lower midcoast: freeport, the boothbays & pemaquid
Veteran Maine travelers contend that this part of the coast, the southern leg of what’s long been known as the “Midcoast” (one word, please), is fast losing its native charm—it’s too commercial, they say, too developed, too highfalutin’ . . . in short, too much like the rest of the United States. These grousers have a point, especially along U.S. Route 1. But get off the main roads, and you’ll swiftly find pockets of another Maine, with some of the most pastoral and picturesque meadows, hills, peninsulas, and harbors in the entire state.
Anchoring the south end of this section of the coast is Freeport, a shopping mecca with more outlet stores than you can shake a stick at. North of Freeport, get onto U.S. Route 1 in the lively college town of Brunswick (exit 28 from I-295). Going north, some highlights of the coastal route include the historic shipbuilding town of Bath, rich with Victorian architecture; riverside Wiscasset, the self-proclaimed “prettiest village in Maine”; a string of scenic oceanfront villages collectively known as The Boothbays; the rugged, rocky Pemaquid peninsula; and lost-in-time Monhegan Island.
Beyond local tourist huts and chambers of commerce, the best source of information for the midcoast region in general is found at the Maine State Information Center (
207/846-0833) just off exit 17 of I-295 in Yarmouth, which isn’t really in the Midcoast—but you’ll almost certainly pass through it to get there. This state-run center is stocked with hundreds of brochures, and is staffed with a helpful crew that can provide information about the entire state; it’s particularly well informed about the middle reaches of the coast. It’s open daily year-round, though not 24 hours—but the attached restroom facilities are always open.
123 miles NE of Boston, 333 miles NE of New York City, and 17 miles NE of Portland
If Freeport were a mall (which is not all that far-fetched an analogy), L.L.Bean would be the anchor store. It’s the business that launched this town to prominence, elevating its status from just another Maine fishing village near the interstate to one of the state’s major tourist draws for the outlet centers that sprang up here in Bean’s wake. Freeport still has the look of a classic Maine village, but it’s a village that’s been largely taken over by the national fashion industry; many of the old historic homes and stores have been converted into upscale factory shops purveying name-brand clothing and housewares at cut-rate prices. Banana Republic occupies an exceedingly handsome brick Federal-style home; a Carnegie library became an Abercrombie & Fitch pumping club music (oh, the inhumanity); and even the McDonald’s is inside a tasteful, understated Victorian farmhouse—you really have to look for the golden arches.
While some modern structures have also been built to accommodate the outlet boom, strict planning guidelines have managed to preserve most of the town’s local charm, at least downtown. Huge parking lots are hidden from view off the main drag, and as a result Freeport is one of the more aesthetically pleasing places to shop in New England—though even with these large lots, parking can be scarce during the peak season. Expect crowds.
Seeking the real Maine? Head at some point for South Freeport, which consists of a boat dock, general store, and lobster shack at the end of a finger of land reached via a numberless side road off U.S. Route 1.
Essentials
arriving
Freeport is on U.S. Route 1, though the downtown is most easily reached via I-295 from either exit 20 or exit 22.
Visitor Information
At the Freeport Information Center, at 23 Depot Street (www.freeportusa.com; 207/865-1212), you can pick up a map and directory of businesses, restaurants, and overnight accommodations.
Global Influence |
Right across the road from the state information center in Yarmouth is the former DeLorme Map Store, open Monday to Friday from 8am to 5pm. The mapping company DeLorme was purchased by GPS giant Garmin some years back, and the new owners shut down what had been a store full of map and atlases. They’ve kept the lobby open, though, so that visitors can drop in to get a look at Eartha, “the world’s largest rotating and revolving globe.” The 42-foot-diameter globe occupies the entire atrium and is constructed on a scale of 1:1,000,000, the largest satellite image of the earth ever produced. Far out.
One more fine reason to come to Freeport in summer is for the abundant free music performances that take over the village’s Discovery Park from mid-June through Labor Day. Underwritten by L.L.Bean (of course), it’s officially known as Summer in the Park. The performers in this summer concert series are eclectic—and impressively famous: In 2016, they ranged from Texas-based Grammy winner Lyle Lovett to New England chanteuse Grace Potter to Brooklyn hipster-folk trio The Lone Bellow. (Not to mention Maine’s own folk icon, David Mallett.) Occasional food festivals, kids’ events, and a well-loved Independence Day fireworks display add to the eclectic fun. Get a schedule by picking up a brochure at Bean’s information desk or checking www.llbean.com: Search for Summer in the Park.
Where to Stay in Freeport
Freeport has more than 700 guest rooms, ranging from quiet B&Bs with just a few rooms to chain motels with several dozen. Reservations are strongly recommended during the peak summer season. Several new midrange chain hotels and motels south of town on Route 1 have helped accommodate the summer crush. In a pinch you might try the Comfort Suites, 500 Route 1 ( 207/556-5568), or the adjacent Super 8 ( 207/865-1408). Both are simple, clean, and good enough for a night’s rest.
Harraseeket Inn 
The Harraseeket is a large, modern hotel a short walk north of L.L. Bean on Freeport’s Main Street. Despite its size, a traveler could drive right past and not even notice it—which is a good thing. A 19th-century home is the soul of the hotel, though most rooms are in annexes added in 1989 and 1997. Guests can relax in the dining room, read the paper in a common room while the baby grand player piano plays, or sip a cocktail in the homey Broad Arrow Tavern (with its wood-fired oven and grill, it serves dinner as well as lunch). Guest rooms are large and tastefully furnished, with quarter-canopy beds and a mix of contemporary and antique furnishings; some have gas or wood-burning fireplaces, around half have whirlpools, and some are even done up with wet bars and refrigerators. The big second-floor Thomas Moser Suite is a nod to the local furniture craftsman, with a pencil post bed, writing desk, dresser, and flatscreen TV in the bedroom, plus a sitting room with a modern sofa, lounge chair, coffee table, Bose stereo, and stone fireplace. Plus a soaking tub. This inn is especially pet-friendly, with doggy beds and treats for four-footed guests.
162 Main St., Freeport. www.harraseeketinn.com. 
800/342-6423 or 207/865-9377. 93 units. $158–$310 doubles; $262–$352 suites. Rates include full breakfast and afternoon tea. MAP rates available. Packages available. Pets welcome ($25/night per pet). Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; concierge; indoor pool; room service; free Wi-Fi.
Maine Idyll Motor Court 
Talk about a throwback: This 1930s “motor court” is a Maine classic, a cluster of 20 cottages scattered around a grove of oak and beech trees. It could have faded into oblivion, yet it hasn’t: The place is still good enough for a simple night’s sleep. Most cottages come with a tiny porch, wood-burning fireplace (birch logs are provided), television, modest kitchen facilities (no ovens), and dated furniture. The cabins aren’t especially large, but they’re comfortable enough and kept clean; some have showers, while others have bathtubs, and a good number of the cottages have two bedrooms (one even has three bedrooms). Ask for a cottage with air-conditioning if that’s important—a few units have it. Kids like the play area, while dog-walkers head for nature trails accessible from the property and picnickers fire up grill sets. The only downers are the spotty Wi-Fi service (it’s best at the Maine office) and the sometimes drone of traffic: I-295 is just through the trees on one side, U.S. 1 is on the other side. Get past that traffic sandwich, though, and this place is a decent lowbrow value.
1411 U.S. Rte. 1, Freeport. www.maineidyll.com. 207/865-4201. 20 units. May–Oct $69–$136 double. Rates include continental breakfast. Closed Nov–Apr. Pets on leashes allowed ($4/night per pet). Amenities: Playground; free Wi-Fi.
Tale of the tags: Freeport vs. Kittery
While the outlet malls in Kittery (see box p. 57), down south near the New Hampshire border, are convenient for a blitz of name-brand shopping, Freeport is a different animal. The outlets here are crunched together along and interspersed around Freeport’s busy Main Street. That makes driving around town a headache, as pedestrians and cars cruising for parking bring things to a constant halt, but it’s more convenient once you’re out of the car. My advice? Strap on your walking shoes, park anywhere you can find a spot—even in a distant satellite lot—and just resign yourself to a lot of hoofing it. Bring a portable dolly or luggage rack to carry packages if you’re expecting to buy a lot.
Freeport’s outlets generally offer a higher grade of product than Kittery’s do, and the stores have a great deal more architectural (and corporate) personality, too. You will actually find local, small manufacturers here, not just the big guys, and inventive big brands that go beyond the usual. Price tags tend to be higher here than in Kittery, however.
You can troll L.L. Bean’s many stores (see p. 119), but even just sticking to Main Street you’ll come across such finds as Cuddledown of Maine’s comfy pillows and comforters; the Casco Bay Cutlery and Kitchenware’s respected knife shop; Abercrombie & Fitch’s ever-young fashions, housed in a former Carnegie library; excellent bi-level Gap and Banana Republic outlets; the familiar Polo Ralph Lauren and The North Face outlets; and plenty more distinctive factory shops.
If you love shopping and you love quality, it’s a genuinely enjoyable experience to stroll around here for a day, taking a snack of chowder or lobster (for restaurants, see below); pausing to assess your finds; grabbing a soda, grilled hot dog, or ice cream from a vendor; then planning dinner somewhere. Parking and traffic are negatives to consider, however—you may cruise a half-hour before finding an open spot (if you ever do).
Where to Eat in Freeport
Despite all the outlet glitz of Freeport, a couple of small-town restaurants have persisted. For a quick and simple meal, you might head to the Azure Cafe 
, 123 Main Street (www.azurecafe.com; 207/865-1237), for hearty sandwiches and pasta. The Lobster Cooker, 39 Main Street (www.thelobstercooker.com; 207/869-5086), serves daily seafood, sandwich, and chowder specials on an outdoor patio with views of the shopping hordes; go for salmon, lobster, or crab.
For yet another option, try the Broad Arrow Tavern at the Harraseeket Inn (see p. 114).
Gritty McDuff’s BREWPUB Spacious, informal, and air-conditioned in summer, Gritty’s is an offshoot of Portland’s original brewpub. It’s a short drive south of Freeport’s village center, and is best known for a varied selection of house-brewed beers like the unfiltered Black Fly Stout. The pub offers a wide-ranging bar menu of reliable salads, burgers, steaks, stone-oven pizzas, cheesesteak sandwiches, quesadillas, and pub classics such as shepherd’s pie and fish and chips. There’s a kids’ menu as well.
187 U.S. Rte. 1 (Main St.), Freeport. www.grittys.com. 207/865-4321. Reservations not accepted. Main courses $10–$17. Daily 11:30am–11pm.
