Haute-Provence & the Southern Alps

Why Go?

Provence might conjure up images of rolling fields and gentle hills, but west of the Luberon you'll find yourself travelling through altogether more dramatic landscapes. Rising like a tooth-lined jawbone along the border with Italy, just an hour's drive north of Nice, lie the Alps – France's most famous mountain range, a haven for mountaineers, hikers and wildlife-spotters, and home to some of the region's most unforgettable scenery.

Cloaked in snow well into springtime, the mountains of Haute-Provence are divided by six main valleys, connected by some of the highest and most hair-raising road passes anywhere in Europe – an absolute must for road-trippers. At the heart of the area sprawls the huge Parc National du Mercantour, home to a host of rare wildlife, mountain-top villages and pristine natural habitats. Make sure you keep the camera close to hand: there's a picture around every corner.

Driving Distances (km)

Best Places to Eat

A Auberge le Robur

A Restaurant Le 9

A La Ferme Girerd-Potin

A La Bastide de Moustiers

A La Ferme Ste-Cécile

Best Places to Stay

A Moonlight Chalet

A Les Méans

A La Bastide de Moustiers

A Gîte de Chasteuil

A Relais d'Elle

Haute-Provence & Southern Alps Highlights

1 Trace the unforgettable clifftop roads around the Gorges du Verdon.

2 Ride the Train des Pignes through the mountains from Nice to Digne-les-Bains.

3 Hike through the high mountains around St-Martin-Vésubie.

4 Watch semi-wild wolves at the Alpha wildlife reserve.

5 Conquer Europe's highest road pass, the Col de Restefond la Bonette.

6 Motor through the scarlet canyons of the Gorges de Daluis.

7 Get lost among the lavender fields around Manosque.

8 Admire the work of ancient rock artists in the Vallée des Merveilles.

9 Meditate over 12th-century mosaics at Monastère Notre Dame de Ganagobie.

Pays de Forcalquier

Beyond mass tourism’s radar, Pays de Forcalquier's expansive landscapes comprise wildflower-tinged countryside and isolated hilltop villages. It's the portal to Haute-Provence from the Luberon, and the fastest way in from Marseille too. At its heart lies namesake Forcalquier, famous for its market and absinthe. Saffron grows here.

Forcalquier & Around

The area's only sizeable town, Forcalquier (population 5000) has an upbeat, slightly bohemian vibe – a hangover from the 1960s and '70s, when artists and back-to-the-landers arrived and fostered a now-booming organics (biologiques) movement. You'll see the town long before you reach it thanks to the gold-topped 'citadel' that crowns the nearby hilltop.

The town's at its liveliest on Monday morning for the weekly market, one of the area's best.

1Sights & Activities

Old TownAREA

To reach the citadel and its little octagonal chapel, it's a 20-minute walk uphill via shady backstreets and winding steps. At the top there's a viewing platform offering panoramic views. On the way back down, keep an eye out for some of the town's impressive wooden doorways, dating from the days when Forcalquier was the pre-Revolutionary seat of power for the Comtes de Provence.

oPrieuré de SalagonMONASTERY, GARDENS

(%04 92 75 70 50; www.musee-de-salagon.com; adult/child/family €7/5/20; h10am-8pm Jun-Aug, to 7pm May & Sep, to 6pm Oct–mid-Dec & Feb-Apr; c)

Situated 4km south of Forcalquier near Mane, this peaceful priory dates from the 13th century. It's worth a visit to wander around its medieval herb gardens, fragrant with native lavender, mint and mugwort, and a show garden of world plants.

Ecomusée l’OlivierMUSEUM

(%04 92 72 66 91; www.ecomusee-olivier.com; adult/child €4/free; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 1.30-6pm Sat; v)S

If all the olive groves around Forcalquier have inspired curiosity, head 15km southeast to Volx, where this intriguing eco-museum allows you to learn all about the extraction process and the olive tree's importance to Mediterranean culture. There's also a posh shop where you can pick up souvenirs, and taste various olive-oil varieties, as well as an excellent Provençal restaurant, Les Petites Tables (%04 86 68 53 14; lespetitestables@gmail.com; lunch mains €10-16; hnoon-3pm Tue-Sat), that's perfect for lunch.

It has sister shops in Gordes, Roussillon, Aix-en-Provence and several other towns.

4Sleeping

oRelais d'ElleB&B€

(%04 92 75 06 87, mobile 06 75 42 33 72; http://relaisdelle.com; rte de la Brillane, Niozelles; s/d/tr/q from €56/70/88/110; Wsc)

What a stunner of a B&B this is, 8km from Forcalquer in a delightful ivy-covered farmhouse dating from 1802, surrounded by tended gardens, bucolic countryside and a grand pool. The sweet, feminine rooms all have views – we liked Collines for its cosiness and Pierres for its atmosphere. The owners are passionate about horses, and also offer a delicious dinner by reservation.

Grand HotelHOTEL€

(%04 92 75 00 35; www.grandhotel-forcalquier.com; 10 blvd Latourette, Forcalquier; s/d/tr/f €48/59/67/99; W)

If you want to be in town for the market, this hotel is smack bang in the middle of things, a minute downhill from the main square. It's a simple, old-fashioned place – a touch musty, but spruce and friendly. The nicest rooms are at the back; the ones at the front get some road noise. Half-board is available.

Bergerie de BeaudineB&B€

(%04 92 75 01 52; www.gite-labeaudine.com; rte de Limans, Forcalquier; s/d €56/66; Ws)

This genial B&B is colourfully decorated in floral style and has a big yard with pool, outdoor summer kitchen and barbecue. It's 2km from town via the D950 towards Banon. Limited wi-fi. Cash only.

Couvent des MinimesHOTEL€€€

(%04 92 74 77 77; www.couventdesminimes-hotelspa.com; Chemin des Jeux de Maï, Mane; r from €235; aWs)

A real budget-buster, but boutique in every sense of the word. Housed in a converted convent, it pulls out all the luxury stops: beautiful rooms, an indulgent spa and a superb restaurant, all wrapped up in wonderful medieval architecture. Low-season and last-minute deals often bring prices down a notch.

5Eating

There are several brasseries around Forcalquier's main square, place du Bourguet.

L'Entre d'EuxCAFE€

(23 bd des Martyrs, Forcalquier; dishes €5-10; h8:30am-6pm Mon-Sat, to 3pm Wed; v)S

Small cafe near the main square that serves mixed plates of cheese, charcuterie and other nibbles.

Le BaratinBISTRO€€

(%04 92 77 14 84; 22 blvd Latourette, Forcalquier; mains €10-14; hlunch noon-3pm)

A popular lunch spot, good for speedy classics like salade de chèvre (melted goat's-cheese salad), steak with shallots and burgers served with rough-cut chips.

Restaurant Le 9PROVENçAL€€

(%04 92 75 03 29; www.le9-forcalquier.fr; av Jean Giono, Forcalquier; menus €17-28; hlunch noon-2.30pm, dinner 7.30-10pm Wed-Mon)

High in Forcalquier, behind the Citadel with a panoramic terrace, Le 9 (pronounced luh-nuf) is the town's most reliable address for earthy, market-driven cooking, incorporating fresh-from-the-farm ingredients in simple bistro fare, like honey-braised rabbit or grilled lamb with tomato and basil. The best idea is usually just to go for whatever's on the blackboard. Reservations recommended.

Café de NiozellesPROVENçAL, ITALIAN€€

(%04 92 73 10 17; http://bistrot.niozelles.net; place du Village, Niozelles; set menu €26; hlunch 12.30-2.30pm, dinner 7-9pm, closed Thu; a)

For just-like-maman-made-it French cuisine, it's worth the 5km drive to this unashamedly old-fashioned bistro in Niozelles. You'll need an appetite, and a taste for all the traditional trimmings, like offal, tripe and sheep trotters – but you won't find a more authentic French meal in the Pays de Forcalquier.

7Shopping

Distilleries et Domaines de ProvenceDRINK

(%04 92 75 15 41; www.distilleries-provence.com; 9 av St-Promasse, Forcalquier; h10am-12:30pm & 2-6pm Mon & Wed-Sat Apr-Dec)

In business since 1898, this friendly distillery makes its own pastis and absinthe. Look for the sign marked 'Espace Dégustation' and the antique still outside.

8Information

Forcalquier Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

(%04 92 75 10 02; www.forcalquier.com; 13 place du Bourguet; h9am-noon & 2-6pm Mon-Sat)

Info on walks, bike routes, hot-air ballooning and other activities in the Forcalquier area. Useful iPhone app: 'visit 04'.

8Getting There & Around

LER (Lignes Express Régionales; %08 21 20 22 03; www.info-ler.fr) buses connect Forcalquier, Mane and St-Michel l'Observatoire with Apt, Avignon, Digne-les-Bains, Sisteron, Manosque, Aix-en-Provence and Marseille. The tourist office has complete info.

Bachelas Cycles rents mountain, road, tandem and electric bicycles (€19 to €26 per day).

