms and their glass showers, LED TVs and lock boxes. The double water-heater system ensures you won’t go without a hot shower. There are also three high-ceiling cabins with kitchenettes set in the grassy yard. With 24-hour reception.
InlandsisGUESTHOUSE$$
(%02962-493276; www.inlandsis.com.ar; Lago del Desierto 480; d US$84-99; hOct-Apr; W)
This small, relaxed brick house offers economical rooms with bunk beds (some are airless; check before booking) or larger, pricier doubles with two twin beds or a queen-size bed. It also has bi-level cabins with bathtubs, kitchens and DVD players. There are great extras, like afternoon cakes or wine, bag lunches for the trail and transportation in and out of town.
Pudu LodgeHOTEL$$
(%02962-493365; www.pudulodge.com; Calle Las Loicas 97; d incl breakfast US$90; piW)
This comfy lodging with modern style and congenial service has 20 spacious rooms with good mattresses. It’s great value for El Chaltén. Buffet breakfasts are served in the cathedral-ceilinged great room.
oSenderos HosteríaB&B$$$
(%02962-493336; www.senderoshosteria.com.ar; Perito Moreno 35; s/d incl breakfast from US$125/150)
This contemporary, corrugated-tin home offers wonderful amenities for trekkers seeking creature comforts. The on-site restaurant serves exquisite gourmet meals with excellent wines and attentive service – a real perk when you’ve spent a day outdoors. Smart rooms have soft white sheets, firm beds, lock boxes and occasional Fitz Roy views.
Hostería El PumaLODGE$$$
(%02962-493095; www.hosteriaelpuma.com.ar; Lionel Terray 212; s/d/tr US$146/164/191; pW)
This luxury lodge with 12 comfortable rooms offers intimacy without pretension, as well as huge buffet breakfasts. The rock-climbing and summit photographs and maps lining the hall may inspire your next expedition, but lounging by the fireplace is the most savory way to end the day.
KaulemBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(%02962-493251; www.kaulem.com.ar; cnr Av Antonio Rojo & Comandante Arrua; d incl breakfast US$155, cabin d US$135; W) S
With a cozy lodge atmosphere, cafe and public art gallery, this boutique hotel is rustic and stylish, with just four rooms, all with Fitz Roy views, and an adjacent cabin with kitchen. The buffet breakfast includes yogurt, homemade bread and fruit. Guests share a huge open dining and living area piped with good music and stocked with books and chess.
5Eating
CúrcumaVEGAN$
(%02902-485656; Av Rojo 219; mains AR$160; h10am-10pm; v)
With an avid following, this vegan, gluten-free cafe does mostly takeout, from adzuki-bean burgers to whole-wheat pizzas, stuffed eggplant with couscous and arugula. Salads, coconut-milk risottos and smoothies are rare as endangered species in Patagonia – take advantage. Hikers can reserve a lunch box a day in advance.
Domo BlancoICE CREAM$
(Av San Martín 164; snacks AR$90; h2pm-midnight)
Excellent homemade ice cream made with flavors like lemon ginger and berry marscarpone, with fruit harvested from a local estancia and calafate bushes in town.
PatagonicusPIZZA$
(%02962-493025; Av MM de Güemes 57; pizza AR$100-160; h11am-midnight Nov-Apr)
Serving 20 kinds of pizza, salads and wine at sturdy wood tables surrounded by huge picture windows, Patagonicus is a local favorite. Cakes and coffee are also worth trying.
Techado NegroCAFE$
(%02962-493268; Av Antonio Rojo; mains AR$90-180; hnoon-midnight; v) S
With local paintings on the wall, bright colors and a raucous, unkempt atmosphere in keeping with El Chaltén, this homespun cafe serves up abundant, good-value and sometimes healthy Argentine fare. Think homemade empanadas, squash stuffed with humitas (sweet tamale), brown rice vegetarian dishes, soups and pastas. It also offers box lunches.
oMaffíaITALIAN$$
(%02966-449574; Av San Martín 107; mains AR$180-360; h11am-11pm)
Bring your appetite. In a gingerbread house, this pasta specialist makes delicious stuffed panzottis and sorrentinos, with creative fillings like trout, eggplant and basil or fondue. There are also homemade soups and garden salads. Service is professional and friendly. For dessert, the oversize homemade flan delivers.
