Lombok

Lombok is an easy hop from Bali. It has a spectacular, mostly deserted coastline with palm coves, Balinese Hindu temples, looming cliffs and epic surf. The majestic and sacred Gunung Rinjani rises from its centre – a challenging and rewarding climb.

The Gilis, a car-free collection of islands infused with a sun-drenched party vibe, are Lombok’s biggest draw, although the beautiful surf breaks and beaches of Kuta are fast gaining popularity.

8Getting There & Away

Air

ALombok international Airport (LOP; www.lombok-airport.co.id), near Praya, is getting ever more busy. There's good service to Bali and Java, with fewer services going east into Nusa Tenggara. Flights also serve the international hubs of Singapore and Kuala Lumpur. You’ll find travel agents for airline tickets in Kuta, Mataram and Senggigi.

Thanks to improved roads, the airport is only 30 minutes from both Mataram and Kuta and is well-linked to the rest of the island by road. Taxis offer fixed-price transport to major destinations. Damri operates tourist buses; buy tickets in the arrivals area.

Intense competition keeps fares for the quick jaunt to Bali cheap.

Boat

Public ferries connect Lembar on Lombok’s west coast with Bali, and Labuhan Lombok on its east coast with Sumbawa. Numerous fast boat companies link Lombok with the Gili islands and Bali. These are mostly centred on Senggigi.

Bus

Long-distance public buses depart daily from Mataram’s Mandalika terminal for major cities in Bali and Java in the west, and to Sumbawa in the east.

8Getting Around

Bus & Bemo

Mandalika, Lombok’s main bus/bemo terminal, is a hub for service. You can reach most corners of Lombok in under two hours.

Car & Motorcycle

It’s easy to hire a car in all the tourist areas (with/without driver per day from 600,000/300,000rp). Motorcycles are also widely available from about 70,000Rp per day.

Lembar

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Hassle-filled Lembar, Lombok’s main port, is where Bali ferries and Pelni ships dock. Ferries run hourly, day and night, to Padangbai on Bali (adult/motorcycle/car 44,000/123,000/879,000Rp, five to seven hours).

Bus connections are abundant and bemos run regularly to the Mandalika bus/bemo terminal (25,000Rp), so there’s no reason to linger. Taxis cost 80,000Rp to Mataram and 150,000Rp to Senggigi.

Mataram

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Lombok’s sprawling capital, actually a cluster of four towns – Ampenan (port), Mataram (administrative centre), Cakranegara (commercial centre) and Sweta (bus terminal) – has some allure. There are large malls, decent restaurants and a few cultural sights, but few travellers spend any time here.

1Sights

Pura MeruHINDU TEMPLE

( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Selaparang; admission 10,000Rp; h8am-5pm)

Pura Meru is the largest and second most important Hindu temple on Lombok. Built in 1720, it’s dedicated to the Hindu trinity of Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva. The inner court has 33 small shrines and three thatched, teak-wood meru (multi-tiered shrines). The central meru, with 11 tiers, is Shiva’s house; the meru to the north, with nine tiers, is Vishnu’s; and the seven-tiered meru to the south is Brahma’s.

Pura LingsarHINDU TEMPLE

(off Jl Gora II; grounds free, temple admission by donation; h7am-6pm)

This large temple compound is the holiest in Lombok. Built in 1714 by King Anak Agung Ngurah, and nestled beautifully in lush rice fields, it’s multidenominational, with a temple for Balinese Hindus (Pura Gaduh), and one for followers of Lombok’s mystical take on Islam, the Wektu Telu religion.

It's just 6km northeast of Mataram in the village of Lingsar. Take a bemo (minibus) from the Mandalika terminal to Narmada, then another to Lingsar. Ask to be dropped off near the entrance to the temple complex.

4Sleeping & Eating

Staying in central Mataram is a good way to fully engage with nontourist local life. Mataram Mall ( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Selaparang; h7am-9pm), and the streets around it, are lined with Western-style fast-food outlets, Indonesian noodle bars and warungs (food stalls). The mall is sprawling and offers a fascinating look at modern, consumer-driven Indonesia; it also has good cafes and a superb supermarket.

Hotel Melati ViktorGUESTHOUSE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0370-633830; Jl Abimanyu 1; r 150,000-250,000Rp; aW)

The high ceilings, 37 clean rooms and Balinese-style courtyard, complete with Hindu statues, make this one of the best-value places in town. The cheapest rooms have fans.

oIkan Bakar 99SEAFOOD$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0370-664 2819, 0370-643335; Jl Subak III 10; mains 20,000-55,000Rp; h11am-10pm)

Think squid, prawns, fish and crab, brushed with chilli sauce, perfectly grilled or fried, and drenched in spicy Padang or sticky sweet-and-sour sauce. You will dine among the Mataram families who fill the long tables in the arched, tiled dining room.

8Information

Banks on wide Jl Selaparang and Jl Pejanggik have ATMs. Most change foreign cash.

Rumah Sakit Harapan KeluargaHOSPITAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0370-670000; www.harapankeluarga.co.id; Jl Ahmad Yani 9; h24hr)

The best private hospital on Lombok is just east of downtown Mataram and has English-speaking doctors.

8Getting There & Around

The chaotic Mandalika terminal is 3km from the centre and is a bus and bemo hub. It’s surrounded by the city’s chaotic main market. Use the official ticket office to avoid touts. Yellow bemos shuttle to the centre (4000Rp).

Buses and bemos departing hourly from the Mandalika terminal include the following:

Destination	Distance	Fare	Duration
Kuta (via Praya & Sengkol)	54km	15,000Rp	90min
Labuhan Lombok	69km	15,000Rp	2hr
Lembar	22km	15,000Rp	30min
Airport	27km	15,000Rp	45min

Senggigi

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The beaches around the 10km of Senggigi's coast are hard to beat. Think: a series of sweeping bays with white-sand beaches, coconut palms, cliff and mountain backdrops, and blood-red sunset views of Bali’s Gunung Agung. Lombok's original tourist area, it's tatty along the main road and the 'karaoke bars' to the south are loud and illicit.

With the Gilis stealing all the cool, Senggigi is best used as a jumping off point to the rest of Lombok.

Senggigi

2Activities, Courses & Tours

1Blue MarlinB3

2Rinjani Trekking ClubC2

4Sleeping

3Hotel ElenC1

4Sendok HotelC3

5WiraC2

5Eating

6Cafe Tenda Cak PoerB1

7OfficeA1

1Sights & Activities

There’s decent snorkelling off the rocky point that bisects Senggigi’s sheltered bay in front of Windy Cottages; many hotels and restaurants in central Senggigi hire out mask/snorkel/fin sets for 50,000Rp per day. Diving trips from Senggigi normally visit the Gili Islands, so consider basing yourself there.

Stroll the beaches and/or make plans for an ascent of Gunung Rinjani.

Blue MarlinDIVING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0370-693719, 0370-613 2424; www.bluemarlindive.com; Holiday Resort Lombok, Jl Raya Senggigi; single dive trips 490,000Rp)

The local branch of a well-regarded Gili Trawangan dive shop; offers dive courses and trips.

Rinjani Trekking ClubADVENTURE SPORTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0817 573 0415, 0370-693202; www.info2lombok.com; Jl Raya Senggigi; h9am-8pm)

Well informed about routes and trail conditions on Gunung Rinjani, and offers a wide choice of guided hikes. It's the best of the many places hawking Rinjani treks along the strip.

4Sleeping

Senggigi has a lot of budget rooms, but beware of those south of the centre, which may be rattled by the all-night blare of 'karaoke' joints.

oWiraGUESTHOUSE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0370-692153; www.thewira.com; Jl Raya Senggigi; dm from 100,000Rp, r 250,000-450,000Rp; aW)

This boutique losmen (a type of budget accommodation) is on the beach side of the main Senggigi strip. It has 11 simple, tasteful, sizeable rooms with bamboo furnishings and private porches out back. There is also a 10-bed fan-cooled dorm room. Use the quiet entrance on the side street, away from Jl Raya Senggigi.

Hotel ElenHOTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0370-693077; Jl Raya Senggigi; r fan/air-con from 120,000/200,000Rp; aW)

Elen is the long-time backpackers' choice. Rooms are very basic, but those facing the waterfall fountain and koi pond come with spacious tiled patios that catch the ocean breeze.

Sendok HotelINN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0370-693176; www.sendokhotellombok.com; Jl Raya Senggigi; r fan/air-con from 250,000/400,000Rp; aWs)

This guesthouse is more attractive than the (friendly) pub behind which it sits. The 28 rooms pair lovely Javanese antiques with garish tiles, and have high ceilings and decent bathrooms; all are bright and airy with their own private front porch. Some rooms have hot water.

5Eating & Drinking

Senggigi’s dining scene ranges from tourist-friendly dining to simple warungs. Many places offer free transport for evening diners – phone for a ride. Few miss the chance to enjoy a sunset beverage at one of the many low-key places along the beach.

Cafe Tenda Cak PoerINDONESIAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Raya Senggigi; mains 12,000-20,000Rp; h6pm-late)

Barely enclosed, this roadside warung (food stall) wows the stool-sitting masses with hot-outta-the-wok Indo classics. Get the nasi goreng (fried rice) made extra hot (ekstra pedas) and with extra garlic (bawang putih ekstra) and you'll be smiling through tears and sweating.

OfficeINTERNATIONAL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0370-693162; Jl Raya Senggigi, Pasar Seni; mains 25,000-70,000Rp; h9am-10pm)

This pub near the euphemistic 'art market' offers typical Indonesian and Western choices along with pool tables, ball games and barflies. It also has a Thai menu, which is the choice of those in the know. Tables on the sand near fishing boats are among Senggigi's best places for a relaxed sunset drink.

oCoco BeachINDONESIAN$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0817 578 0055; Pantai Kerandangan; mains from 60,000Rp; hnoon-10pm; v)

This wonderful beachside restaurant has a blissfully secluded setting off the main road. It's pretty and stylish, with many choices for vegetarians. The nasi goreng is locally renowned and the seafood is the best in the area. It has a full bar and blends its own authentic jamu tonics (herbal medicines). It's about 2km north of central Senggigi.

8Information

The main drag groans with ATMs.

8Getting There & Around

Fast boats to Bali leave from the large pier right in the centre of the beach. A ticket office is out on the pier.

Marina SrikandiBOAT

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0361 729818; marinasrikandi.com; Senggigi Pier; one-way from 375,000Rp)

Has daily fast boats to Padangbai.

