Marseille to Aix-en-Provence
Marseille to Aix-en-Provence Highlights
Marseille
Around Marseille
Les Calanques
Cassis
Cote Bleue
Pays d'Aix
Aix-en-Provence
Around Aix-en-Provence
Marseille to Aix-en-Provence
Why Go?
Radiating from the boat-lined Vieux Port, Marseille's irresistible magnetism draws you into its vibrant, polyglot heart. The city has undergone a facelift in recent years and now boasts world-class museums in showpiece buildings, myriad galleries and top-notch performing arts. It also retains earthy, bustling markets and districts spiced with Middle Eastern flavour, as well as fantastic restaurants. Allow yourself at least 48 hours to take in Marseille's compelling sights, its azure coast, and the dramatic Les Calanques – rocky inlets gashed by the seas of the ice age, resulting in the spectacular coastline that snakes southeast to Cassis. Heading north from Marseille, the landscape softens to the green and purple hues of the Pays d’Aix (Aix Country) that Cézanne loved so much, with charming, bourgeois Aix-en-Provence at its centre.
Driving Distances (km)
Best Places to Eat
A Le Rhul
Best Places to Stay
Marseille to Aix-en-Provence Highlights
1 Peruse the explosion of new galleries and museums in Marseille, like MuCEM.
2 Stroll Marseille's Vieux Port before settling into a sunny cafe for people-watching.
3 Dip into the rocky coves of Calanque de Sormiou and Calanque de Morgiou for gorgeous walks and lunch with sea views.
4 Restaurant-hop around mod bistros in Marseille or sup bouillabaisse at classic coastal restaurants like Le Rhul.
5 Drive the high-drama Route des Crêtes (Road of Crests) before wine tasting at Cassis.
6 Revel in elegant architecture and fine arts in Aix-en-Provence.
7 Climb Montagne Ste-Victoire, one of Cézanne's inspirations.
8 Follow in the footsteps of the Count of Monte Cristo at Château d'If, or picnic at neighbouring Îles du Friou.
Marseille
Pop 858,902
Marseille is a rich, pulsing port city bubbling over with history, cutting-edge creative spaces and hip multicultural urbanites. Since Greek settlers came ashore around 600 BC, waves of immigrants have made Marseille (now France's second-largest city) their home.
The city is looking fabulous after its tenure as the European Capital of Culture in 2013. Its maritime heritage thrives at the vibrant Vieux Port (Old Port), or you can explore the ancient Le Panier neighbourhood, set on a hill above the water; the République quarter, with its swanky boutiques and Haussmannian buildings; and the stunning contemporary architecture of the Joliette area around Marseille’s famous striped Cathédrale de la Major. Along the coast, seaside roads and cycling tracks veer around sun-scorched coves and sandy beaches.
History
Around 600 BC, Greek mariners founded Massilia, a trading post, at what is now Marseille's Vieux Port. In the 1st century BC, the city lost out by backing Pompey the Great rather than Julius Caesar: Caesar’s forces captured Massilia in 49 BC and directed Roman trade elsewhere.
Marseille became part of France in the 1480s, but its citizens embraced the Revolution, sending 500 volunteers to defend Paris in 1792. Heading north, they sang a rousing march, ever after dubbed 'La Marseillaise' – now the national anthem. Trade with North Africa escalated after France occupied Algeria in 1830 and the Suez Canal opened in 1869. After the world wars, a steady flow of migration from North Africa began and with it the rapid expansion of Marseille's periphery.
1Sights
Marseille is divided into 16 arrondissements (districts). Sights concentrate around the Vieux Port and Le Panier districts. Dynamic dockland redevelopment is transforming La Joliette to the north.
The city’s main thoroughfare, La Canebière stretches east from Vieux Port towards the train station. Various morning markets fill earthy cours Julien, an elongated square with palm trees: fresh flowers on Wednesday and Saturday, antique books alternate Saturdays, and stamps or antique books on Sunday.
The tourist office has a brochure detailing a walking tour of Marseille's museums.
oVieux PortHISTORIC QUARTER
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; 
mVieux Port)
Ships have docked for more than 26 centuries at the city’s birthplace, the colourful Old Port. The main commercial docks were transferred to the Joliette area north of here in the 1840s, but the old port remains a thriving harbour for fishing boats, pleasure yachts and tourists. Guarding the harbour are Fort St-Nicolas (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; 
h8am-7.45pm May-Aug, shorter hours rest of year; mVieux Port) on the south side and, across the water, Fort St-Jean, founded in the 13th century by the Knights Hospitaller of St John of Jerusalem, and home to MuCEM, the state-of-the-art museum.
The cross-port ferry (
GOOGLE MAP
; h10am-1.15pm & 2-7pm; mVieux Port) in front of the town hall is a fun way to get out on the water, however briefly.
The port’s southern quay is dotted with theatres and bars, and restaurants and cafes buzz until the wee hours a block east on place Thiars and cours Honoré d’Estienne d’Orves.
Nearby Abbaye St-Victor (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; 3 rue de l'Abbaye; h9am-7pm; mVieux Port) is the birthplace of Christianity in Marseille, built on a 3rd-century-BC Greek necropolis. Musée du Santon (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; 
%04 91 13 61 36; www.santonsmarcelcarbonel.com; 49 rue Neuve Ste-Catherine; h10am-12.30pm & 2-6.30pm; mVieux Port) with its boutique and neighbouring Atelier du Santon (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; 47 rue Neuve Ste-Catherine; mVieux Port) are home to handcrafted tiny kiln-fired figures or santons (from santoùn in Provençal, meaning ‘little saint’). The custom of creating a nativity scene with figurines dates from the Avignon papacy of John XII (1319–34).
Perched at the peninsula’s edge, the Jardin du Pharo (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; mVieux Port) is a perfect picnic spot and ideal for watching sunsets.
oLe PanierHISTORIC QUARTER
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; mVieux Port)
From the Vieux Port, hike north up to this fantastic history-woven quarter, which is fabulous for a wander with its artsy ambience, cool hidden squares and sun-baked cafes. In Greek Massilia it was the site of the agora (marketplace), hence its name, which means ‘the basket’. During WWII the quarter was dynamited and afterwards rebuilt. Today it’s a mishmash of lanes hiding artisan shops, ateliers (workshops) and terraced houses strung with drying washing.
Its centerpiece is Centre de la Vieille Charité, and nearby Cathédrale de la Major stands guard between the old and new ports.
oMusée des Civilisations de l’Europe et de la MéditerranéeMUSEUM
(MuCEM, Museum of European & Mediterranean Civilisations;
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 84 35 13 13; www.mucem.org; 7 Promenade Robert Laffont; J4 adult/child €5/free, plus temporary exhibitions €8/free, 1st Sun of month free; h10am-8pm Wed-Mon Jul & Aug, 11am-7pm Wed-Mon Sep, Oct, May & Jun, 11am-6pm Wed-Mon Nov-Apr; 
c; mVieux Port or Joliette)
The icon of modern Marseille, this stunning museum explores the history, culture and civilisation of the Mediterranean region through anthropological exhibits, rotating art exhibitions and film. The collection sits in a bold, contemporary building, J4, designed by Algerian-born, Marseille-educated architect Rudy Ricciotti. It is linked by a vertigo-inducing footbridge to the 13th-century Fort St-Jean (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; mVieux Port), from which there are stupendous views of the Vieux Port and the Mediterranean. The fort grounds and their gardens are free to explore.
