Nice, Monaco & Menton

Nice, Monaco & Menton Highlights

Nice

Arriere-Pays Nicois

Peillon

Peille

The Three Corniches

Monaco

Roquebrune-Cap-Martin

Menton & Around

Nice, Monaco & Menton

Why Go?

There may only be 30km between Nice and Menton, but this short stretch of coastline packs a powerful punch. Nice, with its atmospheric old town, rich architectural heritage (baroque, belle époque, contemporary), raging nightlife, alfresco cafe life and culinary excellence is a natural queen of the Riviera. Road-tripping east, the Grande and Moyenne Corniches (coastal roads) mesmerise with panoramic views of the Mediterranean, while the Corniche Inférieure laces the shore with its sandy beaches, pretty fishing villages and fabulous belle époque follies. Monaco elicits mixed reactions: the world's second-smallest country is a concrete jungle with a glitzy port, its own monarchy, throngs of VIPs and high-octane casino glamour. Yet it's this very razzmatazz that enthralls, fascinates and entertains. And when you want to make a run for the hills, what better place than the Arrière-Pays Niçois, an unspoilt and tranquil hinterland of stark beauty.

Driving Distances (km)

Best Places to Eat

A Olive et Artichaut

A Café de la Fontaine

A Le Mirazur

A Marché de la Condamine

A Le Beauséjour

Best Places to Stay

A Nice Garden Hôtel

A Hôtel Lemon

A Hôtel Victoria

A Hôtel Welcome

A L'Hostellerie Jérôme

Nice, Monaco & Menton Highlights

1 Eat well, drink well and enjoy the iconic, silky smooth Promenade des Anglais in the queen of the Riviera, Nice.

2 Take in huge, jaw-dropping views of the Med on a road trip along the hair-raising Grande Corniche.

3 Feast on the ancient charm of backstreet Villefranche-sur-Mer, where you can lunch on the local fisher's catch at Les Garçons.

4 Hit Monaco to watch the changing of the palace guard, visit the Musée Océanographique and soak up the glitz and glamour of Riviera high life in Monte Carlo.

5 Walk from Cap d'Ail to Menton along the shores of the brilliantly blue Mediterranean

6 Discover Cocteau's genius in Menton's Musée Jean Cocteau Collection Séverin Wunderman.

7 Trail architect Le Corbusier in medieval Roquebrune and along the beautiful shoreline of Cap Martin.

Nice

Pop pop 343,000

With its unusual mix of real-city grit, old-world opulence, year-round sunshine and exceptional location, Nice’s appeal is universal. Everyone from backpackers to romance-seeking couples and families love sitting at a cafe on cours Saleya in Vieux Nice, on a bench on the legendary Promenade des Anglais or on a smooth pebble beach for an epic sunset. Eating options are stupendous, the nightlife buzzes and the local arts scene is thriving. You could happily spend a week here and still be hungry for more.

Nice

1Top Sights

1Musée d'Art Moderne et d'Art ContemporainF4

2Musée MassénaA6

3Parc du ChâteauG6

4Promenade des AnglaisA6

5Vieux NiceH2

1Sights

6Cathédrale Ste-RéparateH1

7Chapelle de la MiséricordeG2

8Musée National Marc ChagallD1

9Palais LascarisH1

2Activities, Courses & Tours

10L'OpenTourC6

11Mobilboard NiceC6

12Trans Côte d'AzurH6

4Sleeping

13ExedraC4

14Hôtel Belle MeunièreB3

15Hôtel La PérouseG7

16Hôtel SolaraC6

17Hôtel Villa RivoliA6

18Hôtel WilsonD5

19Hôtel WindsorB5

20Nice Garden HôtelB5

21Villa La TourF5

22Villa Saint-Exupéry Beach HostelD5

5Eating

23Carré LlorcaF1

24Chez PipoH4

25Chez René SoccaG4

26Déli BoG4

27FenocchioH2

28FenocchioH1

29JanH5

30La MerendaF1

31La RossettisserieH1

32Le Bistrot d'AntoineH2

33Le ChanteclerA6

34Le Comptoir du MarchéG1

35Le Luna RossaD5

36L'EscalinadaG5

37Lou Pilha LevaF5

38L'UzineH5

39Olive et ArtichautH1

40VinivoreH5

6Drinking & Nightlife

41ArkH2

42BaR'OcH4

43Comptoir Central ÉlectriqueH4

44El MerkadoE6

45La ShoungaG7

46L'Abat-JourH1

47Le SixF2

48Les Distilleries IdéalesH2

49Les Trois DiablesG2

50Little Rest'OG4

51Ma Nolan'sF2

3Entertainment

52Chez Wayne'sG1

53Cinéma RialtoA6

54Le VolumeF4

55Opéra de NiceE6

7Shopping

56Cave de la TourF4

57Cours Saleya MarketsH2

58Fish MarketF5

59Flea MarketG2

60Flower MarketG2

61Food MarketG2

62Moulin à Huile d'Olive AlziariD6

63Nice ÉtoileC4

64Pâtisserie Henri Auer ConfiserieE6

65Pâtisserie LACG2

1Sights

oVieux NiceHISTORIC QUARTER

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

Nice’s old town, an atmospheric mellow-hued rabbit warren, has scarcely changed since the 1700s, and getting lost in it is a highlight. Cue cours Saleya: this joyous, thriving market square hosts a well-known flower market ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cours Saleya; h6am-5.30pm Tue-Sat, to 1.30pm Sun) and a thriving food market ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cours Saleya; h6am-1.30pm Tue-Sun), a staple of local life. A flea market ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cours Saleya; h8am-5pm Mon) takes over on Monday, and the overflow from bars and restaurants seems to be a permanent fixture.

North of cours Saleya spills the rest of Vieux Nice, its dark narrow lanes crammed with delis, small food shops, boutiques and packed bars. A fish market ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; place St-François; h6am-1pm Tue-Sun) fills place St-François.

Baroque aficionados will adore architectural gems Cathédrale Ste-Réparate ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; place Rossetti), honouring the city’s patron saint; exuberant 1740 Chapelle de la Miséricorde ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cours Saleya); and 17th-century Palais Lascaris ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 15 rue Droite; guided visit €5; h10am-6pm Wed-Mon, guided tour 3pm Fri), a frescoed orgy of Flemish tapestries, faience (tin-glazed earthenware), gloomy religious paintings and 18th-century pharmacy.

oPromenade des AnglaisARCHITECTURE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

Palm-lined Promenade des Anglais, paid for by Nice’s English colony in 1822, is a fine stage for a stroll and a flop on one of its iconic sea-blue chairs, immortalised by Niçoise sculptor Sabine Géraudie with her strikingly giant seafront sculpture La Chaise de SAB (2014). Historic highlights include the magnificent 1912 Hôtel Negresco ( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 93 16 64 00; www.hotel-negresco-nice.com; 37 promenade des Anglais) and art deco 1929 Palais de la Méditerranée ( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 92 14 77 30; www.lepalaisdelamediterranee.com; 13-15 promenade des Anglais; d €345; aiWsc). In 2015 the city of Nice submitted the Promenade des Anglais as a candidate for Unesco World Heritage status.

