5

Portland

Urban amenities, lively street culture, and a dense concentration of the East Coast’s most lauded restaurants—all in a town you can bike end-to-end in 20 minutes. That’s what draws transplants and travelers alike to Maine’s biggest city (still fewer than 70,000 souls), which radiates out from a hammerhead-shaped peninsula extending into glittering Casco Bay. If you came to Maine for bucolic coastal seclusion, you might be tempted to drive right past on I-295, admiring the skyline at 60 miles an hour. But you’d be missing out on one of the country’s most vibrant up-and-coming small metros.

Portland is worth at least an afternoon’s detour, and even a weekend (or a week) isn’t too much time to spend here. This historic city has plenty of charm—not only in the Old Port, with its brick sidewalks and cobblestone streets, but in several lovely residential neighborhoods of striking views and architecture. You can catch a quick ferry to an offshore island, browse boutique shops, snap photos of historic homes; crack lobsters, walk empty beaches, and pose beside lighthouses; and top off your day with top-shelf food and drink. (Portland is now a sort of culinary mecca, blessed with an uncommonly high number of excellent restaurants, craft breweries and distilleries, micro-roasteries, and so on for a city its size.) And there’s a salty tang to local culture that you’ll occasionally still glimpse in the waterfront bars and chowder houses.

Actually, it feels more like a large town than a small city. Strike up a conversation with a resident, and you’re likely to get an earful about how easy it is to live here (this despite rents and home prices that have steadily risen with Portland’s burgeoning cachet). You can enjoy acres of trails and parkland, see art-house movies, and get good Vietnamese or Thai food to go. Traffic isn’t bad at all.

Like most New England cities, Portland has been forced to reinvent itself every couple of generations as economic and cultural trends overturn old paradigms. The city was a center for maritime trade in the 19th century, when a forest of ship masts obscured the view of the harbor. It’s been a manufacturing hub, with locomotive factories, steel foundries, and fish-packing plants. It’s been a mercantile center, with impressive downtown department stores and a slew of wholesale dealers. The post-recession years have seen a rapid wave of revitalization (or gentrification, depending who you ask) all across town. Drawn by its big-city perks and comparatively inexpensive standard of living, urban expats from other East Coast metros have descended on the Forest City (including enough creative-class former Brooklynites to engender the nickname “Portlyn”). Office space is in short supply these days, old warehouses and industrial properties are becoming sought-after real estate, and there’s a brisk urban vitality that often eludes much bigger cities. A recent wave of immigration from Africa and Asia has given the place a shot in the cultural arm; Portland’s art museum would be outstanding in a community five or ten times its size; new coffee shops seem to open daily; and a downtown arts college brings a youthful spirit to the streets. Best of all, there’s always an offshore island to escape to when cruise ships on the waterfront unload a few too many fellow tourists for your taste.

Essentials

106 miles N of Boston and 317 miles NE of New York City

Arriving

By Car   Coming from the south by car, downtown Portland is most accessible by taking exit 44 off the Maine Turnpike (I-95, which is a toll road) into the city, then following I-295 (which is free) a few miles into town. Exit I-295 onto Franklin Arterial (exit 7), then continue straight uphill and downhill to the city’s ferry terminal in the Old Port. Turn right onto Commercial Street and park. There’s a visitor center nearby, and plenty to do within 10 minutes’ walk. Get oriented here.

By Train   Amtrak (www.amtrak.com;  800/872-7245) runs the daily Downeaster service from Boston’s North Station to Portland (passengers from other cities must change stations from South Station to North Station in Boston via taxi or subway). The train makes five round-trips daily (time: 21⁄2 hr.), for $20–$30 each way. Downtown is a short bus or cab ride or a drab 45-minute walk from the station, which is out on Thompson’s Point (although a new recreational development in an old train repair facility has made Thompson’s Point a destination itself—see p. 96).

By Bus   Two big carriers, Concord Coach (www.concordcoachlines.com;  800/639-3317 or 603/228-3300) and Greyhound (www.greyhound.com;  800/231-2222), provide bus service to Portland. The Greyhound bus terminal is at 950 Congress St., about a mile south of the downtown core. Greyhound runs buses from both Boston and New York City: from Boston, there are several buses daily (around 2 hr., $15–$30 one-way), while from New York there are two buses daily (8 hr., $33–$64 one-way). Concord Coach connects runs more than a dozen buses daily between Portland and Boston’s Logan Airport (2 hr., $29 one-way; discounts for round-trips), plus two buses a day to NYC (6 hr., $69 one-way). Concord Coach’s bus terminal is next to Portland’s inconvenient Amtrak station (see “by Train,” above) on Thompsons Point Road. City buses and taxis ferry you downtown from here.

By Plane   Portland International Jetport (www.portlandjetport.org;  207/874-8877), airport code PWM, is the largest airport in Maine. It’s served by flights from American Airlines (www.aa.com;  800/433-7300), Delta (www.delta.com;  800/221-1212), Elite Airways (www.eliteairways.net;  800/393-2510), JetBlue (www.jetblue.com;  800/538-2583), Southwest Airlines (www.southwest.com;  800/435-9792), and United Express (www.united.com;  800/864-8331). The airport got a significant expansion in 2011, and there are plans in place for further upgrades in 2018, but the terminal is still pretty easily navigated. A taxi ride to the city is about $30 with tip; some hotels near the airport and downtown will shuttle you to your digs for free. Ask when booking.

Visitor Information

The Convention and Visitor’s Bureau of Greater Portland (www.visitportland.com) runs four tourist information centers around town. The main info center is on the Ocean Gateway Pier, just north of the Casco Bay Lines ferry terminal at the feet of Commercial St. and Franklin Arterial. Most of the year, it’s open Monday through Saturday—but in July and August it’s open 7 days a week. (It closes in February.) There’s also a tourist information desk at the Portland International Jetport ( 207/756-8312), near baggage claim, open daily year-round, plus brochure kiosks at the Maine Mall in South Portland and at the Portland Transport Center at Thompson’s Point (see “By Train,” above; also see box on p. 96).

Portland’s free weekly newspaper, the Portland Phoenix, and the monthly Dispatch both offer good listings of local events, films, nightclub performances, and the like. Copies are widely available at restaurants, bars, coffee shops, and convenience stores, and in newspaper boxes on curbs in the Old Port and around downtown.

City Layout

The city of Portland is divided into two areas: on-peninsula and off-peninsula. (There are also the islands, but more on that below.) Most travelers are destined for the compact peninsula, where the city’s downtown area is located; most of Portland’s cultural life and retail activity takes place here.

Viewed from the water, Portland’s peninsula is shaped a bit like a swaybacked horse or the hammerhead on a shark, with the Old Port lying in the middle near the waterfront. The peninsula’s two main residential neighborhoods (Munjoy Hill and the West End) top gentle rises overlooking downtown. Congress Street, Portland’s main artery of commerce, connects these two neighborhoods. The western stretch of Congress Street (roughly between Monument Square and State Street) is home to Portland’s emerging Arts District , where you can find the handsome art museum, several theaters, the campus of the Maine College of Art (located in an old department store), and a calliope of restaurants and boutiques.

Parking

Parking is notoriously tight in the Old Port, and the city’s parking enforcement is notoriously efficient. Several parking garages are convenient to the Old Port, and you can also park in some residential neighborhoods, often for a maximum of 2 hours. Read signs carefully for news of nighttime street-sweeping hours; you will be towed (don’t ask how I know; I just do) if you run afoul of them.

Special Events

First Friday Art Walks bring Portlanders out along Congress Street (and spilling into the Old Port) early each month, even in winter. The sidewalk between Forest Avenue and Preble Street is a pop-up art fair with a pronounced indie/DIY aesthetic—a lot of the vendors are students at Maine College of Art, which also opens its galleries for the occasion. The streets are filled with buskers (and occasionally pretty sizeable roving bands), food trucks set up in the squares, and everything from coffee shops and bookstores to galleries and the Portland Museum of Art host openings and events. It’s quite a scene in the summers. Creative Portland (www.creativeportland.com;  207/370-4784) puts out a monthly list of happenings.

The Old Port Festival ( 207/772-6828) takes place in early June, when tens of thousands of revelers descend upon the historic Old Port section to herald the arrival of summer. Several blocks of the Old Port are blocked to traffic, and the throngs order food and buy goods from street vendors. Several stages provide entertainment, ranging from kids’ singalongs to raucous blues. Admission is free.

Where to Stay in Portland

In addition to the lodgings listed below, there are tons of chain hotels and motels in and around the city. Check around the Maine Mall (in South Portland) for the largest agglomeration; you’ll find all the usual names there, in various price ranges; see p. 90 for a few suggestions.

If you’re looking for something more central (and you should), Portland proper has options, but you’ll pay for the privilege during high season. The city has a seasonal quandary on its hands when it comes to hotel rooms: Many rooms sit empty in the winter and spring, and you can score some great deals then, but during Portland’s busy summers, reservations can be hard to come by and pricey, even after a spate of new hotel construction. Across the street from the main ferry dock in the Old Port neighborhood, the Hilton Garden Inn (65 Commercial St.; www.hilton.com;  207/780-0780) is convenient to restaurants, bakeries, and pubs—not to mention the islands of Casco Bay. You’ll pay for the privilege of being in the heart of the waterfront, though: Double rooms mostly run from about $169 up to $449 per night. A couple of blocks inland, the Holiday Inn by the Bay, 88 Spring St. (www.innbythebay.com;  800/345-5050 or 207/775-2311), offers great views of the harbor from about half the rooms, along with the usual chain-hotel creature comforts. Peak-season rates are approximately $210 for a double.