PeramaBUS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0370-693008; www.peramatour.com; Jl Raya Senggigi; h8am-8pm)

Has an economical shuttle-bus service that connects with the public ferry from Lembar to Padangba, Balii (125,000Rp), from where there are onward shuttle-bus connections to Sanur, Kuta and Ubud (all 175,000Rp). These trips can take eight or more hours. It also offers a bus and boat connection to the Gilis for a reasonable 150,000Rp (two hours). It saves some hassle at Bangsal Harbour.

Regular bemos travel between Senggigi and Ampenan’s Kebon Roek terminal (3000Rp), where you can connect to Mataram. wave them down on the main drag. There’s no public bemo service north to Bangsal Harbour. A metered taxi costs about 90,000Rp.

Damri runs buses to/from the airport (30,000Rp, 90 minutes). Metered taxis to the airport in Praya cost about 150,000Rp and take an hour.

A taxi to Lembar is 150,000Rp.

Gunung Rinjani

Lombok’s highest peak, and the second-highest volcano in Indonesia, Gunung Rinjani (3726m) supports a smattering of villages and is of great climatic importance to Lombok. The Balinese call it ‘the seat of the Gods’ and place it alongside Gunung Agung in spiritual lore. Lombok’s Sasaks also revere it and make biannual pilgrimages to honour the mountain spirit.

It a legendary climb. Reach the summit and look down upon a 6km-wide caldera with a crescent-shaped cobalt lake, hot springs and smaller volcanic cones. The stunning sunrise view from the rim takes in north Lombok, Bali’s Gunung Agung and the Indian Ocean, drenched in an unforgettable pink hue.

Note that eruptions in 2015 closed the peak to trekkers at various times.

TREKKING GUNUNG RINJANI

Treks to the rim, lake and peak should not be taken lightly, and guides are mandatory. June to August is the best trekking season. During the wet season (November to April), tracks can be slippery and dangerous.

Good Senaru outfitters include John's Adventures (%0817 578 8018; www.rinjanimaster.com; Senaru) and Rudy Trekker (%0818 0365 2874; www.rudytrekker.com; Senaru). You can also make arrangements in Sengiggi. The official website for Rinjani National Park (Taman Nasional Gunung Rinjani; %0370-660 8874; www.rinjaninationalpark.com) has good maps, plus info and a useful section on reported scams by dodgy hiking operators.

The most common trek is to climb from Senaru to Pos III (2300m) on the first day (about five hours of steep walking), camp there and climb to Pelawangan I, on the crater rim (2600m), for sunrise the next morning (about two hours). From the rim, you can descend into the crater and walk around to the hot springs (two hours) on a very exposed track. The hot springs, revered by locals for their healing properties, are a good place to relax and camp for the second night.

Or continue east from the hot springs and camp at Pelawangan II (about 2900m). From there a track branches off to the summit. It’s a heroic climb (three or four hours) over loose footing to the top (3726m). Start at 3am so that you can glimpse the sunrise on the summit.

The most popular package is the three-day, two-night trek from Senaru to Sembalun Lawang via the summit. It includes food, equipment, guide, porters, park fee and transport back to Senaru, and costs about US$300 per person.

Bring several layers of clothing, solid footwear, rain gear, extra water (do not depend on your guide for your water supply) and a torch (flashlight). Buy food and supplies in Mataram or Senggigi. People die every year on the mountain – it shouldn’t be approached lightly.

Senaru

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With sweeping views and an eternal spring climate, the mountain village of Senaru is the best base for Rinjani climbs. Be sure to make the 20-minute walk to the spectacular waterfall, Air Terjun Sindang Gila (admission 10,000Rp).

4Sleeping & Eating

All of Senaru’s places to stay and eat are strung along the 6.5km-long road that starts in Bayan and runs uphill via Batu Koq to the main Gunung Rinjani park office.

oRinjani LighthouseGUESTHOUSE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0818 0548 5480; www.rinjanilighthouse.mm.st; r 350,000-800,000Rp; W)

Set on a wide plateau just 200m from the Rinjani park office, this impressive guesthouse (with hot water) has thatched-roof bungalows in sizes ranging from double to family. The owners are founts of Rinjani info.

Pondok Senaru & RestaurantLODGE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0818 0362 4129; pondoksenaru@yahoo.com; r 250,000-700,000Rp; aW)

This place has 14 lovely little cottages (most fan-only) with terracotta-tiled roofs, and some well-equipped superior rooms with such niceties as hot water. The restaurant, with tables perched on the edge of a rice-terraced valley, is a sublime place for a meal (mains 20,000Rp to 50,000Rp; open 7am to 9pm). It's at the waterfall entrance.

8Getting There & Away

From Mandalika terminal in Mataram, catch a bus to Anyar (25,000Rp to 30,000Rp, 2½ hours). Bemos no longer run from Anyar to Senaru, so you’ll have to charter an ojek (per person from 20,000Rp, depending on your luggage).

Kuta

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What could be a better gateway to the wonderful beaches of South Lombok? Imagine a crescent bay, turquoise in the shallows and deep blue further out, where rollers crash on a reef 300m from shore. The water licks a huge, white-sand beach, as wide as a football pitch and framed by headlands. Now imagine a coastline of nearly a dozen such bays, all backed by a rugged range of coastal hills spotted with lush patches of banana trees and tobacco fields, and you’ll have a notion of Kuta’s immediate appeal.

Among the area's beaches seek out Tanjung An (or variously Aan or Ann), an empty horseshoe bay with looming headlands. Pantai Segar is likewise gorgeous. Note that construction of a long-rumoured huge international resort here has finally begun.

2Activities

For surfing, stellar lefts and rights break on the reefs off Kuta Bay (Telek Kuta) and east of Tanjung An. Boatmen will take you out for around 150,000Rp. Seven kilometres east of Kuta is the fishing village of Gerupuk, where there’s a series of reef breaks, both close to the shore and further out, but they require a boat, at a negotiable 300,000Rp per day. However savvy surfers buzz past Gerupuk and take the road to to Ekas, where crowds are thin and surf is plentiful.

West of Kuta you’ll find Mawan, a stunning swimming beach, and Mawi, a popular surf paradise with world-class swells and a strong rip current.

Kimen SurfSURFING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0370-655064; www.kuta-lombok.net; Jl ke Mawan; board rental per day 100,000Rp, lessons per person from 500,000Rp; h9am-8pm)

Swell forecasts, tips, kite-surfing, board rental, repairs and lessons. It runs guided excursions to breaks such as Gerupuk (400,000Rp).

Scuba FroggyDIVING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0877 6510 6945; www.scubafroggy.com; Jl ke Mawan; open-water course US$360; h9am-8pm)

Runs local trips to a dozen sites, most no deeper than 18m. From June to November they also run trips to the spectacular and challenging ocean pinnacles in Blongas Bay, famous for schooling hammerheads and mobula rays. Snorkelling trips are 150,000Rp.

4Sleeping

Most accommodation is on or within walking distance of the beach. Simple guesthouses and cafes dominate. A dearth of street names makes navigation an adventure.

oBombara BungalowsGUESTHOUSE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0370-615 8056; bomborabungalows@yahoo.com; Jl Raya Kuta; r 350,000-450,000Rp; aWs)

One of the best places for a low-cost stay in Kuta, these eight (some fan-cooled) bungalows are built around a lovely pool area. Coconut palms shade loungers and the entire place feels like an escape from the hubbub of town. The staff understands the needs of surfers, and everyone else for that matter.

Bule HomestayGUESTHOUSE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0819 1799 6256; bulehomestay.com; Jl Raya Bypass; r 250,000-300,000Rp; aW)

Although it's about 2km back from the beach near the junction of Jl Raya Kuta and Jl Raya Bypass, this eight-bungalow complex is worth consideration simply for the snappy way it's run. Dirt doesn't dare enter the small compound, where rooms gleam with a hospital white. It is surrounded by a wall that could have been in The Flintstones.

Sekar KuningINN$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0370-615 4856; Jl Raya Pantai Kuta; r from 200,000Rp; aW)

A charming beach-road inn. Tiled rooms have high ceilings, pastel paint jobs, ceiling fans, and bamboo furniture on the patio. Top-floor rooms have ocean views and are more expensive.

Mimpi ManisB&B$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0818 369 950; www.mimpimanis.com; off Jl Raya Kuta; r 150,000-350,000Rp; aW)

An inviting English–Balinese-owned B&B in a two-storey house with three spotless rooms (one with air-con), with en-suite showers, TVs and DVD players. There are plenty of good books to browse and DVDs to borrow. It’s 1km inland from the beach; the owners offer a free drop-off service to the beach and town, and arrange bike and motorbike rental.

5Eating & Drinking

Full Moon CafeCAFE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Raya Pantai Kuta; mains from 30,000Rp; h8am-late; W)

Right across from the beach, the second-floor cafe here is like a tree house with killer ocean views. The menu has all the standards, from banana pancakes to various Indo rice creations. Come for the view and sunset, then hang out.

Warung BuleSEAFOOD$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0819 1799 6256; Jl Raya Pantai Kuta; mains 40,000-250,000Rp; h8am-10pm; W)

Arguably the best restaurant in Kuta, founded by the long-time executive chef at the Novotel, who delivers tropical seafood tastes at an affordable price. We like the tempura starter. His trio of lobster, prawns and mahi mahi might have you cooing. It gets very busy in high season, so be prepared for a wait.

Warung RastaBAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0882 1907 1744; Jl Raya Pantai Kuta; h8am-late)

The local owners of this barely there shack of a bar have created a laid-back party vibe that draws in crowds each night. Guitars get strummed and surfers compete in 'strawpedo' contests that involve beer-chugging with the strategic aid of straws. Hungry? Enjoy cheap Indo standards.

8Information

Wi-fi is common and there are ATMs.

Reports of deals gone bad make it worthwhile to rent a vehicle or motorcycle only from your accommodation.

As you venture up the coastal road west and east of Kuta, watch your back – especially after dark. There have been reports of muggings in the area.

8Getting There & Away

You’ll need at least three bemos to get here just from Mataram. Take one from Mataram’s Mandalika terminal to Praya (15,000Rp), another to Sengkol (5000Rp) and a third to Kuta (5000Rp).

Simpler are the daily tourist buses serving Mataram (125,000Rp) plus Senggigi and Lembar (both 150,000Rp).

Ride-share cars are widely advertised around town. Destinations include: Bangsal for Gili islands public boats (160,000Rp), Seminyak (Bali) via the public ferry (200,000Rp), and Senaru (400,000Rp).

A taxi to the airport costs 60,000Rp.