EstepaARGENTINE$$
(%02962-493069; cnr Cerro Solo & Av Antonio Rojo; mains AR$100-300; h11:30am-2pm & 6-11pm)
Local favorite Estepa cooks up consistent, flavorful dishes such as lamb with calafate sauce, trout ravioli or spinach crepes. Portions are small but artfully presented, with veggies that hail from the on-site greenhouse. For a shoestring dinner, consider its rotisserie takeout service.
Don GuerraINTERNATIONAL$$
(%in Buenos Aires 011-15-6653-5746; Av San Martín s/n; mains AR$190-230; hnoon-11pm)
Patagonian to its wooden bones, with sheepskin stools that wrap around an island bar and cozy booths. There are Esquel microbrews on tap and a variety of worthwhile dishes, from milanesas to stir-fries and fajitas.
El MuroARGENTINE$$
(%02962-493248; Av San Martín 912; mains AR$90-210; hnoon-3pm & 7-11pm)
For rib-sticking mountain food (think massive stir-fries, tenderloin stroganoff or trout with crisp, grilled veggies), head to this tiny outpost at the end of the road.
La CerveceríaPUB FOOD$$
(%02962-493109; Av San Martín 320; mains AR$100-190; hnoon-midnight)
That après-hike pint usually evolves into a night out at this humming pub with simpatico staff and a feisty female beer master. Savor a stein of unfiltered blond pilsner or turbid bock with pasta or locro (a spicy stew of maize, beans, beef, pork and sausage).
La Oveja NegraGRILL$$
(%02962-271437; Av San Martín 226; mains AR$180-240; hnoon-11:30pm)
In a pleasant wooden house, a classic Argentine grill cooks up butterflied lamb over wood fires, plus beef and sausages. Vegetarians will have to satisfy themselves with grilled vegetables. There’s artisan beer on tap and wines.
oLa TaperaARGENTINE$$$
(%02962-493195; Antonio Rojo 74; mains AR$260-330; hnoon-3pm & 6:30-11pm Oct-Apr)
With tender steak in balsamic-reduction sauce, ultra-fresh trout from Lago del Desierto and red-wine glasses as big as your head, it’s hard to go wrong at Chipo’s place, reminiscent of a log cabin with an open fireplace. Vegetarian options invite less enthusiasm – best to try elsewhere. Otherwise, service is snappy, portions generous and there are wonderful wine options.
6Drinking & Nightlife
La VineríaWINE BAR
(%02962-493301; Lago del Desierto 265; h2:30pm-3am Oct-Apr)
Transplanted from Alaska, this tiny, congenial wine bar offers a long Argentine wine list accompanied by 70 craft-beer options and standout appetizers. With 50 wines sold by the glass, and an entire gin menu, enthusiasts might be tempted to sabotage their next day on the trail.
La ChocolateríaCAFE
(%02962-493008; Lago del Desierto 105; h11am-9pm Mon-Fri, 9am-9pm Sat & Sun Nov-Mar)
This irresistible chocolate factory tells the story of local climbing legends on the walls. It makes for an intimate evening out, with options ranging from spirit-spiked hot cocoa to wine and fondue. Chocolate and coffee drinks are AR$90.
FrescoBAR
(Cabo García 38; h5pm-midnight Mon-Sat)
In a corrugated-tin house, this bare-bones bar gets lively when there’s live music. There’s also La Zorra beer on tap, one of Patagonia’s finest.
Laguna los TresBAR
(Trevisán 42; h6pm-2am)
For a dose of rock or reggae with ping-pong on the side, this disheveled bar will do nicely. There’s live music on weekends; check the Facebook page for events.
7Shopping
Viento OesteBOOKS
(%02962-493200; Av San Martín 898; h10am-11pm)
Sells books, maps and souvenirs and also rents a wide range of camping equipment, as do several other sundries shops around town.
8Information
Those coming from El Calafate should bring extra cash in case ATMs are out of money or service.