St-Michel l'Observatoire

Driving through the scrubby back roads around St-Michel l'Observatoire, an unexpected sight appears on the hills ahead: a futuristic dome-shaped observatory, built in 1937 to take advantage of Haute-Provence's wonderfully clear night skies. The village is beautiful in its own right, but it buzzes in summer with amateur astronomers.

1Sights & Activities

Observatoire de Haute-ProvenceOBSERVATORY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 92 70 64 00; www.obs-hp.fr; adult/child €4.50/2.50; hguided visits 2-5pm Tue-Thu Jul & Aug, 2.15-4pm Wed Sep-Jun)

Tours of St-Michel's observatory include the chance to see its working 193cm central telescope, plus a film about the centre's research. Buy tickets for the 30-minute guided tour from the ticket office in St-Michel’s village square; in July and August there's a free shuttle. The observatory is at the end of the D305, 2km north of St-Michel l’Observatoire. Call ahead in the low season.

Centre d’AstronomieOBSERVATORY

(%04 92 76 69 69; www.centre-astro.fr; Plateau du Moulin à Vent; adult/6-16yr €7.15/5.10; hby reservation only)

It's also possible to visit the nearby astronomy centre by arrangement, where you'll have the chance to make both solar and stellar observations – but you'll need good French to make the most of it.

Simiane la Rotonde

Pop 602 / Elev 630m

Jutting out along the rocky skyline on top of a 630m hilltop, this heart-stoppingly pretty village is celebrated for its unmistakeable landmark: the Rotonde (www.simiane-la-rotonde.fr; adult/12-18yr/under 12yr €4.50/2.50/free; h10.30am-1pm & 2-7pm May-Aug, 1.30-6pm Wed-Sun Mar, Apr & Sep–mid-Nov) after which the town is named.

Forming part of the 12th-century fortified castle built by the Simiane-Agoult family, who were one of the region's most powerful medieval dynasties, it's particularly notable for its magnificent central cupola, graced by a soaring dome, 12 supporting ribs and a forest of decorative columns and intricate stonework. It's a true masterpiece of medieval engineering, and every year provides the unforgettable setting for classical-music festival Les Riches Heures Musicales de la Rotonde.

BISTROT DE PAYS

To help attract diners to the more rural towns and villages of Haute-Provence, Bistrot de Pays (www.bistrotdepays.com) is an organisation that champions small restaurants known for serving traditional Provençal cuisine and their commitment to using local produce. Many also host live music and community events. The idea is so successful that the rest of France is adopting it. There are dozens of participating venues scattered around the countryside: you can pick up a free booklet at tourist offices, or consult listings on the website.

Banon

Pop 940 / Elev 760m

The little village of Banon is famous for its eponymous cheese, chèvre de Banon – made from goat's milk, wrapped in a chestnut leaf and tied with raffia string. It's a prized local delicacy, eaten both fresh and cooked. You'll see it for sale at many local markets, including Banon's own on Tuesday morning. The town also hosts its own cheese festival in May.

At other times, you can pick it up at the wonderful cheese-and-sausage shop, La Brindille Melchio (%04 92 73 23 05; place de la République; h8am-12.30pm & 2.30-6.30pm Wed-Sun Sep-Jun, 8am-7pm daily Jul & Aug). The tourist office also keeps a list of local farms you can visit, including the Fromagerie de Banon (%04 92 73 25 03; www.fromagerie-banon.fr; rte Carniol; h2.30-5.30pm Mon-Fri Apr-Oct), a couple of kilometres south of town on the D201.

Vallée de la Durance

Halfway between the Luberon and the high Alps lies the broad, flat floodplain of the River Durance. Centuries ago, this natural pass was crossed by the Via Domitia, the main road that enabled Roman legionnaries and traders to travel through the south of Gaul. It's now crossed by a more modern equivalent: the A8 motorway.

The area is also famous for its lavender fields, especially around Manosque and the nearby Plateau de Valensole. Many growers offer guided visits and sell products direct: ask in any local tourist office for one of the free Routes de la Lavande leaflets.

WORTH A TRIP

ROUTE DU TEMPS

The Route du Temps (Road of Time) is a signed route that winds through some of the area's most dramatic valleys, historical sites and rock formations; it starts just north of Sisteron and follows the D3 to St-Geniez, up and over Col de Font-Belle (1304m) to the medieval fortified village of Thoard.

Interpretive panels along the way explain what you're seeing, and if you fancy a closer look, various trails criss-cross their way into the surrounding hills. It's also worth stopping in Thoard for a visit to the Distillerie du Siron (%04 92 34 61 96, 06 25 12 67 17; www.distilleriesiron-lavande.fr; Thoard; htours by reservation 10am-noon & 2-6pm daily Jul & Aug, by appointment rest of year), a small-scale organic lavender factory run by local maker Marc Malagutti.

In total, it's a journey of around two to three hours, depending on how many stops you make. For further information and a route map (€2), contact the Sisteron tourist office.

1Sights

Les MéesARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE

Travelling north from Forcalquier towards Sisteron, you can't miss the mysterious Rochers des Mées: rows and rows of rocky pinnacles, some as much as 100m high. Legend claims they were once monks, turned to stone for lusting after Saracen women. A loop trail travels through the formations, taking around 3½ hours from end to end.

Monastère Notre Dame de GanagobieMONASTERY

(www.ndganagobie.com; Ganagobie; h3-5pm Tue-Sun, shop 10.30am-noon & 2.30-6pm Tue-Sun)F

Ganagobie's otherworldly monastery is an essential stop. Founded in the 10th century, it's still home to a working Benedictine community, who produce products including soaps, honey, jam and beer, all for sale in the monastery shop. The chapel (worth a visit for its fabulous 12th-century floor mosaics) is the only area open to the public, but you're free to wander round most of the grounds.

It's located at the end of a winding 4km lane; look out for signs on the D4096 as you travel between Forcalquier and Sisteron. Note that the monastery is closed during times of monastic retreat.

Citadelle de SisteronFORT

(www.citadelledesisteron.fr; admission €6.40; h9am-6pm Apr-Oct, to 7pm Jul & Aug)

For the finest views of the valley, make a beeline for Sisteron's hilltop citadel, perched on a flank of rock high above the town. Built in stages between the 13th and 16th centuries, it was badly damaged by bombardment in August 1944 but has since been meticulously restored.

4Sleeping & Eating

Mas Saint-JosephB&B€

(%04 92 62 47 54; www.lemassaintjoseph.com; Châteauneuf-Val-St-Donat; s/d/tr/q €60/69/88/107; hApr-Oct; s)

This converted farmhouse sits atop a wooded hillside 10km northwest of Peyruis. Wood beams and stone walls make the whitewashed rooms feel extra special. There's a hot tub and shared kitchen facilities. The table d'hôte (hosts' dinner) is copious and includes wine; it's a bargain at €17 or €23, depending on the menu you choose.

La MagnanerieGASTRONOMIC€€

(%04 92 62 60 11; www.la-magnanerie.net; N85, Aubignosc; menus lunch €22-29, dinner €32-55, r €78-98; hlunch 12.15-1.30pm, dinner 7.15-9.30pm Tue-Sun; iW)

A stylish, if starchy, restaurant-hotel on the road 10km south of Sisteron. Chef Stéphan Paroche is known for his colourful, creative cooking – edible flowers and microherbs adorn his exquisite plates of fine French food. Upstairs rooms are equally playful: some have comic-book murals, others are styled after classic cinematic scenes. Reservations essential.

MARKET DAYS

Markets generally run 8am to noon.

Monday Forcalquier.
Tuesday Breil-sur-Roya, Colmars-les-Alpes.
Wednesday Barcelonnette, Castellane, Digne-les-Bains, La Foux d’Allos, La Palud-sur-Verdon, Riez, Sisteron, St-André-les-Alpes, Tende.
Thursday Allemagne-en-Provence, Allos, Les Salles-sur-Verdon, Montagnac, Sospel.
Friday Colmars-les-Alpes, Entrevaux, Moustiers Ste-Marie, Quinson, Seyne-les-Alpes.
Saturday Barcelonnette, Castellane, Digne-les-Bains, Riez, Sisteron, St-André-les-Alpes.
Sunday Bauduen (summer), Castellane, La-Palud-sur-Verdon (summer).
Daily St-Martin-Vésubie.

Gorges du Verdon

For sheer, jaw-dropping drama, there are few sights in France that can match the epic Gorges du Verdon. The Grand Canyon of Europe slices a 25km swath through Haute-Provence’s limestone plateau all the way to the foothills of the Alps. Etched out over millions of years by the Verdon River, the gorges have formed the centrepiece of the Parc Naturel Régional du Verdon since 1997. With their sheer, plunging cliffs – in some places 700m high, twice the height of the Eiffel Tower – the gorges are a haven for birds, including a colony of reintroduced vautours fauves (griffon vultures).

From the top of the cliffs, the Verdon River itself seems little more than a silver trickle, but down at gorge level it takes on a different character: it's one of France's best spots for white-water rafting. The canyon floors are only accessible by foot or raft, and it's worth experiencing the gorges from both bottom and top to get a proper sense of their brain-boggling size.

