Southern Maine: kittery to the kennebunks
Tourist bureau statistics show that Maine’s southern coast—stretching from the state line at Kittery to Portland—is the primary destination of most leisure travelers to the state. That’s no surprise, given the number of day-trippers from the Boston metropolitan area who come up here in summer to enjoy its long, sandy beaches. Thanks to quirks of geography, nearly all of Maine’s sandy shores occur along this stretch of coastline. In season, it takes some doing to find privacy or remoteness here, despite a sense of history in the coastal villages (some of them, anyway). Still, it’s not hard to find a relaxing spot, whether you prefer dunes, the lulling sound of breaking waves, or a carnival-like atmosphere in a beach town.
Waves depend on the weather; during a good Northeast blow, they pound the shores, rise above the roads, and threaten beach houses built decades ago. During balmy midsummer days, though, the ocean can be gentle as a farm pond, its barely audible waves lapping timidly at the shore as the tide creeps in, inch by inch, covering tidal pools full of crabs, barnacles, and sea snails.
One thing all the beaches here share in common: They’re washed by the chilled waters of the Gulf of Maine, which makes for, er, invigorating swimming. Though the beach season is generally brief and intense, running only from July 4th to Labor Day, the tourism season increasingly stretches into the stunningly colorful month of October, with most restaurants and hotels these days staying open to accommodate carloads of “leaf peepers.”
The towns that border these beaches—Kittery, the Yorks, Ogunquit, and the Kennebunks—include some of the oldest English settlements in the New World and some bastions of New England Old Money. That patrician historicity makes for a funky cocktail when you mix it with the trappings of middle-class roadside tourism that spring up in the mid-20th century. These are the charming sort of towns where you can stroll a shady lane lined with 19th-century mansions, then turn the corner to find a low-slung hot dog stand with a line around the block.
Kittery & the Yorks
Kittery is 60 miles N of Boston and 266 miles NE of New York City
Driving into Maine from the south, as most travelers do, you’ll find that Kittery 
is the first town to appear after crossing the big bridge spanning the Piscataqua River from New Hampshire. Once famous for its (still operating) naval yard, Kittery is now better known for its dozens of factory outlets and a hip dining-and-drinking scene that’s recently sprung up in the old Foreside neighborhood.
“The Yorks,” just to the north, are three towns that share a name, but little else. In fact, it’s rare to find three such well-defined and diverse New England archetypes within such a compact area. York Village is full of 17th-century American history and architecture in a compact area, and has a good library. York Harbor 
reached its zenith during America’s late Victorian era, when wealthy urbanites constructed cottages at the ocean’s edge; it’s the most relaxing and scenic of the three. Finally, York Beach is a fun beach town with amusements, taffy shops, a small zoo, gabled summer homes set in crowded enclaves, a great lighthouse, and two excellent beaches with sun, sand, rocks, surf, surfers, fried-fish stands, and lighthouse views.
Just outside York Village, the protrusion of land known as Cape Neddick is an excellent back-road route to Ogunquit, if you can find it (go past the police station in Short Sands, then bear right at the sign for the Cape Neddick Lobster Pound).
Essentials
arriving
By Car Kittery is accessible from either I-95 or Route 1, with well-marked exits. Coming from the south, the Yorks are reached most easily by heading for (but not taking) the Maine Turnpike; follow I-95 to a point just south of the turnpike exit, then exit to the right (“last exit before tolls”). Coming from the north, pay your toll exiting the turnpike and then take the first exit, an immediate right.
By Train Amtrak (www.amtrak.com; 
800/872-7245) operates four to five Downeaster trains daily from Boston’s North Station (which does not connect to Amtrak’s national network; you must take a subway or taxi from Boston’s South Station first) into southern Maine, stopping outside Wells, about 10 miles away from the Yorks. A one-way ticket starts at $15, and the trip takes 13⁄4 hours. From Wells, you’ll need to phone for a taxi or arrange for a pickup to get to your final destination.
By Bus The two chief bus lines serving the stretch of Maine between Portland and Kittery are Greyhound (www.greyhound.com; 800/231-2222), which has service to Wells, and C&J Trailways (www.ridecj.com; 800/258-7111), which runs a seasonal weekend service from New York to Ogunquit, Memorial Day through Columbus Day. Taking a Greyhound from New York City’s Port Authority to Wells costs from $60 to $100 one-way and takes 7 to 8 hours; from Boston, figure on paying a fare of $12 to $30 one-way and a ride of 13⁄4 hours. A New York to Ogunquit trip on C&J Trailways runs $85 and takes 6 hours. Several competing bus lines also run regular buses daily from Boston’s South Station to downtown Portsmouth, New Hampshire, which is very close to Kittery (you can actually walk over a bridge into Maine from Portsmouth). For more details, see the Portsmouth, New Hampshire, section of chapter 10 (p. 250).
The Maine State Visitor Information Center ( 207/439-1319) operates at a well-marked rest area on I-95. It’s full of info and helpful staff; has a pet exercise area and copious vending machines; and is open daily from 8am to 6pm in summer, from 9am to 5:30pm the rest of the year. (The vending machines and restrooms are open 24 hours a day.)
The Greater York Region Chamber of Commerce (www.gatewaytomaine.org; 207/363-4422) also operates another helpful visitor center, one that mirrors the shape of a stone cottage. It’s across Route 1 from the Maine Turnpike access road (right beside the Stonewall Kitchen headquarters and café, see p. 55) on Stonewall Lane. In peak season, it’s open Monday to Saturday from 9am to 5pm and Sunday from 10am to 4pm; from Labor Day through June, it’s open Monday to Friday 9am to 4pm, Saturday from 10am to 2pm, and Sunday 9am to 1pm.
Getting Around
From mid-June through Labor Day, a trackless trolley (a bus painted to look like a trolley) runs back and forth between Short Sands and Long Sands beaches in the Yorks, providing a convenient way to explore without having to be hassled with parking. Hop on the trolley (www.yorktrolley.com; 207/363-9600) at one of the well-marked stops; it’s $4 each way, $3 to sit on board for the entire loop without debarking. The trolley makes a circle through the Short Sands business district before heading out to Long Sands and proceeding all the way to the Libby’s and Camp Eaton campgrounds at the far southern end of that beach, before turning around again. (It does not travel to Nubble Light, but if you want to see the famous lighthouse, debark the bus at Nubble Light Road and hoof it a little more than a mile out to the point.) The trolley operates from late June through Labor Day daily on the half-hour, from about 9:30am until around 10:15pm.
SPECIAL Events
Swing through York in late July or early August, and you’ll notice the sidewalks are even more packed than usual for the annual York Days festival, a week-and-a-half–long civic celebration with a slate of outdoor bands, a road race, fireworks displays, and the usual small-town revelry. Highlights include a sprawling, partially tented craft fair that takes over the York Beach baseball diamond on the festival’s closing weekend and the Christmas in July ceremony out at Nubble Light, with the striking, island-bound lighthouse bedecked in holiday lights (plus a visit from Santa).
Where to Stay in Kittery & the Yorks
Airbnb rentals proliferate around Kittery and the Yorks, many of them right on the water. While there aren’t many genuine bargains to be had, you’re more likely to find last-minute lodging through online rental services than at the hotels, which fill up months in advance for peak season.
Portsmouth Harbor Inn & Spa This three-story brick manor, dating to 1879, manages to be surprisingly approachable. The small rooms are tastefully understated, with clawfoot tubs, wicker furniture, and antique furnishings. The common area downstairs stays stocked with cookies and sherry, and breakfasts are decadent, particularly the buttery baked goods that precede each morning’s hot dish. Innkeeper Lynn Bowditch knows Portsmouth and Kittery intimately and delights in suggesting ambitious itineraries—cover all the ground she recommends and you’ll have earned that hot stone massage at the adjacent spa.
6 Water St., Kittery. www.innatportsmouth.com. 
207/439-4040. 5 units. May–Oct $190–$210 double and suite; Nov–Apr $170–$200 double and suite. Packages available. Rates include breakfast. Amenities: Spa treatments; massage; library; outdoor hot tub; free Wi-Fi.
The Yorks
York Beach has a large supply of no-frills motels facing Long Sands Beach. Among those with simple accommodations are the Anchorage Inn (www.anchorageinn.com; 207/363-5112), the Grand View Inn Motel (www.grandview-york.com; 207/363-3838 or 207/363-9815), and the Sunrise Motel (www.sunrisemotel.net; 800/242-0750), all directly across the highway from the ocean.
Dockside Guest Quarters 
David and Harriette Lusty established this quiet retreat in 1954; more recent additions and new management (son Eric and wife Carol) haven’t changed the friendly, maritime flavor of the place. Situated on an island connected to the mainland by a small bridge, the inn occupies nicely landscaped grounds shady with maples and white pines. A few of the rooms are in the cozy main house, built in 1885, but the bulk of the accommodations are in small, shared, town-house-style cottages added between 1968 and 1998 down by the water. These are simply furnished, but bright and airy; most have private decks overlooking the entrance to York Harbor. Several also have woodstoves, fireplace, and/or kitchenettes (though you do pay quite a bit extra for the kitchenette units and suites). The inn also maintains a simple restaurant (run by Philip Lusty, yet another son, and his wife, Anne), and offers personalized boat tours of the harbor from its own private dock.
22 Harris Island Rd., York Harbor. www.docksidegq.com. 888/860-7428 or 207/363-2868. 25 units. $162–$263 double; $291–$350 suite. Rates include breakfast. Closed late Oct–Apr. 2-night minimum stay on weekends in summer. Packages available. Amenities: Restaurant; badminton; bike rentals; boat tours; croquet; rowboats; free Wi-Fi.
Union Bluff Hotel With its turrets, dormers, and porches, the Union Bluff looks like a 19th-century beach hotel—but it was actually built in 1989, replacing the previous (circa 1870) version of the hotel, which had burned down. Inside, the hotel is modern if bland; rooms have oak furniture, wall-to-wall carpeting, and small refrigerators. There are about 20 rooms in an annex next door, but the main inn’s rooms and views are better—the best ones are the suites on the top floor, with beach vistas (and some Jacuzzis, fireplaces, and decks). It’s amazing how low rates can plummet here midweek and off-season; but weekends, even before and after the summer, are quite expensive. The vibe is often festive, with families letting loose and a constant stream of wedding parties. The hotel’s seafood-heavy restaurant is not half bad. Step outside and you’re a half-block from Short Sands beach, T-shirt and shell shops, and a bowling alley and throwback arcade. The hotel assigns one parking spot for each room, which is great because parking is supertight in summer in Short Sands; but if you’ve brought an RV or second car, you’ll need to use the big town parking lot adjacent to the hotel—bring quarters. Lots of quarters.
8 Beach St., York Beach. www.unionbluff.com. 800/833-0721 or 207/363-1333. 71 units. Mid-June–Aug $89–$469 double and suite; rest of year $79–$289 double and suite. Packages available. Amenities: Restaurant; pub; free Wi-Fi.
