7

Upper midcoast: Around Penobscot Bay

Let’s say you’re traveling east on the Maine coast along Route 1, and you’re the sort of person who travels with one eye on the compass or GPS heading. Somewhere around Rockland, you suddenly notice something strange: You’re pointed almost due north. Huh? Yet it’s true. The culprit behind this geographic quirk is Penobscot Bay, a sizable bite out of the coast that forces drivers to take a lengthy northerly detour in order to cross the head of the bay, where the Penobscot River flows into it at Bucksport.

Fear not; you’ll find some of Maine’s most distinctive coastal scenery in this little region, which is dotted with offshore islands and hills rising above the shore. Although the mouth of Penobscot Bay is occupied by two large islands, its waters still churn when the winds and tides are right.

Thanks to both its natural beauty and architectural cuteness, the bay’s western shore sees a steady stream of tourist traffic in summer, especially along the stretch of U.S. Route 1 passing through artsy Rockland and affluent Camden. You’ll need a small miracle to find a weekend bed without a reservation in summer or early fall. Nevertheless, this is a great area if you want to get a taste of the real Maine coast. Services for travelers are everywhere.

Following Route 1 around the bay, you can stop to check out the historic shipbuilding towns of Belfast and Searsport; detour south on the east side of the bay to visit the quiet tree-shaded streets of Castine, or get away from it all on outdoorsy Deer Isle. Forming the eastern boundary of Penobscot Bay, the lovely Blue Hill Peninsula is a sort of backroads paradise. If you came to Maine to get lost on country lanes that dead-end at the sea or loop back on themselves, this is the place. By and large, the peninsula is overlooked by the majority of Maine’s tourists, especially those who like their itineraries well structured and their destinations clear. In my book, that makes it doubly worth considering for a day or two’s visit.

Rockland & Environs

185 miles NE of Boston and 78 miles NE of Portland

Located on the southwestern edge of Penobscot Bay, Rockland has long been proud of its blue-collar waterfront roots. Built around the fishing industry, the city long historically dabbled in tourism but never really waded. With the recent decline of local fisheries and the rise of Maine’s tourist economy, though, that balance has shifted. Rockland is swiftly being colonized by restaurateurs, innkeepers, artisans, and other folks who are transforming the place from fish-processing center to arts-and-crafts mecca.

The waterfront has a small park from which windjammers come and go, but even more appealing is Rockland’s downtown—basically, one long street lined with historic brick architecture. If you’re seeking picturesque harbor towns, however, head instead for Camden (p. 145), Rockport (p. 164), Port Clyde (p. 143), or Stonington (p. 174). Rockland is best as a sensible local base for exploring a beautiful coastal region, especially if you like your towns to be a bit rough and salty around the edges.

Essentials

arriving

By car, U.S. Route 1 passes directly through the center of Rockland. Concord Coach (www.concordcoachlines.com;  800/639-3317) runs one to two daily buses from Portland and Boston.

Surprisingly, Rockland’s tiny local airport (Knox County Regional Airport, airport code RKD) is served by daily direct flights from Boston on Cape Air (www.capeair.com;  866/227-3247 or 508/771-6944) that are often remarkably affordable. There’s a local taxi on call, and rental car kiosks at the terminal. The airport itself is actually in Owls Head, off Route 73.

Visitor Information

The Penobscot Bay Regional Chamber of Commerce (www.therealmaine.com;  800/562-2529 or 207/596-0376) staffs an information desk on Park Drive by Harbor Park. It’s open daily from Memorial Day to Labor Day, on weekdays the rest of the year.

special Events

The Maine Lobster Festival (www.mainelobsterfestival.com;  800/562-2529) takes place at Rockland’s Harbor Park the first weekend in August (plus the preceding Thursday–Friday). Entertainers and vendors of all sorts of Maine products—especially, of course, the famous Maine crustaceans—fill the waterfront parking lot for thousands of festivalgoers who enjoy the pleasantly buttery atmosphere. The event includes the Maine Sea Goddess Coronation Pageant. Admission is $5–$10 per day for adults, $2 for children; food, of course, costs extra. Four-day passes are also available.

Penobscot Bay

During the last 2 weeks of October, Rockland celebrates the changing of colors—though with a unique twist: a scarecrow-making contest. It’s part of the city’s Festival of Scarecrows and Harvest Day celebrations.

Later, in late November, Rockland’s Festival of Lights kicks off with Santa arriving not by reindeer but by Coast Guard boat—make of that what you will—then moves on to a program of caroling, horse-drawn carriage rides, a parade, and interesting tours of some of the area’s most historic inns. Call  207/596-0376 for more information.

Where to Stay in Rockland

As Rockland’s star has risen as an arts and culture destination, a few stylish new hotel options have popped up, while old classics have gotten a “boutique” rebrand. New in 2016, the Rockland Harbor Hotel (520 Main St.; www.rocklandharborhotel.com;  207/594-2131) transformed a run-down old motor inn into a fresh, attractive 82-room property with seaside color schemes and balconies overlooking the ferry terminal. With doubles hovering around $200 night in peak season, it’s within walking distance to everything downtown. If you’re craving that “old Maine” seaside inn feel, you can still find it, especially farther down the peninsula. Try the East Wind Inn in Tenant’s Harbor (www.eastwindinn.com;  800/241-8439 or 207/372-6366), at 21 Mechanic Street. It’s a former sail loft converted to lodgings, perfectly situated beside the harbor with water views from all rooms and a long wraparound porch. Doubles with private bathrooms start around $175 during the summer.

The city of Rockland has made an effort to regulate rampant seasonal Airbnb rentals, but you won’t want for options on that or other online rental platforms, and there are deals to be had.

250 Maine Hotel    This boutique hotel has a high-design, industrial-chic feel that calls to mind urban condos—which is just what the building was initially intended to be, although it eventually became a hotel for lack of demand. The developer’s loss is travelers’ gain. Running with Rockland’s revived identity as an arts destination, the hotel hasn’t found a wall that it couldn’t decorate with local art, from crisp landscape photography to watercolors to reimagined 1950s tourism propaganda—there’s even artist-designed wallpaper. Rooms are individually designed/decorated, and both they and the common areas are filled with midcentury modern furniture in bright colors and lots of showy reclaimed wood. If none of that is mod enough for you, each room has a complimentary concierge tablet to play around on. On a summer evening, the rooftop deck overlooking the harbor is a pretty unbeatable place to unwind (and they pour wine up there).

250 Maine St., Rockland. www.250mainhotel.com.  207/594-5994. 26 units. Memorial Day–Columbus Day $315–$489 double; rest of year $173–$250 double. Packages available. Amenities: free Wi-Fi.

Berry Manor Inn    A stalwart midcoast B&B, Berry Manor goes for classic luxury with just a bit of quirk. On the one hand, expect poster beds, floral wallpaper, rich draperies and bedding, pillows piled up like an opium den—all the over-the-top trappings of Victorian comfort. On the other hand, there’s co-owner Mike LaPosta showing off his collection of dancing toy hamsters, and there’s the three Pie Moms—two moms of the owners plus a third tag-along, who have enjoyed some local celebrity after cable TV appearances alongside Bobby Flay and Mike Rowe. The daffy trio cracks wise while baking knockout fruit pies from scratch—and these are available to guests, along with vanilla ice cream, in a 24/7 pantry. Yum.

81 Talbot Ave. www.berrymanorinn.com.  207/596-7696. 12 units. June–mid-Oct $140–$315 double; late Oct–May $125–$285 double. Rates include breakfast. Packages available. Amenities: Free Wi-Fi.

LimeRock Inn    This turreted, Queen Anne–style inn sits sleepily on a quiet side street just 2 blocks off Rockland’s main drag. Attention has been paid to detail throughout, from the kingly choices of country Victorian furniture to the Egyptian cotton bed sheets. All eight guest rooms are welcoming and colorful, bordering on whimsical; among the best are the Island Cottage Room, a bright and airy south-of-France-like chamber wonderfully converted from an old shed (it has a private deck and a Jacuzzi); the Turret Room, with a canopy bed, cherry daybed, and French doors leading into a bathroom with a claw-foot tub and shower; and the elegant Grand Manan Room, with a big four-poster mahogany king bed, fireplace, and double Jacuzzi that puts one in mind of a southern plantation home.

96 Limerock St., Rockland. www.limerockinn.com.  800/546-3762. 8 units. $125–$249 double. Rates include full breakfast. Amenities: Free Wi-Fi.

Samoset Resort    Established in 1889 on a scenic hill just outside Rockland (technically it’s in Rockport), the Samoset was meant as a grown-up summer camp for the wealthy. Even the cathedral-ceilinged lobby, constructed of massive timbers salvaged from an old grain silo in Portland, is worth photographing. This is not the original building—the original was shuttered, auctioned off, and destroyed by fire decades ago. But the place has bounced back big-time as a noted golf resort and luxury property, thanks to a number of exciting recent upgrades. A few years back, a new heated pool and hot tub were added on the hill’s highest point, with sweeping views of the bay, plus a tiki bar serving frozen drinks and light meals. Rooms vary in position and view, but many have balconies or porches with grand Penobscot Bay views; all have rich wood-and-leather headboards, flatscreen TVs, and marble vanities. Bathrooms are extra-big, some with whirlpool tubs. The golf course remains one of the most scenic in New England, while the quiet local roads are perfect for strolling, and there’s even a mini-lighthouse adjacent to the property. Check out the good health club, then head to dinner—your options include seasonal Marcel’s, serving excellent resort fare, and the Breakwater Grill, serving lighter fare year-round. All in all, a great luxury comeback.

220 Warrenton St., Rockport. www.samoset.com.  800/341-1650 or 207/594-2511. 178 units. Early July–late Aug $299–$339 double, $409–629 suite; May–early July and late Aug–Nov $159–$299 double, $259–$589 suite; $619–$1,849 cottages year-round. MAP rates available. Amenities: 3 restaurants; babysitting; children’s programs; concierge; fitness center; golf course; golf school; health club; Jacuzzi; indoor pool; heated outdoor pool; room service; sauna; 4 tennis courts; free Wi-Fi.

Where to Eat in Rockland

A good choice for the family in downtown Rockland is the Italian eatery Rustica Cucina Italians (www.rusticamaine.com;  207/594-0015), serving standard Italian favorites. It’s open for lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday in high season; call for off-season hours. For a night on the town, don’t miss Fog on Main Street ( 207/593-9371). With high ceilings, hand built blond-wood furniture, and classic movies screening on the back wall, the vibe (and clientele) pretty nicely encapsulates the “new midcoast”: hip, not flashy, a little rustic. The American brasserie chow fits the same description—great burgers, fish tacos, and truffle mac and cheese. Terrific beer list at the long bar.

Cafe Miranda ECLECTIC   A midcoast institution, Café Miranda has one of the longest, craziest menus in New England. Hidden on a side street, it’s a tiny, contemporary restaurant with a huge ever-morphing menu of big flavors and hip attitude. “We do not serve the food of cowards,” owner-chef Kerry Altiero is quoted right on top of the menu, and he’s right. I could write a whole book on the regularly changing menu here, but Altiero already did in 2014—Adventures in Comfort Food, which pretty well sums it up. Small plates and entrees could include things like grilled lamb patties with parsley and garlic; “50 MPH tomatoes” deep-fried and served with spicy ranch dressing; a “squash-o’-rama” (roasted squash with cheese); fire-roasted feta with sweet peppers, tomatoes, “really good” olives, and herbs; a Portuguese seafood combo of mussels, shrimp, clams, fish, and sausage steamed in wine and pummeled with parsley; “Aunt Fluffy’s Pasta” (penne with veggies, caramelized onions, and Romano); the “Polish hippie” (grilled sausage with horseradish, arugula, and beets!); “Old Bleu” (handmade pasta tossed in blue cheese and basil cream); chicken paprikash; steaks; or, of course, the immortal “Pitch a Tent”: sausage, gravy, onions, garlic, and mushrooms beneath a “tent” of pasta. Share everything with your fellow diners, because you’ll never eat at a place this original again. Altiero again: “It’s comfort food for whatever planet you’re from.” Amen.

15 Oak St., Rockland. www.cafemiranda.com.  207/594-2034. Lunch $11–$20, small plates $12–$19, entrees $15–$27. Mon–Thurs 11:30am–2pm and 5–8:30pm, Fri–Sat 11:30am–2pm and 5–9pm, Sun 10:30am–2pm and 5–8:30pm. Reservations strongly recommended.