Labuhan Lombok

You’re here to catch a Sumbawa-bound ferry. Frequent buses and bemos travel between Labuhan Lombok and Mandalika terminal (35,000Rp, 2½ hours) in Mataram. Some buses drop you at the port entrance road. If they do, catch another bemo to the ferry terminal: it’s too far to walk.

Ferries run hourly, 24 hours a day, to Poto Tano (19,000Rp, 1½ hours).

Gili Islands

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Picture three minuscule desert islands, fringed by white-sand beaches and coconut palms, sitting in a turquoise sea: the Gilis are a vision of paradise. These islets have exploded in popularity, and are booming like nowhere else in Indonesia – speedboats zip visitors direct from Bali and a hip new hotel opens practically every month.

It’s not hard to understand the Gilis’ unique appeal, for a serenity endures (no motorcycles or dogs!) and a green consciousness is growing. Development has been more tasteful than rapacious and there are few concrete eyesores.

Each island has its own special character. Trawangan (universally known as Gili T) is by far the most cosmopolitan, its bar and party scene vibrant, its accommodation and restaurants close to definitive tropical chic. Gili Air has the strongest local character, but also a perfect mix of bustle and languor. Meno is simply a desert-island getaway, albeit one with growing buzz.

2Activities

Diving around the Gilis is great. Marine life is plentiful and varied. Turtles and black- and white-tip reef sharks are common, and the macro life (small stuff) is excellent, with seahorses, pipefish and lots of crustaceans. Around full moon, large schools of bumphead parrot fish appear to feast on coral spawns, while at other times of year, mantas soar.

Safety standards are generally high in the Gilis. Rates are fixed (no matter who you dive with) at about 500,000Rp a dive, with discounts for packages of five dives or more. A PADI open-water course costs 5,500,000Rp.

Snorkelling is fun and the fish are plentiful on all the beach reefs. Gear can be rented for 50,000Rp per day. You can get to good sites right off the beaches, no boat needed.

Walking and cycling are the best land activities. Bikes can be hired from 50,000Rp per day (although island paths sometimes have soft sand that bogs down bikes). On Trawangan, time your circumnavigation (2½ hours on foot) with the sunset, and watch it from the hill on the southwest corner, where you’ll have a tremendous view of Bali’s Gunung Agung.

Beaches are deceiving as each island seems ringed by perfect white sand – although you'll soon discover that many of the beaches have coral and rocks right up to the water's edge, making just getting in and out (not to mention swimming) a literal pain. However, each island has stretches of sand bordering open water where conditions are idyllic.

8Information

Wi-fi is widespread. Gili T and Air have ATMs.

Dangers & Annoyances

There are seldom police on any of the Gilis (though this is changing). Report thefts to the island kepala desa (village head) immediately, who will deal with the issue; staff at the dive schools will direct you to him.

Although it's rare, some women have experienced sexual harassment and even assault while on the Gilis – walk home in pairs to the quieter parts of the islands.

As tranquil as these seas do appear, currents are strong in the channels between the islands. Do not try to swim between Gilis – it can be deadly.

The drug trade remains endemic to Trawangan.

Tourists have been injured and killed by adulterated arak on the Gilis; skip it.

8Getting There & Away

Private Boats

Fast boats advertise swift connections (about two hours) between Bali and Gili Trawangan. They leave from several departure points in Bali, including Serangan, Sanur, Padangbai and Amed. Some go via Nusa Lembongan. Many dock at Teluk Nare on Lombok north of Senggigi before continuing onto Air and Trawangan (you'll have to transfer for Meno). Note that with land connections and various stops, your travel time may be much greater than advertised.

The website Gili Bookings (www.gilibookings.com) presents a range of fast-boat operations. Book well ahead in July and August. One-way fares (with transport to/from tourist areas of Bali) average about US$60 but are negotiable at slow times.

Be warned that the sea between Bali and Lombok can get very rough (particularly during rainy season). For more on safety, see here.

Long-running operators include:

Amed Sea ExpressBOAT

(%0878 6306 4799; www.gili-sea-express.com; per person from 600,000Rp)

Makes 75-minute crossings to Amed on a large speedboat; this makes many interesting itineraries possible. Also serves Sanur.

Blue Water ExpressBOAT

(%0361-895 1111; www.bluewater-express.com; one-way from 750,000Rp)

From Serangan and Padangbai (Bali), to Teluk Kade, Gili T and Gili Air.

Gili GetawayBOAT

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0813 3707 4147; www.giligetaway.com; one-way from 675,000Rp; hGili T office 9am-8pm)

Very professional; links Serangan on Bali with Gili T and Gili Air.

PeramaBOAT

(%0361-750808; www.peramatour.com; per person 225,000Rp; hGili T office 9am-8pm)

Links Padangbai, the Gilis and Senggigi by a not-so-fast boat.

Public Boats

Coming from other parts of Lombok, most people use the public boats that leave from Bangsal Harbour. (Beware of touts.)

Coming by public transport via Mataram and Senggigi, catch a bus or bemo to Pemenang, from where it’s a 1.2km walk (5000Rp by ojek) to Bangsal Harbour. A metered taxi to the port will take you to the harbour.

Public boats run to all three islands before 11am; after that you may only find one to Gili T or Gili Air. Public boats in both directions leave when the boat is full (about 30 people). When no public boat is running to your Gili, you may have to charter a boat (400,000Rp to 500,000Rp, carries up to 25 people).

One-way fares are 10,000Rp to Gili Air, 12,000Rp to Gili Meno and 15,000Rp to Gili Trawangan. Boats often pull up on the beaches; be prepared to wade ashore. Public fast boats also link Gili T, Gili Air and Bangsal; they run several times a day and cost 100,000Rp. Buy tickets at the large office.

Arriving in Bangsal, you’ll be offered rides in shared vehicles at the port. To Senggigi, 100,000Rp is a fair price. Otherwise, walk 500m down the access road past the huge new tsunami shelter to the Bluebird Lombok Taksi stand (always the best taxi choice) for metered rides to Senggigi (90,000Rp), the airport (200,000Rp) and Kuta (300,000Rp).

Getting Around

There’s a twice-daily island-hopping boat service that loops between all three islands (35,000Rp to 40,000Rp), so you can sample another Gili’s pleasures for the day – although you can’t hit all three in one day by public boat. Check the latest timetable at the islands’ docks.

Cidomos (horse carts) operate as taxis; prices have soared in recent years. even a short ride can cost 50,000Rp. For an hour-long clip-clop around an island expect to pay at least 100,000Rp. We cannot recommend using cidomos due to significant questions about the treatment of the horses.

Gili Air

Closest to Lombok, for many Air is 'just right'. It has great eating and drinking options to rival Gili T, but lacks the frenetic crowds. The southern and eastern coasts have the best swimming beaches. Walking around the island takes about 90 minutes and you'll find minimal development along most of the north and west coasts.

Gili Air

2Activities, Courses & Tours

17 SeasC3

2Blue Marine Dive CentreC1

3H2O YogaC2

4Sleeping

47 SeasC3

5Bintang Beach 2B1

6DamaiC1

7Gili Air HostelC3

8Villa Casa MioB3

5Eating

9Eazy Gili WaroengC3

10Pasar MalamC3

11Warung Sasak IIC3

6Drinking & Nightlife

12Legend BarC1

13Little BarC1

2Activities

Blue Marine Dive CentreDIVING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0812 377 0288; www.bluemarinedive.com; night dives 570,000Rp)S

Has a nice location on the beautiful northeast corner of the island. Offers free-diving courses. The owner is very active in reef preservation efforts.

7 SeasDIVING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0370-663 2150; www.7seasdivegili.com; 4-day TEC diving packages 6,400,000Rp)S

A vast dive shop with a range of accommodation and a good pool for training or just playing. A local leader in recycling.

H2O YogaYOGA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0877 6103 8836; www.h2oyogaandmeditation.com; classes 100,000Rp, 3hr workshops 300,000Rp)

This wonderful yoga and meditation retreat centre is set back from the beach on a well-signed path in the village. Top-quality classes are held in a lovely circular beruga. Massage is also available, and there's candlelight yoga at 5pm.

4Sleeping

Gili Air’s 50 or so places to stay are located mostly on the east coast. You’ll find more isolation in the west.

oGili Air HostelHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.giliairhostel.com; dm/r from 125,000/350,000Rp; hreception 7.30am-7pm; aW)

A great addition to the island. Beds here are in two- to seven-bed rooms, all of which share baths. The decor defines cheery, and there's a cool bar, a huge frangipani tree and even a climbing wall.

oBintang Beach 2BUNGALOW$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0877 6522 2554; r from 350,000Rp; a)

On Gili Air's quiet northwest coast, this sandy but tidy compound has basic rooms and bungalows that range from budget-friendly and fan-cooled to mildly snazzy. The bar area is a delight. This enterprising clan has a few other guesthouses nearby.

oVilla Casa MioBUNGALOW$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0370-646160; www.villacasamio.com; cottages from 900,000Rp; aWs)

Casa Mio has fine cottages with pretty garden bathrooms, as well as a riot of knick-knacks (from the artistic to the kitsch). Rooms have fridges, stereos and nice sun decks with loungers. The casa also boasts a lovely beach area, and good access via a paved portion of the beach lane from the boat landing. Several competitors have sprung up nearby.

7 SeasHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0819 0700 3240; www.7seas-cottages.com; dm from 80,000Rp, r 450,000-800,000Rp; aWs)

Part of the 7 Seas dive empire, this is an attractive bungalow compound in a great location. Rooms are tidy and comfy; cottages have soaring ceilings and thatch. There are also fan-cooled, bamboo, loftlike hostel rooms.

DamaiGUESTHOUSE$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0878 6142 0416; www.facebook.com/damaihomestay.giliair; r 450,000-650,000Rp; aW)

It’s worth seeking out this thatched enclave. The 11 rooms range from basic bungalows to deluxe crash pads, which are tasteful and open onto a garden. The cosy dining patio has cushioned seating, and is elegantly lit with paper lanterns.

5Eating & Drinking

Most places on Gili Air offer an unbeatable setting for a meal, with tables right over the water facing Lombok's Gunung Rinjani. Almost every place closes by 10pm.

oEazy Gili WaroengINDONESIAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; mains 25,000-40,000Rp; h8am-10pm)

In the buzzy main village, this spotless corner cafe serves up local fare aimed at visitors. It's the slightly Westernised face of the beloved Warung Muslim, immediately to the east. They also do breakfasts, sandwiches and a superb pisang goreng (fried banana).

