Directory A–Z

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Accommodation

Price Ranges

The following price ranges apply to a standard double room with private bathroom, breakfast not included.

€ less than €90

€€ €90–190

€€€ more than €190

Climate

Customs Regulations

Goods imported and exported within the EU incur no additional taxes, provided duty has already been paid somewhere within the EU and the goods are for personal consumption. Duty-free shopping is only available if you are leaving the EU. For full details, see www.douane.gouv.fr.

Coming from non-EU countries, the following duty-free adult allowances apply:

200 cigarettes

50 cigars

1L of spirits

2L of wine

50mL of perfume

250mL of eau de toilette

Discount Cards

Many museums and monuments sell billets jumelés (combination tickets). Some cities have museum passes. Seniors over 60 or 65 are entitled to discounts on public transport, museums and cinemas. Train discounts are available.

French Riviera Pass Admission to all Nice’s paying attractions, plus many nearby.

Snowball Pass (www.snowballpass.com) Skiing discounts.

Electricity

Embassies & Consulates

All embassies are in Paris, but several countries have consulates in Marseille or Nice.

Australian EmbassyEMBASSY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %01 40 59 33 00; www.france.embassy.gov.au; 4 rue Jean Rey, 15e; mBir Hakeim)

Canadian EmbassyEMBASSY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %01 44 43 29 00; www.amb-canada.fr; 35 av Montaigne, 8e; mFranklin D Roosevelt)

Dutch ConsulateCONSULATE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 91 25 66 64; www.amb-pays-bas.fr; 146 rue Paradis, Marseille)

Dutch ConsulateCONSULATE

(%04 93 87 52 94; www.amb-pays-bas.fr; 14 rue Rossini, Nice)

German ConsulateCONSULATE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 91 16 75 20; www.marseille.diplo.de; 338 av du Prado, Marseille)

Irish ConsulateCONSULATE

(%(377) 9315 7045; www.dfa.ie; av des Citronniers, Monaco)

New Zealand EmbassyEMBASSY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %01 45 01 43 43; www.nzembassy.com/france; 7ter rue Léonard de Vinci, 16e; mVictor Hugo)

UK ConsulateCONSULATE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 91 15 72 10; www.gov.uk/government/world/organisations/british-embassy-paris/office/british-consulate-marseille; 24 av du Prado, Marseille)

US ConsulateCONSULATE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 91 54 92 00; http://marseille.usconsulate.gov; place Varian Fry, Marseille)

US ConsulateCONSULATE

(%04 93 88 89 55; http://marseille.usconsulate.gov; 7 av Gustave V, Nice)

Food

Eating Price Ranges

The following prices refer to two-course menus – appetiser and main, or main and dessert.

€ less than €20

€€ €20–40

€€€ more than €40

Gay & Lesbian Travellers

France is liberal about LGBTIQ matters, but, as always, rural Provence tends to be more conservative than its big cities. Aix-en-Provence, Nice and Cannes have gay bars, while Marseille has the region's biggest gay community and hosts the late-June Lesbian & Gay Parade (www.lgpmarseille.fr).

Centre Évolutif Lilith (CEL; %06 99 55 06 02; http://celmrs.free.fr; 93 La Canebière) Lesbian socialising, activism.

Gay Provence (%04 91 84 08 96; www.gay-provence.org) Hotel listings.

Gay Map Marseille (www.gaymapmarseille.com) Entertainment in Aix and Marseille.

Health

Before You Go

Carry medications in original, clearly labelled containers in carry-on luggage.

Dental care in France is good; get a predeparture check-up to minimise risk.

No vaccinations required for France, but the World Health Organization recommends travellers be vaccinated against diphtheria, tetanus, measles, mumps, rubella and polio, regardless of destination.

French tap water is safe to drink, but water from fountains reading 'eau non potable' is not.

Availability & Cost of Healthcare

For emergencies, dial 15 for ambulance (SAMU) or urgent house call. Or find the nearest hôpital (hospital) or salles des urgence (emergency rooms). Doctors' offices are cabinets médicals.

For medical referrals and minor illnesses, pharmacists dispense advice and sell medications: look for green neon crosses.