Harraseeket Lunch & Lobster LOBSTER Next to a boatyard on the Harraseeket River, about a 10-minute drive from Freeport’s busy shopping district, this lobster pound’s picnic tables get crowded on sunny days—although, with its little heated dining room, it’s a worthy destination any time. Point and pick out a lobster, than take in river views from the dock as you wait for your number to be called. Advice? Come in late afternoon to avoid the lunch and dinner hordes—and don’t wear your nicest clothes. This is roll-up-your-sleeves eating. You can also get fried fish, burgers, chowder, or an ice cream from the window. From Freeport, take Bow Street to South Street; continue on South Street to the South Freeport four-way intersection. Turn left at the stop sign and continue downhill to the water.
Main St., South Freeport. www.harraseeketlunchandlobster.com. 207/865-4888. Lobsters market price (typically $10–$20). No credit cards. May–mid-Oct daily 11am–8:30pm. Closed Columbus Day–Apr.
Jameson Tavern AMERICAN In a farmhouse right in the shadow of L.L. Bean (on the north side), Jameson Tavern touts itself as the birthplace of Maine. And it really is: In 1820, papers were signed here legally separating Maine from Massachusetts. Mainers still appreciate that pen stroke today. The historic Tap Room is to the left, a compact spot of beer and casual food. The rest of the house contains the main dining room, decorated in a more formal, country-Colonial style. Meals here are either pubby or clubby: sandwiches, burgers, and fried seafood on the lighter side, prime rib and stuffed lobster on the heavier. What’s new in this old place? A nice porch, open about half of the year (not in winter, obviously) for dining semi al fresco.
115 Main St., Freeport. www.jamesontavern.com. 207/865-4196. Reservations recommended. Main courses $10–$25. Tap room daily 11am–11pm; dining room daily 11am–9pm.
Exploring Freeport
The Stores
Freeport has more than 140 retail shops spaced out between exit 20 of I-295 (at the far lower end of Main Street) and Mallet Road, which connects to exit 22. Some shops have even begun to spread south of exit 20 toward Yarmouth. The bulk of them are “factory” or “outlet” stores. If you don’t want to miss a single one, get off at exit 17 and head north on U.S. Route 1. The bargains can vary from extraordinary to “huh?” Plan on wearing out some shoe leather and taking at least a half-day if you’re really intent on finding the best deals.
The sometimes-changing rotation of national chains here has recently included Abercrombie & Fitch, Banana Republic, Gap, Calvin Klein, Patagonia, North Face, Nike, Orvis, Tommy Hilfiger, Cole Haan, among many others. You’ll also find a number of high-end Maine brands represented, including Georgetown Pottery, chi-chi blankets from Brahms Mount, and beloved import emporium Mexicali Blues.
Stores in Freeport are typically open daily 9am to 9pm during the busy summer and close much earlier (at 5 or 6pm) in other seasons; between Thanksgiving and Christmas, they remain open late once more.
Casco Bay Cutlery & Kitchenware Long known as Freeport Knife for its signature product, this store still sports a wide selection of knives for kitchen and camp alike, including blades from Germany, Switzerland, and Japan. Also find esoteric pots, pans, and gadgets from the likes of Le Cresuet, Peugeot, and Maine’s Fletchers’ Mill.
5 Depot St., Freeport. www.freeportknife.com. 800/646-8430.
Cuddledown Cuddledown started producing down comforters in 1973, and now makes a whole line of products much appreciated in northern climes and beyond. Some of the down pillows are made right in the outlet shop, which also carries a variety of European goose-down comforters in all sizes and weights. Look for linens, blankets, moccasins, and home furnishings, too.
554 U.S. Route 1 (btw. exits 17 and 20), Freeport. www.cuddledown.com. 207/865-1713.
L.L. Bean 
Monster outdoor retailer L.L.Bean traces its roots from the day Leon Leonwood Bean decided that what the world really needed was a good weatherproof hunting shoe. He joined a watertight gum shoe to a laced leather upper; hunters liked it; the store grew; an empire was born. Today, L.L. Bean sells millions of dollars’ worth of clothing and outdoor goods nationwide through its well-respected catalogs, and it continues to draw hundreds of thousands of customers through its doors to a headquarters building and several offshoots around town. The modern, multilevel main store is about the size of a regional mall, but it’s very tastefully done with its own indoor trout pond, a fish tank that gobsmacks kiddos, a (famous) huge Bean boot outside, and taxidermy displays around every corner. Selections include Bean’s own trademark clothing, books, shoes, and plenty of outdoor gear for camping, fishing, and hunting (and separate stores across the plaza house home goods and bike and ski gear—see box above). The staff at each store is incredibly knowledgeable—probably because Bean’s policy is to encourage staff to take the gear home and try it out themselves so they can better advise their customers.
95 Main St. (at Bow St.)., Freeport. www.llbean.com. 877/755-2326.
One of the big reasons that L.L. Bean’s flagship shop is such a tourist draw is that it’s open 365 days a year, 7 days a week, 24 hours a day—note the lack of any locks or latches on the front doors. As such, it’s a popular spot even in the dead of night, especially during summer or around holidays. Folks have been known to set out from New Hampshire at 1 or 2 in the morning to enjoy the best deals (and empty aisles) on their middle-of-the-night arrival. But L.L. Bean’s campus doesn’t stop at the flagship store. The Hunting & Fishing Store is connected to the flagship (indeed, you can walk from one into the other without realizing you’ve done so); it’s the place for fly-fishing gear, hunting boots, and tons of other undeniably cool stuff—from freeze-dried camp food to hand-crank-powered LED flashlights (no batteries required), folding Adirondack chairs, 13-foot game-hunting perches, and a zillion lures, fly ties, buck knives, tent lines, and watercraft. L.L. Bean also maintains several a few nearby satellite shops stocking small, rapidly changing inventories of specialized goods. The Bike, Boat & Ski Store, just across the Freeport Village Station plaza from the flagship store, holds lots of canoes, kayaks, paddles, cycles, and helmets. Next to it is a huge Home Store, selling hand-crafted beds, sofas, and other furniture, plus home accessories (doormat, anyone?). Finally, Bean’s outlet shop is just across Main Street in the new Freeport Village Station complex.
The Mangy Moose A souvenir shop with a twist: Virtually everything in this place is moose-related. Really. There are moose wineglasses, moose trivets, moose cookie cutters, and (of course) moose T-shirts. And yet somehow, hokey as this notion sounds, this merchandise is a notch above what you’ll find in most other souvenir shops around the state.
112 Main St., Freeport. www.themangymoose.com. 207/865-6414.
Thos. Moser Cabinetmakers Classic furniture reinterpreted in lustrous wood and leather is the focus at this shop, which—thanks to a steady parade of ads in the New Yorker and a Madison Avenue branch—has become nearly as representative of Maine as L.L. Bean has. Shaker, Mission, and modern styles are wonderfully reinvented by Tom Moser and his designers and woodworkers, who produce heirloom-quality signed pieces. Nationwide delivery is easy to arrange. There’s a good selection of knotted rugs made by an independent artisan, and a worthy gallery of rotating Maine-made art on site. Finally, don’t miss the outlet annex and its samples, prototypes, and refurbished pieces; you can save big bucks here.
149 Main St., Freeport. www.thomasmoser.com. 800/862-1973 or 207/865-4519.
Beyond the stores
While Freeport is nationally known for its outlet shopping, that’s not all it offers. Just outside of town you’ll find a lovely pastoral landscape, picturesque picnicking spots, and scenic drives that make for a handy retreat from all that spending.
By car head east on Bow Street (down the hill from L.L. Bean’s main entrance), and wind around for 1 mile to the sign for Mast Landing Audubon Sanctuary ( 207/781-2330). Turn left and then right about 1⁄4 mile into the sanctuary parking lot. A network of trails totaling about 3 miles crisscrosses through a landscape of long-ago eroded hills and mixed woodlands; streams trickle down to the marshland estuary. The 140-acre property is owned by the Maine Audubon Society and is open to the public until dusk.
Continue south on Wolfe’s Neck Road, and you’ll soon come to the 233-acre Wolfe’s Neck Woods State Park ( 207/865-4465). This compact, attractive park has quiet woodland trails that run through forests of white pine and hemlock, past estuaries, and along the rocky shoreline of the bay. Googins Island, just offshore and reached by following the park’s Casco Bay Trail, has an osprey nest on it. This is a good destination for enjoying a picnic brought from town or for letting the kids burn off some pent-up energy—there are guided nature walks at 2pm daily during the summer. The day-use fee for the park is $6 per non-Maine resident adult, $2 for nonresident seniors, and $1 for children ages 5 to 11.
Brunswick & Bath
Brunswick is 10 miles NE of Freeport. Bath is 8 miles E of Brunswick
Brunswick and Bath are two handsome, historic towns that share a strong commercial past. Many travelers heading up Route 1 pass through both towns eager to reach areas with higher billing on the marquee. That’s a shame, for both are well worth the detour to sample the sort of slower pace that’s being lost elsewhere.
Brunswick was once home to several mills along the Androscoggin River. These have since been converted to offices and the like, but Brunswick’s broad Maine Street still bustles with activity. (Idiosyncratic traffic patterns can lead to snarls of traffic in the late afternoon.) Brunswick is also home to Bowdoin College 
, one of the nation’s most respected small colleges.
Eight miles east of Brunswick, Bath is pleasantly situated on the broad Kennebec River and is a noted center of shipbuilding. Young professional émigrés have been attracted by its fine old houses, but it’s still at heart a blue-collar town, with massive traffic tie-ups weekdays at 3pm when the shipyard changes shifts.
Essentials
arriving
Brunswick and Bath are both on Route 1. Brunswick is accessible via exit 28 off I-95. If you’re bypassing Brunswick and heading north up Route 1 to Bath or beyond, continue up I-95 and exit at the “coastal connector” exit in nearby Topsham (exit 31), which avoids some of the slower traffic going through Brunswick.
For bus service from Portland or Boston, contact Greyhound (www.greyhound.com; 800/231-2222) or Concord Coach (www.concordcoachlines.com; 800/639-3317).
Visitor Information
The Southern Midcoast Chamber of Commerce, 2 Main Street in Topsham (www.midcoastmaine.com; 877/725-8797 or 207/725-8797), offers information and lodging assistance Monday to Friday from 8:30am to 5pm from its offices in downtown Topsham.
Special Events
Note that Christmas is a big time in Bath: For a full month, from Thanksgiving to the holiday, downtown features fun window displays, a parade, and other events. Contact the local tourist office for more details.
Where to Stay in Brunswick and Bath
The most interesting lodging around Brunswick and Bath are stately B&Bs and inns that fall in with the two towns’ historic vibes.