York Harbor Inn Once known as the Hillcroft, the rambling York Harbor lords over the best views of York Harbor and the sea. It’s also got some history of its own: the “Cabin Room” in the main building is made of original 1637 beams (once a sail loft) shipped over from the Isles of Shoals, and lanterns came from a trolley line that once ran along what is now the highway here. The basement pub has original hitching posts where travelers tied up horses as they drank. The handsome blue Harbor Crest building uphill is from the early 18th century, and contains wonderful tilework; another outbuilding dates from 1783. The main inn’s 22 rooms are simplest, and are closest to the convivial basement pub. The adjacent Harbor Hill Inn contains the best units: all have Jacuzzis, gas fireplaces, heated bathrooms, CD players, and sea views, plus a hot tub out back. Nearby Harbor Cliffs is also a good choice, with breakfast included and a variety of room styles. The latest addition to this collection is actually the oldest building: the 1730 Harbor Crest Inn, a half-mile up the road, with wonderful common areas, porches, a variety of color schemes, king-size beds, big Jacuzzi tubs, and black-and-white tiled bathrooms.
480 York St., York Harbor. www.yorkharborinn.com. 800/343-3869 or 207/363-5119. 61 units. Late June–early Sept $179–$379 double and suite; early May–late June & early Sept–Oct $149–$349 double and suite; Nov–Apr $129–$349 double and suite. Packages available. Rates include breakfast. Harbor Crest building is pet-friendly. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; free Wi-Fi.
CAMPING
Campers lack good options around here, but might head for Dixon’s Campground (dixonscampground.com; 207/363-3626), which has a mix of wooded tent sites, RV sites, and yurts set back from busy Route 1 (just north of York proper) for $40 to $125 per night. Monthly (yes, monthly) rates are cheaper. There’s a 3-night minimum on holiday weekends; it’s open from early May through mid-September.
Where to Eat in Kittery & the Yorks
Kittery
In the span of a few years, as the Foreside neighborhood has come into its own, Kittery has evolved from a bastion of traditional lobster pounds and fried seafood joints into one of New England’s most diverse and happening food towns. In addition to the choices below, there’s terrific Indian food at Tulsi (20 Walker St., 207/451-9511) and outstanding sandwiches, breads, and pastries at the Beach Pea Baking Co. (53 State Rd., 207/439-3555)—eat at one of the tables outside or on the front porch, if you can find an open one. If you want to go the traditional Down Easter route, Chauncey Creek Lobster Pier (16 Chauncey Creek Rd., 207/439-1030] is the real deal, with lobsters fresh off the boat, brightly painted picnic tables, and a raw bar for clams and oysters. BYOB.
Anju Noodle Bar PAN-ASIAN Locals start filling this Foreside hotspot at lunch time, and the crowds don’t let up until well after dark. The five varieties of kimchi are a draw, as are the sweet-and-spicy Korean and Japanese chicken wings. But really, everybody’s coming for the ramen—big, fragrant bowls of wavy-thin noodles, bone broth, slow-roasted pork shoulder, and more, complex and savory and damn near medicinal. They’re beautiful to look at too, each bowl a bright and colorful accent to the mod, wood-toned Anju dining room. The bar fills up at night, with patrons as likely to nurse a Maine craft beer as one of the offerings on the well-curated sake menu.
7 Wallingford Sq., Kittery. www.anjunoodlebar.com. 207/703-4298. Small plates $7–$12; noodle bowls $13–$17. Sun–Thurs noon–9:30pm, Fri–Sat noon–10:30pm.
The Black Birch 
GASTROPUB Assessing this boxy, bland former post office from the outside, you wouldn’t imagine that there’s regularly a line out the door by 5pm on weekends. But the magic’s all inside: a long bar and tables made of reclaimed wood, 24 taps of ambitious regional beers and obscure imports, a turntable spinning classic vinyl, and a kitchen run by chef Jake Smith turning out totally indulgent and inventive comfort foods. Think deviled eggs stuffed with chorizo, tahini, toasted marshmallow, and more. Think deep-fried short ribs. Think the best poutine outside of Quebec, with duck confit on top and melted local cheese curds. Worth waiting in line for.
2 Government St., Kittery. www.theblackbirch.com. 207/703-2294. Small plates $9–$12; dinners $11–$17. Reservations not accepted. Tues–Thurs 3:30–10pm; Fri–Sat 3:30–11pm.
Bob’s Clam Hut FRIED SEAFOOD Operating since 1956, Bob’s manages to retain an old-fashioned flavor—despite now being surrounded on all sides by factory outlet malls, and with prices that have steadily escalated out of the “budget eats” category. It still does one thing very well: fries up plump and perfectly golden heaps of clams and other seafood, sides them with french fries and coleslaw in baskets, and puts them out with tremendous efficiency. Order at the window, get a soda from the machine, and stake out a table inside or on the deck (with its lovely view of, er, Route 1) while waiting for your number to be called. The food is surprisingly light, cooked in cholesterol-free vegetable oil; the onion rings are especially good. Fish-and-chips are also on the menu, and the lobster roll attracts foodie pilgrims from around the country. To ensure that your diet is irrevocably busted, Bob’s also dishes up soft-serve ice cream: now, that’s just overkill. But count us in.
315 Rte. 1 (west side), Kittery. www.bobsclamhut.com. 207/439-4233. Sandwiches $4–$23; dinners $10–$35. Mon–Thurs, Sun 11am–7pm; Fri–Sat 11am–8pm.
In 2011, a rewrite of Maine state law allowed the brewers of Maine’s nascent craft beer scene to operate tasting rooms very much like bars, with unlimited pours of up to a pint. It’s led to a craft-beer explosion in the Pine Tree State, and no region outside of Portland has benefited from the proliferation of tap rooms as much as the southern coast. A few of the standouts include Kittery’s Tributary Brewing Co. ( 207/351-8162), founded by venerable master brewer Tod Mott. The former post office full of picnic tables takes on a party vibe on the weekends—try the Mott the Lesser Russian Imperial Stout, a legendary brew among beer geeks, based on a recipe Mott cooked up in a previous gig. The tap room at York’s SoMe Brewing Company ( 207/703-0093) has a sports bar feel, with a flat-screen usually tuned in to some New England team. The best pours at Hidden Cove Brewing Company ( 207/646-0228) in Wells are the crisp, super quaffable, lower-alcohol brews like Castoff Session IPA and the Summer Ale with lemon peel and honey. Aging barrels line a no-frills tap room that feels like a basement rec room you hung out in as a teenager.
The Yorks
Besides the restaurants listed below, York Village harbors Fazio’s, 38 Woodbridge Rd. (turn just before the town library; 207/363-7019), a good Italian family restaurant with atmosphere. Directly on Long Sands in York Beach, Sun & Surf ( 207/363-2961) has a takeout window proffering fried seafood and ice cream—but also a dining room with standout ocean views and an increasingly sophisticated menu that now incorporates steaks, salads, pastas, tuna, and lamb. For a quick bite, I like the Long Sands General Store ( 206/363-5383), near the northern end of Long Sands beach, with pizzas, sandwiches, and other essential picnicking supplies.
Fox’s Lobster House SEAFOOD Fox’s is unabashedly commercial, and charges more than it could, but so what? You’re sitting outside, eating pre-cracked lobsters and breathing salt air, on a headland that would be worth zillions in real estate terms. Looking straight at Nubble Light. Fox’s has been here since 1966, and I can see why: It delivers a pretty intensively “Maine” experience just a few miles across the state line. You can also dine inside, in a wood-and-nautical-themed dining room, where you can get platters including side dishes: a better deal for families, just without that great lighthouse view. There’s an ice-cream window for kids as well.
8 Sohier Park Rd., York Beach. www.foxslobster.com. 207/363-2643. Lobsters $25 and up. May–June, Sun–Thurs 11:30am–8pm, Fri–Sat 11:30am–9pm; July–Aug, daily 11:30am–9pm; Sept–Oct, daily 11:30am–8pm. Closed Nov–Apr.
The Goldenrod TRADITIONAL AMERICAN Follow the neon to this beach-town classic—a York summer institution ever since it opened in 1896. It’s easy to find: Look for visitors gawking through plate-glass windows at ancient machines hypnotically churning out taffy (millions of pieces a year). The restaurant, across from the candy-making operation, is low on frills but big on atmosphere: Diners sit on stout oak furniture around a stone fireplace or elbow-to-elbow at an antique soda fountain. Breakfast offerings are New England standards, and for lunch you can eat soups, burgers, and overpriced sandwiches. But what saves the place is the candy counter, where throngs line up to buy boxes of wax-wrapped taffy “kisses” (check the striping on each candy for its flavor; I’m a peanut-butter guy, myself), almond-pocked birch bark, and other penny-candy treats. The shakes, malts, and sundaes are on the sweet side.
Railroad Rd. and Ocean Ave., York Beach. www.thegoldenrod.com. 207/363-2621. Lunch and dinner entrees $5–$10. Memorial Day–Labor Day daily 8am–10pm (until 9pm in June); Labor Day–Columbus Day Sat–Sun 8am–3pm. Closed Columbus Day–Memorial Day.
Lobster Cove SEAFOOD/FAMILY FARE Right across the street from the pounding surf of Long Sands Beach, dependable Lobster Cove is a good choice when the family is too tired to drive far in search of a feed. And a “feed” is what you’ll get here. Breakfast consists of standard, inexpensive choices such as omelets, pancakes, and eggs Benedict. Lunch runs to burgers and sandwiches, but dinner is prime time, when a standard shore dinner of lobster, corn on the cob, clam chowder, and steamed clams is hefty and good. Lobster pie is an old-fashioned New England favorite. They also do lobster rolls, clam rolls, steaks, broiled seafoods, and traditional Maine desserts such as wild blueberry pie and warm bread pudding with whiskey sauce.
756 York St., York Beach. 207/351-1100. Main courses $7–$21. Mon–Thurs 8am–8:30pm; Fri–Sat 8am–9pm; Sun 8am–8pm.
Jam Sessions in York |
Need a souvenir but too weak with hunger to shop another minute? At Stonewall Kitchen’s flagship store, on Stonewall Lane ( 207/351-2712)—just behind the huge tourist information complex at the corner of Route 1 and the access road leading to and from I-95 and the Maine Turnpike—you can sample from among the company’s delicious jams and spreads before tucking into a soup-and-sandwich special from the on-site deli. Then, hunger and birthday lists both satisfied in one fell swoop, keep browsing through a good selection of handy kitchen accessories: knives, lobster bibs, graters, and the like. Staff is friendly and helpful. It’s open daily until 8pm; the cafe, though, closes at 3pm.
Exploring Kittery
Kittery has become a shopping mecca thanks to the establishment of colonies of little factory outlet shopping malls clustered along both sides of U.S. Route 1, about 4 miles south of York. More than 100 of these outlets flank the highway, in more than a dozen strip malls. On rainy summer days, hordes of disappointed beachgoers head here and swarm the aisles; thus, parking can become tight on bad-weather days.
Since 2012 or so, the historic Foreside neighborhood has become Kittery’s snug, hip town center. Once a rough-around-the-edges district catering to off-duty shipyard workers, Foreside now hosts a few of the state’s most acclaimed bars and restaurants, plus indie-fied enterprises like eclectic arts venue The Dance Hall (www.thedancehallkittery.org; 207/703-2083) and rustic-mod accessories boutique Folk (www.shop-folk.com; 207/703-2526). It’s a great few blocks where you can crush a craft beer or a cruller while mingling with student scenesters, young families, and Navy folks in their digital blues.
