Side Trips from the Maine Coast
Once ensconced on the coast of Maine, you’d be easily forgiven if you didn’t wish to do anything more strenuous than turn the pages of a book while lying in a hammock. But if you’re a back-roads adventurer, an outdoors enthusiast, or a connoisseur of gourmet meals, there are some additional interesting places to be found just a little bit farther afield.
Portsmouth, New Hampshire, for instance, is well worth a quick detour across the bridge from Kittery for its coffee shops, inns, boutiques, and pleasing snugness. Next, just inland from the midcoast section of Maine, huge Baxter State Park—featuring the lofty and impressive peak of Mount Katahdin—is one of Maine’s finest attractions, and a newly designated national monument is poised to become Maine’s next great outdoor playground. Finally, coastal New Brunswick, an hour or less from Eastport, is worth seeing for its pretty seaside villages, islands, and high tides.
I have described each of these three side trips below, going in order—as does this book—from south to north.
Portsmouth, New Hampshire
Portsmouth is a civilized little seaside city of bridges, brick, and seagulls, and quite a gem. Filled with elegant architecture that’s more intimate than intimidating, this bonsai-size city projects a strong, proud sense of its heritage without being overly precious. Part of the city’s appeal is its variety: Upscale coffee shops and art galleries stand alongside old-fashioned barbershops and tattoo parlors. Despite a steady influx of money in recent years, the town retains an earthiness that serves as a tangy vinegar for more saccharine coastal spots. Portsmouth’s humble waterfront must actually be sought out; when found, it’s rather understated.
This city’s history runs deep, a fact that is evident on even a quick walk through town. For the past 3 centuries, Portsmouth has been the hub of the coastal Maine/New Hampshire region’s maritime trade. In the 1600s, Strawbery Banke (it wasn’t called Portsmouth until 1653) was a major center for the export of wood and dried fish to Europe. Later, in the 19th century, it prospered as a center of regional trade. Just across the Piscataqua River in Maine (so important a connection that there are four bridges from Portsmouth to that state), the Portsmouth Naval Shipyard—founded way back in 1800—evolved into a prominent base for the building, outfitting, and repairing of U.S. Navy submarines. Today, Portsmouth’s maritime tradition continues with a lively trade in bulk goods; look for the scrap metal and minerals stockpiled along the shores of the river on Market Street. The city’s de facto symbol is the tugboat, one or two of which are almost always tied up in or near the waterfront’s picturesque “tugboat alley.”
Visitors to Portsmouth will discover a surprising number of experiences in such a small space, including good shopping in the boutiques that now occupy much of the historic district; good eating at many small restaurants and bakeries; and plenty of history to explore among the historic homes and museums set on almost every block of Portsmouth.
arriving From I-95, exits 3 through 7 reach Portsmouth. The most direct downtown access is via Market Street (exit 7), which is the last New Hampshire exit, just before crossing the big bridge to Maine.
By train, it’s trickier. Amtrak (www.amtrak.com; 
800/872-7245;) operates four to five trains daily from Boston’s North Station to downtown Dover, New Hampshire ($15–$30 one way; the trip takes about 11⁄2 hours). From Dover, take the no. 2 COAST bus (www.coastbus.org; 603/743-5777) from Dover station to the center of downtown Portsmouth, a 45-minute trip that costs just $1.75 ($1 for seniors, free for kids 5 and under)—but be warned, the bus doesn’t run on Sundays.
Bus service, for once, may be a better option. Greyhound (www.greyhound.com; 800/231-2222) runs a couple of buses daily, and C&J Trailways (www.ridecj.com; 800/258-7111) almost hourly buses from Boston’s South Station to Portsmouth, plus frequent daily trips from Boston’s Logan Airport. Greyhound stops at the main bus stop near Market Square, while C&J stops at a modern but distant bus station about 5 miles south at the former Pease air base (call a taxi or rent a car). Trips cost $10–$20 one way, with some student discounts. Note: C&J requests that passengers don’t talk on cellphones while on their buses.
A one-way Greyhound trip from New York City’s Port Authority bus station to downtown Portsmouth costs from $30 to $80, depending on how far in advance you book it, and takes about 7 to 71⁄2 hours.
Visitor Information The Greater Portsmouth Chamber of Commerce, 500 Market Street (www.portcity.org; 603/436-3988), has an information center on outer Market Street as you approach the downtown off I-95’s exit 7. From Memorial Day through Columbus Day, it’s open Monday through Wednesday 8:30am to 5pm; Thursday and Friday 8:30am to 7pm; and normally on weekends 10am to 5pm. The rest of the year it’s usually open weekdays only, from 8:30am to 5pm. During the summer, a second staffed booth opens in Market Square—look for the hut right in front of the Breaking New Grounds coffee shop. Hours are irregular; the info is good.
getting around Most of Portsmouth can be easily reconnoitered on foot, so you only need to park once. But mind the rules and signs; parking can be tight in and around the historic district in summer, and officers will ticket. The city’s municipal parking garage nearly always has space and costs $1.25 per hour; it’s on Hanover Street, between Market and Fleet streets. Most metered spaces are also $1.25 per hour; some are $1.75 per hour. The Strawbery Banke museum (see p. 259) also provides limited parking for visitors.
A trackless “trolley” ( 603/743-5777) loops through central Portsmouth every half-hour to an hour on weekdays (less frequently on Saturday and not at all on Sunday) from about 7am to 9pm. It costs $1.50 per person to ride and covers a few blocks around Market Square and before leaving downtown for the rest of its route. A schedule is posted online at www.coastbus.org/trolley.html.
Downtown accommodations are preferable, as everything is within walking distance, but prices tend to be high. The Courtyard Portsmouth, 1000 Market St. (www.marriot.com; 603/436-2121), is big and modern, with business amenities and comfortable beds right off I-95 about 2 or 3 minutes’ drive from downtown. It books up fast on summer weekends or when conventions come to town, so specify and confirm your room type in advance. Since 2006, there’s also a Hilton Garden Inn (www.hgiportsmouth.com; 603/431-1499) in a very central downtown location with a nice indoor pool.
For more downscale, budget-priced accommodations, chain and family-owned hotels and motels cluster at the edges of town along I-95 and around the big traffic circle on the Route 1 bypass. I can’t vouch for all of these; it’s buyer beware.
Inn at Strawbery Banke 
This historic little inn is tucked away in an 1814 home on Court Street, an ideal base for exploring Portsmouth: Strawbery Banke is just a block away, and Market Square (the center of the city’s cafe action) is just 2 blocks. The friendly innkeepers have done a nice job of taking a cozy antique home and making it comfortable for guests. Rooms are tiny and simply furnished, yet brightened up by stenciling, pencil-poster beds, wooden shutters, and beautifully preserved pine floors; one has a private bathroom down the hall. Two sitting rooms are stocked with TVs, phones (there are none in the rooms), and lots and lots of books, and full breakfast is served in a dining room each morning.
314 Court St., Portsmouth. www.innatstrawberybanke.com. 
800/428-3933 or 603/436-7242. 7 units (1 with detached bathroom). Mar–Oct $160–$170 double; Nov–Feb $100–$115 double. Rates include full breakfast. 2-night minimum stay Aug and Oct weekends. Children 10 and older welcome. Amenities: Free Wi-Fi.
Martin Hill Inn Bed & Breakfast This B&B in a residential neighborhood is just a short walk from downtown. The inn consists of two period buildings: a main house (built circa 1815) and a second guesthouse built 35 years later. All rooms have king or queen-size beds, writing tables, and sofas or sitting areas, and are variously appointed with distinguished wallpapers, porcelains, antiques, love seats, four-poster or brass beds, and the like. New owners took over in 2013 and have done some updates, including unearthing antique painted floorboards in the Dashing Wave room. More good stuff: A stone path from the inn leads to a small, beautiful water garden, and the included full breakfast is a highlight. It might consist of orange thyme pancakes, “sunshine” eggs, ginger waffles, and stratas with ingredients pulled from the garden during late summer.
404 Islington St., Portsmouth. www.martinhill.com. 603/436-2287. 7 units. May–Oct $160–$240 double; rest of year $135–$180 double. Holiday rates higher. 2-night minimum stay summer and holiday weekends. Rates include full breakfast. No children 11 and under. Packages available. Amenities: Free Wi-Fi.
If you’re driving Route 1 or I-95 south of Portsmouth, heading to or from Massachusetts, make a detour to Seabrook for some of the best lobsters in New Hampshire—and the amazing spectacle of two (gently) competing shacks right across the road from each other.
Brown’s (www.brownslobsterpound.com; 603/474-3331) got here first, and it’s a bit more like the typically unadorned shack you’d find in, say, Downeast Maine. (Its patio also frames a view of Seabrook’s infamous nuclear power plant—and, yes, it’s active.) Markey’s ( 603/474-2851; www.markeyslobsterpool.com) opened later and more closely resembles a small-town diner. The pounds frame both sides of state Route 286, easily reached from Portsmouth or Boston via the exits to Seabrook off both U.S. Route 1 and the New Hampshire Turnpike (I-95; drive east a few miles). From Hampton Beach, head south on coastal Route 1A a few miles and turn inland (west) on Route 286.
Sheraton Harborside Portsmouth This five-story, in-town brick hotel is nicely located on the way into town—the attractions of downtown Portsmouth are virtually at your doorstep (Strawbery Banke is about a 10-minute walk, and waterfront bars are a block or two away). Another plus: There’s plenty of parking both underground and across the street. The modern building, inspired by the low brick buildings of the city, wraps around a circular courtyard; Some rooms and suites have views of the working harbor. The décor’s a bit bland, but it’s a well-maintained and -managed property, popular with business travelers as well as leisure travelers looking for the amenities of a larger hotel.
250 Market St., Portsmouth. www.sheratonportsmouth.com. 888/627-7138 or 603/431-2300. 180 units. $216–$467 double and suite; off-season discounts available. Some rooms accommodate dogs. Amenities: Restaurant; fitness center; executive-level rooms; room service; spa; free Wi-Fi.
Three Chimneys Inn 
About 20 minutes northwest of Portsmouth at the edge of the university town of Durham, this is a wonderful retreat. The main section of the inn dates to 1649, but later additions and renovations have given it more of a regal Georgian feel. All of the units are above average in size, and have been lushly decorated with four-poster or canopied beds, mahogany armoires, and cool patterned carpets. Most rooms sport chunky brick fireplaces, with either gas or Duraflame logs; these and the exposed wooden beams give the place a rustic historicity. Recent renovations uncovered a 100-year-old signature of a former owner on a previously hidden mantle; they also installed new bathroom fixtures in many rooms, painted the exterior paint job, and more—the place feels fresh. Five rooms on the ground-floor level beneath the restored barn have private entrances, Jacuzzis, and gas fireplaces; these tend to be a bit more cavelike than the other units, but luxurious and romantic. This is a popular place for weddings on summer weekends, and is always booked up long in advance of University of New Hampshire events such as graduation, football games, and homecoming weekend. Book well ahead at those times.
17 Newmarket Rd., Durham. www.threechimneysinn.com. 888/399-9777 or 603/868-7800. 23 units. $119–$239 double. Rates include full breakfast. 2-night minimum stay on weekends Sept–Oct. Children 6 and older welcome. Some rooms accommodate pets ($50 fee). Packages available. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; free Wi-Fi.