Doctor visits cost about €25.

Emergency contraception is available by prescription. Condoms (préservatifs) are commonly available.

Insurance

Medical Insurance

EU citizens and those from Switzerland, Iceland, Norway and Liechtenstein are covered for emergencies by the European Health Insurance Card (EHIC), but not for nonemergencies or repatriation. Every family member needs a card. Seek care from state providers (conventionnés); private healthcare is not covered. Pay directly and keep receipts for reimbursement.

If you're not from Europe you need to determine whether your country has reciprocity with France for free medical care. If you need health insurance, strongly consider a policy that covers worst-case scenarios, including emergency medical evacuation. Determine in advance if your insurance pays directly for overseas expenditures or reimburses you later (it's probably the latter). Keep all documentation.

Travel Insurance

We recommend travel insurance covering theft, loss and medical problems. Some policies exclude dangerous activities, including diving, motorcycling and mountaineering. Read the fine print.

Worldwide travel insurance is available at www.lonelyplanet.com/travel-insurance. You can buy, extend and claim online, even if you’re already on the road.

Purchasing airline tickets with a credit card may provide limited travel-accident insurance. Ask your credit-card company.

Internet Access

Wi-fi (pronounced wee-fee) is offered by many hotels, cafes and some tourist offices. If you need the password, ask for le code.

Wi-fi is also available in many public spaces; check coverage at www.journaldunet.com/wifi.

3G is widely available in urban areas, but check roaming rates with your provider before you switch it on.

Internet cafes provide access for €4 to €6 per hour but are becoming rare.

Language Courses

The government site www.diplomatie.gouv.fr (under ‘Francophony’) and www.europa-pages.com/france list language schools.

The Centre Méditerranéen d’Études (%04 93 78 21 59; www.centremed.monte-carlo.mc; chemin des Oliviers, Cap d’Ail) is a Côte d’Azur language school, operating since 1952.

Legal Matters

French police have wide powers of search and seizure, and may demand identification at any time, regardless of 'probable cause'.

Foreigners must be able to prove immigration status (eg passport, visa, residency permit).

Verbally (or physically) abusing police officers carries hefty fines, even imprisonment.

You may refuse to sign a police statement, and you have the right to request a copy.

Those arrested are innocent until proven guilty but may be held until trial. The website www.service-public.fr details rights.

French police are ultra-strict with security. Never leave baggage unattended at airports or stations: suspicious objects may be destroyed.

French law makes no distinction between ‘hard’ and ‘soft’ drugs.

The penalty for personal use of stupéfiants (including cannabis) can be a one-year jail sentence and a €3750 fine but may be lessened to a stern talking-to or compulsory rehab.

Public drunkenness (ivresse) is punishable by a €150 fine. It's illegal to drive with a blood-alcohol concentration (BAC) over 0.05%. Police conduct random breathalyser tests.

Smoking is illegal in public interiors, including restaurants and bars.

PRACTICALITIES

Weights & Measures France uses the metric system. To convert kilometres to miles, multiply by 0.6; miles to kilometres, multiply by 1.6.

Electricity Plugs have two round pins; electrical current is 220V/50Hz AC.

Radio Regional news and chat airs in English on Monte Carlo–based Riviera Radio (www.rivieraradio.mc).

Newspapers French-language regional newspapers are Nice Matin (www.nicematin.fr) and La Provence (www.laprovence.com). English-language regional newspapers are the Riviera Reporter (www.riviera-reporter.com) and Riviera Times (www.rivieratimes.com).

TV French TV networks broadcast a second audio program in the program's original language, often English: fiddle with your remote.

Maps

Driving, cycling and hiking maps are widely available at maisons de la presse (newsagencies), papeteries (stationery shops), tourist offices, bookshops and petrol stations. Quality maps cost about €7 or €8. The website http://fr.mappy.com has online maps and a journey planner, including tolls and petrol costs.

Free street plans (maps) distributed by tourist offices range from superb to useless.

FFRPTOURIST INFORMATION

(www.ffrandonnee.fr)

Topographic hiking maps.

Institut Géographique NationalTOURIST INFORMATION

(IGN; www.ign.fr)

France's definitive map publishers, great for hiking and cycling.