Nearby, the Portsmouth Naval Shipyard faces Portsmouth, New Hampshire. This active shipyard isn’t open to the public for security reasons, but you can visit the Kittery Historical & Naval Museum ( 207/439-3080; www.kitterymuseum.com) to get a quick overview of maritime history. You’ll find ship and sub models, lighthouse lenses, scrimshaw work, diving suits, and the like—plus muskets, utensils, and tools from another era. It’s not a bad effort at all. From June through October, the museum’s open Wednesday through Sunday, from 10am to 4pm; in the off-season, it’s only open Wednesdays and Saturdays, with the same hours. Admission is $5 for adults, $3 for children, and $10 for a family. Find it by taking U.S. Route 1 to the Kittery traffic circle, then exiting for Route 236 south; that’s Rogers Road. Continue to the end and Rogers Road Extension.
From Kittery, an attractive alternative route north to York follows winding Route 103 to the historic, lost-in-time village of Kittery Point. It’s perfect for driving, though a bit busy and narrow for biking. Kittery Point homes seem to be just inches from the roadway and there are not one but two historic forts; both are parks open to the public.
Exploring the Yorks
York is split into several village centers, from colonial-era York Village to laidback York Harbor to the beach-town hubbub of York Beach. The best for walking around in is York Village , a fine destination for those curious about early American history. First settled in 1624, the village opens several homes to the public.
Tale of the tags: Kittery vs. Freeport
When visiting the Maine coast, many travelers only find time to shop once. Trouble is, there are two significant outlet centers on the southern coast—Kittery and Freeport. How to choose? Here’s my quick take:
Generally speaking, Kittery, located at the southern edge of Maine, is best for the name-brand shopper who wants to hit a large volume of places in a short time. It’s easier to do Kittery more quickly than Freeport because of the side-by-side arrangement of the various stores and the malls. Price tags tend to be lower in Kittery, too. The trade-off is the blandness of the experience: Each of these side malls offer vast parking lots and boring architecture, and you cannot safely walk from one mall to another—you need wheels.
In Kittery, the malls are clumped along Route 1 just a couple of miles north of the New Hampshire border. Though the area appears at first glance to be a conglomerated, single huge mall, in fact there are five or six distinct areas with separate entrances. Choose carefully before you make your turn. Among the best places to try among the various complexes are a Gap outlet, a Samsonite shop with knowledgeable sales help, a small but elegant Coach store, Reebok (I picked up swim trunks here for a fraction of the retail cost), Polo Ralph Lauren, J. Crew (good prices on sweaters), an Orvis sporting goods outlet, and a useful Crate & Barrel outlet. The pioneer-themed Kittery Trading Post is not all it’s hyped up to be, but at least prices are low.
Information on current outlets is available from the Kittery Outlet Association. Call 
888/548-8379 (which spells KITTERY, by the way), or visit the website at www.thekitteryoutlets.com.
There are also a couple of good places here to eat: Bob’s Clam Hut (see p. 53), Ben & Jerry’s for ice cream; or, for a sit-down meal, the Weathervane, a small New England fish-house chain that delivers value at moderate prices and is an excellent choice for families.
Finally, while visiting Kittery and the Yorks, don’t forget that Portsmouth, New Hampshire makes a worthwhile side trip—in fact, if you’re seeking culture, arts, coffee shops, and top-flight restaurants, you’ll find a wealth of options on the New Hampshire side of the river. Best of all, it’s just a half-mile from Kittery, or a few minutes’ drive from the Yorks. I’ve described this city as a side trip in greater detail in chapter 10 of this book; see p. 250 for more details.
Museums of Old York HISTORIC BUILDINGS York’s local historical society oversees the bulk of the town’s collection of historic buildings, some of which date to the early 18th century, and most of which are astonishingly well preserved or restored. Tickets are available to eight Old York–operated properties in all; one good place to start is at the Jefferds Tavern , across from the handsome old burying ground . Changing exhibits document various facets of early life. Next door is the School House , furnished as it might have been in the 19th century. A 10-minute walk along lightly traveled Lindsay Road brings you to Hancock Wharf (see box p. 250), next door to the George Marshall Store. Also nearby is the Elizabeth Perkins House, with its well-preserved Colonial Revival interiors. Finally, there are two “don’t-miss” buildings in the society’s collection. The barn-red, hill-topping Old Gaol , built in 1719 as a jail to hold criminals, debtors, and other miscreants, is said to be the oldest surviving public building in the United States; you can still see the dungeons. Just down the knoll from the jail, the bright yellow Emerson-Wilcox House , built in the mid-1700s and periodically added onto through the years, is a virtual catalog of architectural styles and early decorative arts.
207 York St., York. www.oldyork.org. 207/363-1756. Admission per building $5 adults, $3 children 6–15; pass to all buildings $12 adults, $8 children 6–15. Museums open late May–Labor Day Tues–Sat 10am–5pm, Sun 1–5pm (some properties have shorter hours). Labor Day–mid-Oct open Thurs–Sun only; closed mid-Oct–late May.
John Hancock is justly famous for his oversize signature on the Declaration of Independence, his tenure as governor of Massachusetts, and the insurance company and tall Boston building that were named for him. What’s not so well known is his involvement as a proprietor of York’s Hancock Wharf, a failed 18th-century wharf-and-warehouse enterprise that went bust. Hancock never actually set foot on the wharf, but for years locals believed he used it to stash arms, contraband, and/or goods he didn’t want taxed by those tax-happy British. It now appears that wasn’t the case, but it still makes for one of the many intriguing sites and stories in the York Village section of downtown York. (See Museums of Old York, p. 57, for more details on this neighborhood.)
Surprisingly, the wharf has a happy ending: It’s more famous today than it was then, the only 18th-century warehouse still standing on the York River. It has been designated a National Historic Site, and the York Historical Society sometimes uses it to launch or receive the occasional historic boat passing through town.
Sohier Park PARK/VIEW The small peninsula known as Cape Neddick shoots off from York’s beach areas, circles through beach views, and winds up here, at Sohier Park—a great place to look out onto Nubble Light, probably one of the ten most photographed lighthouses in the world. The light is especially lovely because it’s set on a tiny island. The park is free; gaze at the lighthouse and snap pictures from the safety of a parking lot across the swift little inlet that separates it from the mainland. There are coin-operated looking-glasses to get a better view, and a small gift shop and information kiosk in the park. In high summer season, expect a parking lot jam-packed with RVs and motorcycles—watching the crowd is half the fun. There’s also a lobster hut adjacent to the park, and an outstanding ice cream stand about 100 yards uphill from it. If you’re coming to take photos, remember that the lighthouse is trimmed in additional white lighting twice a year—for a week during July’s York Days festival and again from Thanksgiving through New Year’s.
Nubble Rd. (off Long Sands Dr.), Cape Neddick. www.nubblelight.org. Free admission. Park open year-round, 24 hr.; welcome center and restrooms open daily May–mid-Oct, 7am–7pm.
A few local strolls will allow visitors to stretch their legs and get the cobwebs out of their heads.
York Harbor and York Village are connected by a quiet pathway that follows a river and passes through gently rustling woodlands. Fisherman’s Walk departs from below Edward’s Harborside Inn, near the Stage Neck Inn. (There’s limited parking at tiny York Harbor Beach.) Follow the pathway along the river, past lobster shacks and along lawns leading up to grand shingled homes. Cross Route 103 and walk over the Wiggly Bridge (said to be, not implausibly, the smallest suspension bridge in the world), then head into the woods. You’ll soon connect with a dirt lane; follow this and you’ll emerge at Lindsay Road near Hancock Wharf (see above). The entire walk is about a mile long and, depending on your pace, will take a half-hour to 45 minutes.
Also departing from near York Harbor Beach is the Cliff Walk , a scenic little trail that follows rugged terrain along rocky bluffs and offers sweeping views of the open ocean as well as glimpses of life in some of the town’s grandest cottages. The far end of this trail has been destroyed by ocean waves and has not been rebuilt; you’ll have to retrace your steps back to the beach. The pathway is the perpetual subject of local disputes between the town and landowners seeking to limit access. The most recent developments limits traffic on the trail to the hours between sunrise and sunset, May 15 to October 15. Check signs for any new restrictions on trespassing before you set off.
Five miles northeast of town on appropriately named Mountain Road, some 5 miles of mostly wooded trails crisscross the Mount Agamenticus Conservation Region. It’s a miniature wilderness bastion just minutes away from the din of Route 1, with 692-foot-tall Mount Agamenticus at its heart. The summit affords knockout views of the ocean on the one hand and New Hampshire’s soaring Mount Washington on the other. Watch for migrating raptors, white-tailed deer, and even the occasional moose.
Finally, there’s the small peninsula ending at an island capped by the scenic Nubble Light 
lighthouse. This lighthouse, probably one of the most photographed in the world, is undeniably attractive—and absolutely free to view from the safety of a parking lot set across the swift little inlet that separates it from the mainland. There’s little walking to be done, but this is a terrific spot for a picnic; walk a minute downhill and right on Nubble Road to Dunne’s Ice Cream for some of Maine’s best homemade ice cream for dessert. (The lighthouse is lit up for the holiday season around Thanksgiving each year. If you happen to be here in late November inquire about the shuttle from Short Sands Beach out to the vantage point.) For information on additional lighthouses, see “Lighthouses: A Tour Up the Coast,” on p. 20 in chapter 2.
Wheeling It to the Sayward-Wheeler House |
If you’d like to get a taste of York’s long history, but lack the stamina for the full-court Museums of Old York visit (p. 57), here’s your best option: Stop by the Sayward-Wheeler House at 9 Barrell Lane Extension in York Harbor, run by the group Historic New England. In this well-preserved merchant’s home dating from 1760, you’ll find booty (such as fine china) plundered during the 1745 Siege of Louisbourg, which routed the French out of Nova Scotia. But you’ll have to do some planning: The home is open alternate Saturdays only, from June through mid-October; tours are given hourly from 11am to 4pm. Admission is $5 for adults, $4 for seniors, and $2.50 for students—but free if you join Historic New England. For more information, call the home ( 207/384-2454) or the organization’s home office in Boston (www.historicnewengland.org; 617/227-3956).
On the Water
For a duck’s-eye view of the local terrain, visit Excursions Coastal Maine Outfitting Co. in Cape Neddick (www.excursionsinmaine.com, 207/363-0181). This outfitter offers half- day, daily, and weekly sea-kayak rentals and tours—it costs $60 per adult for a guided half-day excursion, $50 for a child, for example—along the lovely local coastline. For more dramatic paddling, ask about sunrise, sunset, full-moon, and overnight kayaking trips. The shop is located on Route 1, between Ogunquit and York; go north 5 or 6 miles from York’s information hut near the turnpike exit.
Beaches in the Yorks
York Beach actually consists of two beaches, Long Sands Beach and Short Sands Beach , separated by a rocky headland. Long Sands has views of Nubble Light (see p. 58 above) and boats far out to sea; Short Sands, as the name suggests, is more compact and surrounded by quaintly appealing arcades, hotels, and grand summer homes.
Both beaches have plenty of room for sunning and Frisbees when the tide is out. When the tide is in, though, both become narrow and cramped. Short Sands fronts the honky-tonk town of York Beach, with its candlepin bowling, taffy-pulling machine, and video arcades. It’s a better pick for families traveling with kids who have short attention spans. Long Sands runs along Route 1A, directly across from a line of motels, summer homes, and convenience stores. Parking at both beaches is metered in summer; pay heed, as enforcement is strict and you must feed the meters with quarters until 9pm, all 7 days of the week. (At the end of summer, though, they decapitate the meters—literally—and parking is subsequently free and plentiful until the next Memorial Day.)
