8Directory A–Z
Accommodation
Places to stay in tourist areas can be excellent at any price range. But elsewhere in Indonesia, standards quickly fall: slack maintenance and uneven service are common, although staff are usually cheery.
Hostels are appearing in top tourist destinations like Bali, the Gilis and Flores, although often a private room in a family-run place can be found for similar rates. Other options include liveaboard boats, bamboo-and-thatch surf camps and much more. Camping is very uncommon.
Shop online and contact hotels directly and bargain to find the best rates. There’s no one formula that works across Indonesia. Accommodation attracts a combined tax and service charge (called 'plus plus') of 21%. In budget places, this is generally included in the price, but check first.
At various price ranges, expect the following:
ABudget The cheapest accommodation is in small places that are simple but clean and comfortable. Names usually include the word 'losmen,' 'homestay,' 'inn' or 'pondok.' Standards vary widely. Features:
Maybe air-con
Maybe hot water
Sometimes no window
Private bathroom with shower and sometimes a Western-style toilet
Often a pool (on Bali)
Simple breakfast
AMidrange Many hotels have a range of rooms, from budget to midrange. The best may be called VIP or some other moniker. In addition to what you'll get at a budget hotel, expect:
Balcony/porch/patio
Satellite TV
Small fridge
Usually wi-fi
ATop-End Indonesia has some of the world's best hotels, including beach resorts and isolated luxury retreats. If you're looking to splurge, you may find something fabulous for less than you'd expect.
Price Ranges
Average prices are higher in Bali and Lombok's Gili Islands; in this chapter, our price indicators are separated into two price bands.
Note that the Indonesian government may redenominate the rupiah in the next year or two, meaning the last three zeroes will be lopped off each denomination (eg a 20,000Rp note will become a 20Rp note). Expect confusion if this long-promised change occurs.
Bali & Lombok
A$ less than 450,000Rp
A$$ 450,000Rp to 1,400,000Rp
A$$$ more than 1,400,000Rp
Rest of Indonesia
A$ less than 250,000Rp
A$$ 250,000R to 800,000Rp
A$$$ more than 800,000Rp
Customs Regulations
Indonesia has the usual list of prohibited imports, including drugs, weapons, fresh fruit and anything remotely pornographic.
Items allowed include the following:
200 cigarettes (or 50 cigars or 100g of tobacco)
a ‘reasonable amount’ of perfume
1L of alcohol
Electricity
Indonesia uses 220/230V 50Hz electricity; plugs usually have two round pins, like those found in much of the EU.
Festivals & Events
Religious events and official holidays are a vital part of Indonesian life. There are many through the year and they’re often cause for celebrations and festivals. With such a diversity of people in the archipelago, there are many local holidays, festivals and cultural events. This is especially true on Bali, where religious events can easily occupy a third of the typical person’s calendar.
The Muslim fasting month of Ramadan requires that Muslims abstain from food, drink, cigarettes and sex between sunrise and sunset. Many bars and restaurants close and it is important to avoid eating or drinking publicly in Muslim areas during this time. For the week before and after Lebaran (Idul Fitri), the festival to mark the end of the fast, transport is often fully booked and travelling becomes a nightmare – plan to stay put at this time. Ramadan, Idul Fitri and Idul Adha (Muslim day of sacrifice) move back 10 days or so every year, according to the Muslim calendar.
Although some public holidays have a fixed date, the dates for many events vary each year depending on Muslim, Buddhist or Hindu calendars.
January/February
ANew Year’s Day Celebrated on 1 January.
AImlek (Chinese New Year) Special food is prepared, decorations adorn stores and homes, and barongasai (lion dances) are performed; held in January/February.
AMuharram (Islamic New Year) The date varies each year; it's usually in late January.
AMaulid Nabi Muhammad (Mohammed’s Birthday) Celebrated in December in 2016 and 2017 and November in 2018; prayers are held in mosques throughout the country, and there are street parades in Solo and Yogyakarta.
March/April
AHindu New Year (Nyepi) Held in March/April; in Bali and other Hindu communities, villagers make as much noise as possible to scare away devils. Virtually all of Bali shuts down.
AGood Friday Occurs in March or April.
April/May
AWaisak (Buddha’s Birthday) Mass prayers are said at the main Buddhist temples, including Borobudur.
May/June
AAscension of Christ Occurs in May/June.