Suzuki’s JAPANESE   Keiko Suzuki Steinberger started surprising diners in Rockland with her distinctive brand of sushi back in 2006. The mostly self-taught sushi chef (she did a brief stint at Tokyo’s Sushi Academy) relies heavily on the local catch, so expect to find exquisitely plated and unconventional sashimi, maki, and nigiri made with halibut, herring, mackerel, tuna, whelks, or clams. Chef Keiko was a 2016 James Beard Foundation semifinalist; more than a decade in, her kitchen staff (all women) are at the top of their game.

419 Main St., Rockland. www.suzukisushi.com.  207/596-7447. Sushi $3–$11, noodle dishes $14–$25. Tues–Sat 5–9pm.

Yardbird Canteen SEAFOOD   Discovering a great meal at an unassuming seafood shack on a quiet coastal road is why you came to Maine, right? Yardbird’s “dining room” is a set of picnic tables under an awning in what is actually someone’s backyard (with little buckets full of citronella and bug spray because, duh, Maine summer). Yardbird has a limited barbecue menu, but what it really excels at is fried fish. Magic batter and a perfect fry makes for light and golden fish and chips, fried clams, and more, served in a basket lined with faux newspaper. Big yard for the kiddos to play in. To get here, head west out of Rockland on Route 1 to Thomaston (3 miles), then go south on Route 131 another 14 miles.

686 Port Clyde Rd., Tenant’s Harbor.  207/372-1068. Sandwiches $6–$14, seafood baskets $10–$23. Mid-May–mid-Sept Thurs–Sat 11am–7pm, Sun 11am–5pm.

Crafting a vacation

The Maine coast has been a haven for visual artists, jewelers, sculptors, photographers, potters, and other creative types for as long as I can remember. Studios, galleries, arts centers, and museums of surprising quality crop up nearly everywhere, even in the tiniest coastal villages.

While cruising the coast, you’d do well to drop in to some of these crafts studios—and the best way to find them quickly is to contact the Maine Crafts Association (www.mainecrafts.org;  207/205-0791), which publishes a comprehensive annual guidebook to its member artists, which maintains a database of its members online, searchable both by media and region. You’ll find everything from glassblowers to sculptors to fiber artists to basketmakers.

It’s recommended you call ahead to get studio hours before making the trek to an out-of-the-way crafts studio or gallery. They are artists, after all—hours are likely to be a little whimsical.

Primo MEDITERRANEAN/NEW AMERICAN   Primo opened in 2000 and quickly developed a buzz as one of northern New England’s top eats; it still is. The restaurant occupies two nicely decorated floors of a century-old home, a short drive south of Rockland’s downtown. Owner/chef Melissa Kelly graduated first in her class at the Culinary Institute of America and won a James Beard Foundation award for “best chef in the Northeast” in the 1990s and again in 2013. Her Italian-inflected menu reflects the seasons and draws from local products wherever available (much of the meat and produce the kitchen’s working with comes off the restaurant’s expansive farm). Start with an appetizer such as wood-fired pizza with artisanal mushrooms, planked octopus with chickpea salad, seared foie gras over poached strawberries, antipasti, or fried and roasted local oysters paired with rémoulade sauce and house-cured Tasso ham. Entrees might run to seared diver scallops with fettuccine, local halibut over a white bean puree, monkfish medallions with peekytoe crab-risotto cakes, grilled steak or duck, tuna au poivre, or chicken with lavender-and-honey roasted figs and a sweet ricotta gnocchi. Finish with one of co-owner/pastry chef Price Kushner’s inventive desserts: warm Belgian chocolate cake, an espresso float, a rhubarb-strawberry tartlet with vanilla gelato and strawberry sauce, homemade cannoli, a bowl of hot zeppole (small Italian doughnuts) tossed in cinnamon and sugar, or an apple crostata sided with pine-nut-and-caramel ice cream. The wine list is outstanding. It’s hard to get a last-minute table here during summer; failing that, order off the menu from the cozy upstairs bar.

2 S. Main St. (Rte. 173), Rockland. www.primorestaurant.com.  207/596-0770. Appetizers $13–$18, entrees $33–$48. Summer daily 5:30–9:30pm; call for dates and hours in off season; closed Jan–early May. Reservations highly recommended.

windjammers On the Water

During the transition from sail to steam, captains of fancy new steamships belittled old-fashioned sailing ships as “windjammers.” The term stuck; through a curious metamorphosis, the name evolved into one of adventure and romance.

Maine is the windjammer cruising capital of the U.S., and the two most active Maine harbors are Rockland and Camden on Penobscot Bay. Cruises last from 3 days to a week, during which these handsome, creaky vessels poke around tidal inlets and small coves that ring the beautiful bay. It’s a superb way to explore the coast the way it’s historically always been explored—from out on the water, looking in. Rates run between about $110 and $180 per day per person (which is $300–$1,200 per person for an entire trip); the best rates are offered early and late in the season.

Maine boasts a sizable fleet of sailing ships both vintage and modern that offer private cabins, meals, entertainment, and adventure. The ships range in size from 50 to 130 feet, and accommodations range from cramped and rustic to reasonably spacious and well appointed. Most are berthed in the region between Boothbay Harbor and Belfast—they cruise the Penobscot Bay region during summer, and some migrate south to the Caribbean for the winter.

Cruise schedules and amenities vary widely from ship to ship, even from week to week, depending on the inclinations of captains and the vagaries of Maine weather. You choose your adventure: An array of excursions is available, from simple overnights to weeklong expeditions gunkholing among Maine’s thousands of scenic islands and coves. A “standard” cruise often features a stop at one or more of the myriad spruce-studded Maine islands (perhaps with a lobster bake on shore). Breakfasts are served at tables below decks (or perched cross-legged on the deck), and you absorb a palpable sense of maritime history as the ships scud through frothy waters.

Ideally, you’ll have a chance to look at a couple of ships to find one that suits you before signing up. Several windjammer festivals and races are held along the Maine coast throughout the summer; these are perfect events to shop for a ship on which to spend a few days. Among the more notable events are Windjammer Days in Boothbay Harbor (late June; see p. 131) and the Camden Windjammer Weekend in early September (see p. 156). If you can’t do that, contact the Maine Windjammer Association (www.sailmainecoast.com;  800/807-9463) for a packet of brochures or simply check its good website of member ships and comparison-shop. If you’re trying to book a last-minute windjammer cruise on a whim, stop by the chamber of commerce office on the Rockland waterfront (see above) and inquire about open berths.

Exploring Rockland

Rockland’s walkable Main Street, close enough to the harbor that you can catch a whiff at low tide, is lined with restaurants, boutiques, art galleries, and two of Maine’s most impressive museums in the Center for Maine Contemporary Art and the Farnsworth Museum. You may also want to check out the contemporary art at the Dowling Walsh Gallery, 365 Main Street. Not so long ago, a lot of these storefronts were empty, but comparatively cheap real estate has attracted creative types, entrepreneurs, and younger folks and families who can afford this still-rough-around-the-edges harbor town better than Camden and Rockport. When the CMCA opened in 2016, it seemed like confirmation of Rockland’s new direction, and a handful of sleek new Main Street restaurants opened on its heels.

Artists have long been drawn to Rockland’s coastal surroundings (and the islands nearby). A trip to nearby Cushing, 12 miles southwest of Rockland, shows off scenery that’s been captured on canvas by the likes of Edward Hopper and Andrew Wyeth (including the farmhouse made famous in Christina’s World—see below). It’s worth a call to the Georges River Land Trust at  207/594-5166 to ask about the Langlais Sculpture Preserve at 576 River Road; as of this writing, it is slated to open in fall 2017. When it’s open, the pastoral property will feature a self-guided walk among the site-specific sculptures of the late Bernard Langlais, a much-admired, somewhat whimsical sculptor whose preferred medium was scrap wood. Highlights include his geometric, 13-foot Horse and a model of Richard Nixon standing in a pond.

Center for Maine Contemporary Art MUSEUM   The sleek new headquarters of the CMA opened in 2016 to much fanfare, and the architecturally striking building on the old waterfront (its spiky roofline is meant to recall the waves) has been drawing crowds since to its three galleries filled with cutting edge (often sculptural or multimedia) contemporary art. In the courtyard outside, a piece from Maine artist Jonathan Barofsky’s 24-foot Human Structures series (he has similar sculptures permanently installed in San Francisco and Beijing) gives you a pretty good idea what you’re in for: work that’s modern, a little abstract, and a little whimsical.

21 Winter St., Rockland. www.cmcanow.org.  207/701-5005. $6 adults, kids 12 and under free. June–Oct Tues–Sat 10am–6pm, Sun 1–6pm; Nov–May Wed–Sat 10am–5pm, Sun 1–5pm; first Friday of every month 10am–8pm with free admission.

Farnsworth Museum MUSEUM   Rockland, for all its rough edges, has long and historic ties to the arts. Noted sculptor Louise Nevelson grew up in Rockland, and in 1935 philanthropist Lucy Farnsworth bequeathed a fortune to establish the Farnsworth Museum, which has since become one of the most respected little art museums in New England. Located right downtown, the Farnsworth has a superb collection of paintings and sculptures by renowned American artists with connections to Maine—not only Nevelson, but also three generations of Wyeths (N. C., Andrew, and Jamie), plus Rockwell Kent, Childe Hassam, and Maurice Prendergast. The exhibit halls are modern, spacious, and well designed, and shows are professionally prepared. Equally interesting is the museum-owned Olson House , a 25-minute drive southwest from Rockland, in the village of Cushing; it’s perhaps Maine’s most well-known home, immortalized in Andrew Wyeth’s famous painting Christina’s World.

356 Main St., Rockland. www.farnsworthmuseum.org.  207/596-6457. Museum $15 adults, $13 seniors, $10 students 17 and older, free for children under 17; add $5 for admission to Olson House. June–Oct daily 10am–5pm; Nov–Dec Tues–Sun 10am–5pm; Jan–March Wed–Sun 10am–4pm; April–May Tues–Sun 10am–5pm.

Owls Head Transportation Museum MUSEUM   You don’t need to be a car or plane buff to enjoy this museum, though it helps. Founded in 1974 and located 3 miles south of Rockland on Route 73, the museum has an extraordinary collection of cars, motorcycles, bicycles, and planes, nicely displayed in a tidy, hangarlike building at the edge of the Knox County Airport. Look for an early Harley Davidson motorcycle and a sleek Rolls-Royce Phantom dating from the roaring ’20s.

117 Museum St., Owls Head. www.ohtm.org.  207/594-4418. $14 adults, $10 seniors, under 18 free. Daily 10am–5pm.

Strand Theatre THEATER   The social hub of Main Street on any given Friday or Saturday night is the sidewalk outside the Strand, where theatergoers gather underneath the bright vertical marquee that’s kind of a totem of Rockland’s downtown. Restored in 2004, the nearly century-old theater hosts first-run indie movies and documentaries, concerts by national touring bands like BeauSoleil and Patty Griffin (the schedule is Americana-heavy), and the occasional local theater performance.

345 Main St. www.rocklandstrand.com.  207/594-0070. Shows nightly.

Camden

8 miles N of Rockland

A quintessential coastal Maine town at the foot of wooded Camden Hills, the affluent village of Camden sits on a picturesque harbor that no Hollywood movie set could improve on. It has been attracting the gentry of the eastern seaboard for more than a century. The mansions of the moneyed set still dominate the town’s shady side streets (many have been converted into bed-and-breakfasts), and Camden is possessed of a grace and sophistication that eludes many other coastal towns.

On the downside, some longtime visitors say that all this attention (and Camden’s growing appeal to bus tours) is having a deleterious impact on the atmosphere; yes, there are T-shirt shops here. And there are occasional cries raised about the increasing snootiness of the place. As long as you don’t expect a pristine, undiscovered fishing village, you’ll be in good shape to enjoy it.

Essentials

arriving

By car, Camden is right on U.S. Route 1. Coming from the south, you can shave a few minutes off the trip here by turning left onto state Route 90 about 6 miles past Waldoboro, bypassing the downtown streets of the city of Rockland. Concord Coach (www.concordcoachlines.com;  800/639-3317) runs bus service (one or two trips daily) from Boston and Portland; buses stop at the Maritime Farms grocery store on Route 1 in Rockport, a little more than a mile’s walk from either downtown Camden or Rockport harbor. (For more on Rockport, see p. 164).

Camden

Visitor Information

The Penobscot Bay Regional Chamber of Commerce (www.camdenrockland.com;  800/562-2529 or 207/236-4404), dispenses helpful information from its center at the Public Landing (waterfront) in Camden, where there’s also free parking—though spaces are pretty scarce in summer. The chamber is open daily year-round.