The main gorge begins at Rougon, near the confluence of the Verdon and Jabron Rivers. The most useful jumping-off points are Moustiers Ste-Marie, in the west, and Castellane, in the east.

2Activities

Cycling & Driving

A complete circuit of the Gorges du Verdon from Moustiers Ste-Marie involves 140km of driving, not to mention a relentless series of hairpin turns. There's a cliffside road on either side of the gorges, but passing spots are rare, roads are narrow and rockfalls are possible – so take it slow and enjoy the scenery.

Spring and autumn are ideal times to visit: the roads can be traffic clogged in summer and icy in winter – note that the Route des Crêtes (D952 & D23) is snowbound (closed) from mid-November to mid-March.

The only village en route is La Palud-sur-Verdon (930m), so make sure you've got a full tank of gas before setting out.

Walking & Hiking

Dozens of blazed trails traverse the wild countryside around Castellane and Moustiers. Tourist offices carry the excellent, English-language Canyon du Verdon (€4.70), detailing 28 walks, as well as maps of five principal walks (€2.40).

Note that wild camping anywhere in the gorges is illegal. Don't cross the river, except at bridges, and always stay on marked trails, lest you get trapped when the upstream dam opens, which happens twice weekly. Check water levels and the weather forecast with local tourist offices before embarking.

Outdoor Sports

Castellane is the main water-sports base (April to September, by reservation); its tourist office has lists of lots of local operators. Most charge roughly similar rates: around €35 for two hours, €55 for a half-day and €75 for a full day. Safety kit is provided, but you'll get (very) wet, so dress appropriately.

Lac de Castillon's beaches are popular for swimming and paddle boating, while St-André-les-Alpes, on the lakeshore, is France’s leading paragliding centre.

Des Guides pour l'AventureOUTDOORS

(%06 85 94 46 61; www.guidesaventure.com; Moustiers Ste-Marie)

Offers activities including canyoning (€45 per half-day), rock climbing (€40 for three hours), rafting (€45 for 2½ hours) and ‘floating’ (€50 for three hours) – which is like rafting, except you have a buoyancy aid instead of a boat.

Aboard RaftingWATER SPORTS

(%04 92 83 76 11; www.aboard-rafting.com; 8 place de l'Église, Castellane)

White-water rafting, cano-raft, air-boat and canyoning trips. Most activities start at €35 for two hours.

Latitude ChallengeADVENTURE SPORTS

(%04 91 09 04 10; www.latitude-challenge.fr; jumps €115)

Bungee jumps from Europe’s highest bungee site, the 182m Pont de l’Artuby (Artuby Bridge). Also skydiving.

AéroglissPARAGLIDING

(%04 92 89 11 30; www.aerogliss.com; chemin des Iscles, St-André-les-Alpes; intro flights from €75)

Offers 'baptism' flights for novice paragliders, as well as catering to more experienced fliers.

Wildlife Watching

Sortie de Découverte des Vautours du VerdonWILDLIFE WATCHING

(%04 92 83 61 14; adult/child €10/6; h9.30am & 6pm Tue, Wed & Fri mid-Jun–mid-Sep)

Guided tours to watch vultures in the Gorges du Verdon. Book through the tourist office in Castellane.

`2`Driving Tour
Gorge Explorer

Start Moustiers Ste-Marie

End Moustiers Ste-Marie

Length 140km; four to five hours

If you're here in summer, be sure to get an early start. The narrow, winding roads through the gorge slow to a crawl during high-season afternoons, especially on weekends.

Set out from 1Moustiers Ste-Marie, via the rte de Castellane (D952). Aim for the 2Route des Crêtes, a 23km-long loop with 14 lookouts along the northern rim with drop-dead vistas of the plunging river gorge. (Note that there are two turn-offs for the Route des Crêtes. To make the entire loop, take the second turn-off, after the hamlet of La Palud-sur-Verdon. If you're tight on time, or if traffic is terrible, take the first turn-off, see a few overlooks, then turn back toward Moustiers. But pay close attention, as the road soon becomes one way in the wrong direction. En route, the most thrilling view is from 3Belvédère de l’Escalès – one of the best places to spot vultures overhead.

After rejoining the D952, the road corkscrews east, past 4Point Sublime, which offers a wide view of serrated rock formations falling away to the river. At Point Sublime, from the D952, the narrow D317 scales 3km north to mountain hamlet 5Rougon. Without stops or traffic, that's about two hours' driving. You could rest in Chasteuil, at cosy 6Gîte de Chasteuil, or forge onward. If considering a river expedition – or if you're just passing through on your way to the Côte d'Azur – aim for 7Castellane. Otherwise, return toward Moustiers Ste-Marie (in two hours) along a different, heart-palpitating route, 8La Corniche Sublime (D955 to D90, D71 and D19). It twists along the southern rim, taking in spectacular landmarks including the 9Balcons de la Mescla (Mescla Terraces) and aPont de l’Artuby (Artuby Bridge), Europe's highest bridge. On the return to Moustiers Ste-Marie, you'll pass the emerald-green waters of the bLac de Ste-Croix.

8Information

Castellane Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

(%04 92 83 61 14; www.castellane.org; rue Nationale; h9am-7.30pm Jul & Aug, shorter hours rest of year)

Best source for info on river trips and the eastern side of the Gorges du Verdon.

Moustiers Ste-Marie Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 92 74 67 84; www.moustiers.eu; h9.30am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-12.30pm & 2-7pm Sat & Sun Jul & Aug, shorter hours rest of year; W)

Excellent service, general info on the Gorges du Verdon and free wi-fi.

8Getting Around

Bus

Public transport in the gorges is limited, but there's a useful shuttle-bus service (%04 92 34 22 90; autocars.delaye@orange.fr; htwice daily Jul & Aug, only runs on weekends Apr-Jun & Sep) linking Castellane with Point Sublime, La Palud and La Maline (but not Moustiers).

There's also a daily LER (%08 21 20 22 03; www.info-ler.fr) bus from Marseille to Riez (€16.90), Moustiers (€18.30) and Castellane (€25.80). The single fare from Moustiers to Castellane is €7.10.

Train

The Train des Pignes travels north of the gorges: the nearest stops are at St-André-les-Alpes, 21km north of Castellane, and Barrême, 25km northwest.

Lacs de Ste-Croix & de Quinson

The largest of the lakes in Parc National Régional du Verdon, Lac de Ste-Croix (southwest of Moustiers Ste-Marie) is a reservoir formed in 1974. It has scads of watercraft – windsurfers, canoes, kayaks – to rent, and pretty Bauduen sits on its southeastern banks.

Lac de Quinson lies at the southernmost foot of the lower Gorges du Verdon. In the village of Quinson, taxidermy-rich Musée de la Préhistoire des Gorges du Verdon (%04 92 74 09 59; www.museeprehistoire.com; rte de Montmeyan; adult/student/family €7/5/20; h10am-8pm Jul & Aug, 10am-6pm Wed-Mon low season, closed mid-Dec–end Jan; c) explores the gorges’ natural history and archaeological treasures. From March to October, it organises monthly expeditions to the Grotte de la Baume Bonne, a prehistoric cave.

Nearby Allemagne-en-Provence is named for Roman goddess of fertility Alemona. Her likeness appears on the village’s focal point, the turret-topped 12th- to 16th-century Château d’Allemagne (%04 92 77 46 78; www.chateau-allemagne-en-provence.com; guided tours adult/child €7/free; htours 4pm & 5pm Tue-Sun Jul–mid-Sep, Sat & Sun only Easter-Jun & mid-Sep–Oct) – straight from a fairy tale.

Moustiers Ste-Marie & Around

Pop 710 / Elev 634m

Dubbed 'Étoile de Provence' (Star of Provence), jewel-box Moustiers Ste-Marie crowns towering limestone cliffs, which mark the beginning of the Alps and the end of Haute-Provence’s rolling prairies. A 227m-long chain, bearing a shining gold star, is stretched high above the village – a tradition, legend has it, begun by the Knight of Blacas, who was grateful to have returned safely from the Crusades. Twice a century, the weathered chain snaps, and the star gets replaced, as happened in 1996. In summer, it's clear that Moustiers’ charms are no secret.

1Sights & Activities

Chapelle Notre Dame de BeauvoirCHURCH

(guided tours adult/child €3/free; h24hr)F

Lording over the village, beneath Moustiers' star, this 14th-century church clings to a cliff ledge like an eagle's nest. A steep trail climbs beside a waterfall to the chapel, passing 14 stations of the cross en route. On 8 September, Mass at 5am celebrates the nativity of the Virgin Mary, followed by flutes, drums and breakfast on the square.

