207/255-4402), on Route 1. It’s open 10am to 3pm on weekdays. For more information on the Eastport area, contact the Eastport Chamber of Commerce (www.eastport.net; 207/853-4644).The Downeast Coast
The term Downeast, as in “Downeast Maine,” comes from the days when ships were still powered by sail. East Coast ships heading north and east along this coastline had strong prevailing winds at their backs—making it an easy “downhill” run to the farthest eastern ports. (Returning took more skill and determination.)
Today it’s a rare traveler who gets Downeast to explore the rugged coastline of Washington County. Very few tourists venture beyond the turnoff to Mount Desert Isle, discouraged by a lack of services and high-marquee attractions. Yet Downeast Maine does have appeal—so long as you’re not looking for luxury. There’s an authenticity here that’s been lost in much of the rest of Maine. Many longtime visitors say this is how all of Maine used to look in the 1940s and 1950s, when writers and artists first arrived in earnest. Thai food, the New York Times, and designer coffee have yet to make serious inroads into Washington County, where a rugged, hardscrabble way of life and tough interdependence among neighbors still predominates. And yet, just when you think you have the Downeast coast pegged, you encounter some oddball little pocket of artsy wonder or creative-class entrepreneurship with a salty tinge.
Many residents here still get by as their forebears did—scratching a living from the land and sea. Scalloping, lobstering, and fishing remain the major sources of income, as do blueberrying, logging, and other forest work. Grubbing for bloodworms in spring, picking berries in the barrens in late summer, climbing fir trees to get the fragrant tips for Christmas wreaths in the fall—that’s not a vacation around here, that’s what people do to make ends meet. In recent years aquaculture has also become an important part of the economy around Passamaquoddy and Cobscook bays; travelers can sometimes see vast floating pens, especially around Eastport and Lubec, where salmon are farmed for gourmet diners worldwide.
The geographical isolation of this region ensures that you’ll have these back roads and tiny towns to yourself—most of your fellow travelers have been waylaid by the charms of Kennebunkport, Portland, Camden, or Acadia. But if you’re hoping to get a peek at the Maine that rarely shows up on the tourist brochures, you’d be wise to make a trip here for a day or two. You might never see Maine the same way again.
At the end of your coastal exploration, you can also take a bridge to another country—and another time zone—by visiting New Brunswick, Canada, even if only for a few hours. You’ll need a valid passport for that.
Essentials
Arriving
Downeast Maine is usually reached via U.S. Route 1, coming northeast from Ellsworth. You can also take a more direct, less congested route via Route 9 from Brewer (across the river from Bangor), connecting to Route 1 via Route 193 or Route 192.
Visitor Information
For information on the Machias area and other parts of Downeast Maine, contact the Machias Bay Area Chamber of Commerce, 85 Main St., suite 2 (www.machiaschamber.org; 207/255-4402), on Route 1. It’s open 10am to 3pm on weekdays. For more information on the Eastport area, contact the Eastport Chamber of Commerce (www.eastport.net; 207/853-4644).
Special Events
Eastport celebrates the Fourth of July in extravagant fashion each year, a tradition that began in 1820 after the British gave up possession of the city (they captured it during the War of 1812). Some 15,000 New Englanders pour into this little city of 1,900 for the 4-day event, which includes pie-eating competitions, codfish racing (that’s a relay while holding a dead fish, in case you didn’t know), a flotilla of boats and ships in the harbor, a huge torch-lit parade (Maine’s largest), parachutes, pipe bands, and the like. They go over-the-top, culminating in impressive (for the town’s size) fireworks.
The popular Machias Wild Blueberry Festival 
, operated by the local Congregation Church, celebrates the local cash crop each summer. Washington County claims to produce an astonishing 85% of the world’s wild blueberry harvest, so there’s bound to be some for the tasting when you show up. The festivities typically begin with a children’s parade and fish fry, continue with a Saturday blueberry pancake breakfast (of course) and road race, then move on to lobster feeds, the raffling of a blueberry quilt, a book sale, a masquerade ball in an old Grange Hall, and (of course) a blueberry-pie-eating contest. There are also performances and the sales of blueberry-theme gift items. Stamp collectors should plan to drop by the local post office for special-issue cancellation stamps, uniquely themed to blueberries each year. Check the festival website (www.machiasblueberry.com) or contact the Machias chamber of commerce (see above) for the exact dates of the festival; it’s usually in mid- to late August.
The Eastport Salmon Festival (www.eastportsalmonfestival.com; 207/853-6122) takes over town each year during the first weekend after Labor Day, with a very full weekend of arts, crafts, a road race, a sailboat race, a walking tour, and plenty of seafood.
Where to Stay & Eat on the Downeast Coast
Where to Stay In Downeast Maine
Small motels, inns, and B&Bs abound along this part of the Maine coast, and resorts are almost nonexistent. The message: Prepare to rusticate. Your main bases for the region are Machias and Lubec/Eastport.
Budget travelers can do well here. Lower-end offerings on Route 1 in Machias include the Machias River Inn, with 35 air-conditioned riverside rooms (www.machiasriverinn.com; 207/255-4861), and the Bluebird Motel (www.bluebirdmotelmaine.com; 207/255-3333), with 40 air-conditioned units. There are also budget options in Jonesboro, Lubec, and Eastport.
You might also consider renting a cottage or farmhouse by the week or month; there are plenty to choose from on this stretch of coast in summer, and finding them is increasingly easy, as Downeast Maine gradually adopts Airbnb and other online rental platforms. Among the offerings, check out the unique Quoddy Head Station (www.quoddyvacation.com; 877/535-4714), on West Quoddy Head Road in Lubec. It’s a former Coast Guard lifesaving station, built in 1918, with five bedrooms; there are also five other units, all with terrific coastal views. Rentals in July and August are $120 to $330 per night or $800 to $2,200 per week—rates are lowest during the shoulder seasons.
Black Duck Inn 
There isn’t much to the little village of Corea—mostly just a clutch of fishing boats and some island views—but there is a year-round bed-and-breakfast if you care to stay the night. The new 30-something owners of the Black Duck have freshened up the two no-frills rooms (which share a bathroom, while the others have private facilities), one suite, and one waterfront cottage. It’s a simple place set among quiet scenery. The first floor is a gallery for local art, and the rooms feature a mix of antique and vintage furnishings; three, including the cottage, have excellent vistas of the picturesque harbor and the lupine-strewn headland.
36 Crowley Island Rd., Corea. www.blackduck.com. 
207/963-2689. 4 units (2 with shared bathroom). $135–$300 double. Full breakfast included. Amenities: Free Wi-Fi.