The history of the fort is explained in the Salle du Corps de Garde (guardhouse room). For a unique perspective, walk the path that twists its way between the glass wall of the J4 building and its outer lace shell. Free first Sunday of the month.
oVilla MéditerranéeMUSEUM
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.villa-mediterranee.org; bd du Littoral, esplanade du J4; hnoon-6pm Tue-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun; c; mVieux Port or Joliette)
F
This eye-catching white structure next to MuCEM is no ordinary 'villa'. Designed by architect Stefano Boeri in 2013, the sleek white edifice sports a spectacular cantilever overhanging an ornamental pool. Inside, a viewing gallery with glass-panelled floor (look down if you dare!), and two or three temporary multimedia exhibitions evoke aspects of the Mediterranean, be they sea life, history or transport.
oCentre de la Vieille CharitéMUSEUM
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; http://vieille-charite-marseille.com; 2 rue de la Charité; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun; mJoliette)F
In the heart of the Le Panier quarter is the Centre de la Vieille Charité, built as a charity shelter for the town’s poor by local architect and sculptor Pierre Puget (1620–94). The beautiful complex, with stunning arched sienna-stone courtyard, houses rotating exhibitions and two small museums: the Musée d'Archéologie Méditerranéenne (Museum of Mediterranean Archeology;
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 91 14 58 59; http://musee-archeologie-mediterraneenne.marseille.fr; adult/child €5/free; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun; mJoliette) and the Musée d'Arts Africains, Océaniens et Améridiens (Museum of African, Oceanic & American Indian Art;
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 91 14 58 38; http://maaoa.marseille.fr; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun; mJoliette), as well as a relaxing cafe.
oCathédrale de Marseille Notre Dame de MajorCATHEDRAL
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; h10am-6.30pm Tue-Sun; mJoliette)F
Standing guard between the old and new ports is the striking 19th-century Cathédrale de la Major. Its Byzantine-style striped facade is made of local Cassis stone and green Florentine marble. It has a newly renovated grand staircase on the north side, which makes an impressive gateway to La Joliette.
Central Marseille
1Top Sights
1Sights
4Sleeping
5Eating
6Drinking & Nightlife
3Entertainment
7Shopping
La JolietteHISTORIC QUARTER
(mJoliette, 
jJoliette)
North of Le Panier along the waterfront, the old maritime neighbourhood of La Jolliette has been reborn. Ferries still depart for ports around the Med, but the long sweep of 19th-century commercial facades along Quai de la Joliette have been given an impressive scrub.
Les Docks (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; 10 place de la Joliette; mJoliette, jJoliette) is a historic complex that has been redeveloped and includes shops and galleries akin to London's Docklands.
Nearby, Les Terraces du Port (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; 9 quai de Lazaret; h10am-8pm; mJoliette, jJoliette) is a vast new shopping mall filled with upscale international chains. It has a huge public terrace on level 2 with fab views of the port and coast.
oMusée CantiniART MUSEUM
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 91 54 77 75; http://musee-cantini.marseille.fr; 19 rue Grignan; adult/child €5/free; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun; mEstrangin-Préfecture)
Behind grand gates inside a 17th-century hôtel particulier (mansion), the recently renovated Musée Cantini has superbly curated art exhibitions, and excellent permanent collections of 17th- and 18th-century Provençal art, including André Derain's Pinède, Cassis (1907) and Raoul Dufy's Paysage de l'Estaque (1908). Expect the best of contemporary and modern art, brilliantly hung.
oMusée des Beaux ArtsART MUSEUM, PALACE
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 91 14 59 30; http://musee-des-beaux-arts.marseille.fr; 7 rue Édouard Stephan; adult/child €5/free; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun; c; mCinq Avenues-Longchamp, jLongchamp)
Spectacularly set in the colonnaded Palais de Longchamp, Marseille’s oldest museum is a treasure trove of Italian and Provençal painting and sculpture from the 17th to 21st centuries. The palace's shaded park is one of the centre’s few green spaces, and is popular with local families. The spectacular fountains were constructed in the 1860s, in part to disguise a water tower at the terminus of an aqueduct from the River Durance.
Musée d’Histoire de MarseilleMUSEUM
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 91 55 36 00; http://musee-histoire.marseille.fr; 2 rue Henri-Barbusse; adult/child €5/free; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun; mVieux Port)
In a completely renovated, 15,000-sq-metre modern space within the Centre Bourse shopping mall, this museum offers fascinating insight into Marseille’s long history. Highlights include the remains of a 3rd-century-AD merchant vessel, discovered in the Vieux Port in 1974. To preserve the soaked and decaying wood, it was freeze-dried where it now sits behind glass.
oBasilique Notre Dame de la GardeCHURCH
(Montée de la Bonne Mère;
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.notredamedelagarde.com; rue Fort du Sanctuaire; h7am-8pm Apr-Sep, to 7pm Oct-Mar; 
g60)F
This opulent 19th-century Romano-Byzantine basilica occupies Marseille's highest point, La Garde (162m). Built between 1853 and 1864, it is ornamented with coloured marble, murals depicting the safe passage of sailing vessels and superb mosaics. The hilltop gives 360-degree panoramas of the city. The church's bell tower is crowned by a 9.7m-tall gilded statue of the Virgin Mary on a 12m-high pedestal. It’s a 1km walk from the Vieux Port, or take bus 60 or the tourist train.
La Friche La Belle de MaiCULTURAL CENTRE
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 95 04 95 04; www.lafriche.org; 41 rue Jobin; g49, stop Jobin)
This former sugar-refining plant and subsequent tobacco factory is now a vibrant arts centre with a theatre, artists' workshops, cinema studios, multimedia displays, skateboard ramps, electro/world-music parties et al – check its program online.
L’Unité d’HabitationARCHITECTURE
(La Cité Radieuse;
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 91 16 78 00; www.marseille-citeradieuse.org; 280 bd Michelet; h9am-6pm daily; g83 or 21, stop Le Corbusier)F
Visionary international-style architect Le Corbusier redefined urban living in 1952 with the completion of his vertical 337-apartment ‘garden city’, also known as La Cité Radieuse (The Radiant City). Today mostly private apartments, it also houses a hotel, Hôtel Le Corbusier, the high-end restaurant Le Ventre de l’Architecte and a rooftop terrace. Architecture buffs can book guided tours (adult/child €10/5) that include a model apartment; contact the tourist office.
DON'T MISS
ART GALLERIES & MUSEUMS
Marseille's galleries and museums have flourished in recent years. In addition to the many makeovers of local institutions like La Friche La Belle de Mai, the Musée des Beaux Arts and the Musée Cantini, spectacular new facilities have been built for MuCEM and the Fonds Régional d'Art Contemporain (FRAC;
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 91 91 27 55; www.fracpaca.org; 20 bd de Dunkerque; adult/child €5/free; hnoon-7pm Tue-Sat; mJoliette). The outstanding arts organisation Marseille Expos (www.marseilleexpos.com) distributes an excellent map of hot galleries and sponsors the festival Printemps de l'Art Contemporain each May. Its website lists what's on.
Along the Coast
Mesmerising views of another Marseille unfold along corniche Président John F Kennedy, the coastal road that cruises south to small, beach-volleyball-busy Plage des Catalans (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; 3 rue des Catalans; h8.30am-6.30pm; g83) and fishing cove Vallon des Auffes (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; g83), crammed with boats.
Further south, the vast Prado beaches, are marked by Jules Cantini’s 1903 marble replica of Michelangelo’s David. The beaches, all gold sand, were created from backfill from the excavations for Marseille’s metro. They have a world-renowned skate park. Nearby lies expansive Parc Borély.
Promenade Georges Pompidou continues south to Cap Croisette, from where the beautiful calanques can be reached on foot.
To head down the coast, take bus 83 from the Vieux Port. At av du Prado switch to bus 19 to continue further. La Navette Maritime Vieux Port–Pointe Rouge (%04 91 91 92 10; www.rtm.fr; €5, good for 90min on all public transport; hhourly late Apr-Sep) runs boats between Vieux Port and La Pointe-Rouge, just to the south of the Prado beaches; the City Pass does not cover the ticket.
Parc BorélyPARK, GALLERY
(
GOOGLE MAP
; av du Parc Borély; g19, 83, stop Parc Borély)
Parc Borély encompasses a lake, botanical garden and the just-renovated 18th-century Château Borély, hosting art exhibitions.
Musée d’Art ContemporainART MUSEUM
(Museum of Contemporary Art, MAC;
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 91 25 01 07; http://mac.marseille.fr; 69 av de Haïfa; adult/child €5/free; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun; g23 or 45, stop Haïfa-Marie-Louise)
Creations of Marseille-born sculptor César Baldaccini (1921–98) jostle for space with works by Christo, Nice new realists Ben and Klein, and Andy Warhol. From the Prado metro stop, take bus 23 or 45 to the Haïfa-Marie-Louise stop.
oChâteau d'IfISLAND, CASTLE
(
GOOGLE MAP
; www.if.monuments-nationaux.fr; adult/child €5.50/free; h9.30am-6.10pm mid-May–mid-Sep, shorter hours rest of year)
Immortalised in Alexandre Dumas’ classic 1844 novel Le Comte de Monte Cristo (The Count of Monte Cristo), the 16th-century fortress-turned-prison Château d’If sits on the tiny Île d’If, 3.5km west of the Vieux Port. Political prisoners were incarcerated here, along with hundreds of Protestants, the Revolutionary hero Mirabeau and the Communards of 1871.