Portland is awash in Airbnb rentals at the moment, with everything available from couches to crash on to stately properties in the tony West End. As of this writing, however, the city is trying to crack down on seasonal rentals with new regulations, since rental properties (many owned by out-of-staters and seasonal residents) are pricing out locals and turning whole neighborhoods into patchwork ghost towns in the winter. So the thriving online rental market may take some hits in the near future.

Expensive

Black Point Inn Resort    Just 10 miles south of Portland (about 15 minutes driving time from downtown), the historic Black Point Inn is a Maine classic. When new ownership took over the property back in 2007, the inn dispensed with one of its pools and all of the cottages, slashing the room count by more than two-thirds and giving the place more of a boutique feel than a resort vibe. The remaining rooms have been updated and upscaled. Situated on 9 acres with views along the coast both north and south, the inn was built as a summer resort in 1873 on the same attractive rocky point memorialized by landscape painter Winslow Homer. What remains is as elegant as ever, perhaps more so, and the expansive porch (with its constant sea breezes) thankfully remains. Dinner at The Point is a stately, white-tablecloth affair, while the pubbier Chart Room offers three squares and a killer outdoor seating area with beach views. Meal plans available.

510 Black Point Rd., Prouts Neck. (From U.S. Rte. 1 in Scarborough, turn onto Rte. 207 east.) www.blackpointinn.com.  207/883-2500. 25 units. $330–$590 double; $500–$650 suite. Closed Nov–Apr. Packages available. Amenities: Restaurants; bar; free bikes and kayaks; fitness room; Jacuzzi; massage; heated outdoor pool; room service; sauna; private beaches; free Wi-Fi.

The Danforth    In 2014, the owners of Camden’s Relais & Châteaux property, the Camden Harbour Inn, took over this stately brick manor on the peninsula, and they’ve upped its status to “grand boutique inn,” nicely balancing the elegant Federal architecture with splashy contemporary art and furniture that wouldn’t look out of place in a modern art museum. Breakfast is served in a sunshiney dining room, and guests share common spaces such as an indoor herb garden, an old-school conservatory, and well-kept private gardens out back. The Victoria Mansion (p. 101) is just 2 blocks down the street, and the Old Port’s only a 10-minute stroll. Fare at the adjacent restaurant, Tempo Dulu , is Indonesian fusion—unexpected, given The Danforth’s old-school milieu, but a terrific dining experience nonetheless (great cocktails).

163 Danforth St. www.danforthmaine.com.  800/991-6557 or 207/879-8755. 9 units. July–Aug $349–$524 double; May–June and Sept–Oct $199–$279 double; Nov–Apr $179–$249 double. 2-night minimum on weekends. Rates include full breakfast. Amenities: Conservatory; garden; sitting room; restaurant; bar; free Wi-Fi.

Portland Hotels and Restaurants

Inn by the Sea    Not so much an inn as a luxury retreat, Cape Elizabeth’s best hotel has made the successful transition from relaxed seaside getaway to destination resort. Yet they’ve done it while retaining a wonderful sense of place: suites and dining areas emphasize Maine-themed art and foods, while summery gardens and ocean views tantalize through the windows. An expansive, lovely spa was added in 2008, as were a walk-in cave, fireplace rooms, and bi-level spa suites with double Jacuzzis. A further set of cottages (townhouselike suites) in an outbuilding add full kitchens and extra bedroom or bathroom space. Especially welcome is this inn’s move toward green practices: It’s the first hotel in Maine to burn biofuels, operate carbon neutrally, and employ printed-paper key cards. Recycled materials and low-flow toiletry also predominate. Need still more green? A walkway leads to one of Maine’s best beaches.

40 Bowery Beach Rd., Cape Elizabeth. www.innbythesea.com.  800/888-4287 or 207/799-3134. 57 units. July–Aug $579–$1040 suite (2-night minimum on weekends); May–June and Sept–Oct $370–$530 suite; Nov–Apr $200–$280 suite. Packages available. Pets welcome in some units. Breakfast plans available. Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; fitness room; Jacuzzi; heated outdoor pool; room service; sauna; spa; free Wi-Fi.

Portland Regency Hotel    Centrally located on a cobblestone courtyard in the middle of the Old Port, the Regency boasts one of the city’s premier hotel locations. But it’s got more than location—this is also one of the most architecturally interesting hotels in southern Maine. Housed in an 1895 brick armory, the hotel is thoroughly modern inside and offers attractive rooms, appointed and furnished with all the expected amenities. There are several types of rooms and suites, each fitted to the place’s unique architecture; for a splurge, ask for a luxurious corner room with a handsome (nonworking) fireplace, sitting area, city views out big windows, and a Jacuzzi. The small health club is one of the best in town (it includes a sauna and hot tub), and the downstairs level conceals a restaurant and a lounge.

20 Milk St. www.theregency.com.  800/727-3436 or 207/774-4200. 95 units. Early July–late Oct $299–$359 double, $329–$509 suite; off season $149–$169 double, $189–$309 suite. Valet parking $20 per day. Some rooms allow pets $75 per day. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; free airport transfers; babysitting (with prior notice); conference rooms; fitness club w/ aerobics classes; Jacuzzi; room service; sauna; spa; free Wi-Fi.

The Press Hotel    If it’s not the best urban lodging in Portland, it’s certainly the most fun. The Press Hotel was constructed over the bones of the former headquarters of the Portland Press Herald newspaper, and there’s a “golden days of journalism” theme throughout the building that’s more fun than it sounds, from the art installation of vintage typewriters in the lobby to the wallpaper made of old headlines to the mod Inkwell bar. Rooms are clean and contemporary, done up in muted blues and grays, with vintage furniture, local art, and a really generous number of outlets and USB ports. The restaurant, Union, is one of Portland’s best.

119 Exchange St. www.presshotel.com.  207/808-8800. 110 units. July–Aug $379–$499 double, $719–$799 suite; May–June and Sept–Oct $209–$299 double, $549–$619 suite; Nov–Apr $159–$199 double, $449–$539 suite. Packages available. Amenities: Free bicycles, art gallery; restaurant; bar; fitness room; room service; spa; free Wi-Fi.

Moderate

Embassy Suites Hotel Portland    Practically inside Portland’s airport, this all-suite hotel gets very good reviews from business travelers. It’s one of the best choices if you have a very late arrival or early departure, even if it won’t win awards for innovative architecture. Business bonus: You can print remotely, for free, from all rooms.

1050 Westbrook St. www.hilton.com.  207/775-2200. 119 units. $119–$359 double. Rates include full breakfast. Pets allowed ($50 fee). Amenities: Restaurant; bar; conference rooms; fitness club; indoor pool; room service; sauna; free Wi-Fi.

Inn at Park Spring    This small, tasteful B&B is located on a busy downtown street in a historic brick home that dates back to 1835. It’s well located for exploring the city on foot, and the friendly owners keep the place in good shape. Guests can linger or watch TV in a front parlor, or chat at the communal dining table in the adjacent room (communal breakfasts are a highlight—unless you’re shy). The rooms are all corner rooms, and most are bright and sunny. Especially nice is Room 1, with its sleigh bed, hardwood flooring, and wonderful views of the historic row houses along Park Street, and periwinkle-hued Room 4, on the third (top) floor, which gets abundant afternoon light and is furnished with a king bed, big sitting room, and nice bathroom. The Portland Museum of Art and the city’s children’s museum (see p. 98) are only 2 blocks away, the Old Port a 10-minute walk.

135 Spring St., Portland. www.innatparkspring.com.  800/437-8511 or 207/774-1059. 5 units. Jun–Oct $210–$255 double; off-season $105–$145 double. 2-night minimum weekends. Rates include full breakfast and off-street parking. No children 9 and under. Amenities: Free Wi-Fi.

Pomegranate Inn    Located inside a 19th-century Italianate home in Portland’s lovely West End, this is arguably the city’s top B&B. Eight rooms feature individually distinct design touches, painted floors, faux-marble woodwork, and gas fireplaces. The carriage house room includes a private terrace whose sliding doors open onto a small garden, and breakfasts are a highlight. Also don’t miss the flowery second-floor balcony and third-floor conservatory.

49 Neal St. www.pomegranateinn.com.  800/356-0408 or 207/772-1006. 8 units. $199–$389 double. Rates include full breakfast. Packages available. Children 16 and older only. Amenities: Afternoon refreshments.

Portland Harbor Hotel    Situated adjacent to Portland’s busy bar scene on the corner of Fore and Union streets, this semicircular townhouselike structure—designed to fit in with the brick facades prevailing in the Old Port—appeals to the boutique crowd with its modern amenities. The interior courtyard throws off European ambience; large rooms are furnished with queen- and king-size beds and spacious work desks. Even the standard rooms are outfitted with armoires; duvets and down coverlets; deep bathtubs in granite-faced bathrooms; two-line phones; and big TVs. Deluxe rooms and suites add Jacuzzis and sitting areas, and some units look out onto a central garden area. The house restaurant, Eve’s at the Garden, has a great patio in the summertime.

468 Fore St. www.portlandharborhotel.com.  207/775-9090. 101 units. Mid-May–mid-Oct $289–$379 double, $369–$479 suite; off season $178–$189 double, $289 suite. Packages available. Valet parking in garage $20 per day. Some rooms allow pets $25 per day. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; babysitting; free bikes; concierge; fitness center; room service; free Wi-Fi.

The Westin Portland Harborview    Long known as the Eastland (the sign on the roof still proclaims this), this historic 14-story hotel off Congress Street reopened in 2013, after a $50-million renovation, as the Westin Portland Harborview. A few historic touches were saved, like the grand columns in the lobby and the ornately carved stairway to the ballroom, but the rooms are modern and efficient, if a little industrial cookie-cutter. The real selling points are the location, just off the heart of Congress Street, and Top of the East , the 14th-floor bar/lounge that’s a Portland landmark for craft cocktails and views of the city.