Wentworth by the Sea The 2003 reopening of this historic resort was a major event; it’s now one of the top resorts in New England. The photogenic grand hotel, which opened on New Castle Island in 1874 but later shut down, was refurbished by the owners of the Samoset (p. 149) and is operated jointly with Marriott in professional, luxurious fashion. As befits a grand old hotel, the main building’s rooms vary in size, but most are spacious with good views of ocean or harbor; particularly interesting are the suites occupying the three turrets. Some rooms have gas-powered fireplaces or private balconies, while all have luxury bath amenities, new bathroom fixtures, and lovely detailing and furnishings. (Families might appreciate that many contain two queen-size beds.) Downhill, a set of luxury suites beside the marina are truly outstanding, with water views, modern kitchens, and marble bathrooms with Jacuzzis. A full-service spa offers a range of treatments and body wraps.
588 Wentworth Rd., New Castle. www.wentworth.com. 866/384-0709 or 603/422-7322. 161 units. July–mid-Oct $460–$649 double, $499–$1,499 suite; substantial off-season discounts. Packages available. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; golf course privileges; indoor and outdoor pools; spa; free Wi-Fi.
Where to Eat in Portsmouth
Along with the dining options listed below, the Wentworth by the Sea resort (see p. 255) a few miles south of the city offers two choices: the Salt Kitchen & Bar and the more casual (and seasonal) Latitudes bar and grill. The fare at Salt is top-rate, served beneath a remarkable (and original) frescoed dome; entrees might include grilled swordfish, lobster with filet mignon, seared yellowfin tuna, a clambake, a lobster pie, or something more Continental. There is a moderate dress code: Men are asked to wear a collared shirt. The Latitudes grill has a simpler menu, but offers something the main inn can’t—an outdoor patio of tables, softly lit at night, with lovely views overlooking the water.
Black Trumpet Bistro BISTRO/WINE BAR When the former owners of this wine bar and restaurant space decided to sell it in early 2007, their own executive chef Evan Mallett jumped at the chance to buy it. Now he cooks exotically spiced comfort food in an intimate, two-story space carved out of a former warehouse. The menu is subtly influenced by Spain and Latin America: you partake of starters that might include quahog chowder, tomatoey octopus with chorizo, bacalao salad, local mussels and fries, or a Moroccan-spiced beet soup. Among the entrees, the mountain paella is a recent fave—incorporating chicken mole meatballs, rabbit, snails, and chorizo—as is a local trout served with frisée, celeriac, and a fried egg. The wine list is obviously strong. If the dining room’s full, just sit in the bar.
29 Ceres St., Portsmouth. www.blacktrumpetbistro.com. 603/431-0887. Entrees $19–$32. Nightly 5–9:30pm. Reservations recommended.
Blue Mermaid Island Grill GLOBAL/ECLECTIC The Blue Mermaid is a Portsmouth favorite for its good food, good value, and refusal to take itself too seriously. It’s a short stroll from Market Square, in a historic area called the Hill, and is not pretentious—locals congregate here, Tom Waits tunes play in the background, and the service is casual but professional. The menu is adventurous in a low-key global way, leaning ever so slightly toward Mexico and the Caribbean—you might try a tortilla pizza or a salmon club sandwich for lunch, or a dinner of short ribs in guava-soy sauce, served with corn bread; Bimini-style grilled chicken with bananas and walnuts in bourbon sauce, sided with a sweet-potato hash; or beef medallions spiced up with horseradish cream and chipotle peppers. For fun, make a dinner out of small-plate offerings such as wontons, Jamaican beef patties, and the seafood-coconut wrap. They also cook seafood on a wood-fired grill; libations include local draft brews plus a full menu of coolers, mojitos, Goombay smashes, and margaritas.
409 The Hill (at Hanover and High sts.), Portsmouth. www.bluemermaid.com. 603/427-2583. Entrees $10–$13 lunch, $19–$24 dinner. Mon–Sat 11:30am–9pm; Sun 10am–9pm. Reservations recommended for parties of 6 or more.
Dolphin Striker NEW ENGLAND Housed in a historic brick warehouse in Portsmouth’s most charming area, the Dolphin Striker tavern eschews glitz for classic oceanside-brasserie comfort. The kitchen serves traditional seafood dishes, with both New England and Continental flair—broiled haddock, mussels in Guinness, seafood fra diavolo, paella—and the execution and plating are top-notch. Seafood loathers can find refuge in a sturdy burger on a ciabatta roll, steak frites, beef Wellington, and the like. The main dining room here has a rustic, public house atmosphere with wide pine-board floors and wooden furniture; downstairs is a comfortable pub known as the Spring Hill Tavern, with quite good acoustic acts. After 10pm, the Striker shelves the heavy fare, but the kitchen stays open with a lighter “tavern” menu.
15 Bow St., Portsmouth. www.dolphinstriker.com. 603/431-5222. Entrees $14–$34 dinner. Mon–Sat 11am–1am; Sun 8am–1am. Reservations recommended.
Jumpin’ Jay’s Fish Café SEAFOOD One of Portsmouth’s best eateries, Jay’s is a hopping destination, and it’s especially good for those travelers who want to eat seafood that has not been cooked in a deep-fryer. A sleek and spare dining room is dotted with splashes of color, with an open kitchen and polished-steel bar; locals seem to have fun eating here, and the place attracts a younger, hipper clientele than most other spots in town. The catch of the day is posted on blackboards; you pick your fish, then pair it with a sauce such as spicy orange-sesame glaze, lobster velouté, citrusy mustard sauce, or simple olive oil and herbs. Pasta dishes are also an option—you can add scallops, mussels, or even chicken.
150 Congress St., Portsmouth. www.jumpinjays.com. 603/766-3474. Entrees $27–$34. Mon–Thurs 5–9:30pm (closes 9pm and closed Mon in winter); Fri–Sat 5–10pm; Sun 5–9pm. Reservations recommended.
Portsmouth has one of the best cafe scenes in northern New England, nearly comparable to Cambridge’s or Boston’s. There are numerous places in the compact downtown alone where you can get a decent-to-very-good cup of coffee and better-than-average baked goods; new coffeehouses open all the time. There’s a Starbucks (of course), but two of my favorite spots to quaff a coffee drink or pot of tea with a book are Breaking New Grounds, 14 Market Square (www.bngcoffee.com; 603/436-9555), with outstanding espresso shakes, good tables for chatting out on the square, and late hours; and Portsmouth Book & Bar, 40 Pleasant Street (www.bookandbar.com; 603/429-9197), which hits the trifecta: good coffee drinks, an outstanding selection of draft beers (mostly from Maine and New Hampshire), and a really nicely curated selection of new and used books. Comfy couches, and the sandwiches aren’t bad either.
If you want a bit more of a bite to go with your coffee, Portsmouth’s got that covered, too. Two places leap to mind. The tie-dyed Friendly Toast, 121 Congress Street (www.thefriendlytoast.com; 603/430-2154), serves a variety of eggs and other breakfast dishes all day long, plus heartier items such as burgers. The setting’s eclectic, with vinyl booths and all kinds of nutty kitsch on the walls. There’s a brunch rate on weekends—always a good sign. The funky little Ceres Bakery, 51 Penhallow St. (www.ceresbakery.com; 603/436-6518), on a side street off the main square, has a handful of tiny interior tables; grab a sandwich, cookie, or slice of cake to go, and walk to the waterfront rose gardens nearby.
The Press Room PUB Locals flock here more for convivial atmosphere and easy-on-the-budget prices than for creative cuisine. An in-town favorite since 1976, the Press Room boasts that it was the first place in the area to serve Guinness beer, so it’s appropriate that the place has a rustic, vaguely Gaelic charm. On cool days, a fire burns in the woodstove, and drinkers flex their elbows throwing darts in an atmosphere of brick walls, pine floors, and heavy wooden beams. Choose from a bar menu of inexpensive selections, such as burgers, fish and chips, and tacos. The jazz here is justifiably popular among locals (see p. 261).
77 Daniel St., Portsmouth. www.pressroomnh.com. 603/431-5186. Sandwiches and Entrees $9–$13. Mon 5–11pm; Tues–Thurs & Sun 4–11pm, Fri–Sat noon–11pm. Bar open later. Reservations not accepted.
Packing a picnic in Portsmouth
Portsmouth’s Prescott Park is about as pretty a spot as you could expect to find for an alfresco bite, with a lawn that’s a great spot for splaying out and catching some rays. Get provisions nearby at the simple, aptly named Portsmouth Provisions (
603/436-5104), 2 blocks away at 148 State Street. It’s open from early in the morning until almost midnight, daily. There’s a selection of beers, an attached sandwich counter where locals eat lunch on the fly, and plenty of snacks. Or just hit the vendors in the park for a hot dog, ice cream, or a lemonade. For those with a sweet tooth, a summertime ice-cream shop has also opened its doors across the street in the Strawbery Banke complex.
Exploring Portsmouth
Portsmouth’s 18th-century prosperity is evident in the Georgian-style homes that dot the city. Strawbery Banke (see p. 259), which occupies the core of the historic area, is well worth visiting. If you don’t have the budget, time, or inclination to spend half a day at Strawbery Banke, a walking tour takes you past many other significant homes, some of which are maintained by various historical or colonial societies and are open to the public. A map of the historic Portsmouth Harbor Trail is available free at information centers.
Tired from touring? Take a break at Prescott Park 
, between Strawbery Banke and the water. It’s one of the best municipal parks in New England. The water views, lemonade vendors, benches, grass, lovely gardens, and full card of festivals make it worth a visit. There’s a full calendar of events at the park festival website, www.prescottpark.org. Be amazed.
John Paul Jones House HISTORIC HOUSE Scottish Revolutionary War hero John Paul (“I have not yet begun to fight”) Jones is believed to have lived in this 1758 home during the war while overseeing construction of his sloop, the Ranger, which was likely the first ship to sail under the U.S. flag (a model is on display). He took a ragtag crew of locals to England and gave them no end of bother. The house is immaculately restored and maintained by the Portsmouth Historical Society; costumed guides lead tours.
43 Middle St., Portsmouth. www.portsmouthhistory.org. 603/436-8420. $6 adults, children under 14 free. Late May–Oct daily 11am–5pm. Closed Nov–late May.
Moffatt-Ladd House HISTORIC HOUSE Easy to miss as you ascend the hill into town, the Moffatt-Ladd’s on the right as you begin to enter the commercial district but well before you penetrate it. It was built in 1763 by a successful merchant with a view right down onto his docks and operations. The gardens are as well known as the house’s woodwork and architecture. The same family kept it for nearly 2 centuries, so most of the furnishings and artwork here are absolutely original—and that’s rare.
154 Market St., Portsmouth. www.moffattladd.org. 603/436-8221. House and gardens $7 adults, $2.50 children 11 and under; gardens only $2 per person. Mon–Sat 11am–5pm; Sun 1–5pm. Tours mid-June–mid-Oct; last tour at 4:30pm. Closed Nov–May.
Strawbery Banke OPEN-AIR MUSEUM In 1958, the city of Portsmouth was finalizing plans to raze this neighborhood (which was settled in 1653) to make way for urban renewal. A group of local citizens resisted the move, and they prevailed, establishing an outdoor history museum that’s become one of the largest and best in New England. Here you get a true feel for the late 17th-century colonial period. Today the attraction consists of 10 acres and more than 40 historic buildings, some restored with period furnishings, situated around a big open lawn (which was once an inlet); it all has a settled, picturesque quality. One ticket gains you entry to about half the buildings—the other half, you can only view from outside. Coopers, boat builders, and potters demonstrate colonial crafts, and the Drisco House is two exhibits of Americana within one house: 1790s Portsmouth and 1950s Portsmouth. While the Banke employs staffers to assume the character of historical residents, the emphasis is more on the buildings, architecture, and history than on the costumed reenactors—as it should be.