Bath
In Bath, the Residence Inn By Marriot, 139 Richardson St. ( 207/443-9741) is great for long stays, with one- and two-room suites. It’s a brand-new building, just opened in late 2015, and feels fresh and spotless.
Grey Havens Located on Georgetown Island southeast of Bath, this gracefully aging 1904 shingled home with prominent turrets sits on a high, rocky bluff overlooking the sea. Inside, you can relax in front of a cobblestone fireplace before checking in. Guest rooms are as simple as you’d expect, with plain bathrooms; oceanfront rooms command a premium but are worth it for the views—if you’re looking to save a few bucks, ask about an oceanfront room with its bathroom located across the hall. Guests can use the inn’s canoes or bikes to explore the area. (There’s a little stairway down to a tiny dock on the water, from which guests have reportedly caught whopping fish.) A drawback? This inn has been only lightly modernized, so its character remains authentic—and its walls thin. The wonderfully big and (half-screened) porch is worth sitting on for a while, and the lounge features a big picture window. From U.S. Route 1, go south on Route 127 and then follow signs for Reid State Park for 11 miles; just after turning onto Reid State Road (also known as Seguinland Road), watch for inn on left
96 Seguinland Rd., Georgetown Island. www.greyhavens.com. 855/473-9428 or 207/371-2616. 13 units (2 with private hall bathrooms). $155–$325 double. Rates include full breakfast. 2-night minimum stay weekends. Closed Nov–Apr. No children 11 and under. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; free Wi-Fi.
Sebasco Harbor Resort Sebasco is a grand old seaside resort fighting a mostly successful battle against time; some guests have been returning for 60 years, and spacious grounds remain the star attraction. Expect sweeping ocean views, a lovely seaside pool, and great walks, plus children’s activities (including a kids’ camp), a spa, and pancake breakfasts on the lawn. Most guest rooms are adequate, not elegant, although the resort has poured a pile of money into renovation. Small decks on many of the inn rooms are a plus. Better are the quirky rooms in the octagonal Lighthouse Building; most have TVs. There are also interior-court and lakefront cottages of various sizes (with up to 10 bedrooms), though some are very expensive—figure $1,000 and up per night (you read right) for primo lakeside digs. To get here, drive south from Bath 11 miles on Route 209; look for Route 217, then signs to Sebasco
29 Kenyon Rd., Sebasco Estates. www.sebasco.com. 207/805-2397. 111 units, 22 cottages. Mid-June–Labor Day $169–$329 double, $229–$2,390 cottage; May–mid-June and Sept–Oct $139–$234 double, $189–$2,090 cottage. MAP rates also available. Rates do not include 10% resort service charge or state sales tax. 2-night minimum on weekends. Closed late Oct–early May. Pets allowed (some units). Amenities: Restaurants; bar; bike rentals; children’s program; golf course; health club; pool; sauna; spa; tennis courts; hot tub; canoe and kayak rentals; sailing lessons; shuffleboard; bowling; free Wi-Fi.
Brunswick
In Brunswick, Best Western Plus, 71 Gurnet Road ( 207/725-5251), is pet-friendly and a convenient hopping-off point for the Harpswell peninsula and islands to the south.
The Brunswick Inn This handsome B&B in a rambling Federal-style house with a wraparound porch sits smack-dab in downtown Brunswick, facing the town green. Run by the enthusiastic and friendly Eileen Horner, it has been recently updated, and is positioned perfectly: within walking distance of Bowdoin College, a summer music theater, and restaurants lining Maine Street. Rooms are spacious, furnished in a country-modern style—some with wingback or wicker chairs, and all with attractive quilts; ask about the bright corner rooms, suites, and the Garden Cottage. The full breakfasts here are a highlight. Even better: A bar/lounge serves wine and microbrews before views of the park or a fireplace, with local acoustic musicians sometimes dropping by to play intimate sets.
10 Water St., Brunswick. www.brunswickbnb.com. 800/299-4914 or 207/729-4914. 15 units. $129–$229 doubles; $195 suites; $260–$299 cottage. Prices include full breakfast. Amenities: Lounge; free Wi-Fi.
The Daniel Inn The core of this boutique property is a 1819 Federal-style home, although serious recent renovations (the current owners took over in 2013) leave this place feeling as fresh and modern as any property in Brunswick. Rooms are sumptuous if snug, with flatscreen TVs, beautiful wooden bed frames, and thick comforters and drapes. Some have balconies, refrigerators, and two-person rain showerheads. The on-site bistro has pubby favorites and a really terrific beer, wine, and cocktail list (though it closes early if it’s not seeing a lot of action). The giant lobby fireplace is a fine spot to chill with a drink. From Maine Street, turn right on Mason Street, then left on Water Street to cross an overpass above Route 1.
163 Danforth St., Brunswick. www.danforthinn.com. 207/373-1824. 24 units. Mid-May–Oct $195–$329 double, $245–$329 suite; Nov–mid-May $124–$249 double, $154–$279 suite. Rates include breakfast. Some rooms accommodate pets (with $100 deposit). Packages available. Amenities: Free bikes; restaurant; bar; fitness center; Jacuzzi; sauna; free Wi-Fi.
Camping
One of the coast’s best campgrounds, the Chewonki Campground (www.chewonkicampground.com; 207/882-7426) is located between Bath and Wiscasset. It occupies 50 acres overlooking a salt marsh and a confluence of lazy tidal streams. The 47 sites here are sizable and private; there’s a nicely maintained pool with a sweeping view, and kayaks and canoes are available for rent. Campsites cost from $48 to $80 per night, which is at the quite high end of the camping price scale in Maine—yet it actually might be worth it. Drive 7 miles east of Bath on U.S. Route 1; turn right on Route 144, then take the next right past the airport and follow signs to the campground.
Where to Eat in Brunswick and Bath
Both downtown Brunswick and downtown Bath offer plenty of casual places to dine, ranging from burgers to barbecue and better. For informal fare, it’s hard to go wrong at these cafes and restaurants.
Bath
If you’ve just got to have lobster, head for Five Islands Lobster Co. (see below), or continue north across the Route 1 bridge a few miles to Taste of Maine ( 207/443-4554), an overlarge tourist trap that nevertheless delivers the goods (read: lobster and fish), plus good marsh views.
Five Islands Lobster Co. LOBSTER POUND The drive alone makes this lobster pound a worthy destination. It’s about 12 miles south of Route 1, down winding Route 127, past bogs and spruce forests with glimpses of the ocean. (Head south from Woolwich, just across the big bridge from downtown Bath.) Drive until you pass a cluster of clapboard homes, and then keep going until you can’t go any farther. Wander out to the wharf (with great views) and place your order. This is a down-home affair, with local lobstermen coming and going on all aides. The adjacent snack bar purveys soda and side dishes; gather all your grub and settle in at a picnic table or a grassy spot at the edge of the dirt parking lot. But don’t expect to be alone: Despite its edge-of-the-world feel, this beloved pound draws steady traffic and can actually get crowded on weekends.
1447 Five Islands Rd. (Rte. 127), Georgetown. www.fiveislandslobster.com. 207/371-2990. Prices vary according to market. Daily 11am–8pm June–Aug; shorter hours Sept to early Columbus Day. Closed Columbus Day–mid-May.
Mae’s Café & Bakery BREAKFAST/BRUNCH Great breakfasts served in a wonderful old house in downtown Bath. Try one of the creative benedicts, like housemade lamb sausage with feta and spinach, or the unexpectedly yummy Brussels sprouts and bacon hash. Locals line up to take out baked goods like the pecan-studded sticky buns and specialty cakes and pies.
160 Centre St., Bath. www.maescafeandbakery.com. 207/442-8577. Breakfast and lunch entrees $7–$15. Daily 8am–2pm. Closed Feb.
Solo Bistro BISTRO Right on Bath’s main drag, this bistro/slash/jazz club (live music on Fridays sometimes) is a locals’ favorite for a date night. The menu is divided between creative small plates (soups, salads, seafood) and more substantial large plates (burgers, hanger steak, grilled fish, gnocchi, curry); desserts are especially well thought out. The decor here is cooler than cool, including minimalist, brightly colored chairs; Scandinavian birch tabletops; and the space’s native, rough-hewn stone walls.
128 Front St., Bath. www.solobistro.com. 207/443-3373. Main courses $18–$27; 3-course prix-fixe menu $25 ($18 on Wed). Daily 5pm to closing.
brunswick
Enoteca Athena MEDITERRANEAN Greek and Italian wines, renowned to obscure, are ostensibly the draw here, but the talent of chef-owner Tim O’Brien makes this smartly casual downtown destination much more than a wine bar. Perfectly executed gyros, chicken parmesan, and Grandma’s spaghetti for the less-than-adventurous, and decadent bucatini with mushrooms and blue cheese or lamb ragu over frascarelli for the rest of it. Local seafood specials are a treat as well. In the summer, there’s fine people-watching from the sidewalk tables up front.
97 Maine St., Brunswick. www.enotecaathena.com. 207/721-0100. Main courses $13–$22. Mon–Thurs 3:30–9pm, Fri–Sat 3:30–10pm.
Frontier PUB/ECLECTIC FARE Taking up a significant chunk of a historic old mill looking out over the Androscoggin River dividing Brunswick and Topsham, this welcoming, mildly bohemian hangout has a great bar and a global menu that accommodates everything from kimchi to Bolognese to fish and chips to falafel. Friday night in here is a great cross-section of Brunswick: dating couples, families with little kids, packs of students quaffing beers a few tables over from their professors blowing off steam. After dinner, catch an indie movie or live music in the Frontier cinema, or just wonder around and enjoy all the local art on the walls.
14 Maine St., Brunswick. www.explorefrontier.com. 207/725-5222. Main courses $13–$25. Tues–Thurs and Sun 11am–9pm, Fri–Sat 11am–10pm.
Brunswick is increasingly a bedroom community for young professionals and families priced out of Portland and its immediate suburbs. Together with the Bowdoin College crowd, these folks keep Maine Street pretty hopping on a summer Saturday night, and their patronage helps Brunswick support a handful of really standout restaurants, not one but two indie movie theaters, a few funky book and record stores, and so on.
Collectibles buffs and aficionados of antiques malls should schedule an hour or so for Cabot Mill Antiques, 14 Maine Street (www.cabotiques.com; 207/725-2855), located on the ground floor of a restored textile mill in downtown Brunswick. In the 15,000-square-foot showroom, more than 140 dealers purvey a wide variety of books, bottles, dolls, art, china, and porcelains. Quality is highly variable. The facility is open daily from 10am to 5pm (7pm on Friday).