Frioul If Express ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.frioul-if-express.com; 1 quai des Belges) boats leave for Château d'If (€10.50 return, 20 minutes, around nine daily) from the Vieux Port.
Îles du FrioulISLANDS
A few hundred metres west of Île d’If are the Îles du Frioul, the barren, dyke-linked, white-limestone islands of Ratonneau and Pomègues. Seabirds and rare plants thrive on these tiny islands, which are each about 2.5km long, totalling 200 hectares. Ratonneau has three beaches. Frioul If Express boats to Château d'If also serve the Îles du Frioul (one/two islands €10.50/15.60 return, 35 minutes, around 20 daily).
TTours
L'Open TourBUS TOUR
(%04 91 91 05 82; www.marseille.opentour.com; adult/child €19/8)
Travel between key sights and museums aboard a hop-on, hop-off open-top bus. Tickets at the tourist office or on board.
Guided TourWALKING TOUR
(www.resamarseille.com; tours €9; hMay-Aug; mVieux Port)
From the tourist office.
Marseille Provence GreetersWALKING TOUR
(www.marseilleprovencegreeters.com)F
Walking tours led by locals; website registration required a week in advance.
Tourist TrainTRAIN TOUR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 91 25 24 69; www.petit-train-marseille.com; 174 quai du Port; h10am-12.30pm & 2-6pm; mVieux Port)
Electric trams with two circular routes: to Notre Dame basilica (year-round; adult/child €8/4) and Le Panier (April to mid-November; adult/child €7/3). Tours last 65 minutes and depart every 30 minutes, less frequently in winter.
Croisières Marseille CalanquesBOAT TOUR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 91 33 36 79; www.croisieres-marseille-calanques.com; Vieux Port; mVieux Port)
Runs two-hour return trips from the Vieux Port taking in six calanques (family/adult/child €74/23/18); three-hour return trips past 12 calanques to Cassis (family/adult/child €92/29/22); and 1½-hour trips around the Baie de Marseille (€10), including Château d'If (add €5.50).
Icard MaritimeBOAT TOUR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.visite-des-calanques.com; quai des Belges; mVieux Port)
Runs trips to the calanques and the coastal islands, including one option that stops for a swim (four hours, €32).
MARSEILLE IN...
TWO DAYS
Start at the Vieux Port with breakfast at La Caravelle and a waterside stroll to the cutting-edge MuCEM and Villa Méditerranée. Lunch at La Passarelle, then hike up to the Basilique Notre Dame de la Garde or explore Le Panier, not missing the Centre de la Vieille Charité. Dine at nearby, excellent Le Café des Épices.
On day two, take in magnificent turquoise waters at Les Calanques, or catch a boat to revel in Monte Cristo intrigues at Château d’If. Reward your exploration with bouillabaisse in postcard-pretty Vallon des Auffes.
FOUR DAYS
Make art and architecture the centre of the third day, taking in the Musée des Beaux Arts and other galleries. In the evening, visit artsy cours Julien for an aperitif, before dinner at La Cantinetta. On the fourth day, take your own picnic and sail to the Îles du Frioul to lounge in a natural paradise of birdlife and pebble beach and in the evening soak up Marseille's ebullient nightlife, or spend the day exploring Aix-en-Provence.
zFestivals & Events
Carnaval de MarseilleCARNIVAL
(hMar or Apr)
Marseille's version of Carnival, with mad costumes and decorated floats.
Festival de MarseillePERFORMING ARTS
(www.festivaldemarseille.com; hJun-Jul)
Three weeks of international dance, theatre, music and art.
Five Continents Jazz FestivalMUSIC FESTIVAL
(www.festival-jazz-cinq-continents.com; hJul)
Acid jazz, funk and folk music.
Foire aux SantonniersCHRISTMAS
(hDec)
Since 1803 traditional santon makers have flocked to Marseille for this fair.
ONLINE RESOURCES
AMarseille Tourisme (www.marseille-tourisme.com)
AMarseille City Website (www.marseille.fr)
AVisit Provence (www.visitprovence.com) Bouches du Rhône département; great itineraries.
4Sleeping
There are modest hotels close to the train station, but the good local-transit system means that it's easy to reach the hotels scattered around the Vieux Port. There's also a hotel in Le Corbusier's L’Unité d’Habitation.
oHôtel HermèsDESIGN HOTEL€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 96 11 63 63; www.hotelmarseille.com; 2 rue Bonneterie; s €64, d €85-102; 
a
W; mVieux Port)
Nothing to do with the Paris design house, this excellent-value hotel has a rooftop terrace with panoramic Vieux Port views. Grab breakfast (€9) on a tray in the bright breakfast room and ride the lift to the 5th floor to eat à la rooftop. Contemporary rooms have white walls and a splash of lime-green or red to complement their Scandinavian-like design.
Vertigo Saint-CharlesHOSTEL€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 91 91 07 11; www.hotelvertigo.fr; 42 rue des Petites Maries; dm from €25; 
iW; mGare St-Charles)
This snappy boutique hostel kisses dodgy bunks and hospital-like decor goodbye. Here it’s ‘hello’ to vintage posters, designer chrome kitchen, groovy communal spaces and polite multilingual staff. Double rooms are particularly good; some have a private terrace. No curfew (or lift, alas). A second, all-dorm facility is closer to the Vieux Port.
Hôtel RelaxHOTEL€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 91 33 15 87; www.hotelrelax.fr; 4 rue Corneille; r €60-70; aW; mVieux Port)
Overlooking Marseille’s Opera House, this simple, family-run, 20-room hotel lacks good noise insulation and space, but given the location, cleanliness and extras like fridges and hairdryers, it’s a bargain. No lift.
Hôtel SylvabelleHOSTEL€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 91 37 75 83; www.hotel-sylvabelle-marseille.com; 63 rue Sylvabelle; dm €23, r from €60; W; mEstrangin-Préfecture)
The Hôtel Sylvabelle is clean and fresh, and has managed to retain very attractive prices. Six of the 20 rooms share toilets on the landing, the rest are en suite. The furnishings are simple; service can be perfunctory. The dorms can get noisy. There's no lift.
oHôtel Edmond RostandDESIGN HOTEL€€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 91 37 74 95; www.hoteledmondrostand.com; 31 rue Dragon; d €90-115, tr €127-141; aiW; mEstrangin-Préfecture)
Ignore the grubby outside shutters of this excellent-value Logis de France hotel in the Quartier des Antiquaires. Inside, decor is a hip mix of contemporary design and vintage, with a great sofa area for lounging and 16 rooms dressed in crisp white and soothing natural hues. Some rooms overlook a tiny private garden, others the Basilique Notre Dame de la Garde.
oHôtel St-LouisHOTEL€€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 91 54 02 74; www.hotel-st-louis.com; 2 rue des Récollettes; r €90-140; aW; mNoailles, jCanebière Garibaldi)
The vintage-1800s facade draws the eye. Inside, thoughtfully remodelled rooms (some with little balconies), good mattresses, wooden furniture, a central location and an elevator (starting on the 1st floor) ensure comfort. Service is extremely helpful and services such as laundry are a bargain.
oAu Vieux PanierB&B€€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 91 91 23 72; www.auvieuxpanier.com; 13 rue du Panier; d €100-140; mVieux Port)
The height of Le Panier shabby chic, this super-stylish maison d'hôte woos art lovers with original works of art. Each year artists are invited to redecorate, meaning its six rooms change annually. Staircases and corridors are like an art gallery, and a drop-dead gorgeous rooftop terrace peeks across terracotta tiles to the sea on the horizon.
DecohSELF-CONTAINED€€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 91 37 74 95; www.decoh.fr; 31-33 rue Dragon; apt & studios €125-180; aiW)
The creative, vintage-loving team at the Edmond Rostand hotel are behind this appealing, hotel-serviced self-catering accommodation on rue Paradis, rue Dragon and rue Albert. Studios sleep two people and apartments four; the super-stylish antique furniture recalls eras from the 1950s to the 1970s. Stay a night, a week or a month. Cook for yourself, or breakfast at the Hôtel Edmond Rostand.