Visitor’s center at 14 Hancock St., at Marcy St., Portsmouth. www.strawberybanke.org. 603/433-1100. Summer $19.50 adults, $10 children 5–17, $48 family; Nov rates lower. May–Oct daily 10am–5pm; Nov Sat–Sun 10am–2pm with required 90-min. guided tour. Closed Dec–April except for special events.
Warner House HISTORIC HOUSE This house, built in 1716, was the governor’s mansion during the mid–18th century, when Portsmouth was the state capital. (Who knew?) After a period as a private home, it was opened to the public in the 1930s. This stately brick structure with graceful Georgian architectural elements is a favorite among architectural historians for its wall murals—said to be the oldest murals still in place in the U.S.—early wall marbleizing, and original white pine paneling.
150 Daniel St., Portsmouth. www.warnerhouse.org. 603/436-8420. $7 adults, $6 seniors, $3 children 7–12, children 6 and under free. June–Oct Wed–Mon 11am–4pm. Closed Nov–May.
Wentworth-Gardner House HISTORIC HOUSE Arguably the most handsome mansion in the Seacoast region, this is considered one of the nation’s best examples of Georgian architecture. The 1760 home features many period elements, including pronounced quoins (blocks on the building’s corners), pedimented window caps, plank sheathing (to make the home appear as if made of masonry), an elaborate doorway with Corinthian pilasters, a broken scroll, and a paneled door topped with a pineapple, the symbol of hospitality. Perhaps most memorable is its scale—though a grand home of the Colonial era, it’s modest in scope; some architectural circles today may not consider it much more than a pool house. Admission also gets you in to the Tobias Lear House, another Georgian mini-mansion on the same block.
50 Mechanic St., Portsmouth. www.wentworthlear.org. 603/436-4406. $6 adults, $3 children 6–14, children 5 and under free. June–Oct Thurs–Mon 11am–4pm. Closed Nov–May. From rose gardens on Marcy St. across from Strawbery Banke, walk south 1 block, turn left toward bridge, make a right before crossing bridge; house is down the block on your right.
Portsmouth is especially attractive when seen from the water. A small fleet of tour boats ties up at Portsmouth, taking scenic tours of the Piscataqua River and the historic Isle of Shoals throughout the summer and fall.
The long-established Isles of Shoals Steamship Co. (www.islesofshoals.com; 603/431-5500) sails from Barker Wharf on Market Street on a variety of tours aboard the 90-foot, three-deck MV Thomas Laighton (a modern replica of a late-19th-century steamship). Most popular are the excursions to the Isle of Shoals, where passengers can disembark and wander about Star Island, a dramatic, rocky landmass that’s part of an island cluster far out in the offshore swells. Reservations are strongly encouraged. Other popular trips include a sunset lighthouse cruise. Fares range from $18 to $35 per adult, depending on the length of the cruise; dinner cruises cost extra. Parking is an additional charge, as well.
Portsmouth Harbor Cruises 
(www.portsmouthharbor.com; 800/776-0915 or 603/436-8084) specializes in seasonal tours of the historic Piscataqua River aboard the Heritage, a 60-foot, 49-passenger cruise ship with plenty of open deck space. It leaves from the Ceres Street docks, beside the tugboats. Cruise past five old forts or enjoy the picturesque tidal estuary of inland Great Bay, a scenic trip upriver from Portsmouth. Trips run daily in summer, weekend only in spring and fall; reservations are suggested. Fares are $18 to $25 for adults, $16 to $22 for seniors, and $11 to $18 for children ages 2 to 12.
Portsmouth Shopping
Portsmouth’s historic district is home to dozens of boutiques offering unique items. The fine contemporary N.W. Barrett Gallery, 53 Market Street (www.nwbarrett.com; 603/431-4262), features the work of area craftspeople, with a classy selection of ceramic sculptures, glassware, lustrous woodworking, and handmade jewelry. The Robert Lincoln Levy Gallery, operated by the New Hampshire Art Association, 136 State Street (www.nhartassociation.org; 603/431-4230), frequently changes exhibits and is a good destination for some quality fine art produced by New Hampshire artists. Nahcotta, 110 Congress Street ( 603/433-1705), is a gallery purveying high-end paintings and sculptures, many of which are quietly edgy and entertaining.
The women’s consignment shop Wear House, 74 Congress Street (www.wearhouseportsmouth.com; 603/373-8465) has a notably hip, eclectic mix of apparel, jewelry, and accessories. Also, a whole wall full of designer shoes. Some deals here. Hazel Boutique, 7 Commercial Alley (www.hazelportsmouth.com; 603/766-1780) has urban-bohemian women’s fashions (great dresses especially), handbags, jewelry, and more from some 30 designers in a neat little exposed-brick alleyway nook off Market Street.
Off Piste, 37 Congress Street ( 603/319-6910), is a gift shop with a sense of humor and an indie ethos. If you need a Top Gun t-shirt or a Versace coloring book or a hardcover collection of Instagrammed cat photos, you’ve come to the right place. Macro Polo, 89 Market Street ( 603/436-8338), is the original novelty shop in town (besides sporting arguably the best name of any shop in New Hampshire). It’s a good place to find Bernie Sanders action figures, mildly lewd magnets, bandages that look like bacon, and the like.
Most travelers tend to visit just Strawbery Banke, do a little shopping at the downtown boutiques, grab a bite, and hustle onward to Maine. To get a fuller sense of historic Portsmouth, though, take the time to stroll a bit off the beaten track. The so-called “South End” neighborhood around the Wentworth-Gardner House (p. 259) and Prescott Park is a great area to snoop around in. You’ll find lanes too narrow for SUVs to fit into, twisting roads, fish and lobster shacks, and wooden-frame houses of all shapes and sizes. It’s a great taste of the early 19th century, and definitely off the beaten tourist track.
Finally, I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention Bull Moose Music , 82–86 Congress Street (www.bullmoose.com; 603/422-9525). It’s a Maine chain, but the Portsmouth location has one of its widest selections. There’s nothing glamorous about the cavelike space, but it is the place in northern New England to pick up vintage vinyl records and surf new and used books, graphic novels, CDs, DVDs, and games (video, tabletop, and other). I can’t count the hours I’ve whiled away here, but I’d never call them wasted.
Portsmouth After Dark
Performing Arts
The Music Hall ARTS VENUE This historic theater dates from 1878 and was restored to its former glory by a local arts group. A variety of shows are staged here, from film festivals and comedy revues to The Nutcracker and concerts by visiting symphonies and pop artists (David Crosby, Pat Metheny). Call or check the website for a current calendar. 28 Chestnut St., Portsmouth. www.themusichall.org. 603/436-2400.
Bars & Clubs
The Press Room BAR A popular local bar and restaurant (see p. 257), the Press Room also offers casual entertainment almost every night, either upstairs or down. It’s best known locally for its live jazz; the club brings in quality performers from Boston and beyond. You might also hear beat poetry or blues. 77 Daniel St., Portsmouth. www.pressroomnh.com. 603/431-5186.
Spring Hill Tavern BAR Quality acoustic noodling, live jazz, classical guitar, and low-key rock is offered most evenings of the week here. It’s located right beneath the popular Dolphin Striker seafood restaurant (see p. 256). 15 Bow St. 603/431-5222.
There are two versions of the Maine Woods. There’s the grand and unbroken forest, threaded with tumbling rivers, that unspools endlessly in the popular perception—and then there’s the reality. It’s tempting to see this region as the last outpost of big wilderness in the East, with thousands of acres of unbroken forest, miles of free-running streams, and more azure lakes than you can shake a canoe paddle at. A look at a road map seems to confirm this, with only a few roads shown here and there amid terrain pocked with lakes. Undeveloped, however, does not mean untouched. The reality is that this forestland is a massive plantation, largely owned and managed by paper and timber companies large and small. An extensive network of small timber roads feeds off major arteries and opens the region to extensive cutting. In the early 1980s, New Yorker writer John McPhee noted that much of northern Maine “looks like an old and badly tanned pelt. The hair is coming out in tufts.” Forest management practices are somewhat improved today; clear-cutting is diminished, although technological advances in logging have encouraged more rapid timber harvesting on the part of some companies (either to “flip” lands for a quick return or to pay down debts incurred as the forest products industry has waned). Still, timber and paper are no longer the boom industries they once were (Maine’s paper mills are shuttering at an impressive rate), and northern Maine has spent the last decade slowly embracing the potential of its recreation economy.
While the North Woods may not be a vast, howling wilderness, the region still has fabulously remote enclaves where moose and loon predominate, and where the turf hasn’t changed all that much since Thoreau paddled through in the mid–19th century and found it all “moosey and mossy.” So long as you don’t arrive expecting utter wilderness (on the scale of, say, the remote Rockies), you’re unlikely to be disappointed.
One piece of public land all Mainers seem to get behind is Baxter State Park. Owned and managed by the state, it’s one of Maine’s crown jewels, even more spectacular in some ways than Acadia National Park. This 200,000-plus-acre park in the remote north-central part of the state is unlike most state parks you may be accustomed to in New England—don’t look for fancy bathhouses or groomed picnic areas. When you enter Baxter State Park, you’re entering the closest thing to wilderness that the East has left.
Former Maine governor and philanthropist Percival Baxter single-handedly created the park, using his inheritance and investment profits to buy the property and donate it to the state in 1930. Baxter stipulated that it remain “forever wild.” Caretakers have done a good job of fulfilling his wishes: You won’t find paved roads, RVs, or hookups at the campgrounds. (Size restrictions keep all RVs out.) Even cellphones are banned. You will find rugged backcountry and remote lakes. You’ll also find Mount Katahdin, a mile-high granite monolith that rises above the sparkling lakes and boreal forests.
To the north and west of Baxter State Park lie several million acres of forestland owned by timber companies and managed for timber production. These concerns also control public recreation. If you drive on a logging road far enough, expect to run into a gate eventually; you’ll be asked to pay a fee for day use or overnight camping on their lands.
To the east lies Katahdin Woods and Waters National Monument, established in 2016, which adds another 80,000-plus acres to the North Woods wildland recreation complex. Access to the monument is still on the hairy side—you’ll want a high-clearance vehicle—but the National Park Service will continue to add infrastructure and interpretive elements (signage, campsite improvements, maybe front-country boardwalks) in the coming years. In the meantime, there’s excellent hiking, paddling, and mountain biking to be had on the existing trail system (and something to be said for getting there before the crowds do).
Don’t try to tour these woodlands by car. Industrial forestland is boring at best, downright depressing at its overcut worst, and even a drive along the tote road bisecting Baxter is only sporadically scenic. A better strategy is to select one pond or river for camping or fishing, then spend a couple of days getting to know the small area around it. Like a Hollywood set, buffer strips of trees have been left along the pond shores, streams, and rivers in this region, so it can feel like you’re getting away from it all as you paddle along. Even better: lace up your hiking boots and head into the depths of Baxter or the new monument, where the woods are still as wild as Maine comes.