The promenade follows the complete 4km sweep of the Baie des Anges with a cycle and skating lane. For a fantastic family outing, rent inline skates, skateboards, scooters and bikes at Roller Station ( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 93 62 99 05; www.roller-station.fr; 49 quai des États-Unis; skates, boards & scooters per hour/day €5/8, bicycles €5/10; h9am-11pm Jul & Aug, 10am-8pm Apr-Jun & Sep, 10am-6pm Oct-Mar) to whizz along the silky-smooth Prom; allow for an extra €1/2 per hour/day for protective gear (helmet and pads). You’ll need some ID as a deposit. Or cruise along effortlessly on two wheels with an electric Segway from Mobilboard Nice.

oParc du ChâteauGARDEN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h9am-8pm Jun-Aug, 9am-7pm Apr, May & Sep, 10am-6pm Oct-Mar)

This park, on a rocky outcrop above the old town, rewards with a cinematic panorama of Nice, the Baie des Anges and the port. Only the 16th-century Tour Bellanda remains of the 12th-century castle, razed by Louis XIV in 1706. The Cascade Donjon, an 18th-century artificial waterfall with viewing platform, and children's playground, make it popular for picnics. Hike up from the seafront or ride the free lift (Ascenseur du Château; GOOGLE MAP ; rue des Ponchettes; h9am-8pm Jun-Aug, 9am-7pm Apr, May & Sep, 10am-6pm Oct-Mar) beneath Tour Bellanda.

Musée MatisseART MUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 93 81 08 08; www.musee-matisse-nice.org; 164 av des Arènes de Cimiez; h10am-6pm Wed-Mon)F

This museum, 2km north in the leafy Cimiez quarter, houses a fascinating assortment of works by Matisse, including oil paintings, drawings, sculptures, tapestries and Matisse’s famous paper cut-outs. The permanent collection is displayed in a red-ochre 17th-century Genoese villa in an olive grove. Temporary exhibitions are in the futuristic basement building. Matisse is buried in the Monastère de Cimiez cemetery, across the park from the museum.

In the 1940s Matisse lived in the monumental Régina building at 71 bd de Cimiez. Originally Queen Victoria’s wintering palace, it had been converted into apartments and Matisse had two that he used as studio and home (where he died in 1954).

Musée National Marc ChagallART MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.musee-chagall.fr; 4 av Dr Ménard; adult/child €8/6; h10am-6pm Wed-Mon May-Oct, to 5pm Nov-Apr)

This small museum houses the largest public collection of works by Belarusian painter Marc Chagall (1887–1985). The main hall displays 12 huge interpretations (1954–67) of stories from Genesis and Exodus. In an antechamber, an unusual mosaic of Elijah in his fiery chariot, surrounded by signs of the zodiac, is viewed through a plate-glass window and reflected in a small pond. From the city centre, allow about 20 minutes to walk to the museum (signposted from av de l’Olivetto).

oMusée MassénaMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 65 rue de France; adult/child €6/free; h10am-6pm Wed-Mon)

This marvellous Italianate neoclassical villa (1898) retraces Riviera history from the late 18th century to WWII. It’s a fascinating journey, with a roll call of monarchs, a succession of nationalities (British, Russians, Americans), the advent of tourism, the prominence of the carnival and more. History is told through a mix of furniture, vintage posters, photographs and paintings. The city of Nice still uses the ground floor for official occasions, so it can sometimes close at short notice

oMusée d’Art Moderne et d’Art ContemporainART MUSEUM

(MAMAC; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.mamac-nice.org; place Yves Klein; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun)F

European and American avant-garde works from the 1950s to the present are the focus of this museum. Highlights include many works by Christo and Nice's New Realists: Niki de Saint Phalle, César, Arman and Yves Klein. The building’s rooftop also works as an exhibition space (with panoramas of Nice to boot).

Port LympiaARCHITECTURE

Nice’s Port Lympia, with its beautiful Venetian-coloured buildings, is often overlooked, but a stroll along its quays is lovely, as is the walk to get here: come down through Parc du Château or follow quai Rauba Capeu, where a massive war memorial hewn from the rock commemorates the 4000 Niçois who died in both world wars.

Cathédrale Orthodoxe Russe St-NicolasCATHEDRAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.cathedrale-russe-nice.fr; av Nicolas II; h9am-noon & 2-6pm)

Built between 1902 and 1912 to provide a big enough church for the growing Russian community, this cathedral, with its colourful onion domes and rich, ornate interior, is the biggest Russian Orthodox church outside Russia. The cathedral boasts dozens of intricate icons – unfortunately, there is very little in the way of explanation for visitors.

TTours

Trans Côte d’AzurBOAT TOUR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.trans-cote-azur.com; quai Lunel; hApr-Oct)

Trans Côte d’Azur runs one-hour boat cruises along the Baie des Anges and Rade de Villefranche (adult/child €17.50/12) April to October. Mid-June to mid-September it sails to Île Ste-Marguerite (€39/29, one hour), St-Tropez (€64/49, 2½ hours), Monaco (€37/28.50, 45 minutes) and Cannes (€39/29, one hour).

L’OpenTourBUS TOUR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.nice.opentour.com; opposite 109 quai des Etats-Unis; 1-/2-day pass adult €22/25, child €8)

With headphone commentary in several languages, the open-topped bus tours (1½ hours) give you a good overview of Nice. Hop on or off at any one of 14 stops.

Mobilboard NiceSEGWAY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 93 80 21 27; www.mobilboard.com/nice-promenade; 2 rue Halévy; 30min initiation €17, 1hr/2hr tour €30/50)

For an effortless cruise along Promenade des Anglais, hop aboard an electric Segway. Rental includes a 15-minute lesson on how to ride the two-wheeled, battery-powered 'vehicle', protective helmet and audioguide. The 15km ride to neighbouring Villefranche-sur-Mer is a great trip (€75).

zFestivals & Events

Carnaval de NiceCARNIVAL

(www.nicecarnaval.com; hFeb)

Held around Mardi Gras (Shrove Tuesday) since 1294. Highlights include the batailles de fleurs (battles of flowers), and the ceremonial burning of the carnival king on Promenade des Anglais, followed by a fireworks display.

Nice Jazz FestivalMUSIC FESTIVAL

(www.nicejazzfestival.fr; hJul)

France’s original jazz festival has taken on a life of its own, with fringe concerts popping up all around the venue, from Vieux Nice to Massena and the shopping streets around Rue de France.

4Sleeping

Accommodation is excellent and caters to all budgets. Hotels charge substantially more during the Monaco Grand Prix. Book well in advance in summer.

Hôtel SolaraHOTEL€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 93 88 09 96; www.hotelsolara.com; 7 rue de France; s/d/tr/q €65/85/120/150, s/d with balcony €75/115; hreception 8am-9pm; aW)

Were it not for its fantastic location on pedestrian rue de France and the sensational terraces that half the rooms boast, we’d say the Solara was an honest-to-goodness budget-friendly choice with impeccable rooms. But with those perks (and did we mention the small fridges in each room for that evening rosé?), it is budget gold. Breakfast €8.

Hôtel WilsonHOTEL€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 93 85 47 79; www.hotel-wilson-nice.com; 39 rue de l’Hôtel des Postes; s/d €55/69, with shared bathroom €47/59; W)

Many years of travelling, an experimental nature and exquisite taste have turned Jean-Marie’s rambling 3rd-floor flat into a compelling place to stay. The 16 rooms are individual with carefully crafted decor; the cheapest share bathrooms. Unusually, guests can smoke in some rooms, so ask to see a couple if you're concerned about the smell. Breakfast €6.50.