Public restrooms are available at both beaches; other services, including snacks, are provided by local restaurants and vendors.
A Side Trip to South Berwick
It’s tiny, it’s not on the tourist map, and it’s not on the coast, yet little South Berwick, Maine, provides a worthwhile detour back into Maine’s colonial—and literary—history. Think about taking a few hours to explore it if raindrops happen to be pelting York Beach and ruining your beach outing.
Spotlight on maine diners, Part #1
One thing you’ll notice as you traverse the Maine coast is a preponderance of diners.
What gives? Ironically, the greasy spoons and dining cars that sprang up roadside during Maine’s post-war auto tourism boom tend these days to be the haunts of fervent locals, who congregate daily in their kaffeeklatsches on the diner stools. Expect a steady stream of hunting caps, thick accents, doughnuts, eggs, and Red Sox or Patriots talk (depending on the season). You’d do well to sample one or two of them while on the road.
Heading north from York to Ogunquit along Route 1, you could easily blow right by the reddish-hut icon that is Flo’s Steamed Hot Dogs (no phone) in Cape Neddick—a couple of miles north of York, in the middle of nowhere, at a bend in the road—without noticing. But if you crave a winner of a wiener, screech to a halt in the dirt parking lot and give it a whirl. You’ll wait in the line, which resembles an assembly line: The steamed dogs here with the secret-recipe house relish are cheap ($2.50) and good, but they can only do them 50 at a time. If your dog’s number 51, bring a paperback. There are only six seats, so you’ll probably have to eat in the car, too. Come anyway. The hut is closed Wednesdays, and they don’t take credit cards—what did you expect?
A little farther north, also on Route 1 but in Wells, the Maine Diner ( 207/646-4441) is a classic, though perhaps getting a little too famous for its own good. (They’ll page you when a table is ready.) But worry not, there’s a reason why they’ve just passed the “four million served” mark. The lobster pie and hot lobster roll are famous and delicious, as is a plate of baked scallops. Red flannel hash? Pot roast? They’ve got it—as well as the “Clam-o-rama,” a sampler of clam items. They serve wine and beer here, too—very unusual.
In the working-class former milltown of Biddeford, Palace Diner ( 207/284-0015) requires you to veer a few blocks off Route 1 as you pass through town. The detour is rewarded by a throwback dining car with just 15 stools. On any given weekend morning, it’s a safe bet that half are occupied by diners who’ve traveled from Portland or farther, brunch pilgrims who come for dishes like light and sweet challah French toast and the gut-buster deluxe breakfast sandwich—with egg, bacon, jalapenos, cheddar, and mayo on a perfectly griddled English muffin. The simple lunch menu of burgers, tuna sandwich, and fried chicken is similarly retro delish.
The two most important structures in town are the late-18th-century Hamilton House, 40 Vaughan’s Lane ( 207/384-2454)—a solid riverside home, with fine gardens and grounds—and its contemporary, the Sarah Orne Jewett House, 5 Portland Street ( 207/384-2454), a 1774 Georgian where the famous Maine author lived. Her desk overlooks the village’s main crossroads. Both homes are open to the public from June through mid-October, on slightly different schedules. Hamilton House is open Wednesday to Sunday from 11am to 4pm, while the Jewett House is open Friday through Sunday (same hours); tours are offered on the hour at each property. It costs $10 per adult ($9 seniors, $5 students) to visit Hamilton House, and $8 per person ($7 seniors, $4. students) to tour the Jewett House.
If you’re looking for some nature, take the kids to Vaughan Woods State Park ( 207/384-5160), down Oldsfields Road just off Route 236 (a bit south of the South Berwick town center). Set along the quiet Salmon Falls River, the park features picnic areas and a hiking trail through groves of old-growth pine and hemlock. It’s open Memorial Day to Labor Day; the admission fee is $4 per non-Maine resident adult, $1 for seniors and children age 5 to 11.
For golfers, the outstanding The Links at Outlook golf course (www.outlookgolf.com; 207/384-4653) on Route 4 is a fine, links-style track of bent grass fairways and greens. The greens fees for 18 holes will run you around $55 per person in high summer season; it’s cheaper on weekdays, afternoons, and in spring and fall. Carts cost extra.
From York, South Berwick is quickly reached via Route 91 (which shoots west off Route 1 just south of the Maine Turnpike interchange for York). It’s a ride of about 20 minutes.
Ogunquit
15 miles NE of Kittery
Ogunquit (Oh-gun-quit) is a busy little beachside town that has attracted vacationers and artists for more than a century. Although it’s certainly notable for the abundant and elegant summer-resort architecture, Ogunquit is probably most famous for the 31⁄2-mile white-sand beach, backed by grassy dunes, that dominates the town. This beach serves as the town’s front porch, and most everyone drifts over there at least once a day when the sun is shining. As a bonus, a wonderful walking trail known as the Marginal Way begins at the beach, then climbs the cliffs above tide pools to great views back onto the sand and ocean.
Ogunquit’s fame as an art colony dates from around 1890, when Charles H. Woodbury arrived and declared the place an “artist’s paradise.” He was soon followed by artists such as Walt Kuhn, Elihu Vedder, and Yasuo Kuniyoshi, not to mention Rudolph Dirks, author of the “Katzenjammer Kids” comic. (During the latter part of the 19th century, the town later found another sort of fame as a quiet destination for gay regional travelers; today, many local enterprises here are still owned by gay proprietors.)
Despite its architectural grace and civility, the town is narrow—there’s only one main street—and can become seriously overrun with tourists (and their cars) during peak summer season, especially on weekends. If you don’t like crowds, best to visit in the shoulder seasons or simply hit up another destination along the coast. Other advice: If you arrive early in the morning, stake out a spot on the long beach.
Essentials
arriving
Ogunquit is right on U.S. Route 1, exactly midway between York and Wells—which means it’s a long way to either of the nearest convenient turnpike exits. Take either exit 7 (York) or exit 19 (Wells) off the Maine Turnpike, a toll road. Proceed to U.S. Route 1 and follow it north from York or south from Wells, turning seaward (left if you’re traveling south, right if you’re coming from the south) at the confusing intersection at the center of town (see below) and follow Shore Road to reach Perkins Cove and the bulk of the shops, accommodations, and eateries. Or, for the best beach access, take the other prong of the intersection to Beach Street.
Visitor Information
The Ogunquit Welcome Center (www.ogunquit.org; 207/646-2939), is on U.S. Route 1, just south of the village center. It’s open daily from Memorial Day to Columbus Day (until 8pm on weekends during the peak summer season), and from Monday to Saturday during the off season. Helpfully, it has restrooms.
Getting Around
Ogunquit’s entrance is a horrid three-way intersection that seems intentionally designed to cause massive traffic tie-ups. Parking in and around the village is tight and relatively expensive for small-town Maine ($10–$25 per day in various lots). As a result, the town is best navigated on foot or by bike.
A number of trackless “trolleys” ( 207/646-1411)—actually buses—with names like Dolly and Ollie (you get the idea) run all day from mid-May to Columbus Day between Perkins Cove and the Wells town line to the north, with detours to the sea down Beach and Ocean streets. These trolleys are very handy, and they stop everywhere. (There’s a map of stops posted online at www.ogunquittrolley.com.) Rides cost $2 one-way (children under 10 $1.50); it’s worth the expense to avoid driving and parking hassles and limits.
special Events
A pre-Halloween festival in late October, the Ogunquit Fest, offers 3 days of arts, crafts, costumes, and a parade; it’s best for families with kids. Call 207/646-2939 for more information.
Where to Stay in Ogunquit
There are many family-owned budget- to moderately-priced motel operations around Ogunquit, especially along Route 1. Try the following three choices for a combination of affordability and amenities. The family-friendly Colonial Village Resort (www.colonialvillageresort.com; 800/422-3341) on Route 1 is not a resort—but with two pools, a Jacuzzi, tennis court, free doughnuts, coin-op laundries, some weekly rental cottages and apartments, and free rowboats to cross the tidal river to the beach, it’s almost a steal for families most of the year. Most rooms have kitchenettes. It’s usually open from April until November, with double rooms starting as low as $65; summer rates, however, begin at around $120 per night. Just a few steps from Ogunquit’s downtown crossing, the meticulously maintained Studio East Motel, 267 Main Street (www.studioeastmotel.com; 207/646-7297) is open late March to early December, with peak-season rates running from $139 to $209 double. The rooms are basic, but all have refrigerators, telephones, TVs, and Wi-Fi, and there are a few two-bedroom suites. The quiet Riverside Motel, 50 Riverside Lane (www.riversidemotel.com; 207/646-2741), has great marina views and Wi-Fi, as well as a convenient footbridge leading directly over the tidal inlet to Perkins Cove, which saves you the parking hassles and fees. Rooms here run $109 to $250 double, depending on the season.
Many locals don’t mind getting out of town during the busy summers, so online rentals are plentiful. Try Airbnb and the like for short stays and Seaside Vacation Rentals ( 207/646-3232; www.seasiderentals.com) or Jean Knapp Rentals ( 207/646-4548; www.jeanknapp.com) to rent weekly.
Beachmere Inn In a town of motels, simple B&B’s, and condos, the Beachmere excels. Operated by the same family since 1937, this quiet, well-run cliff-top inn sprawls across a scenic lawn where repeat visitors have reclined for decades. Nearly every unit gives you an amazing look up or down the beach, and all have kitchenettes. The original Victorian section dates from the 1890s and is the most fun; it’s all turrets, big porches, angles, and bright beachy interiors. Next door is the modern Beachmere South, with spacious rooms and plenty of private balconies or patios—those on the end have absolutely knockout views. A new wing (Beachmere West) was added in 2008, with a small but nice little hot tub, exercise room, and children’s play area; units in this wing have sitting rooms and bigger bathrooms. Larger groups traveling together should also inquire about several off-property cottages a short walk away. The inn is adjacent to the Marginal Way footpath, which is terrific for walks and beach access. The inn’s now open year-round: you can rent snowshoes in winter to (carefully) stroll the path.
62 Beachmere Place, Ogunquit. www.beachmereinn.com. 800/336-3983 or 207/646-2021. 53 units. June–Aug $190–$295 double, $360–$395 suite, $560 cottage; May and Sept–mid-Nov $90–$220 double, $200–$314 suite, $295–$424 cottage; mid-Nov–May $70–$125 double, $160–$215 suite, $260 cottage. Rates include continental breakfast. 3-night minimum in summer. Amenities: Lounge; beach access; children’s play room; Jacuzzi; spa; restaurant; free Wi-Fi.
Cliff House This complex of modern buildings, replacing a former grand hotel, completed a monster renovation and rebrand in 2016. Keeping up with the ever-expanding southern Maine tourism season, it’s now a year-round resort, and it offers some of the best hotel-room ocean views in Maine: nearly a 360-degree panorama, in some cases. There are a number of different styles of rooms, but the overall vibe is clean seaside contemporary, with minimalist art on the walls, digital everything, midcentury-looking folding chairs, and crisp Cuddledown linens. A vanishing-edge pool fronting the sea does indeed seem to disappear into the blue yonder, and there’s an upscale restaurant with knockout vistas. The spa and fitness facility, brand-new in 2016, dispenses a wide range of soothing treatments and exercise programs.