Crocker House Country Inn Built in 1884, this handsome shingled inn is off the beaten track on picturesque Hancock Point, across Frenchman Bay from Mount Desert Island. It’s a cozy retreat, good for rest, relaxation, and quiet walks; it’s only about a 4-minute walk from the water’s edge. Rooms are tastefully decorated in country decor; there’s nothing lavish here, but they’re way comfortable. The common areas are more relaxed than fussy. The inn has a few bikes for guests to explore the point, visit the second-smallest post office in the U.S., or drop by the nearby clay tennis courts. Dinner is a highlight: it’s served in a fun atmosphere. Open daily May through October (weekends in several other months), the kitchen serves mostly traditional favorites, such as oysters Rockefeller, scallops, fish, pasta, steak au poivre, and lamb.
967 Point Rd., Hancock Point. www.crockerhouse.com. 207/422-6806. 11 units. $100–$165 double. Rates include full breakfast. Closed Jan–mid-April. Pets welcome. Amenities: Dining room; free bikes, free Wi-Fi.
Home Port Inn Built as a family home in 1880, the Home Port was converted into lodgings in 1982. On a quiet street in downtown Lubec, its rooms mostly offer tremendous views of both Cobscook Bay and the Bay of Fundy. The central living room and fireplace are the focal points; comfy guest rooms vary in size, with one occupying a former library and another a former dining room. Best bed? The Garden Overlook’s king-size bed. Best view? The room known as the Bay View, of course. Breakfasts are simple, granola and muffins (blueberry, of course).
45 Main St., Lubec. 800/457-2077 or 207/733-2077. 7 units. $99–$135 double. Rates include continental breakfast. Closed mid-Oct–mid-May. Amenities: Restaurant; free Wi-Fi.
Ironbound Located on Route 1 about 10 minutes east of Ellsworth, this inn has five rooms above an occasionally boisterous pub and restaurant, along a stretch of Route 1 that can be a bit noisy. The landscaped garden out back offers plenty of serenity, though, as does the second-floor deck reserved for guests. Rooms are comfortable and tastefully appointed without being pretentious, with a mix of antique and contemporary furnishings. A shared sitting room has a crackling fireplace and a small library with a collection of Maine-focused books. But the real draw is the restaurant , serving comforting bistro fare with a lot of local fish and forage, all in a handsome space of pine-wood floors and a big fireplace. Meals run to finnan haddie (haddock with cream sauce, a classic Downeast treat), a big rib-eye in wine-shallot sauce, lamb sliders, and the ubiquitous lobster mac and cheese. They mix a mean cocktail behind the big bar.
1513 U.S. Rte. 1, Hancock. www.ironboundinn.com. 207/422-3395. 5 units. June–Oct $145 double; $185 suite. Rates include full breakfast and dinner. Closed Nov–May. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; free Wi-Fi.
Kilby House An unassuming Queen Anne built in 1887 by one Herbert Kilby, 19th century mariner and town father, the Kilby House is today run by retired teacher Greg Noyes, who tends the place lovingly. The small rooms get a lot of light and are furnished with antiques recalling the inn’s late Victorian era. No air-conditioning, but crack a window on a warm day to enjoy the sea breeze—you can see the water right across the quiet, residential street. Common spaces include a downstairs drawing room with a fireplace, a formal dining room, and a music room with a grand piano—if you ask your innkeeper nicely, he might just play it.
122 Water St., Eastport. www.kilbyhouseinn.com. 207/853-0989 or 800/853-4557. 4 units (all with shared bathroom). $90–$105 double. Rates include full breakfast. No children. Amenities: Free Wi-Fi.
Margaretta Inn 
New ownership in 2014 turned this formerly tired roadside motorlodge (formerly the Margaretta Motel) into a really lovely and up-to-date boutique inn with a throwback vibe. Top-to-bottom renovations gave the rooms handsome hardwood floors, all-new bathroom fixtures, heated bathroom floors, nice mattresses with thick duvet covers, flat-screen TVs in every room, keyless entry, Keurig coffee machines, mini-fridges, and microwaves. Real Maine maple syrup and fresh berries are nice touches on the continental breakfast. In general, the inn displays a level of cleanliness and attention to detail not commonly found in Downeast roadside lodging.
330 Main St, Machias. www.margarettainn.com. 207/255-6671. 12 units. $89–$120 double. Rates include continental breakfast. Closed Jan–May. Amenities: Free Wi-Fi.
Micmac Farm Based in a 1763 home with intriguing history (the founder’s family is buried in a cemetery on the premises), quiet Micmac Farm consists of just three units in a peaceful riverside setting: two rustic wood-paneled “guesthouses” in the woods (each furnished with two double beds and a kitchenette) and a more luxurious guest room located inside the main house with a big deck, king-size bed, television, and Jacuzzi tub. This third room also adjoins the home’s library, which guests are welcome to use. An outdoor deck overlooks the Machias River, and it’s a good spot for watching the water.
47 Micmac Lane (Rte. 92), Machiasport. www.micmacfarm.com. 207/255-3008. 3 units. $125 main house double; $105 daily or $650 weekly cottage double. Pets and children welcome in cottages. Amenities: Free Wi-Fi.
Milliken House B&B Guests at this friendly B&B are greeted with glasses of port or sherry in a big living room sporting two fireplaces. It’s a nice welcome, and the five rooms are equally nice, done up in marble-top furnishings and outfitted with the original owner’s collection of books. (Benjamin Milliken had made a small fortune building a dock and outfitting the big ships passing in and out of this once-busy port during Eastport’s 19th-century heyday.) Expect small touches such as pillow-side chocolates and fresh flowers. All rooms feature televisions and fireplaces, something of a surprise given the low, low price. The house is located only 2 blocks from Eastport’s historic district, making it ideal for local explorations. Breakfast might run to buttermilk pancakes served with a berry sauce, crepes, or a quiche Lorraine, sided with homemade bread.
29 Washington St., Eastport. www.eastport-inn.com. 207/853-2955. 6 units. $90–$100 double. Rates include full breakfast. Well-trained pets welcome. Amenities: Free Wi-Fi in common areas.
Peacock House Bed & Breakfast Built in out-of-the-way Lubec by an English sea captain in 1860, the Peacock House has over the years hosted prominent Mainers including U.S. senators Margaret Chase Smith and Edmund Muskie. The three second-floor rooms are queen-size-bedded and simple; the Margaret Chase Smith Suite has a queen-size bed, while the king-size-bedded Meadow Suite has the inn’s largest bathroom and a sitting area. (It’s accessible for guests with limited mobility.) The Peacock Suite is the most romantic choice, with a gas fireplace, four-poster queen-size bed, wet bar, refrigerator, and TV with DVD player. Tinkle the keys of the living room’s baby grand piano, if you like: It’s allowed and even encouraged.