Hôtel Belle MeunièreHOTEL, HOSTEL€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 93 88 66 15; www.bellemeuniere.com; 21 av Durante; dm €25-30, d/tr/q 84/99/132 ; Wc)

This hybrid hotel-hostel, in a 19th-century mansion by the train station, understands it's the little things in life that count: free beach mats to borrow, free parking, left-luggage service (€5 per day, available for nonguests too). Rooms are very basic and a tad tatty; if you want the only room with a balcony, ask for No 9 (a quad). Breakfast €6.

Villa Saint-Exupéry Beach HostelHOSTEL€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 93 16 13 45; www.villahostels.com; 6 rue Sacha Guitry; dm €40-50, d/tr €120/150; aiW)

This hostel understands what independent travellers need: facilities galore (bar, kitchen, chill-out lounge, free computers, gym, games room etc), friendly multilingual staff, tons of advice on Nice and the Riviera, and budget-friendly prices. The three- to 14-bed dorms, all with en suite bathrooms, are drab, but for the time you’ll spend in them…

oNice PebblesSELF-CONTAINED€€

(%04 97 20 27 30; www.nicepebbles.com; 1-/2-/3-bedroom apt from €110/190/330; aW)

Nice Pebbles’ concept is simple: offering the quality of a four-star boutique hotel in holiday flats. Apartments and villas (one to five bedrooms) are gorgeous and equipped to high standards. Guests can expect wi-fi, flat-screen TV, DVD players, fully equipped kitchens and linen bedding in most flats, and in some cases a swimming pool, balcony or terrace etc.

oNice Garden HôtelBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 93 87 35 62; www.nicegardenhotel.com; 11 rue du Congrès; s/d/tr from €75/90/138; hreception 8am-9pm; aW)

Behind heavy iron gates hides this gem: nine beautifully appointed rooms – the work of the exquisite Marion – are a subtle blend of old and new and overlook a delightful garden with a glorious orange tree. Amazingly, all this charm and peacefulness is just two blocks from the promenade. Breakfast €9.

Hôtel Villa RivoliBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 93 88 80 25; www.villa-rivoli.com; 10 rue de Rivoli; s/d/q from €95/175/198; aW)

Built in 1890, this stately villa feels like your own pied-à-terre in the heart of Nice. A marble staircase leads to spotlessly clean character-rich rooms, some with fabric-covered walls, gilt-edged mirrors and marble mantelpieces. Breakfast €12, parking €18.

Villa La TourBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 93 80 08 15; www.villa-la-tour.com; 4 rue de la Tour; d €70-172; aW)

This old-town favourite has 17 lovely rooms, each individually decorated to evoke a different artist – Niki de Saint Phalle, Vaco, Klein and so forth. Riviera history buffs will appreciate the Queen Victoria room. A diminutive flower-decked roof terrace is complemented by a street terrace, ideal for watching Vieux Nice go by. Breakfast €12.50.

Hôtel WindsorBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 93 88 59 35; www.hotelwindsornice.com; 11 rue Dalpozzo; d €97-215; aiWs)

High-profile artists have decorated several rooms at the Windsor with bold, sometimes unsettling designs. Traditional rooms are more soothing yet still nod to the arts with hand-painted murals. Breakfast €14, parking €13 to €19.

oHôtel La PérouseBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 93 62 34 63; www.hotel-la-perouse.com; 11 quai Rauba Capeu; d from €330; aiWs)

Built into the rock cliff next to Tour Bellanda, La Pérouse evokes the spirit of a genteel villa. Lower-floor rooms face a lemon-tree-shaded courtyard and pool; upper-floor rooms have magnificent sea vistas. Smart accent colours add flair to the traditional decor. Best rates are online. Breakfast €18.

ExedraDESIGN HOTEL€€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 97 03 89 89; www.boscolohotels.com; 12 bd Victor Hugo; d from €370; aiWs)

This historic, belle époque mansion squirrels away one of Nice’s sexiest, most contemporary establishments. Everything from the furniture and fabrics to bathrooms, art works and parquetry are brilliant white with the odd hint of ivory. The icing on this dazzling five-star (white) cake is a super-chic spa and pool.

5Eating

Booking is essential for weekend meals, particularly during the busy summer season. To lunch with locals, grab a pew in the midday sun on one of the many place Garibaldi cafe terraces.

oChez PipoNIçOIS€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 93 55 88 82; 13 rue Bavastro; socca €2.70; h11.30am-2.30pm & 5.30-11pm Tue-Sun)

This bistro, with its inviting ginger-toned terrace, has cooked up some of Nice's best socca (savoury, chickpea-flour pancake) since 1923. For gourmets seeking something more refined than stand-up street food, Pipo is sit-down perfect.

oLa RossettisserieFRENCH€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 93 76 18 80; www.larossettisserie.com; 8 rue Mascoïnat; mains €14.50-€15.50; hnoon-2pm & 7.30-10pm Mon-Sat)

The Rossettisserie – a lovely play of words on rotisserie (roast house) and Rossetti (the name of the nearby square) – is a retro grocery-style space known for its succulent roast meat. Pair your choice of beef, chicken, veal or lamb with heavenly homemade mash or sautéed potatoes and ratatouille or salad. The vaulted dining room in the basement is stunning.

Déli BoCAFE, BISTRO€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 93 56 33 04; 5 rue Bonaparte; mains €12-20; h7am-8pm)

Packed inside and out with knowing Niçois, this hybrid coffee shop-restaurant gets everything superbly right: a short but perfectly executed menu of chic home cuisine including several gutsy meal-sized salads, exquisite pâtisserie (cakes) and a relaxed urban vibe. Find it on one of Nice's most happening streets, just north of Port Lympia.

La MerendaNIçOIS€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.lamerenda.net; 4 rue Raoul Bosio; mains €14-16; hnoon-2pm & 7-10pm Mon-Fri)

Simple, solid Niçois cuisine – stockfish, calf tripe à la Niçoise with panisse (chunky, pan-fried sticks of chickpea-flour batter) and the like – by former Michelin-starred chef Dominique Le Stanc draws the crowds to this pocket-sized bistro where diners rub shoulders literally. The tiny open kitchen stands proud at the back of the room, and the equally small menu is chalked on the board. No credit cards.

Le Comptoir du MarchéMODERN FRENCH€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 93 13 45 01; 8 rue du Marché; mains €13-18; hnoon-2.30pm & 7-10.30pm Tue-Sat)

With its vintage kitchen decor and great-value prices, the Comptoir does predictably well. There are five or six daily mains, scribbled on a chalkboard. The cuisine is a modern twist on traditional French recipes, with lots of offals and staples like lentil stews, confit rabbit and even os à moelle (bone marrow).

oOlive et ArtichautPROVENçAL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 89 14 97 51; www.oliveartichaut.com; 6 rue Ste-Réparate; mains €16-25; hnoon-2pm & 7.30-10pm Wed-Sun)

Inspired by the market and his city's rich culinary roots, young Niçois chef Thomas Hubert is rapidily carving out a grand name for himself at Olive and Artichoke. The kitchen is open, the decor is contemporary design with a hip splash of vintage, and the cuisine is a magnificent reworking of local ingredients grown by small producers and farmers. Reserve or hope for a bar stool au comptoir (at the bar).

oVinivoreBISTRO€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 93 14 68 09; www.vinivore.fr; 10 rue Lascaris; mains €16-23; hnoon-2pm & 7.30-10pm Tue-Fri, 7.30-10pm Sat)

The name gives it away. Carnivores with a penchant for fine vin (wine), this remarkable little bistro is for you. Among the 200 different wines – many organic and by small producers – are the perfect partners for chef Chun Wong's two or three market-driven dishes chalked on the blackboad. His lunchtime plat du jour (dish of the day; €11.50) is always excellent value.