591 Shore Rd., Ogunquit. www.cliffhousemaine.com. 207/361-1000 or 855/502-5433. 227 units. June–Aug $389–$639 double, $729–$1799 suite; Sept–Nov $279–$439 double, $729–$989 suite; Dec–May $209–$379 double, $579–$729 suite. Holiday rates are higher. Packages available. Dogs welcome for $100 fee. Amenities: Restaurants; bar; fitness center; Jacuzzi; indoor pool; outdoor pool; fire pits; room service; spa; free Wi-Fi.
The Dunes on the Waterfront This classic motor court (built circa 1936) has made the transition into the modern luxury age more gracefully than any other vintage motel I’ve seen. It has one six-unit motel-like building, but most of the rooms are in gabled cottages of white clapboard and green shutters; these have full kitchens and bathrooms. Plenty of old-fashioned charm remains in many of the units, with vintage maple furnishings, oval braided rugs, maple floors, knotty pine paneling, and louvered doors. Most of the cottages also have wood-burning fireplaces. The complex is set on 12 acres, wedged between busy Route 1 and the ocean, but somehow stays quiet and peaceful; Adirondack chairs overlook a lagoon, and guests can borrow a rowboat to get across to the beach.
518 U.S. Rte. 1, Ogunquit. www.dunesmotel.com. 888/623-0244. 36 units. $115–$390 double; $205–$575 cottage. Mid-June–mid-Sept 1-week minimum stay in cottages, 3-night minimum the rest of the year; July–Aug 2-week minimum stay in 2-bedroom cottages. Packages available. Closed Nov–late Apr. Amenities: Outdoor pool; watersports equipment rental; free Wi-Fi.
Cruising the Wells-Ogunquit axis, foodies will want to check out venerable Congdon’s Doughnuts Family Restaurant & Bakery ( 207/646-4219) on Route 1 between the two towns. Clint and Dot “Nana” Congdon moved to Maine and opened a family style restaurant in 1945; Nana’s sinkers proved so popular that she relocated the whole operation to Wells 10 years later and went into the doughnut business full-time. Chocolate-chocolate is ever-popular, but you can’t go wrong with almost anything else among the dozens of choices—pillowy raised doughnuts; filled blueberry doughnuts; butter crunch, honey-dipped, sugar twist, and chocolate honey doughnuts . . . or one of the seasonal specials such as maple, apple, or pumpkin doughnuts. You can also eat diner meals here, most of which involve fried food and/or breakfast fare. Sure, they added a drive-through window a while back, but this place retains its original character (and that includes the local characters dining inside). The secret? They use lard. Yes, lard. Schedule the EKG now. Congdon’s is open Thursday through Sunday, year-round from 6am to 3pm.
Marginal Way House Hotel This simple, old-fashioned compound centers on a four-story, mid-19th-century guesthouse with summery, basic rooms and white-painted furniture; the whole complex is plunked down on a large, grassy lot on a quiet cul-de-sac, and it’s hard to believe you’re smack in the middle of busy Ogunquit. But you are: the beach and village are each just a few minutes’ walk away. Room no. 7, despite its skinny twin beds, has a private porch and canopy and ocean views. The main building is surrounded by four more contemporary buildings that lack charm, but rooms here are mostly comfortable and bright; the “motel” building only has rooms with double beds, but the Wharf House has a cool quietude about it, enhanced by white linens and shady trees. Some units have little decks with views; all rooms have refrigerators and televisions, but none have phones. The property also maintains some one- and two-bedroom efficiency apartments (some have minimum stays); inquire when booking.
22-24 Wharf Lane, Ogunquit. www.marginalwayhouse.com. 207/646-8801. 30 units (1 with private bathroom down hall). Early June–Labor Day $129–$299 double; mid-Apr–early June and early Sept–mid-Nov $79–$209 double. $15 extra charge for more than 2 people (except kids under 3). Closed mid-Nov–mid-Apr. Pets allowed off season only; advance notice required. Amenities: Free Wi-Fi.
Nellie Littlefield Inn & Spa Of the many B&Bs and boardinghouses filling downtown Ogunquit, this might be the friendliest. The handsome 1889 home stands at the edge of the town’s compact commercial district, and features elegant Queen Anne–style detailing. All rooms are carpeted and feature a mix of modern and antique reproduction furnishings; all have refrigerators. Rooms to the rear have private decks, although views are limited—mostly looking out on a motel next door. The most spacious room is the third-floor J. H. Littlefield suite, with a fireplace in both the bedrooms and living area, while the most unique unit is probably the circular Grace Littlefield room in the upper turret, overlooking the street. The basement features a compact fitness room. Hospitality remains a strong selling point here.
27 Shore Rd., Ogunquit. www.nliogunquit.com. 207/646-1692. 8 units. June–Sept $139–$259 double; Mar–May and Oct–Dec $139–$169 double. Holiday rates higher. Rates include full breakfast. 2- to 5-night minimums depending on room and season. Weekends only Jan–Feb. No children. Amenities: Fitness center; Jacuzzi (few units); outdoor hot tub; spa; free Wi-Fi.
Terrace by the Sea Overlooking Ogunquit Beach, this cluster of six modern buildings offers wide-open ocean views from many rooms. A landscaped lawn dotted with deck chairs overlooks the water, while a boardwalk leads to the beach, a 5-minute walk away. There’s also a nice heated outdoor pool, free Wi-Fi, and excellent customer service. Rooms of varying size and price range are simply furnished with colonial reproductions; eight rooms have kitchenettes, and many have private decks. Children ages 5 and under are welcome in the off season.
23 Wharf Lane, Ogunquit. www.terracebythesea.com. 207/646-3232. 61 units. Late May–Oct $87–$312 double; late Mar–late May and Nov–mid-Dec $76–$192 double. Closed Jan–Mar. Amenities: Outdoor pool, free Wi-Fi.
Where to Eat in Ogunquit
Excepting Portland, Ogunquit has got to be the latest-open-hours town in Maine: Amazingly, many places stay open until 10 or 11pm in summer.
Where the main Route 1 strip meets Perkins Cove Road, you’ll find a tremendous variety of bakeries, coffee shops, markets, and restaurants. Bread & Roses Bakery, 246 Main St. ( 207/646-4227), skillfully turns out cupcakes, peanut-butter-and-chocolate cake, raspberry mousse, cookies, and the like; there’s outdoor seating as well. The Village Food Market, 230 Main St. ( 207/646-2122), stocks good wines, ready-to-go meals, and staples, and it also has a small deli; try the house red-eye coffee.
There are also several lobster pounds packed into and around the little downtown, most of them seasonal; try the Ogunquit Lobster Pound (504 Main St.; 207/646-2516), Oarweed (65 Perkins Cove Rd.; 207/646-4022), or Barnacle Billy’s (50 Perkins Cove Rd.; 800/866-5575 or 207/646-5575). For a casual dinner, friendly La Pizzeria, 239 Main St. ( 207/646-1143), dishes out dependable sandwiches, meatballs, and pizza pies—plus it stays open later than just about anyplace else in Maine (usually until 11pm in summer). Like most places in town, though, it’s closed in winter.
Breakfast in Ogunquit |
Standout breakfast joints abound in Ogunquit. The excellent Caffé Prego (see p. 68) recently absorbed much of the menu and kitchen staff of the dearly departed Amore Breakfast, an Ogunquit institution for a quarter-century. Also check out the reliable Egg & I, 501 Main St. ( 207/646-8777; no credit cards), and the little Cove Café, 4 Oarweed Rd. ( 207/646-2422), near Perkins Cove.
Caffé Prego ITALIAN BISTRO Already beloved for its brick oven pizzas and classic pasta dishes like a rich Bolognese and veal saltimbocca. Caffé Prego added breakfast in 2016 after absorbing some of the staff and menu from a popular café down the road, the much-beloved Amore Breakfast. Expect variations on the eggs Benedict theme and a big slate of creative, yummy omelets. The outdoor seating area has lovely landscaping and overlooks the heart of town. Word to the wise: Caffé Prego is known for its desserts, from more than 25 flavors of creamy, house-made gelato to airy and rich éclairs and tartufatas.
44 Shore Rd., Ogunquit. www.cafeprego.com. 207/646-7734. Breakfast items $7–$15. Sandwiches $10–$20. Dinner entrees $14–$24. Daily 7:30am–9:30pm. Closed late Oct to early Apr.
Five-O Shore Road NEW AMERICAN A fine choice if you’re looking for a meal you can brag about without spending a whole day’s vacation budget. Chef James Walter got a 2016 Chef of the Year nod from the state’s restaurant association; his menu is eclectic in a brasserie/supper-clubby kind of way. You might order terrific steak frites or a roasted lamb loin, but also great clam chowder and pasta dishes. Of course, you can get a Maine lobster in season, too, perhaps served with shaved truffles and cream. There’s also a cool cocktail lounge with a long list of creative martinis. It’s like the Rat Pack wanted a casual coastal place to kick back in.
50 Shore Rd., Ogunquit. www.five-oshoreroad.com. 207/646-5001. Reservations strongly recommended in summer. Small plates $9–$18, main courses $20–$40. May–Sept Mon–Sat 5–9pm, Sun 10am–2pm and 5–9pm; call for hours outside peak season.
MC Perkins Cove SEAFOOD/NEW AMERICAN Chef-partners Mark Gaier and Clark Frasier endeared themselves to Ogunquit (and picked up a coveted James Beard Award) with a groundbreaking, white tablecloth, farm-to-table restaurant called Arrows back in the ’90s. It closed years ago, but not before “M” and “C” opened this sleek bistro on the best real estate in town. MC Perkins Cove manages to be fun rather than stuffy. Okay, no bathing suits are allowed in the dining room, but still: Expect big food, even on the “small” plates. Lobster rolls, chopped salads, calamari, oysters on half shell, and crab cakes give way to more sophisticated starters such as mussels in curry sauce, smoked trout rillette, and country ham paté. Entrees might include steamed lobster, sesame-encrusted trout, Kobe burgers, grilled tuna, hanger steak, or a piece of plank-roasted fish, plus one of the so-labeled “evil carbos” (cheesy mashed potatoes, onion rings, and so forth). Desserts are wonderful: brown-butter brownies with vanilla ice cream, burnt orange caramel, and candied orange peel; toffee pudding with bourbon caramel; a bittersweet chocolate cake with chocolate sauce and pistachio crème anglaise; or peppermint stick ice cream with cookies.
111 Perkins Cove Rd., Ogunquit. www.mcperkinscove.com. 207/646-6263. Reservations recommended. Lunch entrees $11–$25; dinner entrees $22–$34. Late May—mid-Oct daily 11:30am–9pm; rest of year closed Mon and Tues. Closed Jan.
The village center is good for an hour or two of browsing among the boutiques, or sipping a cappuccino at one of the several coffee emporia. From the village, you can walk to scenic Perkins Cove along Marginal Way , a gorgeous mile-long ocean-side pathway that departs across from the Seacastles Resort on Shore Road. En route, it passes tide pools, pocket beaches, and rocky, fissured bluffs, all worth exploring. This is one of Maine’s best public trails. The seascapes can be spectacular, but the Way can also get extremely crowded during fair-weather weekends or toward sunset. Early morning is a good time to avoid crowds.