157 High St. www.westinportlandharborview.com.  207/775-5411. 289 units. Early July–late Oct $274–$380 double, $255–$446 suite; off season $115–$220 double, $168–$247 suite. Pets allowed. Amenities: Conference rooms; fitness club; restaurant; bar; free Wi-Fi in common areas ($10/day in-room).

Inexpensive

Budget travelers typically head for the chain hotels in the area surrounding the Maine Mall in South Portland, about 8 miles south of the attractions of downtown. The lowest-cost options include the Days Inn (461 Maine Mall Rd.; www.wyndhamhotels.com;  207/772-3450). An Extended Stay America (2 Ashley Dr., Scarborough; www.extendedstayamerica.com;  207/883-0554), a few minutes’ drive south of the mall, features in-room kitchenettes; doubles start around $80 nightly in the off season, $140 in summer. In Portland proper, the La Quinta (340 Park Ave.;  207/871-0611) doesn’t have much of a view (there’s a milk packaging plant across the street), but it’s nicely located, just across the bridge from SoPo with a handy airport shuttle, and close to the Sea Dogs’ ballpark and Thompson’s Point (p. 96).

Fairfield Inn Portland Maine Mall    The Fairfield, on the southern edge of the Maine Mall’s sprawl, is a good option for budget-minded families. The clean but basic rooms all have irons and ironing boards, there’s a simple free breakfast in the lobby each morning, and parking’s free and ample. You can practically walk to the mall (but don’t). Note that there’s no restaurant in the hotel.

2 Cummings Rd., Scarborough. www.marriott.com.  207/883-0300. 118 units. $76–$259 double. Rates include continental breakfast. Amenities: Fitness club; Jacuzzi; outdoor pool; free Wi-Fi.

Hampton Inn Portland–Airport    Of all the hotels clustered around Portland’s airport and mall, this is my top “family” pick. There’s a pool, a free shuttle van to and from the airport, chocolate-chip cookies, an Internet terminal in the lobby, a pretty good included breakfast, friendly staff, and a quiet-ish location. Plus they’ll bring cribs and highchairs as fast as you need ’em. Downtown is a 10-minute drive away, the Maine Mall a 30-second walk.

171 Philbrook Ave., South Portland. www.portlandhamptoninn.com.  207/773-4400. 117 units. $89–$199 double. Rates include continental breakfast. Packages available. Pets allowed in some rooms. Amenities: Fitness club; indoor pool; free Wi-Fi.

Where to Eat in Portland

Portland is nothing if not a city of creative cheap eats, so don’t neglect local bakeries and coffee shops when trolling for quick or economical meals. My favorite bakery in New England, hands-down, is Standard Baking Company , 75 Commercial St. ( 207/773-2112; www.standardbakingco.com), across from the ferry terminal and behind the Hilton Garden Inn hotel. Allison Bray and Matt James bake some of the best sticky buns (with or without nuts) and focaccia I’ve tasted, plus top-rate breads, brioche, cookies, and more. There’s good coffee, too. The bakery is open 7am to 6pm daily except Sundays, when it closes at 5pm.

Among the many coffee shops around the city, I frequent both Bard Coffee at 185 Middle Street (www.bardcoffee.com;  207/899-4788), open daily until 9pm except on Sundays, when it closes at 6pm, and Tandem Coffee + Bakery at 742 Congress Street (www.tandemcoffee.com;  207/805-1887), a former gas-station that now features beans from Tandem’s East Bayside roastery, terrific pies (sweet and savory) from baker Brianna Holt, and a minimalist sipping space that encourages honest-to-god interaction (read: no outlets, no Wi-Fi; open 7am to 6pm, 8am to 6pm weekends).

For pizza, grab giant Sicilian slices from Slab ( 207/245-3088; 25 Preble St.); adventurous toppings and a nice bar from OTTO ( 207/358-7090; 576 Congress St., plus five other locations around greater Portland); or wood-fired beauties with local ingredients from Bonobo ( 207/347-8267; 46 Pine St.).

Portland also claims to be the original home of the Italian sandwich—which may have been the original sub sandwich in America—and locals maintain the best example can still be found at the purported inventor of this creation, Amato’s, 71 India Street ( 207/773-1682), in what’s left of Portland’s Italian neighborhood.

Expensive

Central Provisions NEW AMERICAN   Small plates done right. Central Provisions made various national Best New Restaurant lists when it opened in 2014, and it’s only upped its game since. The ever-changing menu skews way local and divies up simply: hot, cold, raw, and sweet. Maine tuna crudos are a mainstay on the raw menu, and they’re typical of the restaurant’s style: simple, fresh, flavorful, and elegantly plated. On a Friday night, this place is date-night central. Grab a seat at the long bar with the scenesters (on a bar stool made from Maine-forged iron and recycled burlap) or head to the basement for more of a rathskeller feel. There’s a limited menu available late and between lunch and dinner.

414 Fore St. www.central-provisions.com.  207/805-1085. Small plates $8–$24. Lunch Tues–Sat 11am–2pm; dinner Sun–Wed 5–10pm, Thurs–Sat 5–10:30pm. Reservations not accepted.

Eventide Oyster Co. OYSTER BAR/SEAFOOD   Maybe no restaurant is as emblematic of contemporary Portland dining as Eventide. The offerings are of the old-school Maine seafaring variety: a rotating selection of oysters (overwhelmingly local in season, many from the oyster mecca of the Damariscotta River), a brown-butter lobster roll that’s a rich and inventive twist on the state’s favorite proletarian treat, or a full-on clambake option, complete with a hardboiled egg nestled in a bed of rockweed. But the room is stylish and modern, with the raw bar occupying a huge hunk of gorgeous Maine granite, the accouterments are adventurous (think ginger and kimchi toppings on your half-shell), and the clientele (especially late) tends towards the young and urbane. Naturally, in this brunch-iest of New England towns, there’s a Sunday brunch, with lobster benedict and salt-pork and beans. Eventide’s a little on the dear side compared to no-frills oyster pubs on up the coast; it’s also one of Portland’s most fun dining experiences.

86 Middle St. www.eventideoysterco.com.  207/774-8538. Dozen oysters $29; sandwiches and small plates $7–$15. Brunch entrees $11–$16. Daily 11am–midnight; Sun brunch 11am–3pm.

Five Fifty-Five NEW AMERICAN   When husband-and-wife Steve and Michelle Corry opened Five Fifty-Five in 2003, neither “small plates” nor “farm-to-table” were entrenched in the American foodie lexicon. The Corrys were instrumental in introducing both ideas to Northeast diners. Still, Five Fifty-Five’s regulars love it for its large-plate signature dishes like truffled lobster macaroni-and-cheese, striploins and hanger steaks, hand-rolled pastas, and other maximalist stalwarts. Wine aficionados, take note: The wine list here is tops, one of the best in the entire state.

555 Congress St. www.fivefifty-five.com.  207/761-0555. Small plates $9–$15, main courses $20–$35. Daily 5–10pm; Sun brunch 9:30am–2pm. Reservations recommended.

Fore Street CONTEMPORARY GRILL   Fore Street has emerged as one of northern New England’s most celebrated restaurants. Chef Sam Hayward routinely pops up in magazines like Saveur and Food & Wine, his restaurant was often in Gourmet’s 100 Best, and so forth. Hayward’s secret is simplicity: local and organic ingredients are used where possible, and the kitchen avoids fussy presentations. The dining space centers around a busy open kitchen where a team of chefs constantly stoke the wood-fired brick oven and grill, which feature prominently in the culinary philosophy here. The menu changes nightly, but entrees might run to spit-roasted pork loin, grilled duckling, grilled marinated hanger steak, or a piece of pan-seared bluefish; the wood-roasted mussels are also a big hit. Finish with a dessert such as chocolate soufflé, hand-dipped chocolates, or gelati—these are often accented in summer by seasonal Maine berries or fruits. Though it can be difficult to snag a reservation here on summer weekends, management always sets aside a few tables each night for walk-ins. Get there early and grab one.

288 Fore St. www.forestreet.biz.  207/775-2717. Main courses $26–$40. Sun–Thurs 5:30–10pm; Fri–Sat 5:30–10:30pm. Reservations recommended.

Piccolo ITALIAN   The cuisine of central and southern Italy takes center stage at this postage stamp of a restaurant (only about 20 seats) at the edge of the Old Port, where the ever-changing menu skews fresh and rustic: chef Damian Sansonetti plates up cavatelli with lamb neck ragout, grilled swordfish with beans and salsa verde, and other dishes his mom and grandma once made. Pastry chef Ilma Lopez is one of Portland’s hottest culinary talents, and her airy Italian donut holes, called zeppole, are a highlight. The tasting menu on Sunday nights is as fun and daring as the tiny room is social—there’s one 6:30 seating, and reservations are a must. At once cozy and sumptuous, Piccolo is my pick for the best date night in Portland.

111 Middle St. www.piccolomaine.com.  207/747-5307. Main courses $19–$27. Wed–Sun 5–10pm; Sun brunch 10:30am–2pm. Reservations recommended.

Sea Glass SEAFOOD/AMERICAN CLASSIC   At the house restaurant of the lovely Inn by the Sea (p. 88), chef Andrew Chadwick sticks to white-tablecloth classics with a pronounced emphasis on sustainable seafood. Expect well-executed meat-and-potatoes entrees such as pork chops, short ribs, and duck breast, along with unexpected (and underutilized) seafood offerings like Atlantic ocean perch (red fish) and mackerel.