27 Summer St., Lubec. www.peacockhouse.com. 888/305-0036 or 207/733-2403. 7 units. $105–$150 double. Rates include full breakfast. 2-night minimum on June–Sept weekends. No children 9 and under. Amenities: Library; free Wi-Fi.
Redclyffe Shore Motor Inn I don’t recommend many motor inns or motels in this book, but this one packs a great deal more historic and scenic punch than most. The complex, consisting of a Gothic Revival main house dating from the 1860s (note the steep gables) and a cluster of motel units, perches on a cliff with awesome views of Passamaquoddy Bay and the St. Croix River. Book one of the so-called “patio rooms” with a private balcony for maximum gazing access. Whether in the main house or the motel section, all the quite dated double- and king-size-bedded rooms and suites here sport the basics: phones, televisions, and coffeemakers. The balcony rooms are a steal considering the views, and the glassed-in restaurant—open every night, including to non-guests, serving standard American meals—features yet another knockout ocean view. Remember, however, that there’s no breakfast service here—you’ll need to head elsewhere for that.
Rte. 1, Robbinston. www.redclyffeshoremotorinn.com. 207/454-3270. 16 units. $85–$125 double. Closed Nov to mid-May. Amenities: Restaurant; free Wi-Fi.
Riverside Inn This far downeast, it isn’t easy to find a frilly place, but the four-room Riverside Inn outside of Machias offers more than the usual motel in these parts does. The second-floor Mrs. Chase Room, named for the former captain’s wife, has a claw-foot tub and skylight. The two-bedroom Lower Coach Suite features a wraparound deck overlooking the river and the inn’s garden, while the popular Upper Coach Suite has even better views—from a private balcony—plus a small kitchen. Rooms are uniformly attractive and clean. The restaurant serves surprisingly fancy dinner entrees such as lobster and scallops in champagne sauce, almond-crusted fish filets, beef Wellington, pistachio-crusted pork medallions with a cranberry-plum chutney, and the like. (The restaurant is closed in winter, though the inn remains open year-round.)
622 Rte. 1, E. Machias. www.riversideinn-maine.com. 207/255-4134. 4 units. $89–$135 double. Rates include breakfast. Amenities: Restaurant; free Wi-Fi.
Todd House Bed & Breakfast A bright yellow house out on Todd’s Head overlooking Cobscook and Passamaquoddy bays, this 1775 Cape features classic New England architectural touches such as a huge center chimney and a fireplace with bake oven. It has served as everything from a former Mason’s Hall to temporary military barracks; today, the six inn rooms come in various configurations. Two rooms have kitchenettes. The ocean views are a draw, as are proprietor Ruth McInnis’s collection of artifacts, from Revolutionary War items to Wabanki arrowheads. The inn is only about a .75-mile walk from Eastport’s burgeoning downtown district.
1 Capen Ave., Eastport. www.toddhousemaine.com. 207/853-2328. 6 units (3 with shared bathroom). $80–$110 double. Rates include self-service breakfast (no breakfast in winter). No credit cards. Pets welcome. Amenities: Free Wi-Fi.
Those with RVs can camp out at Pleasant River RV Park at 11 W. Side Road in Addison (www.pleasantriverrv.com; 207/483-4083). It’s open May through October, though it only has a half-dozen sites from which to choose. Schoodic Peninsula, part of Acadia National Park (see p. 185) also has a number of good campsites. Over the Canadian border in New Brunswick, there’s camping at Herring Cove Provincial Park ( 506/752-7010) for C$20 to C$25 (US$15–$19), with discounts for seniors. The campground has 76 sites in all, some for tents, some with electrical hookups (some on the beach).
Where To Eat In Downeast Maine
Good places to eat are thin on the ground up here. If you’re lucky, your hotel has a dining room (see reviews for the Crocker House Country Inn, p. 232; Ironbound, p. 234; Redclyffe Shore Motor Inn, p. 236; and Riverside Inn, p. 236).
If you’re simply looking to fuel up on fast food or family style fare, Ellsworth is your main supply depot; expect the usual franchise chains along Route 1, especially near the point where routes 1 and 3 diverge.
To stock up for a picnic at Quoddy Head, stop by Bold Coast Smokehouse (www.boldcoastsmokehouse.com; 888/733-0807 or 207/733-8912) on Route 189 in Lubec. Vinny Gartmayer smokes hot salmon, gravlax, kabobs, and trout pâté, among other products. (Another Downeast smokehouse, Sullivan Harbor Farm, is covered in fuller detail below.)
Helen’s Restaurant DINER Reopened in 2015 after a devastating fire, this is the original Helen’s with some structural upgrades. It’s a cut-above-the-rest diner and one of the premier places in all of Maine to eat pie. (And, yes, there was a Helen.) You can get pork chops, fried fish, burgers, meatloaf, and other American-style square meals. But better to come for breakfast, to indulge in a plate of Helen’s impossibly fluffy pancakes, chock full of blueberries (the pride of Machias). And regardless of the meal, save room for the amazingly creamy and fruity pies; strawberry rhubarb or blueberry, when in season, are out of this world, but chocolate cream, banana cream, or just about anything else will satisfy the sweet tooth. Check for daily specials. There’s another Helen’s on the strip just north of Ellsworth.
111 Main St., Machias. 207/255-8423. Entrees $4–$15. Mon–Sat 6am–8pm, Sun 7am–2pm.
Serendib INDIAN/SRI LANKAN On Ellsworth’s main drag, you can find surprisingly excellent Indian and Sri Lankan food at this tiny, bright new restaurant. The menu’s offerings include fragrant curries, vindaloo, and fresh, house-made paneer. It’s popular enough that you might even run into a line on busy summer weekends.
2 State St., Ellsworth. 207/664-1030. Entrees $12–$18. Daily 10:30am–7:30pm.
Sullivan Harbor Farm & Smokehouse SMOKEHOUSE After a nasty run-in with the FDA, this legacy smokehouse reopened a revamped store and tasting room on Route 1 dedicated to one-stop shopping for Maine food (and drink products). Grab a six-pack from a nice selection of Maine craft beers, choose from stacks of locally tinned fish, pick up a few (Maine-made) Stonewall Kitchens jams and sauces. In the tasting room, you can sample a few excellent Maine-made cheeses or nosh, grab a cup of chowder or a baguette, or nosh a lobster roll. The one thing you can’t get, as of press time? Sullivan-smoked salmon. As of late 2016, the company was clearing final regulatory hurdles and expected to begin smoking again come summer 2017.