Perkins Cove , accessible either from Marginal Way or by driving south on Shore Road and veering left at the Y-shaped intersection, is a small, well-protected harbor that attracts many visitors and is often heavily congested. A handful of galleries, restaurants, and T-shirt shops cater to the tourist trade from a cluster of quaint buildings between harbor and sea. (If teeming crowds and tourist enterprises are not the reason you came to Maine, steer clear of Perkins Cove.) An intriguing pedestrian drawbridge is operated by whoever happens to be handy.
Ogunquit Museum of American Art MUSEUM Not far from Perkins Cove, this is one of the best—and most beautiful—small art museums in the nation (that’s not just me talking; the director of New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art said so, too). It’s only open in summer and fall, however. Set back from the road in a grassy glen overlooking the rocky shore, the museum’s spectacular view initially overwhelms the artwork as visitors walk through the door. But stick around for a few minutes—the changing exhibits in this architecturally engaging modern building of cement block, slate, and glass will get your attention soon enough. Its curators have a track record of staging superb shows and attracting national attention. The permanent collection holds work by seascape master Marsden Hartley and many members of the Ogunquit Colony, including Woodbury, Hamilton Easter Field, and Robert Laurent.
543 Shore Rd., Ogunquit. www.ogunquitmuseum.org. 207/646-4909. $10 adults, $9 seniors and students; children under 12 free. May–Oct, daily 10am–5pm.
Beaches in Ogunquit
Ogunquit’s main beach is more than 3 miles long, though its width varies with the tides. This beach appeals to everyone: the livelier scene at the south end near the town itself; the more remote and unpopulated stretches to the north, with their sand dunes; and the clusters of summer homes that lie beyond. The most popular access point is the foot of Beach Street, which runs into Ogunquit Village. This beach ends at a sandy spit, where the Ogunquit River flows into the sea; here you’ll find a handful of informal restaurants. It’s also the most crowded part of the beach. Less congested options are Footbridge Beach (turn on Ocean Avenue off Route 1 north of the village center) and Moody Beach (turn on Eldridge Avenue in Wells). Restrooms and changing rooms are maintained at all three beaches.
For evening entertainment, head for the Ogunquit Playhouse ( 207/646-2402), a 750-seat summer-stock theater right on U.S. Route 1 (just south of the main town intersection) with an old-style look that has garnered a solid reputation for its careful, serious attention to stagecraft. The theater has entertained Ogunquit since 1933, attracting noted actors such as Bette Davis, Tallulah Bankhead, and Sally Struthers performing in shows like A Chorus Line and Guys and Dolls. Performance tickets generally cost in the range of $40 to $80 per person, and the season runs from May through December.
Anchoring Main Street, the humble Leavitt Theatre (www.leavittheatre.com; 207/646-3123), at 259 Main Street, dates to 1923; its arched marquee is something of a local landmark. Locals so adore the indie moviehouse and performance space that they scraped up $60,000 to save the place a few years back. On a rainy day, catch everything from first-run popcorn flicks to silent film festivals; live acts include nationally touring comedians, burlesque shows, and local rock bands. Did I mention the place serves beer and wine?
A Side Trip to Laudholm Farm
About 8 miles north of Ogunquit (bear right from Route 1 onto Route 9 just north of the beach town of Wells) is the Wells Reserve at Laudholm ( 207/646-4521), a historic saltwater farm owned by the nonprofit Laudholm Trust since 1986. The 1,600-acre property—locals just call it “Laudholm farm”—was originally the summer home of 19th-century railroad baron George Lord but is now used for estuarine research. The farm has 7 miles of trails through diverse ecosystems, which range from salt marsh to forest to dunes. A visitor center in the regal Victorian farmhouse will get you oriented. Tours are available, or you can explore the grounds on your own. Parking costs $5 per adult daily from Memorial Day through Labor Day, $1 per guest 6 to 16. You pay by donation the rest of the year. There’s never an admission charge to the grounds or visitor center, and the 7 miles of trails here are open daily from 7am to dusk. The visitor center is open 10am to 4pm daily (closed weekends in the off season).
The farm is reached by turning east from Route 1 on Laudholm Farm Road at the blinking light just north of Harding Books. Bear left at the fork, then turn right into the farm’s entrance.
The Kennebunks
10 miles NE of Ogunquit
“The Kennebunks” consist of the side-by-side villages of Kennebunk and Kennebunkport, both situated along the shores of small rivers and both claiming a portion of rocky coast. The region was first settled in the mid-1600s and flourished after the American Revolution, when ship captains, boat builders, and prosperous merchants constructed imposing, solid homes. The Kennebunks are famed for their striking historical architecture and expansive beaches; make time to explore both.
A quick primer: Kennebunk proper is mostly clustered around Route 1, but it stretches towards the coast to the junction of Route 9 and Route 35, an area known as Lower Village. This is where you’ll find the White Barn Inn (p. 77), Toroso (p. 77), and much of the town’s hospitality infrastructure. Just across the Kennebunk River from the Lower Village begins Kennebunkport. But for the river, Kennebunkport’s trim downtown, called Dock Square, is indistinguishable from the Lower Village, leading to frequent confusion about which town one is actually in (which is why Mainers tend to refer to both towns as a unit). On the north side of the river, Kennebunkport extends eastward to take in both million-dollar oceanfront homes (including the Bush family estate at Walker’s Point) and the mellower (and scenic) fishing village of Cape Porpoise (see p. 81).
While summer is the busy season along the coast, winter has its charms: The grand architecture is better seen through leafless trees. When the snow flies, guests find solace in front of a fire at one of the inviting inns.
arriving
Kennebunk is just off exit 25 of the Maine Turnpike; follow signs east into town. You can also get here by taking Route 1 from York and Ogunquit. To reach Kennebunkport, exit for Kennebunk and continue through town on Port Road (Route 35) 31⁄2 miles. At the traffic light, turn left and cross the small bridge.
Visitor Information
The Kennebunk-Kennebunkport Chamber of Commerce, 17 Western Avenue (www.visitthekennebunks.com; 207/967-0857), can answer questions year-round by phone or at its offices in Lower Village beside the H.B. Provisions grocery store. The Kennebunkport Information Center ( 207/967-8600), operated by an association of local businesses, is off Dock Square (next to Ben & Jerry’s) and is open daily in summer and fall.
getting around
Several higher-end inns in the Kennebunks offer free shuttles downtown. Otherwise, a local “trolley” (actually a bus) makes several convenient stops in and around the two towns and also serves the best of the local beaches; it picks up passengers about once per hour from 10am until 4pm (until 3pm in spring and fall). It’s expensive, though: The fare comes in the form of a day pass costing $16 per adult or $6 per child. At least the pass includes unlimited opportunities to jump on and off the trolley during the day you are using it. Call 207/967-3686 for more details, or check the trolley’s schedule online at www.intowntrolley.com.
Where to Stay in the Kennebunks
Lodging in the Kennebunks tends towards the stately and upscale, and most of it is crowded around the mouth of the Kennebunk River, near the twin vacation epicenters of Lower Village and Dock Square. Since 2009, a chi-chi developer concern called the Kennebunkport Resort Collection has been reshaping—some would say elevating—the hospitality scene. KRC properties like Hidden Pond (p. 74), The Tides Beach Club (www.tidesbeachclubmaine.com; 800/632-3224), and the Lodge on the Cove (www.lodgeonthecove.com; 800/879-5778), among five other properties, offer boutique luxury at peak season rates that begin at $300 a night and spiral upwards from there. Some locals resent the gradual chic-ening of the Kennebunks, but there’s no denying the attractiveness of the properties.
There are still some budget options in the Kennebunks, clustered away from the main tourism district, along Route 1 and the interstate in the mainland section of Kennebunk. A surprisingly reasonable choice inland is the Kennebunk Inn (www.thekennebunkinn.com; 207/985-3351), at 45 Main Street, set in a former private home built in 1799. Cozy doubles go for $220–$245 in July and August, $129–$180 in June and September, and even cheaper in the off-season. The in-house restaurant, Academe, is a known for its adventurous lobster applications—lobster pot pie, lobster “lo’Maine,” and the like.
Beach House Inn This is a good choice if you’d like to be close to the people-watching, dog-walking action on and above Kennebunk Beach. The inn was built in 1891 but has been extensively modernized and expanded. The rooms here aren’t necessarily historic, but most have Victorian furnishings and historic-feeling touches like wrought-iron bedframes, plus nice framed photographs of beach landscapes. Suites have panoramic views of the ocean. But the main draw here might be the lovely porch, where you can stare out at the pebble beach across the road and idly watch the bikers and in-line skaters. The inn has bikes and canoes for guests to use and provides beach chairs and towels.
211 Beach Ave., Kennebunk. www.beachhseinn.com. 207/967-3850. 34 units. $129–$249 double; $200–$560 cottage and suite. Rates include continental breakfast. Packages available. 2-night minimum on weekends. Closed Jan–March. Amenities: Bikes; canoes; spa; fitness studio; free Wi-Fi in common areas.
Franciscan Guest House This former dormitory on the 200-acre grounds of St. Anthony’s Monastery is a unique lodging choice. The 60 or so rooms are basic and clean, with private bathrooms; guests can stroll the lovely riverside grounds or walk to Dock Square, about 10 minutes away. There’s also a decent pool. It’s not nearly as inexpensive as it used to be, though—the brothers have wised up to modern capitalism, and rates have escalated as a result. (They even have suites now.) Nevertheless, the place is still a fairly good bargain, especially given the fine walking trails and its position close to local beaches and restaurants.
28 Beach Ave., Kennebunk. www.franciscanguesthouse.com. 207/967-4865. 60 units. $59–$179 double; $89–$249 suite. Rates include continental breakfast. Closed mid-Dec–mid-March. Amenities: Outdoor pool; free Wi-Fi.
White Barn Inn As it has long done, the venerable White Barn goes the extra mile and sets a standard to which other resorts can only hope to aspire. This is arguably the state’s best inn-style lodging, with its best inn dining (see p. 77). Upon checking in, guests are shown to a parlor and served a drink, while valets gather luggage and park cars. The atmosphere here is distinctly European, with an emphasis on service. Rooms are individually decorated in an upscale country style that’s been recently recast to reflect the color schemes of the nearby sea. Many units have wood-burning fireplaces and Jacuzzis; renovations in 2016 include new double walk-in showers and marble tubs. Suites (in an outbuilding beside the main inn) border on spectacular, each with a distinct color theme and flatscreen television, whirlpool, or similar perks. There are plenty of other amenities such as fresh flowers daily, turndown service, an attractive spa, a lovely outdoor swimming pool, and complimentary afternoon scone service. A handful of cottages, on the Kennebunk River across the road, are cozy and nicely equipped with modern kitchens and bathrooms.
37 Beach Ave., Kennebunk. (1⁄4 mile east of junction of rtes. 9 and 35). www.whitebarninn.com. 207/967-2321. 26 units, 4 cottages. $290–$625 double; $440–$950 suite; $570–$1,160 cottage. Rates include afternoon tea. 2-night minimum weekends; 3-night minimum holiday weekends. Amenities: Restaurant, bar, free bikes; free canoes; concierge; conference rooms; outdoor heated pool; valet parking; room service; free Wi-Fi.