Banco de Santa Cruz (Bus Terminal; h24hr) has a LINK-access ATM in the bus terminal. There’s another one outside the terminal.
New regulations require lodgings and restaurants to accept credit cards, but it may take some time for local businesses to implement them. There’s one gas station at the entrance to town that accepts cash only. Euros and US dollars are widely accepted.
Chaltén Travel (%02962-493092; www.chaltentravel.com; Av MM de Güemes 7; h7am-noon & 5-9pm) Books airline tickets (flights out of Calafate) and bus travel along RN 40.
Municipal Tourist Office (%02962-493370; www.elchalten.tur.ar; Bus Terminal; h8am-10pm) Friendly and extremely helpful, with lodging lists and good information on the town and tours. English is spoken.
Park Ranger Office (%02962-493024, 02962-493004; pnlgzonanorte@apn.gob.ar; h9am-5pm Sep-Apr, 10am-5pm May-Aug) Many daytime buses stop for a short bilingual orientation at this visitor center, just before the bridge over the Río Fitz Roy. Park rangers distribute a map and town directory and do a good job of explaining Parque Nacional Los Glaciares’ ecological issues. Climbing documentaries are shown at 2pm daily – great for rainy days.
8Getting There & Away
El Chaltén is 220km from El Calafate via smooth paved roads. A bicycle path heads from town to Hostería El Pilar, in Parque Nacional Los Glaciares. Bike rentals are available in various locations.
Many travelers arrive in El Chaltén after making a one- to three-day ferry and hiking trip from Villa O’Higgins.
All buses go to the Terminal de Omnibus (%02962-493370), located near the entrance to town. Outbound passengers must pay a separate departure tax (AR$20).
For El Calafate (AR$600, 3½ hours), Chaltén Travel (%02962-493092, 02962-493005; Av San Martín 635) has daily departures at 7:30am, 1pm and 6pm in summer. Caltur (%02962-493150; Av San Martín 520) and Taqsa/Marga (%02962-493130; Bus Terminal) also make the trip. Service is less frequent in low season.
Las Lengas (%02962-493023; Antonio de Viedma 95) has shuttle service directly to El Calafate’s airport (AR$600) in high season. It also has minivans to Lago del Desierto (AR$450 round-trip), stopping at Hostería El Pilar and Río Eléctrico.
Chaltén Travel also goes to Bariloche on odd days of the month in high season (AR$2425, two days), with an overnight stop (meals and accommodations extra). Taqsa also goes to Bariloche (AR$2020), to points on RN 40 in between, and to Ushuaia (AR$2150).
Parque Nacional Los Glaciares (North)
This surreal and stunning mountain landscape defies all logic. In the northern part of the park, the Fitz Roy Range – with its rugged wilderness and shark-tooth summits – is the de facto trekking capital of Argentina. It also draws world-class climbers for whom Cerro Torre and Cerro Fitz Roy are milestone ascents notorious for brutal weather conditions. But you don’t have to be extreme to enjoy the numerous well-marked trails for hiking and jaw-dropping scenery – that is, when the clouds clear.
Parque Nacional Los Glaciares is divided into geographically separate northern and southern sectors. El Chaltén is the gateway town for the northern part of the park. El Calafate is the gateway town for the southern section, which features the Glaciar Perito Moreno. They are not connected by trails and are essentially seen as separate parks.
2Activities
oLaguna de Los TresHIKING
This hike to a high alpine tarn provides one of the most photogenic spots in Parque Nacional Los Glaciares. It’s somewhat strenuous (10km and four hours one way) and best for those already in good physical shape. Exercise extra caution in foul weather as trails are very steep.
Laguna TorreHIKING
Views of the stunning rock needle of Cerro Torre are the highlight of this 18km round-trip hike. If you have good weather – ie little wind – and clear skies, make this hike (three hours one way) a priority, since the toothy Cerro Torre is the most difficult local peak to see on normal blustery days.
Lago del Desierto–Chile TrailHIKING
Some 37km north of El Chaltén (a one-hour drive on a gravel road), Lago del Desierto sits near the Chilean border. At the lake a 500m trail leads to an overlook with fine lake and glacier views. A lake trail along the eastern side extends to Candelario Mansilla in Chile.