Le RyadBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 91 47 74 54; www.hoteldemarseille.fr; 16 rue Sénac de Meilhan; s €80-125, d €95-140; Wc; mNoailles, jCanebière Garibaldi)
With high ceilings, arched alcoves, warm colours and minimalist decor, super-stylish Le Ryad draws sumptuous influence from Morocco. Beautiful bathrooms, garden-view rooms and great service compensate for the sometimes sketchy neighbourhood. Despite the four-storey walk up, it’s worth booking the top-floor room for its tiny rooftop terrace. Breakfast €12.
Hôtel La Résidence du Vieux PortDESIGN HOTEL€€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 91 91 91 22; www.hotel-residence-marseille.com; 18 quai du Port; d €125-200, tr €185-204; aiW; mVieux Port)
Marseille’s top-view hotel is The Jetsons meets Mondrian, with swoop-backed furniture and bold primary colours. Every room looks sharp, and more expensive portside rooms have balconies with knockout views of the old port and Notre Dame. The ultimate is the 8th-floor Suite Ciel (Sky Suite).
Mama ShelterDESIGN HOTEL€€
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %01 43 48 48 48; www.mamashelter.com; 64 rue de la Loubière; d €69-149; aWc; mNotre Dame du Mont-Cours Julien)
Sleeping in Marseille doesn't get much funkier than this. With design by Philippe Starck, nifty extras like Kiehl's bathroom products, and free in-room movies, this is the affordable-chic kid on the block.
oHôtel Le RichelieuHOTEL€€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 91 31 01 92; www.lerichelieu-marseille.com; 52 corniche Président John F Kennedy; d €90-120; aiW; g83)
An eternal favourite for its beach-house vibe and fabulous sea views, this coastal choice near Plage des Catalans is excellent value. Rooms are oddly shaped, but the owners keep them looking fresh, and the best even face the Med. Breakfast (€14) on the terrace is a morning treat of which you'll never tire.
Hotel BellevueHOTEL€€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 96 17 05 40; www.hotelbellevuemarseille.com; 34 quai du Port; d €90-170; aiW; mVieux Port)
Rooms at this old-fashioned hotel are tastefully decorated with midbudget simplicity, but their portside views are million-dollar. Breakfast (€10) on the pocket-sized balcony of its cafe-bar La Caravelle – Marseille’s coolest portside spot – is a Marseille highlight.
Hôtel Saint-FerréolHOTEL€€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 91 33 12 21; www.hotelsaintferreol.com; 19 rue Pisançon; d €99-140; aiW; mVieux Port)
Service is exceptional at this traditional three-star hotel, tucked down an alley off one of Marseille's main shopping streets. Rooms are individually decorated, many inspired by artists like Van Gogh and Cézanne, with spotless bathrooms, powerful air-con and quality double glazing that ensures perfect peace. Breakfast €10.50.
Villa MonticelliB&B€€
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 91 22 15 20; www.villamonticelli.com; 96 rue du Commandant Rolland; r €110-120; aW; g83 or 19, stop Prado St-Giniez, mRond-Point du Prado)
Colette and Jean are passionate about their city, and the five exquisite chambre d’hôte rooms in their stunning villa are worth the slightly outer-city location. Breakfast is a delight of homemade local specialities served on the panoramic-view terrace.
oIntercontinental Marseille – Hôtel DieuHOTEL€€€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %4 13 42 42 42; www.marseille.intercontinental.com; 1 place Daviel; r €230-600; aiW
s; mColbert, jSadi Carnot)
Landmark is an understatement. Based on an 18th-century hospital, the Hôtel-Dieu, the Intercontinental has a commanding position in Le Panier, overlooking the Vieux Port. This grand U-shaped stone building features tall arched windows framed by local golden-hued stone and masonry. The 172 rooms and 22 suites are posh; 72 rooms have views of the port, while 33 have private terraces.
The history of the hotel goes back as far as the 12th century, when a much earlier hospital was built on the site. Its eventual replacement, the Hôtel-Dieu, took over 100 years to build and was opened by Napoléon III in 1866. It finally closed in 1993.
Casa HonoréB&B€€€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 96 11 01 62; www.casahonore.com; 123 rue Sainte; d €150-200; aWs; mVieux Port)
Los Angeles meets Marseille at this four-room maison d’hôte, built around a central courtyard with a lap pool shaded by banana trees. The fashion-forward style reflects the owner’s love for contemporary interior design, using disparate elements like black wicker and the occasional cow skull, which come together in one sexy package.
CITY PASS
Marseille City PassTOURIST INFORMATION
(24/48/72-hour €24/31/39)
The Marseille City Pass covers admission to city museums, public transport, a guided city tour, a Château d’If boat trip and more, plus other discounts. It’s not necessary for children under 12, as for them many attractions are greatly reduced or free. Buy it online at www.resamarseille.com or at the tourist office.
5Eating
Vieux Port and the surrounding pedestrian streets teem with cafe terraces, but choose carefully. For world cuisine, try cours Julien and nearby rue des Trois Mages. For pizza, roast chickens, and Middle Eastern food under €10, nose around the streets surrounding Marché des Capucins.
oPizzaria Chez ÉtienneREGIONAL CUISINE€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; 43 rue de Lorette; pizza €13-15, mains €15-20; hnoon-2.15pm & 8-11pm Mon-Sat; mColbert)
This old Marseillais haunt has the best pizza in town, as well as succulent pavé de boeuf (beef steak) and scrumptious supions frits (pan-fried squid with garlic and parsley). Since it's a convivial meeting point for the entire neighbourhood, pop in beforehand to reserve a table (there’s no phone). No credit cards.
La Part des AngesBISTRO€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 91 33 55 70; http://lapartdesanges.com; 33 rue Sainte; mains €18-22; h9am-2am Mon-Sat, 9am-1pm & 6pm-2am Sun; mVieux Port)
No address buzzes with Marseille’s hip, buoyant crowd more than this fabulous all-rounder wine bar, named after the alcohol that evaporates through a barrel during wine or whisky fermentation: the angels’ share. Take your pick of dozens of wines by the glass and be sure to tell the bartender if you want to eat (tables can’t be reserved in advance).
Le Comptoir DugommierCAFE€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 91 62 21 21; www.comptoirdugommier.fr; 14 bd Dugommier; h7am-5pm Mon-Sat, occasional evenings; W; mNoailles, jCanebière Garibaldi)
A handy pit stop by the train station, this old-timer cafe with tin moulding, wooden floors and vintage signs makes an atmospheric escape from the busy street outside. The clientele is completely mixed, and there's free wi-fi and classic French fare.
La CasertaneITALIAN, DELI€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 91 54 98 51; 71 rue Francis Davso; mains €10-15; h9am-7.30pm Tue-Sat; mVieux Port)
Lunch on a mind-boggling array of Italian deli meats and salads, or choose from daily specials, often involving homemade pastas, at this delightful deli a couple of blocks from the Vieux Port. Convivial staff and the bustling flow of customers make for lively meals.
Sylvain DepuichaffrayCAFE, BOULANGERIE€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 91 33 09 75; www.sylvaindepuichaffray.fr; 66 rue Grignan; quiche €3, salads €6; h7.30am-4pm Mon, to 7pm Tue-Sat; mVieux Port)
Perfect for a light lunch of quiche or salad followed by a sweet treat.
oLe Café des ÉpicesMODERN FRENCH€€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 91 91 22 69; www.cafedesepices.com; 4 rue du Lacydon; lunch/dinner menus from €25/45; hnoon-3pm & 6-11pm Tue-Fri, noon-3pm Sat; c; mVieux Port)
One of Marseille's best chefs, Arnaud de Grammont, infuses his cooking with a panoply of flavours: squid-ink spaghetti with sesame and perfectly cooked scallops, or coriander- and citrus-spiced potatoes topped by the catch of the day. Presentation is impeccable, the decor playful, and the colourful outdoor terrace between giant potted olive trees nothing short of superb.
oLa CantinettaITALIAN€€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 91 48 10 48; 24 cours Julien; mains €16-20; hnoon-2pm & 7.30-10.30pm Mon-Sat; mNotre Dame du Mont-Cours Julien)
The top table at cours Julien serves perfectly al dente house-made pasta, paper-thin prosciutto, marinated vegetables, bresaola (air-dried beef) and risotto. Tables in the convivial dining room are cheek by jowl, and everyone seems to know each other. Or escape to the sun-dappled, tiled patio garden. If you're lucky, gregarious chef-owner Pierre-Antoine Denis will regale you with the day's specials. Reservations essential.
oCafé PopulaireBISTRO€€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 91 02 53 96; http://cafepopulaire.com; 110 rue Paradis; tapas €6-16, mains €17-22; hnoon-2.30pm & 8-11pm Tue-Sat; mEstrangin-Préfecture)
Vintage furniture, old books on the shelves and a fine collection of glass soda bottles lend a retro air to this trendy, 1950s-styled jazz comptoir (counter) – a restaurant despite its name. The crowd is chic, and smiling chefs in the open kitchen mesmerise with daily specials like king prawns à la plancha (grilled) or beetroot and coriander salad.