In need of a hotel room? Camden Accommodations and Reservations (www.camdenac.com;  800/344-4830 or 207/236-6090) provides assistance with everything from booking rooms at local B&Bs to finding cottages for seasonal rentals.

special events

Humanities types will enjoy Camden’s annual Harbor Arts and Books Fairs ( 800/223-5459 or 207/236-4404), two weekends of local artworks displayed against the stunningly scenic backdrop of the Camden Hills’ changing colors, along with a giant, tented used book sale. One happens in July, the other early in October. In between, over Labor Day weekend, the Camden Windjammer Festival (see box p. 152) sees the region’s tall-ship fleet parade through the harbor, along with food, music, and games like the annual lobster crate race, with kids (and the occasional brave adult) bounding across bobbing wooden crates in the harbor).

Where to Stay in Camden

Camden vies with Kennebunkport, Maine, and Manchester, Vermont, for the title of “bed-and-breakfast capital of New England.” They’re everywhere. The stretch of Route 1 just north of the village center—called High Street here—is a virtual bed-and-breakfast alley, with many handsome homes converted to lodgings. Others are tucked away on side streets.

Despite the preponderance of B&Bs, though, the total number of guest rooms in town is still too small to accommodate the crush of peak-season visitors, and during summer or fall, the lodging is tight. It’s best to reserve well in advance. You might also try Camden Accommodations and Reservations (www.camdenac.com;  800/344-4830 or 207/236-6090) for help in finding anything from overnight rooms to seasonal rentals. In the name of keeping these folks in business, Camden has recently cracked down a bit on townsfolk offering private rentals through Airbnb and VRBO, prohibiting standalone properties (as compared to spare rooms) from renting for any duration shorter than a week. Further permitting and inspection regulations may be forthcoming, but for now, there are still plenty of properties available in summer via these online rental platforms.

If the inns and B&Bs listed below are unavailable or out of your budget, a handful of area motels and hotels might be able to accommodate you. South of the village center on Route 1 are the Cedar Crest Inn, 115 Elm Street (www.cedarcrestinnmaine.com;  207/236-4839), a handsome seasonal motel (peak-season rates $159–$169, spring and fall cheaper), and the longtime mainstay Towne Motel, 68 Elm Street (www.camdenmotel.com;  207/236-3377), within walking distance of the village (open year-round; peak season rates $124–$139 double, cheaper off-season). Also right in town, just across the footbridge, is the modern, if generic, Camden Riverhouse Hotel and Inns, 11 Tannery Lane (www.camdenmaine.com;  207/236-0500), with an indoor pool, fitness center, and Wi-Fi. It’s open year-round; peak season rates range from $209 to $269 for a double room or suite, while the off-season is far cheaper.

16 Bay View    Until this boutique hotel opened in late 2015, Camden strangely lacked any true waterfront hotel lodging. A former moviehouse and restaurant, 16 Bay View is just steps from the harbor, with views of the waves and the tall-masted ships from the top-floor accommodations and the rooftop terrace. You’ll pay for it, of course—the hotel pitches to a luxury crowd, and the fireplaces, free-standing pedestal tubs, and Cuddledown bedding give the rooms a pretty genteel feel. Continental breakfast (good pastries and quiches) is delivered in-room each morning. The clubby bistro/bar/lounge feels like a world away from the busy Camden street scene in midsummer (and the tapas plates are pretty yum).

16 Bay View St., Camden. www.16bayview.com.  844/213-7990. 21 units. July–Oct $329–$379 double, $449–$649 suite; May–June and Nov-Dec $209–$299 double, $349–$499 suite; Jan–April $149–$239 double, $259–$399 suite. Rates include a full breakfast. Some rooms accommodate pets ($35 per night fee). Packages available. Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; rooftop bar; free Wi-Fi.

The Belmont Inn    A handsome, shingle-style 1890s home with a wraparound porch, the Belmont is set in a quiet residential neighborhood of unpretentious homes away from Route 1. The inn has an understated, Victorian sort of theme throughout, featuring numerous floral prints by Maine artist Jo Spiller for instance (there’s also a guest room with great morning light named after Spiller). All units have polished wood floors and are furnished simply with eclectic antiques and country touches such as cast-iron stoves, sleigh beds, writing desks, and wingback chairs. Downstairs, there’s an elegant common room with a fireplace alcove and built-in benches. One room, the Allen Room, magically becomes a suite (and costs more) when the owners open a little door connecting it to a sitting room.

6 Belmont Ave., Camden. www.thebelmontinn.com.  207/236-8053. 6 units. $169–$259 double; $259–$299 suite. Rates include full breakfast. No children 11 and under. Packages available. Amenities: Free Wi-Fi.

Blue Harbor House Inn    On busy Route 1 just south of town, this pale-blue 1810 farmhouse has been an inn since 1978. It’s decorated throughout with a floral, country look. Rooms and suites vary in size; some are smallish, with slanting angles and low ceilings, but you can expect touches such as four-poster beds, claw-foot tubs, wicker furniture, Jacuzzis, triptych mirrors, writing desks, and slipper chairs in various configurations. And the exposed wood floors are absolutely lovely. The best rooms are the carriage-house suites, with their private entrances and extra amenities—two, Captains Quarters and Compass Rose, share a private outdoor patio. The early evening hours feature a nice cocktail service, with cocktails made to order and lovely hors d’oeuvre for a small extra charge. (Fun fact: One of the owners used to work as a cocktail bartender on the real “Love Boat” cruise ship; Gopher, Isaac, and Julie would be proud.)

67 Elm St., Camden. www.blueharborhouse.com.  800/248-3196 or 207/236-3196. 11 units. $125–$189 double; $159–$199 suite. Rates include full breakfast. Packages available. Amenities: Dining room; shared refrigerator; library; free Wi-Fi.

Camden Harbour Inn    This 1871 mansion sits in a quiet neighborhood on a rise with a view of the sea and mountains beyond, on the way to Rockport—think of it as Camden’s “quiet side.” This had been just another fusty, Victorian-era hotel until 2007, when it got a complete makeover from the two Dutchmen who bought it. No longer a creaky place of floral wallpaper and simple antiques, it’s now one of the region’s more renowned luxury inns, a member of the Relais & Chateaux collection, with a spa, gourmet restaurant, even a wine refrigerator in every room. The place is all about modern design. All rooms have private bathrooms and flatscreen TVs, of course, but most also feature water views, fireplaces, and/or terraces. The New Amsterdam Suite is one of the poshest in town, with its king-size featherbed and two private decks; other suites are designed in Taiwanese, Thai, and Mauritian themes. The inn’s within walking distance of downtown, and there’s an excellent French-influenced, farm-to-table restaurant, Natalie’s , as well.

83 Bayview St., Camden. www.camdenharbourinn.com.  800/236-4266 or 866/626-1504 20 units. Mid-June–mid-Oct $399–$475 double, $499–$1,490 suite; late Oct–early June $225–$295 double, $325–$699 suite. Rates include full breakfast. 2-night minimum on weekends in peak season. Packages available. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; spa; free Wi-Fi.

Camden Maine Stay Inn    The Maine Stay is one of Camden’s friendliest bed-and-breakfasts. In a home dating from 1802 (later expanded in Greek Revival style in 1840), it’s your classic slate-roofed New England manse in a shady yard within walking distance of both downtown and Camden Hills State Park. Guest rooms, spaced out over three floors, have ceiling fans (only a few have televisions). Each is distinctively furnished in antiques; expect lots of frilly and floral things, handsome exposed wooden floors, and wicker furniture. Note that top-floor rooms have foreshortened ceilings with intriguing angles. The downstairs Carriage House Room unit, away from the buzz of Route 1, is popular: Its French doors lead to a private stone patio, while a Vermont Castings stove keeps things toasty inside. Interesting tidbit: The inn’s owned by two Italian innkeepers—one from the south of Italy, one from Milan (the north).

22 High St., Camden. www.mainestay.com.  207/236-9636. 8 units. $110–$250 double and suite. Rates include full breakfast. Packages available. Children 12 and older welcome. Amenities: Dining room; 2 parlors; sun porch; free Wi-Fi.

Inn at Sunrise Point    This peaceful, private sanctuary 4 miles north of Camden’s bustling main drag, in the quieter village of Lincolnville, seems a world apart. Service is crisp and helpful, and the setting can’t be beat: the edge of Penobscot Bay, down a long, tree-lined gravel road. The property is a cluster of contemporary, yet classic, shingled buildings; a granite bench and Adirondack chairs on the lawn allow guests to enjoy the views. Guest rooms and suites—each named for a different Maine writer or artist—are spacious, comfortable, and packed with amenities such as fireplaces, TVs with VCRs, individual heat controls, and stunning views from the plentiful windows. Breakfasts are served in a sunny conservatory. The inn’s four cottages are even more luxe and private, featuring double Jacuzzis, fireplaces, wet bars, and private decks; the Fitz Hugh Lane cottage almost feels like it’s in the bay.

55 Sunrise Point Rd., Lincolnville. www.sunrisepoint.com.  207/236-7716. 12 units. $335–$525 double and suite; $395–$685 cottage Rates include full breakfast. 5% inn service charge and 7% state sales tax. 2-night minimum stay Memorial Day–Columbus Day. Closed Jan–Apr. No children 13 and under. Packages available. Amenities: Bar service; library; free Wi-Fi.

Lincolnville Motel    It’s far from the most opulent lodging on the Maine Coast, but it might be the most fun. Built as a motor-court motel in the 1950s, this set of six cabins and a four-room motel got a lighthearted, minimalist refresh when Alice Amory reopened the place in 2015. The outdoor pool is full of goofy inflatable animals; the comfy little housekeeping cabins are appointed with mini-fridges, fresh flowers, and record players. Each has its own little deck, and the common spaces (a big shared yard and library) have a social vibe when the place is filled up. Not the place to stay if you want seclusion; terrific if you’d like to make friends (and enjoy one of the region’s best values).

4 Sea View Dr., Camden. www.lincolnvillemotel.com.  207/236-3195. 10 units. $85–$165 double; $105–$175 two-room cabin. Closed mid-Oct–mid-May. Amenities: Outdoor pool; library; free Wi-Fi in common area.

Norumbega Inn    You’ll have no problem at all finding the Norumbega: just head north out of town and look for the castle on the right. Well, it’s actually a mansion (built of stone in 1886 by telegraph system inventor Joseph Stearns), but it looks like a castle. Wonderfully eccentric and full of curves, turrets, angles, and rich materials, this hotel’s on the National Historic Registry. There’s extravagant carved-oak woodwork in the lobby, a stunning oak-and-mahogany inlaid floor, and a roomy solarium. When Sue Walser and Phil Crispo took it over in 2013, the stunning building had sat empty a couple years after some ups-and-downs with previous owners. They replaced a lot of dated furnishings and bedding, made some structural repairs, added heated bathroom floors, and rebuilt the awesome decks out back, which overlook a sprawling lawn and glittery sea. In short, the place is feeling much fresher than its 130 years. The two suites here rank among the finest in northern New England: the bright and airy Library Suite, in the original two-story library (so big it has an interior balcony, surrounded by books and a sliding ladder), and the sprawling Penthouse with its superlative bay views, king-size bed, and huge oval tub. Phil’s Culinary Institute of America training pays off at breakfast, and multi-course tasting dinners are an option as well.

63 High St., Camden. www.norumbegainn.com.  877/363-4646 or 207/236-4646. 11 units. June–Oct $269–$629 double and suite; Nov–May $199–$449 double and suite. All rates include full breakfast. 2-night minimum in summer, Sat–Sun, and holidays. Packages available. Amenities: Lounge; library; free Wi-Fi.

Whitehall    Set at the edge of town on busy Route 1, Whitehall is a venerable Camden institution, thanks partly to its association with local poet Edna St. Vincent Millay, who was “discovered” here by a guest who went on to fund Edna’s college education. But with new ownership and a $1.7-million, bottom-to-top renovation in 2015, the place feels a lot less like a musty historic tribute to an obscure poet. You’ll still find grand columns, gables, a long roofline, and atmospherically winding staircases, but gone are the antique furnishings and Oriental carpets, which have been replaced by bright patterned upholstery, a whole lot of upcycled barnwood, iPads and Apple TVs in every room, and accents of grasscloth and highly patinaed metal. No longer a country inn, Whitehall has a splashy boutique feel through and through (though a few rooms still share a hallway bathroom), complete with a hip restaurant up front (The Pig + Poet—see p. 161). The patio, with its firepit, is a terrific respite on cooler evenings.

52 High St., Camden. www.whitehall-inn.com.  800/789-6565 or 207/236-3391. 40 units, some with shared bathroom. July–Oct $279–$349 double; mid-May to June $109–$169 double. Rates include full breakfast. Closed Nov–mid-May. Packages available. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; concierge; free Wi-Fi.