Captain Jefferds Inn This 1804 Federal home is filled with fine antiques, and while it’s a short walk to Dock Square, guests may need persuading to emerge from their rooms once they’ve settled in. Among the best is the Wiscasset, with a roomy sitting area and its own indoor garden. All of the units now have televisions, while the Arundel and Baxter both have whirlpool tubs. The price range reflects the varying room sizes, but even the smallest rooms—like the Katahdin, with views of the town—are comfortable and exceed the usual Maine B&B experience. Bright common rooms on the first floor offer nice lounging spaces. An elaborate breakfast is served before a fire on cool days, or outside on the terrace if good summer weather permits.
5 Pearl St. Kennebunkport. www.captainjefferdsinn.com. 800/839-6844 or 207/967-2311. 16 units. Memorial Day–Oct $249–$439 double; rest of year $189–$352 double. Rates include full breakfast. 2-night minimum summer weekends. Packages available. Dogs in carriage house only, $30 per pet, by advance reservation. Amenities: Wine service; free Wi-Fi.
The Captain Lord Mansion The Captain Lord is one of the most architecturally distinguished inns in Maine, housed in a pale-yellow Federal-style home on a shady lawn above the river. This is the genuine article, with grandfather clocks, Chippendale highboys, and a broad brick fireplace. There’s also a conference room with a sofa and TV. Up the elliptical staircase are the rooms, furnished in splendid antiques and gas fireplaces. Among the best: the Excelsior, a large corner room with a massive four-poster bed, love seat, and a two-person Jacuzzi; the Hesper, with a big stained-glass window in the bathroom; and the Merchant, a spacious first-floor suite that pampers you with a large Jacuzzi and two fireplaces. Four rooms are in the Garden House annex, a gray clapboard home behind the main inn, where guests are served breakfast at a long table in the colonial-style kitchen; this building is less opulent but still well appointed.
6 Pleasant St., Kennebunkport. www.captainlord.com. 800/522-3141 or 207/967-3141. 20 units. $169–$389 double; $299–$599 suite. Rates include full breakfast. 2-night minimum weekends and holidays year-round (some holidays 3-night minimum). No children 11 and under. Amenities: Lounge; conference room; free Wi-Fi.
Hidden Pond It’s not easy to pull off crunchy carefree rusticity across a resort that costs more per night than many urban monthly rents. And make no mistake, Kennebunkport’s Hidden Pond is trying extremely hard. The manicured organic farm in the middle of the wooded cottage campus? The rough-hewn Adirondack chairs surrounding the nightly bonfire? Even the cottages, with their riverstone fireplaces, screen porches, outdoor showers, and (would you believe) siding? It’s an achievement for a place to seem this authentically bucolic and homespun when, in fact, you’re surrounded by luxurious details and perks. The spa, the two heated outdoor pools (one is adults-only), and the vast weekly activity schedule (Pilates and yoga sessions, ice cream socials, watercolor clinics, mixology lessons) are among the reminders that this is a chi-chi resort and not some kind of bougie granola commune. The entrees at Earth, the on-site farm-to-table restaurant, are exquisite, and it’s the nicest barn you’ll ever have dinner in.
354 Goose Rocks Rd., Kennebunkport. www.hiddenpondmaine.com. 207/967-9050. 44 cottage units. $288–$869 1-bedroom; $508–$1629 2-bedroom. 3-night minimum Jul–Aug. Packages available. Amenities: Restaurant; bars; free bikes; beach shuttle; golf cart rentals; kids programs; fitness center; spa; two outdoor heated pools; free Wi-Fi.
Lodge at Turbat’s Creek This simple, clean motel isn’t exactly a “lodge,” but it does sit in a quiet residential neighborhood an easy 5-minute drive from Dock Square. It’s a good value, if dated, in a town that usually gives you sticker shock. The grounds are attractive and endowed with Adirondack chairs; the inn also supplies free mountain bikes for guests who want to cruise to town, and there’s a big, seasonally open heated pool as well. Rooms, on two floors, are standard motel size. They’re decorated in rustic pine furniture and painted cheerfully. The continental breakfast can be taken outside, on the lawn, in good weather.
7 Turbat’s Creek Rd., Kennebunkport. www.lodgeatturbatscreek.com. 207/967-8700. 27 units. $79–$169 double; holidays $89–$189 double. Rates include continental breakfast. Closed Dec–Apr. Pets allowed; inquire before arriving. Amenities: Free use of mountain bikes; heated outdoor pool; free Wi-Fi.
Maine Stay Inn and Cottages Innkeepers Judi and Walter Hauer have maintained a strong sense of history in their 1860 home and its associated cottages. The decor in the main house is traditional, without going overboard (note the exceptional staircase in the main hall); the cottages, arrayed along the property’s perimeter, skew a little more contemporary. Constructed during the 1950s, they’ve been thoroughly updated with small kitchens and fireplaces in all but a few rooms. Towels, umbrellas, chairs, and town parking passes make for easy beachgoing. The full breakfast is very good—it includes spinach frittata and fresh fruit—and can be delivered to most rooms if you like. Stressed? Most of the cottage rooms have Jacuzzis.
34 Maine St., Kennebunkport. www.mainestayinn.com. 207/967-2117. 18 units. $159–$450 double and cottage. Rates include full breakfast. 2-night minimum stay on weekends; 3 nights on major holiday weekends. Amenities: Free Wi-Fi.
The Yachtsman Lodge & Marina River views, proximity to Dock Square, and value are the selling points at this airy spot right off the marina. Nice touches abound, such as down comforters, granite-topped vanities, high ceilings, CD players, and French doors that open onto patios just above the river. While rooms are all standard motel size and on one level, their simple, classical styling is far superior to anything you’ll find at a chain motel. And the service is seriously kicked up a notch.
59 Ocean Ave., Kennebunkport. www.yachtsmanlodge.com. 207/967-2511. 30 units. $109–$329 double. Rates include continental breakfast. 2-night minimum stay on weekends and holidays. Packages available. Amenities: Free bikes and canoes; free Wi-Fi in common areas.
Where to Eat in the Kennebunks
Those looking for a quick lobster have a couple of options in the Kennebunkport area, although the prices tend to be a bit more expensive than at other casual lobster spots farther north along the coast. Nunan’s Lobster Hut ( 207/967-4362), Route 9 north of Kennebunkport at Cape Porpoise (see p. 81), is a classic lobster shack, often crowded with diners and full of atmosphere, which helps make up for disappointments such as potato chips (rather than a baked potato) served with the lobster dinner. No reservations are taken, nor are credit cards accepted; it’s open daily for dinner, starting at 5pm.
The Clam Shack SEAFOOD A Kennebunks institution, found right on the bridge separating the Lower Village from Dock Square, The Clam Shack’s biggest claim to fame may be its lobster roll. Served on a round yeast roll (a break from the traditional split-top hot dog bun), the Clam Shack roll comes with butter, mayo, or both, complementing fresh-off-the-boat, saltwater-boiled lobster. And, crucially, they get the ratio right: plenty of meat with overwhelming the balance with the toasted bun. Light and fresh, the namesake fried clams are worth stopping for too (get ’em by the half-pint, pint, or quart).
2 Western Ave., Kennebunk. www.theclamshack.net. 207/967-3321. Sandwiches $5–$19; seafood baskets $16–$30. Daily 11am–8pm.
Hurricane AMERICAN/SEAFOOD The Kennebunks’ fine-dining old guard, Hurricane hasn’t missed a step in some three decades. Lunch might start with a cup of lobster chowder, small plates of carpaccio or mussels, a lobster Cobb salad, or oysters Rockefeller; the main course could be a Cubano sandwich or a “Maine Surf & Turf” burger (with lobster meat, natch). Local seafood shines among the dinner entrees, which run to such items as a Mediterranean-inflected, lobster-based cioppino, roasted garlic shrimp, or terrific seared scallops with quinoa. Finish with desserts such as vanilla bean crème brûlée, legit Maine blueberry pie, panna cotta, or s’mores.
29 Dock Sq., Kennebunkport. www.hurricanerestaurant.com. 207/967-1111. Reservations recommended. Main courses $22–$50; small plates $10–$17. Daily 11:30am–10:30pm weekends (9:30pm weekdays). Closed Jan–March.
Pier 77 Restaurant REGIONAL Under the steady hand of owners Peter and Kate Morency—and thanks to Peter’s training at the Culinary Institute of America and 20 years in top kitchens in Boston and San Francisco—Pier 77 has become that rare combination of a tourist destination and a locals’ favorite in Cape Porpoise (see p. 81). Lunches skew toward slightly upscale comfort food such as barbecue, spaghetti and meatballs, cheddar burgers, and fried clams. At dinner it’s again about traditional favorites (pasta, steak, and lobster), but there are also some slightly more adventurous dishes: housemade dolmas or a tomato-y seafood stew, for instance. The restaurant has racked up quite a few awards of excellence from Wine Spectator. Worth noting: a casual section of the restaurant known as the Ramp Bar & Grill stays open all day long, even between lunch and dinner service, offering lighter meals.
77 Pier Rd., Cape Porpoise (Kennebunkport). www.pier77restaurant.com. 207/967-8500. Reservations recommended. Main courses lunch $14–$22, dinner $14–$32. Wed–Sun 11:30am–2:30pm and 5–8:30pm (Ramp Bar & Grill 11:30am–9pm).
Packing a picnic in the Kennebunks
Kennebunk Beach is a fine spot for a picnic, with long sands and good waves. There are no shops on the beach, so before you go, pick up supplies at H.B. Provisions ( 207/967-5762), in a grand old country store building near the Western Avenue bridge linking the two Kennebunks: it’s very well stocked with local microbrews, baked goods, and groceries. Plus there’s a deli fixing sandwiches and lobster rolls (those go fast).
Toroso SPANISH TAPAS New to the Kennebunks scene in 2016, Toroso is the hometown effort of chef Shannon Bard, whose Portland restaurant, Zapoteca, has been one of Maine’s best since it opened in 2011. Here, in a dim, mod dining room with an open kitchen, Bard indulges her inner tapas purist, with a menu built around small plates of almost exclusively Spanish specialties. It’s divided into a few entrees, a short selection of cold dishes, and a longer one of hot dishes: Standouts on the latter include oxtail-stuffed piquillo peppers and melt-in-your mouth lamb meatballs with sherry cream. The rotating selections of cheeses and charcuterie are also mouthwatering, deftly selected and exquisitely plated. Tap wines favor oenophiles who’d like to taste their way through a few glasses. Downstairs, the Salud Bistro does take-out soups, salads, sandwiches, and bakery goods.
149 Port Rd., Kennebunk. www.torosorestaurant.com. 207/204-0544. Small plates $8–$15; entrees $12–$29. Mon–Thurs 4:30–10:30pm; Fri–Sat 4:30–11pm; Sun brunch 11am–3pm, dinner 4:30–9pm.
The Wayfarer CONTEMPORARY DINER Over the years this building has housed a long progression of mediocre seaside diners; not until owners Scott and Dee Lewis took over in 2013 was this cozy restaurant itself worth a detour to Cape Porpoise (see p. 81). Grab a table or a seat at the six-stool bar and tuck into Southern-tinged comfort food with contemporary twists. The place is probably most known for breakfasts, and the morning menu includes terrific benedicts (lobster/bacon/spinach, smoked salmon, corned beef hash) as well as biscuits and gravy with housemade sausage. High praise for the thinly sliced home fries. Lunch and dinner are, at turns, pubby and down-home classic: great fish and chips, sturdy burgers, meat loaf, chicken and waffles. Oh, and if the menu isn’t homey and picnicky enough, the Wayfarer is BYOB.