L'UzineMEDITERRANEAN€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 93 56 42 39; 18 rue François Guisol; mains €14-20; h11am-11pm Tue-Sat)

This relaxed restaurant lures a young, vibrant crowd thanks to its large buzzing pavement terrace in the trendy Port Lympia area and top-quality Mediterranean cuisine. Throw live jazz on weekend evenings into the mix and the result is an address not to be missed.

Carré LlorcaBISTRO€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 93 92 95 86; www.carrellorca.com; 3 rue de la Préfecture; mains €18-28; hnoon-10.30pm Mon-Sat)

The menu at this contemporary bistro with urban spirit is signed off by Michelin-starred chef Jean-Michel Llorca. Neutral hues add an understated elegance to the clean-cut space, and the cuisine is Mediterranean with a generous dash of Niçois – lots of cooking à la plancha (grilled). The pulpe (octopus) served with new potatoes and Niçois sauces is delicious.

L’EscalinadaNIçOIS€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 93 62 11 71; 22 rue Pairolière; mains €20-25; hnoon-2.30pm & 7-11pm)

L'Escalinada has been brilliant for grassroots Niçois cuisine for the last half-century: petits farcis (stuffed vegetables), homemade gnocchi with tasty daube (Provençal beef stew) and Marsala veal stew see tables packed jaw to jowl on a tiny pavement terrace in Vieux Nice. The complimentary aperitif is a welcome touch. No credit cards.

Le Bistrot d’AntoineMODERN FRENCH€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 93 85 29 57; 27 rue de la Préfecture; menus €25 & €43, mains €14-25; hnoon-2pm & 7-10pm Tue-Sat)

What’s so surprising about this super brasserie is how unfazed it is by its incredible success: it is full every night (booking essential), yet the ‘bistro chic’ cuisine never wavers, the staff are cool as a cucumber, the atmosphere is reliably jovial and the prices incredibly good value for the area.

Le Luna RossaITALIAN€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 93 85 55 66; 3 rue Chauvain; mains €15-30; hnoon-3pm & 7-11pm Tue-Fri, 7-11pm Sat; v)

The Red Moon is like your dream Mediterranean dinner come true: fresh pasta, exquisitely cooked seafood, sun-kissed vegetables and divine meats. Wash it down with one of the excellent bottles of red or rosé from the cellar.

oJanMODERN FRENCH€€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 97 19 32 23; www.restaurantjan.com; 12 rue Lascaris; 2-/3-course lunch menu €25/32, dinner menus €52 & €72, mains €26-32; h6.30-10pm Tue-Thu & Sat, noon-2pm & 6.30-10pm Fri)

An advance reservation (which must then be confirmed by phone the day you dine) is essential at this elegant dining room, the gourmet kingdom of South African wonder-chef Jan Hendrik van der Westhuizen. Antipodean influences are light in the menu but more pronounced in the wine list. There is no à la carte menu – just a divine choice of market-sourced tasting menus.

Le ChanteclerGASTRONOMIC€€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 93 16 64 00; www.hotel-negresco-nice.com; 37 Promenade des Anglais, Hôtel Negresco; menus €110 & €230, mains €62-85; hdinner Wed-Sun, lunch Sun)

In a sumptuous pink Regency dining room, the Negresco's twin-Michelin-starred restaurant, run by locally trained chef Jean-Denis Rieubland, is no ordinary place. Exquisite culinary creations are accompanied by the expertise of an exceptional sommelier, who will match every course with a wine or recommend a bottle for your meal.

MONEY SAVER

The French Riviera Pass (www.frenchrivierapass.com; 1-/2-/3-day pass €26/38/56) covers admission to several Nice sights: the Musée Chagall, the Musée Matisse, MAMAC, L'OpenTour bus, and a 30-minute Segway tour with Mobilboard Nice. Along the coast, it provides admission to the Musée Renoir in Cagnes, the Musée National Fernand Léger in Biot, the Jardin d’Èze, and the Jardin Exotique and Musée Océanographique in Monaco. Buy it online or at Nice tourist office.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Cafe terraces on cours Saleya are lovely for an early evening aperitif. Vieux Nice’s bounty of pubs attracts a noisy, boisterous crowd. Or follow the hipsters to Le Petit Marais in the Port Lympia area, where a clutch of trendy eating and drinking addresses entice.

oArkLOUNGE BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 41 quai des États-Unis; h11am-1am)

The Nice drinking scene suddenly became a whole load more glamorous with the 2015 opening of Ark, a super-chic lounge bar wedged between the sea and cours Saleya. Snag a seat on one of the drop-dead-gorgeous 2nd-floor balconies gazing out at the Med and you'll know you've hit Nice's jetsetter jackpot.

El MerkadoBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.el-merkado.com; 12 rue St-François de Paule; h10.30am-1.30am)

Footsteps from cours Saleya, this hip tapas bar struts its vintage stuff on the ground floor of a quintessential burnt-terracotta-and-green Niçois townhouse. Lounging on its pavement terrace or a sofa over after-beach drinks is the thing to do. Freshly squeezed fruit juices, artisanal mixers, a different house cocktail each day and top tapas make the place buzz.

La ShoungaMOJITO BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://shounga.fr/; 12 place Guynemer ; h8.30-12.30am; W)

Seriously decadent, all-day desserts, ice-cream sundaes and cocktails (€8.50) are the reason to hit the sea-facing terrace of this vibrant mojito bar. Oh, and did we mention the soft comfy armchairs, free wifi and 2L jugs of classic or fruit-laced mojitos (€30)? Find it on the promenade between Vieux Nice and the port.

Comptoir Central ÉlectriqueCAFE, BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.comptoircentralelectrique.fr; 10 rue Bonaparte; h8.30am-12.30am Mon-Sat)

Potted olive trees flag the generous pavement terrace of this happening bar, one of a bunch to mushroom in the increasingly trendy Port Lympia area. Come here for wine, beer, spirits and a fabulously upcycled interior with sofas, library and eye-catching lightbulb collection evocative of the bar's former life as a lighting factory.

Little Rest'OCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.ateliertsade.com; 15 rue Bonaparte; h9am-6pm Tue & Wed, 9am-11pm Thu-Sat)

For tea in a porcelain teapot, lunch with girlfriends or a sweet aperitif, there is no more flouncy, overtly feminine address than this hybrid tearoom-gallery with art works on the walls and light bites to eat. Fresh flowers, old-fashioned glass jars of sweets and period Louis VI armchairs add bags of character to the almost theatrical decor.

BaR'OcWINE BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 10 rue Bavastro; h7pm-12.30am)

This vibrant bar is a buzzing spot for fine wine in the company of yummy tapas – parma ham and fig tartines (toasts), roasted chorizo or oven-baked figatelli (a type of salami from Corsica) – and tasting platters of cheese and cold cuts. Two saggy scarlet sofas glam up the wooden deck out front, on which punters snuggle up in glitzy red shawls on friskier evenings.

Les Distilleries IdéalesCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.lesdistilleriesideales.fr; 24 rue de la Préfecture; h9am-12.30am)

Whether you’re after un café (a coffee) or apéro (predinner drink) with cheese or charcuterie platter, Les Distilleries is one atmospheric bar. Watch the world go by on the narrow street terrace or hang out inside with the 'happy hour' crowd and a good-value cocktail between 6pm and 8pm.