1545 U.S. Rte. 1 Hancock. www.sullivanharborfarm.com. 800/422-4014 or 207/422-2268. Tasting room plates $4–$12. Mon–Fri 10am–5:30pm, Sat 11–4.
Union River Lobster Pot LOBSTER More typical coastal dining is found in Ellsworth at this laidback gray frame lobster shack with walls of windows and a lawn overlooking the Union River, across the bridge from downtown Ellsworth. Besides featuring lobster dinners, it also serves a basic menu of Maine seafood, steaks, chicken, and sandwiches. Their chowder is a perennial favorite, as is the blueberry pie.
8 South St., Ellsworth. www.lobsterpot.com. 207/667-5077. Entrees $16–$25, lobsters market price. Jul–Aug daily 4-9pm, June and Sept-Oct daily 5–8:30pm. Open June–Columbus Day.
WaCo Diner A touchstone in Eastport for more than 90 years, this diner has evolved somewhat from the lunch wagon that it began life as. But the WaCo still serves big breakfasts of eggs and coffee plus sandwiches at lunch and dinners of beef and fried fish. Setting itself apart from other diners of its type: a great waterfront deck and quite decent cocktails.
47 Water St., Eastport. 207/853-4046. Entrees $4–$20. Daily 6am–closing (varies).
Exploring Downeast Maine
The best way to see this area—the only way, really—is to simply drive along U.S. Route 1 and a few associated back roads and shortcuts north from Ellsworth all the way to the Canadian border . . . and beyond, if you brought your passport. The driving time direct from Ellsworth to Lubec via routes 1 and 189 is about 2 hours with no stops. Allow considerably more time for visiting the sites detailed below, and for just plain snooping around.
Set on Route 1, inland from Mount Desert Island, the friendly, artsy town of Ellsworth (27 miles southeast of Bangor) is our starting point. You’ll swing east through the quiet fishing village of Sullivan, overlooking Frenchman Bay, then through Gouldsboro, which is actually a series of five villages. From here you may want to detour south off Route 1 down Route 186 to drive through Winter Harbor, Prospect Harbor, and Corea—don’t expect anything fancy here—to Schoodic Peninsula, a bonus sliver of Acadia National Park.
From Gouldsboro, Route 1 angles northeast 10 more miles to Milbridge, jumping-off point for the Maine Coastal Islands National Wildlife Refuge. From Milbridge, there’s a handy shortcut northeast along Route 1A, but if you have time, stay on Route 1 to visit quaint Cherryfield. Northeast of Cherryfield, you’ll roll through tiny Columbia Falls; from here, you can either detour south on Route 187 to Jonesport and the Great Wass Island Wildlife Refuge, or stay east on Route 1 for Jonesboro, from where you can detour down Great Cove Road to scenic Roque Bluffs State Park.
From Jonesboro, it’s only another 7.5 miles on Route 1 to the trim market town of Machias. You have two great options from here: East of town, detour southeast on Route 191 to the former shipbuilding village of Cutler, a prime place to shove off on a whale-watching cruise; or stay on Route 1 another 17 miles from Machias to find Whiting—nondescript in its own right, but a fine entry point to Moosehorn National Wildlife Refuge, the easternmost national wildlife refuge on the Atlantic migration corridor.
From Whiting, you have 2 options: Shoot east on Route 189 to visit scenic Lubec, the northeasternmost town in the United States, connected by bridge to Canada; or follow Route 1 north to cross Cobscook Bay at Pembroke, where you’ll find an unusual reversing falls (the direction of the falls reverses twice each day, depending on prevailing tides). Six miles past Pembroke, at Perry, you have two choices: Angle southeast down Route 190 to charming Eastport, or head another 20 miles or so along the St. Croix River to French-inflected Calais (pronounced just like callous, unfortunately), connected by bridge to St. Stephen, New Brunswick, Canada (see p. 273).
Ellsworth
Ellsworth doesn’t get much due from travelers hell-bent on making it to Mount Desert Island before dinner, but those in the know stop here to sample the town’s growing cultural offerings, capitalizing on a concentration of artists and musicians. Though parts overdeveloped and commercialized—you’ll pass through a stretch of Route 1 dominated by big box stores—the downtown is vibrant and pedestrian-friendly.
The town was first settled by Passamaquoddy and Penobscot tribes; later, French woodsmen explored the area, and the British inevitably followed with bridges, sawmills, and ships on the Union River. By the late 19th century, Ellsworth had become a significant port of departure for lumber cut from the big Maine woods, as well as an important shipbuilding center. After those industries faded, Ellsworth reinvented itself as a tourist jumping-off point—playing off its proximity to Mount Desert Island—and arts center.
The Telephone Museum MUSEUM It’s not exactly comprehensive, but this tiny museum in a barn about 10 miles outside Ellsworth makes for a rainy Saturday afternoon diversion. You’ll explore the ins and outs of the hand-crank system that first made it possible to reach out and touch someone—talk to a switchboard operator (the early heroines of the system) and learn about telephone poles, line, linesmen, switching stations, and how they kept it all running smoothly back in the day. Tours are available. From Route 1 in Ellsworth, go 7 miles south to Happytown Road, turn right, and continue 6 miles to crossroads. Turn right onto Winkumpaugh Road.
166 Winkumpaugh Rd., Ellsworth. www.thetelephonemuseum.org. 207/667-9491. $10 adults, $5 children. July–Sept Sat 1–4pm; May–June and Oct by appointment only. Closed Nov–Apr.
Maine Coastal Islands wildlife Refuge
Stringing along the length of the Maine coast, this complex of several refuges protects a collection of uninhabited islands and parcels of land, habitat for nesting seabirds and birds of prey. The entire refuge now includes about 50 islands, three onshore areas, and more than 8,000 acres in all. It’s home to terns, plovers, bald eagles, puffins, razorbills, storm petrels, and eiders, among other birds.
About 2.5 miles west of Milbridge, turn down Pigeon Hill Road and drive south 5.5 miles to the Petit Manan Point Refuge, which has a couple of excellent walking trails—the 1.5-mile Hollingsworth Loop and the 4-mile Birch Point Trail. Please respect the rules protecting these delicate ecosystems. Tread lightly, and light no open fires or unleash any dogs.