An increasingly popular way to get to Chile is by crossing the border here with a one- to three-day trekking/ferry combination to Villa O’Higgins, the last stop on the Carretera Austral. The route is also popular with cyclists, though much of their time is spent shouldering their bike and gear through steep sections too narrow for panniers. Plans have started to put a road in here, but it may take decades.
Lomo del Pliegue Tumbado & Laguna ToroHIKING
Heading southwest from El Chaltén’s Park Ranger Office, this trail (10km and four to five hours one way) skirts the eastern face of Loma del Pliegue Tumbado going toward Río Túnel, then cuts west and heads to Laguna Toro. It’s less crowded than the main routes. The hike is gentle, but prepare for strong winds and carry extra water.
Piedra del FraileHIKING
This 16km round-trip (three hours one way) follows the Valle Río Eléctrico. There are some stream crossings with sturdy tree trunks to cross on and one bridge crossing; all are well-marked. From Hostería El Pilar walk 1km northeast on the main road to hit the signposted trailhead for Piedra del Fraile, near a big iron bridge.
TTours
Exploradores Lago del DesiertoBOATING
(%02962-493081; www.receptivochalten.com; glacier tour incl bus transfer AR$1450)
This tour takes visitors boating on Lago del Desierto, with a short trek to Glaciar Vespignani. Rates are discounted without the transfer from El Chaltén. The boat also does crossings of Lago del Desierto (US$40 to Punta Norte) for treks to Candelario Mansilla, Chile.
Patagonia AventuraADVENTURE
(%02962-493110; www.patagonia-aventura.com; Av San Martín 56, El Chaltén)
Offers cruises (AR$1100) on Lago Viedma to view Glaciar Viedma, and trekking (AR$2100) on the peninsula overlooking the glacier, or the option of doing both as part of a package (AR$2400). There used to be an option to trek on the glacier, but its recession has now made this impossible. Departs from Puerto Bahía Túnel.
Chaltén Mountain GuidesOUTDOORS
(%02962-493329; www.chaltenmountainguides.com; Río de las Vueltas 212, El Chaltén)
Licensed guides do ice-field traversing, trekking and mountaineering. Rates decrease significantly with group size. The office is in the Kaulem hotel.
Fitzroy ExpedicionesOUTDOORS
(Adventure Patagonia; %02962-436110; www.fitzroyexpediciones.com.ar; Av San Martín 56, El Chaltén; h9am-1pm & 2-8pm)
Runs trekking excursions, ice trekking on Glaciar Cagliero, kayaking and a five-day itinerary that includes trekking in the Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre area. Note that Fitzroy Expediciones does accept credit cards, unlike most businesses in town.
4Sleeping
Lodge Los TroncosHUT$
(campsites per person US$20, dm US$50)
Reservations are not possible at Lodge Los Troncos since there are no phones – simply show up. The campground has a kiosk, a restaurant and excellent services.
Hostería El PilarESTANCIA$$$
(%02962-493002; www.hosteriaelpilar.com.ar; RP 23, Km 17; s/d incl breakfast US$160/180; hwith advance reservation only Nov-Mar)
At the south end of the Lago del Desierto, travelers can stay in one of 10 cozy estancia rooms or dine in the inviting restaurant serving excellent cocina de autor (gourmet cuisine). There are trails here that lead into the park or up Valle Río Eléctrico. It’s 17km from El Chaltén.
8Getting There & Away
Parque Nacional Los Glaciares is just outside El Chaltén. Most trails start on the outskirts of town and require no transportation. Otherwise, excursions and taxis offer transfers to more distant trailheads, though costs tend to be exorbitant.
Las Lengas (%02962-493023; Antonio de Viedma 95, El Chaltén) has a minibus service to Lago del Desierto (AR$450 round-trip, two hours), leaving El Chaltén at 8am, noon and 3pm daily.
From Candelario Mansilla, Chile, the catamaran Hielo Sur (%in Chile +56-0672-431821; www.villaohiggins.com) makes border crossings.