Ma Nolan’sPUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.ma-nolans.com; 2 rue St-François de Paule; hnoon-2am Mon-Fri, 11am-2am Sat & Sun; W)

This Irish pub is big, loud and the pub of reference for all foreigners in town (there are plenty more like this). With live music, a pub quiz, big sport events and typical pub food (burgers, fish and chips etc), it’s a pretty rowdy place. Happy hour is from 6pm to 8pm.

Le SixGAY BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.le6.fr; 6 rue Raoul Bosio; h10pm-5am Tue-Sat)

Primped and pretty A-gays crowd shoulder to shoulder at Nice’s compact, perennially popular gay bar. Le 6 keeps a busy event/party schedule: guest DJs, karaoke, and shower shows.

L’Abat-JourBAR, CLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 25 rue Benoît Bunico; h6.30pm-2.30am Tue-Sat)

With its vintage furniture, basement DJ sessions and alternative music, L’Abat-Jour is all the rage with trendies. Check its Facebook page for events.

Les Trois DiablesCLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.les3diables.com; 2 cours Saleya; h5pm-2am)

This stalwart of Nice's party scene ensures its longevity with a good-hearted mix of weeknight-friendly events (music quiz on Tuesday, karaoke on Wednesday) and DJs to spice up the weekend. Happy hour runs to 9pm every night.

3Entertainment

Nice has a strong live-music tradition, from pop rock to jazz and cabaret; many bars regularly host bands.

Le VolumeLIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.source001.com; 6 rue Defly; h11am-9pm Mon, to 12.30am Tue-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat, 8.30pm-12.30am Sun ; W)

This dynamic cafe, cultural centre and live-music venue is the place to tune into the current and emerging music scene. Live music and jam sessions most nights from 9pm.

Chez Wayne’sLIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.waynes.fr; 15 rue de la Préfecture; h10am-2am)

Raucous watering hole Chez Wayne’s is a typical English pub, with live bands every night. The pub is also sports-mad and shows every rugby, football, Aussie Rules, tennis and cricket game worth watching.

Opéra de NiceOPERA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.opera-nice.org; 4-6 rue St-François de Paule)

The vintage 1885 grande dame hosts operas, ballets and orchestral concerts.

Cinéma RialtoCINEMA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://lerialto.cine.allocine.fr; 4 rue de Rivoli)

Undubbed films, with French subtitles.

SNACKING à LA NIçOISE

Essential tasting for every curious palate is the Niçois speciality socca, a savoury, griddle-fried pancake made from chickpea flour and olive oil, sprinkled with a liberal dose of black pepper. Also typical are petits farcis (stuffed vegetables), pissaladière (traditional onion tart topped with black olives and anchovies) and the many vegetable beignets (fritters).

Try them at Chez René Socca ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 2 rue Miralhéti; small plates €3-6; h9am-9pm Tue-Sun, to 10.30pm Jul & Aug, closed Nov; v) or Lou Pilha Leva ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 93 13 99 08; 10 rue du Collet; small plates €2.80-4; h9am-midnight; v), two dead-casual joints where a merry crowd sits around shared outdoor benches with a glass of rosé.

7Shopping

Shops abound in Nice, ranging from the touristy boutiques of Vieux Nice to the designer temples to fashion around rue de France and the enormous Nice Étoile ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.nicetoile.com; av Jean Médecin) shopping mall. For vintage (fashion and objects) and contemporary art, meander the hip Petit Marais north of Port Lympia. For gourmet gifts to take home, try the following places:

Moulin à Huile d’Olive AlziariFOOD

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.alziari.com.fr; 14 rue St-François de Paule; h8.30am-12.30pm & 2-7pm Mon-Sat)

Superb olive oil, fresh from the mill on the outskirts of Nice; Alziari also produces a dizzying variety of tapenades, fresh olives and other apéro snacks.

Cave de la TourWINE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.cavedelatour.com; 3 rue de la Tour; h7am-8pm Tue-Sat)

Buy wine from cavistes (cellarmen) who know what they’re talking about: Cave de la Tour has been run by the same family since 1947.

Pâtisserie LACFOOD

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.patisseries-lac.com; cnr rues de la Préfecture & St-Gaëtan; h9.30am-1pm & 2.30-7.30pm Tue-Sun)

Macaroons and chocolates from chef pâtissier Pascal Lac.

Pâtisserie Henri Auer ConfiserieFOOD

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.maison-auer.com; 7 rue St-François de Paule; h9am-6pm Tue-Sat)

Crystallised fruit, with recipes dating to 1820.

DON'T MISS

ICE CREAM

Bags of spots sell it, but the best ice cream in Nice is made by maître glacier (master ice-cream maker) Fenocchio ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.fenocchio.fr; 2 place Rossetti; 1/2/3 scoops €2/3.50/5; h9am-midnight Feb-Oct), in the biz since 1966. Dither too long over the 70-plus flavours of ice cream and sorbet and you’ll never make it to the front of the queue. Eschew predictable favourites and indulge in a new taste sensation: black olive, thyme, rosemary, lavender, ginger chocolate, violet or typical Niçois tourte de blette (a sweet Swiss Chard tart made with raisins, pine kernels and parmesan cheese). Fenocchio has a second shop ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 93 62 88 80; www.fenocchio.fr; 6 rue de la Poissonerie; h9am-midnight Wed-Mon).

8Information

Hôpital St-RochHOSPITAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 92 03 33 75; www.chu-nice.fr; 5 rue Pierre Dévoluy; h24hr)

Police StationPOLICE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 92 17 22 22; 1 av Maréchal Foch; h24hr)

Non-French speakers can call 04 92 17 20 31, where translators are on hand.

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %08 92 70 74 07; www.nicetourisme.com; 5 Promenade des Anglais; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat)

There’s also a branch in front of the train station ( GOOGLE MAP ; av Thiers; h8am-7pm Mon-Sat, 10am-5pm Sun).

8Getting There & Away

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

LE PETIT MARAIS

Parisians might scoff at the idea, but Le Petit Marais in Nice is nicknamed after the trendy Marais district in Paris for good reason. The Niçois quartier – the area of town wedged between place Garibaldi and Port Lympia – buzzes with happening eating, drinking and boutique-shopping addresses, firmly off the tourist radar but in the address book of every trendy local. Stroll the lengths of rue Bonaparte, rue Bavestro, rue Lascaris and surrounding streets to catch the city's latest hot new opening.

Air

Nice-Côte d’Azur AirportAIRPORT

( GOOGLE MAP ; %08 20 42 33 33; www.nice.aeroport.fr; W)

France’s second-largest airport has two terminals, linked by free shuttle.

Bus

There is an excellent intercity bus service from Nice; tickets cost just €1.50.

Bus 100 goes to Menton (1½ hours) via the Corniche Inférieure and Monaco (40 minutes).

Bus 200 goes to Cannes (1½ hours).

Bus 400 goes to Vence (1¼ hours) via St-Paul de Vence (one hour).

Bus 500 goes to Grasse (1½ hours).

Eurolines ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.eurolines.com; 27 rue de l’Hôtel des Postes) serves long-haul European destinations.

Boat

Nice is the main port for ferries to Corsica. SNCM ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.sncm.fr; quai du Commerce) and Corsica Ferries ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.corsicaferries.com; quai du Commerce) are two main companies.