Another excellent way to explore the refuge is by boat. Two excellent charter boat operators, both sailing out of Bar Harbor (see p. 207 in chapter 8), run personalized tours to various islands of the refuge: Bar Harbor Whale Watch Co. (www.whalesrus.com; 
888/942-5374 or 207/288-2386), or, for groups of up to 6, captain Winston Shaw’s Sea Venture (www.svboattours.com; 207/288-3355). (Captain Shaw ties up at the Atlantic Oceanside Motel, on Route 3 just north of downtown Bar Harbor.) From Cutler, a few miles up the coast, the popular Bold Coast Charter Company (see p. 243) also runs trips out to the refuge’s Seal Island.
For more information on the refuge, go to www.mainecoastislands.org.
Schoodic Peninsula
7 miles S of W. Gouldsboro via Rte. 186
Schoodic Peninsula Overlooked by many travelers, this is a fine spot for dramatic photographs of surf crashing over the big rocks. It’s remote, however—although it’s just 7 miles from Mount Desert Island across Frenchman Bay, it’s a 50-mile drive to get here. The National Park Service gave this region an overhaul during the later Obama years, installing a fine new campground and substantially expanded trail system. A pleasing one-way loop road hooks around the point (no park entry pass or fee required), winding along the water and through forests of spruce and fir. Good views of the mountains of Acadia open up across Frenchman Bay; you can also see part of a historic naval station housed on the point. Park near Schoodic Point, the tip of the peninsula, and explore salmon-colored rocks that plunge into the ocean. Schoodic Woods Campground , a pristine, 94-site campground at the top of the peninsula, has an amphitheater, ranger programs, and a handful of secluded walk-in sites (some with terrific views of MDI’s peaks across the water). Camping fees range from $22 for the hike-in sites to $40 for full electric/water RV hookups (open late May to early September, reservations necessary in midsummer). Schoodic Woods is at the heart of the trail system, with new footpaths that extend all the way down the peninsula (via the bald-topped Buck Cove Mountain and 440-foot Schoodic Head), as well as an 8-mile network of smooth, occasionally hilly bike paths.
Acadia National Park, Winter Harbor. www.nps.gov/acad. 207/288-3338. Free admission.
32 miles E of Ellsworth on Rte. 1
The former shipbuilding town of Milbridge is a handy base for exploring the Maine Coastal Islands National Wildlife Refuge (see box p. 240). The town has its own charms as well, celebrated in the town history museum; as recently as 1983 a boat was built and launched here.
Milbridge Historical Museum MUSEUM This low-key museum focuses mostly on shipbuilding and fishing as a local way of life, with exhibits such as Getting Through the Long Winter, Old Ways of Fishing, and Rusticators (about summer tourists seeking to escape to a more basic way of life here). The displays include vintage photos, shipbuilding tools, and a time capsule filled with items from Downeast Maine.
Main St. (Rte. 1), Milbridge. www.milbridgehistoricalsociety.org. 207/546-4471. Free admission. July–Aug Tues and Sat–Sun 1–4pm; June and Sept Sat–Sun 1–4pm. Oct–May by appointment only.
Cherryfield & Columbia Falls
Cherryfield is 6 miles N of Milbridge on Rte. 1. Columbia Falls is 11 miles E of Cherryfield on Rte. 1.
North of Milbridge on Route 1, you’ll pass through lovely little Cherryfield, the self-proclaimed Blueberry Capital of the World, and Columbia Falls, with a town center that has retained its longtime charm thanks to the good fortune of having been bypassed by Route 1.
From Columbia Falls, detour south along Route 187 (which makes a complete loop of its peninsula) to Jonesport, a photogenic, lost-in-time fishing village dominated by lobstermen and boat work. Jonesport is the jumping-off point for the nature preserve on Great Wass Island. Or stay on Route 1 to Jonesboro and detour 6 miles on Great Cove Road to Roque Bluffs State Park.
Cherryfield-Narraguargus Historical Society MUSEUM If you’re lucky, you’ll hit town when this small museum is open. Exhibits display tools, photographs, and other 19th-century items. Look through preserved milk bottles, flasks, and boxes from a general store, wooden trunks, washboards, period clothing, and a hand-loom, among other items.
88 River Rd., Cherryfield. www.cherryfieldhistorical.com. 207/546-2076. $5 suggested donation. Jul–Aug Sat 1–4pm; other times by appointment.
Columbia Falls Pottery SHOP In a restored schoolhouse next door to the Ruggles House, April Adams’s excellent shop features nature-inspired designs such as Lupine, Blueberry, Flag Iris, and Lady’s-Slipper. They even take credit cards.
150 Main St., Columbia Falls. www.columbiafallspottery.com. 877/211-2457.
Roque Bluffs State Park PARK A day-use-only park, Roque Bluffs features impressive coastal scenery plus the added attraction of both freshwater and saltwater swimming areas. Jasper Beach is particularly noteworthy for the uniformly smooth jasper stones that make it up. There are family friendly amenities here such as grills, changing areas, a playground, and a lifeguard.
145 Schoppee Point Rd. (6 miles off Rte. 1), Roque Bluffs. 207/255-3475. $6 adults, $1 children ages 5–11, free for children 4 and under. Open mid-May–Sept.
Ruggles House HISTORIC HOME This Federal home dating from 1818 was built for Thomas Ruggles, a local timber merchant and civic leader. The house is grand and opulent, but in a curiously miniature sort of way. There’s a flying staircase in the central hallway, pine doors hand-painted to resemble mahogany, and detailed woodcarvings in the main parlor done over the course of 3 years by an English craftsman equipped, legend has it, with just a penknife. Tours last 20 minutes to a half-hour.
146 Main St., Columbia Falls. www.ruggleshouse.org. 207/483-4637. Tours $5 adults, $2 children ages 6–12. June–mid-Oct Mon–Sat 10am–4pm; Sun 12–4pm. Closed mid-Oct to mid-June.
Wild Blueberry Land SHOP Cheeseball though it may be, you probably shouldn’t leave Columbia Falls without ducking into this emporium, which sells every product imaginable made from Maine’s tart and justifiably lauded wild blueberries—jams, pies, cordials, syrup, muffins, chocolates . . . and, of course, the blueberries themselves. You’ll know you’re at the right place because the building is shaped like . . . wait for it . . . a giant blueberry.
1067 Rte. 1, Columbia Falls. www.wildblueberryland.com. 207/483-3884. Open 9am–5pm June–mid-Oct (fall hours may be foreshortened).