La PassarellePROVENçAL€€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 91 33 03 27; www.restaurantlapassarelle.fr; 52 rue Plan Fourmiguier; mains €18-22; hnoon-2.30pm & 8-10.30pm May-Oct, reduced hours rest of year; mVieux Port)
Retro tables and chairs sit on a decking terrace beneath a shady sail, plump in the middle of the leafy-green potager (vegetable garden) where much of the kitchen's produce is grown. Philippe and Patricia’s menu is predominantly organic, with other products strictly local, and cuisine is charmingly simple – the catch of day with vegetables, beef with polenta…
Le Grain de SelMODERN FRENCH€€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 91 54 47 30; 39 rue de la Paix Marcel Paul; 2-/3-course menus €22/26, mains €18-25; hnoon-1.30pm Tue-Thu, noon-1.30pm & 8-9.30pm Fri & Sat; mVieux Port)
The Salt Grain is always packed, generally with gourmet locals who love their food. The menu at the slender bistro is short but reads like a poem with its descriptions of inventive dishes such as cherry gazpacho with yellow tomatoes, pistacho and brousse (a type of cheese) as starter, or apricot clafoutis with almond-milk ice cream and rosemary mousse for dessert.
Le Goût des ChosesBISTRO€€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 91 48 70 62; http://legoutdeschoses.fr; 4 place Notre Dame du Mont; lunch/dinner menus from €16/27; hnoon-1.45pm & 7.30-10pm Wed-Sun)
Think standard French fare with a slight Middle Eastern twist at this convivial bistro just off cours Julien. Book ahead, as locals pack the place for the good-value, delicious cuisine.
MalthazarPROVENçAL€€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 91 33 42 46; 19 rue Fortia; 2-/3-course lunch menus €19/22, dinner menu €32; hnoon-2pm & 8-11pm daily; mVieux Port)
The cuisine is Provençal, seasonal and creative. But what really woos at this trendy club-like address with its very long bar is the patio à ciel – a stunning patio garden with slide-back glass ceiling, a great mix of textures and an attention-grabbing black chandelier strung from one of three hefty wooden beams. Dress sharp.
Les ArcenaulxTRADITIONAL FRENCH€€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 91 59 80 30; www.les-arcenaulx.com; 27 cours Honoré d’Estienne d’Orves; lunch/dinner menus from €25/39, mains €23-30; hnoon-2pm & 8-11pm Mon-Sat; mVieux Port)
Dine in grandiose style in this cavernous former Louis XIV warehouse with antiquarian-and-contemporary bookshop or visit the neighbouring salon de thé (tearoom) for savoury tarts, cakes and ice cream.
Le Môlé PassédatMODERN FRENCH€€€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.passedat.fr; 1 esplanade du J4, MuCEM; La Table lunch/dinner menus from €52/73, La Cuisine 2/3-course menus €22/35; hLa Table 12.30-3pm & 7.30-10.30pm Mon & Wed-Sat, 12.30-3pm Sun, La Cuisine 12.30-3pm Wed-Mon)
Few kitchens are so stunningly located as this. On the top floor of Marseille's iconic museum, MuCEM, Michelin-starred chef Gérald Passédat cooks up exquisite French fare alongside big blue views of the Mediterranean and Marseillais coastline. La Table is the gastronomic restaurant; La Cuisine, with self-service dining around shared tables (no sea view), is the cheaper choice. Reserve both online.
There are also cooking courses (€85 to €135).
DON'T MISS
BOUILLABAISSE
Originally cooked by fishermen from the scraps of their catch, bouillabaisse is Marseille's signature dish. True bouillabaisse includes at least four kinds of fish, and sometimes shellfish. Don't trust tourist traps that promise cheap bouillabaisse; the real deal costs at least €50 per person. It's served in two parts: the broth (soupe de poisson), rich with tomato, saffron and fennel; and the cooked fish, deboned tableside and presented on a platter. On the side are croutons, rouille (a bread-thickened garlic-chilli mayonnaise) and grated cheese, usually gruyère. Spread rouille on the crouton, top with cheese, and float it in the soup. Be prepared for a huge meal and tons of garlic.
oLe RhulSEAFOOD€€€
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 91 52 01 77; www.lerhul.fr; 269 corniche Président John F Kennedy; bouillabaisse €53; hnoon-2pm & 5-9pm; g83)
This long-standing classic has atmosphere (however kitschy): it's a 1940s seaside hotel with Mediterranean views. This is one of the most reliably consistent spots for authentic bouillabaisse, but go the classic one better and get the bourride (minimum two people), a hard-to-find variation brimming with garlic in white sauce.
L'EpuisettePROVENçAL€€€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 91 52 17 82; www.l-epuisette.com; Vallon des Auffes; bouillabaisse €90; hnoon-1.30pm & 7.30-9.30pm Tue-Sat; g83)
This swanky restaurant has a Michelin star and knockout water-level views from an elegantly austere dining room. Sup on some of Marseille's top bouillabaisse, which comes as part of a four-course menu.
Restaurant MichelSEAFOOD€€€
(Chez Michel;
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 91 52 30 63; www.restaurant-michel-13.fr; 6 rue des Catalans; bouillabaisse €65; h6-9.30pm; g83)
This deceptively shabby-looking restaurant opposite Plage des Catalans has been the culinary pride and joy of the Michel family since 1946. Contrary to appearances, it serves some of Marseille's most authentic bouillabaisse and bourride (both €65 per person).
Self-Catering
Pain de l'OpéraBOULANGERIE€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; 61 rue Francis Davso; h7am-8pm; mVieux Port)
Some of the best pastries near the Vieux Port; also has savoury options.
Boulangerie AixoiseBOULANGERIE€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 91 33 93 85; 45 rue Francis Davso; h6.30am-8pm Mon-Sat; mVieux Port)
Lines form out the door and onto the red-chaired terrace in front.
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
THE PERFECT SUNSET
Le Chalet du PharoMEDITERRANEAN€€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 91 52 80 11; www.le-chalet-du-pharo.com; Jardin du Pharo, 58 bd Charles Livon; mains €16-30; hnoon-3pm daily, 7.30-9.30pm Mon-Sat; mVieux Port)
Only Marseillais and those in the know are privy to this little chalet with a very big view, secreted in the Jardin du Pharo. Its hillside terrace, shaded by pines and parasols, stares across the water at Fort St-Jean, MuCEM and the Villa Méditerranée beyond. Grilled fish and meat dominate the menu. Reservations via its website are essential. No credit cards.
Along the Coast
Chez JeannotINTERNATIONAL€€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 91 52 11 28; www.pizzeriachezjeannot.com; 129 rue du Vallon des Auffes; mains €13-22; hnoon-2pm & 7.30-10pm Tue-Sat, noon-2pm Sun; g83)
With a magical setting overlooking the story-book Vallon des Auffes harbour, this affable joint has fresh salads, pasta and shellfish, plus piping-hot pizzas. Fish is so-so.
PéronSEAFOOD€€€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 91 52 15 22; www.restaurant-peron.com; 56 corniche Président John F Kennedy; menus from €69; hnoon-2pm & 8-10.15pm; g83)
This designer place set out over the sea is one of the premier addresses in Marseille for a no-holds-barred gastronomic seafood extravaganza. Stunning views unfold over the Med and on your plate, with highlights including lobster risotto and always fresh fish.