The towns of Bangor (pronounced Bayn-gore, please—not Bang-er), Orono, and Old Town lie along the western banks of the Penobscot River—not far inland from Ellsworth and Belfast on the coast—and serve as gateways to the North Woods. Once a thriving lumber port, Bangor is Maine’s third-largest city (after Portland and Lewiston), the last major urban outpost with a full-fledged mall. It’s a good destination for history buffs curious about the early North Woods economy. Orono and Old Town, two smaller towns to the north, offer an afternoon’s diversion on rainy days.
Essentials
ARRIVING Bangor is located just off the Maine Turnpike. Take I-395 east, exit at Main Street (Route 1A), and follow signs for downtown. Bangor International Airport (BGR) (www.flybangor.com; 207/992-4600) mostly connects via Boston to other major cities, but there are four carriers and direct routes to New York, Philadelphia, Chicago, Washington D.C., and multiple Florida locations. It’s sometimes as cheap or cheaper to fly into Bangor as Portland, and it could be a time-saver if your destination is Acadia or the Downeast coast. Concord Coach (www.concordcoachlines.com; 800/639-3317) and Greyhound (www.greyhound.com; 800/231-2222) offer bus service to Bangor from Portland and Boston—from Boston, it’s a 41⁄2- to 51⁄2-hour ride costing $30 to $45 one-way.
VISITOR INFORMATION In summer, you can stop by the Bangor Visitors Information Office near the Paul Bunyan statue at the convention center on Main Street. The Bangor Region Chamber of Commerce is open year-round at 519 Main Street (www.bangorregion.com; 207/947-0307), from 8am to 5pm Monday through Friday. The Greater Bangor Convention & Visitors Bureau at 33 Harlow Street (www.bangorcvb.org; 800/916-6673 or 207/947-5205) maintains listings of local accommodations, businesses, and dining options.
The debate over Maine’s North Woods
Much of Maine’s outdoor recreation takes place on private lands—and that’s especially true in the North Woods, 9 million acres once owned by only a handful of timber companies. Increasingly, this uninhabited land is at the heart of a simmering debate over land-use policies.
Hunters, fishermen, canoeists, rafters, bird-watchers, and hikers have been accustomed to having the run of much of this forest, with the tacit permission of most timber companies, many of which were founded here and have long historic ties to Maine’s woodland communities. But a lot has changed in recent years. One of the biggest factors has been the increasing value of lakefront property, which has made this land far more valuable as second-home property than as standing timber. Several parcels of formerly open land have been sold off and closed to visitors.
At the same time, corporate turnovers in the paper industry have led to increased debt loads and greater pressure from shareholders to wring more profit from the woods; this, in turn, has led to accelerated timber harvesting and big land sales. New owners are often far-off investment groups with no particular ties to the land or interest in local ecology. Focused only on a speedy return on investment, such investors may opt to cut with abandon, then liquidate the property to a developer.
Environmentalists maintain this scenario is a disaster in the making. They believe that if the state continues on its present course, the forest can’t continue to provide timber jobs or be a viable recreational destination. Many think there’s a reckless amount of tree-cutting and herbicide spraying, while the timber companies insisting they’re practicing responsible forestry.
Several conservation proposals in recent years have ranged from modest steps—like clear-cuttting restrictions, tax incentives to promote open access for recreation, and requiring timber companies to practice sustainable forestry—to sweeping ideas such as turning the entire region into a 2.6-million-acre national park. That initiative morphed into the establishment of the (much smaller) Katahdin Woods and Waters National Monument, designated by President Obama in 2016.
In the 1990s, several statewide referendums calling for a clear-cutting ban and major timber-harvesting regulations were defeated, but the land-use issue still hasn’t sorted itself out. Big timber companies have negotiated exceptions to regulations in deals with the state that were less than transparent. The debate over the future of this forest isn’t as volatile here as it is in the Pacific Northwest, but still, few residents around here lack opinions on the matter.
Baxter State Park provides maps and information from its park headquarters at 64 Balsam Drive in Millinocket (www.baxterstateparkauthority.com; 207/723-5140). Note that no pets are allowed into the park, and all trash you generate must be brought back out. Same rules apply at the monument. Find maps and info at the National Park Service welcome centers in Millinocket, at 20 Penobscot Avenue (www.nps.gov/kaww; 207/456-6001), and, in summer only, at the Patten Lumbermen’s Museum, at 61 Shin Pond Road in Patten (www.lumbermensmuseum.org; 207/528-2650).
For information on canoeing and camping outside of Baxter State Park or Katahdin Woods and Waters National Monument, contact North Maine Woods, Inc. (www.northmainewoods.org; 207/435-6213), the consortium of paper companies, other landowners, and concerned individuals that controls and manages recreational access to private parcels of the Maine woods.
For help in finding cottages, rentals, and tour outfitters in the region, contact the Katahdin Area Chamber of Commerce, 1029 Central St., Millinocket (www.katahdinmaine.com; 207/723-4443), open weekdays 9am to 1pm.
Where to Stay & Eat in the North Maine Woods
where to stay In Bangor
Bangor has plenty of guest rooms, many along charmless strips near the airport and the mall. If you’re not choosy or if you’re arriving late at night, these are fine. Be aware that even these can fill up during the peak summer season, so reservations are advised. Try the Comfort Inn, 10 Bangor Mall Rd. (www.comfortinn.com; 877/424-6423 or 207/990-0888) or the Fairfield Inn by Marriott, 300 Odlin Rd. (www.fairfieldinn.com; 888/236-2427 or 207/990-0001).
Other options: Connected to Bangor’s airport is a Four Points by Sheraton, 308 Godfrey Blvd. (www.sheraton.com; 800/368-7764 or 207/947-6721); near the Bangor Mall and other chain stores is the Country Inn at the Mall, 936 Stillwater Ave. (www.countryinnatthemall.net; 800/244-3961 or 207/941-0200). Downtown by the Civic Center, there’s one slightly offbeat option: the Hollywood Slots Hotel and Raceway, 500 Main St. (www.hollywoodcasinobangor.com; 877/779-7771). Yes, they have slot machines, plus about 150 pretty nice units, covered parking, an airport shuttle, and—why?—an on-site laundry service.
Where to Eat in Bangor
Bangor’s downtown has enjoyed a renaissance of late, and along the historic few blocks of Main Street, along Kenduskeag Stream, you’ll find good burritos and noodle shops, along with a few solid sit-down dining options. Try Evenrood’s (www.evenroods.com; 207/941-8800), at 25 Broad St. in the curved Merchant’s Bank Building, serving classic steak and seafood entrées in a clubby dining room designed around (and in) an impressive old vault. Around the corner, at 56 Main St., Nocturnem Draft Haus ( 207/907-4380; www.nocturnemdrafthaus.com) is arguably the state’s best beer bar. As impressive as the rotating draft list is, the small menu also stands out, with comfort-y specialties like housemade spinach pie, a great cheese and charcuterie plate, soft pretzels served beer cheese, and really terrific smoked hot wings.
Where to Stay & eat in the Katahdin area
Lodging and dining are both pretty bare-bones around the Katahdin region, where a sprinkle of B&Bs, lodges, hunting camps, and (often pretty run-down) roadside motels make up the bulk of your lodging options. On the upside, more and more folks around greater Millinocket are availing themselves of Airbnb and other online rental platforms, where you can often find super affordable rentals and cabins. Camping is really the classic way to experience the region, but if you must have a roof, try the Baxter Park Inn, 935 Central Street (www.baxterparkinn.com; 866/633-9777), which has breakfast and an indoor pool, or the Rivers Edge Motel, closer to the highway at 2166 Medway Road in Medway ( 207/746-5162), a clean if unremarkable motor lodge where the friendly owner also sells pizzas out of the front office.
On Grand Lake Road, which leads to both parks’ north entrances, Matagamon Wilderness Campground and Cabins (www.matagamon.com; 207/446-4635) has spacious riverside campsites, six rustic cabins, a small family restaurant. and a camp store (it’s a clutch beer and/or ice cream stop when leaving the park). Shin Pond Village (www.shinpond.com; 207/528-2900) is a similar camp-lodge-store-restaurant complex on Route 11, between Patten and the north entrances.
The only place in the Katahdin region that can fairly be described as don’t-miss dining as the Appalachian Trail Café in Millinocket, at 210 Penobscot Ave. ( 207/723-6720), which has less to do with the hearty breakfasts and lunches than the vibe—chatty locals mingling with jubilant thru hikers just off the Appalachian Trail (their names, in Sharpie, adorn the café’s walls and ceiling). This is a great place to pick up tips on the day’s hiking/fishing/exploring itinerary.
New England Outdoor Center One of the region’s top outfitters (see p. 273), NEOC also offers a wide range of cabins and lodges. Some have a pioneer feel, with bunk beds and wooodstoves, original to the 1960s cabin village this place evolved out of; others multi-bedroom retreats of brand new construction, with heated floors, flatscreen TVs, modern furniture and fixtures, and comfy queen beds. Some have premium Katahdin views. The NEOC’s cheery, rustic-mod River Drivers Restaurant is open daily (you can prepay for dinners as part of your lodging rate) and serves great pub food along with big-feed dinner entrees like rib-eye steaks and crab-stuffed haddock roulade. The place wouldn’t hold up in Portland, but it’s maybe the best dinner you can get in the North Woods. The lounge in front of the big fieldstone fireplace is a pretty unbeatable spot to unwind with a beer or a cocktail, especially in winter.
30 Twin Pines Rd., Millinocket. www.neoc.com. 800/634-7238 or 207/723-5438. 21 units. $245–$641 cabins/lodges (sleep 4–14). 2-night minimum peak summer and winter weekends. Some cabins accommodate pets ($20/night fee). Packages available. Look for signs 9 miles northwest of Millinocket, on road to Baxter State Park. Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; free kayaks and canoes; firepits; rental snowmobiles; beach, volleyball and basketball courts; free Wi-Fi.
Mt. Chase Lodge Mike and Lindsay Downing took over this classic sporting lodge in 2015 (Lindsay’s parents ran it for decades before), and they’ve set about turning it into the most pleasant basecamp in these parts. The main lodge and its eight rooms share a definite hunting camp vibe (indeed, hunters make up a lot of the clientele), with mounted animal heads on the wall, quilted bedspreads, plank wood walls and stone accents and furnishings made out of birch stumps. Rooms are cozy and share hallway bathrooms, except for #8, which has its own bathroom. In the Maine hunting lodge style—and because meals are included—lodge rates are per person. The five cabins (plus a yurt) sleep 3 to 8 people and have the same rustic vibe. All have full bathrooms; some have full kitchens. The Downings’ deep knowledge of the area is a huge selling point—they’ve been recreating at the adjacent national monument since before anybody even proposed a national monument. And they do a terrific job in the dining room, serving up family-style breakfasts and dinners. Dinners are open to non-guests by reservation and might include pan-seared salmon with blueberry chutney or roast pork loin with apples, onions and fennel, along with some of Mike’s beautiful (and tasty) sourdough breads.