Brunswick’s main attraction, Bowdoin College , was founded in 1794, offered its first classes 8 years later, and has since amassed an illustrious roster of prominent alumni, including Nathaniel Hawthorne, Henry Wadsworth Longfellow, President Franklin Pierce, and arctic explorer Robert E. Peary (see box p. 130). Civil War hero Joshua Chamberlain served as president of the college after the war. The campus green is well worth a short stroll. Sturdy little Massachusetts Hall, my favorite building, originally contained the entire college within its walls. Winthrop Hall, close by, was the first of the line of brick dormitories that march in a prim line away from Hubbard Hall (1934), a drippingly Gothic library. The steepled granite chapel is worth peeking inside if it’s open—designed by Richard Upjohn, it’s unmistakably the visual focal point of the campus.
Bowdoin College Museum of Art MUSEUM This domed building on Bowdoin’s main quad is one of the best small museums in New England—and it’s free. The grand rotunda entrance announces the building’s presence: It was designed by the prominent architectural firm of McKim, Mead & White. Collections are small but superb. The holdings include a number of American artists—some with close ties to Maine such as the Wyeths, Winslow Homer, and other landscape painters—but there’s also a significant collection of work from classic European painters, and plenty of modern art. The older, upstairs galleries have soft, diffused lighting from skylights high above; the basement galleries, which feature rotating exhibits, are modern and spacious thanks to a thorough redesign in 2008 by an Argentine architect, which brought in light, color, and style.
Inside Walker Art Bldg., Bowdoin College, Brunswick. www.bowdoin.edu/art-museum. 207/725-3275. Free admission. Tues–Sat 10am–5pm (Thurs to 8:30pm); Sun 1–5pm. Closed holidays.
Peary-MacMillan Arctic Museum MUSEUM While Admiral Robert E. Peary (Bowdoin class of 1887) is better known for his accomplishments—he “discovered” the North Pole at age 53 in 1909—Donald MacMillan (class of 1898) also racked up an impressive string of Arctic achievements. You can learn about both men (and the wherefores of arctic exploration) in this tucked-away museum on the Bowdoin campus, just across the lawn from the college’s fine museum of art (see p. 125). Why here? Admiral Robert Peary and non-admiral Donald MacMillan graduated from Bowdoin in consecutive years late in the 19th century. When they returned from their respective polar travels, the two men donated many items they collected to their alma mater. The front room features mounted animals from the Arctic, including some impressive polar bears. A second room outlines Peary’s historic 1909 expedition, complete with excerpts from his journal, and another room includes varied displays of Inuit arts and crafts, some historic and some modern. Rotating exhibits focus on Inuit and First Nations art, scrimshaw, contemporary Arctic photography, and more. It’s a compact museum that can be visited in about 20 minutes or so.
Inside Hubbard Hall, Bowdoin College, Brunswick. www.bowdoin.edu/arctic-museum. 207/725-3416. Free admission. Tues–Sat 10am–5pm; Sun 2–5pm. Closed holidays.
Exploring Bath
First and foremost, Bath is a shipbuilding town. The first U.S.-built ship was constructed downstream at the Popham Bay colony in the early 17th century. In the years since, shipbuilders have constructed more than 5,000 ships hereabouts. Bath shipbuilding reached its heyday in the late 19th century, but the business of shipbuilding continues to this day; Bath Iron Works is still one of the nation’s preeminent boatyards, constructing and repairing ships for the U.S. Navy. The scaled-down military has left Bath shipbuilders in a somewhat tenuous state, but it’s still common to see the steely gray ships in the dry dock (the best view is from the bridge over the Kennebec) and the towering red-and-white crane moving supplies and parts around the yard.
Architecture buffs will find a detour to Bath more than worthwhile. (Look for the free brochure Architectural Tours: Walking and Driving in the Bath Area, available at information centers listed below.) The Victorian era in particular is well represented. Washington Street, lined with maples and impressive homes, is one of the best-preserved displays in New England of late-19th-century residences.
Front Street is the heart of Bath’s compact downtown, on a small rise overlooking the river, and it’s home to some remarkable Victorian commercial architecture—walk down the street slowly and try to count the brick buildings, but you’ll lose track. There’s also a clutch of shops, groceries, and eateries. Note especially the blond, stone Richardson-style Patten Free Library (at Summer Street)—its park features a gazebo, fountain, and perfect view of the Winter Street Church—and the bell tower on the big City Hall/Davenport Memorial (its correct name) at 55 Front Street, built in 1929 during the Great Depression with money bequeathed by a wealthy local merchant. Its bell, from 1802, was probably cast by Paul Revere. Stop by the Centre Street Arts Gallery (11 Center Street) to see works by regional artists.
Art lovers in particular will enjoy exploring Georgetown Island, southeast of town. During the early 20th century the island, together with the neighboring Popham Peninsula, was known as “Seguinland,” a summer outpost for modernist artists like photographer Paul Strand, sculptor Gaston Lachaise, and painters Marsden Hartley and Marguerite and William Zorach.
Maine Maritime Museum & Shipyard MUSEUM On the shores of the Kennebec River, this museum (just south of the big Bath Iron Works shipyard) features a wide array of displays and exhibits related to boat building. In fact, the museum is housed in the former Percy and Small shipyard, which built some 42 schooners in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. (The largest wooden ship built in the United States—the 329-foot Wyoming—was constructed here.) The centerpiece of the museum is the handsomely modern Maritime History Building, housing exhibits of maritime art and artifacts. There’s also a gift shop with a good selection of books about ships. The remaining property (closed on cold winter days) houses a fleet of displays, including an intriguing exhibit on lobstering and a complete boat-building shop. Kids enjoy the play area (they can search for pirates from the crow’s nest of a play boat, for instance), and there’s always something interesting tied to the docks on the river.
243 Washington St., Bath. www.maritimemuseum.org. 207/443-1316. Admission $15.50 adults, $14 seniors, $10 children 6–12. Daily 9:30am–5pm.
Beaches
This stretch of the Maine coast is better known for rocky cliffs and lobster pots than swimming beaches, with two notable exceptions, both south of Bath.
Popham Beach State Park ( 207/389-1335) is located at the tip of Route 209 (head south from Bath). This handsome park has a long and sandy strand, plus great views of knobby offshore islands such as Seguin Island, capped with a lonesome lighthouse. Parking and basic services, including changing rooms, are available; rare birds are often seen here. Admission is $8 for non-Maine resident adults, $2 for nonresident seniors, $1 for children 5 to 11 in season. There are discounts in the off season.
At the tip of Georgetown Island, to the east, is Reid State Park ( 207/371-2303), an idyllic place to picnic on a summer day and party with friends. Arrive early enough, and you can stake out a picnic table among the wind-blasted pines. The 11⁄2-mile-long beach is great for strolling and splashing around. Services include changing rooms and a small snack bar. Admission is $8 for nonresident adults, $2 for nonresident seniors, $1 for children 5 to 11. To reach Reid State Park, follow Route 127 south from Bath and Route 1.
Harpswell Peninsula
13 miles S of Brunswick, 17 miles S of Bath
Extending southwest from Brunswick and Bath, the picturesque Harpswell region is actually three peninsulas, like the tines of a pitchfork, if you include the islands of Orrs and Bailey, which are linked to the mainland by bridges. While close to some of Maine’s larger towns (Portland is only 45 minutes away), the Harpswell Peninsula has a remote, historical feel with sudden vistas across meadows to the blue waters of northern Casco Bay. It has few hiking trails and no garish attractions—just winding roads good for country drives. (Narrow shoulders and fast cars make for poor biking, however.)
If a steamed lobster is what you want (and you do), several sprawling establishments specialize in delivering the crustaceans fresh from the sea. On the Bailey Island side of the Harpswell Peninsula, Cook’s Lobster & Ale House (www.cookslobster.com; 207/833-2818) has been serving a choice of shore dinners since 1955 and is open year-round—no mean feat in a Maine winter—daily from 11:30am until 9pm in the summer, with a limited pub menu until 11pm, and Wed–Sun 11:30am until 8pm the rest of the year. The restaurant’s deck is unbeatable on nice days. Past Harpswell down Route 123 at the very end of the point (great views), the popular Estes Lobster House (www.esteslobsterhouse.com; 207/833-6340) serves various lobster plates in relaxed, festive surroundings (closed from November to mid-May).
The islands are perfect for a beautiful drive back into an older Maine, and a good lobster dinner at the end of the peninsula (see above), on a good day. But if the weather’s bad, skip it—you’ll just find it monotonous. Note that, as in much of Maine, there is nothing at all to do on the peninsula at night besides enjoy the quiet.
Where to Stay on the Harpswell Peninsula
Toward the southern tip of the peninsula, the character changes as clusters of colorful Victorian-era summer cottages displace the farmhouses found farther inland. Some of these cottages rent by the week, but savvy families book up many of them years in advance. If you’re interested, drop by any local real estate agency (or, increasingly, online rental platforms such as Airbnb and VRBO.)
Driftwood Inn Dating from 1910, the oceanside Driftwood Inn is a family-run retreat at the end of a dead-end road, more or less just a compound of weathered, shingled buildings and a handful of cottages. The rooms of time-aged pine have a simple turn-of-the-last-century flavor that hasn’t been gentrified in the least. Most rooms share bathrooms along the hallways, but some do have private sinks and toilets. (The inn also has seven rooms for solo travelers, a rarity these days.) Cottages on a small, private cove are furnished in budget style: Expect plastic shower stalls and pretty dated furniture, but where else in Maine can you sleep at water’s edge this cheaply? The inn maintains an old saltwater pool and porches with wicker furniture to while away the afternoons, as well. From Route 24 in Bailey Island, cross the bridge and turn left onto Washington Avenue and proceed to the end.
81 Washington Ave., Bailey Island. www.thedriftwoodinnmaine.com. 207/833-5461. 30 rooms (many share hallway bathrooms) and 4 cottages. $105–$130 double; $720–$785 weekly cottage; some units $115–$125 per day off season. No credit cards. Closed Nov–mid-May; dining room closed Labor Day–late June. Amenities: Restaurant; saltwater pool.
Where to Eat on the Harpswell Peninsula
Dolphin Marina and Restaurant TRADITIONAL NEW ENGLANDOne of the premier places for chowder in the state is the down-home Dolphin Marina at Basin Point. Wander inside this Midcoast institution to find a long dining room with a full wall of windows looking out over Casco Bay. Renovated in 2011, this formerly humble shack lost a little character, but it did gain a relaxed bar with TVs (Patriots football is big here) and a pretty gorgeous deck. The legendary fish chowder and lobster stew live up to the hype; they’re reasonably priced ($9–$12) and absolutely delicious, and the blueberry muffins that accompany them, by tradition, are warm and capped with a crispy crown. If you’re more in the mood for steak or pasta or something, it’s your loss, but at least you get the muffin with the rest of the entrees, too. To find it, drive 12 miles south of Brunswick on Route 123, turn right at Ash Point Road near the West Harpswell School, and then take the next right on Basin Point Road and continue to the end.