40 Bowery Beach Rd., Cape Elizabeth. www.innbythesea.com.  800/888-4287 or 207/799-3134. Entrees $22–$35. Breakfast Mon–Sat. 7–11am; lunch and dinner daily 11:30am–3pm and 5–9pm.

Moderate

BaoBao Dumpling House ASIAN FUSION   Buzzy chef Cara Stadler opened this casual-hip dumpling depot as a more relaxed alternative to her much-praised and more formal Tao Yuan restaurant in nearby Brunswick. It’s fun ordering a la carte off the inventive dumpling menu—options like shrimp and bacon, Kung Pao chicken and peanut, and lamb and black bean chili play around with classic formulas for the small, steamed bundles beloved in China and beyond. As befits the hangout vibe of the narrow, sparsely adorned dining room, BaoBao has a great bar, with a really well curated selection of Maine craft beers, a nice sake list, and some bracing house cocktails. Kids welcome.

133 Spring St. www.baobaodumplinghouse.com  207/772-8400. Small plates $6–$12. Wed–Thurs 11:30am–10pm; Fri–Sat 11:30am–11pm; Sun 11:30am–9pm.

Benkay SUSHI   Among Portland’s sushi restaurants, Benkay is the hippest, usually teeming with a lively local crowd lured by the affordable menus. Chef Seiji Ando trained in Osaka and Kyoto; his sushi, sashimi, and maki rolls deliver a lot for the price, and there’s a wide range of choices and combinations. Standard Japanese bar-food items such as tempura (deep-fried vegetables), gyoza (dumplings), teriyaki, katsu (fried chicken or pork cutlets), and udon (thick noodles) are also served. For dessert, consider the green tea ice cream: deliciously bitter . . . and good for you. Sort of.

2 India St. (at Commercial St.). www.sushiman.com.  207/773-5555. Main courses $10–$22. Mon–Thurs 11:30am–2pm and 5–9:30pm; Fri 11:30am–2pm and 5–11pm; Sat 11:30am–11pm; Sun 11:30am–9pm. Reservations not accepted.

Drifters Wife WINE BAR   A tiny wine bar in a tiny wine shop with amazing food put out by a tiny kitchen—everything about Drifters Wife is diminutive except its burgeoning reputation. Bon Appétit called it one of the country’s 50 best new restaurants when it opened in 2016, and it’s almost certainly the only entry on that list where the chef (Ben Jackson) is working only with two induction burners and a half-size oven. Nonetheless, Jackson turns out exquisitely plated (really, they’re works of art) shareable portions of fresh local veggies and just-caught fish: maybe a head-and-all Atlantic mackerel with pistachio butter and fresh veggies, or chicken livers on toast with pickled egg and cucumbers. The wine list (like the picks at the surrounding Maine & Loire wine store) skews organic and biodynamic and additive-free.

63 Washington Ave. www.drifterswife.com.  207/805-1336. Entrees $13–$22. Tues–Sat 4–11pm. Reservations not accepted.

Duckfat CAFE   James Beard-award-winning chef Rob Evans left the fine dining world years ago to open this beloved bistro serving hand-cut Belgian-style fries with curried mayo, truffled ketchup, and other gourmet sauces, plus amazing poutine (Canadian-style fries with cheese curds and gravy), esoteric panini sandwiches (house-smoked brisket or duck confit, anyone?), beignets, and to-die-for milkshakes (with crème anglaise). The beer list is impeccable, and there is always a wait. Don’t let it deter you—no one in Portland doesn’t like this place.

43 Middle St. www.duckfat.com.  207/774-8080. Entrees $8–$14. Daily 11am–10pm. Reservations not accepted.

East Ender NEW AMERICAN   The best brunch in town (in my opinion) nails a delicate balance of sweet, savory, and experimental in a room that’s laid-back and welcoming. The plate of chicken and yeast-raised waffles will feed you for days, particularly if you are wise enough to also indulge in the house-made daily doughnut beforehand. Dinner is equally fun and exciting; the East Ender’s schtick is serving comforty faves that are inventive on the margins, like grilled duck with sauerkraut and gruyere, or a patty melt with lobster (and bacon jam) instead of beef, or chili-lime Brussels sprouts. It’s the kind of joint where you can wear a sport coat or a flannel shirt and not feel out of place either way.

47 Middle St. www.eastenderportland.com  207/879-7669. Dinner entrees $12–$18; lunch and brunch entrees $9–$15. Tues–Sat 11:30am–10pm; Sun 11am–9pm; Mon 11:30am–3:30pm.

The Grill Room & Bar AMERICAN   Good food served unpretentiously. Chef Harding Lee Smith, a Portland native, left Back Bay Grill, one of Portland’s legacy fine-dining establishments, to start his own local restaurant empire, including this mecca to meat. Most items are cooked on the open kitchen’s wood-fired grills, but there’s more than steak here: yummy seared-tuna sandwiches on ciabatta and thin-crust pizzas, for example. Of course, you can always get a steak (porterhouse, rib-eye, sirloin; the works) or a piece of grilled fish or chicken, and you’re encouraged to do so: There’s a card of tasty sauces running from “zippy” to “brandy cream” for your meat. The outdoor tables are ideal in summer, yet my favorite feature of the place is its bar area, with personable barkeeps, good beers on tap, and Red Sox on the flatscreen.

84 Exchange St. www.thegrillroomandbar.com  207/774-2333. Small plates and pizzas $7–$15; entrees $27–$51. Daily 11:30am–2:30pm and 5–10pm (Sun to 9pm). Reservations recommended.

Hi Bombay! INDIAN   The best Indian food in town, steps from the Old Port: fiery vindaloos, great mango lassi shakes, good shami korma, masala, and biryani dishes—and superb puffed-up poori fried breads. Get chutney and yogurt on the side.

1 Pleasant St. www.hibombay.com  207/772-8767. Entrees $10–$17. Sun–Thurs 11am–9:30pm; Fri–Sat 11am–10pm.

Rí Rá PUB   This Old Port chain eatery is styled after an Irish pub, though it’s somewhat fancier than real Irish pubs. (Patriots and Red Sox are on the TV instead of soccer—sorry, “footie.”) They’ve got the decor right, at least: the doors were imported from a pub in Kilkenny, and the back bar and counter are from other public drinking houses in County Louth. Upstairs beyond the pub is a dining room with a view of the docks; look for Irish breakfast all day, fish and chips, bangers and mash, shepherd’s pie, and Guinness bread pudding, plus a few more upscale dishes such as crab-filled salmon, Derrybeg pork (which is glazed with apricot, mustard, and cider), and boxty, a scallion-potato pancake topped with parsley sauce and meat. It’s a rowdy place on a weekend night, with good live music more often than not.

72 Commercial St. www.rira.com.  207/761-4446. Main courses $9–$20. Mon–Sun 10am–10pm; Sat–Sun 9am–10pm.

Two Lights Lobster Shack SEAFOOD   This seasonal takeout shack, festooned in farm implements and plunked down on a piece of rock practically atop a Cape Elizabeth lighthouse, is one of my favorite places to direct the new-to-Maine tourist. Yes, it’s touristy. But it’s been here forever; locals aren’t shy about heading out here for a bite; and you absolutely cannot beat the views. You’re looking at a panorama of the Atlantic while you wait for the kitchen to cook you pre-cracked, steamed lobsters (order a platter, with coleslaw and blueberry cake included). You can also get clams. Eat in the homey dining room or out on the picnic tables, which are set right out there on the open rocks; troll through the gift shop next door; and don’t forget to try or take home a whoopie pie for dessert.

225 Two Lights Rd., Cape Elizabeth. www.lobstershacktwolights.com  207/799-1677. Lobsters market priced. Late Mar to Oct daily 11am–8pm. Closed Nov to late Mar.

Woodford Food & Beverage CONTEMPORARY DINER   Not all the exciting dining around town is centered on the peninsula. Woodford F&B shares its building with a dry cleaner and a tanning salon, but the kitchen at this vinyl-boothed, formica-countertopped, family-friendly neo-diner turns out dishes every bit as ambitious as any reservations-only joint downtown. The menu’s full of comforting brasserie options such as steak and fries, luscious deviled eggs, and a seriously rich croquet madame, but you can also keep it simple with a burger or bibb salad. Feels like a neighborhood place, but attracts diners from all over town.

660 Forest Ave. www.woodfordfb.com.  207/774-1740. Entrees $14–$28, brunch dishes $12–$14. Wed–Sat 5–10pm; Sun 11am–8pm; Mon 5–9pm. Reservations not accepted.

Inexpensive

Becky’s DINER   This Portland institution resides in a squat concrete building at the not-so-quaint end of the waterfront. It’s been written up in Gourmet magazine, but that’s where the comparison to “fine dining” ends; this is a diner, Maine-style, complete with drop ceilings, fluorescent lights, and scruffy counters, booths, and tables. It opens early (4am) for the local fishermen grabbing a cup of joe and some eggs before heading out onto (or in from) the water; later in the day, it attracts high school kids, businessmen, and just about everyone else. The menu is extensive, offering what you’d expect: sandwiches, fried haddock, corn dogs, tuna melts, and milky bowls of chowder with just-caught fish. It’s notable for its breakfasts, including more than a dozen omelets, eggs any way you want ’em, pancakes, French toast, and five types of home fries.

390 Commercial St. www.beckysdiner.com.  207/773-7070. Breakfast items $4–$11; lunch and dinner items $4–$17. Daily 4am–9pm (until 10pm in summer).