Wonderful Walks
West of Cherryfield, you may want to take a drive on Route 182, designated the Blackwoods Scenic Byway (blackwoodsbyway.org). A rugged trail system in the neighborhood of Tunk Lake weaves among some great swimming and fishing ponds, beaches, and rolling hills, including the exposed 1,157-foot Tunk Mountain, with 360-degree views from its summit.
South of Jonesport (cross the bridge to Beals Island and continue across the causeway), the Great Wass Island Preserve ( 207/729-5181) is an exceptional 1,524-acre island, acquired by the Nature Conservancy in 1978. An excellent 4.5-mile loop hike covers a wide cross section of native terrain, including bogs, heath, rocky coastline, and forests of twisted jack pines. Maps and a birding checklist can be found in a stand at the parking lot. Follow one fork of the trail to the rockbound shoreline; work your way along boulders to the other fork, then back to your car. From Jonesport, cross the bridge to Beals Island; continue across the causeway to Great Wass Island and bear right at the next fork. Continue past the lobster pound to a parking lot on the left.
Machias
16 miles NE of Columbia Falls on Rte. 1
The trim market town of Machias (pronounced Ma-chai-us) is the county seat of, and by far the biggest community in, Washington County—though it’s not very big at all. Its year-round population of 2,400 seems positively Manhattan-esque in these parts by comparison to the rest of the towns, and a University of Maine satellite campus has attracted a welcome clutch of coffee shops, galleries, and other trappings of culture. The town’s name is a native word translating approximately to “Bad Little Falls,” a tribute to the rough rapids and waterfalls formed where river and coast meet here; the town was originally settled by Native Americans, who used it as a fishing camp.
Early explorers used the same river mouth as a trade port, although true colonial settlement of the town waited until the mid–18th century. This river even became the site of the Revolutionary War’s first naval battle on June 12, 1775, when locals turned back the British gunboat the Margaretta, a story that’s told and retold for visitors at the Burnham Tavern (see below).
Downtown Machias still has a surprising number of historic structures. The George Foster House and Andrew Gilson House on North Street both display distinctive mansards, while Court Street is packed with historic structures. Machias’s town offices are housed inside an Italianate former schoolhouse, the Clark Perry House has peaked lintels, and the granite Porter Memorial Library incorporates ballast and andirons from the Margaretta (talk about taking a war trophy). The Carrie Albee House at the corner of West and Court streets is a Victorian home dating from 1900.
Burnham Tavern HISTORIC SITE Gambrel-roofed Burnham Tavern, built on a rise overlooking the Machias River in 1770, is said to be the oldest existing building in eastern Maine. It occupies a unique place in local history: In June 1775, a month after the Battle of Lexington, a group of locals hatched a plan here that led to the first naval battle of the Revolutionary War. The armed schooner Margaretta was in Machias harbor to stock up on wood for the British barracks. Locals didn’t think much of that plan, and attacked the ship with smaller boats, muskets, swords, axes, pitchforks—whatever they could grab. The Mainers prevailed, killing the captain of the Margaretta in the process; visitors can learn all about the episode during a tour of the tavern. On display is booty taken from the British ship, along with the original tap table and other historic furniture and ephemera. The tours last around 1 hour.
14 Colonial Way (Rte. 192), Machias. www.burnhamtavern.com. 207/733-4577. $5 adults, $2 children. Mid-June–early Sept Mon–Fri 10am–5pm. Closed early Sept–mid-June.
Cutler
13 miles SE of East Machias via Rte. 191
The coastal scenery northeast of Cutler, known as the Bold Coast, makes for an impressive drive or hike.
Bold Coast Charter Company (www.boldcoast.com; 207/259-4484) operates cruises from May through August out of little Cutler harbor to Machias Seal Island (which is claimed by both Canada and the U.S. as territory; stay tuned). Captain Andy Patterson’s 40-foot Barbara Frost tour boat sometimes lands ashore and sometimes doesn’t, but either way viewing of puffins and razorbills is almost guaranteed. Patterson also makes occasional trips past Libby Island and its lighthouse, a 42-foot-tall, solar-powered granite lighthouse built in 1884 in an extremely foggy spot 4 miles out to sea. The 5-hour bird-watching tours leave around 7 or 8am and cost $130 per person (not recommended for kids under 8, even if you wanted to pay that rate for them). You board the boat at Cutler’s boat ramp on the harbor. Tours for the whole summer fill up months in advance—Captain Andy starts taking reservations in January.
Cutler is more than a fishing village: It was once an important navy communications outpost, its proximity to Europe and northerly location making it ideal for communicating with submarines plying European waters.
Those two dozen or so big antennas poking up above the coast? They’re said to make up the most powerful VLF transmitter in the world, as this quiet headland was for years considered a very high-risk target in the event of war. If you’re an aficionado of things military, be sure to have a look. However, you should also know that the base’s usefulness has greatly diminished in modern times, and the equipment is now operated by civilian personnel; most of the navy property, located on a scenic peninsula, is now being redeveloped.
Wonderful walks
Marked by a sign in a small parking lot along Route 191, the dramatic Cutler Trail ( 207/941-4412) passes through diverse ecosystems, including bogs, barrens, and dark and tangled spruce forests. The highlight of the trail, which traverses state-owned land, is a mile-long segment along rocky headlands high above the Atlantic. Some of the most dramatic coastal views in the state are located along this isolated stretch, which overlooks dark-gray-to-black rocks and the tumultuous sea. Visible on the horizon across the Bay of Fundy are the west-facing cliffs of the Canadian island of Grand Manan. Plan on at least 2 or 3 hours for the shortest loop, or a full 7-hour day to hike the entire loop to the point known as Fairy Head Loop to the south (find three primitive, first-come-first-serve campsites there).
Whiting
17 miles E of Machias on Rte. 1
There’s not much happening in Whiting, but it’s a gateway to some rewarding wilderness.
Cobscook Bay State Park 
PARK One of Maine’s hidden jewels, this state park is an outstanding camping or day-trip destination for the family. Tides flow back and forth across cribworked rocks, exposing deep tidal pools, rocks, and clam–rich mudflats; bird life is also prodigious. There are in all some 900 acres of trails (cross-country skiable in winter), and the hundred-plus campsites include a number of waterside sites.
Rte. 1, 5 miles N of Whiting. 207/726-4412. Open daily year-round. $6 nonresident adult, $2 child 5–11.
