The north-central part of the state has a number of worthy venues for visitors, including Walker and Leech Lake, a large lake popular for sailors and fishing enthusiasts (and also home to the annual Eelpout Festival; see Special Events), and Dorset, a food-minded village on the Heartland Trail. Dense forests and countless lakes make up the scenery here in a most Minnesotan way.
To See and Do
Northern Lights Casino and Hotel (1-800-252-7529; northernlightscasino.com), 6800 Frontage Road NW, Walker. Open daily. Slots, poker, and blackjack are open 24/7. Two restaurants and a snack bar are in the casino, while the attached hotel has an indoor pool and sauna, and extensive arcade.
Forestedge Winery (218-224-3535; forestedgewinery.com), 35295 MN 64, LaPorte. Open Tues.–Sun. May–Dec. Northwest of Walker is this winery, which produces wines from hardy northern crops such as chokecherries, blueberries, raspberries, and plums. Forestedge’s rhubarb wine has won several awards. Stop by for a sample, and enjoy the beautiful gardens. Tables are available if you’d like to enjoy a bottle right on the spot.
GRAND RAPIDS TRAIL AT THE FOREST HISTORY CENTER
Green Space And Outdoor Activities
Heartland Trail (dnr.state.mn.us/state_trails/heartland/index.html), Park Rapids. This 49-mile trail uses old railroad grades to create a multiuse trail system. The trail is paved and can be used by hikers, bicyclists, and bladers (but be aware that the terrain is very steep in some areas and rough in others), and an adjacent grass trail can be used by horseback riders and mountain bikers. Snowmobile enthusiasts will find the trail is groomed all winter long.
Leech Lake (leechlake.org). North of the popular Brainerd Lakes area is Leech Lake, a favored fishing lake surrounded by forests and opportunities for year-round outdoor activities. Hundreds of resorts flank the lake (see Lodging for some examples) and boaters, anglers (both summer and winter), skiers, snowmobilers, and hunters have all contributed to the growth of this area as a four-season destination.
Lodging
BED-AND-BREAKFASTS
Heartland Trail Bed and Breakfast (218-732-3252; heartlandbb.com), Dorset. The Restaurant Capital of the World (see “Dorset—Restaurant Capital of the World” on page 172) is also home to this charming bed-and-breakfast, a renovated 1920s community school building. The inn has five spacious guest rooms, all with private baths and fireplaces; full breakfast is served daily. Located on the Heartland Trail (see Green Space and Outdoor Activities). Rates start at $75.
Lady Slipper Inn B&B (218-573-3353; ladyslipperinn.com), 51722 270th Street, Osage. A true nature retreat, this bed-and-breakfast is in a farmhouse surrounded by 160 acres of forest, meadows, ponds, and streams. Five guest rooms, all with private bath and gas fireplaces. Some rooms have private decks and entrances. A separate lodge offers guests a full kitchen and common area with tables and chairs for games or crafts. A historic local Catholic Church building was moved onto the property and can be used for on-site weddings. Rates start at $135.
HISTORIC FIRE TOWER AT THE FOREST HISTORY CENTER
Embracing Pines Bed and Breakfast (218-224-3519 or 218-731-5026; embracingpines.com), 32287 County Route 38, Walker. This quiet inn has two rooms with a shared bath and a suite with private bath. The rooms are decorated with a north woods theme, and the common area evokes a log cabin. Embracing Pines is an active participant in the Minnesota Bed & Breakfast Association’s Green Journeys Program, implementing ecologically friendly practices and products throughout the home. Rates start at $79.
CABINS
Breezy Point Resort (218-573-3125 or 1-800-939-2630; breezypoint.com), 54852 MN 34, Osage. Breezy Point has 10 log cabins with knotty pine interiors, spacious and comfortable. A new “tiny house” cabin is also available for people interested in trying out the tiny home concept. The resort offers boat and motor rental, and guided fishing trips can be arranged. There’s a sandy beach with a variety of beach toys—paddleboats, hydro bikes, and kayaks—included in the rates. Pets accepted in the off-season. Rates start at $110.
Crow Wing Crest Lodge (218-652-3111; crowwing.com), 31159 County Route 23, Akeley. Open mid-May–Oct. Crow Wing’s 19 cabins, set on a pristine lake, vary from rustic to upscale. The resort prides itself on its environmental stance; the proprietors recycle lake water, use no pesticides or herbicides, and use only all-natural cleaning products. The owners also have a holistic approach to vacations, and reflexology, aromatherapy, massage, and yoga are offered. Kids’ activities are offered daily during the summer; that is, if they aren’t entertained enough on the sandy beach with the beach toys, paddleboats, kayaks, or the playground, or the fishing dock. Rates start at $83.
Bailey’s Resort on Leech Lake (218-547-1464 or 1-800-458-7540; baileysresort.com), 33216 CR 38, Walker. Open mid-May–early Oct. Bailey’s has nine cabins situated on 24 acres, making it an uncrowded retreat that focuses on families. There are water toys galore, bikes for rent, and a boat launch from a narrow harbor onto Leech Lake. Rates start at $122.