Warung Sasak IIINDONESIAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; mains from 15,000Rp; h8am-10pm)

A fine find in the village, this dead simple warung has excellent versions of all the standards such as chicken satay and fish curry. It also has many variations on parapek, a Sasak speciality where foods are cooked in a spicy sauce.

Pasar MalamMARKET$

(Night Market; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; mains from 15,000Rp; h6-11pm)

Inspired by the wild success of the night market on Gili T, Air's has the requisite stalls with fresh Indo fare arrayed around open-air tables. It gets lively after 8pm. Half the fun is just browsing.

oLegend BarBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h7am-late)

Painted the requisite Rasta colours of red, green and gold, this raffish reggae bar has a large dance party every full moon.

Little BarCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h9am-late)

Set on a sublime stretch of beach with technicolour sunsets, there is no better place for a sundowner than Little Bar. The menu includes snacks and veggie options.

Gili Meno

Gili Meno is the smallest of the three islands and a good setting for your desert-island fantasy. Meno has a certain Robinson Crusoe charm, although new resorts under construction will mean Crusoe will have to upgrade to some fancier digs.

Most accommodation is strung out along the east coast, near the most picturesque beach. Inland you’ll find scattered homesteads, coconut plantations and a salty lake. However the once-lonely west coast is seeing some high-profile development, including an enormous beachside condo project set to open in 2017.

Gili Meno

2Activities, Courses & Tours

1Gili Meno DiversB3

4Sleeping

2Gili Meno Eco HostelB1

3Kebun Kupu KupuA2

4Tao KomboB3

5Eating

5Sasak CafeA2

6Webe CaféA1

6Drinking & Nightlife

7Diana CaféA2

2Activities

Gili Meno DiversDIVING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0878 6536 7551; www.giliairdivers.com; Kontiki Cottages; introductory dives from 900,000Rp; h9am-5pm)

French and Indonesian owned; offers a range of courses including some good ones in underwater photography.

4Sleeping

oGili Meno Eco HostelHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0878 6249 2062; gilimenoecohostel.com; dm/r from 90,000/200,000Rp; W)S

A fantasy in driftwood, this is the place you dream about staying when you're stuck in the snow waiting for a train. A volleyball court, groovy lounge, tree house, beach bar and much more open right onto the sand. Recycling and other ecofriendly practices, such as using sustainable construction materials, are a feature.

Tao KomboBUNGALOW$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0878 6033 1373; www.tao-kombo.com; r 200,000-400,000Rp; W)S

This innovatively designed place has seven lumbung cottages with thatched roofs, stone floors and outdoor bathrooms. It's home to the popular Jungle Bar, and is 200m inland from the main strip. The owners are heavily involved in community projects; the whole place is run with an eye to sustainability.

oKebun Kupu KupuGUESTHOUSE$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0819 0742 8165; www.kupumenoresort.com; r from 800,000Rp; aWs)

Situated 300m from the beach, this collection of bungalows (the ones made from wood are lovely) has a great pool, palm trees overhead and a quiet spot near the salt lake. The French owners honour their heritage by serving excellent food (the crème brûlée is particularly good).

5Eating & Drinking

Almost all of Meno’s restaurants have absorbing sea views. Here ‘dressing for dinner’ means putting on clothes.

oSasak CafeINDONESIAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; mains 25,000-80,000Rp; hkitchen 7am-9pm, bar till late)

Considering its out-of-the-way location, this bamboo-and-thatch, island-casual hang-out has tasty Indo standards, which literally take on a rosey glow when the sun sets. The tunes and the drinks flow late into the night.

Webe CaféINDONESIAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0821 4776 3187; mains from 25,000Rp; h8am-10pm; W)

A wonderful location for a meal, Webe Café has low tables sunk in the sand, with the turquoise water just a metre away. It scores well for Sasak and Indonesian food such as kelak kuning (snapper in yellow spice); staff fire up a seafood barbecue most nights too. There are also basic bungalows for rent (from 400,000Rp).

Diana CaféBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h8am-9pm)

If you find the pace of life on Meno too busy, head to this intoxicating little tiki bar par excellence. Diana couldn't be simpler: a wobbly looking bamboo-and-thatch bar, a few tables on the sand, a shack offering tattoos, a hammock or two, reggae on the stereo and a chill-out zone.

Gili Trawangan

Gili Trawangan is a paradise of global repute, ranking alongside Bali and Borobudur as one of Indonesia’s top destinations. Trawangan’s heaving main drag, busy with bikes, horse carts and mobs of scantily clad visitors, can surprise those expecting some languid tropical retreat. Instead, a wall-to-wall roster of lounge bars, hip guesthouses, ambitious restaurants, minimarts and dive schools clamour for attention.

And yet behind this glitzy facade, a bohemian character endures, with rickety warungs and reggae joints surviving between the cocktail tables, and quiet retreats dotting the much less busy north coast. Even as massive 200-plus-room hotels begin to colonise the still mostly wild and ragged west coast, you can head just inland to a village laced with sandy lanes roamed by free-range roosters, kibbutzing ibu (mothers) and wild-haired kids playing hopscotch. Here the call of the muezzin, not happy hour, defines the time of day.

Gili Trawangan

2Activities, Courses & Tours

1Big BubbleC2

2Lutwala DiveB1

4Sleeping

3Eden CottagesB1

4Gili HostelC2

5Pondok Gili GeckoC2

6Sama Sama BungalowsC3

7SoundwavesC2

8WoodstockC1

5Eating

9Kayu CaféD3

10La Dolce VitaC3

11Pasar MalamD3

12Warung Kiki NoviC3

6Drinking & Nightlife

13La MoombaC1

14Tir na NogC3

15Vintage Sunset BeachA3

2Activities

Gili T is ringed by the sort of powdery white sand people expect to find on Bali (but don’t). It can be crowded along the bar-lined main part of the strip, but walk just a bit north or south and east and you’ll find some of Gili T’s nicest beaches for swimming and snorkelling. You can find even more solitude along the west and north coasts, where it will be just you and your towel on the sand – although water- and Bintang-vendors are never far away.

Note that at low tide large portions of the west and north coasts have rocks and coral near the surface, which makes trying to get off the shore deeply unpleasant. The reef is in good shape off the northwest coast but rocks and coral make access difficult.

oLutwala DiveDIVING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0877 65492615; www.lutwala.com; divemaster courses 14,000,000Rp)S

A nitrox and five-star PADI centre owned by Fern Perry, who held the women's world-record for deepest open-circuit dive (190m). A GIDA member, it also rents top-quality snorkelling gear.

Big BubbleDIVING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0370-612 5020; www.bigbubblediving.com; fun dives day/night 490,000/600,000Rp)S

The original engine behind the Gili Eco Trust, and a long-running dive school. It's a GIDA member.

Freedive GiliDIVING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0370-614 0503; www.freedivegili.com; beginner/advanced courses US$275/375)

Free-diving is an advanced breath-hold technique that allows you to explore much deeper depths than snorkelling (to 30m and beyond). Trawangan's professional school is owned by an expert diver who has touched 90m on a single breath, and offers two-day beginner and three-day advanced courses. After a two-day course many students are able to get down to 20m on a single breath of air.

Gili YogaYOGA

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0370-614 0503; www.giliyoga.com; per person from 100,000Rp)

Runs daily vinyasa classes, and is part of Freedive Gili.

4Sleeping

Cheap places are inland from the main strip and are actually some of the most serene choices on Gili T, as the lanes back here are quiet and flower-lined. Book ahead in July and August.

oGili HostelHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0877 6526 7037; www.gilihostel.com; dm from 175,000Rp; aWs)

This co-ed dorm complex has a shaggy Torajan-style roof. The seven rooms each sleep seven, and have concrete floors, high ceilings and a sleeping loft. There's a rooftop bar with beanbags, sun loungers and hammocks, plus views of the treetops, the hills and the big party pool.

Sama Sama BungalowsBUNGALOW$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0370-612 1106; r 300,000-550,000Rp; aW)

Just a few metres from where the fast boats drop you on the beach, the eight lumbung-style units here are perfect if you want to be right in the very heart of the action.

Pondok Gili GeckoGUESTHOUSE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0818 0573 2814; r from 250,000Rp; W)

An inviting guesthouse with a charming gecko motif. The four rooms are super clean, and have ceiling fans and private tiled patios overlooking the garden.

oEden CottagesCOTTAGE$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0819 1799 6151; www.edencottages.com; cottages 550,000-850,000Rp; as)

Six clean, thatched concrete bungalows wrapped around a pool, fringed by a garden and shaded by a coconut grove. Rooms have tasteful furnishings, stone baths, TV-DVD and fresh-cold-water showers. The owner avoids wi-fi, which only increases the serenity.

SoundwavesBUNGALOW$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0819 3673 2404; www.soundwavesresort.com; r 400,000-700,000Rp; aW)

The 13 rooms here are simple and clean with tiled floors. Some are set in wooden A-frames, others in a two-storey concrete building with staggered and recessed patios offering beach views from each room. Some rooms are fan-only.

WoodstockBUNGALOW$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0821 4765 5877; www.woodstockgili.com; r fan/air-con from 540,000-600,000Rp; aWs)

The hippest spot on Trawangan. Commune with the spirit of the Dead, Baez and Hendrix in 12 pristine rooms with tribal accents, private porches and outdoor baths, which surround a laid-back pool area.

5Eating

With more than a hundred places for a meal, you'll be spoilt for choice. There's few interesting options in the west, so picnic as you perambulate.

oPasar MalamMARKET$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; mains 15,000-30,000Rp; h6pm-midnight)

Blooming every evening in front of Gili T's market, this night market is the place to indulge in ample local eats, including tangy noodle soup, savoury fried treats, scrumptious ayam goreng (fried chicken) and grilled fresh catch. Just wandering around the stalls (we like Green Cafe) looking at all the dishes vying for your attention will get you drooling. Seating is at long tables.

La Dolce VitaITALIAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; mains 20,000-40,000Rp; h7.30am-5pm Tue-Sun)

There comes that moment when another nasi goreng will just make you turn nasty. Don't delay, hop right on over to this little cafe that's not much bigger than one of its excellent espressos. Slices of authentic pizza and a whole range of pastries are joined by daily specials to sate the ravenous.

Warung Kiki NoviINDONESIAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; mains from 15,000Rp; h8am-10pm)

Long-time islanders will tell you that this is the best place for nasi campur (rice with a choice of side dishes) in the Gilis, and they are right; this cheery dining room is the scene of budget-dining nirvana. Besides fine Indo mains there's a smattering of Western sandwiches and salads.

oKayu CaféCAFE$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0878 6239 1308; mains 40,000-80,000Rp; h8am-10pm; W)

There are two options here: the main cafe on the inland side of the strip has a lovely array of healthy baked goods, salads, sandwiches and the island's best juices, all served in air-con comfort. Across the road the beach cafe is all open air and exposed wood. Service on the sand can be slow – head inside to order.