Musée de la FaïenceMUSEUM

(%04 92 74 61 64; rue Seigneur de la Clue; adult/student/under 16yr €3/2/free; h10am-12.30pm Jul & Aug, to 5pm or 6pm rest of year, closed Tue year-round)

Moustiers’ decorative faïence (glazed earthenware) once graced the dining tables of Europe’s most aristocratic houses. Today, each of Moustiers' 15 ateliers has its own style, from representational to abstract. Antique masterpieces are housed in this little museum, adjacent to the town hall. Village galleries sell new pieces; working ateliers are down the hill; ask the tourist office to direct you to the best.

4Sleeping

oGîte du Petit SégrièsFARMSTAY€

(%04 92 74 68 83; www.chambre-hote-verdon.com; d incl breakfast €69-79; Wc)

Friendly hosts Sylvie and Noël offer five colourful, airy rooms in their rambling farmhouse, 5km west of Moustiers on the D952 to Riez. Family-style tables d’hôte (€21 with wine) are served at a massive chestnut table, or outside beneath a foliage-covered pergoda in summer. Noël is a mountain-bike guide and runs excellent tours (from €65).

Clos des IrisHOTEL€

(%04 92 74 63 46; www.closdesiris.fr; chemin de Quinson; d €74-80, f €108-135; hclosed Oct-Dec; W)

A sweet, simple family hotel, shaded by shutters and pergolas, and surrounded by lovely leafy gardens. There are nine bedrooms, and the owners also run a self-catering cottage down the road.

Domaine du Petit LacCAMPGROUND€

(%04 92 74 67 11; www.lepetitlac.com; rte des Salles en Verdon; camping per 2 people €15.30-22.90; hmid-Apr–mid-Oct; iWsc)

Large, activity-oriented campsite on the shores of Lac Ste-Croix; also has wooden chalets and mobile homes.

oLa Ferme RoseHOTEL€€

(%04 92 75 75 75; www.lafermerose.com; chemin de Quinson; d €85-157; aW)

This Italianate terracotta-coloured farmhouse, signposted off the D952 to Ste-Croix de Verdon, is as eclectic and charming as it gets in Provence. Its interior is crammed with quirky collectibles – including a Wurlitzer jukebox, a display case of coffee grinders, and vintage steam irons on the turquoise-tiled staircase. Colourful, airy and uncluttered rooms look out onto unending flowery gardens. Breakfast €11.

5Eating

Most of Moustiers' restaurants shut up shop in winter.

ClérissyCRêPERIE€

(%06 33 34 06 95; www.clerissy.fr; place du Chevalier-de-Blacas; dishes €8-12; hlunch noon-3pm Fri-Tue, dinner 7-10pm Thu-Tue)

A good lunch spot in the village, with crispy pizzas, filling crêpes and generous salads.

oLa GrignotièrePROVENçAL€

(%04 92 74 69 12; rte de Ste-Anne; mains €6-15; h11.30am-10pm May-Sep, to 6pm Feb–mid-May)

Hidden away behind the soft pink facade of Moustier's Musée de la Faïence is this utterly gorgeous, blissfully peaceful garden restaurant. Tables sit between olive trees and the colourful, eye-catching decor – including the handmade glassware – is the handiwork of talented, dynamic owner Sandrine. Cuisine is 'picnic chic', meaning lots of creative olive-oil-doused salads, tapenades, quiches and so on.

La Treille MuscatePROVENçAL€€

(%04 92 74 64 31; www.la-treille-muscate.com; place de l'Église; lunch/dinner menus from €22/31; hlunch noon-2pm Fri-Wed, dinner 7.30-10.30pm Fri-Tue)

The top place to eat in the village proper: classic Provençal cooking served with panache, either in the stone-walled dining room or the valley-view terrace. Reservations recommended.

La Ferme Ste-CécileGASTRONOMIC€€

(%04 92 74 64 18; D952; menus €29-38; hlunch noon-2pm Tue-Sun, dinner 7.30-10pm Tue-Sat)

Just outside Moustiers, this wonderful ferme auberge (country inn) immerses you in the full Provençal dining experience, from the sun-splashed terrace and locally picked wines right through to the chef's meticulous Mediterranean cuisine. It's about 1.2km from Moustiers; look out for the signs as you drive towards Castellane.

La Bastide de MoustiersGASTRONOMIC€€€

(%04 92 70 47 47; www.bastide-moustiers.com; chemin de Quinson; menus €38-79, d from €260; hlunch noon-2pm & 7.30-9.30pm daily May-Sep, closed Tue & Wed Oct-Apr; as)

This splurge-worthy Provençal nest, domain of legendary chef Alain Ducasse, is famous for fine cuisine – hence the helicopter pad in the garden – and provides the chance to dress for dinner, as well as swish bedrooms if you want the full flashy-hotel experience. It's 500m down a country lane, signposted off the D952 to Ste-Croix de Verdon.

Castellane & Around

Pop 1539 / Elev 723m

At the opposite end of the gorges, Castellane is a more run-of-the-mill town, teeming with visitors in summer and all but deserted out of season. Its main feature is the amazing Chapelle Notre Dame du Roc, perched high above the town on a 184m-high rock pillar. On 15 August (Assumption Day) pilgrims ascend by torchlight for Mass.

1Sights

Musée Sirènes et FossilesMUSEUM

(%04 92 83 19 23; place Marcel Sauvaire; adult/child €4/3; h10am-1pm & 3pm-6.30pm daily Apr, Jul & Aug, Wed, Sat & Sun only May, Jun & Sep, closed Oct-Mar; c)

Mermaids and fossils feature at this worthwhile paleontology museum; admission includes access to a nearby 90-minute, 2km family-friendly walk, the Sentier des Siréniens (Col des Lèques), passing beside 40-million-year-old fossilised rock.

Musée de la RésistanceMUSEUM

(%04 92 83 78 25; www.resistancecastellane.free.fr; rte de Digne; adult/child €4/2; hby appointment Apr-Oct)

Haute-Provence was a hotbed of the Resistance during WWII, and this small museum, 1.5km along the road to Digne, is dedicated to local heroes of the Maquis. Call ahead to arrange a visit.

4Sleeping & Eating

Mas du VerdonB&B€

(%04 92 83 73 20; www.masduverdon.com; Quartier d'Angles; r €55-72, tables d'hôte €22; hApr-Oct)

A peaceful farmhouse retreat, hidden away 1km south of town on the Verdon's banks. It's lodged inside an attractive 18th-century farmhouse, and offers four rooms named after herbs and flowers, as well as a self-catering apartment. Table d'hôte dinners are available by reservation from May to September.

Gîte de ChasteuilB&B€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 92 83 72 45; www.gitedechasteuil.com; Hameau de Chasteuil; incl breakfast d €84-89, tr €102; hMar-Nov)

Some 12km west of Castellane, this excellent-value chambre d’hôte resides in a former schoolhouse with gorgeous mountain views and is an ideal stop for hikers along the GR4. Excellent table d'hôte (€20/24 with/without advance reservation).

Nouvel Hôtel Restaurant du CommerceHOTEL€€

(%04 92 83 61 00; www.hotel-du-commerce-verdon.com; place Marcel Sauvaire; d €80-105, tr €100-130, f €110-185; hApr-Oct; Ws)

By far the best of the hotels on Castellane's main square, with rooms decorated in 'traditional' and 'cosy' styles. Both are smart, with wooden floors and cool colour schemes, although none are hugely spacious. The Provençal restaurant (mains €14 to €22) is excellent; the best tables are in the shady garden.

Auberge du TeillonPROVENçAL, GASTRONOMIC€€

(%04 92 83 60 88; www.auberge-teillon.com; D4805 (rte Napoléon), La Garde; d €65-80, menus €29-56)

Situated 5km east of Castellane on the road to Grasse, this much-loved roadside hotel has a handful of simple rooms up top, but it's the restaurant that's the main draw. Cuisine is 'Provençal classic': the Sunday lunch is a feast to be remembered.

WORTH A TRIP

RéSERVE GéOLOGIQUE DE HAUTE-PROVENCE

It's somewhat hard to believe now, but back in the dim and distant past, the Alps actually sat at the bottom of a vast temperate sea. Today, this secret past is etched right into the living rock. Footprints of prehistoric birds, outsized ammonites and ram’s-horn spiral shells are among the amazing fossils to be found in the 1900-sq-km Réserve Géologique de Haute-Provence. You’ll need a detailed regional map (sold at tourist offices) and your own transport to reach the 18 sites, most of which lie around Barles (north) and Barrême (south). An impressive limestone slab with some 500 ammonites sits 3km north of Digne on the road to Barles.

Another must-see detour is the Musée Promenade (%04 92 36 70 70; musee-promenade@hotmail.com; 10 montée Bernard Dellacasagrande; adult/7-14yr €8/5; h9am-7pm Jul & Aug, 9am-noon & 2-5.30pm Apr-Jun & Sep-Nov, closed some weekends in low season) in St-Bénoît, 2km north of Digne-les-Bains en route to Barle, where four trails explore the region's geology and natural history. Highlights include a sculpture park, a Japanese garden, a waterfall and the gorgeous Jardin des Papillons (Butterfly Garden), which attracts more than half of France's butterfly species.