6Drinking & Nightlife
In the best tradition of Mediterranean cities, Marseille embraces the cafe-lounger lifestyle. Near the Vieux Port, head to place Thiars and cours Honoré d’Estienne d’Orves for cafes that bask in the sun by day and buzz into the night. Cours Julien is a fine place on a sunny day to watch people come and go at the many characterful shops, cafes and restaurants in one of Marseille's most interesting neighbourhoods. Up in Le Panier, place de Lenche and rue des Pistoles are ideal places to while away an afternoon while soaking up the area's boho charms.
La CaravelleBAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; 34 quai du Port; h7am-2am; mVieux Port)
Look up or miss this standout upstairs hideaway, styled with rich wood and leather, a zinc bar and yellowing murals. If it's sunny, snag a coveted spot on the portside terrace. On Friday there's live jazz from 9pm to midnight.
Le MontmarteCAFE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 91 56 03 24; 4 pl de Lenche; mains from €6; h9am-11pm; mVieux Port or Joliette)
Place de Lenche is a lovely small square in Le Panier with glimpses of the Vieux Port. Among several cafes here, this one captures the neighbourhood vibe and is a fine place to hang out with a drink on a lazy afternoon.
Bar de la MarineBAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 91 54 95 42; 15 quai de Rive Neuve; h7am-1am; mVieux Port)
Though it is often erroneously thought that Marcel Pagnol filmed the card-party scenes in Marius at this Marseille institution, it did figure in the film Love, Actually. Come for a drink, not the food, and a lounge on this simple bar's waterside pavement along the Vieux Port, and don't leave without peeking at the original vintage interior.
Au Petit NiceCAFE, BAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 91 48 43 04; 28 place Jean Jaurès; h10am-2am Tue-Sat; mNotre Dame du Mont-Cours Julien)
Cheap and cheerful: €2 beers in a happening courtyard cafe with a youthful crowd. (This is not the hotel of the same name.)
Dame NoirBAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; http://ladamenoir.fr; 30 place Notre Dame du Mont; h7pm-2am Wed-Sat; mNotre Dame du Mont-Cours Julien)
Hip cats spill onto the pavement from this bar. No sign; look for the red lights by the door. DJs spin Thursday to Saturday at its dance party, Le Dancing at Trolleybus.
TrolleybusCLUB
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 91 54 30 45; www.letrolley.com; 24 quai de Rive Neuve; hmidnight-6am Thu-Sat; mVieux Port)
Shake it to techno, funk and indie in between games of pétanque (a variant on the game of bowls) at this mythical Marseillais club with four salles (rooms) beneath 17th-century stone vaults at the Vieux Port. The club has been around for aeons but never fails to pull in the crowds.
U.PercutCLUB
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.u-percut.fr; 127 rue Sainte; h7pm-2am Tue-Sat; mVieux Port)
One of the most recent additions to Marseille's cool night scene, U.Percut is popular for its eclectic live music and early-evening tapas.
PolikarpovBAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; 24 cours Honoré d’Estienne d’Orves; h8am-1.30am; mVieux Port)
Scarcely shut, this alfresco bar with buzzing pavement terrace just a couple of blocks from the Vieux Port markets itself as 'Massilia vodkabar'. Yes, vodka is its mainstay, but there's no obligation.
Les BuvardsWINE BAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 91 90 69 98; 34 Grand Rue; hnoon-2.30pm & 6pm-midnight Mon-Sat; mVieux Port, jSadi Carnot)
Marseille's finest selection of natural wines, by small regional producers in the main, is what tempts at this lovely wine bar. Pair your chosen glass with a charcuterie (cold meat) or cheese platter for aperitif perfection.
Au Son des GuitaresCLUB
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; 18 rue Corneille; h11.30pm-4am Thu-Sun; mVieux Port)
Popular with Corsican locals, this small club next to the opera has limited dancing, lots of drinking (though drinks are overpriced) and, occasionally, a Corsican singer. Look sharp to get in.
GAY VENUES
Website http://marseille.actu-gay.eu covers Marseillais gay life – a small scene that is in constant flux and only really converges on weekends, but the city is generally gay friendly.
Caffè NoirGAY BAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; http://cargo-spa.com/caffe-noir; 3 rue Moustier; h2pm-late; mVieux Port)
Caffè Noir, with its severe black facade and black pavement terrace staggering down the street in three steps, more than lives up to its name. Inside and out, a young, mixed, hard-drinking crowd gathers. Has a neighbouring sauna.
L'EndroitGAY BAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 91 33 97 25; 8 rue Bailli de Suffren; h7pm-6am Tue-Sat; mVieux Port)
Dive through the tiny door to the Vieux Port's only gay bar. Theme nights include karaoke.
Le TrashGAY BAR
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 91 25 52 16; www.trash-bar.com; 28 rue du Berceau; h9pm-2am Wed-Mon; mBaille)
Le Trash bills itself as Marseille's cruising bar, for good reason. Occasional cover charge (€10).
3Entertainment
Cultural events are covered in L'Hebdo (€1.20), available around town, or www.marseillebynight.com and www.journalventilo.fr (all in French). Tickets are sold at billetteries (ticket counters) at Espace Culture (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 96 11 04 60; http://espaceculture.net; 42 La Canebière; h10am-6.45pm Mon-Sat; mVieux Port) and the tourist office. Cultural centre La Friche La Belle de Mai hosts theatre, cinema and music.
Espace JulienLIVE MUSIC
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 91 24 34 10; www.espace-julien.com; 39 cours Julien; mNotre Dame du Mont-Cours Julien)
Rock, opérock, alternative theatre, reggae, hip hop, Afro groove and other cutting-edge entertainment all appear on the bill; the website lists gigs.
L'IntermédiaireLIVE MUSIC
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %06 87 87 88 21; www.lintermediaire.fr; 63 place Jean Jaurès; h9pm-2am Wed-Sun; mNotre Dame du Mont-Cours Julien)
This grungy venue with graffitied walls is one of the best for DJs and live bands (usually techno or alternative).
Dock des SudsLIVE MUSIC
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 91 99 00 00; www.dock-des-suds.org; 12 rue Urbain V; hclosed Aug; mNational, jArenc le Silo)
Eclectic live music in a large venue in the La Joliette neighbourhood north of the Vieux Port.
Le Pelle MêleJAZZ
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 91 54 85 26; 8 place aux Huiles; h5.30pm-2am Tue-Sat; mVieux Port)
Jive to jazz or fill the busy pavement terrace. Live bands every evening (except Tuesday) at 7.30pm, but drinks are pricey.
Opéra Municipal de MarseilleOPERA
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 91 55 11 10; http://opera.marseille.fr; 2 rue Molière; mVieux Port)
Season runs September to June.
Théâtre National de MarseilleTHEATRE
(La Criée;
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 91 54 70 54; www.theatre-lacriee.com; 30 quai de Rive Neuve; mVieux Port)
Dance and drama, sometimes in English.
Olympique de MarseilleFOOTBALL
Marseille's cherished football team plays at Nouveau Stade Vélodrome (
GOOGLE MAP
; www.lenouveaustadevelodrome.com; 3 bd Michelet; mRond-Point du Prado). Buy tickets at OM's Boutique Officielle (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 91 33 20 01; 44 La Canebière; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat; mNoailles, jCanebière Garibaldi) for as little as €25.
7Shopping
For chic shopping and large chains, stroll west of the Vieux Port to the 6th arrondissement, especially pedestrianised rue St-Ferréol. Major chains fill Centre Bourse (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.centre-bourse.com; 17 cours Belsunce; h10am-7.30pm Mon-Sat) and line rue de la République.
La Maison du PastisDRINK
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.lamaisondupastis.com; 108 quai du Port; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat; mVieux Port)
Sample over 90 varieties of the region’s speciality, pastis (an aniseed-flavoured aperitif), or try absinthe.
Atelier 1 par 1FASHION
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; 49 rue du Panier; mVieux Port or Joliette)
Creations by a collective of local fashion designers fill this tiny shop, and its neighbour opposite, in Le Panier.
Marché Saint VictorMARKET
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; http://marchesaintvictor.fr; 33 rue d’Endoume; h8am-2pm Tue-Sun, plus 6-8pm Tue & Wed, 6-10.30pm Thu-Sat; mVieux Port)
This modern covered market offers several outfits selling excellent cheeses, rotisserie meats and other fresh goodies. A Spanish deli serves up pintxos (Basque tapas) too.