515 Basin Point Rd. (off Rte. 123), South Harpswell. www.dolphinmarinaandrestaurant.com. 207/833-6000. Sandwiches $9–$14; dinner entrees $18–$36. Memorial Day–Oct daily 11:30am–9pm; Apr–Memorial Day Thurs–Sun 11:30am–8pm. Closed Nov–early Apr.
Exploring the Harpswell Peninsula
There’s no set itinerary for exploring the area. Just drive south from Brunswick on Route 24 or Route 123 until you can’t go any farther, and then backtrack for a bit and strike south again.
Among the “attractions” worth looking for are the wonderful ocean and island views from South Harpswell at the tip of the westernmost peninsula (park and wander around for a bit), and the clever Cribstone Bridge connecting Bailey and Orrs islands. The hump-backed bridge was built in 1928 of granite blocks stacked in such a way that the strong tides could come and go and not drag the bridge out with it. No cement was used in its construction.
A little more than a mile past the bridge, hang a left on Washington Avenue to reach the Giant’s Stairs Trail , a dramatic, half-mile seaside hike with a bunch of great cliffs to clamber around on.
Wiscasset & The Boothbays
Wiscasset is 11 miles NE of Bath; The Boothbays begin 11 miles S of Wiscasset
Wiscasset is a cute riverside town just inland from the Atlantic (no views), and it’s not shy about letting you know: the prettiest village in maine, boasts a sign at the edge of town and on many brochures. Whether or not you agree with this self-assessment (and not all locals do), the town is attractive, even if the persistent line of traffic snaking through the center town through the summer diminishes its charm somewhat. Still, it makes a good stop for stretching one’s legs and grabbing a bite to eat en route to other coastal destinations.
Eagle Island was the summer home of famed Arctic explorer and Portland native Robert E. Peary, who claimed in 1909 to be the first person to reach the North Pole. (We’re still not sure if he did; his accomplishments have been the subject of exhaustive debates among Arctic scholars, some of whom insist he inflated his claims.) Regardless, in 1904 Peary built a simple, shingled home on a remote, 17-acre island at the edge of Casco Bay; in 1912, he added flourishes in the form of two low stone towers. After his death in 1920, his family kept up the home; they later donated it to the state, which has since managed it as a state park, and in 2015, it became a National Historic Landmark. The home is open to the public, maintained much as it was when Peary lived here. Atlantic Seal Cruises (www.atlanticsealcruises.com; 207/865-6112) leads two 3-hour trips a day from Freeport in the summer, with up to 28 passengers aboard (adults $35, kids 5–12 $25; kids 1–5 $20). Marie L Cruises (www.marielcruises.com; 207/833-5343) runs out to the island in a cozy former mailboat, with two trips Friday–Sunday in summers from the Dolphin Marina in South Harpswell (adults $30, kids $15). The trip includes a brief coastal tour and 2 hours to wander the island.
South of Route 1 on Route 27, you’ll pass through the Boothbays, a string of several small, scenic villages down a peninsula—East Boothbay, Boothbay Harbor, and Boothbay—set so close to the ocean that, in some cases, they actually provide frontal views of it. Bland, boxy motels hem in the harbor, where side-by-side boutiques hawk T-shirts emblazoned with puffins (and it is a ghost town in the off-season); still, there’s some charm to be found here among the clutter and cheese, especially on days when foghorns bleat mournfully at the harbor’s mouth.
Essentials
Getting There
Wiscasset is right on U.S. Route 1, between Bath and Damariscotta. Boothbay Harbor is off Route 1, southeast down a peninsula on Route 27; coming from the south, turn right shortly after crossing the bridge in Wiscasset. Both Greyhound (www.greyhound.com; 800/231-2222) and Concord Coach (www.concordcoachlines.com; 800/639-3317) buses stop in Wiscasset.
Visitor Information
As befits a place where tourism is a major industry, the Boothbay region has three visitor information centers in and around town. On U.S. Route 1, at the Route 27 turnoff, there’s an info center open seasonally, a good place to stock up on initial brochures. A mile before you reach the villages is the also-seasonal Boothbay Information Center (open June through October). If you zoom past that one or it’s closed, don’t fret: the year-round Boothbay Harbor Region Chamber of Commerce (www.boothbayharbor.com; 207/633-2353) is at the intersection of routes 27 and 96.
SPECIAL Events
Summer hasn’t truly kicked off in the Boothbay region until the midcoast’s fleet of windjammers—old-school, tall-masted sailing ships (see p. 152) docks in Boothbay Harbor for Windjammer Days (www.windjammerdays.org; 207/633-2353). From the end of June through Fourth of July weekend, as many as a dozen historic ships offer tours and day sails. There’s live music all over town nearly every night of the week, plus a staged pirate invasion, oyster-shucking contests, a race across lobster traps bobbing the bay, a codfish race, and other types of marine tomfoolery.
Where to Stay in The Boothbays
Nothing in the way of budget chains and a lot in the way of seaside resorts and mom-and-pop inns—that’s the lodging scene in the Boothbay region. Make July and August reservations the winter before to count on first-choice lodging in this heavily touristed corner of the state. You can save a little money by snagging a room farther up the peninsula—like the clean, cottage-style doubles at White Anchor Inn (609 Wiscassett Rd., Boothbay; www.whiteanchorinnboothbay.com; 207/633-3788), 3 miles north of Boothbay Harbor on Route 27. Still, since driving around and parking in Boothbay Harbor itself is a bear, it may be worth the extra scratch to enjoy the walkability of lodging in-town. A lot of year-round Boothbanians skip town during the busiest months, so Airbnb-style rentals are plentiful.
Five Gables Inn The handsome Five Gables was built in 1896 and painstakingly restored in the late 1980s; it sits proudly amid a small colony of summer homes on a quiet road above a peaceful cove. It’s nicely isolated from the confusion and hubbub of Boothbay Harbor. Rooms are pleasantly appointed, nearly all of them look out onto the water, and five have fireplaces burning manufactured logs; some also sport four-poster beds. Don’t come expecting televisions or phones—it’s a quiet place lacking both. Room no. 8 is a corner room with morning light and coastal views; room no. 14 is the biggest unit, with more watery views and a fireplace with a marble mantel. Some first-floor rooms open onto a common deck, which means little privacy, so take that into consideration when you’re booking. The inn’s included breakfast buffet is a good one. You’ll find it by driving through East Boothbay on Route 96; turn right at the blinking light onto Murray Hill Road.
Murray Hill Rd., East Boothbay. www.fivegablesinn.com. 207/633-4551. 16 units. $145–$265 double. Rates include breakfast. Closed mid-Oct to May. Children 12 and older welcome. Amenities: Afternoon tea; free Wi-Fi.
Newagen Seaside Inn Newagen is a good, small, low-key resort with stunning ocean views amid a fragrant spruce forest, and there’s been a new push here to renovate everything from rooms to amenities; a spa is said to be on the way. The inn is housed in a low, white-shingled building with cruise ship–like hallways sporting pine wainscoting and a cozy lobby. The 30 guest rooms have polished wood floors, Amish-style quilts, and country-themed decor—but no televisions. Air-conditioning was added to most rooms in 2015, and the bathroom fixtures got a handsome upgrade then, too. Downstairs, adults can relax in a pub or shoot some pool while kids try out the two candlepin lanes. (This may be the only inn in New England with its own bowling alley. If you’re not from New England, know this: Candlepins are maddening. Deal with it.) The 85-acre grounds are filled with decks, gazebos, a handsome in-ground pool, and walkways with magnificent water views. Five cottages with names like “Starfish” and “Spruce” offer additional privacy, eat-in kitchens, and one to three bedrooms each. Take Route 27 south from Boothbay Harbor across the Southport Island bridge, continuing to the south tip of the island.
60 Newagen Colony Rd., Southport. www.newagenseasideinn.com. 800/654-5242 or 207/633-5242. 35 units. $175–$245 double; $255–$345 suite; $375–$425 cottage (week minimum late June–Aug, 3-night minimum spring and fall). Rates include breakfast (inn rooms only). Packages available. Closed mid-Oct–mid-May. Amenities: Dining room; pub; bikes; boat tours; bowling alley; Jacuzzi; heated outdoor pool; saltwater pool; free rowboats; tennis courts; free Wi-Fi.
Spruce Point Inn Resort On a rocky point facing west across the harbor, this inn was built as a hunting and fishing lodge in the 1890s and evolved into a summer resort soon thereafter; some find it a mixed-bag experience, but it has benefited greatly from a spiffing-up that’s been ongoing since the late ’80s, including the addition of 55 deluxe suites with modern amenities such as Jacuzzis, marble bathrooms, private decks, woodstoves, carpeting, and new furniture. Guests typically idle in Adirondack chairs admiring the 15 acres of grounds, or partake of croquet, shuffleboard, and tennis on clay courts. Although it’s more of a couples’ place, children’s programs accommodate a growing number of kids here. The spa is a welcome addition, and the formal dining room enjoys good sunset views across the mouth of the harbor. From Boothbay Harbor, turn seaward on Union Street and continue on 2 miles to the inn.
88 Grandview Ave., Boothbay Harbor. www.sprucepointinn.com. 800/553-0289 or 207/633-4152. 93 units. Late June–Aug $185–$395 double; spring and fall $145–$288 double; year-round $260–$870 cottages and condo. 15% resort tax additional. 3-night minimum stay in summer and some holidays. Closed mid-Oct–mid-May. Some rooms accept pets. Amenities: 2 restaurants; pub; babysitting; concierge; conference rooms; fitness center; Jacuzzi; 2 outdoor pools; tennis court; free bikes; private boat launch; spa; free Wi-Fi.
Get Your Kicks on Route 1? Umm . . . No. |
While there’s a certain retro charm in the idea of traveling Maine on historic Route 1, the reality is quite different. It can be congested (Wiscasset) and unattractive (Waldoboro) in this part of the state, and you’re not missing anything if you take alternative routes. For memorable explorations, be sure to leave enough time for forays both inland and down the lesser roads along the coast.
Topside Inn This old gray house on the hilltop, looming above the town, looks a bit spooky at first glance. Fear not: Topside has spectacular ocean views at a reasonable price from its quiet perch over downtown Boothbay Harbor. The inn—a former boardinghouse for shipyard workers—has simple, clean, comfortable rooms mostly done in whites and pastels, furnished with a mixture of antiques and contemporary furniture. At the edge of the lawn there are two outbuildings stocked with basic motel-style units; these are on the smallish side, though two end units (room nos. 9 and 14) might have the best views on the whole property. Most units allow some glimpse of the water, in fact, and many have decks or patios. Renovations in 2008 and 2013 have left the whole place feeling much fresher than you’d expect from a 19th-century sea captain’s home.