Camping

Seasonally open Camden Hills State Park ( 207/236-3109), about a mile north of the village center on Route 1, has 107 campsites, which cost $35 to $45 per night for non-Maine residents in summer ($10 discount for residents), depending on whether you snag one of the new water-and-electrical hookup sites or not. There’s a discount from mid-September until the park closes.

Where to Eat in Camden

In addition to its fine-dining options, downtown Camden has a wealth of places to nosh, snack, lunch, and brunch. Some unbeatable breakfast skillets, for instance, are served up at busy Boynton-McKay, 30 Main Street ( 207/236-2465), a former pharmacy that’s now a locals’ favorite breakfast stop (and a great place for picking up picnic supplies, should you be so inclined.) Note that it’s closed on Mondays. Just up the street, pick up a bag of gourmet groceries at French & Brawn ( 207/236-3361) on Main Street at the corner of Elm.

Chez Michel FRENCH/SEAFOOD   This French-and-seafood restaurant, right across the road from the Isleboro ferry (about 6 miles north of downtown Camden), has had a devoted local following since 1992 when chef Jean Michel Hetuin opened it. That’s because it offers good value amid a sea of higher-priced area options, though the dining room has way more of a no-frills family-restaurant vibe than one might expect from the name. Instead, the menu blends elements of French, Maine, and American cooking. You might begin with mussels steamed in wine or locally smoked salmon, then move on to duck au poivre, steak Oscar, or haddock in meunière sauce . . . or you might get plunked down next to a local family enjoying a feed of lobsters, scallops, pasta, or fried oysters, and decide to join in the fun. Specials on the chalkboard could be anything from salmon Béarnaise to pan-fried haddock or tenderloin brochette—or could be a simple chicken parm.

Rte. 1, Lincolnville Beach.  207/789-5600. Entrees $19–$29. Tues–Sun 4–9:30pm (closed Tues until July). Closed mid-Oct–early May.

Francine Bistro FRENCH   This place feels more like a French brasserie in Manhattan’s Meatpacking District than a coastal seafood joint—and that’s a good thing. A meal from chef/owner Brian Hill (long-ago of the seminal Boston alternative-rock band Heretix, but I digress) might begin with sweet corn and chanterelle soup; a seviche of halibut, Serrano chilies, and red onions; mussels in Bordeaux and shallots; or skewers of grilled lamb with white pesto, orange, and endive. Entrees might run to roast chicken with a chèvre gratin or a cauliflower-cheese hash; duck à l’orange; a crispy skate wing with Jerusalem artichokes; slow-braised local pork with chili verde; mussels with lime and black butter; a haddock stuffed with scallops; or some always-reliable steak frites. Hill cut his teeth in some truly great kitchens around the country, and he was one of the pioneers of the last couple decades, nudging the state beyond the fried fish and lobster that so long characterized Maine dining.

55 Chestnut St., Camden. www.francinebistro.com.  207/230-0083. Entrees $15–$30. Tues–Sat 5:30–10pm. Reservations recommended.

Long Grain THAI   If you’d have told me WASPy little Camden had some of the county’s best Thai food, I wouldn’t have believed you, but here’s Long Grain. The glossy food mags have all sung its praises (the restaurant’s Chicken Khao Soi soup was even a Bon Appétit cover girl in 2013), and the impossibility of a walk-in table most summer nights is a pretty good vote of confidence. With just a handful of tables and bar seats (it’s rumored to be expanding soon), the dining room is cozy, but chefs Paula Palakawong and Ravin Nakjaroen turn out fragrant and flavorful dishes of ramen, pad seaw, and pad kemao (all with house-made noodles), along with terrific curries, pork dumplings, lemongrass mussels, and more. Call way ahead for takeout.

31 Elm St., Camden. www.longgraincamden.com.  207/236-9001. Entrees $9.50–$12.50. Tues–Sat 11:30am–2:45pm, 4:30–9pm. Reservations highly recommended.

Pig + Poet NEW AMERICAN   At the house restaurant at Whitehall (see p. 159), chef Justin Perdue somehow pulls off a menu that’s an unlikely combination of Southern comfort food and Maine farm/sea-to-table. It’s maybe the only menu I can think of where lobster mac-and-cheese makes thematic sense (and is actually quite good). Pork, as the name implies, is also central to the menu, popping up in the shrimp and grits, the gnocchi, and the clam chowder. Wisely, chef Perdue has kept it out of the lobster roll, though he’s added an unconventional filler of avocado, greens, and leeks that adds some brightness and crunch to that classic buttery Maine treat. The room is rustic-funky as can be, and clever cocktail names like The Bearded Hipster (local rye whiskey, Fernet-Branca, green Chartreuse) are a self-conscious nod to the milieu.

52 High St., Camden. www.pigandpoetmaine.com.  207/236-3391. Entrees $14–$24. Mid-May–Oct Wed–Sun 5–10pm (bar opens at 3pm). Closed Nov–mid-May. Reservations recommended.

Rhumb Line SEAFOOD   Way-fresh seafood served at picnic tables, right on the dock, in a building shared with a boatbuilder and overlooking the harbor. No place filled with so many yachties should feel this welcoming and unpretentious, and yet Rhumb Line does. There’s some indoor seating too, but it has to be blowing pretty hard outside for that to be more appealing. Go fancy with gorgeously plated oysters or chilled lobster off the raw bar, or else make like the dockworkers and dig into a basket of perfectly fried whole belly clams, a terrific lobster roll, blackened haddock tacos, and other coastal proletarian faves.

59 Sea St., Camden. www.rhumblinecamden.com.  207/230-8495. Raw bar $12–$19; baskets and entrees $12–$26. Mid-May–mid-Oct Wed–Mon 11:30am–9:30pm. Closed rest of year.

Waterfront ECLECTIC   It’s not the most glamorous place to dine in greater Camden, but that might be why locals like to lunch here so much. That and the view. The wide deck out back is maybe the best al fresco dining on the midcoast, with the waves lapping at pilings right beneath you and the green hump of Mount Battie looming behind. Find a little bit of everything on the menu, from steaks to a chicken enchilada to really nicely executed Maine seafood classics. I highly recommend the mussels in white wine appetizer, and all the salads are substantial enough to be meals. Service is unfussy, and there’s certainly no dress code.

48 Bayview St., Camden. www.waterfrontcamden.com.  207/236-3747. Lunch entrees $10–$18; dinner entrees $14–$30. Daily 11:30am–9pm.

Exploring Camden

The best way to enjoy Camden is to park your car—which may require driving a block or two off U.S. Route 1, which unfortunately runs right up through the center of town. The village is of a perfect scale to explore on foot, with plenty of boutiques and galleries. Don’t miss the hidden town park (look behind the library on upper Main Street and Atlantic Avenue): It was designed by none other than the firm of Frederick Law Olmsted, the famed landscape architect who designed New York City’s Central Park. It’s a good spot for a picnic: grassy, ideal for people-watching, and possessed of outstanding bay views.

The Camden-Rockport Historical Society has prepared a 9-mile bike or car tour with brief descriptions of some of the historic properties around the two adjacent towns. The brochure describing the tour is free; check for it at the Penobscot Bay Chamber visitor center (see p. 155). The brochure also includes a 2-mile walking tour of downtown Camden.

Camden Hills State Park ( 207/236-3109), about a mile north of the village center on Route 1, covers 6,500 acres that ranges from an seaside lower section to an upper section with fine bay views. There’s an oceanside picnic area, camping at 107 sites (see p. 160), a variety of well-marked hiking trails, and a winding toll road up 800-foot Mount Battie with spectacular views from the summit. The day-use fee is $6 for non-Maine resident adults, $2 for nonresident seniors, and $1 for children ages 5 to 11. The fee’s only charged mid-May to mid-October.

Wonderful walks

If hikes and mild heights don’t bother you, I definitely recommend an ascent to the ledges of Mount Megunticook in Camden Hills State Park. The best time for this hike is early in the morning, before the crowds have amassed (and while mists still linger in the valleys). Leave from near the park’s campground—the trail head is clearly marked—and follow the well-maintained path to open ledges. The hike takes only 30 to 45 minutes; spectacular views of the harbor await, plus glimpses of smaller hills and valleys. Depending on your stamina level, you can keep walking on the park’s trail network to Mount Battie, or into lesser-traveled woodlands on the east side of the Camden Hills.

On the Water

Several sailing ships make Camden their home base, and it’s a rare treat to come and go from this harbor, which is considered by many to be the most beautiful in the state.

The 57-foot windjammer Surprise (www.schoonersurprise.com), first launched in 1918, has been based in Camden Harbor for decades now. Captain and First Mate Ramiro and Nicole de Acevedo Ramos take a maximum of 18 passengers on 2-hour, nonsmoking sailing trips from the town’s Public Landing. Four daytime excursions ($43 adults, $33 children under 12) are offered daily from mid-June to mid-August, and three are run daily in May, and from mid-August through mid-October. There are sunset and full moon trips too, both with homemade desserts and acoustic music. Reserve ahead online, or else show up at the ticket table on the waterfront and cross your fingers for a cancellation.

Modeled after the Gloucester fishing schooners of the late 19th century, the Schooner Lazy Jack II (www.schoonerlazyjack.com;  207/230-0602) has been plying the waters since 1947. The ship goes out on four 2-hour cruises per day on weekends from May through mid-September, then three per day through October. The tours cost $40 per adult, $27 per child under age 12; BYO wine, beer, and snacks.

For a more intimate view of the harbor, Maine Sport Outfitters (www.mainesport.com;  800/722-0826 or 207/236-8797) daily offers three sea-kayaking tours of Camden’s scenic harbor, from June through August (but no tours Mondays in June); the tour lasts 2 hours, costs $40 for adults ($35 for children 10–15), and takes paddlers out to Curtis Island at the outer edge of the harbor. It’s an easy, delightful way to get a taste of the area’s maritime culture. On Tuesdays in midsummer, for a little more money ($85 adults, $75 kids) and effort, you can take the same trip on a stand-up paddleboard (and if you’d like to avoid busy Camden harbor, there’s also a 2½-hour stand-up paddleboard tour of Lake Megunticook, just west of town). Longer trips and instruction are also available. The shop, located on Route 1 in Rockport (a few minutes’ drive south of Camden), has a great selection of outdoor gear and is worth a stop if you’re gearing up for some local adventures or heading up to Acadia next. Sign up for the tours either at the store or at the Camden boathouse, which is located at the head of the harbor near the town park.

Sports & Outdoor Activities Around Camden

Biking   The Camden area is great for exploring by bike. A nice loop several miles long takes you from Camden into the cute little village of Rockport (see p. 164), which has an equally scenic harbor and fewer tourists. Bike rentals, maps, and riding advice are available in town at Maine Sport Outfitters on Route 1 in Rockport (www.mainesport.com;  888/236-8797 or 207/236-7120). They’re open year-round.

golf   The golf course at the Samoset Resort, just west of Camden in Rockport (www.samoset.com;  800/341-1650 or 207/594-2511) is among the state’s most dramatically scenic and challenging. It’s also among the priciest, with greens fees running as high as $145 during peak season—if you can get a reservation. Six of the 18 holes literally hug the lapping edge of Penobscot Bay (don’t shank one here!), and the place has got history: It dates from 1902. The course is hard enough as it is, but things become even more challenging once you hit the shifting sea breezes (worst in the afternoon, believe me). There’s a golf school here, with lessons available. Remember that this is a championship-caliber course and it gets busy in peak season, so reserve ahead. Serious golfers will want to play it at least once, but beginners may feel intimidated.

Hiking   A good destination for hilly coastal hiking is Camden Hills State Park, on the west shore of Penobscot Bay. Fifty Hikes in Southern and Coastal Maine, by John Gibson (The Countryman Press, 2016), is a reliable directory to trails in the Camden Hills area. L.L. Bean’s Outdoor Discovery Schools (www.llbean.com;  888/270-2326) offers weeklong guided hiking adventures along the midcoast, with days spent wandering the Camden Hills and Acadia National Park, evenings spent lounging at local inns, with the occasional wine tasting thrown in for good measure.

Skiing   The only ski mountain of any significance along the coast is the Camden Snow Bowl (www.camdensnowbowl.com;  207/236-3438), just outside of town on Hosmer’s Pond Road. This small, family-oriented ski area has a handful of trails and a modest vertical drop of 950 feet (full-day lift tickets cost $33–$43), but it’s the rare opportunity to downhill ski within sight of the ocean. Maybe best of all, it also has an exhilarating toboggan run , open weekends only. Toboggans are available for rent, or you can bring your own; it’s $10 per person per hour if you rent, $5 with your own ride to zip down the slope. If you’d like to detour inland a bit for some higher slopes, get a pamphlet with basic information about Maine skiing from the Ski Maine Association (www.skimaine.com;  207/773-7669). The association’s website also offers up-to-date reports on ski conditions during the winter.