1517 Shin Pond Rd., Mount Chase. www.mtchaselodge.com. 207/528-2183. 13 units. $119–$159 cabins; $59 per person (single occupancy), $69 per person (double occupancy) lodge. Rates include full breakfast and dinner. 2-night minimum stay in cabins. Cabins accommodate pets ($10/night fee). Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; free kayaks; free Wi-Fi in common areas.
where to camp in the katahdin region
Baxter State Park has eight campgrounds accessible by car, and two more backcountry camping areas that must be walked into; most are open from mid-May until mid-October. Don’t count on finding a spot if you show up without reservations in the summer; the park starts processing requests on a first-come, first-served basis the first week in January, and dozens of die-hard campers traditionally spend a cold night outside headquarters to secure the best spots. Call well in advance (as in, during the previous year) for the forms to mail in. The cost of camping inside the park ranges from $15 to $32 per site (a night in a bunkhouse is $12 per person per night), while entire cabins can be rented for from $57 to $135. Reservations can be made by mail, in person at the headquarters in Millinocket (see p. 266), or (sometimes) by phone, though only less than 14 days from arrival. Don’t call them about any other dates. And remember: they don’t accept credit cards inside the park, only when reserving by mail or online ahead of time.
North Maine Woods, Inc. (see p. 265) maintains a small network of primitive campsites on its 2-million-acre holdings. While you may have to drive through massive clear-cuts to reach them, some are positioned on secluded coves or picturesque points. A map showing logging-road access and campsite locations is available for a small fee plus postage from the North Maine Woods headquarters. Daily camping fees are minimal, though you must also pay an access fee to the lands.
There are a few drive-in campsites (notice I’m not saying campgrounds) at the Katahdin Woods and Waters National Monument, but they are still underdeveloped and not for the faint of heart—little more than fire pits and, at one site, a pit latrine. They’re free, though, first-come-first-served and noted on the park map.
Exploring Bangor, Orono & Old Town
In its heyday as a lumber port, Bangor shipped millions of board feet cut from the woods to the north and floated down the Penobscot River. While much of the town burned in 1911 and has since suffered from ill-considered urban-renewal schemes, visitors can still discern a robust history just below the surface.
While this is a major transportation hub, and the commercial center for much of eastern and northern Maine, Bangor isn’t much of a tourist destination, nor is it as cosmopolitan as Portland. The downtown has enjoyed a renaissance in recent years, however, and now hosts things like a juice bar, a hip beer bar, a mess of new restaurants, some new condos, decent shopping, a great wine shop, and more. A new waterfront concert venue brings national touring acts all summer long, which has given Bangor tourism s shot in the arm. The same riverside hosts events like June’s Tap Into Summer Beer Festival or the multi-stage American Folk Festival in August, which brings in more diverse and impressive world music acts than seems likely for this little north woods city.
Despite the city’s rich history and the distinguished architecture of the commercial district, Bangor is probably best known as home to horror novelist and one-man Maine industry Stephen King. King’s sprawling Victorian home seems a fitting place for the Maine native author; it’s got an Addams Family–like creepiness, which is only enhanced by the wrought-iron fence with bats on it. His home isn’t open to the public, but it’s worth a drive by. To find the house, take the Union Street exit off I-95, head toward town for 6 blocks, then turn right on West Broadway. You’ll quickly figure out which one it is, trust me.
University of Maine Museum of Art MUSEUM Although UMaine’s campus is up the road in Orono, its art collection is displayed here in downtown Bangor. The permanent collection includes works by heavy hitters like Andy Warhol, Roy Lichtenstein, Edward Hopper, and Pablo Picasso, plus Maine artists like Andrew Wyeth and Marsden Hartley. Maine contemporary artists get a lot of play in the temporary exhibitions: You might catch a photography show, high-concept installation art, or punky graphic illustration. Pretty nice second life for a shuttered old department store.
40 Harlow St., Bangor. http://umma.umaine.edu. 207/561-3350. Admission free. Open Tues–Sat 10am–5pm.
Cole Land Transportation Museum MUSEUM Vintage-car and early transportation buffs will enjoy a detour to this museum, which features old automobiles lined up in a warehouse-size display space, along with quirky machinery such as snow rollers, cement mixers, power shovels, and tractors. Especially well represented are early trucks, appropriate given its connection with Cole Express, a Maine trucking company founded in 1917.
405 Perry Rd., Bangor. (Off exit 45B of I-95, near intersection with I-395.) www.colemuseum.org. 207/990-3600. $7 adults, $5 seniors, ages 18 and under free. Daily May–mid-Nov 9am–5pm.
One of Bangor’s claims to tourist fame is that in 1977 an addled German tourist, Erwin Kreuz, accidentally disembarked here during a transatlantic refueling stop. He spent a few days wandering the city, believing the whole time he was in San Francisco. This would be an urban legend except for the fact that it’s true. It’s a wonder that a statue hasn’t been erected of this man.
University of Maine UNIVERSITY Spread out on a riverside plain in the town of Orono, the main campus of the University of Maine (founded in 1868) features a pleasing mix of historic and contemporary buildings. The campus was originally designed by noted landscape architect Frederick Law Olmsted, but its early look has been obscured by later additions. On campus in the Collins Center for the Arts, the modern and spacious Hudson Museum (www.umaine.edu/hudsonmuseum; 207/581-1901) features exhibits on anthropology and native culture. While it’s full of crafts and artwork from native cultures around the world, it’s especially strong in North American displays—there’s even a wigwam on view. It’s open Monday to Friday from 9am to 4pm and Saturday from 11am to 4pm. Admission is free.
Orono, 8 miles N of Bangor on Rte. 2. www.umaine.edu.
Old Town Canoe Visitor Center and Factory Outlet Store STORE A few minutes north of Orono on Route 178 is the riverside community of Old Town, famous for the classic canoes made by hand here since the turn of the 20th century. The company’s now owned by Johnson Outdoors of Wisconsin, but it’s a point of Maine pride that the original factory is still here, cranking out top-quality watercraft. Next door to the headquarters, this is more store than visitor center, but there are some deals—plus a big pool where you can try out a few models.
100 Gilman Falls Ave., Old Town. www.oldtowncanoefactoryoutlet.com. 207/827-1530. Tues–Sat 9am–5pm, Sun 10am–3pm; closed Sun and Mon in fall and winter.
Exploring Baxter State Park, Katahdin Woods and Waters National Monument & Environs
Most hikers coming to Baxter State Park are intent on ascending Mount Katahdin, Maine’s highest peak. An ascent up this rugged, glacially scoured mountain is a trip you’ll not soon forget. The raw drama and grandeur of the rocky, windswept summit is equal to anything you’ll find in the White Mountains. Dozens of other peaks are well worth scaling as well, and simply walking through the deep woods here is a sublime experience in stretches; you will hear no chainsaws.
There are a few dozen black bears in Baxter State Park, and while they are not out to eat you, they do get ornery when disturbed, and they do get hungry at night. The park has published these tips to help you keep a safe distance:
Put all food and anything else with an odor (toothpaste, repellent, soap, deodorant, and perfume) in a sealed bag or container and keep it in the car.
If you’re camping in the backcountry without a car, put all your food, dinner leftovers, and other “smellable” things in a bag and hang it between two trees (far from your tent) so that a bear can’t reach it easily. Never keep any food in your tent.
Take all your trash with you from the campsite when you leave.
Do not feed bears or any other animals in the park. They may bite that hand that feeds them! And don’t toss any food on the trail.
Baxter State Park lies 85 miles north of Bangor. Take I-95 to Medway (exit 244), then head west 11 miles on Route 11/157 to the mill town of Millinocket, the last major stop for supplies. Go through town and follow signs to Baxter State Park. There’s also another, less-used entrance in the park’s northeast corner. Follow I-95 to exit 259, then take Route 11 north through Patten and west on Route 159, which becomes Grand Lake Road, into the park. Speed limit in the park is 20 mph; motorcycles and ATVs are not allowed here. Park entry is free to Maine residents; visitors driving cars with out-of-state license plates are charged a per-day fee of $14 per car. This fee is charged only once per stay if you’re coming to camp; otherwise, you need to repay each day you enter the park. Tip: A season pass costs $39 per car for out-of-staters. If you’ll be in the park more than 3 days during any given year, buy the pass instead.
To reach nearby Katahdin Woods and Waters National Monument, leave I-95 at Sherman (exit 264), 20 miles north of Medway. The south entrance, which leads to the scenic driving loop and some dayhiking trailheads, is 13 miles west along Staceyville Road; the north entrance is along the same Grand Lake Road that accesses Baxter’s north entrance (see above). As of this writing, a fee infrastructure is not yet in place at the new national monument, nor have entrance booths been erected, so the monument is a fee-free area.
Sports & Outdoor Activities
Backpacking Baxter maintains about 180 miles of backcountry hiking trails and more than 25 backcountry campsites, some of them accessible only by canoe. Reservations are required for backcountry camping; many of the best spots fill up quickly in early January when reservations open for a calendar year (see “Where to Stay & Eat in the Katahdin area,” p. 266).
Canoeing The state’s premier canoe trip is the Allagash River , starting west of Baxter State Park and running northward for nearly 100 miles, finishing at the village of Allagash. The Allagash Wilderness Waterway (www.maine.gov/allagashwildernesswaterway; 207/941-4014) was the first state-designated wild and scenic river in the country, protected from development since 1970. Most travelers spend between 7 and 10 days making the trip from Chamberlain Lake to Allagash. The trip begins on a chain of lakes involving light portaging. At Churchill Dam, a stretch of Class I–II white water runs for about 9 miles, then it’s back to lakes and a mix of flatwater and mild rapids. Toward the end, there’s a longish portage (about 450 ft.) around picturesque Allagash Falls before finishing up above the village of Allagash.
About 80 simple campsites are scattered along the route; most have outhouses, fire rings, and picnic tables. The camping fee is $12 per night, $6 for Maine residents (no fee for kids under 15 and seniors 70 and older).
The East Branch of the Penobscot , along the eastern edge of the Katahdin Woods and Waters National Monument, is another of Maine’s classic river trips—and a fine shorter alternative to the Allagash. It’s a 3-day paddle (26 river miles) from Grand Lake Matagamon near the north entrance to where the river meets the monument’s south entrance ford at Whetstone Falls. The first day involves multiple short portages over wild-tumbling rapids and falls; after that, the river smooths out for a mellow 2-day float and chance to spot moose, deer, eagles, and maybe even an elusive lynx. Great fishing for native brook trout, too. About a dozen riverside campsites (free, first-come-first-serve) allow you to break up the trip in a bunch of different ways. Nearby Bowlin Camps (www.bowlincamps.com; 207/267-0884) offers guided trips and shuttles.
Hiking With 180 miles of maintained backcountry trails and 46 peaks (including 18 that are higher than 3,000 feet), Baxter State Park is a serious destination for serious hikers. The most imposing peak is 5,267-foot Mount Katahdin 
, the northern terminus of the Appalachian Trail (see “Climbing Katahdin,” above). Katahdin draws the biggest crowds, but the park also maintains numerous other trails where you’ll find more solitude and wildlife than on the main peak. One pleasant day hike is to the summit of South Turner Mountain, which offers wonderful views across to Mount Katahdin and blueberries for picking (in late summer). This trail departs from Roaring Brook Campground, and requires about 3 to 4 hours for a round trip. To the north, more good hikes begin at the South Branch Pond Campground. My advice? Talk to rangers and buy a trail map at park headquarters first.