To the Point

The redevelopment of the formerly industrial Thompson’s Point—which one local newspaper writer called “the biggest dump in Portland” as recently as 2011—is arguably a microcosm for the city’s recent cultural (and physical evolution). A long, 19th-century brick warehouse that once served as a storage facility for trains today houses a fleet of indie/artisan ventures. There’s a clowning and acrobatics school (with monthly cabaret performances) in Circus Maine ( 207/536-0768, www.circusmaine.org) and the Bigfoot-documenting International Museum of Cryptozoology (www.cryptozoologymuseum.com), not to mention the welcoming tasting room of the Stroudwater Distillery ( 207/536-7811, www.stroudwaterdistillery.com), a Portland outpost of Cellardoor Winery ( 207/536-7700, www.mainewine.com), and one of Maine’s finest craft brewers (and most bangin’ tap rooms) in Bissell Brothers (see p. 109). Big J’s Chicken Shack (www.bigjschicken.com;  207/747-4005) serves terrific fried chicken and mouth-singing Nashville hot chicken to the crowds that hop from door to door on weekends, augmented by the occasional food cart outside. If none of that’s enough to draw you to this out-of-the-way riverside post-industrial hotspot, a former railroad platform-shed hosts big-name concerts in the summer and a 10,000-square-foot ice rink in the winter.

Packing a picnic

Portland and its surrounding area is so stuffed with picnic spots you might need a week to sample them all. For starters, don’t miss the hilltop Eastern Promenade (p. 102), with expansive views of Casco Bay. The Western Promenade (p. 103), reached across town via Congress Street, has distant views of the White Mountains and often free musical performances in summer. For a tranquil water view, there’s Back Cove (p. 102). Just a few miles north of Portland along Route 1 in Falmouth, the Maine Audubon Society’s Gilsland Farm Sanctuary (p. 102) is one of the best picnic spots I’ve found. And, of course, the beaches and parks in Cape Elizabeth (see “Hitting the Beaches,” p. 104) are all superlative picnic spots. In metro Portland, make a quick fly-by of Standard Baking Company (p. 91) for great baked goods, sweets, and coffee. Cape Elizabeth has a few general stores good for stocking up prebeach; they’re heavy on sodas, beer, and candy, but you can also score an Italian sandwich or an ice-cream treat at most of them.

Blue Rooster Food Company SANDWICHES/GLOBAL   Great sandwiches, although most locals stop in for the piled-high tater tots or the creative hot dogs, natural-casing franks served with pineapple and bacon, pickled ginger and wasabi mayo, cheese curds and gravy, BBQ and jalapenos, you name it. Not much seating in this counter-service joint, so best to park it on a bench somewhere in the surrounding blocks of the Old Port.

5 Dana St. www.blueroosterfoodcompany.com.  207/747-4157. Sandwiches and hot dogs $5–$12. Sun–Thurs 11am–6pm; Fri–Sat 11am–2am.

Gilbert’s Chowder House CHOWDER/SEAFOOD   Gilbert’s is a very popular waterfront spot with tourists, and is nautical without taking the theme too far. The reasonable prices keep locals coming, too. The chowders are okay, if unspectacular; other choices include fried clams, haddock sandwiches, and various seafood you can order either broiled or fried. There’s also a basic lobster dinner with corn on the cob and a cup of clam chowder. Limited microbrews are on tap, and they serve decent cheesecake for dessert, among other choices.

92 Commercial St. www.gilbertschowderhouse.com.  207/871-5636. Chowders $5–$14; sandwiches $5–$16; main courses $12–$22. Daily 11am–9pm.

Seng Thai Food 2 SOUTHEAST ASIAN   For Thai food, this funky, lowbrow corner eatery has been best in town for some 25 years, and it must be good—doctors at the nearby hospital show up for cheap eats. Most everything costs less than $15, the Thai iced tea is excellent, and the head chefs (sisters, apparently) are unfailingly friendly. The cashew-nut entree with pineapple is great; you can’t go wrong with a standard order of pad Thai either. A good local bite.

921 Congress St. www.saengthaihousemaine.com  207/780-0900. Entrees $6–$16. Sun–Thurs 11am–9:30pm; Fri–Sat 11am–10pm.

Silly’s ECLECTIC   Silly’s has long been the favored cheap-eats joint of hip (and, particularly, crunchy) Portlanders. Situated on a busy, commercial street near the Eastern Promenade, the interior is informal, bright, and funky, with mismatched 1950s dinettes and a hodgepodge back patio beneath trees. There’s also an unhealthy fascination with Einstein here; like Einstein, the immense menu is creative. The place is noted for its roll-ups (“Abdullahs”), a series of tasty fillings piled into soft tortillas—try one with shish kabob and feta, or a “Diesel” made with pulled pork and coleslaw. The fries are hand-cut, the burgers big and juicy, and there’s beer on tap. Vegans and vegetarians also flock to Silly’s for wraps, noodle dishes, and monstrous salads, and the kitchen keeps a separate gluten-free fryer. Lots of fun, fruity cocktails and sangria by the pitcher keeps the mood pretty festive most nights.

40 Washington Ave. www.sillys.com.  207/772-0360. Most items $8–$14. Wed–Fri 11am–9pm; Sat–Sun 9am–9pm.

Susan’s Fish and Chips SEAFOOD   Zero pretense, zero frills, and what’s arguably the best fried fish in a fish town. The stuff’s fried up in a deliciously sandy, crunchy jacket that’s never too heavy, but rather just right. Get fries, and put ketchup or vinegar on them. Or bring your own catch: They’ll fry it! You’ve gotta love that.

1135 Forest Ave. www.susansfishnchips.com.  207/878-3240. Entrees $8–$23. Daily 11am–8pm.

Exploring Portland

Any visit to Portland should start with a stroll around the historic Old Port . Bounded by Commercial, Congress, Union, and Pearl streets, this area near the waterfront has the city’s best commercial architecture, a mess of boutiques, fine restaurants, and one of the thickest concentrations of bars on the eastern seaboard. (The Old Port tends to transform as night lengthens, with crowds growing younger and rowdier.) The narrow streets and intricate brick facades reflect a mid-Victorian era; most of the area was rebuilt following a devastating fire in 1866. Exchange Street is the heart of the Old Port, with other attractive streets running off and around it.

Just outside the Old Port, don’t miss the First Parish Church (see p. 100) at 425 Congress Street, a beautiful granite meetinghouse with an impressively austere interior that has changed little since 1826. A few doors down the block, Portland’s City Hall is at the head of Exchange Street. Modeled after New York City’s, it was built from granite in 1909. In a similarly regal vein is the U.S. Custom House, 312 Fore Street near the Old Port. The fine woodwork and marble floors here date to 1868.

Portland’s Top Attractions

Children’s Museum of Maine MUSEUM   The centerpiece exhibit in Portland’s kids’ museum is its camera obscura, a room-size “camera” located on the top floor of this stout, columned downtown building next to the art museum. Children gather around a white table in a dark room, where they see magically projected images that include cars driving on city streets, boats plying the harbor, and seagulls flapping by. This never fails to enthrall, providing a memorable lesson in the workings of lenses. That’s just one attraction; there are plenty more, from a simulated supermarket checkout counter to a firehouse pole to a mock space shuttle that kids pilot from a high cockpit.

142 Free St. (next to the Portland Museum of Art). www.kitetails.org.  207/828-1234. Admission $10, or $2 from 5 to 8pm 1st Fri of each month. Tues–Sun 10am–5pm (open until 8pm 1st Fri of each month).

Portland Attractions

First Parish Church CHURCH   Portland’s oldest continuously operating house of worship (continuous since at least 1674, believe it or not) is right here in the heart of the city, although the present-day structure was “only” built in 1825 to replace a previous wooden church building. Constructed of Maine granite quarried near Brunswick, Maine, it’s a narrow, graceful counterpoint to the modern high-rises encircling it. The rough granite blocks and clock tower are topped by a surprisingly graceful spire.

425 Congress St. at Temple St. www.firstparishportland.org.  207/773-5747. Admission free. Interior tours possible, by appointment.

Maine Narrow Gauge Railroad Co. & Museum MUSEUM   In the late 19th century, Maine was home to several narrow-gauge railways, operating on rails 2 feet apart. Most of these trains have disappeared, but this nonprofit organization is dedicated to preserving the examples that remain. There’s a small fee for admission to the museum only, while a more expensive ticket also includes a short ride on the little train that putters along Casco Bay at the foot of the Eastern Promenade. Views of the islands are attractive; the ride itself is slow, but your kids will undoubtedly enjoy it.

58 Fore St. www.mainenarrowgauge.org.  207/828-0814. Museum admission $3 adults, $2 seniors and children 3–12; train fare (includes museum admission) $10 adults, $9 seniors, $6 children 3–12, free for children 2 and under. May–Oct Sat–Thurs 9:30am–4pm, Fri 11:30am–4pm (trains run on the hour); closed Nov–Apr.

Portland Head Light & Museum LIGHTHOUSE   A short drive south from downtown Portland, this 1794 lighthouse is one of the most picturesque in the nation. You’ll probably recognize it from advertisements, calendars, or posters. The light marks the entrance to Portland Harbor and was occupied continuously from its construction until 1989, when it was automated and the graceful keeper’s house (built in 1891) was converted to a small, town-owned museum focusing on the history of navigation. The lighthouse itself is still active, and therefore is closed to the public, but visitors can stop by the museum or browse for lighthouse-themed items in a gift shop. The surrounding grounds of Fort Williams Park are great for picnics; if you’re traveling with kids, plan extra time for them to enjoy its two playgrounds and a brand new children’s garden full of winding paths, hopscotch stones, and tunnels.

1000 Shore Rd. (in Fort Williams Park), Cape Elizabeth. www.portlandheadlight.com.  207/799-2661. Free admission for grounds; museum admission $2 adults, $1 children 6–18. Park grounds open daily year-round sunrise–sunset (until 8:30pm in summer); museum daily Memorial Day–Oct 10am–4pm, weekends only mid-Apr–mid-May and Nov–early Dec.