A Side Trip to Rockport

Rockport is absolutely worth a few hours during any trip to Camden. Try this route, either by bike or by car: Take Bayview Street from the center of Camden out along the bay, passing by opulent seaside estates. The road soon narrows and becomes quiet and pastoral, overarched by leafy trees. At the stop sign just past the cemetery, turn left and continue into Rockport. (Along the way, you might pass happily grazing cows.)

In Rockport, stroll downstairs to the water and snoop around the historic harbor , with its walking trail and outstanding photo opportunities. There’s a scenic public park by the boat landing with a great view of the boats in the harbor. (Check out the knockout, eclectic food truck Fox on the Run , which is known for its Cuban sandwiches and fish tacos). Walker Park and Mary Lea Park, just uphill, also offer grassy expanses and nice views.

Then re-mount the hill and drop by the Peter Ralson Gallery, 23 Central Street (www.ralstongallery.com;  207/230-7225), a small gallery showing the work (often coastal in nature) of one of Maine’s most accomplished living photographers. When you’re through, cross the street and grab some oysters and one of the delicious, esoteric cocktails at 18 Central (you can guess the address, www.18central.com;  207/466-9055). Try the Small Craft Advisory cocktail, a daily special which the bartender dreams up each day based on the marine weather report.

Belfast to Bucksport

Belfast is 18 miles N of Camden; Bucksport is 19 miles NE of Belfast

The northerly stretch of Penobscot Bay is rich in history, especially maritime history. In the mid–19th century, Belfast and Searsport produced more than their share of ships, along with the captains to pilot them on trading ventures around the globe. In 1856 alone, 24 ships of more than 1,000 tons were launched from Belfast. The now-sleepy village of Searsport once had 17 active shipyards, which turned out some 200 ships over the years.

When shipbuilding died out, the Belfast area was sustained by a thriving poultry industry, and after that left, credit card giant MBNA ushered in a white-collar shift and a huge economic boost. Alas, they’ve all moved on, but the legacy of each era—along with that of the crunchy back-to-the-landers who found cheap property nearby around the turn of the 1970s—combine into the funky stew that is modern-day Belfast.

These days, the town’s alive with artisans and entrepreneurs of various stripes who’ve set up shop downtown. Boatbuilding is big again, and the city has invested in its riverfront, cleaning up the mess of the poultry area (imagine a river slick with chicken grease) and putting in terrific stretch of parks and trail. Tourists tend to pass through the region quickly, en route from the tourist enclave of Camden (p. 154) to the tourist enclave of Bar Harbor (p. 207), but Mainers know it as one of Maine’s hippest little coastal towns. Well worth slowing down for.

Essentials

arriving

Route 1 connects Belfast, Searsport, and Bucksport.

Visitor Information

The Belfast Area Chamber of Commerce (www.belfastmaine.org;  207/338-5900), staffs an information booth at 15 Main Street, near the waterfront park, that’s open daily from June through September, Monday to Friday 10am to 4pm.

Where to Stay in Belfast

If you’re stuck for a bed along this stretch of the coast and don’t mind the chain-hotel ambience for a night, the Fireside Inn & Suites, 159 Searsport Ave. (U.S. 1) (www.belfastmainehotel.com;  207/338-2090), is a very good backup option. Some rooms have kitchenettes and/or whirlpools; there’s a pool; a small breakfast is served; and some rooms come with sublime views of the bay (if there’s no fog, that is). However, check as soon as possible—the place sometimes fills up early. High season double rooms run from $145 to $219 per night; suites are more expensive.

The Jeweled Turrett Inn    A hotshot attorney built this Victorian grand dame in 1898, and it’s been hosting guests since the ’80s. Interested in history? Because this place is full of it. Like, literally, chock full of antiques and 19th-century bric-a-brac and running out of space on some walls to hang old photos and paintings. The shared den downstairs is centered on a huge, gnarly fireplace said to have been built with stone from every state in the union (there were only 45 states in 1898, but still). Guest rooms are classic B&B style: Expect four-poster beds, lots of lace and wicker, antique mahogany, the works. All have private bathrooms. Not one, but two breezy verandas wrap around the house, spots to unwind with an iced tea or a lemonade (served in the afternoon on hot days).

40 Pearl St., Belfast. www.jeweledturret.com.  888/696-2304 or 207/338-2304. 7 units. $129–$179 double. Rates include full breakfast. 2-night minimum on weekends July–mid-Oct. Amenities: Free Wi-Fi.

Where to Eat in Belfast

Anchoring the Belfast waterfront, the locals’ favorite pub three tides (2 Pinchy Lane; www.3tides.com;  207/338-1707) sits right next to the boats—walk all the way to the end of Main Street. The bar menu is eclectic—quesadillas, salads, panini, local oysters, and mussels—but the real draw is a huge list of beers from Marshall Wharf Brewing Company next door, known for “big” beers not subtle on flavor or low on ABV (if you’re there in fall, try the oyster stout, a meal of a beer brewed with ten dozen live oysters in every batch). The outdoor deck is a good spot to relax while the sun goes down.

Chase’s Daily Restaurant VEGETARIAN   This place is special. A vegetarian restaurant that doesn’t make any point at all of being virtuous or preachy, Chase’s was formed by a local farm family (the Chases) with a simple philosophy: Cook superlocal foods, as freshly as possible, based on the things being grown at the farm. It maintains a balance between simple, hearty food and more sophisticated offerings—so good that a line often stretches out the door, even on weekdays, even at lunch. Breakfast (Saturdays only) ranges from oatmeal to breakfast burritos to healthy fruit smoothies; lunch segues nicely into a menu of very popular pizzas, sandwiches, soups, and salads with an emphasis on Asian, Latin American, and European themes. Dinner happens just once a week, on Friday nights, and might feature anything from grilled polenta to Indian food. The whole room is very inviting and light-filled, with wooden floorboards, lots of local art, and a pressed-tin ceiling, and Sunday brunches are highly regarded—you’ll occasionally meet some road-tripping Portland foodies. From June through November or so, there’s a daily farmer’s market in back. Absolutely call ahead about table availability if you’re serious about eating here in high season.

96 Main St., Belfast. www.chasesdaily.me.  207/338-0555. Breakfast/lunch entrees $8–$13, dinner entrees $17–$22. Tues–Thurs 11am–2:30pm; Fri 11am–2:30pm and 5:30–9pm; Sat 7–10am and 11am–2:30pm; Sun 8am–1pm. Reservations accepted for dinner only.

Packing a picnic in Belfast and Searsport

Searsport has an outstanding little pocket park, Mosman Park, just off the hustle of busy Route 1; look for the post office in the center of the village, then walk downhill one block along Water Street to the water. It makes for a great quick picnic, and there’s a pretty good playground—plus bay views—and it’s free. Pick up rudimentary snacking foods and beverages at Tozier’s Market ( 207/548-6220), a convenience store on Route 1 just south of the Maritime Museum. Or if you’re in Belfast, one of Maine’s oldest, biggest, and best natural-foods stores, the Belfast Co-op (www.belfast.coop;  207/338-2532), is at 123 High St. The selection of imported beers and the cuts of organic beef are excellent; the co-op also features a deli. It’s open from 7:30am to 8pm daily.

Darby’s AMERICAN/ECLECTIC   Located in a Civil War–era pub with stamped tin ceilings and a back bar with Corinthian columns, Darby’s is a popular local hangout. You can order a Maine microbrew or a single-malt whiskey while you read the menu, which is more creative than you might expect given the surroundings. The kitchen serves not only bar favorites (burgers on bulky rolls), but also attempts more inventive dishes such as mahogany duck, pad Thai, and big salads; these are hit-or-miss, and nothing is out of this world, but the pubby atmosphere is pretty authentic. Desserts are homemade and basic: think cheesecake, pies, and an interesting “Russian cream.”

155 High St., Belfast.  207/338-2339. Entrees $10–$15 lunch, $11–$23 dinner. Mon–Thurs 11:30am–8:30pm; Fri–Sat 11:30am–9:00pm; Sun 11:30am–8:00pm. Reservations suggested after 7pm.

Meanwhile in Belfast PIZZA   An unexpected ethnic gem, Meanwhile in Belfast serves arguably the best Neapolitan pizza in all of New England (there are plaques on the walls from various magazines and websites attesting to this). Proprietors Alessandro Scelsi and Clementina Senatore were both born and raised in Italy, and they top their wood-fired pies with local meats, produce, and cheeses—even fish, with their go-for-broke frutti di mare pie called The Harbor Master.

2 Cross St., Belfast. www.meanwhile-in-belfast.com.  207/218-1288. Pizzas $10–$20, sandwiches (lunch only) $12–$18, salads $12–$24. Thurs–Fri 4:30–8:30pm; Sat–Mon 11:30am–2:30pm and 4:30–8:30pm.

Seng Thai THAI   Just south of Belfast on Route 1, this is one of many Thai restaurants you’ll be surprised to find as you cruise up and down the Maine coast. It serves up well-spiced classic dishes such as pad Thai and various curries, but also has a uniquely creative take on more upscale fare such as lobster and fish. Top off your meal with a potent Thai tea or coffee.

139 Searsport Ave. (Rte. 1). http://sengthaime.weebly.com.  207/338-0010. Entrees $11–$20. June–Sept Tues–Sun 11am–10pm; Oct–May Tues–Sun 11am–8:30pm.

Young’s Lobster Pound LOBSTER   This is one of my favorite lobster shacks in Maine—although calling it a “shack” might even be a euphemism. Beyond the driveway you’ll find a hangar-size door; fear not, for behind it sits a counter of friendly folks taking your order. Guys in slickers and boots do all the dirty work, plucking lobsters from long lobster tanks gurgling seawater. Eat upstairs, where picnic tables are arrayed in an open, barnlike area, or out on the deck with views across the river to Belfast. Remember: Don’t wear your finest threads, and get lots of napkins. The lobsters, served on paper plates with butter and corn on the cob, are tasty and fairly inexpensive. It’s across the Route 1 bridge from downtown Belfast; after the bridge, look for signs (Mitchell Street is the fourth street on your right—follow the road to the water).

4 Mitchell St. youngslobsterpound.webs.com.  207/338-1160. Lobster prices seasonal. Daily 7:30am–8pm (shorter hours in winter and spring). Reservations not accepted.

Exploring the Belfast/Bucksport Region

When approaching the Belfast area from the south, you can view some splendid historic homes by veering off Route 1 and entering downtown Belfast via High Street (look for the first downtown belfast sign). The Primrose Hill District along High Street was the most fashionable place for prosperous merchants to settle during the early and mid-19th century, and their stately homes reflect an era when stature was equal to both the size of one’s home and the care one took in designing and embellishing it. Downtown Belfast also has some superb examples of historic brick commercial architecture, including the elaborate High Victorian Gothic–style building on Main Street that formerly housed the Belfast National Bank.

Alamo Theater THEATER   In the paper-mill town of Bucksport, the organization Northeast Historic Film was founded in 1986 to preserve and show early films related to New England. In 1992 the group bought Bucksport’s vintage Alamo Theatre, which was built in 1916 and closed (the last showing was Godzilla) in 1956. Films are now shown on weekends in the renovated theater; call or check the group’s website to see what’s coming up—even first-run popcorn flicks usually are accompanied by a few minutes of archival film from the organization’s collection before the show starts. Visitors can also stop by the museum at the front of the theater (open Monday through Friday 9am to 4pm) to browse videos and other items.

85 Main St., Bucksport. www.oldfilm.org.  800/639-1636 or 207/469-0924.

A Hot Museum

If you enjoy kitsch and uniquely American things, on a rainy day in Belfast you could do worse than making the 30-minute detour inland through the hills to little Thorndike to browse through the Bryant Stove Museum (www.bryantstove.com;  207/568-3665), a nothing-if-not-entertaining experience. Joe and Bea Bryant exhibit, refurbish, and sell gorgeous cast-iron woodstoves. But looking these over is only part of the fun: The premises also house a huge selection of vintage dolls, toys, antique cars, player pianos, calliopes, concertinas, and oodles of other musical instruments and mechanical contraptions. Entering the rooms where the goodies are stored is like opening a door into an alternate universe—one presided over by suspender-wearing Joe, who sings lustily along with the pianos while puppets (rigged to the instruments) bob along in time. Get there by taking Waldo Avenue (Route 137) west out of Belfast for about 15 miles, then turning right onto Route 200 and continuing a bit farther onto Stovepipe Alley. Really. A shop attached to the museum is open 8am to 4:30pm Monday to Saturday. Admission is $5 for adults, free for kids 10 and under.