Train

8Getting Around

To/From the Airport

Nice-Côte d'Azur Airport is 6km west of Nice, by the sea. A taxi to Nice's centre from the rank outside the terminal costs €23 to €31 (€28 to €33 between 6pm and 7am).

Buses 98 and 99 link the airport's terminal with Promenade des Anglais and Nice train station respectively (€6, 35 minutes, every 20 minutes).

Bus 110 (€20, hourly) links the airport with Monaco (40 minutes) and Menton (one hour).

Bus 210 goes to Cannes (€20, 50 minutes, half-hourly); bus 250 to Antibes (€10, 55 minutes, half-hourly).

Bicycle

Vélo BleuBICYCLE RENTAL

(%04 93 72 06 06; www.velobleu.org)

Nice's shared-bicycle service has 100-plus stations around the city – pick up wheels at one, return at another. One-day/week subscriptions costs €1/5, plus usage: free the first 30 minutes, €1 the next 30, then €2 per hour thereafter. Some stations are equipped with terminals to register directly with a credit card; otherwise you’ll need a mobile phone.

The handy 'Vélo Bleu' app allows you to find your nearest station, gives real-time information about the number of bikes available at each and calculates itineraries.

Holiday BikesBICYCLE RENTAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.holiday-bikes.com; 23 rue de Belgique)

Rents out 50cc scooters/125cc motorcycles for €30/55.

Bus & Tram

Buses and trams in Nice are run by Ligne d’Azur (www.lignesdazur.com). Tickets cost €1.50. A second tram line linking place Masséna with the airport along Promenade des Anglais is planned for late 2017.

Buses are handy to get to Cimiez and the port. Night buses run from around 9pm until 2am.

The tram is great for getting across town, particularly from the train station to Vieux Nice and place Garibaldi. Trams run from 4.30am to 1.30am.

Car & Motorcycle

Major car-rental companies have offices at the train station. To go native, opt for two wheels.

Taxi

For taxis, call Taxi Riviera (%04 93 13 78 78; www.taxis-nice.fr).

WORTH A TRIP

TRAIN DES PIGNES

The narrow-gauge railway Train des Pignes, chugging between the mountains and the sea, is one of Provence’s most picturesque rides. The 151km track between Nice and Digne-les-Bains rises to 1000m for breathtaking views as it passes through Haute-Provence’s scarcely populated backcountry.

The service runs five times a day and is ideal for a day trip inland. The beautiful medieval village of Entrevaux is just 1½ hours from Nice (return €20.60), perfect for a picnic and a wander through its historic centre and citadel.

Arrière-Pays Niçois

This quiet, little-known corner of the Côte d’Azur, 20km inland from Nice, is where Niçois come to weekend away from the urban rush. Attractions are low-key: a walk in the hills (consult www.randoxygene.org for itinerary ideas), a stroll in isolated villages, or a long lunch in a tasty auberge (country inn). There is a bus to Peille, but your own wheels are best.

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

BELLET WINES

High in the hills northwest of Nice is one of France’s smallest vineyards, Bellet. The tiny sun-rich appellation dates to 1941 and is highly sought after – just a dozen producers work 55 hectares of land, including Château de Bellet (%04 93 37 81 57; www.chateaudebellet.com; 325 chemin de Saquier; h2-5.30pm Mon-Fri or by appointment) and nearby Domaine de Toasc (%04 92 15 14 14; www.domainedetoasc.com; 213 chemin de Crémat; h2.30-5.30pm Tue-Sat), both 20 minutes north of Nice along rte de Grenoble (D6202). Both domaines (estates) can be visited – reserve vineyards tours and tastings in advance – and Domaine de Toasc even has a couple of self-catering properties between vines to rent.

Whites use Rolle grapes, a typical Nice variety, while reds and rosés rely on Folle Noire (‘crazy black’, so named because of its erratic yields) and grenache. Vines grow in terraced beds known as restanques and grapes are harvested by hand. Twice a year, in June and again in late November, Bellet producers hold an open-door weekend when visitors can freely wander the vineyards, talk to winemakers and taste wines from each domaine. Nice tourist office has details, as does www.vinsdebellet.com.

Peillon

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This spectacular hilltop village has long been prized by local populations for its defensive characteristics: the first houses date to the 10th century. What draws visitors from far and wide, however, is not the sleepy village but Auberge de la Madone (%04 93 79 91 17; www.auberge-madone-peillon.com; 3 place Auguste Arnulf, Peillon; menus from €30; hlunch & dinner Thu-Tue Feb-Oct; W), where father-and-son chef-duo Christian and Thomas Millo cook up Provençal staples with a dash of modernity. Indulge in their superb cuisine in a grand dining room in winter or on a panoramic terrace in summer. And if you really cannot move after devouring Swiss chard tart with herbs, cod fillet in spice crust, Muscat pan-fried strawberries with sorbet and almond biscuit and the like, ask about one of the hotel rooms (from €98) up top.

Peille

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Peille may not be as spectacular as Peillon, but it makes up for it with history. The village's excellent Point Info Tourisme (%04 93 82 14 40; 15 rue centrale, Peille; hWed-Sun 10am-noon & 1-6pm) offers free, tailor-made guided tours depending on how much time you have (available in English and Italian). Highlights include the medieval centre, the village museum, the church and old photographs of the village.

Then there is Peille's via ferrata (%04 93 79 95 75; http://peille.free.fr/index.php; Peille; admission €3, euipment hire €16; h9am-6pm, closed Thu afternoon low season), a daredevil mountain course equipped with ladders, fixed cables, rope bridges etc. No previous experience is required, but you must be sure-footed, reasonably fit and not scared of heights. The course takes about four hours to complete; pay admission at the tourist office or Bar l'Absinthe (%04 93 79 95 75; 6 rue Félix Faure, Peille; h8am-9pm Mon-Fri, 9am-9pm Sat & Sun, shorter hrs Oct-Apr), where you can also rent equipment (€16 for helmet, harness, ropes, carabiners etc). A mountain guide costs €45 and must be booked in advance.

Bus 116 (€1.50) links Peille with La Turbie (20 minutes) and Nice (one hour) three times a day.

The Three Corniches

This trio of corniches (coastal roads) hugs the cliffs between Nice and Monaco, each higher than the last, with dazzling views of the Med.

Corniche Inférieure

Skimming the villa-lined waterfront between Nice and Monaco, the Corniche Inférieure, built in the 1860s, passes through the towns of Villefranche-sur-Mer, St-Jean-Cap Ferrat, Beaulieu-sur-Mer, Èze-sur-Mer and Cap d’Ail.

8Getting There & Around

Bus 100 (€1.50, every 15 minutes between 6am and 8pm) runs the length of the Corniche Inférieure between Nice and Menton, stopping at all the villages along the way, including Villefranche-sur-Mer (15 minutes), Beaulieu-sur-Mer (20 minutes) and Cap d’Ail (35 minutes). Bus 81 serves Villefranche (20 minutes) and St-Jean-Cap Ferrat (30 minutes).

From Nice, trains to Ventimiglia in Italy (every 30 minutes, 5am to 11pm) stop at Villefranche-sur-Mer (€1.20, seven minutes), Beaulieu-sur-Mer (€1.60, 10 minutes) and Cap d’Ail (€2.80, 18 minutes).