MichelinTOURIST INFORMATION

(sales www.michelin-boutique.com)

Brilliant atlases and driving maps.

Money

The euro (€) is the only legal tender in France and Monaco. To track rates and find local exchange bureaux, see http://travelmoney.moneysavingexpert.com.

ATMs

ATMs (distributeurs automatiques de billets or points d’argent) are the easiest means of obtaining cash, but banks charge foreign-transaction fees (usually 2% to 3%), plus a per-use ATM charge. Check with your bank. Cirrus and Maestro networks are common.

Credit & Debit Cards

Credit and debit cards are widely accepted, although some restaurants and B&Bs may only accept cash.

North American cards with magnetic stripes don't work on (certain) autoroutes or at unattended 24-hour petrol stations – which can leave you in a sticky situation if you have no alternative method of payment.

Nearly everywhere requires a card with a chip and PIN. Notify your bank/card provider before departure to avoid a block on your account.

Visa (Carte Bleue – or CB – in France) and MasterCard (Access or Eurocard) are common. American Express is less so, but Amex offices provide exchange and travel services.

Credit cards generally incur a more favourable exchange rate than debit cards, but it depends entirely on your bank/credit-card provider.

Most credit cards charge a foreign-transaction fee (generally around 2.5%), but again it depends on the provider. Some credit cards charge a 0% fee for overseas use.

Consider getting a prepaid currency card, which you can load with currency before departure. You won't incur a foreign-transaction fee, and if it's lost you just cancel the card and order a replacement. Most importantly, you don't lose the funds.

Money Changers

Banks usually charge stiff €3 to €5 fees per foreign-currency transaction – if they change money at all.

Bureaux de change (exchange bureaux) are faster and easier, are open longer and usually have better rates.

Some post offices exchange travellers cheques and banknotes but charge a €5 commission for cash; most won’t take US$100 bills.

TIPPING

By law, restaurants and cafes are service compris (15% service included), thus there's no need to leave a pourboire (tip). If you're satisfied with the service, it's customary to leave a euro or two on the table.

Bar: round to nearest euro

Hotel housekeepers: €1 to €1.50 per day

Porters: €1 to €1.50 per bag

Restaurants: generally 2% to 5%; 10% if exceptional

Taxi: 10% to 15%

Toilet attendant: €0.20 to €0.50

Tour guide: €1 to €2 per person

Travellers Cheques

Secure and fee free, but not widely accepted. Must be converted at exchange bureaux, and rates aren't always favourable.

Opening Hours

French business hours are regulated by a number of laws, including the 35-hour working week. We generally list high-season hours.

Most businesses close over lunch, usually between noon and 2pm.

French law requires that most businesses close on Sunday, with the exception of grocery stores, boulangeries (bakeries), florists and tourist businesses.

Restaurants usually close at least one or two days a week.

Most museums are closed on Monday or Tuesday.

In rural Provence, most businesses open only Pâques à la Toussaint (Easter to All Saints’ Day, 1 November).

STANDARD HOURS

Banks 9am to noon and 2pm to 5pm Monday to Friday or Tuesday to Saturday

Bars 7pm to 1am Monday to Saturday

Cafes 7am or 8am to 10pm or 11pm Monday to Saturday

Clubs 10pm to 3am, 4am or 5am Thursday to Saturday

Post offices 8.30am or 9am to 5pm or 6pm Monday to Friday, 8am to noon Saturday

Restaurants Lunch noon to 2.30pm, dinner 7pm to 11pm

Shops 9am or 10am to 6.30pm or 7pm Monday or Tuesday to Saturday

Supermarkets 8.30am to 7pm Monday to Saturday, 8.30am to 12.30pm Sunday

Public Holidays

French Public Holidays

The following jours fériés (public holidays) are observed in France:

New Year’s Day (Jour de l’An) 1 January

Easter Sunday & Monday (Pâques & lundi de Pâques) Late March/April

May Day (Fête du Travail) 1 May

Victoire 1945 8 May – celebrates the Allied victory that ended WWII

Ascension Thursday (L’Ascension) May – the 40th day after Easter

Pentecost/Whit Sunday & Whit Monday (Pentecôte & lundi de Pentecôte) Mid-May to mid-June – celebrated 7th Sunday after Easter