Fort Knox State Park HISTORIC SITE   Across the river from Bucksport and adjacent to the Penobscot Narrows Observatory (see p. 170), this historic granite fort was strategically located at an easily defended narrows in the Penobscot River. Built in the 1840s to defend against possible British naval invasion, the solid and imposing fort was never attacked, although it was manned during the Civil War and Spanish-American War. It’s an impressive edifice to explore, with graceful granite staircases and subterranean chambers that produce wonderful echoes.

740 Fort Knox Rd. (Rte. 174), Prospect. http://fortknox.maineguide.com.  207/469-7719. Admission to park $4.50 adult, $1.50 senior, $1 children 5–11 (park plus observatory $7 adult, $4 senior, $1 children 5–11). May–Oct daily am–sunset; closed Nov–Apr.

Penobscot Marine Museum MUSEUM   The Penobscot Marine Museum is one of the best small museums in New England—and relatively unsung. Housed in a cluster of historic buildings atop a gentle rise in tiny downtown Searsport, the museum does a great job of educating visitors about the vitality of the local shipbuilding industry, the essential role of international trade to daily life in the 19th century, and the hazards of life at sea. Exhibits (such as “The Art of Lobstering”) are uncommonly well organized, and wandering from building to building induces a keen sense of wonderment at the vast enterprise that was Maine’s maritime trade. Also on display is the landscape art of Thomas and James Buttersworth and Robert Salmon. Among the most intriguing exhibits are a wide selection of dramatic marine paintings, black-and-white photographs of many of the 286 weathered sea captains who once called Searsport home, an exquisite collection of scrimshaw, and an early home decorated in the style of a sea captain, complete with lacquered furniture and accessories hauled back from trade missions to the Orient. The museum’s photo archive is also uncommonly rich, with knockout photo exhibits that often veer away from the maritime theme (recent examples on the history of the postcard and Maine’s early women photographers wouldn’t have been out of place at a landlocked institution).

2 Church St. (at corner of U.S. Rte. 1), Searsport. www.penobscotmarinemuseum.org.  207/548-0334. $12 adults, $8 children 8–15, $30 families. Memorial Day–mid-Oct Mon–Sat 10am–5pm; Sun noon–5pm. Last tickets sold at 4pm. Closed rest of year.

Penobscot Narrows Observatory VIEWS   At the northern tip of Penobscot Bay, where the Penobscot River squeezes through a dramatic gorge near Verona Island, Route 1 spans the gorge on an attractive modern suspension bridge, opened in 2006. Sitting high atop one of the bridge’s pylons is the world’s tallest public bridge observatory, perched 437 feet above the river (it’s taller than the Statue of Liberty), offering panoramic views of the mountains, lakes, and even Penobscot Bay downriver. The elevator ride to the glassed-in viewing area takes just 1 minute, and placards help you interpret the landscape features you’re looking at.

Rte. 1, Stockton Springs. www.maine.gov/mdot/pnbo.  207/469-6553. Admission (includes entry to Fort Knox State Park, see p. 169) $7 adults, $4 seniors, $3 children 5–11. Jul–Aug 9am–6pm, May–June and Sept–Oct 9am–5pm. Closed Nov–Apr.

On the Water

If you’d like to explore the northern Penobscot area by water, call Water Walker Sea Kayaks (www.touringkayaks.com;  207/338-6424). Though their shop is a few miles inland, in nearby Monroe, the Water Walker team leads a 2-hour evening tour of the Belfast harbor from the beach near the town dock. Trips cost $35 per person and include snacks and some instruction; they also rent kayaks and stand-up paddleboards, and if you can’t make it to Monroe, they’ll deliver them to your launch of choice for a small fee.

Beaches

Swan Lake State Park ( 207/525-4404), 6 miles north of Belfast, is a worthy beach, albeit a small one, open June through Columbus Day. Admission is $7 per non-Maine resident adult, $2 per nonresident senior, and $1 for children.

Castine & Environs

Quiet little Castine, off the beaten track, must be one of the most gracious villages in Maine. It’s not so much the handsome, meticulously maintained mid-19th-century homes that fill the side streets. Nor is it the location on a quiet peninsula, 16 miles south of tourist-clotted Route 1. No, what lends Castine most of its charm are the splendid, towering elm trees that still overarch many of the village’s streets. Before Dutch elm disease ravaged the nation’s elms, much of America once looked like this. Through perseverance and a measure of good luck, Castine has managed to keep several hundred of its elms alive, and it’s worth the drive here to see them.

But Castine offers more than trees. It’s enduringly quiet, which is probably what you’re seeking in your Maine vacation. And it’s full of history. This outpost served as a strategic town during various battles among the British, Dutch, French, and colonists in the centuries following its settlement in 1613 (yes, 7 years before Plymouth Rock). Castine was occupied by each of those groups at some point; and historical personages such as Miles Standish and Paul Revere passed through town. It was a very important place—strange, because now it seems almost thoroughly forgotten, except for the maritime academy at one end of the village, which still trains young sailors and cadets. Castine still looks and feels as if it has it not changed much since the locals welcomed British soldiers with open arms during the American Revolution.

You’ll have to work (which means drive significant distances) to find much nightlife or dining, but if you like your towns quiet, you’ll love it here.

Essentials

arriving

Castine is 16 miles south of U.S. Route 1. Turn south on Route 175 in Orland (east of Bucksport) and follow it to Route 166, which winds its way to Castine. Route 166A offers another, alternate route along Penobscot Bay.

Visitor Information

For phone inquiries, try the town office (www.visitcastine.com;  207/326-4502), where clerkes are often helpful with local information. (Don’t abuse this privilege, though, since they have actual work to do running the town.) The town office is normally open weekdays from 11am to 3pm. Volunteers staff a postage-stamp visitor center at the entrance to the harbor, on the corner of Water St. and Main St., open Mon–Sat from 10am to 4pm, Sun noon–4pm from Memorial Day weekend until the end of September. For wider regional inquiries, the Blue Hill Peninsula Chamber of Commerce (see p. 180) can also help you.

Where to Stay in Castine

Castine Inn    The Castine Inn is a Maine rarity: a hotel with historic cred that was originally built as a hotel, not a private residence. The handsome, cream-colored inn, designed in an eclectic Georgian Federal Revival style and built in 1898, has a great wraparound porch and attractive gardens. The lobby is filled with wingback chairs, love seats, and a fireplace in the parlor. Guest rooms on the two upper floors are attractively (though sometimes unevenly) furnished in Early American style with graceful prints, pastel walls, pencil-poster beds, and sofas; three suites have views of the inn’s well-kept gardens.

41 Main St., Castine. www.castineinn.com  207/326-4365. 19 units. June–Oct $120–$245 double and suite; rates lower Nov–May. Rates include continental breakfast. 2-night minimum July–Aug. May, open weekends only; closed mid-Oct–Apr. Children 8 and older are welcome. Amenities: Dining room; sauna; free Wi-Fi.

Pentagöet Inn    At the Pentagöet, “activities” consist of sitting on the wraparound front porch on cane-seated rockers watching the everyday goings-on along Main Street. This quirky, yellow-and-green (ca. 1894) inn with the prominent turret is tastefully, sturdily built. The lobby features hardwood floors, oval braided rugs, and a woodstove; it’s all comfortable without being prissy, professional without being chilly. Most units sport king-size beds with heavy, ornate headboards and lacy white coverlets—some have claw-foot bathtubs and/or fireplaces, and one even includes a balcony with flowers. Rooms on the upper two floors of the main house are furnished eclectically in a mix of antiques and collectibles, as are five units in the adjacent Perkins Street building (an austere, Federal-era house), where the recently revamped bathrooms are all done up in marble. Quite a collection of ornate wooden headboards in this place. The pub (charmingly decorated with the globetrotter bric-a-brac of a Victorian-era chevalier) and the offerings in the dining room are both excellent.

26 Main St., Castine. www.pentagoet.com.  207/326-8616. 16 units (2 with private hallway bathrooms). May–Oct $135–$295 double. Rates include full breakfast. Closed Nov–Apr. Some rooms accommodate pets (by reservation only, $25 fee). Suitable for older children only. Amenities: Dining room; pub; bikes; free Wi-Fi

Where to Eat in Castine

Dennett’s Wharf SEAFOOD   In a soaring waterfront sail loft with dollar bills tacked all over the high ceiling, Dennett’s Wharf serves upscale bar food in a lively setting leavened by a good selection of microbrews. This is a quintessential Maine fishing-village experience. When the weather is decent, there’s outside dining beneath a bright (really bright) yellow awning with superb harbor views. It’s all about pub grub and seafood here. Look for sandwiches, salads, and fried clams at lunch; dinner includes local lobsters, baby back ribs, pad Thai, and hanger steak. An oyster bar serves oysters on the half-shell. But, say, how did all those bills get on the ceiling, anyway? Ask your server; it will cost you exactly $1 to find out.

15 Sea St. (next to the town dock), Castine. www.dennettswharf.net.  207/326-9045. Reservations recommended in summer and for parties of 6 or more. Lunch items $10–$18; dinner items $14–$29. Daily 11am–9pm (bar open later). Closed Nov–Apr.

Dudley’s Refresher SEAFOOD/BURGERS   The playful folks who own Mexican restaurant El El Frijoles (get it? L.L. Bean) down the road in Sargentville (also worth a stop) opened this equally playfood take-out seafood shack on the Castine town dock in 2015. Chef Kara van Emmerik makes a fish and chips—in the British style, with smashed peas and all—that’s worth a drive up the coast for. The lobster roll’s a winner too, with freshly picked meat and the option of an adventurous curried mayo. Everything’s made from scratch, so the wait might be a bit longer than you expect from a no-frills waterfront stand; it’s worth it. Locally churned ice cream seals the deal.

5 Sea St. (next to the town dock), Castine. www.dudleysrefresher.com.  207/812-3800. Sandwiches and baskets $3–$15. Tues–Sun 11am–7pm. Closed Labor Day–Memorial Day.

Exploring Castine

A seaside hamlet with stately brick architecture and elm shady streets, Castine is a quiet town that attracts visitors looking for a bit of colonial history (the town once marked the southern boundary of the French province of Acadia) or a lunch stop while exploring the pastoral Blue Hill peninsula. On the western edge of the village, you’ll find the campus of the Maine Maritime Academy ( 207/326-4311), which trains sailors for the rigors of life at sea with the merchant marine. The academy’s 500-foot T.S. (for Training Ship) State of Maine , a hulking black-and-white vessel, is often docked here, all but overwhelming the village. (It’s off cruising to places such as Odessa, Germany, and Gibraltar when it’s not here.) You can call to schedule a free half-hour tour of the ship, offered on summer weekdays whenever the ship is in port.

Wilson Museum & John Perkins House MUSEUM/HISTORIC HOME   One of Castine’s more intriguing attractions is this appealing and quirky anthropological museum constructed in 1921 to display the collections of John Howard Wilson, an archaeologist and collector of prehistoric artifacts from around the globe. His gleanings are neatly arranged in a staid, classical arrangement of the sort that proliferated in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Next door, but open only 2 afternoons a week and only in summer, the affiliated John Perkins House is Castine’s oldest home. It was occupied by the British during the Revolution and the War of 1812; a guided tour features demonstrations of old-fashioned cooking techniques. Two additional attractions in the Wilson-Perkins complex (it’s almost like a little historical campus, really) include a cool blacksmith shop and the Hearse House (where sleighlike wooden hearses of old were made, and are now archived). Both are free to tour and worth a quick look; just remember, both buildings have the same limited hours—2 days a week in summer, for 3 hours each—as the Perkins House does.

120 Perkins St., Castine. www.wilsonmuseum.org.  207/326-9247. Museum admission free; Perkins House tour $5. Museum open late May–late Sept Mon–Fri 10am–5pm, Sat–Sun 2–5pm; closed rest of year. Perkins House and other bldgs. open only Jul–Aug Wed & Sun 2–5pm.

On the Water

This is a lovely open harbor, with open land and forest edging the watery expanse. Castine Kayak Adventures (www.castinekayak.com;  207/866-3506) offers full- ($110) and half-day ($55) sea kayak tours departing from Dennett’s Wharf restaurant. Both trips are appropriate for those without experience; a brief intro will get you started with this graceful and often meditative sport. You’ll often spot wildlife, such as bald eagles, harbor seals, and ospreys.