Parc National du Mercantour

Created in 1979, this vast national park – one of 10 in France – covers seven separate alpine valleys and a total area of 685 sq km. Pocked by deep valleys and spiked with jagged peaks, it's a pristine landscape that's rightly celebrated for its flora and fauna, including rare species such as the ibex, the mouflon, the golden eagle and even a few wild grey wolves. At the heart of the park rises the Cime du Gélas, the third-highest mountain in the Alps-Maritimes at 3143m.

Unsurprisingly, it's a haven for outdoor activities: skiing and snowboarding in winter, hiking and biking in summer, and pretty much everything else besides.

Digne-les-Bains

Pop 17,680 / Elev 608m

There's little to merit an extended stop in Digne-les-Bains – it's a useuful crossroads when you're travelling between the Luberon and Haute-Provence, but it's short on sights and charm. Originally the town grew up as a hot-spring spa; it's now an important centre for the lavender industry. The city celebrates August's harvest with a five-day festival, the Corso de la Lavande.

Although not officially part of the Parc National du Mercantour, the town is a useful gateway to the park.

1Sights & Activities

Fondation Alexandra David-NéelMUSEUM

(%04 92 31 32 38; www.alexandra-david-neel.com; 27 av Maréchal Juin; h2hr tours 10am, 2pm & 3.30pm)F

Paris-born writer and philosopher Alexandra David-Néel – among France's great historical figures – was the first woman to enter (incognito) into Tibet's temples. Later she settled in Digne. This museum pays homage to both the woman and her fascination with Tibet. A festival, Journées Tibetaines (Tibetan Days), happens in August or September.

Musée GassendiMUSEUM

(%04 92 31 45 29; www.musee-gassendi.org; place des Récollets; adult/student €4/free; h11am-7pm Apr-Sep, 1.30-5.30pm Oct-Mar, closed Tue)

This museum displays compelling contemporary art by Andy Goldsworthy, natural-history exhibits, and works by 16th-century philosopher-scientist Pierre Gassendi.

Refuge d'ArtSCULPTURE

(www.refugedart.fr)

In the mountains around Digne, British contemporary artist Andy Goldsworthy has created a series of outdoor sculptures along a 150km hiking circuit through awe-inspiring alpine landscapes. Called the Refuge d'Art, the loop passes giant rock hives and cairns that stand like sentinels. You can even sleep inside some of them (by advance reservation). Contact the Digne tourist office for maps and details on guided walks.

Via Ferrata du Rocher de Neuf HeuresHIKING

(ww.ot-dignelesbains.fr; h6am-8pm high season, 8am-5pm low season)

Inspired by the system of fixed ladders and cables that Italian troops used to travel through the Dolomites in WWII, Digne's via ferrata course allows you all the thrill of rock climbing without the need for experience. If you've done it before, you can rent the necessary kit at the tourist office – or arrange a guide if it's your first time.

All you'll need is to be fit, and have a head for heights.

4Sleeping & Eating

Hôtel Villa GaïaHISTORIC HOTEL€€

(%04 92 31 21 60; www.hotelvillagaia.fr; 24 rte de Nice; s €55-110, d €72-120, f €110-180; hApr-Oct)

Digne's hotels leave a lot to be desired, so it's worth heading 2km west of town to this lovely 19th-century villa, brimful of antiques and architectural élan. It feels like the private mansion it once was, with Italianate gardens, tennis court, library and grand dining room. Tables d'hôte by reservation. The gate shuts at 11pm.

Le 28MEDITERRANEAN€

(%04 92 35 23 38; 28 rue de l'Hubac; tapas dishes €3-6; h10am-11pm)

Great wine and even better tapas are what's on the menu at this super (if tiny) Franco-Spanish bar. You can buy olive oils, wines, pickled peppers and other goodies to take home too.

Le ChaudronFRENCH€€

(%04 92 31 24 87; 40 rue de l'Hubac; mains €9-17.50, menus €23-32; hlunch noon-2.30pm, dinner 7.30-10pm Fri-Tue)

Hidden in the old town, this is a reliable bet for Provençal staples – especially fish and meat cooked over a wood fire.

8Information

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

(%04 92 36 62 62; www.ot-dignelesbains.fr; place du Tampinet; h9am-noon & 2-6pm daily, closed weekends winter)

8Getting There & Away

Bus

LER operates local buses.

AMarseille Line 28; €21.50, two hours, four to six daily Monday to Saturday. Via Volx and Manosque.

ANice Line 31; €22.20, 3½ hours, two daily.

AAvignon Line 22; €28.40, 2½ hours, every two hours. Via Forcalquier and Apt.

ABarcelonnette Line 34; €12.50, 1½ hours, one daily.

Train

The Train des Pignes serves Nice and stations in between.

DON'T MISS

TRAIN DES PIGNES

Zipping between mountains and sea, the narrow-gauge Train des Pignes (Pine Cone Train; www.trainprovence.com; single fare Nice to Digne €23.30) is one of Provence’s most picturesque trips. Conceived in 1861 and opened in 1911, the line was originally served by steam locomotives: a vintage train still puffs a few stops around Puget-Théniers on Sunday between spring and autumn.

Rising to 1000m in altitude, the 151km track passes through 50 tunnels and over 16 viaducts and 15 metal bridges along its cliff-hugging journey to Digne-les-Bains, stopping at nearly 50 villages en route. The mountain views on all sides are magnificent.

The entire trip from Nice to Digne-les-Bains takes 3¼ hours (€23.30 one way). There are usually five trains a day; if you don't have time for the whole journey, hop off at Entrevaux, 1½ hours from Nice (€11.80 one way), have a wander around the village, then catch the train back a couple of hours later.

Schedules are available at Chemins de Fer de Provence (%04 97 03 80 80; www.trainprovence.com).

Vallée de L’Ubaye

The national park's northern edge and least-visited area, the narrow Ubaye Valley runs east–west beneath snowcapped mountains, delimiting the high Alps from Haute-Provence.

The valley’s only town, Barcelonnette (elevation 1135m), has an unexpected Mexican heritage and exceptional, very un-alpine architecture. From the 18th century until WWII, some 5000 residents emigrated to Mexico to seek their fortunes in the silk- and wool-weaving industries; upon their return, they built mansions, one of which houses the town museum. The town hosts an annual Mexican festival in mid-August, complete with mariachis and street parades.

1Sights & Activities

Musée de la ValléeMUSEUM

(%04 92 81 27 15; 10 av de la Libération, Barcelonnette; adult/10-18yr/under 10yr €4/2/free; h10am-noon & 2.30-6.30pm daily mid-Jul & Aug, 2.30-6pm Wed-Sat rest of year, closed mid-Nov–mid-Dec)

This intriguing museum explores the valley's history. Highlights include a fascinating collection of Bronze Age arrowheads, axes, rings and bracelets, various exhibits relating to the adventurous naturalist Émile Chabrand, and some fine pieces of Mexican art brought back by the town's emigrés.

Bureau des Guides de l'UbayeOUTDOORS

(%06 86 67 38 73; www.guides-montagne-ubaye.com; rue Manuel, Barcelonnette)

Unsurprisingly, the Ubaye is great for outdoor sports – particularly hardcore cycling, thanks to its absurdly high mountain passes. In summer Le Martinet, 15km west of Barcelonnette, is a base for mountain-biking and rafting trips. Practically every activity you can think of, from rafting to paragliding, can be arranged through this Barcelonnette outdoors provider.

Pra LoupSKIING, BIKING

(%04 92 84 10 04; www.praloup.com)

This sprawling ski resort is 8.5km southwest of Barcelonnette, and has two main areas: Pra Loup 1500 (sometimes called Les Molanes) and Pra Loup 1600 (with more infrastructure and nightlife). Together they form the southern Alps' largest snow-sports destination, and in summer the lifts provide transport for mountain bikers and hikers.

4Sleeping

oLes MéansB&B€€

(%04 92 81 03 91; www.les-means.com; D900, Méolans-Revel; d €109-119, f €139-149; W)S

This ravishing mountain B&B combines the rustic architecture of the 15th-century house with all the trappings of a modern B&B. The rooms are charming: our pick is the Suite Alpages, with its Heidi-esque decor and original fireplace. The surroundings are supremely peaceful, with a wood-fired hot tub and mountains on all sides. Ask owners Babette and Frédéric to show you the house's secret tunnel.

Hôtel AztecaHOTEL€€

(%04 92 81 46 36; 3 rue François Arnaud, Barcelonnette; s €61-93, d €74-118, tr €94-133; W)

A sweet hotel with decor dabbling in the town's Mexican connections, from sunny pictures to papier-maché cats and multicoloured bathroom tiles. For maximum Mexicana, ask for the Chambre Mexicaine. Breakfast is served on a glorious terrace.

Villa MoreliaHISTORIC HOTEL€€€

(%04 92 84 67 78; www.villa-morelia.com; Jausiers; s €120-140, d €150-280, ste €240-350; aWs)

In the hamlet of Jausiers, this is the regal choice: a veritable mini-château, complete with turret, 18th-century furnishings and a gorgeous leafy park. The bedrooms are very elegant: some have rococo detailing and clawfoot baths, others are more modern in style.