72% PétanqueBEAUTY
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 91 91 14 57; www.philippechailloux.com; 10 rue du Petit Puits; h10.30am-6.30pm daily; mVieux Port or Joliette)
Brilliantly coloured soaps with scents such as chocolate.
Librairie de la BourseBOOKS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 91 33 63 06; 8 rue Paradis; h9am-12.30pm & 2-5pm Tue-Sat; mVieux Port)
Maps and Lonely Planet guides.
Compagnie de ProvenceBEAUTY
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.compagniedeprovence.com; 18 rue Francis Davso; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat; mVieux Port)
For super-stylish liquid and bar soap, au naturel or scented with olive oil, fig or a wilder Provençal fragrance, hit this iconic savon de Marseille boutique. Funky washbags, travel kits and other accessories also.
AROMATIC MARKETS
- Marché Place Jean Jaurès (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; place Jean Jaurès; h8am-1pm Thu & Sat; mNoailles) Fresh food, clothing, cheap gadgets and more on a large square. On Wednesday it's flowers.
- Marché des Capucins (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; place des Capucins; h8am-7pm Mon-Sat; mNoailles, jCanebière Garibaldi) Fruit, veg, fish and dried goods.
- Marché de la Joliette (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; place de la Joliette; h8am-2pm Mon, Wed & Fri; mJoliette) Food and non-food items. On Monday there are also flowers.
- Fresh Fish Market (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; quai des Belges; h8am-1pm; mVieux Port) Small and touristy fixture at the Vieux Port.
8Information
Emergency
Hôpital de la TimoneHOSPITAL
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 91 38 60 00; 264 rue St-Pierre; mLa Timone)
Located 1km southeast of place Jean Jaurès.
Tourist Information
Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 91 13 89 00; www.marseille-tourisme.com; 11 La Canebière; h9am-7pm Mon-Sat, 10am-5pm Sun; mVieux Port)
Marseille's useful tourist office has plenty of information on everything, including guided tours on foot or by bus, electric tourist train or boat.
Maison de la RégionTOURIST INFORMATION
(
GOOGLE MAP
; www.regionpaca.fr; 61 La Canebière; h11am-6pm Mon-Sat; mNoailles)
Info on Provence and the Côte d'Azur.
8Getting There & Away
For transport information, see www.lepilote.com.
Air
Aéroport Marseille-ProvenceAIRPORT
(MRS;
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 42 14 14 14; www.marseille.aeroport.fr)
Located 25km northwest of Marseille in Marignane; it is also called Aéroport Marseille-Marignane.
Boat
Passenger-Ferry TerminalFERRY
(
GOOGLE MAP
; www.marseille-port.fr; mJoliette)
Located 250m south of place de la Joliette.
SNCMFERRY
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %08 91 70 18 01; www.sncm.fr; 61 bd des Dames; mJoliette)
Regular ferries from Nice and Marseille to Corsica and Sardinia, plus long-distance routes to Algeria and Tunisia.
Bus
Bus StationBUS STATION
(
GOOGLE MAP
; www.lepilote.com; 3 rue Honnorat; mGare St-Charles)
On the northern side of the train station. Buy tickets here or from the driver. Services to some destinations, including Cassis, use the stop on place Castellane (
GOOGLE MAP
; mCastellane), south of the centre.
EurolinesBUS
(
GOOGLE MAP
; www.eurolines.com; 3 allées Léon Gambetta; mNoailles)
International services.
Car
Most major car-rental firms have offices in or close to the train station.
Train
Regular and TGV trains serve Gare St-Charles (
GOOGLE MAP
; hticket office 5.15am-10pm daily; mGare St-Charles SNCF), which is a junction for both metro lines. The left-luggage office is next to platform A.
AAvignon €20.50, 35 minutes
ANice €37, 2½ hours
AParis Gare de Lyon From €60, three hours on TGV
EurostarTRAIN
Services operate one to five times weekly between Marseille and London (from €240, 6½ hours) via Avignon and Lyon.
8Getting Around
To/From the Airport
From the airport’s ‘Vitrolles Aéroport Marseille-Provence’ train station, linked to the airport terminal by a free shuttle, there are direct services to several cities, including Arles and Avignon.
Navette MarseilleBUS
(www.navettemarseilleaeroport.com; adult/child €8.20/4.10; h4.30am-11.30pm)
Links the airport and Gare St-Charles every 15 to 20 minutes.
Boat
Boats run across the Vieux Port, to offshore islands Frioul and If, and to Pointe Rouge. Tours go to the calanques.
Car
Marseille is challenging for drivers. Central car parks include Parking Bourse (rue Reine Elisabeth; h24hr; mVieux Port) and Parking de Gaulle (22 place du Général de Gaulle; h24hr; mVieux Port) off La Canebière. Expect to pay at least €2 per hour, €30 per 24 hours).
Public Transport
Marseille has two metro lines (Métro 1 and Métro 2), two tram lines (yellow and green) and an extensive bus network. Bus, metro or tram tickets (per hour/day €1.60/5.20) are available from machines in the metro, at tram stops and on buses. Most buses start in front of the Espace Infos RTM (
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 91 91 92 10; www.rtm.fr; 6 rue des Fabres; h8.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-noon & 1-4.30pm Sat; mVieux Port), where you can obtain information and tickets.
The metro runs from 5am to 10.30pm Monday to Thursday, and until 12.30am Friday to Sunday. Trams run 5am to 1am daily.
Taxi
Around Marseille
Cradling Marseille’s built-up metro area are spectacular stretches of coast hiding crystalline coves, charming towns and celebrated vineyards.
Les Calanques
Marseille abuts the wild and spectacular Parc National des Calanques (www.calanques-parcnational.fr), a 20km stretch of high, rocky promontories, rising from brilliant-turquoise Mediterranean waters. The sheer cliffs are occasionally interrupted by small idyllic beaches, some impossible to reach without a kayak. The Marseillais cherish the Calanques, and come to soak up sun or take a long hike. The promontories have been protected since 1975 and shelter an extraordinary wealth of flora and fauna: 900 plant species, Bonelli’s eagle, and Europe’s largest lizard (the 60cm eyed lizard) and longest snake (the 2m Montpellier snake).
From October to June the best way to see the Calanques (including the 500 sq km of the rugged inland Massif des Calanques) is to hike the many maquis-lined trails. Marseille's tourist office leads guided walks (no kids under eight) and has information about trail and road closures. It also has an excellent hiking map of the various calanques, as does Cassis' tourist office, and their websites.
In July and August trails close due to fire danger: take a boat tour from Marseille or Cassis, though they don't stop to let you swim. Otherwise, drive or take public transport, though roads are rough, parking scarce and the going slow. The roads into each calanque are often closed to drivers, unless they have a reservation at one of the calanque restaurants. You must instead park at a public lot then walk the rest of the way in.
Sea kayaking from Marseille or Cassis is wondrous. Raskas Kayak (%04 91 73 27 16; www.raskas-kayak.com; Marseille; half/full-day tour €35/65) organises sea-kayaking tours and tourist offices have details of many more guides.
For access to the calanques closest to Marseille, drive or take bus 19 down the coast to its terminus at La Madrague, then switch to bus 20 to Callelongue, a small calanque with restaurants (note that the road to Callelongue is open to cars weekdays only mid-April to May and closed entirely June to September). From there you can walk to Calanque de la Mounine and Calanque de Marseilleveyre along spectacular trails over the clifftops.
Calanque de Sugiton is also easy to access without a car. Take bus 21 from av du Prado, at Castellane, towards Luminy and get off at the last stop. From there follow the path (about a 45-minute walk).
1Sights
Calanque de SormiouINLET
( GOOGLE MAP )
The largest calanque hit headlines in 1991 when diver Henri Cosquer from Cassis swam through a 150m-long passage 36m underwater into a cave to find its interior adorned with wall paintings dating from around 20,000 BC. Now named Grotte Cosquer, the cave is a protected historical monument and closed to the public. Many more are believed to exist.
Take bus 23 from Marseilles' Rond-Point du Prado metro to La Cayolle stop, from where it is a 3km walk.