A Side Trip to Cape Rosier

Across the Bagaduce River from Castine, Cape Rosier is one of Maine’s best-kept secrets. As a dead-end peninsula, it has no through traffic, and roads suddenly turn to dirt in sections. The cape still has a wild, unkempt flavor with salty views of Penobscot Bay; it’s not hard to imagine that you’re back in 1940s Maine.

The bad news is, to reach the cape from downtown Castine you need to backtrack to Route 175 (take Route 166 to Route 199), head south toward Deer Isle, and then follow Route 176 to the turnoff for Cape Rosier—about 18 miles of driving to cross 1 mile of water. Follow Route 176 to West Brooksville, then take Cape Rosier Road to Goose Falls. A loop of 15 miles or so circles around the cape from here; it’s suitable for travel by mountain bike or as a leisurely car trip.

The views are uncommonly beautiful, with a mix of blueberry barrens, boreal forest, farmsteads, summer estate houses, and coves dotted with yachts and lobster boats. There’s virtually no commercial development of any sort. It’s no accident that Helen and Scott Nearing, the late back-to-the-land gurus and authors of Living the Good Life, chose to settle here when Vermont became too developed for their tastes. A number of Nearing acolytes continue to live on Cape Rosier.

If the weather’s agreeable, stop for a walk on the state-owned Holbrook Island Wildlife Sanctuary, a 1,200-acre preserve laced with trails and abandoned roads. The sanctuary is located at the northern end of the cape (look for signs). Among the choices: The Backshore Trail passes along open meadows to the shoreline, and the Summit Trail is all mossy, mushroomy, and medieval, with teasing glimpses of the water from the top

On your way back, stay on Route 176 a couple of miles past the Route 175 turn-off, to visit the lively taproom at Strong Brewing Company (www.strongbrewing.com;  207/359-8722) at the intersection of Routes 176 and 15, on the east side of the Bagaduce River. This is a community-supported brewery (fans buy shares, like a grocery CSA), and when the weather’s nice, the community fills up the picnic tables and loiters around the firepit outside. There’s often live music on summer Friday nights, and sometimes there’s a noodle cart for noshing too. It’s an easy half-hour’s drive back to Castine from here.

Deer Isle

The island known as Deer Isle is well off the beaten path, yet worth the long detour from Route 1. Looping, winding roads cross through forest and farmland, and travelers are rewarded with sudden glimpses of hidden coves. An occasional settlement even crops up now and again. This island doesn’t cater exclusively to tourists the way many coastal towns and islands do; it’s still largely occupied by fifth- or sixth-generation fishermen, farmers, second-home owners, and artists who prize their seclusion here.

The main village—Stonington, on the island’s southern tip—is still a rough-hewn sea town. Despite serious incursions over the past 10 years by galleries and enterprises partly or wholly dependent on tourism, it remains dominated in spirit by fishermen. This village does now have a handful of inns and galleries, but its primary focus is to serve locals and summer residents, not travelers. Outside magazine once named this one of America’s 10 best towns to live in if you’re an extreme/outdoorsy type. Um . . . sure, if you don’t mind living several hours removed from the nearest significant population centers and airports in Maine. Still, you could pick a worse place to avoid civilization, and the mailboat that runs visitors out to Isle au Haut, an island outpost of Acadia National Park, helps boost Stonington’s outdoorsy cred.

Essentials

arriving

Deer Isle is accessible via several winding country roads that split off of U.S. Route 1. Coming from the south or west (Portland or Camden), turn onto Route 175 in Orland, then connect to Route 15 and continue to Deer Isle. From the east (that is, Bar Harbor), head south on Route 172 to Blue Hill (see p. 180), where you can also pick up Route 15. Deer Isle is connected to the mainland via a high, narrow, and graceful suspension bridge built in 1938—still a bit harrowing to cross in high winds. The bridge connects to Little Deer Isle; from there it’s a short drive over a causeway to the main island.

Visitor Information

The Deer Isle–Stonington Chamber of Commerce (www.deerislemaine.com;  207/348-6124), staffs a seasonal information booth just beyond the bridge on Little Deer Isle. The booth is normally open daily from May through October, its opening hours dependent on volunteer availability.

Where to Stay Around Deer Isle

Inn on the Harbor    This appealingly quirky waterfront inn has the best location in town—perched over Stonington harbor and right on the main street. The furniture’s a little on the dated side, but comfy anyway—big overstuffed grandma chairs—and more than half of the guest rooms overlook the harbor. The more inexpensive rooms are a bargain, in or out of season: This is a good spot for resting up before or after a kayak expedition, or as a base for day trips out to Isle au Haut. All units have in-room phones (cell service in Stonington can be spotty); the recently updated American Eagle Suite, the most expensive unit, has a glass-fronted woodstove, private kitchen, and private deck.

45 Main St. Stonington. www.innontheharbor.com.  800/942-2420 or 207/367-2420. 13 units. June–early Nov $170–$275 double and suite; early Nov–May $100–$210 double and suite. High season rates include continental breakfast. Children 12 and older welcome. Amenities: Spa services; free Wi-Fi.

Oakland House Cottages    It doesn’t get much more Maine than this: Although much-beloved fourth-generation innkeeper Jim Littlefield passed away in 2010, his wife, Sally, continues to run Oakland House as it’s been run for generations. Jim’s great-grandfather was the original owner, a sea captain who opened the inn in 1889 on land acquired from King George. (The original sign remains.) On the mainland just north of the bridge to Deer Isle, it’s a classic coastal summer resort big on quiet and closeness to nature. The simple, wonderfully relaxing 10 cottages dotting the property are tucked among 50 acres of shoreline with extraordinary views of Eggemoggin Reach. Cottages have one to two bedrooms each and are of varying vintages—most have fireplaces (wood is delivered); televisions or phones; and a variety of other amenities, from kitchenettes to claw-foot tubs. Wood-paneled Lone Pine, the most expensive unit, is a nature writer’s dream: it’s set into the hillside, with a stone fireplace and an outstanding view of the reach. Crow’s Nest feels like the top of the world and has a similar view. If you’re on a real budget, the resort added a hostel building a few years ago, with private rooms and shared everything else ($40–$85 a night). There are few amenities: no pool, dining room, or business center: just slow Wi-Fi (sufficient for checking email), some hiking trails, a beach, and those great views.

435 Herrick Rd., Brooksville. www.oaklandhouse.com.  800/359-7352 or 207/359-8521. 10 units. Early July–early Sept $165–$397 cottage; cheaper in the early and late season; weekly rates are discounted. Closed mid-Oct–late April; no housekeeping or wood-delivery service before mid-June or after Labor Day. Packages available. Some cottages accommodate dogs ($10/day fee). Amenities: Beach; hiking trails; kayak rental; free Wi-Fi.

Pilgrim’s Inn    Set just off a town road and between an open bay and a mill pond, this is a historic, handsomely renovated inn. The inn was built in the mid-island town of Deer Isle in 1793 by Ignatius Haskell, a prosperous sawmill owner. His granddaughter opened the home to boarders, and it has housed summer guests ever since. The interior is tastefully decorated in a style that’s informed by Early Americana but not beholden to it. The guest rooms are well appointed with antiques and decorated in muted colonial colors; expect lots of white, a little bit of lace, and subdued flowery prints. Especially intriguing are rooms on the top floor, showing off some impressive diagonal beams. Other accents include private staircases, cherry beds, antique tubs, gas-burning stoves, and fireplaces; breakfasts are big and fancy, running to goat-cheese pancakes, eggs Benedict, smoked salmon, and the like. Three cottages near the main building allow pets and have kitchenettes for fixing your own meals. If you’re not up for that, the inn also maintains a tavern-style dining room with several intriguing spaces, the Whale’s Rib; expect steaks, fish, lobsters, and rack of lamb.

20 Main St., Deer Isle. www.pilgrimsinn.com.  888/778-7505 or 207/348-6615. 15 units. $139–$229 double; $209–$269 cottage. Rates include full breakfast. Closed mid-Oct–mid-May. Pets allowed in cottages only ($25 fee). Children 10 and older welcome in inn, all children welcome in cottages. Packages available. Amenities: Restaurant; pub; library; bikes; free Wi-Fi.

Where to Eat Around Deer Isle

Aragosta NEW AMERICAN/SEAFOOD   Chef Devin Finigan has worked alongside some of the best names in contemporary American cooking—Thomas Keller, Michael Leviton, and fellow Mainer Melissa Kelly, among them—so she brings a pedigree to Stonington’s white-tablecloth dining mecca. Aragosta goes in big for the farm-to-table ethos: The beef and the bacon on the burger were raised locally, the oysters come out of the Bagaduce, the produce (most of it) was farmed nearby, and obviously the aragostas (that’s “lobster” in Italian) were pulled in a few dozen yards outside the front door. Fancy as the weekly changing menu is, the cedar-shingled Aragosta maintains charmingly rustic touches, from the wide-plank wood flooring to the wooden menu covers. Sit outside on the small deck, and you can hear the chatter of the lobstermen as the offload what may become your dinner. Hours seem to get reassessed with each year and each season, so call ahead.

27 Main St., Stonington.  207/367-5500. Lunch entrees $12–$17; dinner entrees $25–$30. Memorial Day–Columbus Day 11am–2pm and 5–8pm; closed Columbus Day–Thanksgiving; dinner only and weekends only Thanksgiving–Memorial Day. Hours/seasons prone to change. Reservations recommended peak season and weekends.

Fisherman’s Friend SEAFOOD   On a dock near the Isle au Haut ferry and attached to a general store, this is family dining: broiled and fried fresh fish, plus some creative uses of lobsters (try the linguini). There’s also a wine list and a choice of pastas. This is a local-eats place, lively and boisterous, usually as crowded as it is unpretentious. Try ordering a bowl of the lobster stew, brimming with chunks; travelers have been known to find reasons to linger in Stonington longer just to indulge in a second bowl. Dessert selections, which include such local specialties as berry pie and shortcake, are extensive and traditional New England–style.

5 Atlantic Ave. (on the dock), Stonington.  207/367-2442. Lobsters market priced; lunch entrees $11–$16; dinner entrees $11–$26. May–Oct daily 11am–8pm; closed Nov–Apr. Reservations recommended peak season and weekends.

Exploring Deer Isle

Deer Isle, with its network of narrow roads to nowhere, is ideal for rambling. It’s a pleasure to explore by car and is also inviting to travel by bike, although hasty and careening fishermen in pickups can make this unnerving at times. Especially tranquil is the narrow road between the town of Deer Isle and Sunshine to the east. Plan to stop and explore coves and inlets along the way. To get here, follow Route 15; south of Deer Isle, turn east toward Stinson Neck, continuing on this scenic byway for about 10 miles over bridges and causeways.

Stonington , at the southern end of Deer Isle, consists of one commercial street that wraps along the harbor’s edge. While B&Bs and boutiques have made inroads here in recent years, it’s still a slightly rough-and-tumble waterfront town with some attractive white-clapboard homes mixed in. The best thing to see here is, well, Main Street and the waterfront behind it. Walk down side streets like Seabreeze Avenue and Atlantic Avenue for a closer look at the town.

Full Speed Ahead!

Worth noting: Stonington is one of those Maine fishing villages that hosts big-time lobster-boat racing. (There are also races in Searsport and Rockland.) Stonington’s race usually occurs on a weekend in early July—drop by if you’re in the area. Crowds line the waterfront and piers to cheer on their favorites. You’ll either be amazed or horrified by how quickly one of these diesel-powered workhorses can get up to speed when the captain’s going full throttle.

The town opera house is home to a very good summer-stock theater company called Opera House Arts ; log on to www.operahousearts.org for a schedule and other details or call them at  207/367-2788. The Opera House also hosts art events and first-run Hollywood movies.

On the Water

Peer southward from Stonington, and you’ll see dozens of spruce-studded islands between the mainland and the dark, distant ridges of Isle au Haut. These islands, ringed with salmon-pink granite, are collectively called Merchant’s Row, and they’re invariably ranked by experienced coastal boaters as among the most beautiful in the state. Thanks to these exceptional islands, Stonington is among Maine’s most popular destinations for sea kayaking. Many of the islands are open to day visitors and overnight camping, and one of the Nature Conservancy islands even hosts a flock of sheep. Experienced kayakers should contact the Maine Island Trail Association (www.mita.org;  207/761-8225) for more information about paddling here; several of the islands are open only to association members.