Villefranche-sur-Mer

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Heaped above an idyllic harbour, this picturesque village with imposing citadel overlooks the Cap Ferrat peninsula and, thanks to its deep harbour, is a prime port of call for cruise ships. The 14th-century old town, with its tiny, evocatively named streets broken by twisting staircases and glimpses of the sea, is a delight to amble (preferably broken with a long lazy lunch on the water's edge or a bijou old-town square).

1Sights & Activities

In the Vieille Ville (old town) don't miss eerie, arcaded rue Obscure, a historical monument a block in from the water.

La CitadelleFORTRESS

(%04 93 76 33 27; place Emmanuel Philibert; h10am-noon & 3-6.30pm Mon-Sat, 3-6.30pm Sun Jun-Sep, to 5.30pm Oct & Dec-May)F

Villefranche's imposing citadel, also called Fort St-Elme and worth a visit for its impressive architecture, was built by the duke of Savoy between 1554 and 1559 to defend the gulf. Its walls today shelter the town hall, well-combed public gardens and several museum collections: the Fondation Musée Volti (%04 93 76 33 27; h9am-noon & 2.30-7pm Mon & Wed-Sat, 2.30-7pm Sun Jul & Aug, to 6pm Mon & Wed-Sat Jun & Sep) displays voluptuous bronzes by Villefranche sculptor Antoniucci Volti (1915–89); the Musée Goetz-Boumeester displays modern art in the citadel's former living quarters; and the Collection Roux comprises several hundred ceramic figurines depicting life in medieval and Renaissance times.

Chapelle St-PierreCHURCH

(admission €3; h10am-noon & 3-7pm Wed-Mon Apr-Sep, 10am-noon & 2-6pm Oct-Mar, closed mid-Nov–mid-Dec)

Villefranche was a favourite of Jean Cocteau (1889–1963), who sought solace here in 1924 after the death of his companion Raymond Radiguet. Several years later, Cocteau convinced locals to let him paint the neglected, 14th-century Chapelle St-Pierre, which he transformed into a mirage of mystical frescoes. Scenes from St Peter’s life are interspersed with references to Cocteau's cinematic work (notably the drivers from Orpheus) and friends (Francine Weisweiller, whose Villa Santo Sospir in St-Jean-Cap Ferrat Cocteau also decorated).

Affrètement Maritime VillefranchoisBOAT TOUR

(%04 93 76 65 65; www.amv-sirenes.com; Port de la Santé; hJun-Sep)

Since the creation of an international marine mammal sanctuary between France, Monaco and Italy in 1999, a number of cetaceans frequent Riviera waters. Dolphins are common; more occasional are sperm whales and fin whales. Keep your eyes peeled during a half-day dolphin- and whale-watching expedition (adult/child €48/38). The company also organises two-hour boat trips to Monaco (adult/child €20/17).

4Sleeping

La VigneB&B€€

(%06 18 85 75 95; www.lavigne-villefranche.com; 1387 av Léopold II; d €95-105; Wc)

The Vine is a stylish maison d'hôte (B&B) with a trio of simple rooms in a 1930s villa, 20 minutes on foot (1.2km) from the Vieille Ville. Living is easy and gourmet – there is no TV, just a library to browse, olive and fruit trees to seek shade between, a car called Caroline and a boat to Anaïs to explore the area with.

Picnic hampers for two (€20) and dinner (€25 to €40 per person) available on request. Cooking classes, photography workshops and French lessons too.

oHôtel WelcomeBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€€

(%04 93 76 27 62; www.welcomehotel.com; 3 quai Amiral Courbet; d from €235; hJan-Oct; aiW)

Unusually, all 35 rooms at this burnt-orange seafront hotel have balcony and sea view. Those on the 6th floor are predictably the best, but watching the fishers pull into harbour to sell their catch is an early-morning joy from every room. Decor is faintly nautical and the hotel has a 12-man boat with skipper (and swimming towels) for guests to rent.

5Eating & Drinking

Dolce VitaCAFE€

(%04 93 01 71 31; 17 quai de l'Amiral Courbet; h8.30am-midnight May-Sep, to 5pm Oct-Apr)

Among the generous line-up of restaurant terraces along the seafront, the Sweet Life is a favourite for its hip, shabby-chic lounge-bar vibe and international bistro cuisine. Pick from comfy sofa seating by the bar or a table on the water's edge.

La GrignotièreBRASSERIE€

(3 rue Poilu; pizza €10-13, mains €14-21, menu €18; hnoon-2pm & 7.30-9.30pm; c)

For a cheap and cheerful fill, there is no finer address along the coast than La Grignotière, known far and wide for its generous portions of grilled fish and veg, lasagne, pizza and other crowd-pleasers. Decor is old-fashioned and nothing to rave about, but the place is charming and unpretentious. It has a few tables on the pedestrian street.

oLes GarçonsMEDITERRANEAN€€

(%04 93 76 62 40; 18 rue du Poilu; mains €20-26; hnoon-2.30pm & 7.30-10.30pm Thu-Mon)

Gourmets in the know flock to this stylish address, buried in Villefranche's rabbit warren of ancient old-town backstreets. In summer tables sprawl elegantly across a bijou stone square, romantically lit by twinkling lights after dark. Cuisine is creative, local and driven by the market and local fishers' catch. Red tuna tartare with avocado is a delicious all-year staple.

La Mère GermaineSEAFOOD€€€

(%04 93 01 71 39; www.meregermaine.com; 7 quai Amiral Courbet; menu €46, mains €31-51; hnoon-2pm & 7-10.30pm)

In business since 1938, La Mère Germaine is an upmarket address for seafood, fish and more seafood, washed down with a splendid choice of wine.

8Information

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

(%04 93 01 73 68; www.villefranche-sur-mer.com; Port de la Santé, Jardin François Binon; h10am-5pm Wed-Mon)

April to September the tourist office runs Friday-morning guided tours (€5, 1½ hours) of the citadel museums and old town. It also has information on family workshops (adult/child €5/3) held in the citadel museums.

Beaulieu-sur-Mer & St-Jean-Cap Ferrat

The seaside holiday town of Beaulieu-sur-Mer (population 3796) is well known for its well-preserved belle époque architecture. It sits at the beginning of Cap Ferrat, a wooded peninsula laden with millionaires' villas and home to the small village of St-Jean-Cap Ferrat (population 1913).

1Sights & Activities

oVilla Santo SospirHISTORIC MANSION

(%04 93 76 00 16; www.villasantosospir.fr; 14 av Jean Cocteau, St-Jean-Cap Ferrat; guided tour €12; hby appointment only)

This villa belongs to the Weisweiller family, patrons of Jean Cocteau. In 1950 Cocteau asked Francine Weisweiller (1916–2003) if he could paint the living room. Soon the entire villa was covered in frescoes – possible to admire during 45-minute guided tours led by Eric Marteau, Francine Weisweiller's former nurse and now the villa's guardian. Weisweiller was a well-known Parisian socialite and Marteau got to know her well. His tours are therefore peppered with anecdotes about Cocteau, Weisweiller and their peers, which means both the listening and the viewing are compelling. Book tours at least the day before.

Villa Ephrussi de RothschildHISTORIC MANSION

(www.villa-ephrussi.com/en; St-Jean-Cap Ferrat; adult/child €13/10; h10am-6pm Mar-Oct, 2-6pm Nov-Feb)

An over-the-top belle époque confection, this villa was commissioned by Baroness Béatrice Ephrussi de Rothschild in 1912. She was an avid art collector and the villa is filled with Fragonard paintings, Louis XVI furniture and Sèvres porcelain. From its balcony, nine exquisite themed gardens appear like a ship’s deck. Stunning in spring, the Spanish, Japanese, Florentine, stone, cactus, rose and French gardens are delightful to stroll through – sea views are supreme and fountains 'dance' to classical music every 20 minutes.