Brindley’s Harbor Resort (1-888-547-5477; brindleysharbor.com), 9530 NW Pine Point Road, Walker. This quiet resort on Leech Lake has 15 cottages, a lakehome, and five luxury log cabins. A huge sandy beach has four piers for fishing as well as a boat slip and marina. The use of canoes, kayaks, sailboats, bikes, and hammocks are all included; boats and ice houses are available for guest rental. The staff will clean and freeze your catch of fish. Rates start at $135.
Chase on the Lake (218-547-7777 or 1-833-669-8820; chaseonthelake.com), 502 Cleveland Boulevard, Walker. Chase on the Lake is a classic upscale resort with lovely hotel rooms and condos, the latter of which come equipped with full kitchens and laundry units. There’s a full-service spa on-site, and golf packages at two nearby 18-hole courses are available. Chase has its own two-lane bowling alley, and a supervised kids program is offered during the summer. If you don’t feel like cooking, fine dining is on-site, too (see Where to Eat). Rates start at $109. Specials and packages are available.
Where to Eat
DINING OUT
The Boulders (218-547-1006; facebook.com/the bouldersrestaurant), 8363 NW Lake Land Trail, Walker. Open daily for dinner. An upscale restaurant with a casual atmosphere, the Boulders offers steak, salmon, lamb chops, and even paella, which is beautifully prepared and served. A good special-occasion choice. Expensive.
Lucky Moose Bar and Grill (218-547-0801; luckymoosebargrill.com), 441 Walker Bay Boulevard, Walker. Open daily for lunch and dinner, Sat.–Sun. for brunch. A casual bar and grill housed in a log building. The menu includes burgers and comfort-based entrées (think meat loaf, steak, and bangers and mash), as well as a house specialty of lavosh crackers treated like pizzas. Moderate/expensive.
The 502 at Chase on the Lake (218-547-8502; chaseonthelake.com), 502 Cleveland Boulevard, Walker. Open daily for lunch and dinner, Sat. and Sun. for breakfast. The restaurant at the Chase on the Lake resort (see Lodging) is a special-occasion restaurant for locals and serves up sizable portions of chicken, steak, and seafood. There is prime rib on weekends and an all-you-can-eat fish fry on Fri. Boat-up service is available to the restaurant’s expansive lakeside patio. Moderate/expensive.
THE EFFIE CAFÉ
DORSET—RESTAURANT CAPITAL OF THE WORLD
This tiny town has, tongue firmly in cheek, billed itself as the Restaurant Capital of the World, and certainly it’s hard to believe any other town has as many restaurants per capita as this one does. With just 22 residents, Dorset has four restaurants—that’s one for every 5.5 villagers. (This is also a town that once elected a local 5-year-old as its mayor.) What’s more surprising is that while the restaurants may not be profiled in Food & Wine anytime soon, they are worthy of a visit if you’re in the neighborhood (which is east of Park Rapids on County Route 18, north of MN 34). Just follow the boardwalk down the main street (or take a detour from the Heartland Trail if you’re out hiking or biking), and you’ll find a good meal somewhere.
Dorset General Store (218-732-0275; dorset-general-store.business.site), 20470 MN 226. Open daily for dinner, Tues.–Sun. for all three meals, May–Sept. Breakfast features include the standard pancakes and omelets, along with stuffed French toast and potato pancakes; lunch offers a few pasta items, along with burgers and sandwiches; and dinner is a changing roster of Italian foods. Moderate.
Dorset Chick’n Coop Restaurant and Bar (218-732-4072; facebook.com/dorsetchicken), 20456 MN 226. Open Mon.–Fri. for dinner, Sat. for lunch and dinner, Sun. for all three meals year-round. Broasted chicken steak, lobster and shrimp, as well as burgers, salads, sandwiches, and daily specials that can include meat loaf, chicken pot pie, or a broasted chicken and wild rice bake. Moderate.
Dorset House Restaurant and Soda Fountain (218-732-5556; facebook.com/DorsetHouse Restaurant), 20414 Fajita Loop. Open daily for lunch and dinner in the summer. Pizza, sandwiches, and burgers, with homemade pies for dessert and, of course, ice cream. Inexpensive/moderate.
Companeros (218-732-7624; companerosofdorset.com), 20427 MN 226. Open daily for lunch and dinner, Jun.–Aug.; Thurs.–Sun. for dinner and Sun. for brunch, May and Sept. Americanized Mexican food served in cheerful abundance. Inexpensive.
EATING OUT
MinneSoda Fountain (218-732-3240; facebook.com/TheMinneSodaFountain), 205 S. Main Street, Park Rapids. Open daily for more than 80 years in the heart of this small town, the MinneSoda falls under the category of “don’t miss.” When you visit this 17-stool confectionary, leave the calorie counter at home. Inexpensive.