The Appalachian Trail and More |
En route to Mount Katahdin, the Appalachian Trail winds through the “100-Mile Wilderness,” a remote stretch where the trail crosses few roads and passes no settlements. It’s the quiet habitat of loons and moose. Trail descriptions are available from the Appalachian Trail Conservancy, 799 Washington Street, Harpers Ferry, West Virginia (www.appalachiantrail.org; 304/535-6331). Where the Appalachian Trail ends at Katahdin, the International Appalachian Trail begins. It’s a still-in-progress footback that winds up to the Gaspe country in Quebec, but 35 of its best miles pass through Katahdin Woods and Waters National Monument, with rather nicely maintained lean-tos available to backpackers on a first-come-first-served basis. Detailed information is available at monument welcome centers (see p. 275) and at www.internationalatmaine.org.
Allow at least 8 hours for the round trip ascent up Mount Katahdin, and abandon your plans if the weather takes a turn for the worse while you’re en route. The most popular route departs from Roaring Brook Campground. In fact, it’s popular enough that it’s often closed to day hikers—when the parking lot fills, hikers are shunted off to other trails. You ascend first to dramatic Chimney Pond, which is set like a jewel in a glacial cirque, then continue upward toward Katahdin’s summit via one of two trails. (The Saddle Trail is the most forgiving, the Cathedral Trail the most dramatic.) From here, descent begins along the aptly named Knife Edge, a narrow, rocky spine between Baxter Peak and Pamola Peak. Do not take this trail if you are afraid of heights: In spots, the trail narrows to 2 or 3 feet with a drop of hundreds of feet on either side. Obviously, it’s also not the spot to be if high winds move in or thunderstorms are threatening. From the Knife Edge, the trail follows a long and gentle ridge back down to Roaring Brook.
Shorter day hikes are the order of the day at the national monument. Two of the best spur off of the scenic Katahdin Loop Road in the southwest corner of the monument. A 4-mile out-and-back hike up the little granite hump of Barnard Mountain shows off some pretty exposed ledges as you ascend the switchbacks. The 9-mile out-and-back hike to the 1,964-foot summit of Deasey Mountain begins an easy ford off the Loop Road, climbs steeply past a massive erratic boulder and through some old-growth woods, then culminates with terrific views of Katahdin’s eastern face.
Mountain biking Head for the north entrance of the national monument to reach a 5-mile stretch of the International Appalachian Trail called Old Telos Tote Road, ideal for mountain bikes. The route follows the west bank of the East Branch of the Penobscot River, passing five different stretches of cascading whitewater. Highlights include a gnarly 20-foot rock formation called Haskell Rock and the dramatic Grand Pitch, a roaring 30-foot falls that stretches across the river. In winter, the trail is groomed for cross-country skiing. You’ll have to bring your own ride, alas, as there’s no place yet to rent mountain bikes nearby—as people start showing up to the new monument, I expect some entrepreneur in Patten will get on top of this.
WhiteWater Rafting One unique way to view Mount Katahdin is by rafting the west branch of the Penobscot River. Flowing along the park’s southern border, this wild river has some of the most technically challenging white water in the East. At least a dozen rafting companies take trips on the Penobscot, with prices around $90 to $115 per person, including a lunch. The trade group Raft Maine (www.raftmaine.com; 800/723-8633) can connect you to one of its member outfitters. Among the better-run outfitters in the area is New England Outdoor Center (www.neoc.com; 800/766-7238), on the river southeast of Millinocket. An anchor of the region’s outdoor-recreation ecosystem, NEOC offers trips and experiences of every kind in all seasons—guided fishing, moose-spotting, and photography tours, rafting trips, even its own groomed ski trails come winter—and has a good restaurant and a range of lodgings (see p. 266).
Maritime Canada
Once you’ve reached the northernmost limits of coastal Maine, it’s just a skip onward to the pleasures of maritime Canada. If you’re not hurting for vacation time, it’s worth packing your passport to spend a couple of nights in genteel, historic St. Andrews or the windswept world apart that is Grand Manan Island. Whereas Campobello Island (see p. 247) is essentially an afternoon jaunt from adjacent Lubec, the New Brunswick side of the Passamaquoddy region rewards deeper exploration, and it’s easy to reach by crossing the bridge over the St. Croix River at Calais, Maine, about a 40-minute drive north from Eastport (p. 246).
The heart of the Passamaquoddy region is the briny Bay of Fundy, which is rich with plankton, and therefore rich with whales. Some 15 types of whales can be spotted in the bay, including finback, minke, humpback, the infrequent orca, and the endangered right whale. Whale-watching expeditions sail throughout the summer from Grand Manan, St. Andrews, and St. George. Any visitor information center can point you in the right direction.
St. Stephen
Directly across the river from Calais, Maine, St. Stephen is the gateway to Canada for many travelers arriving from the United States. The two towns have a symbiotic relationship—it’s a local call across the international border from one town to the other, fire engines from one country will respond to fires in the other, and during an annual summer parade, bands and floats have sometimes marched right through Customs. Though downtown St. Stephen is hardly a destination itself, it is a handy pit stop—and the smell of chocolate (see below) does sneakily attempt to entice you into a longer stay. The Provincial Visitor Information Centre ( 506/466-7390), located at Milltown Boulevard and King Street, is open daily from 9am to 8pm June through early October.
Time Has Come Today |
Remember that New Brunswick is in the Atlantic Standard Time (AST) zone, also known as ADT (Atlantic Daylight Time) during the summer, and that it’s 1 hour ahead of Maine, Boston, and New York time (Eastern Standard Time). Let’s just call it New Brunswick time, for now. That means if it’s 9am in Maine, when you cross the border, it’s 10:01am in New Brunswick when you get across. And if you step right back across, it’s 9:02am. You get the idea: reset your watch—or at least make a mental note—when crossing the border, and again when coming back. I have expressed all opening and closings times for New Brunswick attractions and restaurants in ADT; in other words, in New Brunswick time.
St. Stephen is a town in transition. The lumber industry and wood trade that were responsible for those handsome brick-and-stone buildings that line the main street have mostly dried up. The town now depends largely on the pulp industry, the large Ganong chocolate factory, and pass-through tourists like yourself for its economic mainstays. (For the cocoa bean–obsessed, there’s also a small Chocolate Festival in summer.) As a regional commercial center, it has a gritty feel to it, though not much in the way of stylish shopping or restaurants.
You can learn about the region’s history with a brief stop at the Charlotte County Museum, 443 Milltown Blvd. ( 506/466-3295), open June through August (and by appointment only in September); it’s quite close to the tourist office described above. There’s no charge for admission.
The Chocolate Museum MUSEUM Chocolate is so integral to this town’s history, of course there’s a museum to the cacao bean. Here you can view an 11-minute video about the history of local chocolates. Displays and exhibits explain 19th-century chocolate boxes, and there are interactive multimedia displays about the making of candy and games for young children (such as “Guess the Centers”). One highlight is watching the expert hand-dippers make chocolates the old-fashioned way; samples, of course, are available afterward. Want more? Ganong’s Chocolatier, the company’s candy shop, is located in the storefront adjacent to the museum. (Don’t miss the budget bags of factory seconds.) There’s also a Heritage Chocolate Walk offered, which combines a factory tour with a walk through the downtown’s historic areas. Plan to spend about an hour here altogether.
73 Milltown Blvd. www.chocolatemuseum.ca. 506/466-7848. Admission C$10 (US$7.50) adults, C$8.50 (US$6.50) students and seniors, free for children under 5, C$30 (US$22.50) families. Downtown tour plus museum C$15 (US$11) adults, C$13.50 (US$10) seniors, free for children 5 and under, C$45 (US$34) families. July–Aug Mon–Sat 9am–6pm, Sun 10am–5pm; always at least Mon–Sat 10am–5pm in shoulder seasons and winter.
The Sweet Truth About St. Stephen’s Sweet Tooth |
St. Stephen’s claim to fame is that it’s purported to be the home of the chocolate bar—the first place where somebody thought to wrap chocolate pieces in foil and sell them individually. In 1910, they say. At least that’s according to local lore. Chocolate is big around here—not as big as in Hershey, Pennsylvania, but still a big part of the local psyche and economy. The Ganong brothers began selling chocolate from their general store here in 1873, and from that an empire was built, employing some 700 people by the 1930s. Ganong was also the first place to package chocolates in heart-shaped boxes for Valentine’s Day, and still holds 30% of the Canadian market for heart-box chocolates. The modern new plant on the outskirts of town isn’t open to the public, but there’s a museum in one of the company’s early factories, a large brick structure on the main street.
St. Andrews
The lovely village of St. Andrews—or St. Andrews By-the-Sea, as the chamber of commerce persists in calling it—traces its roots back to the days of the Loyalists. After the American Revolution, New Englanders who had supported the British were made to feel unwelcome. They decamped first to Castine, Maine, which they presumed was safely on British soil. But it wasn’t; the St. Croix River was later determined to be the border between Canada and the United States. Forced to uproot again, the Loyalists dismantled their new homes, loaded the pieces aboard ships, and rebuilt them on the welcoming peninsula of St. Andrews, a short sail away. Some of these remarkably resilient saltbox houses still stand in town today.
In the late 19th century, this community emerged as a fashionable summer resort, as many of Canada’s affluent and well-connected built homes and gathered annually here for social activities. The Tudor-style Algonquin Hotel (now known as The Algonquin Resort) was built on a low rise overlooking the town in 1889, and quickly became the town’s social hub and defining landmark.
St. Andrews is beautifully sited at the tip of a long, wedge-shaped peninsula. Thanks to its off-the-beaten-track location, the village hasn’t been spoiled much by modern development, and walking the wide, shady streets—especially those around the Algonquin—invokes a more genteel era. Some 250 homes around the village are more than a century old. A number of appealing boutiques and shops are spread along Water Street, which stretches for some distance along the town’s shoreline. It’s easy to grab a boat tour from the waterfront, and on Thursday mornings in summer, don’t miss the weekly farmer’s market on the waterfront. I definitely recommend this town if you’re seeking a tame, easy tourism dip into New Brunswick.
Essentials
arriving After crossing the bridge into Canada from Calais, Maine, take Route 1 east to Route 127 and head southward 16 km (29 miles).
Visitor Information St. Andrews’ seasonal Welcome Centre ( 506/529-3556) is located at 24 Reed Avenue, on your left as you enter the village. It’s open daily from 8am to 8pm in July and August, from 9am to 5pm in May, June, and from September until it closes in early October. The rest of the year, visit or contact the Chamber of Commerce (www.standrewsbythesea.ca; 506/529-3555) at 252 Water St., St. Andrews.
Those traveling on a budget might head for the Picket Fence Motel, 102 Reed Avenue (www.picketfencenb.com; 506/529-8985). This trim and tidy property is near the handsome Algonquin golf course (see p. 281) and within walking distance of St. Andrews’ village center. Rooms cost C$80 to C$100 (US$60–US$75) double. For something slightly more upscale yet unlikely to break your bank, consider the Europa Inn (see restaurant listing p. 277). Small, basic rooms with Wi-Fi and breakfast go for C$139 to C$149 double (US$104–US$112); some suites and apartment have kitchenettes.
The Algonquin Resort The Algonquin dates from 1889. The original structure was destroyed by fire in 1914, but the surviving annexes were rebuilt in Tudor style; in 1993 an addition was built across the road, linked by a gatehouse-inspired bridge, and in 2012, the whole place got a C$30 million renovation. The red-tile–roofed resort commands one’s attention through its sheer size and aristocratic bearing (not to mention the kilt-wearing, bagpipe-playing staff). The inn is several long blocks, affording panoramic bay views from a second-floor roof garden and many rooms. The rooms have been refreshed, and are comfortable and tasteful. In addition to the outstanding seaside golf course (see p. 281), there’s a full spa. Note that the hotel markets itself to bus tours and conferences; if one of those is here when you’re year, you might feel a bit overwhelmed.