Portland Museum of Art MUSEUM   The modern main building of Portland’s art museum, designed by I. M. Pei & Partners and opened in 1983, is an arresting red-brick presence on Congress Square, and it’s top-rate by every standard. The museum features selections from its own fine collections along with a parade of touring exhibits. (Summer exhibits are usually targeted at a broad audience.) The museum, which began as the Portland Art Society in 1882, has over the years amassed particularly strong holdings of American artists with Maine connections, including Winslow Homer, Andrew Wyeth, and Edward Hopper, and it has fine displays of Early American furniture and crafts. The museum shares with Colby College the Joan Whitney Payson Collection, which includes wonderful European works by Renoir, Degas, and Picasso, among other titans. Recent special exhibitions have brought the art books of Henri Matisse, photographs from Maine’s pioneering Rose Marasco, a retrospective of photorealist painter Richard Estes, and a juxtaposition of Warhol’s Mao with the Mona Lisa. The museum’s film series, shown on an auditorium big-screen, is a worthy substitute for the arthouse cinema Portland lacks. If you’re into American masters, check out the tour of the Winslow Homer Studio at Prout’s Neck in Cape Elizabeth, offered on Mondays and Fridays in the summer ($55, van trip from museum, call to reserve well ahead). Homer spent the last 26 years of his life there, staring at the rockbound coast and creating some of his most famous works.

7 Congress Square. (corner of Congress and High sts.). www.portlandmuseum.org.  207/775-6148. Admission $15 adults, $13 seniors, $10 students, kids 14 and under free; free admission Fri 4–8pm. Sat–Wed 11am–6pm, Thurs–Fri 11am–8pm; closed Mon–Tues from Columbus Day to Memorial Day.

Portland Observatory MUSEUM/LANDMARK   Atop Munjoy Hill, above the Eastern Promenade, this quirky shingled tower dating from 1807 was originally built to signal the arrival of ships into port. Exhibits inside provide a quick glimpse of Portland’s past, but the real draw is the expansive view from the top of the city and the harbor.

138 Congress St. www.portlandlandmarks.org.  207/774-5561. $10 adults, $8 seniors and students, $5 children 6–16. Daily Memorial Day–Columbus Day, 10am–5pm; last tour at 4:30pm.

Victoria Mansion HISTORIC HOME   Perhaps no building in Portland is more famous than this imposing High Victorian manse, built from 1858 to 1860 of brownstone after plans by New Haven architect Henry Austin. This home, also known as the Morse Libby House, is the nation’s premier showpiece of Victorian architecture. Details fill the interior, from wonderful and plentiful mural work to a grand staircase, gas-fueled chandeliers (“gasoliers”), Persian-style rugs hand-woven in Scotland, stained glass, nearly all the original furniture, and plaster work and cabinets by famed interior decorator Gustave Herter. Yes, it’s pricey and over the top, but a must-see for anyone serious about architectural history. The month of December is particularly lively here, with themed decorations, parties, tours, and special events.

109 Danforth St. www.victoriamansion.org.  207/772-4841. $15 adults, $13.50 seniors, $5 children 6–17, $35 family, free for children 5 and under. May–Oct Mon–Sat 10am–4pm, Sun 1–5pm; late Nov–early Jan daily 11am–4:30pm (Mon to 6:30pm). Tours twice per hour. Closed Nov and early Jan–Apr.

Wadsworth-Longfellow House HISTORIC HOME   This 18th-century, red-brick home is one of three structures containing the famous Portland writer Henry Wadsworth Longfellow’s boyhood home, as well as one of the state’s best historical archives: a history campus, if you will. This home was built by Gen. Peleg Wadsworth, grandfather of the poet, and is still furnished in early-19th-century style with some original furniture. Adjacent is the Maine History Gallery, a decent museum inside a former bank.

487-489 Congress St. www.mainehistory.org.  207/774-1822. $15 adults, $12 seniors and students, $3 kids 6–17. Wadsworth-Longfellow House May–Oct Mon–Sat 10am–5pm, Sun noon–4pm (tours on the hour); Nov–Apr Tues–Sat 10am–5pm.

Wonderful Walks

The city’s finest harborside stroll is along the Eastern Prom Pathway , which wraps for about a mile along the waterfront beginning at the Casco Bay Lines ferry terminal at the corner of Commercial and Franklin streets. This paved pathway is suitable for walking or biking, and offers expansive views of Casco Bay and its myriad (more than one for each day of the year) islands. Some have favorably compared this view with San Francisco’s; even if that’s stretching it a bit, you can’t go wrong here watching the weather and light come and go. The pathway skirts the lower edge of the Eastern Promenade , a 68-acre hillside park with broad, grassy slopes extending down to the water. Little East End Beach is also here, but the water is often off-limits for swimming (look for signs). The easiest place to park is near the beach and boat ramp. From downtown, head east on Congress Street until you can’t go any farther; turn right, and then take your first left on the road down the hill to the water’s edge.

The pathway continues on to Back Cove Pathway , a 31⁄2-mile loop around tidal Back Cove, offering attractive views of the city skyline across the water, glimpses of Casco Bay, and a bit of exercise. The pathway is the city’s most popular recreational facility; after work in summer, Portlanders flock here to walk, bike, jog, and windsurf (there’s enough water 21⁄2 hours before and after high tide). Part of the pathway shares a noisy bridge with I-295, and it can be unpleasant at a dead low tide; when the tides and the weather cooperate, however, it’s a nice spot for a walk. The main parking lot is located across from Hannaford Plaza at the water’s edge. Take exit 6 (Forest Ave. north) off I-295; turn right at the first light on Baxter Boulevard. At the next light, turn right again and park in the lot ahead on the left.

Back to Nature

Just a few miles north of Portland along Route 1 in Falmouth, the Maine Audubon Society’s Gilsland Farm Sanctuary is a lovely place to enjoy nature (and a perfect place for a picnic, if you’re so inclined). Gaze out on grassy fields, wildflowers, and tidewater. Afterward, explore the society’s intriguing displays, demonstration projects, and gift shops; this is clearly an organization that cares deeply about the state’s natural resources. What the heck? Become a member while you’re here.

Take Me Out to the Sea Dogs

The Portland Sea Dogs are a minor league Double-A team affiliated with the Boston Red Sox (a perfect marriage in baseball-crazy northern New England). They play through summer at Hadlock Field (217 Park Ave.; www.seadogs.com;  800/936-3647 or 207/879-9500), a delightful small stadium near downtown that still retains an old-time feel despite aluminum benches and other updating; it’s one of the better minor league parks at which I’ve ever attended a ballgame. Activities are geared toward families, with lots of entertainment between innings and a selection of food that’s a couple of notches above basic hot dogs and hamburgers. (Try the tasty fries and sausages, and make sure you get a Sea Dog biscuit: local vanilla ice cream between two chocolate chip cookies.) You might even catch future pro stars. The season runs from around April until around Labor Day.

On the other end of the peninsula is the Western Promenade . (Follow Spring Street westward to Vaughan Street; turn right and then take your first left on Bowdoin Street to the Prom.) This narrow strip of lawn atop a forested bluff has sweeping views across the Fore River west to the White Mountains in the distance (you can just make out the massive outline of Mount Washington on a clear day). The airport, Maine Mall, and paper mill in the foreground may be less than scenic, but still, it’s a great spot to watch the sun set. Around the Western Prom are some of the grandest and most imposing houses in the city that include a wide array of architectural styles, from Italianate to shingle to stick.

On the Water

Casco Bay Lines BOAT TOURS   Six of Casco Bay’s islands have year-round populations and are served by scheduled ferries from downtown Portland. Except for Long Island, the islands are part of the city of Portland. The ferries provide an inexpensive way to view the bustling harbor and get a taste of island life. Trips range from a 20-minute (one-way) excursion to Peaks Island (the closest thing to an island suburb, with 1,000 or so year-round residents) to the 51⁄2-hour narrated cruise (with a long lunch stopover) to Bailey Island (connected by bridge to the mainland south of Brunswick) and back. All of the islands are well suited for walking; Peaks Island has a rocky back shore that’s easily accessible via the island’s paved perimeter road (bring a picnic lunch). There’s also a bike rental outfit a few blocks from the island’s ferry dock. Long Island has a good hidden beach. Cliff Island is the most remote of the six-pack, with a sedate turn-of-the-20th-century character.

Commercial and Franklin sts. www.cascobaylines.com.  207/774-7871. Fares vary depending on the run and the season; summer rates $7–$12 round-trip. Frequent departures 6am–10pm.

Hitting the beaches

One of the supreme pleasures of visiting the Portland area is the opportunity to sample some of its many great beaches and lighthouse and ocean views. Even within Portland city limits, you can laze on the Eastern Promenade’s tiny East End Beach (see p. 102) for free; the views are great, though swimming there is a judgment call—a wastewater treatment plant looms nearby, although after years of cleanup efforts, city officials claim it’s safe for swimming. Across the bridge in South Portland, Willard Beach is a good neighborhood beach: small, with friendly locals, dogs, and tidal rocks to scramble over. There’s plenty of parking here.

For the best of the out-of-town beaches and views, though, strike out for Cape Elizabeth, a moneyed bedroom community just south of the city. (From Portland’s State Street, cross the Route 77 bridge going south, then follow signs.) You can choose from a trio of good beaches as you meander along Route 77, a lovely lane that occasionally recalls England with its sweeping views of marsh, ocean, or cultivated field.

Two Lights State Park ( 207/799-5871) is impressively scenic, and has the advantage of a decent lobster-and-seafood hut beside it: Two Lights Lobster Shack , open late March through October. The lobsters are smallish, lobster rolls meaty, clam chowder pretty good, and the views are sublime. Farther south on Route 77, Crescent Beach State Park ( 207/799-5871) is a lovely mile-long curve of sand, reached by a walk through beach roses; it has ample parking, barbecue pits, picnic tables, and a snack bar. Both charge a fee from Memorial Day to Columbus Day.