Two seasonal restaurants with fabulous views serve lunch (and require reservations). Le Château (
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 91 25 08 69; http://lechateausormiou.fr; Calanque de Sormiou; mains €20-25; hnoon-2.30pm & 7.30-9.30pm Apr-Sep) has the best food but does not take credit cards; Le Lunch (
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 91 25 05 37; www.restaurant-lunch.com; Calanque de Sormiou; mains €16-28; hnoon-2.30pm & 8-10pm late Mar–mid-Oct), which also serves dinner, has the better view. Diners with reservations are allowed to drive into the calanque; otherwise, mid-April to May the road's open to cars weekdays only and closed entirely June to September.
Calanque de MorgiouINLET
( GOOGLE MAP )
Windswept Cap Morgiou separates Sormiou from Morgiou, with a pretty little port bobbing with fishing boats, and sheer rock faces from which climbers dangle. An evening spent at its one (seasonal) restaurant, Nautic Bar (
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 91 40 06 37; Calanque de Morgiou; mains €18-27; hnoon-2.30pm & 7.30-9.30pm May-Oct, closed Sun evening & Mon Apr), is dreamy. No credit cards.
Morgiou beach is a one-hour walk from the car park. The hair-raisingly steep, narrow road (3.5km) is open to motorists weekdays only mid-April to May, closed entirely June to September (motorists with a Nautic Bar reservation are always allowed through).
En-Vau, Port-Pin & Port-MiouINLET
East of Calanque de Morgiou, the stone-sculptured coast brings you to three remote calanques: En-Vau, Port-Pin and Port-Miou. Calanque d’En-Vau has a pebbly beach and emerald waters encased by cliffs. Its entrance is guarded by the Doigt de Dieu (God’s Finger), a giant rock pinnacle. A steep three-hour marked trail leads from the car park (closed July to mid-September) on the Col de la Gardiole to En-Vau. The slippery and sheer descents into En-Vau are for the truly hardcore only.
Approaching En-Vau from the east, it is a solid 1½-hour walk on the GR98 from Calanque de Port-Miou, immediately west of Cassis. En route you pass the neighbouring Calanque de Port-Pin, a 30-minute walk from Port-Miou.
Cassis’ tourist office distributes free maps of the walking trails.
Cassis
Pop 7663
Nestled at the foot of a dramatic rocky outcrop crowned by a 14th-century château (now a hotel open only to guests), this little fishing port is all charm, hence the enormous crowds that pile into its Vieux Port with its bustling restaurants, play on its shingle beaches, visit its terraced vineyards and sip fabled white Cassis wine.
The town’s name comes from its Roman title Carsicis Portus, meaning ‘crowned port’, so christened for the rock Couronne de Charlemagne (Crown of Charlemagne), which is visible from far out at sea.
2Activities
The tourist office has information on rock climbing, deep-sea diving, sea kayaking and walking (including a one-hour trail to Port-Pin).
Twelve estates producing the Cassis appellation wines ribbon the hillsides; the tourist office has a list of suggested itineraries and estates you can visit to taste and buy; most require advance reservation. It also offers guided tours (€25 per person) twice per week, on electric bicycles.
Les Bateliers CassidainsCRUISE
(%06 86 55 86 70; www.cassis-calanques.com)
Boats travel to Les Calanques year-round from Quai St-Pierre; buy tickets at the portside kiosk. A 45-minute trip to three calanques (Port-Miou, Port-Pin and En-Vau) costs €16/9.50 per adult/child; a 65-minute trip covering these plus Oule and Devenson is €19/13. No credit cards.
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
TOP VIEWS
Europe’s highest maritime cliff, the hollow limestone Cap Canaille (399m), towers above the southeastern side of the Baie de Cassis (Cassis Bay). From the top, captivating views unfold across Cassis and Mont Puget (564m), the highest peak in the Massif des Calanques.
Offering equally heart-stopping panoramas, the Route des Crêtes (Road of Crests, D141; closed during high winds) wiggles 16km along the clifftops from Cassis to La Ciotat.
4Sleeping
Le Clos des ArômesHOTEL€
(%04 42 01 71 84; www.leclosdesaromes.fr; 10 rue Abbé Paul Mouton; s/d from €49/69; aW)
A short climb uphill from the portside madness, this charming garden hotel is a bit worn, but spotless. Dining at dusk in the courtyard is a peaceful affair. No lift.
Cassis HostelHOSTEL€
(%09 54 37 99 82; www.cassishostel.com; 4 av du Picouveau, Les Heures Claires; dm/d incl breakfast €30/85; Ws)
On the hill above town, this place is simple but has a kitchen, a beautiful terrace and a pool.
Hôtel CassitelHOTEL€€
(%04 42 01 83 44; www.cassitel.com; place Clémenceau; d €99-109; aW)
Smack on the harbourfront section of the village, this simple hotel has that key attribute: a wonderful location. Rooms are simple, but many have harbour views.
5Eating & Drinking
La PoissonnerieSEAFOOD€
(%04 42 01 71 56; 5 quai JJ Barthélemy; menu du pêcheur €20; hlunch Tue-Sun, dinner Tue-Sat Feb-Dec)
Run by two brothers (one fishes, one cooks), this locals' favourite offers everything from a humble plate of sardines with a glass of white wine (€13.90) to grilled fish, or bouillabaisse (€40). No credit cards.
Fleurs de ThymBISTRO€€
(%04 42 01 23 03; www.fleursdethym.com; 5 rue Lamartine; 3-course menu €26; h7.30-10.30pm)
Provençal specialities with an emphasis on seafood. The tiny, quaint dining room spills onto a flower-filled terrace.
La Villa MadieGASTRONOMIC€€€
(%04 96 18 00 00; www.lavillamadie.com; av de Revestel-anse de Corton; winter/summer menus from €75/95, mains €52-72; hnoon-1.15pm & 7-9.15pm Tue-Sun, closed Tue Oct-May)
This two-Michelin-star gastronomic temple beautifully prepares the freshest seafood in inventive, exquisitely presented combinations alongside sparkling sea views. Two accompanying bistros offer scaled-down but equally delicious options.
Le Chai CassidainWINE BAR
(%04 42 01 99 80; www.le-chai-cassidain.com; 7 rue Séverin Icard; h9.30am-1pm & 3-10pm daily, closed Mon Nov-Mar)
Local wines by the glass and often free tastings.
8Information
Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %08 92 39 01 03; www.ot-cassis.com; quai des Moulins; h9am-7pm Mon-Sat, 9.30am-12.30pm & 3-6pm Sun Jul & Aug, shorter hours rest of year; W)
Calanque maps, guided tours of the village and vineyards.
8Getting There & Away
Buses go from Cassis to Marseille (five daily); schedules are at www.lepilote.com. Buses stop at rond-point du Pressoir, a five-minute walk along av du Professeur René Leriche and rue de l’Arène to the port.
Cassis train station (av de la Gare), 3.5km east of the centre, is on the Marseille-Hyères line. Buses 2, 3 and 4 run to the town centre.
If you drive during high season when town parking is scarce, park in the large lot at the entrance of town and take the free navette (shuttle) down to the harbour.
Côte Bleue
The Côte Bleue clambers from Marseille’s western edge, past gritty fishing villages, to Cap Couronne. Marine-life-rich waters around the sandy cape are protected by the Parc Régional Marin de la Côte Bleue.
The Blue Coast has a precious trove of calanques , which compete with the famous ones between Marseille and Cassis. At Calanque de Niolon, 12km west of L’Estaque, rocky spurs ensnare the perilously perched village of Niolon, which has a handful of cafes and the lovely Auberge du Mérou (%04 91 46 98 69; www.aubergedumerou.fr; 3-course menu €27-38; hnoon-2pm & 7.30-10pm Jun-Sep, closed Sun & Mon evening Oct-May), with a sea-view terrace.
From the tiny waterside Port du Redonne, a single-track road climbs over to Les Figuières (1km), the Petit Méjean (1.7km) and the Grand Méjean (1.8km). In Grand Méjean you can pick up a stunning 2.1km-long coastal trail to Calanque de l’Érevine.
Overbuilt L'Estaque (www.estaque.com) once lured artists from the impressionist, Fauvist and cubist movements. A trail follows in the footsteps of Renoir, Cézanne, Dufy and Braque around the port and shabby old town. On the water’s edge buy chichi frégi (sugar-coated doughnuts) and panisses (chickpea-flour cakes) to munch.