5Eating

Le PatioPIZZA€€

(%04 92 81 36 86; www.lepatio-barcelonnette.com; 1 Rue Manuel, Barcelonnette; mains €9-15; hlunch noon-2pm, dinner 7-10pm)

A relaxed, friendly and quite stylish diner overlooking Barcelonnette's handsome main square, place de la Mairie. Pizzas and pastas are the speciality, but it does heartier mountain fare too.

Poivre d'ÂneFRENCH€€

(%04 92 81 48 67; www.le-poivre-ane-barcelonnette.fr; 49 rue Manuel, Barcelonnette; menus €21-31; hlunch 12.30-2pm, dinner 7.30-9.30pm)

On Barcelonnette's main shopping street, this timber-clad auberge is the place to stuff yourself silly with mountain sausages, cheesy tartiflettes (potatoes, cheese and bacon baked in a casserole) and even cheesier fondues. With its cute shutters, vintage skis and other alpine ephemera, all it really lacks is the lonely goatherd.

DRIVING IN HAUTE-PROVENCE

It's only an hour north of Nice, but make no mistake: you're in the Alps proper in Haute-Provence. Heavy snowfall means that the highest passes (cols) are usually only open between May and September. Access roads have signs indicating whether the pass is 'ouvert' (open) or 'fermé' (closed), or you can check in advance with local tourist offices.

A road map is indispensable: GPS units have a nasty habit of leading you up steep, narrow roads that really aren't designed for cars and frequently don't have guard rails. Also look out for deep gullies along the roadsides – if you run a front wheel into them you'll need a tow truck to get you out. Note that snow tyres are required on many roads during winter.

From west to east, the main passes that close in winter are:

Col d’Allos (2250m) Links the north–south D126/D908 from Allos in the Vallée du Haut Verdon to Barcelonnette in the Vallée de l’Ubaye.
Col de la Cayolle (2326m) Links the Vallée du Haut Var with the Vallée de l'Ubaye along the D2202/D902, running north–south from St-Martin-d'Entraunes to Barcelonnette.
Col de Restefond la Bonette (2802m) Europe's highest mountain pass links the D64 from St-Étienne-de-Tinée in the Vallée de la Tinée to Barcelonnette in the Vallée de l’Ubaye.
Col des Champs (2095m) The east–west D2/D72 road connecting St-Martin-d'Entraunes in the Vallée du Haut Var with Colmars-les-Alpes in the Vallée d'Allos.

8Information

Parc National du Mercantour, Barcelonnette Visitors CentreTOURIST INFORMATION

(%04 92 81 21 31; www.mercantour.eu; D900, Barcelonnette; h9am-noon & 2-6pm Jul & Aug only)

Info on the national park supplied by rangers and clued-up park staff.

Barcelonnette Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

(%04 92 81 04 71; www.barcelonnette.net; place Frédéric Mistral, Barcelonnette; h9am-12.30pm & 1.30-7.30pm Jul & Aug, 9am-noon & 2-6pm Mon-Sat Sep-Jun)

Ask for info on the Mexican Festival and the Tour de France, which rolls through town most years.

8Getting There & Away

Buses to the valley are erratic, especially outside school term times.

Autocars SCALBUS

(%04 92 51 06 05; www.scal-amv-voyages.com)

Daily bus to Barcelonnette from Gap (€25, four hours) and Digne (€8.60, 90 minutes).

Vallée du Haut Verdon

It's only an hour or so's drive from Digne, but there's something about this valley that feels truly remote; especially the further north you travel, as the villages peter out, the mountains stack up along the horizon and the road draws ever closer to the dizzying Col d'Allos, the high mountain pass that connects this valley with the Vallée de l'Ubaye to the north (unsurprisingly, at 2250m, the pass is usually snowbound between October and May).

In winter there's skiiing around Foux d'Allos (www.valdallos.com), a prettier resort than nearby Pra Loup, whose ugly towers lurk just beyond the pass. In summer the whole area becomes a hiker's haven, but in the shoulder months the whole place feels decidedly quiet.

1Sights & Activities

Colmars-les-AlpesVILLAGE

With its towers, turrets and ramparts, this medieval village looks like a relic from a Monty Python film set. In the late 14th century, the valleys around Allos and Barcelonnette to the north were given to the Duchy of Savoy, and Colmars became an important border town, which meant it also required fortification. Despite some additions by the military architect Vauban in the 18th century, the village looks largely as it would have during medieval times.

There's a small museum detailing the village's history, but the main attraction is just wandering round its shady cobbled streets. Some sections of the ramparts are open in summer. The square Fort de France and larger Fort de Savoie to the north were Vauban's additions.

Lac d’AllosLAKE

It’s worth the trek (and metered traffic) to reach Europe's largest alpine lake, Lac d’Allos (2226m; inaccessible autumn to spring). From Allos, narrow, bumpy D226 climbs 12km to parking; then it's a 40-minute walk. Trail maps are available from the summer-only Parc National du Mercantour hut (%06 32 90 80 24; www.mercantour.eu; hJul & Aug) at the car park. Sited right beside the lake, the Refuge du Lac d'Allos (%04 92 83 00 24; www.refugedulacdallos.com; dm incl breakfast & dinner €41, menu of the day €19.50) is an ideal spot for lunch, and has dorms if you're planning an overnight hike.

RetrouvanceHIKING

(www.onf.fr/retrouvance/sommaire/sejours/haut-verdon; 6-day hikes €570)

Run by the Office Nationale des Fôrets, this fantastic multiday hike runs through the mountains from Thorame to Lac d'Allos, and includes an official guide as well as overnight accommodation in gîtes (self-catering cottages) and farmhouses. Reservations can be made online or through Colmars' tourist office.

4Sleeping & Eating

Le MartagonHOTEL€

(%04 92 83 14 26; www.le-martagon.com; Villars Colmars; mains €14.50-19.50, d €50-72, f €72-113)

A smart, modern restaurant-with-rooms in the quiet village of Villars Colmars. The accommodation is basic but comfortable, with small rooms enlivened by splashes of magenta, lime and brown; there are also timber camping pods in the hotel's grassy grounds. The restaurant serves filling mountain fare such as cheesy tartiflette, veal cutlet and 'gargantuan' cheeseburgers.

Hotel Le FranceHOTEL€

(%04 92 83 42 93; www.hotel-lefrance-colmars.com; Colmars-les-Alpes; s €47-56, d €58-66, tr €75-87, f €77-90; W)

Situated right opposite the main gate of Colmars-les-Alpes, this simple, good-value hotel makes a decent base in the valley. It's far from luxurious, but the rooms are reasonable and the restaurant serves generous portions. There are also a couple of small apartments with kitchenettes.

Les TranshumancesB&B, APARTMENT€

(%04 92 83 44 39; www.lestranshumances.fr; Les Espiniers, Colmars-les-Alpes; s/d/tr/q incl breakfast €60/80/95/105, cottages per week €430-520; W)S

This quiet 18th-century farm, high above Colmars, has incredible mountain vistas, spotless rooms with wooden accents and self-catering apartments. Gentle, kind owners. The guest-only table d'hôte (€23) includes wine.

oLa Ferme Girerd-PotinFRENCH€€

(%04 92 83 04 76; www.chambredhotes-valdallos.com; rte de la Foux; r per person incl breakfast & dinner €50-59; hby reservation Oct-Apr, Jul & Aug; c)

On a working 17th-century farm, high above the Verdon, this cosy ferme auberge grows all provisions for its thrilling rustic-alpine dinners, served fireside in a candlelit, wood-and-stone dining room. Everything – from vegetables to foie gras, bread to cheese – is homemade. Make reservations 24 hours in advance. The farm is 5km north of Allos.

Upstairs are B&B rooms, some with kitchenette and wood-burning fireplace.

7Shopping

Maison des Produits de Pays des Alpes du VerdonFOOD & DRINK

(%04 92 83 58 57; www.maisonproduitspays-alpesduverdon.fr; Beauvezer; h9.30am-12.30pm & 2.30-7pm)

This attractive co-operative shop is a great place to pick up local souvenirs, from goat's cheeses, jams and honeys to handmade candles and woodcrafts.

8Information

Val d'Allos Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

(%04 92 83 02 81; www.valdallos.com; h9am-noon & 2-6pm)

Covers activities and accommodation around the entire Haut-Verdon.

Colmars-les-Alpes Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

(%04 92 83 41 92; www.colmars-les-alpes.fr; Ancienne Auberge Fleurie; h9am-12.30pm & 2-6.30pm Jul & Aug, 9am-noon & 2-5.45pm Sep-Jun, shorter hours Sun)

Colmar's tourist office provides comprehensive advice on hiking, mountain biking, rafting and horse riding in the valley.

Vallée du Haut-Var

The Gorges du Verdon get the plaudits, but the Vallée du Haut-Var has its own spectacular twinset of valleys: the crimson Gorges de Daluis and Gorges du Cians, which can be linked in a memorable 82km loop.