Moosehorn National Wildlife Refuge WILDLIFE Created in 1934 with proceeds from President Franklin D. Roosevelt’s Duck Stamp program, this refuge north of Dennysville via Route 214 is one of America’s oldest such refuges, and still home to eagles, osprey, and the unusual woodcock (check out its remarkable courtship flights). Cycling, skiing, hiking, and leashed pets are allowed on the refuge roads, though not in the wildlife areas; there are more than 50 miles of trails, plus observation decks for watching some of the many birds here. Tours are often given in summer. Note that the refuge consists of two disjoined chunks of land—this one here along Cobscook Bay on Route 1 between Dennysville and Whiting, the other to the southwest of Calais.
26 mi NE of Whiting via Rte. 1 and Rte. 214, or take Rte. 191 S from Rte. 1 in Baring. www.fws.gov/refuge/Moosehorn.
Lubec
11 miles NE of Whiting via Rte. 189
Lubec is the end of the line, literally: the northeasternmost community in the United States, connected by a bridge to Canada. (Locals joke that although this isn’t the end of the earth, at least you can see the ends of it from here.) To get here, turn off Route 1 at Whiting and take Route 189 northeast for 11 miles. The tidal mixing of two bays at this point has long proven to be a popular hangout for massive schools of fish, and fish canning and packing plants once filled the town. Today Lubec is notable chiefly for its vistas of the ocean and offshore lighthouses; set a course for Quoddy Head (see below) if you crave high tides, early sunrises, and a view that would stretch all the way to Europe and Africa if not for the curve of the earth. En route to Eastport, the Pleasant Point Passamoquoddy Reservation offers some cultural diversions.
West Quoddy Head Light & Quoddy Head State Park LIGHTHOUSE This red-and-white lighthouse, which has been likened to a barbershop pole or a candy cane, marks the easternmost point of the United States and helps guide boats into the Lubec Channel. (Interestingly, it’s also the nearest geographical point in the U.S. to Africa.) The light, operated by the Coast Guard, isn’t open to the public, but visitors can walk the grounds near the light and along headlands at an adjacent state park. A visitor center inside the lightkeeper’s house overlooks rocky shoals, pounding waves, and some of the most powerful tides on the planet. Watch for fishing boats straining against the currents and seals playing in the waves or sunning on offshore rocks. The park also includes 480 acres of coastline and bogs, with several trails winding through the forest and atop rocky cliffs; some of the most dramatic views can be found just a short walk down the path at the far end of the parking lot.
W. Quoddy Head Rd., Lubec. www.westquoddy.com. 207/733-0911 (state park) or 207/733-2180 (lighthouse). Lighthouse grounds: free admission. State park admission: $4 adults, $1 seniors and children 5–11. Lighthouse mid-May–mid-Oct daily 10am–4pm; grounds 9am–sunset. Closed mid-Oct–mid-May.
Pleasant Point Passamaquoddy Reservation CULTURAL CENTER One of a handful of Maine’s Native American reservations (don’t speed), this is where the Passamaquoddy tribe secured a landmark settlement in 1981, receiving a big land-and-cash award; in exchange, the tribe agreed to drop a series of land claims that many believe would have won in court—and probably bankrupted the state in the process. (The tribe would have received more than half of the land in the state of Maine if it had won.) There are few tourist facilities here, save a couple of souvenir shops and the Waponahki Museum & Resource Center, upstairs in the Sipayik Youth Center, with its photographs, baskets, art, and cultural exhibits. Call ahead if you’re intent on visiting—it’s only open limited hours, but they might open it for you if you can’t get here at those times.
SE of Perry on Rte. 190. 59 Passamaquoddy Rd. www.wabanaki.com/wabanaki_new/Museum.html. 207/853-2600, ext. 227. In summer, open 1–4pm Mon–Thurs and second Sat of month.
Eastport
7 miles SE of Perry via Route 190
Situated on a small island across a causeway at the tip of America, Eastport (3 miles from Lubec by water, but 50 minutes by car) was once among the busiest ports on the entire East Coast. In the late 19th century it was home to nearly 5,000 residents and 18 sardine plants. The census now counts fewer than 1,500, and the sardine plants are gone, but Eastport’s historic downtown is gradually making itself over as an artsy place of writers, musicians, and other creative types attracted to the slow pace of life and closeness to the sea. While the town perennially works to jumpstart its shipping industry, the fishing industry here has also reinvented itself: Salmon farm pens now fill the near-shore waters.
If you’re into whirlpools, you’ve come to the right place: Just north of Eastport is the Old Sow, said to be the largest whirlpool in the Western Hemisphere. It’s a bit finicky and is impressive only during the highest tides. DownEast Charter Boat Tours (www.oldsowtours.com; 207/733-2009) in Lubec leads daily trips out for $69 for adults and $49 for kids 12 and under. The timing each day is based on the tides, so call for details. Otherwise, you can get a look at Old Sow from the seasonal ferry to Deer Island in New Brunswick, Canada (see p. 273).
Eastport Historic District HISTORIC DISTRICT Much of Eastport’s handsome 19th-century brick architecture remains on Water Street—a compact thoroughfare that also affords lovely views of Campobello Island and Passamaquoddy Bay. The majority of the buildings between the post office and the library are on the National Register of Historic Places. You’ll mostly see the work of architect Henry Black, who designed two-thirds of these Italianate buildings during a single hectic year after an 1886 fire razed the previous downtown. Look for his hand at the Eastport Savings Bank at 43 Water Street, the Shead Building at 58 Water Street, the M. Bradish Bakery at 68 Water Street, the Masonic Block at 36 Water Street, the Charles & M. A. Jackson Block at 74 Water Street, and (we think) the Hayscale Block at 49 Water Street.
Water St., Eastport.
Raye’s Mustard Mill FACTORY Foodies may be delighted to discover Raye’s artisanal mustard factory here in downtown Eastport, powered by one of the last stone mills in America. The Raye family has been cold-grinding mustard seeds and bottling various mustard concoctions here since 1903, when J. W. “Wes” Raye built the place to create mustards for a booming local sardine-canning trade. Now he supplies sardine plants as far away as Norway; MDI summer resident Martha Stewart is a fan. Free hourly tours of the factory are given, where new flavors are sometimes in the offing; in the gift shop, pick up gifts for the mustard-crazed back home.
83 Washington St., Eastport. www.rayesmustard.com. 800/853-1903 or 207/853-4451. Tours Mon–Fri 10am–3pm, Sat by appointment.
Tides Institute & Museum of Art MUSEUM The permanent collection at this eclectic museum anchoring downtown Eastport incorporates nearly any media you can imagine, with an emphasis on coastal New England history, design, and architecture. You might find vintage photographs, wildlife art, beautiful 19th-century maps, Wabanaki basketry, or old (surprisingly fascinating) sardine labels from the region’s cannery days. Rotating exhibits throughout the summer skew towards contemporary painting and sculpture from Northeast artists. Check the online calendar for a list of events, including workshops with the artists who come to Eastport (from all across the world) for Tides’ summer residency (you may well run into them at the bar later).