6Drinking & Nightlife

The island has oodles of beachside drinking dens, ranging from sleek lounge bars to simple shacks. Parties are held several nights a week, shifting between mainstay bars (such as Tir na Nog and Rudy’s Pub) and various upstarts.

oLa MoombaBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h10am-midnight)

If you wish to chill on a luscious white beach, with bamboo lounges and reggae pumping from the tiki bar, head to La Moomba, Trawangan's best beach bar.

Vintage Sunset BeachBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h11am-10pm)

The kind of sunset bar that you won't want to leave after the sun has set. While strains of Billie Holiday add mellifluous accents to the lapping surf, enjoy excellent Jamaican food (the spicy chicken, yum!; mains from 60,000Rp). Or just let the sand caress your toes as you hang low in a hammock.

Tir na NogPUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0370-613 9463; h7am-2am Thu-Tue, to 4am Wed; W)

Known simply as 'The Irish', this hanger of hangovers has a sports-bar interior with big screens. Enjoy tasty chow such as kebabs (mains 35,000Rp to 80,000Rp). Its shoreside open-air bar is the probably the busiest meeting spot on the island. Jovial mayhem reigns on Wednesday nights when the DJ takes over.

CULTURAL RESPECT

As you get offered your 100th magic mushroom it may be hard to remember that Gili T is a devout Muslim island, but it is. Strolling the lanes barely clad in your bathing suit, going topless and snogging in general are best done in private. The entire island dials it down a notch during Ramadan.

Sumbawa

Elaborately contorted and sprawling into the sea, Sumbawa is all volcanic ridges, terraced rice fields, dry expanses and sheltered bays. Two main areas draw visitors: the southwest coast from Maluk is essentially a layered series of headlands and wide, white beaches with renowned surf, while in the southeast near Hu'u, Lakey Peak has become Sumbawa’s premier year-round surf magnet.

Though well connected to Lombok, Sumbawa is a very different sort of place. It’s far less developed, much poorer and conservatively Islamic. Transport connections off the cross-island road are infrequent and uncomfortable, and most overland travellers don’t even get off the bus as they roll from Lombok to Flores. For now, it’s the domain of surfers, miners and mullahs.

Dangers & Annoyances

Most Sumbawans are hospitable, albeit taciturn, but you may encounter some tension. In the past, protests against foreign-owned mining operations have turned violent. The island is also much more religiously conservative than neighbouring Lombok or Flores; behave modestly at all times.

8Getting There & Around

Ferries link Labuhan Lombok and Poto Tano. In the east, Sape has ferries to Labuanbajo, Flores.

Sumbawa’s main highway is in good condition and runs from Taliwang (near the west coast) through Sumbawa Besar, Dompu and Bima to Sape (the ferry port on the east coast). It's relatively traffic-free – a relief if you've made the trek through Java, Bali and Lombok. Fleets of long-distance buses, most of them air-conditioned, run between the west coast ferry port of Porto Tano and Sape, serving all the major towns between.

Car hire is possible through hotels: prices are about 600,000Rp to 800,000Rp per day, including a driver. Motorcycles cost 50,000Rp to 80,000Rp a day.

Poto Tano

Poto Tano is the Lombok-bound ferry port; there’s no reason to hang around. Most travellers pass straight through to the beaches around Maluk or continue east towards Flores.

8Getting There & Around

Ferries run hourly, 24 hours a day, between Labuhan Lombok and Poto Tano (passengers 19,000Rp, 1½ hours). Cars cost 466,000Rp, motorcycles 54,000Rp. Buses travelling through from Lombok, Bali and Java include the ferry fare.

Buses meet the ferry and go to Taliwang (20,000Rp, one hour) and Sumbawa Besar (30,000Rp, two hours).

Maluk & Rantung

South of Taliwang, the beaches and bays try to outdo one another. Your first stop is the working-class commercial district of Maluk, 30km south of Taliwang. Yes, the town is ugly, but the beach is superb.

Directly south of Maluk, within walking distance of the beach (though it is a long walk), is Supersuck, consistently rated by surfers as the best left in the world. It really pumps in the dry season (May to October).

About a 12km serpentine drive further south, Pantai Rantung (commonly called Rantung Beach), spills onto a secluded and majestic bay framed by 100m-high headlands. The water is crystal-clear and waves roll in year-round at Yo Yo’s, a right break at the north end of the bay.

Among the simple beachside places on Rantung Beach, Santai Beach Bungalows (%0878 6393 5758; Rantung Beach; r 100,000-200,000Rp; i) offers a collection of 12 spacious, well-tended tiled rooms.

Bemos travel between Taliwang and Maluk (20,000Rp, two hours) almost hourly from 7am to 6pm. Three daily buses leave Terminal Maluk, north of town across from the entrance to the Newmont mine (look for the big gates and massive parking area), for Sumbawa Besar (40,000Rp, four hours).

Sumbawa Besar

%0371 / Pop 54,000

Sumbawa Besar, nestled in a lush, sun-kissed breadbasket, is the main town on the western half of the island. There's no reason to linger here. If you miss a bus connection, the aptly named Sumbawa Transit Hotel (%0371-21754; Jl Garuda 41; r 250,000-600,000Rp; aW) is conveniently located across the main road and to the left as you emerge from the airport.

8Getting There & Away

The airport (SWQ) is very close to the centre. Transnusa has flights to Bali; Garuda Indonesia has flights to Lombok.

Sumbawa Besar’s main long-distance bus station is Terminal Sumur Payung, 5.5km northwest of town on the highway. You can book tickets at the station and at Tiara Mas (%0371-21241; Jl Yos Sudarso; h9am-6pm). Destinations served include the following:

ABima 80,000Rp, seven hours, several daily

AMataram 80,000Rp (including ferry ticket), six hours, several daily

APoto Tano 30,000Rp, three hours, hourly from 8am to midnight

Pantai Lakey & Hu’u

Pantai Lakey, a gentle crescent of golden sand 3km south of Hu’u, is where Sumbawa’s tourist pulse beats year-round, thanks to seven world-class surf breaks that curl and crash in one massive bay. From August to October the wind gusts, which turns Pantai Lakey into Indonesia’s best kitesurfing destination.

4Sleeping & Eating

Puma Bungalows & RestaurantBUNGALOW$

(%0373-623061; Jl Raya Hu'u; r 90,000-350,000Rp; a)

Expect 23 colourful concrete bungalows with tiled roofs and shady front porches, plus sprawling, palm-shaded grounds with fabulous views. Cheaper rooms are fan-only. The two-storey cafe (mains 30,000Rp to 50,000Rp) has sweeping views and a rickety, bamboo vibe; the ginger prawns are popular. On some days yoga classes are held.

Lakey Beach InnGUESTHOUSE$

(%0373-623576; www.lakey-beach-inn.com; Jl Raya Hu'u; r 90,000-250,000Rp; aW)

Enjoy tasty homestyle fish dinners, pizza and Indo classics at the large and driftwoody waterfront cafe (mains 25,000Rp to 60,000Rp). Rooms are basic – the cheapest have fans and cold water. French owner Rachel is a legendary local character.

oVivian's Lakey Peak HomestayHOMESTAY$$

(%0878 6698 1277; www.lakeypeakhomestay.com; off Jl Raya Hu'u; r 250,000-300,000Rp; aW)

Set along a little lane between the beach and the main road, this five-room family compound offers the area's warmest welcome. Rooms are newish and large with nice furnishings. The yard is shaded by banana trees and there's a genial cafe-cum-day room.

8Information

There is community wi-fi, although some places offer their own (faster) service.

The nearest ATMs are in Dompu, 37km to the north.

8Getting There & Away

From Dompu there are two daily (slow) buses as far as Hu’u (25,000Rp, 1½ hours), where you can hire an ojek (15,000Rp) to Pantai Lakey. Ojeks to/from Dompu on the Trans-Sumba highway cost 150,000Rp.

Try doing this with a surfboard and you’ll see why so many people take a taxi from Bima airport (around 800,000Rp, four people). Buses to/from Bima cost from 50,000Rp (one to two daily).

The ojek cartel is omnipresent in Lakey; rates to the breaks range from 30,000Rp to 80,000Rp.

Bima & Raba

%0374 / Pop 149,000

These twin cities – grubby but lively Bima and orderly but dull Raba – form Sumbawa’s main port and commercial hot spot, but there’s no good reason to nest here.

However, should flight or bus connections demand it, Hotel Lila Graha (%0374-42740; Jl Lombok 20; r 200,000-350,000Rp; aW) has a wide range of rooms; ground-floor suite rooms are the newest and nicest.

8Getting There & Away

Bima's airport (BMU) is 17km west of the city and is the main airport for travellers to Pantai Lakey. Services include the following:

ABali Garuda Indonesia, Lion Air (1¼ hours, daily)

AMakassar Garuda Indonesia (1½ hours, daily)

Buses heading west leave from the Bima bus terminal, a 10-minute walk south along Jl Sultan Kaharuddin from the centre of town. You can buy a ticket in advance from bus company offices on Jl Sultan Kaharuddin. Buses for Sape depart from the Kumbe terminal in Raba (a 3000Rp bemo ride away). Routes include the following:

ADompu 25,000Rp, two hours, almost hourly from 6am to 5pm

AMataram 250,000Rp, 11 to 14 hours, two daily

ASape 35,000, two hours, almost hourly from 6am to 5pm

ASumbawa Besar 80,000, seven hours, several daily

Sape

%0374

This tumbledown port town is not a place to linger. The docks, perfumed with the conspicuous scent of drying cuttlefish, are 3km from town.

8Getting There & Away

Express buses with service to Lombok and Bali meet arriving ferries.

Regular breakdowns and big water disrupt ferry services – always double-check the latest schedules in Bima and Sape. Ferries from Sape include the following:

ALabuanbajo 60,000Rp, six to seven hours, one to two daily

AWaikelo (Sumba) 65,000Rp, eight hours, two weekly

Komodo & Rinca

Parched, desolate and beautiful Komodo and Rinca rise from waters that churn with rips and whirlpools and are patrolled by lizard royalty, the komodo dragon. Drawing ever-more visitors each year, the park is driving the booming popularity of Flores.

Komodo National Park (www.komodo-park.com) established in 1980, encompasses Komodo, Rinca, several neighbouring islands, and the rich marine ecosystem within its 1817 sq km.