184 Adolphus St., St. Andrews. www.fairmont.com. 855/529-8693 or 506/529-8823. 234 units. C$244–C$329 (US$183–US$247) double; C$429–C$479 (US$322–US$360) suite; lower rates in winter and spring. Rates include continental breakfast. Valet parking. Small cats and dogs C$35 (US$26) per night. Amenities: 2 restaurants; 2 bars; babysitting; bike rentals; children’s programs; concierge; game room; golf course; health club; Jacuzzi; outdoor heated pool; sauna; spa; 2 tennis courts; free Wi-Fi.
Kingsbrae Arms Relais & Châteaux Kingsbrae Arms, part of the Relais & Châteaux network, is a five-star inn informed by an upscale European feel. The inn occupies an 1897 manor house built by prosperous jade merchants in 1897, and features a heated pool amid rose gardens at the foot of a lawn. Immediately next door are the 11-hectare (27-acre) Kingsbrae Horticultural Gardens; some rooms have wonderful views of the gardens, while others offer a panorama of the bay. Guests will feel pampered, with amenities including high-thread-count sheets, plush robes, and a guest-services suite stocked with snacks and refreshments. Some rooms have Jacuzzis; all have gas fireplaces. Guests can also enjoy a five-course meal in the dining room during peak season. (This dining room is not open to the public.) Entrees on a given visit might include Fundy salmon, PEI mussels, roasted guinea hen, goat cheese in a hazelnut glacé, New Zealand rack of lamb, or Alberta steaks.
219 King St.. St. Andrews. www.kingsbrae.com. 506/529-1897. 8 units. C$153–C$339 (US$115–US$254) double; C$419–C$639 (US$315–US$480) suites. 2-night minimum; 3-night minimum July–Aug weekends. Closed Nov–Apr. Pets allowed with advance permission. Amenities: Children’s programs; library; free Wi-Fi.
It Costs How Much? |
A word to the wise: New Brunswick’s combined provincial and federal sales tax of 15% can prompt some sticker shock, particularly when ringing up your lodging totals. Some restaurants may roll this “harmonized sales tax” right into their menu pricing, so check out the fine print.
Where to Eat in St. Andrews
Europa Inn CONTINENTAL In an intriguing cedar shake building that once housed a movie theater and dance hall, Bavarian husband-and-wife transplants Markus and Simone Ritter whip up great French-, Swiss- and German-accented Continental cuisine for a dining room with just a dozen or so tables. Starters include smoked salmon with rösti and capers; a house specialty of seared scallops in Mornay sauce, baked with cheese; French onion soup; and escargot. Main courses run to several versions of schnitzel (grilled pork or veal steak), each with distinct fillings, toppings, and sauces; beef stroganoff; lobster thermidor; rack of lamb; haddock in lemon butter or champagne sauce; steak in béarnaise sauce; and tiger shrimp in mango-curry sauce. All are prepared with skill and restraint. Finish with chocolate mousse, homemade almond parfait, or one of several homemade ice creams or sorbets. The wine list is also surprisingly strong given that this is such a small, out-of-the-way town. All in all, consider this restaurant a gem—a should-get-there spot if you’re at all in the area.
48 King St., St. Andrews. www.europainn.com. 506/529-3818. Entrees C$23–C$28 (US$17–US$21). Daily 5–9pm. Reservations recommended.
The Gables SEAFOOD/PUB FARE This informal eatery is located in a trim home with prominent gables fronting Water Street. You enter down a narrow alley; sky and water views suddenly break through a soaring window from a spacious outside deck. It’s all about maritime decor and plastic-porch–furniture informality, and the food matches that—this is not a foodie spot. Lunch and dinner options include burgers, steaks, and seafood items such as breaded haddock, daily catches, and sometimes a lobster “clubhouse”—a chopped lobster salad with cheese, cucumber, lettuce, and tomato mixed in. There’s a kids’ menu, too, and margaritas and sangria are available by the pitcher for adults. The view definitely pulls rank on the menu, but if you like simple family restaurants, it’s an option.
143 Water St., St. Andrews. 506/529-3440. Sandwiches and burgers C$8–C$18 (US$6–US$14), entrees C$12–C$24 (US$9–US$18). Daily 11am–9pm; offseason hours are variable year-to-year—call ahead.
Exploring St. Andrews
Look for A Guide to Historic St. Andrews, produced by the St. Andrews Civic Trust (or download a copy to your phone at www.standrewscivictrust.ca). With this in hand you’ll be able to launch your own mini history tour. To make it even easier, many of the private dwellings in St. Andrews feature plaques with information on their origins. Look in particular for the saltbox-style homes, some of which are thought to be the original Loyalist structures that traveled here by barge.
The village’s compact and handsome downtown flanks Water Street, a lengthy commercial street that parallels the bay. You’ll find low, understated commercial architecture, much of it from the turn of the 20th century, that encompasses a gamut of styles. Allow an hour or so for browsing at boutiques and art galleries. There’s also a mix of restaurants and inns.
At the west end, where Water Street becomes Joe’s Point Road, a stout wooden blockhouse sits just off the water behind low grass-covered earthworks; it was built by townspeople during the War of 1812, when the British colonials anticipated a U.S. attack that never came. This structure is all that remains of the scattered fortifications created around town during that war. Across the street from the blockhouse, the peaceful Centennial Gardens were established in 1967 to mark the centenary of Canadian confederation. The compact, tidy park has views of the bay and makes a pleasant spot for a picnic.
At its east end, Water Street curves around the open space of Indian Point and the Kiwanis Oceanfront campground. The views of the bay are panoramic; somehow it’s even dramatic on foggy days, and swimming in these icy waters will earn you definite bragging rights. Look for history right at your feet when exploring the park’s rocky beaches: You’ll sometimes turn up worn and rounded flint and coral that has washed ashore. It’s not native, but rather imported—early traders sailing here from afar loaded up their holds with flint from Dover, England, and coral from the Caribbean to serve as ballast on their crossings. When they arrived, the ballast was just dumped offshore, and today it still churns up from the depths.
For a more protected swimming spot, wander down Acadia Drive, which runs downhill behind the Algonquin. You’ll come to popular Katy’s Cove, where floating docks form a sort of natural saltwater swimming pool along a lovely inlet. You’ll find a snack bar, a playground, and an affable sense of gracious ease here, and it’s a fine place for families to while away an afternoon. There’s a small fee.
Kingsbrae Garden PARK This 11-hectare (27-acre) public garden opened in 1998, using the former grounds of a long-gone estate. The designers incorporated the existing high hedges and trees, and have ambitiously planted open space around the mature plants. The entire project is very promising, and as the plantings take root and mature, it’s certain to become a noted stop for garden lovers. The grounds include almost 2,000 varieties of trees (including old-growth forest), shrubs, and plants. Among the notable features: a day lily collection, an extensive rose garden, a small maze, a fully functional Dutch windmill that circulates water through the two duck ponds, and a children’s garden with an elaborate Victorian-mansion playhouse. With views over the lush lawns to the bay below, the on-site Garden Cafe is a pleasant place to stop for lunch. (Try the thick, creamy seafood chowder and one of the focaccia bread sandwiches.) There’s also a gift shop and art gallery. Those with a horticultural bent should plan to spend at least a few hours here.
220 King St., St. Andrews. www.kingsbraegarden.com. 866/566-8687 or 506/529-3335. C$16 (US$12) adults, C$12 (US$9) students and seniors, C$38 (US$29) family, free for ages 5 and under. Daily 9am–8pm (until 6pm Sept–mid-Oct). Closed mid-Oct–mid-May.
Ministers Island Historic Site/Covenhoven HISTORIC HOME This rugged, 200-plus-hectare (500-acre) island is linked to the mainland by a sandbar at low tide, and the 2-hour tours are scheduled around the tides. (Call for upcoming times.) You’ll meet your tour guide on the mainland side, then drive your car out convoy-style across the ocean floor to the magical island estate created in 1890 by Sir William Van Horne. As president of the Canadian Pacific Railway, Van Horne was the person behind the extension of the rail line to St. Andrews. He then built a sandstone mansion (Covenhoven) with some 50 rooms (including 17 bedrooms), a circular bathhouse (where he indulged his passion for landscape painting), and one of Canada’s largest and most impressive barns. The estate also features heated greenhouses, which produced grapes and mushrooms, along with peaches that weighed up to 2 pounds each. When Van Horne was home in Montreal, he had fresh dairy products and vegetables shipped daily (by rail, of course) so that he could enjoy fresh produce year-round. You’ll learn all this, and more, on the tours.
199 Carriage Rd. (off Rte. 127, northeast of St. Andrews), Chamcook. www.ministersisland.net. 506/529-5081. Tours C$10 (US$7.50) adults, kids under 8 free. Closed Nov–Apr.
Ross Memorial Museum HISTORIC HOUSE For a dose of local history, stop by this historic home, which was built in 1824; in 1945 the home was left to the town by Rev. Henry Phipps Ross and Sarah Juliette Ross, complete with their eclectic and intriguing collection of period furniture, carpets, and paintings.
188 Montague St., St. Andrews. www.rossmemorialmuseum.ca. 506/529-5124. Suggested donation C$4 (US$3) per person. June–early October, Tues–Sat 10am–4:30pm (Jul–Aug Mon also).
Wild Salmon Nature Centre NATURE CENTER The splashy visitor center of the Atlantic Salmon Federation is dedicated to educating the public about the increasingly rare and surprisingly intriguing Atlantic salmon. Located in a bright and airy post-and-beam facility, the center allows visitors to get oriented through exhibits, presentations, and viewing salmon through underwater windows or strolling the outdoor walkways along Chamcook Stream. Plan to spend about a half-hour here.
24 Chamcook Rd. (6.5km/4 miles from St. Andrews via Rte. 127). www.wildsalmonnaturecentre.ca. 506/529-1384. C$6.80 (US$5) adults, C$3.40 (US$2.50) students, C$17 (US$13) families. Mon–Sat 9am–5pm; Sun noon–5pm. Closed Sept–mid-May.
On the Water
St. Andrews is an excellent spot to launch an exploration of the bay, which is very much alive, biologically speaking. On the water you’ll look for whales, porpoises, seals, and bald eagles, no matter which trip you select. Two to 3-hour tours generally run C$60 to C$70 (US$45–US$52) per adult, less for children.
Quoddy Link Marine (www.quoddylinkmarine.com; 877/688-2600 or 506/529-2600) offers seasonal (late June to early Oct) whale-watching tours on a 17m (55-ft.) power catamaran, and the tour includes seafood snacks and use of binoculars; the tours take 21⁄2 to 3 hours. Two-hour tours in search of wildlife aboard 7.2m (24-ft.) rigid-hull Zodiacs are offered by Fundy Tide Runners (www.fundytiderunners.com; 506/529-4481); passengers wear flotation suits as they zip around the bay. This outfitter is open for a slightly longer season than many others, from mid-May to mid-October.