The town-operated Fort Williams State Park , located on Shore Road in Cape Elizabeth just off Route 77, offers free access and sweeping vistas of craggy waves crashing onto dramatic rocks, as well as the much-photographed Portland Head Light (see p. 100). Two to 3 miles farther south, turn left onto Route 207 for two more options: Scarborough Beach Park , on the left, another long strip of clean sand and dunes with changing facilities ($8 for access in summer) or—a bit farther along, on the right at the end of Ferry Road—quieter Ferry Beach State Park ( 207/283-0067), which has good views south toward Old Orchard Beach (see p. 110).

Shopping

Aficionados of antiques and secondhand furniture stores love Portland. Good browsing can be enjoyed along Congress Street; try the stretches between State and High streets in the arts district, or from India Street to Washington Avenue on Munjoy Hill. About a dozen shops of varying quality (mostly low-end) can be found in these two areas.

More serious antiques hounds may choose to visit an auction house or two. Two or three times per week, you’ll be able to find an auction within an hour’s drive of Portland. A good source of information is the Maine Sunday Telegram. Look in the classifieds for listings of auctions scheduled for the following week.

For new items, the Old Port, with its dozens of boutiques and storefronts, is well worth browsing. It’s especially strong in contemporary, one-of-a-kind clothing that’s a world apart from generic stuff you’d find at a mall. Artisan and crafts shops are also well represented.

antiques and vintage items

Allen & Walker Antiques    This is a great stop for New England, American, and Oriental items ranging from period oil paintings to antique furniture to sake sets . . . and much more. You just never know what you’ll find here on a given day, and both Allen and Walker really know their stuff. 684 Congress St.  207/772-8787.

Portland Flea For All    Vintage, antique, and artisan goods rule the day at this consignment coop in Bayside, a beautiful potpourri of furniture, jewelry, vinyl, and unclassifiable (but always cool) old junk. Around 100 vendors. 585 Congress St. www.portlandfleaforall.com  207/370-7570.

books

Print: A Bookstore    An indie shop in the super-hip Munjoy Hill neighborhood, Print has all the bestsellers, plenty of more obscure titles, and a super knowledgeable staff. Moreover, they bring in great authors for readings and events. 273 Congress St. www.printbookstore.com.  207/536-4778.

Yes Books    Once owned by legendary local poet Pat Murphy (sadly deceased), this bookshop is about as well organized as an artist’s bedroom, but so what? The first editions, philosophy, poetry, history, and prints here are amazing. 589 Congress St.  207/775-3233.

crafts and artisans

Abacus Gallery    A wide range of bold, inventive crafts of all varieties—from furniture to jewelry—is displayed on two floors of this centrally located shop. Even if you’re not in a buying frame of mind, this is a great place for browsing. 44 Exchange St. www.abacusgallery.com.  207/772-4880.

Maine Potters Market    Maine’s largest pottery collective has been in operation for 2 decades, and it’s open daily. You can select from a variety of distinctive styles crafted by local potters; shipping is easily arranged. 376 Fore St. www.mainepottersmarket.com.  207/774-1633.

Green Design Furniture    This inventive shop sells beautiful mission-inspired furniture, crafted of cherry and other woods, that disassembles for easy storage and travel. “Green,” by the way, isn’t ecobabble: The owner’s name is Doug Green. 250 Commercial St. www.greendesigns.com.  866/756-4730 or 207/775-4234.

Shopping at the maine Mall

The big Maine Mall takes up a huge chunk of real estate near the Portland Jetport in South Portland (easily reached off the Maine Turnpike via its own exit). The options here are uniformly bland—this could be Anywheresville, America—and there are no outlet or factory stores; you’ll pay full price, plus Maine state tax.

Still, if there’s something reassuring about being able to bop among the likes of Macy’s, Bath & Body Works, Victoria’s Secret, Pottery Barn, the Apple Store, and H&M, then sitting down with a coffee and a book or CD at Books-A-Million (in its own free-standing building), you might enjoy it. There’s not much that’s distinctive here, though the bookstore is very well stocked and the staff is helpful. Also check out the Sports Authority for low-priced sporting goods; watch for specials on exercise equipment, golf balls, camping gear, and the like.

Needless to say, there’s a food court here, though it isn’t very good. Consider dining at a nearby restaurant instead; a number of them surround the moatlike ring road that surrounds the mall and its acres of parking lots. Good choices include the Sebago Brewing Company for local beers and pub fare, or Taj, a respectable family-run Indian place with a lunch buffet to fuel your shopping spree.

fashion

Amaryllis Clothing Co.    Portland’s original creative clothing store, Amaryllis sells unique clothing for women, plus accessories such as lingerie, belts, and jewelry. It’s as comfortable as it is elegant: Colors are rich, patterns are unique, and some items are designed by local artisans. 41 Exchange St. www.amaryllisclothing.com.  207/772-4439.

gourmet

Harbor Fish Market    One of Portland’s several waterfront fish markets, it’s worth visiting just to see piles of fish hard-working guys have pulled out of the bay. You can buy smoked fish for your bagels, and lobsters packed safely for 24 hours’ worth of traveling. You can also buy picnic fixings. 9 Custom House Wharf (across from Pearl St.). www.harborfish.com.  207/775-0251.

LeRoux Kitchen    What’s a touristy shopping area without a crack kitchen store? Nothing. And this is Portland’s. You’ll find kitchen gadgets, made-in-Maine food products, and a good selection of wines at this Old Port shop. 161 Commercial St. www.lerouxkitchen.com.  207/553-7665.

Stonewall Kitchen    Maine’s homegrown Stonewall is a frequent winner at trade shows for its delicious mustards, jams, and sauces: ginger peach tea jam, sun-dried tomato and olive relish, maple chipotle grill sauce, and so on. Browse (and sample the goods) at its Old Port store, which also features frequent cooking classes. 182 Middle St. www.stonewallkitchen.com.  207/879-2409.

jewelry

D. Cole Jewelers    Jewelers Dean and Denise Cole produce lovely handcrafted gold and silver jewelry that’s always attractive, and often surprisingly affordable. Browse through elegant traditional designs, as well as more offbeat ones, at the bright, low-pressure shop; the staff is extremely helpful. 10 Exchange St. www.dcolejewelers.com.  207/772-5119.

Folia Jewelry    Original, handcrafted jewelry by owner Edith Armstrong (and some of Maine’s top designers) is nicely displayed at this tasteful shop in the heart of the Old Port. The rings are especially arty and nice. 50 Exchange St. www.foliajewelry.com.  207/761-4432.

Portland After Dark

Bars & Music

Portland is usually lively in the evenings, especially on summer weekends when the testosterone level in the Old Port seems to rocket into the stratosphere, with young men and women prowling the dozens of bars and spilling out onto Fore Street and the surrounding alleys and streets.

Among the Old Port bars favored by locals are Three-Dollar Dewey’s, at the corner of Commercial and Union streets (the popcorn is free); atmospheric Gritty Cuff’s Brew Pub, on Fore Street at the foot of Exchange Street, where you’ll find live music and a cast of regulars quaffing great beers brewed on-site; and the slightly rowdy Irish pub Brian Ború, on Center Street, with a rooftop patio. All three bars are casual and pubby, with guests sharing long tables with new companions.

Off the peninsula, check out The Great Lost Bear (540 Forest Ave., www.greatlostbear.com;  207/772-0300), a venerable locals hangout with 50 to 60 beers on offer at any given moment, including many Maine-crafted brews. Some of the choicest ales are even dispensed from one of three cask-conditioned hand pumps. Every Thursday the bartender showcases a particular brewer or style—a good way to get educated about the nuances of good beer. To find the Bear, head about 2 miles out on Forest Avenue (away from the Old Port), or ask a local for directions.

Beyond the active bar scene, a number of clubs offer a mix of live and recorded entertainment throughout the year. As is common in other small cities where there are more venues than attendees, clubs tend to come and go, sometimes quite rapidly. Check the city’s free weekly Portland Phoenix or monthly Dispatch for current venues, performers, and showtimes.

Both the Phoenix and the Dispatch are also good resources for concert schedules at Thompson’s Point (www.thompsonspointmaine.com—see box p. 96), the State Theatre (609 Congress St., www.statetheatreportland.com), or the open-air stage at the Maine State Pier (www.waterfrontconcerts.com), a very cool place to see a summer outdoor show, with the smell of salt on the air and the ferries coming and going right next door.

Performing Arts

Portland has a growing creative corps of performing artists. Theater companies typically take the summer off, but it doesn’t hurt to call or check the local papers for special performances.

let’s get hopping: the Beers of Portland

Portland is unquestionably the beer capital of New England. Not just northern New England, but all of New England—and it holds its own against most of the rest of the country, too, with more craft breweries per capita than any American city. In general, Maine’s craft brew scene is characterized by liberal pour laws that make tap rooms as popular as bars, plus a penchant for embracing (and reviving) Old World styles.

For starters, there’s the granddaddy of Belgian-style beer in the U.S. Head west out Forest Avenue (off Congress Street) a few miles, then turn right on Riverside Street and take the next right into an industrial park. You’ll come to Allagash Brewing at 50 Industrial Way (www.allagash.com,  800/330-5385 or 207/878-5385), a legend of a craft brewer that’s gained nationwide recognition for its Belgian-style white, double, and triple beers. Allagash offers daily tours from 11am to 4:30pm. The brewery is still crazy experimental—taps pouring at the spacious and rustic tap room include hard-to-find seasonal and limited release brews: wild-fermented beers, beers brewed with coffee or fruit or ginger, dry-hopped and barrel-aged beers, you name it. Still, it’s the company’s flagship brew, Allagash White, that holds a special place in many beer lover’s palates. Founding brewer Rob Tod’s Belgian white is as crisp and clean as an orange rind, and indeed he uses citrus peels in the mix, as well as coriander and other spices. It’s an exquisite beer that helped kick off this country’s craft brew revolution.