43 Water St., Eastport. www.tidesinstitute.org. 207/853-4074. Free admission. June–Sept Tues–Sun 10am–4pm; May and Oct Wed–Sat 10am–4pm; winter and spring by chance or appointment.
Wonderful Walks
Although Eastport is pretty quiet, the 90-acre peninsula of Shackford Head State Park ( 207/941-4014) is even quieter; get there by following Route 190 almost into town, turn right at the gas station, and continue almost 1 mile along Deep Cove Road. There’s a hiking trail here with nice views. Interestingly, at low tide you can see remains of several Civil War–era ships, brought here for salvage in the early 20th century. The entry fee is $4 for non-residents of Maine, $1 for seniors and kids 5–11. No campfires or all-terrain vehicles allowed.
Side Trip to Campobello Island
From Lubec (p. 245), it’s only a short drive to Canada, a perfect international day-trip opportunity. You will need a valid passport to cross the border, of course. Lubec is the gateway to Canada’s Campobello Island, a quiet jewel once favored by president Franklin D. Roosevelt. This compact island (about 10 miles long and 3 miles wide) at the mouth of Passamaquoddy Bay has been home to both humble fishermen and wealthy families over the years, and both have coexisted quite nicely. (Locals approved when summer folks built golf courses because it gave them a place to graze their sheep.) Today the island is a mix of elegant summer homes and less interesting tract homes of a more recent vintage.
Campobello is connected by a graceful modern bridge to Lubec—in fact, it’s easier to get to from the United States than from Canada. From the Canadian mainland, you’d have to take two ferries, one of which operates only in summer. (From Letete, New Brunswick, there’s a free ferry to Deer Island; at Deer Island’s other end, there’s a small seasonal ferry to Campobello operated by East Coast Ferries (www.eastcoastferriesltd.com; 506/747-2159; fares C$16/US$12 for car and driver, C$4/US$3 for each additional passenger).
Where to Stay & Eat on Campobello Island
Owen House, A Country Inn & Gallery This three-story clapboard captain’s house dates from 1835 and sits on 10 tree-filled acres at the edge of the bay. The first-floor common rooms are nicely decorated in a busy Victorian manner with Persian and braided carpets and mahogany furniture; view the water from the nautical-feeling, airy sunroom with its big stone fireplace. The guest rooms are a mixed lot, furnished with a mélange of antique and modern furniture; some are bright and airy and filled with salty air (room no. 1 is the largest, with waterfront views on two sides); others, like room no. 5, are tucked under stairs and a bit dark. Third-floor rooms share a single bathroom but also have excellent views. A filling hot breakfast is included in the room rates. Ask to see the owner’s in-house watercolor gallery if you’re an art buff. The sunroom is a great place to relax with a drink, as are the Adirondack chairs on the porch.
11 Welshpool St., Welshpool. www.owenhouse.ca. 506/752-2977. 9 units (2 with shared bathroom). C$104–C$210 (US$78–US$158) double. Rates include full breakfast. Closed Nov–Apr. No children 5 and under in Aug. Amenities: Free Wi-Fi in common areas.
exploring campobello island
Just after you cross the bridge from Lubec, you’ll see on your right the Campobello Welcome Center, 44 Route 774, Welshpool ( 506/752-2529), open daily mid-May through mid-October.
Roosevelt Campobello International Park The U.S. and Canada maintain a joint national park here, celebrating the life of Franklin D. Roosevelt, who summered here with his family in the early 1900s. Like other affluent Americans, the Roosevelt family made an annual trek to the prosperous colony at Campobello Island. The island lured folks from the sultry cities with a promise of cool air and a salubrious effect on the circulatory system. (“The extensive forests of balsamic firs seem to affect the atmosphere of this region, causing a quiet of the nervous system and inviting sleep,” read an 1890 real-estate brochure.) The future U.S. president came to this island every summer between 1883—the year after he was born—and 1921, when he was suddenly stricken with polio. Franklin and his siblings spent those summers exploring the coves and sailing around the bay, and he always recalled his time here fondly. (It was his “beloved island,” he said, coining a phrase that gets no rest in local promotional brochures.)
The islands and peninsulas of Passamaquoddy Bay lend themselves nicely to cycling—especially pretty Campobello, which has plenty of good dirt roads perfect for mountain biking. But you’ll need a guidebook to show you the way. Fortunately, Kent Thompson has written a handy one, called Biking to Blissville. It covers 35 lovely rides in the Maritimes, including some on the island, and costs C$20 (about US$15). Unfortunately, it was published in 1993, but there’s plenty unchanged (kind of the selling point at Campobello). Try to order it through the publisher, Goose Lane Editions (www.gooselane.com; 888/926-8377 or 506/450-4251), or, failing that, through an online retailer such as Amazon (www.amazon.ca).
You can view a brief film at the visitor center and take a self-guided tour of the elaborate mansion, which is covered in cranberry-colored shingles, to learn about Roosevelt and his early life. For a “cottage” this huge, it is surprisingly comfortable and intimate. The park is truly an international park, run by a commission with representatives from both the U.S. and Canada, making it like none other in the world.
Leave some time to explore farther afield in the 2,800-acre park, which offers scenic coastline and 8.5 miles of walking trails. Maps and walk suggestions are available at the visitor center.
459 Rte. 774, Welshpool NB (in Canada). www.fdr.net. 506/752-2922. Free admission. Daily 10am–6pm (last tour at 5:45pm). Visitor center and Roosevelt Cottage closed mid-Oct–mid-May; grounds open year-round.
Wonderful Walks
The island offers excellent shoreline walks at both Roosevelt Campobello International Park (see p. 248) and Herring Cove Provincial Park ( 506/752-7010), which is open year-round. The landscapes are extraordinarily diverse. On some trails you’ll enjoy a Currier and Ives tableau of white houses and church spires across the channel in Lubec and Eastport; 10 minutes later you’ll be walking along a wild, rocky coast pummeled by surging waves. Herring Cove has a mile-long beach that’s perfect for a slow stroll in the fog. (Herring Cove also has a very scenic golf course, open late April to October, and campsites, open late May to October.)
Campobello’s mixed terrain also attracts a good mix of birds, including sharp-shinned hawk, common eider, and black guillemot. Ask for a checklist and map at the visitor center.