2 Pier Rd., Cape Porpoise (Kennebunkport). www.wayfarercapeporpoise.com. 207/967-8961. Reservations recommended. Breakfast entrees $10–$15; lunch entrees $7–$15; dinner entrees $14–$31. Daily 7am–2pm, 5–9pm.
White Barn Inn REGIONAL/NEW AMERICAN The centerpiece of the White Barn Inn (see p. 73), this classy dining room—carved out of, yes, a barn—attracts gourmands from far and wide. The space is half the fun, with its soaring interior and an eclectic collection of country antiques displayed in a hayloft; window displays are changed with the seasons. Chef Derek Bissonnette took over in 2015 from longtime chef Jonathan Cartwright, and he’s continued his predecessor’s traditions of changing up the menu frequently and privileging local produce, fish, and game: Recent options on the prix-fixe menu included a Guinea hen roulade with foraged mushroom risotto and a lobster fettuccini with carrot, ginger, snow peas, and cognic butter. Fresh, terrific intermezzo courses of fruit soups or sorbets are still a standard. The tasting menu is similarly seasonal, if a bit more exotic (think smoked bone marrow with bacon jam and chimichurri) and paired with selections from a first-in-class wine cellar. Service is astonishingly attentive and knowledgeable, capping the experience. A new, more casual bistro next door is meant to appeal to more casual diners (there’s no dress code, for instance), but it’s hard to beat the original dining room. Still one of Maine’s best meals.
37 Beach Ave., Kennebunk. (1⁄4 mile east of junction of routes 9 and 35). www.whitebarninn.com. 207/967-2321. Reservations recommended. Fixed-price dinner $125; tasting menu $165 per person. Mon–Thurs 6:00–9:30pm; Fri 5:30–9:30pm. Closed 2 weeks in Jan.
Ocean Drive from Dock Square to Walkers Point and beyond is lined with opulent summer homes overlooking surf and rocky shore. You’ll likely recognize the family compound of the former Presidents Bush right out on Walkers Point when you arrive. If it’s not familiar from the time it has spent in the national spotlight, look for crowds with telephoto lenses. If they’re not out, look for a shingle-style secret service booth at the head of a driveway. That’s the place. There’s nothing to do here, though, but park for a minute, snap a picture, and then push on.
Exploring Kennebunk
Inland, just off the turnpike, Kennebunk’s downtown is a dignified, compact commercial center of white clapboard and brick. If you’re a history buff, the Brick Store Museum , 117 Main St. (www.brickstoremuseum.org; 207/985-4802) should be your first stop in town. The museum hosts showings of historical art and artifacts throughout the summer, switching to contemporary art in the off season. It also holds considerable local archives. The museum is housed in a former brick store plus three adjacent buildings, all renovated and re-polished. Adult admission costs $7.50, seniors $6, and kids age 6–16 $3. Half-hour walking tours of the downtown cost $5 per person additional. (They’re a must, if you have time and interest.) The museum is open Tuesday to Friday 10am to 4:30pm, Saturdays from 10am to 1pm.
When en route to or from the coast, be sure to note the extraordinary homes that line Port Road (Route 35). This includes the famously elaborate Wedding Cake House , which you should be able to identify all on your own. Local lore claims that the house was built by a guilt-ridden ship captain who left for sea before his bride could enjoy a proper wedding cake.
Exploring Kennebunkport
Kennebunkport is the summer home of former President George Bush (the elder), whose family has summered here for decades, and it has the tweedy, upper-crust feel that one might expect of the place. This historic village, whose streets were laid out during days of travel by boat and horse, is subject to traffic jams. If the municipal lot off the square is full, go north on North Street a few minutes to the free long-term lot and catch the trolley back into town. Or walk back—it’s a pleasant walk of 10 or 15 minutes from the satellite lot back to Dock Square.
Dock Square has a bustling, mercantile feel to it, with low buildings of mixed vintages and styles. The boutiques in the area are attractive, and many feature creative artworks and crafts. But sometimes it gets a little overcrowded or tacky here. Kennebunkport’s real attraction is found in the surrounding blocks and side streets, where the side streets are lined with one of the nation’s richest assortments of Early American homes. These neighborhoods are especially ripe with examples of Federal-style homes; many have been converted to fine B&Bs (see “Where to Stay,” p. 72).
First Families Kennebunkport Museum MUSEUM Situated on Maine Street at the head of Spring Street, this imposing Greek Revival house was built in 1853 with sturdy Doric columns and remains a Victorian-era dream. Known locally as “White Columns” or “the Nott house,” for its longtime owners, the house remained untouched by the Nott family through the years and was donated to the local historical society with the stipulation that it remain forever unchanged. The period furniture, wallpapers, and rugs will amaze you if you’re into that era. In-house tours run about 40 minutes, or from July through Columbus Day, you can take walking tours departing from here—they’re some of the best on the Maine coast.
8 Maine St., Kennebunkport. www.kennebunkporthistoricalsociety.com. 207/967-2751. $10 adults, children free. Memorial Day–Columbus Day daily 10am–3pm.
St. Anthony’s Franciscan Monastery RELIGIOUS RETREAT/GARDENS Across the road from the White Barn Inn (p. 73), this monastery is a peaceful spot for walks through quiet grounds, chapels, and sculptures. The estate and property were purchased by Lithuanian Franciscans in 1947, who then added the grotto, statuary, and worship spaces. There’s a section of sculpture from the Vatican Pavilion at the 1964/1965 World’s Fair, as well as a chapel, an outdoor shrine, English gardens, statues, and a walking trail with some of the best river views in town. Park in the visitor’s lot and be respectful of the grounds. If you like the calm vibe here, you can even stay overnight (see p. 73).
North side of Beach Ave., less than 1⁄2 mile from Lower Village and the intersection of Rte. 9 and Rte. 35, Kennebunk. Free admission. Daily dawn–dusk.
The Seashore Trolley Museum MUSEUM A short drive north of Kennebunkport is a little local marvel: a surreal scrap yard masquerading as a museum. Quirky and engaging, the museum was founded in 1939 to preserve a disappearing way of life, and today the collection boasts more than 250 trolleys and other transit vehicles, including specimens from Glasgow, Moscow, San Francisco, and Rome. Naturally, there’s also a streetcar named Desire from New Orleans. Dozens of the cars still operate, and the admission charge includes rides on a 2-mile track. Other cars, some of which still contain early-20th-century advertising, are on display outdoors and in vast storage sheds. Head north from Kennebunkport on North St. for 13⁄4 miles; look for signs.
195 Log Cabin Rd., Kennebunkport. www.trolleymuseum.org. 207/967-2800. Admission $10 adults, $7.50 children 6–16, $8 seniors. Memorial Day–Columbus Day daily 10am–5pm; early May and late Oct Sat–Sun 10am–5pm. Closed Nov–Apr.
South Congregational Church CHURCH To me, one of Kennebunkport’s lasting images is the enormous clock face of this whitewashed, meetinghouse-style church (built in 1824), down a lane off Dock Square and close to the tidal river. The huge clock faces are the originals, and are made of wood (which is very unusual); they no longer keep the correct time, but this is still as lovely a church as you’ll find in southern Maine. Inside, the simple spare theme continues but for some stained-glass work and an outsized, impressively columnar pipe organ—though it’s only from 2004.
2 North St. at Temple St., just off Spring St., Kennebunkport. 207/967-2793. Office hours Mon–Fri 9am–2pm, Sun services 10:30am.
Beaches
The coastal area around Kennebunkport is home to several of the state’s best beaches. Finding a parking spot is often difficult, however, and all beaches require a parking permit, which you can get at the town offices or from your hotel. The local trolley offers beach access (see p. 72).
Southward across the river (technically, this is Kennebunk, though it’s much closer to Kennebunkport) are Gooch’s Beach and Kennebunk Beach . Head eastward on Beach Street (from the intersection of routes 9 and 35) past the White Barn Inn (p. 73), and in a few minutes you’ll wind into a handsome colony of eclectic shingled summer homes. The narrow road continues twisting past sandy beaches and rocky headlands; this section is also well worth exploring for its summer mansions and golf course. Hard to believe, but it sometimes gets congested along this beach in summer; avoid the gridlock by exploring on foot or by bike. Very important, you cannot park here if you are not a resident—unless you’ve moseyed down to the police station on Route 1 and bought a temporary parking permit, which few summer visitors know to do. (Some local inns and hotels will give you a temporary day pass.] Again, if you can avoid bringing a car to the beach, do.
You can avoid the hassle by renting a bike and leaving your car at your inn or hotel. A good spot for rentals is Kennebunkport Bicycle Company (34 Arundel Rd.; 207/385-4382), which rents a variety of bikes by the half-day, day, or week. There are also mountain bikes, along with kid trailers and baby seats. (Helmets and locks are free with rentals.) The bike shop is just north of downtown Kennebunkport: turn north on North Road, rather than following Route 9 north. A few hotels and inns in town also rent bikes to guests or even provide free bikes; ask when you book your room.
It’s certainly one of the most attractive approaches to a beach in Maine, and Parson’s Beach itself is lovely and much less crowded than others in the area. Find the beach by heading south on Route 9 from Dock Square in Kennebunkport, through the traffic light; just after you cross a marsh and the Mousam River, hang a left onto Parson’s Beach Road.
You’ll drive down a country lane lined with maples. At the end, there’s limited parking, though you can also park on the north side of the highway if it’s full. This is not the best beach on the southern Maine coast for swimming—it’s rocky at the mouth of the river—but it’s great for lounging and reading. Be on your best behavior here. (Don’t trample the dunes, don’t take stuff from the tide pool, and so on.) You have to cross private land to reach the beach, and signs ominously proclaim that access can be denied at any time if the landowner so chooses.
Goose Rocks Beach , north of Kennebunkport off Route 9 (watch for signs), is a good choice for those who like their crowds light and prefer beaches to beach scenes. You’ll find an enclave of beach homes set amid rustling oaks just off a fine sand beach. Just offshore is a narrow barrier reef that has historically attracted flocks of geese, hence the name.
A Side Trip to Cape Porpoise
Cape Porpoise is a lovely little village, nearly forgotten by time, between Kennebunk and Biddeford. It makes for a superb day trip or bike ride. Beside a number of notable restaurants, such as Pier 77 (p. 76) and The Wayfarer (p. 77), the village has a handful of shops, and even a postage-stamp-size library.
While here, think about packing a picnic and taking it to the rocks where the lobster boats are tied up; watch the fishermen, or train your binoculars on Goat Island and its lighthouse. Drop by Bradbury Brothers Market ( 207/967-3939) for basic staples, or the Cape Porpoise Kitchen ( 207/967-1150; www.capeporpoisekitchen.com) for gourmet-style prepared meals, cheeses, and baked goods.
Not in a picnic mood? Overlooking the sparkling water, the Cape Porpoise Lobster Co. (15 Pier Rd., 800/967-4268 or 207/967-4268) has some outdoor dining; most everything is served on Styrofoam plates, so beware of rogue winds that strive to dump your meal on your lap. It’s open 9am to 7pm daily, from Memorial Day to late fall; no reservations are taken, but it does accept credit cards.