Fees for visitors add up quickly:

• Landing fee for Komodo and Rinca islands: 50,000Rp per person
• Basic guided walk fee: 80,000Rp per person
• Diving fee: Monday to Saturday/Sunday 175,000Rp/250,000Rp per person per day
• Snorkelling fee: Monday to Saturday/Sunday 165,000Rp/240,000Rp per person per day

Tour operators (including dive shops) usually collect the fees in advance. If not, you pay them in the park offices on Komodo or Rinca, or in Labuanbajo.

At both Komodo and Rinca you have a choice of walks, from short to long, which you arrange with a ranger when you arrive at the relevant island's park office.

The islands are easily reached from Labuanbajo on day trips, which usually include stops for snorkelling and swimming at various idyllic little beaches on tiny islets in the beautiful waters west of Labuanbajo.

2Activities

On Rinca, you have a choice of guided hikes from the pleasant ranger station close to the docks. The 90-minute 'medium' hike is really 'just right', as it includes the shady lowlands plus a trip up the hillside where the views across the arid landscape to palm-dotted ridges, achingly turquoise waters and pearly white specks of beach are spectacular. Besides dragons, you may see deer, snakes, monkeys, wild pigs and myriad birds. For many, Rinca, which can be reached from Labuanbajo in under an hour, is the best option for park visits since it packs a lot into a compact area.

Spectacular Komodo – its steep hillsides jade in the short wet season, frazzled by the sun and winds to a deep rusty red for most of the year – is the largest island in the national park. A succession of eastern peninsulas spread out like so many fingers, fringed in pink sand, thanks to the abundance of red coral offshore. The main camp of Loh Liang and the PHKA office, where boats dock and guided walks and treks start, is on the east coast.

Of the various walks, the medium walk (2.5km, 90 minutes) is a winner and includes a hill with sweeping views and a chance to see colourful cockatoos.

Komodo Island is at the centre of myriad diving and snorkelling sites. Most people visit as part of day trips to the island, on dive shop excursions from Labuanbajo while on a liveaboard.

KOMODO DRAGONS

The Komodo dragon (ora) is a monitor lizard, albeit one on steroids. Growing up to 3m in length and weighing up to 100kg, they are an awesome sight and make a visit to Komodo National Park well worth the effort. Lounging about lethargically in the sun, they actually are as fearsome as their looks imply. Park rangers keep them from attacking tourists; random encounters are a bad idea. Some dragon details:

• They are omnivorous, and enjoy eating their young. Juvenile dragons live in trees to avoid becoming a meal for adults.
• Ora often rise up on their hind legs just before attacking, and the tail can deliver well-aimed blows that knock down their prey.
• Bacteria in the dragons’ mouth are their secret weapon. One bite from a dragon leads to septic infections that inevitably kill the victim. The huge lizard lopes along after its victim waiting for it to die, which can take up to two weeks.
• Komodos will feed on mammals weighing up to 100kg. They do this at one sitting and then retire for up to a month to digest the massive meal.
• On Komodo, ora have been seen chasing deer into the ocean and then waiting on shore while the hapless deer tries to come back ashore. Eventually the exhausted animal staggers onto the beach, where the dragon inflicts its ultimately deadly bite.
• There is no accepted reason why the dragons are only found in this small area of Indonesia, although it’s thought that their ancestors came from Australia four million years ago. There are about 4000 in the wild today.
• A recent discovery has biologists baffled: female dragons kept isolated from other dragons their entire lives have recently been observed in zoos giving birth to fertilised eggs.
• Your odds of seeing a dragon at either Rinca or Komodo are good.

8Getting There & Away

Organise your visit to Komodo and Rinca from Labuanbajo (Flores), where there are dozens of dive shops and agencies offering tours.

A typical day trip on a fast boat (under one hour one-way to Rinca, about 80 minutes to Flores) costs about 300,000Rp per person and includes beach and snorkelling stops. A simple lunch is usually included, as well as snacks plus the use of snorkelling gear (but confirm beforehand).Chartering a boat for the day costs at least 950,000Rp but will allow you to fully customise your trip. Note that regular (slow) boats take double the times above to reach the islands. Shop around to compare the many offers.

BOAT TOURS BETWEEN LOMBOK & FLORES

Travelling by sea between Lombok and Labuanbajo is a popular way to get to Flores, as you’ll glimpse more of the region’s spectacular coastline and dodge the slog by bus across Sumbawa. Typical three- and four-day itineraries take in snorkelling at Pulau Satonda or Pulau Moyo off the coast of Sumbawa, and a dragon-spotting hike on Komodo or Rinca.

But note: this is usually no luxury cruise – a lot depends on the boat, the crew and your fellow travellers. Some operators have reneged on ‘all-inclusive’ deals en route, and others operate decrepit old tugs without life jackets or radio. And this crossing can be hazardous during the rainy season (October to January), when the seas are rough.

Most travellers enjoy the journey though, whether it involves bedding down on a mattress on deck or in a tiny cabin. The cost for a three-to-four-day itinerary ranges from about US$170 to US$400 per person and includes all meals, basic beverages and use of snorkelling gear.

Other considerations:

Carefully vet your boat for safety.

Find out just what's included in the price, and what's not. For instance, if drinking water is included, how much is provided? If you need more, can you buy it on the boat or do you need to bring your own?

If you're flexible, you can often save money by travelling west from Flores, as travelling eastwards to Flores is more popular. Look for deals with agents once you're in Labuanbajo.

We recommend the following two long-running and reliable operators:

Kencana AdventureBOAT

(%0370-693432; www.kencanaadventure.com; Jl Raya Senggigi, Senggigi, Lombok; one-way deck/cabin from 1,750,000/4,500,000Rp)

Offers basic boat trips between Lombok and Labuanbajo with deck accommodation as well as cabins that sleep two. Also has a branch in Labuanbajo (%0370-693432; www.kencanaadventure.com; Jl Soekarno Hatta, front of Gardena Hotel, Labuanbajo; one-way deck/cabin from 1,750,000/4,500,000Rp).

Perama TourBOAT

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-750808; www.peramatour.com; Jl Raya Legian 39; one-way deck/cabin from 1,300,000/2,000,000Rp)

Runs basic boat trips between Lombok and Labuanbajo with deck accommodation as well as small two-person cabins. Also has a branch in Labuanbajo (%0361-750808; www.peramatour.com; Jl Soekarno Hatta, Labuanbajo; one-way deck/cabin from 1,300,000/2,000,000Rp).

Flores

Flores, the island named ‘flowers’ by 16th-century Portuguese colonists, has become Indonesia’s ‘Next Big Thing’. In the far west, Labuanbajo is a booming tourist town that combines tropical beauty with nearby attractions such as Komodo National Park, myriad superb dive spots and beach-dappled little islands.

The often lush interior is attracting an ever-greater river of travellers who, in just a few days’ journey overland, encounter smoking volcanoes, spectacular rice fields and lakes, exotic cultures and hidden beaches. You’ll even see plenty of steeples, as away from the port towns most people are nominally Catholic. Many more people are part of cultures and groups that date back centuries, and live in traditional villages seemingly unchanged in millennia.

The 670km, serpentine – yet rapidly improving – Trans-Flores Hwy skirts knife-edge ridges that sheer into spectacular river canyons, brushes by dozens of traditional villages, and always seems to have a perfectly conical volcano in view. Roads of varying quality branch off into areas few tourists have explored.

8Information

Foreign aid money has funded an excellent string of tourist offices in key towns across Flores. Their enthusiastic information is backed by an excellent website (www.florestourism.com), free town maps and several publications well worth their modest price, including a huge, detailed island map, and books covering activities and culture.

SEVEN DAYS ON FLORES

You can take as long as you like exploring Flores, but a common trip for the visa-expiry-date-conscious, using a hired car and driver, goes like this:

Three days in Labuanbajo and the surrounding park and waters

One day driving to the hill town of Bajawa

One day driving to the sweet mountain village of Moni, via the Ngada village of Bena and the steamy port town of Ende

One day exploring the area around Moni, including Kelimutu National Park

One day driving to Maumere, with a stop at the beach in Paga

You can fly out of Maumere and you can do this trip in either direction, although it's easiest to find a driver you'll like in Labuanbajo. Add a couple of extra days to the schedule above if you're sticking to buses.

8Getting There & Away

AAir You can easily get flights connecting Flores to Bali, Lombok and Kupang (West Timor), among other destinations. Labuanbajo is the main gateway, while Maumere and Ende are also serviced by daily flights. It's easy to fly into, say Labuanbajo, tour the island, and fly out of Maumere. However note that the booming popularity of Flores means that flights are booked solid at peak times.

ABoat Daily ferries connect Labuanbajo with Sape (Sumbawa). From Larantuka, infrequent ferries go to Kupang (West Timor). From Ende and Aimere, boats will take you to Waingapu (Sumba).

8Getting Around

Regular buses ply the Trans-Flores Hwy. They're cheap and cramped. Much more comfortable and only somewhat more expensive are public minibuses (often a Toyota Kijang) that link major towns in air-con comfort. Many visitors hire a car and driver, which costs from 600,000Rp to 800,000Rp per day. If you have a group of six, this is a fair deal. Motorcycles (from 50,000Rp per day) are also popular but aren't for the faint of heart.

Your accommodation will usually have details on all the above options.

Labuanbajo

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Ever more travellers are descending on this gorgeous, slightly ramshackle harbour town, freckled with offshore islands and blessed with idyllic views that offer surrealist sunsets.

Labuanbajo's main drag, Jl Soekarno Hatta, is lined with cool cafes, guesthouses, travel agents and a few hopping bars. The waterfront is spiffed up and the connections to other parts of Indonesia are excellent. With the many beguiling islands just offshore, you may find Labuanbajo (or Bajo as its commonly called) hard to leave, even as the draw of Flores proper lures you east.

2Activities

The pristine reefs and preponderance of underwater life in Komodo National Park and the surrounding waters is one of the big draws to Labuanbajo. Prices tend to be uniform.

oWicked DivingDIVING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0812 3964 1143; www.wickeddiving.com/komodo; Jl Soekarno Hatta; floating dm per night from US$100; h8am-8pm)S

Offers popular multiday liveaboards on a classic Bugis schooner and has a 'floating hostel' set among the northern islands of Komodo National Park. Its day trips are justifiably popular and the company wins plaudits for nurturing local divers, promoting strong green practices and giving back to the community. Accommodation rates include dives and transport.