And while you’re out here, don’t miss three other topnotch brewers in the very same industrial park. Across the street from Allagash, at 1 Industrial Way, you’ll want to try the milk stout or the slightly sour, easy-drinking Lawn Mower saison from Austin Street Brewery ( 207/200-1994; www.austinstreetbrewery.com), then duck next door into Foundation Brewing Company ( 207/370-8187; www.foundationbrew.com), which, for my money, brews two of the crispest, tastiest IPAs in New England, the so-very-floral Afterglow and the bit-more-of-a-wallop Epiphany. The two tiny tap rooms are a great hang in the summer, when the party spills onto picnic tables out front. Then keep going around the circuit to find Geary’s (www.gearybrewing.com;  207/878-2337) at 38 Evergreen Drive, often credited as New England’s very first microbrewery. Geary’s year-round beers rely on a British yeast strain that’s a bit of an acquired taste, but the tap room also offers more diverse small-batch pours from the brewery’s pilot series.

Head down to the East Bayside District to find two of Portland’s buzziest brewers and most convivial tap rooms, a short walk from each other. Oxbow Blending and Bottling (www.oxbowbeer.com;  207/350-0025) is the Portland outpost of a farmhouse brewery headquartered up the coast, in Newcastle (p. 139). Its urban iteration pours super-crushable Old World farmhouse ales in a huge former warehouse decorated with an oh-so-Portland mix of b-boy graffiti and reclaimed barn wood. Though a bit hard to find (49 Washington Avenue, head into the alley next to the coffee shop), this place is a party on a Saturday night. Rising Tide Brewing Company (www.risingtidebrewing.com;  207/370-2337) at 103 Fox Street has a great patio with lawn games and food trucks and excels at lower-alcohol brews. Its Maine Island Trail Ale, at just 4.3% ABV, is crispy, citrusy, and beloved by Mainers in summer.

Off the peninsula, beer lovers literally line up around the block at Thompson’s Point (p. 96) when Bissell Brothers (www.bissellbrothers.com) releases cases of its newest batches. The 2,500-square-foot tap room (complete pinball, wall murals, and lofted hangout space) is often packed by noon with devotees of Bissell’s bright, strong, often opaque ales. A mile away (along the bikeable Fore River Parkway Trail), in a former warehouse at 17 Westfield Street, Bunker Brewing (www.bunkerbrewingco.com;  207/613-9471) is known for its easy-drinking flagship pilsner.

Incredibly, this list only scratches the surface of the more than 20 craft brewers operating in Greater Portland. You can taste a bunch at the Old Port’s superb Novare Res Bier Café (4 Canal Plaza, www.novareresbiercafe.com;  207/761-2437), a modern-day rathskeller with a bottle list 500 strong and an emphasis on obscure Euro imports. Come happy hour, the crowd is a mix of flannel-clad scenesters, tipsy businessmen, bemused out-of-towners, and salty types from down on the wharf. The best six-pack shopping is at the Bier Cellar (www.biercellar.com;  207/200-6258), just off the highway at 299 Forest Avenue.

Both Maine Beer Tours (www.mainebeertours.com;  207/553-0898) and the Maine Brew Bus (www.themainebrewbus.com;  207/245-1940) will shuttle you around from tap room to tap room (tour options vary widely, $40–$70 per person). For an exhaustive list of brewers and a map of the Maine Beer Trail, visit www.mainebrewersguild.org.

Portland Stage Company    The most polished and consistent of the Portland theater companies, Portland Stage offers crisply produced shows starring local and imported equity actors in a handsome, second-story theater just off Congress Street. About a half-dozen shows are staged throughout the season, which runs from about October to May. Recent productions have included A Song at Twilight, Heroes, God of Carnage, Shakespeare’s Julius Caesar, and world premieres by playwright Tom Coash and bestselling Maine novelist Monica Wood. Performing Arts Center, 25A Forest Ave. www.portlandstage.com.  207/774-0465. Tickets $35–$45 adults, discounts for students and seniors.

Portland Symphony Orchestra    The well-regarded Portland Symphony, headed by Robert Moody, whose last season with the symphony will end in 2018, offers a variety of performances throughout the season (typically September to May), ranging from pops concerts to Mozart; half the orchestra are Mainers, the rest New Englanders, and all are talented. Summer travelers should consider a Portland detour the week of July 4th, when the “Patriotic Pops” is held (weather permitting) at the city’s Eastern Prom. There are also special Christmas shows. 477 Congress St. www.portlandsymphony.com.  207/842-0800 for tickets, or 773-6128 for information. Tickets $32–$83, discounts for students and seniors.

Side Trips from Portland

Old Orchard Beach

About 12 miles south of Portland is the unrepentantly honky-tonk beach town of Old Orchard Beach, which offers considerable stimulus for the senses (not to mention bikers, fried dough, and French Canadians aplenty). This venerable Victorian-era resort is famed for its amusement park, pier, and a long, sandy beach that attracts sun-worshipers from all over.

Be sure to spend time and money on the stomach-churning rides at the beachside amusement park of Palace Playland (www.palaceplayland.com;  207/934-2001), and then walk on the 7-mile-long beach past the midrise condos that sprouted in the 1980s like a scale-model Miami Beach. The beach is broad and open at low tide; at high tide, space to plunk your towel down is at a premium.

In the evenings, teens and young adults dominate the town’s culture, spilling out of the video arcades and cruising the main strip. For dinner, do as the locals do and buy hot dogs, pizza, and cotton candy—and be sure to save your change for the arcades.

Just outside of “OOB,” as many Mainers call it, neighboring Saco has two often-mobbed waterparks, Aquaboggan (www.aquabogganwaterpark.com;  207/282-3112) and Funtown Splashtown USA (www.funtownusa.com;  207/284-5139). A more charming local institution is the Saco Drive-In , 969 Portland Road (www.sacodrivein.com;  207/286-3200), a lovingly maintained al fresco theater with a throwback snack shop—you can usually count on a kid-friendly earlier show and something for the grown-ups after.

Old Orchard Beach is just off Route 1 south of Portland. The quickest route is to leave the turnpike at exit 36 in Saco and then follow I-195 and the signs to the beach. Don’t expect to be alone here: Parking is tight, and the traffic can be horrendous during the peak summer months.

Sebago Lake

Maine’s second-largest lake is also its most popular. Ringed with summer homes, Sebago Lake attracts thousands of vacationers to its cool, deep waters.

You can take a tour of the outlying lakes and the ancient canal system between Sebago and Long lakes on the Songo River Queen II (www.songoriverqueen.net;  207/693-6861), a faux-steamship berthed in the town of Naples. Operating from July through Labor Day, the 1-hour trips cost $15 for adults, $8 for children ages 4–12. Longer tours and group rates are also available for a little more money.

Or just lie in the sun along the sandy beach at bustling Sebago Lake State Park ( 207/693-6613), on the lake’s north shore—the park is off Route 302 (look for signs on the south side of the road, between the towns of Raymond and South Casco). This park has shady picnic areas, a campground, a snack bar, and lifeguards on the beach. It can be uncomfortably crowded on sunny summer weekends; it’s best on weekdays. Bring food and charcoal for barbecuing at the shady picnic areas off the beach. (Tip: The park’s campground has a separate beach, and you don’t have to be camping there to enjoy it.; it’s located a distance from the day-use area, but it is much less congested during good weather.)

Park admission costs $8 for non-Maine resident adults, $2 for nonresident seniors, $1 for children. Camping sites tend to book up early in the season, but call to check ( 207/693-6231)—you might luck into a cancellation if you want a spot to pitch your tent.

Sabbathday Lake Shaker Community

Route 26, from Portland to Norway, is a speedy highway that runs past new housing developments and through hilly farmland. At one point, however, the road pinches through a cluster of stately historic buildings that stand proudly beneath towering shade trees. That’s the Sabbathday Lake Shaker Community (www.maineshakers.com;  207/926-4597), the last active Shaker community in the nation. The world’s two remaining Shakers living here today still embrace their traditional beliefs and maintain a communal, pastoral way of life. The bulk of the community’s income comes from the sale of herbs, which have been grown here since 1799.

Tours are offered a half-dozen times daily from Memorial Day through Columbus Day (in other words, mid-May through mid-October), providing a look at the grounds and several buildings, including the graceful 1794 meetinghouse. Exhibits in the buildings showcase the famed furniture handcrafted by the Shakers and include antiques made by Shakers at other U.S. communes. You’ll learn plenty about the Shaker ideology, with its emphasis on simplicity, industry, and celibacy. The tours begin at 10:30am; last tour starts at 3:15pm. After your tour, browse the gift shop for Shaker herbs and teas. The tour lasts 1 hour and 15 minutes and costs $10 for adults, $2 for children ages 6–12; it’s free for children 5 and under.

The village is about 45 minutes from Portland, on Route 26 near the attractive village of New Gloucester. From Portland, head northwest out Route 26 (Washington Avenue, reachable from I-295, U.S. Route 1, and Congress Street). Or, from southern Maine, take exit 63 from the Maine Turnpike; after exiting, follow signs into the center of downtown Gray and follow signs for Route 26 north and into the village. Don’t miss the farm stand, either, selling a wonderful array of dried herbs, flowers, and crafts farmed and crafted right on-site.