Bastille Day/National Day (Fête Nationale) 14 July

Assumption Day (L’Assomption) 15 August

All Saints’ Day (La Toussaint) 1 November

Remembrance Day (L’onze Novembre) 11 November – marks WWI armistice

Christmas (Noël) 25 December

Monégasque Public Holidays

Monaco shares the same holidays, except 8 May, 14 July and 11 November. Additionally:

Feast of Ste-Dévote 27 January – Monaco's saint's day

Corpus Christi June – three weeks after Ascension

National Day (Fête Nationale) 19 November

Immaculate Conception 8 December

Safe Travel

France is a safe destination. Petty theft and burglary are the main problems, but assault is rare.

France's hunting season runs September to February. Warning signs on trees and fences read ‘chasseurs’ or ‘chasse gardée’. Wear bright colours when hiking.

Beaches & Rivers

Watch for pale-purple jellyfish on beaches.

Major rivers are connected to hydroelectric stations and flood suddenly when dams open. Ask tourist offices about l'ouverture des barrages (opening dams), commonplace in summer.

Swimming is prohibited in reservoirs with unstable banks (eg Lac de Ste-Croix, southwest of Gorges du Verdon; Lac de Castillon; and Lac de Chaudanne, northeast of the gorges). Sailing, windsurfing and canoeing are restricted to flagged areas.

Extreme Weather

Thunderstorms – sometimes violent and dangerous – are common August and September. Check weather (la météo) before embarking on hikes. Carry pocket rain gear and extra layers to prevent hypothermia. Year-round, mistral winds can be maddening.

Forest Fires

In fire emergency, dial 18. Forest fires are common July and August, and spread incredibly fast. July to mid-September, high-risk trails close. Never walk in closed zones.

Forests are criss-crossed by fire roads. Signposted DFCI (Défense de la Forêt Centre l'Incendie; forest-fire defence team) tracks are closed to motorists but open to walkers.

Campfires are forbidden. Barbecues are forbidden in many areas in July and August.

Theft

Theft from luggage, pockets, cars, trains and launderettes is widespread, particularly along the Côte d’Azur. Beware pickpockets in crowded tourist areas.

Keep close watch on bags, especially in markets, at train and bus stations, at outdoor cafes, on beaches and during overnight train rides (lock your compartment door).

Break-ins to unattended vehicles are a big problem – leave nothing of value inside.

If travelling on trains, don't leave laptops, tablets and smartphones on display if you go to the toilet or fall asleep. Try not to stare at your smartphone in train stations; conceal it when not using it.

If you're worried, lock your passport in your safe, or ask at reception to use the hotel's safe if your room doesn't have one.

Bring photocopies of important documents such as passports, driving licences and travel-insurance policies; they're much easier to replace if you have copies.

Carry your passport number (or a photocopy) and your driver's licence for ID.

When swimming, don't leave valuables unattended – you might have to take turns. On the Prado beaches in Marseille, consider placing valuables in one of the free (staffed) lockers.

Aggressive theft from cars stopped at red lights is an occasional problem in Marseille, Nice and larger cities; keep doors locked and windows up when idling.

Common cons: thief finds a gold ring in your path, or lays a newspaper on your restaurant table, or approaches to ask if you speak English. Ignore children with clipboards, especially those playing deaf.

Telephone

Mobile Phones

French mobile-phone numbers begin with 06 or 07.

France uses GSM 900/1800, compatible with Europe and Australia but incompatible with North American GSM 1900 or the Japanese system, unless you have a tri-band or quad-band phone.

France's main carriers are Bouygues (www.bouyguestelecom.fr), Orange (www.orange.fr) and SFR (www.sfr.com).

For European travellers, roaming charges have recently come down thanks to EU regulation, but it's still likely to be more expensive than back home. You'll probably receive a text message detailing rates when you first switch on your phone. SMS texting is always cheaper than making a call.

Some providers offer call and data packages that cover travel in other European countries; check before you leave.