CNDiveDIVING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0823 3908 0808; www.cndivekomodo.com; Jl Soekarno Hatta; per person per day from US$150; h8am-8pm)S

Condo Subagyo, the proprietor of CNDive, is the area’s original Indonesian dive operator and a former Komodo National Park ranger. The staff are all locals who have been thoroughly trained and have intimate knowledge of over 100 dive sites.

Uber ScubaDIVING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0812 3653 6749; uberscubakomodo.com; Jl Soekarno Hatta; three-dive fun dive 1,400,000Rp; h8am-8pm)

This new dive shop is riding the wave of ever-increasing visitor numbers to the Komodo area. Besides extensive courses, it offers a full range of free-diving excursions and instruction.

4Sleeping

July to August is peak season: be sure to book. Booming popularity means that deals are scant; skip the over-priced beach resorts south of the centre. New guesthouses are opening regularly and many of the dive shops offer a few simple rooms.

oBajo Sunset HostelHOSTEL$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0812 3799 3814; Jl Reklamasi Pantai; dm/r from 150,000/250,000Rp; aW)

A great new addition to the Bajo scene, this newly built guesthouse sits on reclaimed land on the waterfront. There is a modest cafe and a large open-air common area with great views out to sea. Accommodation is in a 14-bed dorm and four-bed rooms. Smaller private rooms are planned.

Palulu Garden HomestayHOMESTAY$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0822 3658 4279; palulugarden.wordpress.com; off Jl Ande Bole; r economy/budget/air-con from 140,000/200,000/350,000Rp; a)

Long-time local guide Kornelis Gega and his family run this four-room homestay just a short walk above the centre. The cheapest room shares a bathroom, while the top room has air-con. It's pure Flores throughout, and utterly spic and span. Kornelis can help with your trip planning and arrange transport etc.

Bajo Beach HotelGUESTHOUSE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0385-41008; Jl Soekarno Hatta; r 150,000-250,000Rp; aW)

A fine cheapie in the city centre with 16 basic but spacious tiled older rooms that are clean and well tended. Each has a private seating area out front. You'll get the same room either way, but pay a bit more for air-con.

Green Hill HotelGUESTHOUSE$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0385-41289; www.greenhillboutiquehotel.com; Jl Soekarno Hatta; r from 500,000Rp; aW)

The communal terrace bar with its view of the town, bay and sunsets makes this an excellent choice. The 11 rooms are a brief climb from the very centre of town and range from scruffy and older to sprightly and newer. Breakfasts are excellent.

SPLURGE

Set on its own 15-hectare island and linked to Labuanbajo by private boat, the Angel Island Resort (%0385-41443; www.angelisleflores.com; Pulau Bidadari; d per person from €145; aW) has 10 sweet villas scattered about the trees behind one of three white-sand beaches. All meals are included; the food and service is casual and superb. You can easily while away your days here on the deserted beaches or out snorkelling, diving and visiting the park.

5Eating & Drinking

Labuanbajo punches way above its weight in the food department. Look for market-fare and cheap stalls at the north end of the waterfront.

oPasar MalamINDONESIAN$

(Night Market; GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Soekarno Hatta; mains from 20,000Rp; h6pm-midnight)

At sunset, grab a tarp-shaded table at Bajo's waterfront night market, as a dozen stalls come alive with all manner of Indo classics, fried delights and grilled seafood. Get cold beer from the market across the road.

Cafe in HitCAFE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0813 5367 3884; Jl Soekarno Hatta; mains from 40,000Rp; h7am-10pm; W)

You may forget you're in Bajo, let alone Flores, at this semislick coffee house. Let the air-con cool you while you choose a drink from the blackboards, which could be in any upscale hipster cafe worldwide. Food is well-executed and includes sandwiches, baked goods, brownies and more. Breakfasts are heavy on whole grains and fruit.

Warung MamaINDONESIAN$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0822 3926 4747; Jl Soekarno Hatta; mains from 30,000Rp; h8am-10pm)

Set slightly above Bajo's main drag, this bamboo haven offers cheap and cheerful local fare to discerning budget eaters. There's no MSG, the veggies aren't cooked to death, the juices are fresh, and standards such as the rendang (beef coconut curry) are very well done.

oMade In ItalyITALIAN$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0385-41366; www.miirestaurants.com; Jl Soekarno Hatta; mains 50,000-90,000Rp; h11am-11pm; W)

A fun and stylish indoor–outdoor dining room known the island over for its fantastic pizza and pasta. In fact we’ll just say it: it’s some of the best pizza we’ve ever had anywhere – wafer thin and crunchy with perfectly delectable toppings. You’ll dig the rattan lighting, custom wood furnishings, ceiling fans and long drinks menu.

Paradise BarBAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0823 3935 4854; off Jl Binongko; h11am-2am)

Set on a hilltop, Paradise satisfies all the requirements of a definitive tropical watering hole. There's ample deck space, a mesmerising sea view, a natural wood bar serving ice-cold beer, and live music. There's food too – mains run between 22,000Rp and 60,000Rp. This is as wild as it gets for Bajo nightlife – divers get up early. It's a 10-minute walk up hill from the centre.

8Information

Banks, ATMs and shops line Jl Soekarno Hatta.

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

(www.florestourism.com; Jl Soekarno Pelabuhan; h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Sat)

This excellent office has details on local activities, updated maps and books plus all the transport info – and tickets – you'll need. The porch has comfy chairs you can use while you plot out your visit.

8Getting There & Away

Air

Labuanbajo's Komodo Airport (LBJ; GOOGLE MAP ) has a huge new airport terminal and a newly lengthened runway, which gives some idea of the expected tourism growth.

Garuda Indonesia, Transnusa (www.transnusa.co.id) and Wings Air (www.lionair.co.id) serve the airport and have counters in the terminal. There are several daily flights to/from Bali but these are booked solid at busy times. Don't just expect to turn up and go. Garuda also flies to Kupang five times weekly.

Boat

The ASDP ferry from Labuanbajo to Sape (60,000Rp, six to seven hours) has a morning run and often another in the afternoon. Confirm all times carefully. Buy your tickets the day of departure at the ferry port office ( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Soekarno Hatta; h7am-5pm).

Agents for the boats running between Labuanbajo and Lombok line Jl Soekarno Hatta.

Bus

With no bus terminal in Labuanbajo, most people book their tickets through a hotel or agency. If you get an advance ticket, the bus will pick you up from your hotel. All buses run via Ruteng, so no matter where you're headed just take the first available east-bound bus.

Ticket sellers for long-distance buses to Lombok and Bali work the ferry port office. The fares include all ferries (three to Bali!) and air-con buses in between.

TRANSPORT FROM LABUANBAJO

Destination	Type	Price (Rp)	Duration (hr)	Frequency
Denpasar (Bali)	bus & ferry	500,000	38	1 daily
Bajawa	bus	120,000	10	several daily
Mataram (Lombok)	bus & ferry	350,000	24	1 daily
Ruteng	bus	60,000	4	every 2hr, 6am-6pm

Ruteng

%0385

The greatest site locally is actually 20km west of town, just off the Trans-Flores Hwy near the village of Cancar. The legendary Spiderweb Rice Fields are vast creations that are shaped exactly as their name implies. The surrounding region is beautifully lush with paddies.

Ruteng makes a fine lunch stop thanks to Agape ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0385-22561; Jl Bhayangkara; dishes 8000-30,000Rp; h8am-10pm; W), a great cafe that's popular with both locals and seemingly every traveller who drives past.

There are regular buses to Bajawa (60,000Rp, five hours).

THE NGADA

Over 60,000 Ngada people inhabit the upland Bajawa plateau and the slopes around Gunung Inerie. Older animistic beliefs remain strong, and most Ngada practise a fusion of animism and Christianity. They worship Gae Dewa, a god who unites Dewa Zeta (the heavens) and Nitu Sale (the earth).

The most evident symbols of continuing Ngada tradition are pairs of ngadhu and bhaga. The ngadhu is a parasol-like structure about 3m high, consisting of a carved wooden pole and thatched ‘roof’, and the bhaga is a miniature thatched-roof house.

The ngadhu is ‘male’ and the bhaga is ‘female’, and each pair is associated with a particular family group within a village. Some were built over 100 years ago to commemorate ancestors killed in long-past battles.

Bajawa

%0384

With a pleasant climate and surrounded by forested volcanoes, Bajawa is a great base from which to explore dozens of traditional villages that are home to the Ngada people. Their fascinating architecture features ngadhu (carved poles supporting a conical thatched roof).

1Sights & Activities

Bajawa’s top attractions are the traditional villages. Guides linger around hotels and arrange day trips for 250,000Rp per person with motorcycle transport, village entry fees and lunch. Alternatively, the villages are easily reached if you're driving across Flores. Bena, 19km south of Bajawa on the flank of picture-perfect volcano Gunung Inerie (2245m), is the best village in the area, with several megalith tombs and soaring thatched roofs. Women with betel-nut-stained grins sell elaborate ikat fabrics and macadamia nuts. Nearby Luba is likewise fascinating.

4Sleeping & Eating

oHotel Happy HappyGUESTHOUSE$$

(%0384-421763, 0853 3370 4455; www.hotelhappyhappy.com; Jl Sudirman; r 300,000-350,000Rp; W)

A simple yet classy guesthouse with seven immaculate tiled rooms, brushed with lavender walls, dressed with high-quality linen – a scarcity in Bajawa. There's an amiable sitting area on the patio, free water-bottle refills and an excellent included breakfast. It’s a short walk from the main cluster of tourist businesses.

Hotel Bintang WisataHOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0384-21744; Jl Palapa 4; r 200,000-350,000Rp; W)

In a central two-storey block, 24 basic tiled rooms are set in an arc around a parking lot where drivers lounge about awaiting their charges. Upstairs VIP rooms have terraces, hot water and great views of the surrounding hills. The cheapest rooms are cold-water only – a bracing prospect as nights can get chilly.

Dito’sINDONESIAN$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0384-21162; Jl Ahmad Yani; mains 25,000-50,000Rp; h8am-10pm)

Dito's does a brisk business serving pork and chicken sate and fresh tuna bakar, which is sourced from nearby Aimere and grilled to perfection. The tamarillo juice is delish.

8Information

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

(www.florestourism.com; Jl Ahmad Yani; h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Sat)

Small but highly useful; good for Ngada info. Various trekking and travel agencies have shops nearby.

8Getting There & Away

Hotels arrange bus tickets and pick-ups. Buses to Ende (60,000Rp, five hours) depart several times a day.

Ende

%0381 / Pop 65,000

The most obvious merit of this muggy port town is its spectacular setting. The eye-catching cones of Gunung Meja (661m) and Gunung Iya (637m) loom over the city and the nearby black-sand and blue-cobblestone coastline. Ende is worth more than a pause at its traffic circles. It has a compact and atmospheric centre, and an intriguing grittiness.