It makes a great (if long) day trip from Nice, but be prepared for narrow roads and a lot of driving. The best route is to take the D6202 west, then turn off onto the D902 towards Daluis and the gorges. On the D28, the ski town of Valberg and the small village of Beuil (elevation 1450m) make useful lunch stops, before you return south along the D28 through the Gorges du Cians, then return to Nice.

1Sights & Activities

oGorges de DaluisCANYON

This stunning network of scarlet gorges looks for all the world like it's been collected from Arizona and plonked down in Haute-Provence. Carved out over the millennia by the Var River, it runs for 6km between Guillaumes and Daluis, twisting high above the river past towering sandstone cliffs, weird rock formations and plunging waterfalls. It's best seen in a northbound direction on the D902/D2202, as tunnels on the southbound lane obscure most of the views.

Along the way, it's worth stopping at viewpoints including the Tête du Femme, a rock formation shaped like a lady's head, and the Cascade d'Amen, an impressive waterfall that tumbles down a sheer cliff into the river far below. Also look out for the Pont de la Mariée, where a local girl supposedly committed suicide to avoid her impending marriage. You can see why she chose this spot: it's dizzyingly high, and a popular location for bungee jumping. Contact Top Jump (%04 93 73 50 29; http://topjump.free.fr; jumps €60; h11am-7pm Tue-Sun summer) if you're feeling brave.

Sentier du Point SublimeVIEWPOINT

This 4km hiking trail starts at the Pont de Berthéou, 8km south of Guillaumes on the D2202. It climbs through oak-and-pine forest and scarlet rock forms to a famous panoramic viewpoint, aptly known as Point Sublime. It's a 90-minute hike there and back, longer in hot weather.

8Information

Maison du Parc National du MercantourTOURIST INFORMATION

(%04 93 02 58 23; varcians@mercantour-parcnational.fr; rue Jean Mineur, Valberg; h9am-noon & 2-6pm Thu-Tue, also Wed school holidays)

General information on the Mercantour national park.

Valberg Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

(%04 93 23 24 25; www.valberg.com; place du Quartier, Valberg; h9am-noon & 2-6pm)

Valberg's tourist office makes room reservations and organises local activities.

Vallée de la Tinée

This steep, V-shaped valley runs north for 149km all the way from the pretty little town of St-Sauveur-sur-Tinée (elevation 490m) to the Vallée de l'Ubaye. En route, it climbs up and over the Col de Restefond la Bonette, Europe's highest road pass – and invariably the last one to open after the spring thaw (usually in late May but sometimes as late as early June). It's a favourite for road-trippers and motorbikers, and occasionally features on the Tour de France. During winter, the valley can only be accessed from the south.

If you're road-tripping, there are good options for lunch in St-Sauveur-sur-Tinée and the smaller, less-touristed village of St-Dalmas-le-Selvage. At 1100m elevation, the mountain-top village of Roure is also worth a detour thanks to its amazing alpine arboretum – as long as you can handle the hair-raisingly steep, twisty mountain road. From the 1920s until 1961, villagers used a 1850m-long cable to transport items up the mountain; the cable still remains.

1Sights

oArboretum Marcel KroenleinGARDENS

(%09 77 31 68 33; www.arboretum-roure.org; Roure; suggested donation adult/child €5/free; h10am-6pm; c)

This alpine garden is probably the last thing you'd expect in tiny Roure. It's a pet project of Monaco's Prince Rainier, who's covered 15 steep-sided hectares (ranging in altitude from 1200m to 1700m) with mountain trees and flora, interspersed with sculptures by Niçois artists. If you're really lucky, you might even spot an eagle or vulture wheeling over the garden terraces.

4Sleeping & Eating

Ma Vieille ÉcoleB&B€

(%04 93 03 43 05; www.mavieilleecole.com; D61, Roya; incl breakfast dm €25, half-board per adult/child €45/35; hMay-Sep)

Hidden high in the mountains, this family-run auberge is great for a traditional lunch, with plates piled with cheese, charcuterie and other goodies. It also has gîte rooms if you're looking for somewhere to kip on a mountain walk. From D2205, look for the turn-off 5km south of St-Etienne-la-Tinée or 9km north of Isola; Roya lies 6km west of D2205.

Auberge Le RoburGASTRONOMIC€€€

(%04 93 02 03 57; www.aubergelerobur.fr; Roure; d €76, d incl breakfast & dinner €166-186)

Perched at 1100m, this village restaurant is a destination in its own right – for not just the food but the views. Young chef Christophe Billau has worked in kitchens in France and overseas, and he brings a playful, pan-global style to his refined food. Upstairs are seven spotless valley-view rooms, making this an ideal one-nighter two hours from Nice.

8Information

Mercantour National Park Office, St-Étienne-de-TinéeTOURIST INFORMATION

(%04 93 02 42 27; quartier de l'Ardon, St-Étienne-de-Tinée; hJul & Aug)

Vallée de la Vésubie

Dotted with hilltop mountain towns and flanked by craggy peaks, the Vallée de la Vésubie stakes a reputable claim as the prettiest valley in Haute-Provence – it's known as 'La Suisse Niçoise' for a reason. Once the private hunting reserve of King Victor Emmanuel II of Italy, it's now a hub for all manner of outdoor activities: hiking, biking, wildlife watching, paragliding and via ferrata, to name a few.

The main town, St-Martin-Vésubie (elevation 1000m) is a central place to base yourself for wider forays around the Mercantour, with plenty of hotels, restaurants and activity providers in the area. Roughly halfway along the valley, this attractive mountain town has preserved much of its medieval character: you can still glimpse vestiges of its original ramparts and one of its town gates on its steep main street, which climbs sharply through the centre of the old town. In the late 19th and early 20th centuries – the heyday of the era of railway tourism in Provence – St-Martin was a popular spot for overnighting, and the facades of a few of the old grand hotels can still be seen around town. It's also a hub for hiking, with 13 marked trails climbing through the surrounding mountains, intersecting with four Grande Randonnée (GR) paths.

The hilltop villages of Belvédère (820m), 12km south of St-Martin-Vésubie, and La Colmiane (1795m), 7km west, are well worth visiting for their wraparound mountain views.

1Sights

oAlpha, Le Parc des LoupsWILDLIFE RESERVE

(%04 93 02 33 69; www.alpha-loup.com; Le Boréon; adult/child €12/10; h10am-5pm or 6pm Apr-Oct; c)

The grey wolf was hunted to extinction in France by 1930, but in 1992 two 'funny-looking dogs' were spotted near Utelle, presumably having loped across the Italian border. Since then, the animals have made a comeback in the French Alps, and though they're hard to spot in the wild, you'll have a good chance of a sighting at this fascinating wolf reserve, where three packs live in semifreedom.

Several trails wind through the reserve, where you can stop and watch the wolves from specially constructed hides. The park's mountain-top location in Le Boréon is worth a visit in its own right; you can stay overnight at one of the on-site gîtes (€350 to €600 in summer) or treehouses (€150 per night).

La Madone de FenestresCHURCH

At an altitude of 1904m, this impressively situated hilltop church was supposedly founded on the site where a local villager had a vision of the Virgin Mary; twice a year, on 15 August and 8 September, there's a solemn procession to commemorate the event. The statue of Mary inside is thought to have been carved from a Lebanese cedar in the 14th century.

The church is also the starting point for a number of hiking trails, including several that run over the Italian border.

2Activities

Bureau des Guides du MercantourHIKING

(%04 93 03 31 32; www.guidescapade.com; place du Marché, St-Martin-Vésubie; hJul & Aug)

Experienced hiking guides who run walks, climbs and canyoning excursions, plus expeditions into the Vallée des Merveilles.

Horse&VenturesHORSE RIDING

(%06 22 29 58 86; www.horseandventures.com; Le Boréon; 2hr ride €30, full-day ride €60)

English-speaking Denis Longfellow runs horseback trips from Le Boréon as well as longer tuition courses.

4Sleeping & Eating

Le BoréonHOTEL€

(%04 93 03 20 35; www.hotel-boreon.com; d/tr/q from €75/105/135, menus from €35; hclosed Nov-Mar; W)

Magical mountain views unfurl from this large Swiss-chalet-style hotel 8km north of St-Martin-Vésubie. Ground-floor rooms are cosiest, with pine walls and shared terrace. The restaurant serves alpine specialities.

oMoonlight ChaletBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€

(%06 89 25 36 74; www.moonlightchalet.com; 8 rue Rumplemeyer, St-Martin-Vésubie; r incl breakfast €110-130; sc)

You might have found your perfect mountain getaway: three bewitching lodges and two duplex rooms next to a chattering creek, surrounded by silent mountains and dense forest. They sleep two to four people and feature decorative details inspired by nature – bathtubs made from river rocks, furniture crafted from tree trunks – and one is even built around a fir tree.

The lodges have private kitchens, and the chalet rooms have shared cooking facilities. Electricity is solar powered, but there's no TV or wi-fi – a deliberate choice to ensure you make the most of the bucolic surroundings. A lovely organic breakfast is included in the rates.