For a more traditional experience, sign up for a trip aboard the 22m (72-ft.) square-rigged cutter the Jolly Breeze of St. Andrews with Tall Ship Whale Adventures (www.jollybreeze.com; 866/529-8116 or 506/529-8116). The outfit offers 3-hour tours, three times daily, from mid-June through mid-October; tickets cost C$60 (US$45) per adult, C$40 (US$30) for children age 4 to 14. A discount for families of four or more is available. Watch for seals, dolphins, and eagles—all have been sighted from the ship’s deck.
In St. Andrews, The Algonquin Resort’s Thomas McBroom–designed golf course has long been a beauty—easily among Eastern Canada’s top 10, right behind the bigger-name stars on Cape Breton Island and Prince Edward Island. Among its draws: a set of seaside holes that become increasingly spectacular as you approach the point of land separating New Brunswick from Maine. The course reopened in 2017 following a thorough redesign (still in progress at press time) by golf architect Rod Whitman, who set out to maximize views of the Bay. Service and upkeep are impeccable here, and there are both a snack bar on premises and a roving club car with sandwiches and drinks. Greens fees are C$39 to C$105 (US$29–US$79) for 18 holes (carts cost extra; fees are lowest after 3pm). You can also rent clubs and take lessons, and there’s a short-game practice area in addition to a driving range; call 888/529-8693 or 506/529-8168 for tee times.
Grand Manan Island
Geologically rugged, profoundly peaceable, and indisputably remote, this handsome island of 2,800 year-round residents is a 90-minute ferry ride from the port of Blacks Harbour, which is just southeast of St. George in New Brunswick. Even though it is located incredibly close to Maine (you can see it from Quoddy Head near Lubec), you can’t get there from Maine directly.
Grand Manan is a much-prized destination for adventurous travelers—sometimes a highlight of their vacation. Yet the island remains a mystifying puzzle for others, who somehow or other fail to be smitten by its rough-edged charm. Either this is your kind of place, or it isn’t. The only way to find out is to visit.
Grand Manan is a special favorite among serious birdwatchers. Hiking the island’s trails, don’t be surprised to come across knots of very quiet people peering intently through their binoculars. Nearly 300 different species of birds either nest here or stop by the island during their long migrations; if you come at the right season, it’s a good place to add mightily to your “life list,” if you’re into such a pursuit. With birds ranging from bald eagles to puffins (though you’ll need to sign up for a boat tour to catch a glimpse of those sea-nesting puffins), you’re just about guaranteed to see something with wings you’ve never seen before except in books.
It’s also a favorite spot for devotees of Pulitzer Prize–winning novelist Willa Cather, who found her way from Nebraska and New York to a summer cottage here. Cather wrote some of her books while staying on the island. Her die-hard fans are as easy to spot as the birders, say locals, and something of a wild breed themselves; during one Cather conference some years ago, several dozen got up, wrapped themselves in sheets, and danced around a bonfire during the summer solstice.
arriving Grand Manan is connected to Blacks Harbour on the mainland via frequent ferry service in summer. Coastal Transport ferries (www.coastaltransport.ca; 506/642-0520), each capable of hauling 60 cars, depart from the mainland and the island every 2 hours between 7:30am and 5:30pm during July and August; a ferry makes 3 to 4 daily trips the rest of the year. The round-trip fare is C$12 (US$9) per passenger (C$6/US$4.50 for ages 5 to 12), plus C$36 (US$27) for your car if you’re bringing one. Note: Boarding the ferry on the mainland is free; you purchase the tickets when you leave the island. The ferry arrives in the village of North Head at the northern end of Grand Manan Island.
A couple of tips: Reserve your return boat at least a day ahead to avoid getting stranded on the island an extra night, and get in line early to secure a spot. A good strategy for departing from Blacks Harbour is to bring a picnic lunch, arrive an hour or two early, put your car in line, and head to the grassy waterfront park adjacent to the wharf. It’s an attractive spot; there’s even an island to explore at low tide.
Visitor Information The island’s Visitor Information Centre, at 130 Route 776 in Grand Harbour ( 888/525-1655 or 506/662-3442), is usually open daily in summer. It’s closed from mid-September through early June, though; if you’re coming and it’s not open, ask at island stores or inns for a free island map published by the Grand Manan Tourism Association (www.grandmanannb.com), which has a listing of key island phone numbers and spots.
Where to Stay & Eat on Grand Manan Island
Options for dining out aren’t exactly extravagant on Grand Manan. The inns listed here offer good meals, however, and you’ll encounter a few more family restaurants and grocers along the road.
If you’re here on Saturday morning, late June through mid-September, check out the weekly farmer’s market in North Head.
Inn at Whale Cove CottagesInn at Whale Cove Cottages A delightful family-run compound, the Inn at Whale Cove is set in a grassy meadow overlooking a quiet and picturesque cove. The original building, a cozy 1816 farmhouse, has been restored rustically with a nice selection of country antiques. The three guest rooms in the main house are comfortable (Sally’s Attic has a small deck and a big view). There are also five cottages scattered about the property, varying in size from one to four bedrooms. One of the older units was author Willa Cather’s famous cottage—reason enough to stay here, for devotees of her writing--while the newer John’s Flat and Cove View cottages are the most modern, with extra bedrooms, dining rooms, decks, televisions, and so forth. The grounds, especially the path down to the quiet beach, are wonderful. Innkeeper Laura Buckley received her culinary training in Toronto, and the dining room demonstrates a deft touch with local ingredients. From June through mid-October, dinner is served nightly. Some cottages are only rented by the week; nearly all units are pet-friendly.
120 Whistle Rd., North Head. www.whalecovecottages.ca. 506/662-3181. 9 units. Inn rooms and select cottages C$140–C$150 (US$105–US$113) double; C$1000–C$1200 (US$750–US$900) weekly cottage. Rates include full breakfast. All but 1 unit closed Nov–Apr. Pets accepted for C$10/day (US$7.50/day). Amenities: Dining room; library; free Wi-Fi.
Marathon Inn A short walk from the ferry terminal, this former sea captain’s home overlooks glittering Flagg Cove. Rooms exude a certain old-timey farmhouse opulence, with floral bedspreads, antique furnishings, ornate wooden headboards, and clawfoot tubs. The floors are a little creaky and the walls a little thin in this aging place, but the house definitely has character—and, moreover, it has a terrific deck and beer and wine service, so you’ll mostl likely spend any down time enjoying an Adirondack chair and the ocean view. The adjacent dining room serves breakfast daily and sometimes, with a reservation, dinner.
19 Marathon Inn, North Head. www.marathoninn.com. 888/660-8488 or 506/662-8488. 24 units. C$89–C$139 (US$67–US$104) double and suite. Closed Nov–May. Amenities: Dining room; lounge; heated outdoor pool; free Wi-Fi.
camping on grand manan Island
Anchorage Provincial Park ( 800/561-0123 or 506/662-7022) has about 100 campsites scattered about forest and field, available late May to late September. There’s a small beach and a hiking trail on the property, and it’s well situated for exploring the southern part of the island. It’s very popular midsummer; call before you board the ferry to ask about campsite availability. Sites run from about C$25 to C$39 (US$19–US$29), some with hookups for RVs and some better suited for a simple tent.
Exploring grand manan Island
Start your explorations before you arrive. As you come abreast of the island aboard the ferry, head to the starboard side. You’ll soon see Seven Day’s Work in the rocky cliffs of Whale’s Cove, where seven layers of hardened lava and sill (intrusive igneous rock) have come together in a sort of geological Dagwood sandwich.
From the Island to Another Island |
Quiet as Grand Manan is, you can find even more solitude (and cross one more island off your life list) with an excursion to White Head Island. To get there, drive to Ingalls Head (follow Ingalls Head Road from Grand Harbour) and catch the half-hour ferry to this rocky island, home to about 200 locals. On the island, you can walk alongshore to the lighthouse guarding the way between Battle Beach and Sandy Cove. The ferry holds 12 cars, is free of charge, and sails up to 10 times daily in summer.
Once you’ve landed, you can begin to open the puzzle box that is local geology at the Grand Manan Museum (www.grandmananmuseum.ca; 506/662-3524) at 1141 Route 776 in Grand Harbour, one of three villages on the island’s eastern shore. The museum’s geology exhibit, located in the basement, offers pointers about what to look for as you roam the island. Birders will enjoy the Allan Moses collection upstairs, which features more than 300 stuffed and mounted birds in glass cases. The museum also has a fair amount of paraphernalia related to novelist Willa Cather, who summered on the island for many years, and an intriguingly random collection of stuff that’s washed ashore over the years from the frequent shipwrecks., The museum is open from June to mid-September, Monday through Friday 9am to 4pm; it’s also open on Saturdays during July and August. The requested admission is C$5 (US$3.75) for adults, C$3 (US$2.25) for seniors and students, and free for children ages 11 and under.
sports & outdoor activities on Grand Manan Island
This relatively flat and compact island is perfect for exploring by bike; the only stretches to avoid are some of the faster, less scenic segments of Route 776. All the side roads offer superb biking. Especially nice is the cross-island road (paved) to Dark Harbour, where you’ll find a few cabins, dories, and salmon pens. The route is wild and hilly at times but offers a memorable descent to the ocean on the island’s west side.
Bike rentals are available at Adventure High (www.adventurehigh.com; 800/732-5492 or 506/662-3563) in North Head, not far from the ferry. (Day-trippers who are fit enough should consider leaving their cars at Blacks Harbour and exploring the island by bike alone, then returning on the last ferry.) Bikes rent for C$25 (US$19) per day, C$18 (US$13) for a half-day.
Adventure High also offers sea kayak tours of the island’s shores for those who prefer a cormorant’s-eye view of the impressive cliffs. Kayak tours run from C$45 (US$34) for a 2-hour sunset tour to C$110 (US$82) for a full-day’s excursion. Adventure High also rents out cabins and offers multiday tours.
wonderful walks
Numerous hiking trails lace Grand Manan Island, and they offer a popular diversion throughout the summer. Trails can be found just about everywhere, but most are a matter of local knowledge. Don’t hesitate to ask for advice at your inn or the tourist information center, or even to ask anyone you meet on the street.
The invaluable guidebook Hiking Trails of New Brunswick (Goose Lane Editions; www.gooselane.com; 506/450-4251) lists 12 hikes with maps. Look for a copy at Of Time and Tides, 1217 Route 776 in Grand Harbor ( 506/662-3327), a cute crafts and gifts store with a small selection of local guidebooks.
The most accessible clusters of trails are at the island’s northern and southern tips. Head north up Whistle Road to Whistle Beach, and you’ll find both the Northwestern Coastal Trail and the Seven Day’s Work Trail , a pair of marked trails that track along the rocky shoreline with marvelous sea views. Near the low lighthouse and towering radio antennae at Southwest Head (follow Route 776 to the end), trails radiate out along cliffs topped with scrappy forest; the views are remarkable when the fog’s not in.
On the Water
A fine way to experience island ecology is to leave dry land behind and mosey offshore. Several outfitters on the island offer complete nature tours, providing a nice sampling of the world above and beneath the sea. On a boating excursion you might see minke, finback, or humpback whales, along with exotic birds including puffins and phalaropes.
Sea Watch Tours (www.seawatchtours.com; 877/662-8552 or 506/662-8552), run by Peter and Kenda Wilcox, operates a series of 5-hour excursions in season from July to late September, aboard a 13-meter (42-foot) vessel with sun canopy. Whale sightings are guaranteed or your money back. The rate is C$66 (US$49) for adults and C$46 (US$34) for children ages 12 and younger.