Charlie’s Up North/Charlie’s Boathouse (218-547-0222; charliesupnorth.com), 6841 NW MN 371, Walker. Charlie’s Up North is open daily year-round for all three meals; the Boathouse is open for lunch and dinner during the summer. Charlie’s is a casual, friendly dining spot serving three hearty meals a day, with a special Chinese menu on Tues. and Thurs., and prime rib on Sat. and Sun. The Boathouse is a freestanding outdoor bar with an extensive patio wrapped around an old boat rehabbed into the bar; it’s a good spot for enjoying a sunny day. Moderate.
CHARLIE’S BOATHOUSE
The Good Life Cafe (218-237-4212; thegoodlifecafepr.com), 220 Main Avenue S., Park Rapids. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Good Life has contemporary takes on diner classics with an eye to local ingredients, including an updated wild rice hotdish and a lefse falafel. Inexpensive.
The Great Northern Cafe (218-732-9565; greatnortherncafe.com), 218 1st Street E., Park Rapids. Open daily for breakfast and lunch. Great Northern follows a more traditional diner path, with basic sandwiches and burgers, along with a full slate of hot sandwiches (meat and gravy on bread with potatoes) and Switchman’s Dinners that include chicken fried steak and liver and onions. For a more formal dining option, Necce’s Italian Ristorante has pasta, steak, and seafood. Inexpensive.
Entertainment
Long Lake Theater (218-732-0099; longlaketheater.com), 12183 Beacon Road, Hubbard. Open Wed.–Sat. on selected dates, Jun.–Sept. Summer stock theater offering four to five productions each year, along with holiday productions of A Christmas Carol.
Northern Light Opera Company (1-866-766-7372; northernlightopera.org), 203 Park Avenue S., Park Rapids. Productions on occasion; check website for schedule. The name of this company is a play on words; the light refers to light opera more than northern lights. This grassroots organization has diligently been putting together productions, primarily of Gilbert and Sullivan, since 2001. Their success is demonstrated by their growth and their branching out, including performances of My Fair Lady and South Pacific.
Jasper’s Jubilee Theater (218-255-1333; jasperstheater.com), 17339 MN 34, Park Rapids. Open Jul.–Sept. Adults $25; seniors 60 and older $24; children 4–16 $10; children under 4 free if sitting on an adult’s lap. Discounts available for groups of 20 or more. A lively family-friendly live show incorporating music, magic, juggling, yodeling, dancing, and comedy skits.
Woodtick Musical Theater (218-652-4200), 65 Broadway Street E., Akeley. Open mid-Jun.–mid-Sept. Adults $18.50; senior citizens $17.50; children 13–17 $10.50; children 6–12 $8.50; children under 6 free. Billing its show as similar to those in Branson, Missouri, the Woodtick Theater offers a musical variety show each summer that’s appropriate for all ages. The music encompasses country, folk, bluegrass, and gospel, and is accompanied by a comedy show.
Special Events
February: Eelpout Festival (eelpoutfestival.com), Walker. Held mid-February each year, the Eelpout Festival, besides having one of the odder names for a state festival, is a good-natured celebration of winter and the joys of ice fishing for one of the state’s ugliest fish. Events during the three-day event include, of course, ice fishing, as well as a 5K run, an ice-house decorating contest, on-ice auto and snowmobile races, rugby on ice, and the Polar Plunge, an opportunity to raise money for the local community center by collecting pledges and agreeing to jump in the lake—in February.
June: Moondance Jammin Country Fest (218-836-1055; jammincountry.com), Walker. Started by the creators of the classic-rock Moondance Jam (see July, below), Jammin Country Fest is a large outdoor three-day country music fest that allows the option of camping on-site. Ticket rates vary from $125–625 with perks piling up for the latter, including meet-and-greets, free beer, pop, and water, discounted cocktail, and dinners. Recent performers include Kane Brown, the Brothers Osborne, and Neal McCoy. Planning ahead is essential for this festival, especially if you want to camp.
July: Moondance Jam (218-836-1055; moondancejam.com), Walker. Ticket prices for the three-day festival start at $105 for a one-day pass and $240 for a three-day general admission ticket. Various VIP packages include special seating; a VIP tent with free beer, pop, and water; discounted cocktails; occasional meet-and-greets with some of the bands; dinner and hors d’oeuvres daily; and preferential parking. Tickets go on sale nearly a year in advance, and the closer to festival date, the more they cost. Campsites should be reserved ahead of time. The classic-rock version of WE Fest (see “WE Fest” on page 193), this four-day event held in early July draws thousands of people from across the country to hear live concerts by the likes of Def Leppard, Kansas, Alice Cooper, and REO Speedwagon. Children are not prohibited, but organizers note this is an event intended for adults and may not be appropriate for kids.
August: Leech Lake Regatta (218-547-1819; shoresofleechlake.com), 6166 Moriss Point Road, Walker. Race participation is $100 for early bird, $135 later; additional fees apply for boat mooring. This early-August event in a multiclass sailboat race for all skill levels. Many sailors opt to spend several days after the race on the water.