Old Quarry Ocean Adventures (www.oldquarry.com;  207/367-8977), just outside the village of Stonington, offers guided kayak tours as well as kayaks for rent. (Old Quarry will rent only to those with prior experience, so it’s best to call ahead to discuss your needs.) Tours range from a half-day tour ($64) to a full-day 7-hour tour ($133) that weaves out through the islands and includes a stop for a swim or a picnic at an abandoned quarry. Overnight camping trips are also offered. Other services: parking and a launch site for those who’ve brought their own boats, sailboat tours and lessons, hourly shuttles to Green Island (which has trails and an old quarry swimming hole; $31) charter tours aboard a 38-foot lobster boat, and camping ($41–$61 per tent site, $43 for RVs). For more information, visit the company’s website.

Outfitters based outside the region that offer guided overnight kayak trips around Merchant’s Row include the Maine Island Kayak Co. (www.maineislandkayak.com;  207/766-2373) on Peaks Island (near Portland) and Maine Sport Outfitters (www.mainesport.com;  800/722-0826 or 207/236-8797) on Route 1 in Rockport.

A Side Trip to Isle Au Haut

Rocky and remote Isle au Haut offers one of the most unusual hiking and camping experiences in northern New England. This 6×3-mile island, located 6 miles south of Stonington, was originally named Isle Haut (or High Island) in 1604 by French explorer Samuel de Champlain. The name and its pronunciation evolved—today it’s generally pronounced Aisle-a-ho—but the island itself has remained steadfastly unchanged over the centuries.

About half of the island is owned by the National Park Service and maintained as an outpost of Acadia National Park (see chapter 9). A 60-passenger ferry from Deer Isle, run by the Isle au Haut Boat Company (see below), makes a stop in the morning and late afternoon at Duck Harbor, allowing for a solid day of hiking while still returning to Stonington by nightfall.

Note: The ferry stops at two different landings. Most of the time, they stop at the “town landing”—convenient for groceries, but a 4-mile, 2-hour hike through the island’s woods along the Duck Harbor Trail to the only campsite (see below). During summer, usually twice a day, special boats run directly to the Duck Harbor landing, an easy few minutes’ walk to the sites. I cannot stress enough: Check first where your ferry is going if you are not ready or able to walk 4 miles twice. The small harborside village, which has a few old homes, a handsome church, and a tiny schoolhouse, post office, and store, is interesting, but campers and most day-trippers are better served ferrying straight to Duck Harbor.

At Duck Harbor, the NPS maintains its cluster of five Adirondack-style lean-tos, which are available for overnight camping ; cost is $25 per site, and they can be used up to 3 nights in a row (5 nights outside high season). A maximum of six campers can use each site, and there are no showers or electricity; there’s a water pump about 1⁄3 mile away. These sites fill up fast, and advance reservations are essential (due by April 1 of the year you want to visit, though occasional cancellations merit checking afterward anyway). Contact Acadia National Park, Eagle Lake Road (P.O. Box 177), Bar Harbor, ME 04609; call  207/288-3338 or download a reservation form at www.nps.gov/acad/planyourvisit/duckharbor.htm. Other than for camping, the park doesn’t charge a fee to explore its island holdings.

Who lives here? The island is partly inhabited by some fishermen who can trace their island ancestry back 3 centuries, and partly by summer visitors whose forebears discovered the bucolic splendor of Isle au Haut in the 1880s. The summer population of the island is about 300, with about 50 die-hards remaining year-round. (One resident is writer Linda Greenlaw, the former fishing-boat captain profiled in the book and movie The Perfect Storm; she has also written her own book, The Lobster Chronicles, as well as a cookbook of recipes from the island.)

You can stroll the only-partly-paved main road that circles the island, but many hardy visitors choose to explore the excellent island trails that penetrate and encircle the isle. Some of the more scenic ones include Western Head Trail (requiring perhaps 11⁄4 hour one-way) and Cliff Trail (about 45 minutes one-way), with expansive cliff and sea views. The NPS can furnish you with a trail map at the campground, and rangers sometimes ride the ferries. Be careful, however: Some of these trails are rough on the feet, and they can get wet from the sea, fog, or rain; rain, in fact, may render a few (such as Goat Trail) impassable at times.

The Isle au Haut Boat Company (www.isleauhaut.com;  207/367-5193) operates the ferry run, leaving from the pier at the end of Sea Breeze Avenue in Stonington. In summer (roughly mid-June to mid-September), there are three to five daily runs to the island, with four to six runs in spring and fall; call or check the website for exact schedules. The round-trip boat fare to either the town landing or Duck Harbor is $39 for adults and $19.50 for children 11 and under. (There’s also a small extra surcharge if you pay by credit card.) Bikes cost $22 round-trip, kayaks $46. The crossing takes about 45 minutes to the village landing, or 1 hour and 15 minutes to Duck Harbor. Reservations are not accepted; it’s best to arrive at least a half-hour before departure.

Blue Hill

In contrast to the western shores of Penobscot Bay, the Blue Hill peninsula attracts far fewer tourists and has much more of a lost-in-time, Maine-as-it-was character. The roads here are hilly, winding, and narrow, passing through forests, past old-time saltwater farms, and ticking the edge of a blue inlet here or there.

The town of Blue Hill , population 2,400, is easy to find—just look for the dome of Blue Hill itself, which lords over the northern end of (of course) Blue Hill Bay. Set between the mountain and the bay is the quiet and historic town, clustering along the bay’s shore and a little stream. There’s never much going on here, which seems to be exactly what attracts repeat summer visitors; it might also explain why two excellent bookstores are located in this dot of a town. Many old-money families maintain lovely retreats along the water or in the hills around here, but the village center offers a couple choices for lodging even if you don’t have local connections. It’s a good place for a quiet break.

Essentials

arriving

Blue Hill is southeast of Ellsworth, at the juncture of routes 15 and 172. Coming from the south (Rockland or Belfast) on Route 1/Route 3, turn south onto Route 15 about 5 miles east of Bucksport, and drive about 12 miles. From Bar Harbor, follow Route 3 through Ellsworth, cross the bridge, then follow Route 172 about 14 miles to Blue Hill.

Visitor Information

Blue Hill does not maintain a true staffed visitor information booth. Look for the “Blue Hill, Maine” brochure and map at state information centers, or drop by the Blue Hill Peninsula Chamber of Commerce (www.bluehillpeninsula.org;  207/374-3242), located at 16 South Street. Locals are also often willing to answer questions you might have.

special Events

The Blue Hill Fair (www.bluehillfair.com;  207/374-3701) is a traditional country fair with livestock competitions, vegetable displays, and carnival rides. The fair takes place at the fairgrounds northwest of the village on Route 172 on Labor Day weekend. Admission costs $8 to $10 per person (it varies by day); rides are individually priced. Parking is free on the fairgrounds.

Maine’s Folkiest Radio Station

When in the Blue Hill area, be sure to tune into the local community radio station, WERU, at 89.9 FM (and also at 102.9 FM). Started by partners including Noel “Paul” Stookey—the “Paul” in the folk trio Peter, Paul, and Mary—in a former chicken coop (only in Maine), the idea was to spread good local and rootsy music while also encouraging provocative, countercultural thinking. It’s become a little bit slicker and more professional in recent years, but WERU still retains a pleasantly homespun quality and plays some of the best true folk, roots, Americana, Celtic, and blues music of any station in New England. There’s also some from-the-left news and commentary during the dinner hour each day, rock and electronic music late at night, and reggae and spoken-word poetry during other time slots.

Where to Stay in Blue Hill

Blue Hill Inn    The Blue Hill Inn has been hosting travelers since 1840 on one of the village’s main streets, within walking distance of everything. It’s a Federal-style inn, decorated in a Colonial American motif; creaky wooden floors stamp it with authenticity. The innkeepers have pleasantly furnished all rooms with antiques and down comforters; a few units in the main house have wood-burning fireplaces (main house rooms are open only from mid-May through the end of October), while a large contemporary suite in an adjacent, free-standing building has a cathedral ceiling, fireplace, full kitchen, living room, and deck (and it’s open year-round). Most rooms lack telephones. Breakfasts here are very good, maybe because the eggs are fresh from the innkeepers’ own coops.

40 Union St., Blue Hill. www.bluehillinn.com.  207/374-2844. 13 units. Late June–Sept $195–$280 double; $295–$395 suite; discounts in the spring and fall. Rates include full breakfast and afternoon pastries. 2-night minimum in summer. Packages available. Main inn closed Nov–mid-May, 1 cottage open year-round. Children 13 and older are welcome. Cottage accommodates pets. Amenities: Dining room; wine and cocktail service; library; free Wi-Fi.

Where to Eat in Blue Hill

The Fish Net ( 207/374-5240), at the north end of Main Street (near the junction of routes 172 and 177), is the place where locals go for quick meals of takeout fried fish, lobster rolls, clam baskets, and ice-cream cones. It’s open seasonal—figure mid-April to Columbus Day, at most. If it’s a sweet fix you’re after, Black Dinah Chocolatiers ( 207/374-2228), at 5 Main Street (which they share with a terrific florist), makes unparalleled, fancy little chocolates—pear and champagne truffles, peanut butter–filled frogs, choc-covered sea salt caramels. Their tasting room (open Monday through Saturday 8:30am to 5pm, Sunday 11am to 4pm) has a vintage soda-fountain counter where you can sit and sample with an espresso—or a mug of sipping chocolate.

Arborvine SEAFOOD/FUSION   The Arborvine gives sleepy Blue Hill a top-flight eatery in a beautifully renovated Cape Cod–style house. The restaurant’s interior is warm and inviting, with rough-hewn timbers, polished wooden floors, and a cozy bar area. The intriguing main courses change nightly but might feature haddock Niçoise, broiled Stonington halibut with grilled polenta, roast duckling with apple-ginger compote, gallettes of Maine crab and shrimp, or a locally raised and wood-fired Cornish game hen. Yummy desserts could include a Grand Marnier–spiked chocolate mousse; chocolate cake with raspberry ganache; a lemon mousse napoleon; a gingery vanilla crème brûlée; or a Bartlett pear in puff pastry sided with macadamia nut-flavored cream, pomegranate sauce, and a bit of cinnamon ice cream. In 2011, the owners (their son, actually) opened the DeepWater brew pub in an adjacent barn, so you can actually park your car and have two restaurants to choose from. The brewpub’s not as impressive, but if you’re after a good burger, nachos, or sports, you have an option.

33 Tenney Hill, Blue Hill. www.arborvine.com.  207/374-2119. Main dining room entrees $26–$34; brewpub entrees $10–$17. Summer Tues–Sun 5–9pm; off-season Fri–Sun 5:30–8:30pm.

Exploring Blue Hill

Blue Hill has traditionally attracted more than its fair share of artists, especially potters. Family-run Rackliffe Pottery (www.rackliffepottery.com;  888/631-3321) on Route 172 (Ellsworth Road), uses native clay and lead-free glazes. Visitors are welcome to watch the potters at work. It’s open year-round.

If you’re an ardent antiques hunter (or collector of bizarre experiences), it might be worth your while to detour to the Big Chicken Barn (www.bigchickenbarn.com;  207/667-7308), a sprawling antiques mall and bookstore on Route 1 between Ellsworth and Bucksport. (Look for it 9 miles west of Ellsworth or 11 miles east of Bucksport.) The place is of nearly shopping-mall proportions—more than 21,000 square feet of stuff in an old poultry barn. It’s open daily from 10am to 6pm during summer, 10am to 5pm in the spring and fall, 10am to 4pm in winter.

Jonathan Fisher House HISTORIC HOME   A half-mile west of the village of Blue Hill, this is the best “museum” in town. Parson Fisher, Blue Hill’s first permanent minister, was a small-town Renaissance man when he settled here in 1796. Educated at Harvard, Fisher not only delivered sermons in six different languages (including Aramaic), but was also a writer, painter, and inventor of boundless energy. On a tour of this yellow clapboard house, which he built himself in 1814, you can view a clock with wooden works and a camera obscura that Fisher made, plus pictures he painted and books he wrote, published, and bound by hand. Outside, the property’s owners are slowly recreating Fisher’s original orchard.

44 Mines Rd. (Rte. 176), Blue Hill. www.jonathanfisherhouse.org.  207/374-2459. $5 suggested donation. Jul–Aug Wed–Sat 1–4pm, Sept–mid-Oct Fri–Sat 1–4pm only.

Wonderful Walks

A good way to explore this region is to ascend the open summit of Blue Hill , from which you’ll gain superb views of the bay and the bald mountaintops on nearby Mount Desert Island. To reach the trail head from the center of the village, drive north on Route 172 about 11⁄2 miles, then turn west (left) on Mountain Road at the Blue Hill Fairgrounds. Drive another 3⁄4 mile and look for the well-marked trail; park on the shoulder of the road. The fairly easy ascent is about a mile, and takes about 45 minutes. Bring a picnic lunch.