60 McKown St., Boothbay Harbor. www.topsideinn.com. 888/633-5404 or 207/633-5404. 23 units. $189–$309 double. Rates include full breakfast. 2-night minimum weekends, 3-night minimum holiday weekends. Children 6 and older welcome. Closed Dec–Apr. Packages available. Amenities: Shared guest kitchen; free Wi-Fi.
Where to Eat in Wiscasset and the Boothbays
The Boothbays
More creative dining can be found in the dining room of the Spruce Point Inn (see p. 132).
The Lobster Dock LOBSTER Across the harbor footbridge from downtown Boothbay Harbor, this place offers no-frills lobster and seafood; it’s the best pick from a cluster of lobster-in-the-rough places lining the waterfront nearby. Lobsters are priced to market, and there are the usual fried-food baskets and sandwiches for those who don’t dig crustaceans. This is a fine place for a classic Maine outdoor meal on a sunny day (though it’s admittedly less interesting in rain or fog). Beer by the pitcher is a nice touch, the lobster stew is a standout, and don’t skip dessert—I’d honestly come here just for the blueberry pie.
49 Atlantic Ave., Boothbay Harbor. www.thelobsterdock.com 207/633-7120. Sandwiches and grilled foods $6–$25; dinners $18–$29. Memorial Day–Columbus Day daily 11:30am–8:30pm (sometimes as late as 10pm Fri–Sat). Reservations not accepted.
Lobsterman’s Wharf LOBSTER On the water in East Boothbay, the Lobsterman’s Wharf has the comfortable, pubby feel of a popular neighborhood bar, complete with pool table. That makes it popular with locals, but the kitchen also serves better-than-standard meals and knows how to make out-of-towners feel at home. Specials have included a mixed-seafood grill, a barbecue shrimp-and-ribs platter, grilled swordfish with béarnaise sauce, seafood fettuccine, tuna sashimi, and lobsters served at least four different ways. Blueberry pie and chocolate cake make good finishers. At lunch, there are burgers, baked haddock, lobster rolls, and steamed lobsters.
224 Ocean Pt. Rd. (Rte. 96), East Boothbay. www.lobstermanswharf.com. 207/633-3443. Sandwiches $8–$11; dinners $13–$28. Late May–Oct daily 11:30am–10pm (Mon until 3pm). Reservations accepted only for parties of 6 or more. Closed Nov–late May.
Red’s Eats LOBSTER/TAKEOUT Red’s is a tiny red shack next to Route 1 smack in downtown Wiscasset—right where the traffic maddeningly backs up at the bridge—that’s received more than its fair share of national ink and TV attention for its famous lobster rolls. And they are good, mostly judging by volume—so many big, fresh, moist chunks of chilled lobster, you actually can’t see the toasted hot-dog roll beneath. Red’s famously serves its rolls naked, with just a dish of butter and one of mayo on the side. Be aware that they’re pricey—you can find less expensive, less filling versions anywhere else—and that the lines are long. On a bad day, plan to spend 45 minutes to an hour waiting to place your order. (If you’re impatient—or if you happen to believe that the key to a good lobster roll is in a respectable ratio of meat to grilled, buttery bun—then head across the street to Sprague’s, where the lines aren’t nearly as long.) The few tables behind the stand fill up quickly in summer; you can also walk downhill to the public riverfront dock a minute away. Beyond the lobster rolls, very cheap fare (hot dogs, sandwiches) dominates the rest of the menu. You can also get very good ice-cream cones here.
41 Water St. (just before bridge), Wiscasset. www.redseatsmaine.com 207/882-6128. Most sandwiches and entrees $3–$9; lobster rolls typically $15–$25. No credit cards. Mon–Sat 11am–10pm; Sun noon–6pm. Closed Oct–Apr.
Treats BAKERY The long dine-in table in this cool, rustic space is as likely to be occupied by gossiping locals as by vacationing folks just passing through. Baker/chef Josh DeGroot churns out outstanding pastries and perfect savory, well, treats. Don’t miss the luscious cinnamon rolls or the croissants (and sometimes brioche pillows) filled with ham, local cheddar, and Dijon. There’s a cooler full of great sandwiches made with local meats and produce on house-made crusty breads and baguettes and, in the adjoining room, a smart selection of wines, microbrews, and local cheeses (for carry out). Plus newspapers, magazines, some little gifty foodstuffs. Oh, and the place hosts a small indoor farmers market from time to time around harvest season. Think of Treats like a classy artisan general store.
80 Main St., Wiscasset. www.treatsofmaine.com 207/882-6192. Most pastries, tarts, and sandwiches $4–$10. Mon–Sat 8am–6pm, Sun 10am–4pm.
Exploring Wiscasset
Aside from enjoying the town’s handsome architecture and general quaintness, you can find several quirky, low-key attractions good for a break while traveling up along the coast. You’ll also find a handful of worthwhile antiques shops and eateries, as well as the excellent Wiscasset Bay Gallery (67 Main Street), displaying a trove of Monhegan Island landscape painters.
Castle Tucker HISTORIC HOUSE This fascinating museum at the edge of town, overlooking the river, was built in 1807 to resemble a Scottish manor house. It was then radically added onto and altered by a local cotton trader (yes, a cotton trader) named Richard Tucker who in 1858 transformed the house, adding a rather showy piazza and other additions. Thanks to a reversal of fortune, the house wasn’t renovated again—to the benefit of modern visitors, who can see what life was like for high society in Maine in the mid-19th century. Tucker’s daughter eventually donated the home to New England’s antiquities society, which maintains it today; Castle staff give tours of the manse, which features a wonderful, long staircase and trompe-l’oeil-style plaster that looks remarkably like solid wood. Find it overlooking the river (behind Sarah’s Café).
2 Lee St. (at High St.), Wiscasset. www.historicnewengland.org. 207/882-7169. Admission $8. Tours depart hourly Wed–Sun 11am–4pm June–mid-Oct; closed mid-Oct–May.
Nickels-Sortwell House HISTORIC HOUSE Another Historic New England property, this white cube of a Federal-style manor went up in 1807, owned by a prominent sea captain. It’s loaded with antique Colonial Revival furnishing, and tours recall the heyday of Maine’s maritime industry, when boatbuilders and captains were the worldly gentry bringing sophistication to tiny Maine villages .
121 Main St. (at High St.), Wiscasset. www.historicnewengland.org. 207/882-7169. Admission $8. Tours depart every half-hour Fri–Sun 11am–4pm June to mid-Oct; closed mid-Oct–May.
Exploring the Boothbay Region
Boothbay Harbor was just another fishing village until it was “discovered” in the early 20th century by wealthy city folks who built imposing seaside homes here. Once it embraced the tourist dollar, the village never really looked back, and in recent years it has emerged as a premier destination for tourists in search of classic coastal Maine; the village is often a mandatory stop on bus tours, which have in turn attracted kitsch, but some of the outlying areas remain beautiful.
Summer parking in the town requires either great persistence or forking over a few dollars. A popular local attraction is the long, narrow footbridge across the harbor, built in 1901. It’s more of a destination than a link—other than a few restaurants and motels, there’s not much on the other side. The winding streets that weave through town are filled with souvenir shops purveying the usual trinkets. One exception is Gleason Fine Art (31 Townsend Avenue), with a fine selection of works by contemporary Maine artists.
Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens GARDENS This expansive complex of waterside gardens is well worth exploring—both for gardening and landscaping nuts and simply those who appreciate a sylvan place to stroll. Parts of the sprawling property still have an unmanicured feel, with pathways winding through mossy forest, past waterfalls, and in and out pocket gardens with different themes and flowers (plus a village of tiny fairy houses, made from sticks, rocks, and shells, that’ll delight kids). All throughout, the walks are quiet and lush; one of the best trails runs along much of the tidal shoreline that’s part of the property. Mid-November through December, the gardens are lit with hundreds of thousands of LED lights—it’s something to see. From Route 27 in Boothbay Center, bear right at the monument, then make the first right onto Barters Island Road; drive 1 mile to the stone gate on the left.
132 Botanical Gardens Dr., Boothbay (near Hogdon Island). www.mainegardens.org. 207/633-8000. $16 adults, $14 seniors, $8 children age 3–17; rest of year free admission. Mid-Apr–Oct daily 9am–5pm (until 6pm July–Aug). Closed Oct–mid-Apr except for Gardens Aglow events mid-Nov–Dec. 31.
Boothbay Harbor is overrun with summer visitors, but at nearby Ocean Point, you can leave most of the crowds behind by following a picturesque lane that twists along the rocky shore past a colony of vintage summer homes. Follow Route 96 southward from just outside Boothbay Harbor, and you’ll pass through the sleepy village of East Boothbay before continuing on to the point. The narrow road runs through piney forests before arriving at the rocky finger. It’s one of only a handful of Maine peninsulas that have a road edging its perimeter, allowing you fine ocean views. Colorful Victorian-era summer cottages bloom along the roadside like wildflowers. Ocean Point makes for a good bike loop, too; mountain-bike rentals are available from the Tidal Transit folks (see p. 137).
Maine State Aquarium AQUARIUM Operated by the state’s Department of Marine Resources, this compact aquarium offers a context for the marine life in the Atlantic. Kids can view rare albino and blue lobsters, or get their hands wet in a 20-foot touch tank—a sort of petting zoo of the slippery and slimy. The aquarium is located on a point across the water from Boothbay Harbor, and parking is tight; visitors are urged to take the free shuttle bus from downtown that runs daily until 5pm.
194 McKown Point Rd., West Boothbay Harbor. 207/633-9559. $5 adults, $5 seniors, $3 children age 5–12. Mid-May–Sept daily 10am–5pm; closed Oct–mid-May.
Wonderful walks
In good weather, stop by a Boothbay-region information center (see p. 130) and request a free guide to the holdings of the Boothbay Region Land Trust ( 207/633-4818). More than a dozen of its properties dot the peninsula, most with quiet, lightly traveled trails good for a stroll or a picnic. Among the best: the Linekin Preserve , a 95-acre parcel en route to Ocean Point with 600 feet of riverfront. A hike around the loop trail (about 2 miles) occupies a pleasant hour. To find the preserve, drive south from Route 1 in Boothbay Harbor along Route 96 for about 33⁄4 miles, and look for the parking area on the left.