1Sights

PasarMARKET

(Market; GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Pasar; h7am-6pm)

Meander through the aromatic waterfront market with the requisite fruit pyramids and an astonishing fish section. The adjacent ikat market ( GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Jls Pabean & Pasar; h9am-5pm) sells hand-woven tapestries from across Flores and Sumba.

4Sleeping & Eating

Accommodation is spread all over town, but frequent bemos make it easy to get around.

Guesthouse AlhidayahGUESTHOUSE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0381-23707; Jl Yos Sudarso; r 150,000-250,000Rp; a)

This spot offers seven sparkling, but otherwise basic, tiled rooms with high ceilings and a private porch area. Priciest rooms have air-con and hot water, and are decent value. It's a solid budget choice.

oDasi Guest HouseGUESTHOUSE$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0381-262 7049; yosdam@yahoo.co.id; Jl Durian Atas 2; s/d from 200,000/225,000Rp; aW)

This excellent family-run guesthouse has 15 rooms in a new building. Some are dark, some are bright, but all have air-con and TV. There's a pleasant common room with views south. It's located about 3km east of the centre in a residential neighbourhood.

oSari RasaINDONESIAN$

( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Ahmad Yani; mains 13,000-26,000Rp; h6pm-midnight)

One of the best restaurants not just in Ende, but in all of Nusa Tenggara. Looks are deceiving: just a few plastic stools at fluorescent-lit metal tables. But once the food arrives, you'll understand. The menu is short but shows the incredible care of the family in the kitchen.

8Information

ATMs and banks dot the centre.

8Getting There & Away

Air and ferry schedules in East Nusa Tenggara are historically fluid, so it's best to confirm all times and carriers prior to planning your trip. Wings Air and Transnusa serve Ende Airport ( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Ahmad Yani), which is right in the centre.

There's a ferry to Kupang (149,000Rp, 19 hours, twice weekly) and Waingapu (115,000Rp, 13 hours, weekly).

East-bound buses (Maumere, 80,000Rp, five hours) leave from the Wolowana terminal, 5km from town. Buses heading west (Bajawa, 60,000Rp, five hours) leave from the Ndao terminal, 2km north of town on the beach road.

Kelimutu

Kelimutu National Park (%0381-23405; Jl El Tari 16; admission per person Mon-Sat/Sun 150,000/225,000Rp, per ojek/car 5000/10,000Rp; hticket office 5am-5pm) remains a Nusa Tenggara must: there aren’t many better ways to wake up than to witnesss the sun cresting Mt Kelimutu’s western rim, filtering through mist and revealing three deep volcanic lakes, each one a different and striking primary colour that seems the thickness of paint.

Most visitors glimpse them at dawn, leaving nearby Moni at 4am, but afternoons are usually empty and peaceful at the top of Mt Kelimutu, and when the sun is high the colours sparkle. The main viewing spot is a mere 20-minute walk from the car park.

To get there from Moni, hire an ojek (50,000Rp one-way) or car (300,000Rp return, maximum five people). You can walk the 13.5km down through the forest and back to Moni in about three hours. A jalan potong (shortcut) leaves the road back to Moni 3km south of the ticket office and goes through Manukako village, then meanders back to the main road 750m uphill from Moni.

Moni

Moni, the gateway to Kelimutu, is a picturesque hillside village sprinkled with rice fields, ringed by soaring volcanic peaks, and with distant sea views. The cool, comfortable climate invites long walks and a few extra days. Ask about routes to waterfalls and hot springs.

4Sleeping & Eating

Moni has a cluster of budget guesthouses along the main – and only – road. Prices peak in July and August, when it's wise to book ahead.

Watugana BungalowsBUNGALOW$

(%0813 3916 7408; Jl Trans Flores; r 150,000-350,000Rp)

Downstairs rooms are older and kept reasonably clean, though they are dark and the bathrooms are a bit moist. The newish rooms upstairs are bright and have hot water.

Daniel LodgeGUESTHOUSE$$

(%0812 4602 8875; wanggeyanto@yahoo.co.id; r from 250,000Rp)

A sprightly new guesthouse with three bungalow-style rooms, where you can bed down to the whoosh of a running stream. The yard is scented with myriad flowers. Relax on comfy bamboo chairs on the porches.

Bintang LodgeGUESTHOUSE$$

(%0852 3790 6259, 0812 3761 6940; Jl Trans Flores km 54; r 350,000-400,000Rp, mains from 25,000Rp; ai)

Easily the best of the old guesthouse standbys, the four rooms here are the cleanest and largest in the town centre. They also have hot water, which is nice on chilly mornings and evenings. The cafe (mains from 25,000Rp) has a great open terrace with views over the green surrounds. Real travellers order the garlic sandwich for breakfast.

8Getting There & Away

Maumere is four hours to the east (bus/minibus 50,000/80,000Rp).

Paga

Halfway between Moni and Maumere, the village of Paga has a long, white-sand beach that's the stuff of fantasy.

Don't miss Pantai Koka (admission per car 20,000Rp), a gorgeous twin beach about 5km west of Pantai Naga; look for a small, partially paved road.

Right off the road and on the sand, Restaurant Laryss (%0852 5334 2802; www.floresgids.com; Jl Raya Maumere-Ende; mains from 50,000Rp; hkitchen 8am-8pm), a bamboo fish joint, serves ultra-fresh seafood with superbly prepared sides. The owner, Agustus Naban, is also a talented guide.

Maumere

%0382 / Pop 54,000

Maumere has the second-busiest airport on the island, and you’ll likely need to spend a night here if you're doing the one-way, cross-Flores drive. Unfortunately the drab city centre holds little interest.

4Sleeping & Eating

Hotel Wini Rai IIHOTEL$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0382-21362; Jl Soetomo; s/d fan-only 100,000/150,000Rp, s/d with air-con 150,000/200,000Rp; a)

Maumere's best budget option (and the competition is not fierce) is bare-bones but very friendly. Small rooms face a covered courtyard. The cheapest are fan only and can get steamy. It's close to various eating options.

oWailiti HotelHOTEL$$

(%0382-23416; Jl Raya Don Silva; r 400,000-500,000Rp; aiWs)

Rooms at Maumere’s most pleasant accommodation are in one-storey blocks and bungalows. The flash-free vibe here extends to the spacious grounds, large pool and narrow black-sand beach with views of off-shore islands. The simple cafe serves superb seafood and some amazingly good aubergine fritters. It’s 6.5km west of the centre; airport transport costs 100,000Rp and is reliable.

8Information

The non-compact centre has banks and ATMs.

8Getting There & Around

Maumere's Frans Seda Airport (MOF) is 3km east of town. Destinations serviced by Kalstar and Wings Air include Bali and Kupang. Hop on an ojek to/from the airport for 10,000Rp, avoiding the high fixed taxi fare.

Buses to Larantuka (60,000Rp, minibus 80,000Rp, four hours) leave from the Lokaria (or Timur) terminal, 3km east of town. Buses west to Moni leave from the Ende terminal 1km southwest of town.

Around Maumere

A small army of expert artisans lies in wait in the weaving village of Sikka, 26km south of Maumere. Along the north coast, east of Maumere, is where you’ll find the best beaches and healthiest reefs.

The beaches of Ahuwair, Wodong and Waiterang, about 26km east of Maumere, ooze tranquillity. Lena House (%0813 3940 7733; www.lenahouseflores.com; Wodong; r from 150,000Rp) offers eight clean bamboo bungalows set on a spectacular beach.

Ankermi (%0812 466 9667; www.ankermi-happydive.com; r 300,000-400,000Rp; a), located 29km east of Maumere, has cute, tiled, thatched bungalows with private porches and stunning sea views. The dive shop is the best in the Maumere area. They also grow their own organic rice and vegetables on site, and the meals are delicious.

Larantuka

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A bustling little port of rusted tin roofs at the easternmost end of Flores, Larantuka rests against the base of Gunung Ili Mandiri (1510m), separated by a narrow strait from Pulau Solor and Pulau Adonara. It has a fun, street-market vibe at dusk, but most visitors stay just one night on their way to Kupang or Alor.

4Sleeping & Eating

oAsa Hotel & RestaurantHOTEL$$

(%0383-232 5018; asahotel-larantuka.com; Jl Soekarno Hatta; r from 360,000Rp, mains from 25,000Rp; a)

The best place to stay has an impressive complex overlooking the harbour, 5km east of the centre. The 27 modern and well-designed rooms are in one- and two-storey blocks, and have fridges and balconies. There is a good restaurant (mains from 25,000Rp), and a bar with views.

8Getting There & Away

All boats depart from the main pier in the southern part of town. Double-check departure times.

Ferries run to Kupang (105,000Rp to 154,000Rp, 15 hours, two per week) and Kalabahi (economy/VIP 115,000Rp/170,000Rp, 24 hours, one per week).

The main bus terminal is 5km west of town. Buses (60,000Rp, four hours) and cars (80,000Rp, three hours) to Maumere run frequently between 7am and 5pm.

WORTH A TRIP

ALOR

Alor, the final link in an island chain that extends east of Java, is as remote, rugged and beautiful as it gets. Thanks to impenetrable terrain, the nearly 200,000 inhabitants of the Alor Archipelago are fractured into over 100 tribes with 52 dialects, and they were still taking heads into the 1950s. Alor is also famous for its strange, bronze moko drums.

Superb diving can be arranged through La Petite Kepa (%SMS only 0813 3910 2403; www.la-petite-kepa.com; bungalows incl meals per person 225,000-450,000Rp, dives from €32) on Pulau Kepa. Alor Dive (%0386-222 2663, 0813 3964 8148; www.alor-dive.com; Jl Suharto; 2-tank dives from €80; h8am-4pm) also arranges trips.

Kalabahi, located on a sweeping, palm-fringed bay, is the main port; it has banks and ATMs. Cantik Homestay (%0813 3229 9336, 0386-21030; Jl Dahlia 12; r 150,000-200,000Rp; a) has seven simple rooms. The owner rents out motorcycles, and the home cooking here is sensational.

Transnusa and Wings Air make the one-hour flight to Kupang. The tiny airport (ARD) is comically disorganised, but offers one of the most dramatic approaches in the country. It's 9km from Kalabahi. Check in early to avoid the mad scrum that often develops.

There are two weekly ferries to Kupang (116,000Rp to 170,000Rp, 18 hours), and one to Larantuka (115,000Rp to 170,000Rp, 24 hours).