Bus 81, which links Nice and St-Jean-Cap Ferrat, stops at the foot of the driveway leading to the villa (bus stop 'Passable').

Villa Grecque KérylosHISTORIC MANSION

(%04 93 01 01 44; www.villa-kerylos.com; Impasse Gustave Eiffel, Beaulieu-sur-Mer; adult/child €11.50/9; h10am-7pm Jul & Aug, 10am-6pm Mar-Oct, 2-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun Nov-Feb)

This magnificent villa is a reproduction of a 1st-century Athenian villa, complete with baths, stunning mosaic floors and furniture such as dining recliners. It was designed by scholar-archaeologist Théodore Reinach in 1902, at a time when the must-have for well-to-do socialites was an eccentric house on the Côte d'Azur.

oCap FerratWALKING

This dreamy peninsula is laced with 14km of eucalyptus-scented walking paths, all with magnificent views and wonderful coastline all the way. There are various itineraries, all easy going; tourist offices have maps.

4Sleeping & Eating

Hôtel RivieraHOTEL€€

(%04 93 01 04 92; www.hotel-riviera.fr; 6 rue Paul Doumer, Beaulieu-sur-Mer; d €79-130; hreception 7.30am-7pm Jan-Oct; aW)

A breath of fresh air, this tasteful two-star hotel with wrought-iron balconies and a hibiscus-laden summer patio perfect for breakfasting is hard to resist. Rooms are immaculate and comfortable, and the owners charming. Probably the best value on the coast.

Le SloopSEAFOOD€€

(%04 93 01 48 63; www.restaurantsloop.com; Port de Plaisance, St-Jean-Cap Ferrat; mains €18-25; hnoon-1.30pm & 7-9.30pm Thu-Tue)

With its elegant red-and-blue nautical decor and portside terrace within grasp of the bobbing yachts, Le Sloop is a cut above the rest on this popular restaurant strip. Its seafood and shellfish are uberfresh and good value.

8Information

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

(%04 93 01 01 21; www.beaulieusurmer.fr; place Georges Clémenceau, Beaulieu-sur-Mer; h9am-6.30pm Mon-Sat, 9am-12.30pm Sun Jul & Aug, shorter hrs rest yr)

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

(%04 93 76 08 90; www.saintjeancapferrat.fr; 5 & 59 av Denis Séméria, St-Jean-Cap Ferrat; h9am-4pm Mon-Fri)

Moyenne Corniche

Cut through rock in the 1920s, the Moyenne Corniche takes drivers from Nice past the Col de Villefranche (149m), Èze and Beausoleil (the French town bordering Monaco’s Monte Carlo).

8Getting There & Around

Bus 82 serves the Moyenne Corniche from Nice all the way to Èze (20 minutes); bus 112 carries on to Beausoleil (40 minutes, Monday to Saturday).

Èze

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This rocky little village perched on an impossible peak is the jewel in the Riviera crown. The main attraction is the medieval village itself, with small higgledy-piggledy stone houses and winding lanes (and plenty of galleries and shops), and the mesmerising views of the coast.

You'll get the best panorama from Jardin Exotique d'Èze (%04 93 41 10 30; adult/child €6/2.50; h9am-sunset), a cactus garden at the top of the village. It's also where you'll find the old castle ruins; take time to sit there or in the garden's Zen area to contemplate the stunning view: few places on earth offer such a wild panorama.

The village gets very crowded during the day; for a quieter wander, come early in the morning or late afternoon. Or even better, stay in the village. Five-star boutique Château Eza (%04 93 41 12 24; www.chateaueza.com; rue de la Pise, Èze; d from €360; aW) has 12 sumptuous rooms and a Michelin-starred gastronomic restaurant, with a dreamy panoramic bar for an unforgettable aperitif.

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

CHEMIN DE NIETZSCHE

Walk down from the hilltop village of Èze to its coastal counterpart, Èze-sur-Mer, via the steep Chemin de Nietzsche, a 45-minute footpath named after the German philosopher Nietzsche, who started writing Thus Spoke Zarathustra while staying in Èze (and enjoying this path).

Grande Corniche

Hitchcock was sufficiently impressed by Napoléon’s cliff-hanging Grande Corniche to use it as a backdrop for his film To Catch a Thief (1956), starring Cary Grant and Grace Kelly. Ironically, Kelly died in 1982 after crashing her car on this very same road.

1Sights

Views from the spectacular Grande Corniche are mesmerising, and if you're driving, you'll probably want to stop at every bend to admire the unfolding vistas.

Fort de la RevèreVIEWPOINT

Sitting 675m above the sea, the fort is the perfect place to revel in 360-degree views. An orientation table helps you get your bearings. The fort was built in 1870 to protect Nice (it served as an Allied prisoner camp during WWII). There are picnic tables under the trees for an alfresco lunch and dozens of trails in the surrounding Parc Naturel Départemental de la Grande Corniche, a protected area that stretches along the D2564 from Col d’Èze to La Turbie.

Trophée des AlpesROMAN SITE

(%04 93 41 20 84; http://la-turbie.monuments-nationaux.fr; 18 av Albert Ier, La Turbie; adult/child €5.50/free; h9.30am-1pm & 2.30-6.30pm Tue-Sun mid-May–mid-Sep, 10am-1.30pm & 2.30-5pm rest of yr )

This triumphal monument was built by Emperor Augustus in 6 BC to celebrate his victory over the Celto-Ligurian Alpine tribes that had fought Roman sovereignty (the names of the 45 peoples are carved on the western side of the monument). The tower teeters on the highest point of the old Roman road, with dramatic views of Monaco. Last admission is half an hour before closing time.

4Sleeping & Eating

oCafé de la FontaineMODERN FRENCH€€

(%04 93 28 52 79; 4 av Général de Gaulle, La Turbie; mains €18-25; hnoon-2.30pm & 7-11pm)

Those not in the know wouldn’t give this inconspicuous village bistro a second glance. What they don’t know is that it is Michelin-starred chef Bruno Cirino’s baby – somewhere for him to go back to his culinary roots with simple yet delicious dishes reflecting le terroir (land) and season. Blackboard plats (dishes) are a perfect reflection of what's at the market.

L'Hostellerie JérômeGASTRONOMIC€€€

(%04 92 41 51 51; www.hostelleriejerome.com; 20 rue Comte de Cessole, La Turbie; dinner menus €78 & €138; h7-10pm daily Jul & Aug, Wed-Sun Sep, Oct & Mar-Jun)

For the full wham-bam gastronomic show, reserve a table at Bruno Cirino's Michelin-starred restaurant. The Italianate chef works with local producers and fishers to create an imaginative cuisine rooted firmly in the rich terroir (land): warm fig tart with aniseed and pistachio sorbet, langoustine in an almond crust, roast pigeon in a black olive and Bandol wine reduction.

Five rooms (doubles €135 to €150) above ensure the perfect end to a memorably tasty evening,

Getting There & Around

Bus 116 links the town of La Turbie (population 3194) with Nice five times a day (€1.50, 35 minutes), and bus 114 goes to Monaco six times a day (€1.50, 30 minutes).