La Bonne AubergeHOTEL€€

(%04 93 03 20 49; www.labonneauberge06.fr; 98 allée du Verdun, St-Martin-Vésubie; s/d/f from €46/59/78 ; hFeb–mid-Dec; Wc)

A classic, old-fashioned family-run French hotel – in the same hands since 1946. Pine-clad rooms and a traditional restaurant (menus €25 to €31) full of mountain knick-knacks (boars' heads, snowshoes, hunting horns) reinforce the alpine vibe. Peek into the bar to see St-Martin's first TV set (c 1960). The best rooms overlook the village's pétanque (a variant on the game of bowls) square.

8Information

St-Martin-Vésubie Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

(%04 93 03 21 28; www.saintmartinvesubie.fr; pl Félix Faure, St-Martin-Vésubie; h8.30am-12.30pm & 2-7pm daily Jul & Aug, 9am-noon & 2-7pm Mon-Sat Sep-Jun; W)

St-Martin's efficient tourist office organises walks and has lists of local activity providers.

Maison du Parc National du MercantourTOURIST INFORMATION

(Visitor Centre; %04 93 03 23 15; www.mercantour.eu; rue Serrurier, St-Martin-Vésubie; h9am-noon & 2-6pm mid-Jun–mid-Sep)

Summer-only office staffed by park rangers.

8Getting There & Away

Conseil Général des Alpes-Maritimes (www.cg06.fr) buses (€1) connect Nice with St-Martin-Vésubie (one hour) and La Colmiane (1¼ hours).

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

VALLéE DES MERVEILLES

Wedged between the Vésubie and Roya valleys, this narrow, remote canyon (the Valley of Wonders) is famous for its amazing Bronze Age petroglyphs (ancient pictures carved into rock). In total, the valley contains more than 36,000 prehistoric carvings of figures, symbols and animals, thought to have been etched by members of a Ligurian cult between 1800 and 1500 BC.

Most can only be seen on foot. Trails remain snow covered into late spring; the best time is June to October. Access is restricted without a guide, which you can arrange through the Mercantour National Park visitor centres or the Bureau des Guides du Mercantour in St-Martin-Vésubie.

Access to the valley from the south is on the D171 from the Vallée de la Vésubie, or from the west on the D91 from the Vallée de la Roya via Casterino.

Vallée de la Roya

Occupied by Italy during WWII, the Roya only became part of France in 1947. Wedged hard against the Italian border, the valley runs all the way from the coast to Tende, where a tunnel built in 1892 burrows under the mountains into Italy. It's a great day trip from Nice, either by car or aboard the grandly titled Train des Merveilles.

St-Dalmas-de-Tende and nearby Casterino are the main gateway into the Vallée des Merveilles. From St-Dalmas-de-Tende, the D91 winds 10km west to Lac des Mesches (1390m), where trails lead into the valley (plan on eight hours' hiking, round-trip). Alternatively, you can cheat and catch a 4WD.

1Sights

Monastère de SaorgeMONASTERY

(%04 93 04 55 55; http://saorge.monuments-nationaux.fr/en; h10am-noon & 2-5pm Wed-Mon)

Situated 9km north of Breil-sur-Roya, the dramatic Gorges de Saorge lead to the fortified village of Saorge (elevation 520m). Perched on sheer cliffs, the village is a maze of tangled streets, with lots of 15th- to 17th-century houses, as well as this Franciscan monastery, notable for its baroque church, decorated with frescoes of St Francis.

Notre Dame des FontainesCHURCH

(admission €2; h10am-12.30pm & 2-5.30pm May-Oct)

Dubbed the Sistine Chapel of the Southern Alps, this church is famous for its wall-to-wall 15th-century frescoes, created by Piedmontese painters Jean Canavesio and Jean Baleison. It's 4km north of La Brigue.

Musée des MerveillesMUSEUM

(%04 93 04 32 50; av du 16 Septembre 1947, Tende; h10am-6.30pm May–mid-Oct, 10am-5pm mid-Oct–Apr, closed Tue Sep-Jun)F

In Tende, this museum explores the valley's archaeological and historical significance.

Maison du Miel et de l’AbeilleMUSEUM

(%04 93 04 76 22; place Lieutenant Kalck, Tende; h2-5pm Wed-Fri, 9.30am-12.30pm & 1-5pm weekends Jul & Aug only)

This little museum celebrates the craft of local honey-makers. Needless to say, there are plenty of opportunities to taste the goods – this is France, after all.

2Activities

Train des MerveillesTOUR

(return from Nice adult/child €15/7.50; hMay-Oct)

For fans of the iron horse, this scenic rail ride is a trip not to be missed. It runs north from Nice right through the Vallée de la Roya, passing hilltop villages, dramatic canyons and mountain vistas en route. You even get a commentary (in French) courtesy of the conductor.

From June to September, the train leaves Nice every day at 9.23am, arriving in Tende at 11.24am. It only runs on weekends in May and October. Bookings can be made online or in Nice's main station. The train makes stops in Sospel, Breil-sur-Roya, St-Dalmas-de-Tende and Tende.

Roya ÉvasionCYCLING, CANYONING

(%04 93 04 91 46; www.royaevasion.com; 1 rue Pasteur, Breil-sur-Roya)

Breil-sur-Roya is the valley’s water-sports base. This experienced outfit organises kayaking, canyoning and rafting on the Roya River, plus hiking and mountain biking. It also conducts English-language rock-art tours to the Merveilles.

4x4 MerveillesADVENTURE SPORTS

(www.4x4merveilles.com; adult/child €85/50)

Local 4x4 guides run regular trips to see the rock art of the Vallée des Merveilles. Bookings are made through the tourist office in Tende.

Bike Park SospelCYCLING

(www.espace-vtt-sospel.com)

Local bike enthusiasts have created 150km of trails just outside Sospel, but most are designed for experienced riders. Contact the tourist office in Sospel (%04 93 04 15 80; www.sospel-tourisme.com; 19 av Jean Medecin; h10am-2.30pm & 1.30-5.30pm Mon-Sat, 10am-12.30pm Sun) for further information.

4Sleeping & Eating

Le PrieuréHOTEL€

(%04 93 04 75 70; www.leprieure.org; rue Jean Medecin, St-Dalmas-de-Tende; s €50.50-68, d €58.50-78, tr €69-93.50, mains €10.50-14)

It was once a priory, and there's still a whiff of the monastical about this place – in the ecclesiastical architecture and the rather spartan decor. Still, if you can bag a room overlooking the river, you'll be thoroughly blessed. The restaurant is great, too, with intriguing dishes like chestnut gnocchi and 'soupe de pierres' (literally 'friar's soup'; meat-and-veg stew).

Chamois d'OrHOTEL€€

(%04 93 04 66 66; www.hotelchamoisdor.net; Hameau de Casterino; s €75-90, d €90-135)

The Golden Mountain Goat could have come straight from the Swiss Alps, with its chalet-style balconies, timber cladding and brightly coloured shutters. The rooms are plain – wooden floors, wardrobe, not much else – but the restaurant is altogether more generous, especially with regard to mountain dishes like raclette (cheesy potato bake) and spit-roasted meat.

8Information

Tende Tourism & Mercantour National Park OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

(%04 93 04 73 71; www.tendemerveilles.com; av du 16 Septembre 1947; h9am-noon & 2-5pm Mon-Sat, 9am-noon Sun)

Tende’s tourist office provides details on guided archaeological walks and 4WD trips to Mont Bégo and the Vallée des Merveilles.

8Getting There & Away

Car

The tortuous mountain roads around Sospel (especially from the Vésubie) are scenic but not for the faint of heart. From Nice, the fastest route is to take the autoroute to Ventimiglia (across the Italian border), then follow it north back into France towards the Col de Tende (Italian signs read 'Colle di Tenda').

Train

The Train des Merveilles runs from Nice through the valley to Tende.

Haute-Provence & the Southern Alps

Haute-Provence & the Southern Alps

Why Go?

Driving Distances (km)

Best Places to Eat

Best Places to Stay

Haute-Provence & Southern Alps Highlights

Pays de Forcalquier

Forcalquier & Around

St-Michel l'Observatoire

Simiane la Rotonde

BISTROT DE PAYS

Banon

Vallée de la Durance

WORTH A TRIP

ROUTE DU TEMPS

MARKET DAYS

Gorges du Verdon

2Driving TourGorge Explorer

Lacs de Ste-Croix & de Quinson

Moustiers Ste-Marie & Around

Castellane & Around

WORTH A TRIP

RéSERVE GéOLOGIQUE DE HAUTE-PROVENCE

Parc National du Mercantour

Digne-les-Bains

DON'T MISS

TRAIN DES PIGNES

Vallée de L’Ubaye

DRIVING IN HAUTE-PROVENCE

Vallée du Haut Verdon

Vallée du Haut-Var

Vallée de la Tinée

Vallée de la Vésubie

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

VALLéE DES MERVEILLES

Vallée de la Roya

`2`Driving Tour
Gorge Explorer