On the Water
The best way to see the Maine coast around Boothbay is on a boat tour. Nearly two dozen tour boats berth at the harbor or nearby. Balmy Days Cruises (www.balmydayscruises.com; 800/298-2284 or 207/633-2284), for instance, runs a half-dozen 90-minute trips daily around the harbor in summertime (mid-June to mid-September) from Pier 8 on Commercial St. for $18 per adult, $9 per child age 3 to 11. If you’d rather be sailing, ask about the five or so 90-minute harbor cruises daily from the same outfit aboard the Friendship sloop the Bay Lady ($30 for adults, $20 for children age 3–11). Schedules are reduced in spring and fall; call ahead for reservations. Balmy Day also runs trips out to Burnt Island ($25 for adults, $15 age 3–11), where Maine’s Department of Marine Resources leads lighthouse tours and hikes around the island. It’s a 15-minute boat trip that gives you 21⁄2 hours on the island.
The most personal way to see the harbor is via sea kayak. Tidal Transit Kayak Co. (www.kayakboothbay.com; 207/633-7140) offers morning, afternoon, full-day, and sunset tours of the harbor for $55 to $100 (sunset’s the best bet). Single kayaks can also be rented for $25 an hour or $55 per day; tandem kayaks and stand-up paddleboards available too. The shop is open daily in summer (except when it rains heavily), and is actually located on a dock at 18 Granary Way.
Pemaquid Peninsula
An irregular, rocky wedge driven deep into the Gulf of Maine, the Pemaquid Peninsula is far less commercial than Boothbay Peninsula across the Damariscotta River; it’s much more suited to relaxed exploration and nature appreciation than its cousin. Rugged and rocky Pemaquid Point, at the extreme southern tip of the peninsula, is one of the most dramatic destinations in Maine, when the ocean surf pounds the shore.
Essentials
arriving
The Pemaquid Peninsula is accessible from the south and west by taking U.S. Route 1 to Damariscotta, then turning south down Route 129/130. Coming from the north or northeast, take U.S. 1 through Waldoboro, then turn south down Route 32 just south of town.
Visitor Information
The Damariscotta Region Chamber of Commerce (www.damariscottaregion.com; 207/563-8340), is a good source of local information. A walk-in information center in the middle of town (at the corner of Main Street and Vine Street) is filled with literature.
Where to Stay on the Pemaquid Peninsula
Seasonal homes and cottage rentals are the dominant summer lodging around the peninsula—try Newcastle Vacation Rentals (www.mainecoastcottages.com; 207/563-6500) or the usual online rental platforms (Airbnb, HomeAway, and so on). For shorter stays, you’re looking at B&Bs and small, often time-worn inns.
Bradley Inn The Bradley Inn is within easy hiking or biking distance to the point, but there are plenty of reasons to lag behind at the inn, too. Wander the nicely landscaped grounds or settle in for a game of cards at the pub. The rooms are tastefully appointed with four-poster cherry beds (though no televisions). The third-floor rooms are the best despite the hike up to them, thanks to distant glimpses of John’s Bay, and a high-ceilinged second-floor suite occupying the entire floor is equipped with a full kitchen and dining room. The inn is popular for summer weekend weddings, so ask in advance if you’re seeking solitude and quiet. A seaside spa, opened in 2007, offers a menu of wellness services.
3063 Bristol Rd. (Route 130), New Harbor. www.bradleyinn.com. 800/942-5560 or 207/677-2105. 16 units. $180–$255 double; $275–$475 suite and cottage. Rates include full breakfast and afternoon tea. Packages available. Closed Jan–Mar. Amenities: Dining room; pub; free bikes; room service; spa, free Wi-Fi.
Hotel Pemaquid This 1889 coastal classic isn’t directly on the water—it’s about a 2-minute walk from Pemaquid Point—but the main inn has the flavor of an old-time boardinghouse. Outbuildings are a bit more modern. Though most rooms now have private bathrooms and flatscreen TVs, the inn is still old-fashioned at its core, with a no-credit-cards policy, narrow hallways, and antiques, including a great collection of old radios and phonographs. It could be better, but it is what it is, and some guests love that. The two- and three-bedroom suites—one with a sun porch and one with a kitchen—are good for families, and there are cottages and a carriage house rented by the week.
3098 Bristol Rd. (Rte. 130), Pemaquid Point. www.hotelpemaquid.com. 207/677-2312. 33 units (4 with shared bathroom). $115–$142 double with private bathroom; $99 double with shared bathroom; $174–$255 suite; $985–$1775 cottage weekly. 2-night minimum stay on weekends. No credit cards. Closed mid-Oct–mid-Apr. Amenities: Free Wi-Fi in main lobby.
Where to Eat on the Pemaquid Peninsula
Coveside Bar and Restaurant PUB It’s not much more than a small marina with a pennant-bedecked lounge and basic knotty-pine-paneled dining room, but this is a locals’ favorite hangout in Christmas Cove. The food’s pubby, the beer list is solid, and the views are outstanding. You might even catch a glimpse of the celebrity yachtsmen who tend to stop off here. Reservations are a good idea on summer weekends.
105 Coveside Rd., Christmas Cove (South Bristol). www.covesiderestaurant.com. 207/644-8282. Entrees $11–$26. Daily 11am–9pm. Closed Nov–Apr.
Crissy’s Breakfast & Coffee Bar BREAKFAST/BAKERY It’s worth the short wait you’ll often encounter on weekend mornings for the Latin-tinged plates and sweet treats at this bright and cute café and bakery. Specialties like huevos rancheros, pulled pork hash, and enchiladas and eggs are generous and piquant, and the lunch menu has favorites carnitas tacos and a perfectly griddled Cuban sandwich. It’s the small touches that make the place, though: the little blueberry muffin bites on every table, the basket of children’s books for the kids. The many-partitioned dining room (it’s an old residential home) makes for an intimate feeling breakfast no matter how crowded the place gets.
212 Main St., Damariscotta. www.cbandcb.com. 207/563-6400. Breakfast items and sandwiches $6–$10. Wed–Sun 8am–2pm. Reservations suggested for groups of 6 or more.
Spotlight on maine diners, Part #2
An entire book could be written about Moody’s Diner (
207/832-7785) in Waldoboro—in fact, it has. This is the place to stop on Route 1 when traversing north toward Acadia and points beyond. Not because the food’s amazing so much as it’s simply throwback to an earlier time: sticky-sweet pies and only-in-Maine specials like boiled dinner on Thurs, haddock with egg sauce on Fri, and of course, baked beans on Sat. The place simply serves food you can find almost nowhere else in the state, the old food ways are disappearing that fast. Finish with Indian pudding or one of those mile-high pies—walnut cream and rhubarb are two good choices, though any of them will satisfy. The prices, too, seem nearly locked in 1948, which is when Moody’s first opened for business.
Shaw’s Fish and Lobster Wharf LOBSTER Shaw’s attracts hordes of tourists, but it’s no trick to figure out why: It’s one of the best-situated lobster pounds, with postcard-perfect views of the working harbor. You can stake out a seat on either the open deck or the indoor dining room (go for the deck), or order some appetizers from the raw bar. This is one of the few lobster joints in Maine with a full liquor license, and the lobster rolls are considered by experts (okay, eaters like me) to be some of Maine’s best.
129 Rte. 32, New Harbor. 207/677-2200. Lobster priced to market (typically $10 per pound), entrees $12–$25. Mid-May–mid-Oct daily 11am–8pm. Closed mid-Oct–mid-May.
Exploring the Pemaquid Peninsula
The Pemaquid Peninsula invites slow driving and frequent stops. At the head of the harbor, Damariscotta and Newcastle are twin towns with a couple of good pubs, an artisan butcher, a food co-op, and a great bookstore in Sherman’s Maine Coast Book Shop (158 Main St.; www.shermans.com; 207/563-3207). There’s even a fine organic distillery in Split Rock Distilling (16 Osprey Point Rd.; www.splitrockdistilling.com; 207/563-2669), and one of the coolest places you’ll ever drink beer in the middle of the woods: Oxbow Brewing Company (274 Jones Woods Rd.; www.oxbowbeer.com; 207/315-5962). The Damariscotta River that runs through middle of town is one of the country’s richest oystering grounds; paddlers can rent a boat from Midcoast Kayak at 47 Maine Street (www.midcoastkayak.com; 207/563-5732) to explore the estuary. Two-hour to full-day rentals $28–$50.
Head south on Route 129 (Bristol Road) and you’ll first hit sleepy Walpole, where the road splits. Keep following Route 129 (the right-hand road) and you’ll pass the austerely handsome Walpole Meeting House, dating from 1772. Though it’s usually not open to the public, services are held here during the summer and the public is welcome. Keep going another 10 miles; at the end of the road you’ll find picturesque Christmas Cove, so named because Captain John Smith (of Pocahontas fame) anchored here on Christmas Day in 1614.
On Route 32 at the eastern end of New Harbor, look for signs pointing to the Rachel Carson Salt Pond Preserve , a Nature Conservancy property, where noted naturalist Rachel Carson studied tide pools extensively while researching her 1956 bestseller The Edge of the Sea. Another couple miles up Route 32, you’ll also find the La Verna Preserve , with 3 miles of trail and some great rocky beaches. Both preserves are wonderful spots for budding naturalists and experts alike. At low tide, you can see horseshoe crabs, periwinkles, barnacles, and maybe the occasional starfish in the tidal pools and among the rocks.
If instead you take the left-hand road at the Walpole split—Route 130—in 10 miles or so you’ll reach the village of New Harbor. Look for signs west to Colonial Pemaquid State Historic Site ( 207/677-2423). Open daily from Memorial Day to Labor Day, this state historic site has exhibits on the original 1625 settlement here; archaeological digs take place in the summertime. The $3 admission charge ($1 for children 5–11) includes a visit to stout Fort William Henry, a 1907 replica of a supposedly impregnable fortress. Nearby Pemaquid Beach is good for a (chilly) ocean dip or a picnic with the family.
But Pemaquid Point , owned by the town of Bristol, should be your final destination; it’s the place to while away an afternoon ( 207/677-2492). The lighthouse is one of Maine’s most photographed, the cluttered museum in the keeper’s house is a trip, and the gnarly rock ledges stretching out in front of the lighthouse are good for an hour of climbing. Bring a picnic and a book, and find a spot on the dark, fractured rocks to settle in. The ocean views are superb, and the only distractions are the tenacious seagulls that might take a profound interest in your lunch. While you’re here, Pemaquid Beach Park is also worth a visit; there’s a small admissions charge.
Route 32, which strikes northwest out of New Harbor, is the most scenic way to leave the peninsula if you plan on continuing eastward on Route 1 to places such as Camden and Rockland (see Chapter 7).