For non-European travellers, it may be cheaper to buy a French SIM card or a French pay-as-you-go handset than to use your own phone. If so, buy when you land in Paris, where more salespeople speak English than in Provence.

Dialing Codes

Calling France (or Monaco) from home Dial your country's international-access code, then 33 for France (or 377 for Monaco), then the 10-digit number, without the initial zero.

Calling abroad from France Dial 00 for international access, then the country code (1 for US, 44 UK, 16 Australia), then the area code and local number, minus any initial zeros.

Hotel calls Very expensive and unregulated, usually €0.30 per minute locally.

Phonecards & Pay Phones

For instructions on using public phones, push the button engraved with dual flags.

Public phones accept two kinds of télécartes (phonecards): cartes à la puce (magnetic-chip cards), issued by Orange for €8 or €15; and cartes à code (cards with free access number and prepaid scratch-off code). Find cards at post offices, tabacs (tobacconists) and newsagents.

Phonecards with codes have cheaper rates than Orange.

Useful Numbers & Codes

Emergency numbers Free from pay phones.

International access code 00

France country code 33

Monaco country code 377

Directory enquiries 12 or 11 87 12 (€1, plus €0.23 per minute). Not all operators speak English. For help in English with all Orange services, see http://www.orange.com/en/home or call 09 69 36 39 00.

International directory enquiries 11 87 00

Time

France uses the 24-hour military clock (eg 20.00 is 8pm) and Central European Time, one hour ahead of GMT/UTC. During daylight saving (last Sunday in March to last Sunday in October), France is two hours ahead of GMT/UTC.

Toilets

Public toilets are signposted toilettes or WC. In towns, look for public toilets near the town hall, port, public squares or parking areas.

Mechanical, coin-operated toilets are free or €0.20. (Never dodge in after the previous user or you'll be doused with disinfectant!) If you exceed 15 minutes, the door automatically opens. Green means libre (available); red occupé (busy).

A few older cafes and petrol stations still have hole-in-the-floor Turkish-style toilets. Provided you hover, they're hygienic, but stand clear when flushing!

The French are used to unisex facilities.

Tourist Information

Almost every city, town and village has an office de tourisme (tourist office, occasionally still known as a syndicat d'initiative in some areas). They're usually well run and can provide loads of information on accommodation, activities and places to visit. In larger towns and cities, most offices have English-speaking staff.

Travellers with Disabilities

France is slowly improving access for travellers with disabilities (visiteurs handicapés), but inevitably there are problems – narrow streets, cobbles, a lack of curb ramps and a lack of elevators in old hotels, to name a few.

Check carefully whether your hotel or B&B has an elevator and is fully accessible – steps and small bathrooms are all common pitfalls.

Most parking areas have dedicated sections for drivers with disabilities (bring your parking placard).

Some beaches are wheelchair accessible – flagged handiplages on city maps – in Cannes, Marseille, Nice, Hyères, Ste-Maxime and Monaco.

Michelin’s Guide Rouge and Gîtes de France (www.gites-de-france-paca.com) flag wheelchair access in their listings.

Most SNCF trains are wheelchair accessible; major train stations will have staff who can assist you as you get on board.

Detailed information is available on the SNCF Accessibilité website (www.accessibilite.sncf.com).

Visas

For up-to-date information on visa requirements see www.diplomatie.gouv.fr.

EU nationals and citizens of Iceland, Norway and Switzerland need only passport or national identity card to enter France and work. However, nationals of the 12 countries that joined the EU in 2004 and 2007 are subject to residency and work limitations.

Citizens of Australia, Canada, Israel, Hong Kong, Japan, Malaysia, New Zealand, Singapore, the USA and many Latin American countries need no tourist visa for stays shorter than 90 days.

Others must apply for a Schengen visa, allowing unlimited travel throughout 26 European countries for a 90-day period. Apply at the consulate of the country that's your first port of entry or that will be your principal destination. Among other particulars, you must provide proof of travel and repatriation insurance, and prove you have sufficient money to support yourself.

Tourist visas cannot be extended, except in emergencies (such as medical problems). Leave before your visa expires and reapply from outside France.