On the Water
From New Harbor, you can get a great view of the coast from the sea by taking a boat trip. Hardy Boat Cruises (www.hardyboat.com; 207/677-2026) operates summertime tours aboard the 60-foot Hardy III, and excursions include a 1-hour seal-watch cruise ($16 for adults, $12 for children age 3–11) and a highly acclaimed 90-minute puffin tour out to Eastern Egg Rock ($30 for adults, $12 for children age 3–11). Yes, you will see puffins. Extra clothing for warmth is strongly recommended, because it gets chilly out on the sea. The company operates from mid- or late May through Labor Day. Finally, the Hardy Boat runs a ferry to Monhegan Island (see p. 141).
Monhegan Island 
is Maine’s premier island getaway. Visited by Europeans as early as 1497, the wild, remote island was settled by fishermen attracted to the sea’s bounty in offshore waters. In the 1870s, artists discovered the island and stayed for a spell, including Rockwell Kent (the artist most closely associated with the island), George Bellows, Edward Hopper, and Robert Henri.
It’s not hard to figure out why artists have been attracted to this place, with its almost-mystical sense of tranquility. It’s also a superb destination for hikers, since most of the island is undeveloped and laced with footpaths.
Just be aware that this is not Martha’s Vineyard. There’s one ATM on Monhegan, and few pay phones—heck, even electricity is scarce. That’s what most visitors seem to like about it, and an overnight at one of the island’s very simple inns is strongly recommended if you’ve got time; the island’s true character doesn’t emerge until the last day boat sails back to the mainland. If you just can’t stomach the complete quiet and the lack of phones, TVs, and late-night takeout, day trips are also easy to arrange.
Essentials
arriving
Access to Monhegan Island is via boat from New Harbor, Boothbay Harbor, or Port Clyde. The picturesque trip from Port Clyde is the favorite route of longtime visitors; the boat passes the Marshall Point Lighthouse and a series of spruce-clad islands before reaching the open sea and plying its way island-ward.
Several boats make the run to Monhegan from little Port Clyde. The Laura B is a doughty workboat (building supplies and boxes of food are loaded on first; passengers fill in the available niches on the deck and in the small cabin), and makes the run in about 11⁄4 hours. A newer boat—the slightly faster, passenger-oriented Elizabeth Ann—also makes the run, offering a large heated cabin and more seating, in about 50 minutes. You’ll need to leave your car behind, so pack light and wear sturdy shoes. The fare is $35 round-trip for adults, $20 for children ages 2 to 12, and $5 for pets. They do take credit cards, but reservations are advised. Contact Monhegan Boat Line (www.monheganboat.com; 207/372-8848). Parking is available just off the Port Clyde dock for $7 per day.
You can also get out here from New Harbor (see p. 140) by boarding a Hardy Boat (www.hardyboat.com; 800/278-3346) to Monhegan. There are two departures daily in the summer and 3 days a week in the shoulder season, with round-trip fares $36 adults, $20 for children age 3–11.
Finally, if you’re in coming from the Boothbays (see p. 129), Balmy Days (www.balmydayscruises.com; 800/298-2284 or 207/633-2284) also does a Monhegan run in summer, from mid-June through early October (and weekends only for a couple weeks on either side of that). The boat leaves once daily at 9:30am, drops you off, and touches the island again at 4:15pm: perfect for day-trippers. (Or day-and-a-half-trippers.) The round-trip costs $38 for adults, $19 for children age 3 to 11.
Visitor Information
Monhegan Island has no formal visitor center, but it’s small and friendly enough that you can make inquiries of just about anyone you meet on the island pathways. Clerks at the ferry dock in Port Clyde may also be helpful. Be sure to pick up the inexpensive map of the island’s hiking trails at the ticket office or various shops around the island. Also, a great website maintained by island residents dispenses very complete info to first-time visitors. Find it on the web at www.monheganwelcome.com.
Where to Stay & Eat on Monhegan Island
Things have changed—a little—since the day when you had zero options for sleeping or dining overnight on Monhegan, and had to retreat to the mainland. There are a handful of cottages, simple inns, and plain restaurants on the island (and, at last check, at least one Airbnb rental). In a pinch, hit L. Brackett & Son (222 Monhegan Ave., 207/594-2222) for picnic supplies.
Monhegan House The handsome Monhegan House has been accommodating guests since 1870, and it has the comfortable, worn patina of a venerable lodging house. The accommodations at this four-story walk-up are austere but comfortable, more so after recent renovations; it’s a bit pricey, though, for what you get. There are no closets, and everyone uses clean dormitory-style bathrooms except those who stay in one of two newish two-bedroom suites. The downstairs lobby with fireplace is a welcome spot to sit and take the fog-induced chill out of your bones, since it can get cool on the island even in August. A dining room serves dinner nightly during the short summer season, and Monhegan’s first public Wi-Fi hotspot (never thought I’d be writing that sentence) and ATM are in the casual eatery, the Novelty, behind the inn, which proudly touts its whoopee pies. Yes, if you’re not a New Englander, those are a real food. Damned yummy, too.
Across the road from the church, Monhegan Island. www.monheganhouse.com. 207/594-7983. 28 units (most with shared bathroom). $125–$179 double; $199–$229 suite. Rates include breakfast. Closed Oct to late May. Amenities: 2 restaurants; free Wi-Fi (with bandwidth limitations).
Trailing Yew At the end of long summer afternoons, guests congregate near the flagpole in front of the main building of this simple, rustic hillside compound. They’re waiting for the ringing of the bell that signals the start of the included-for-a-fee dinner, just like at summer camp. Inside, guests sit around long tables, introduce themselves to their neighbors, and wait for the family-style repast. This is a friendly, informal place popular with hikers and birders. Guest rooms are simply furnished in a pleasantly dated, summer-home style. Only one of the four guest buildings has electricity, however—guests in rooms without electricity are provided kerosene lamps and instructions for their use. Also, all rooms are unheated. Rates here are charged per person: $110 for a single adult, less for groups of two or more and for children (prorated according to age).
Lobster Cove Rd. www.trailingyew.com. 207/596-0440. 37 units (36 with shared bathroom). $150 (2 adults) double; children’s rates differ according to age. Rates include a full breakfast. No credit cards. Packages available. Closed mid-Oct–mid-May. Amenities: Dining room, some rooms have shared kitchens.
You may find the tearing into a whole lobster a bit uncouth, or just intimidating. Or the monster shore dinner of a whole lobster with mussels, clams, corn, and other fixin’s may just be more than you want to take on. Lucky for you, the spiraling popularity of the lobster roll has made it so you can taste Maine’s quintessential shellfish basically anywhere you go. The classic Maine lobster roll is cold, fresh-picked lobster served on a buttered and lightly griddled hot dog bun (the split-top New England variety, not the side-split version found elsewhere around the country), then complemented with a touch of mayo to bind it. Some eschew mayo and go instead for drawn butter (if the lobster’s served hot, this is known as “Connecticut-style”). There’s much acrimony over whether a lobster roll ought to contain anything else—some fancy a bit of celery or lettuce for crunch, while purists will tell you this is an abomination. The crazy gastronomes down in Portland have taken to adding everything from wasabi powder to jalapeños to bacon.
Exploring Port Clyde
Port Clyde is located at the tip of a long finger of land about 15 miles south of Route 1. Its charm derives from the fact that it’s still just a fishing village. While some small-scale tourist enterprises have made their mark here, it caters primarily to working fishermen and the ferrymen who keep Monhegan supplied. The area also attracts a lot of artists; check out Barbara Prey Projects at 855 Main Street, a gallery featuring one of Maine’s most successful current artists.
Head to the Port Clyde General Store on the waterfront and soak up the cracker-barrel ambience (there’s actually a decent selection of wine here, attesting to encroaching upscale-ism). Order a sandwich to go, and then drive to the Marshall Point Lighthouse Museum (www.marshallpoint.org; 207/372-6450)—to find it, follow the road along the harbor east and bear right to reach the point. The museum opens weekends only during May, then daily from Memorial Day until Columbus Day. Does it look somehow familiar? It is: This small lighthouse received a few moments of fame when Forrest Gump turned around here and headed back west during his cross-country walks in the movie, but it also happens to be one of the most peaceful and scenic lighthouses in the state.
Exploring Monhegan
Walking is the chief activity on Monhegan island; it’s genuinely surprising how much distance you can cover on these 700 acres (about 11⁄2 miles long and 1⁄2 mile wide). The village clusters tightly around the harbor; the rest of the island is mostly wild land, laced with 17 miles of trails.
Much of the island is ringed with high, open bluffs atop fissured cliffs; pack a picnic lunch and hike the perimeter trail , spending much of the day sitting, reading, and enjoying the surf rolling in against the cliffs. The inland trails are appealing in a far different way. Deep, dark Cathedral Woods is mossy and fragrant; sunlight only dimly filters through the evergreens to the forest floor.
Birding is also a popular spring and fall activity. The island is right on the Atlantic flyway, and a wide variety of birds stop here during annual migrations.
The sole attraction on the island is the good Monhegan Museum (www.monheganmuseum.org; 207/596-7003), at 1 Lighthouse Hill next to the 1824 lighthouse on a high point above the village. The museum, open for only a short season (11:30am–3:30pm daily July–Aug, 1:30–3:30pm daily late June and Sept), holds a quirky collection of historical artifacts and provides context for this rugged island’s history. Nearby is a small and select art museum that opened in 1998 and features changing exhibits showcasing the works of illustrious island artists, including Rockwell Kent. There’s no admission charge.
The spectacular view from the grassy slope in front of the lighthouse is the real prize, though. The vista sweeps across a marsh, past the historic Monhegan House Hotel (see p. 142), taking in Manana Island and across the sea beyond. Get here early if you want a good seat for the sunset; folks often congregate here after dinner for the view.
Mid-afternoon on Monhegan, before the ferries start showing up, has evolved into a sort of ritualistic happy hour ever since Monhegan Brewing Company (www.monheganbrewing.com) opened at 1 Boody Lane in 2013. The beer is much better than you’d expect 10 miles out to sea, based on recipes by Maine brewing pioneer Danny McGovern, the longtime brewmaster at Belfast’s Marshall Wharf Brewing Company. Closed mid-October through April, it begins to open for weekends in May and is open daily throughout the summer months.
Artists are still attracted to this island in great numbers (notably Jamie Wyeth, whose home can be seen from a distance in picturesque Lobster Cove), and many open their studios to visitors during posted hours in summer. Some of the artwork runs along the lines of predictable seascapes and sunsets, but much of it rises above the banal. Look for the bulletin board along the main pathway in the village for a listing of the days and hours the studios are open.