AAscension of Mohammed Special prayers are held in mosques.
August
AIndependence Day Celebrated on 17 August with plenty of pomp and circumstance; government buildings are draped in huge red-and-white flags and banners, and there are endless marches.
ALebaran (Idul Fitri) Everyone returns to their home village for special prayers and gift giving; it’s also a time for charity donations.
October
AIdul Adha The end of the Haj is celebrated with animal sacrifices, the meat of which is given to the poor.
November/December
AChristmas Day Marked by gift giving and special church services in Christian areas; celebrated on 25 December.
Food
Food is cheaper outside of the main tourist hubs of Bali and Lombok's Gili Islands. As such, our price indicators for a main course or meal are separated into two price bands.
Bali & Lombok
A$ less than 60,000Rp
A$$ 60,000Rp to 250,000Rp
A$$$ more than 250,000Rp
Rest of Indonesia
A$ less than 50,000Rp
A$$ 50,000Rp to 200,000Rp
A$$$ more than 200,000Rp
Internet Access
Indonesia is getting wired, though speed varies from fast to painfully slow.
Wi-fi (pronounced 'wee-fee' in Indonesia) is commonly available in hotels except in rural areas. It's often free but watch out for hotels that may charge ridiculous rates by the hour or by data use.
Data through your smartphone is often the fastest way to connect to the internet. 3G service is widespread.
Legal Matters
Drugs, gambling and pornography are illegal; the executions of two Australian nationals of the so-called 'Bali Nine' in 2015 for drug offences serve as a grim reminder.
Generally, you are unlikely to have any encounters with the police unless you are driving a rented car or motorcycle, in which case you may be stopped for a dubious reason and asked to pay an impromptu ‘fine’ of about 50,000Rp.
LGBT Travellers
Gay travellers in Indonesia should follow the same precautions as straight travellers: avoid public displays of affection. This is especially important in conservative areas such as Aceh, where two women hugging were sent for 're-education' by religious police in 2015.
Gay men in Indonesia are referred to as homo or gay; lesbians are lesbi.
Indonesia's community of transvestite/transsexual waria – from the words wanita (woman) and pria (man) – has always had a very public profile; also known by the less polite term banci.
Islamic groups proscribe homosexuality, but queer-bashing is rare.
Bali is especially LGBT-friendly, with a large community of expats and people from elsewhere in Indonesia.
Money
ATMs are common across Indonesia except in rural areas; most now accept cards affiliated with international networks. Bank BNI is reliable.
Always carry a sizeable amount of rupiah when you are travelling outside of cities and tourist areas as ATM networks go down and/or you can be on an island where the only ATM is broken or non-existent.
In cities and touristed areas (eg Bali), credit cards will be accepted at midrange and better hotels and resorts. More expensive shops as well as travel agents will also accept them, but often with a surcharge of around 3%.
Stick to banks, exchange counters in airports or large and reputable storefront operations as scams are common. It can be hard to exchange currencies other than the US dollar outside of major cities.
Opening Hours
The following are typical opening hours found across Indonesia.
Banks 8am to 2pm Monday to Thursday, 8am to noon Friday, 8am to 11am Saturday.
Government offices Generally 8am to 3pm Monday to Thursday, 8am to noon Friday.
Restaurants 8am to 10pm.
Shopping 9am or 10am to 5pm; larger shops and tourist areas to 8pm. Many closed Sunday.
Public Holidays
Official holidays and religious events are intertwined in the Indonesian calendar, with the result being a plethora of days when much of the nation shuts down or has the day off.
Safe Travel
If you’ve never been before, Indonesia might seem like one of the world’s most dodgy nations: accident-prone and cursed by natural disasters and terrorist outrages.
But even though transport safety standards are dodgy, earthquakes are frequent and there has been a number of highly publicised incidents of terrorism and sectarian violence, Indonesia is actually a very safe nation for travellers.
Personal safety, even in the big cities, is not usually a major concern. Keep your wits about you, yes, but violent crime is rare in Indonesia. Be mindful of your valuables and take the usual precautions and the chances of getting into trouble are small.
It is important to keep abreast of current political developments, however. At the time of writing, the country was peaceful.
Drug penalties can be severe. Be very wary of arak, the potent rice or palm alcohol that figures in many drinks aimed at tourists and locals alike; deaths and serious injuries occur constantly due to unscrupulous vendors using dangerous chemicals. And on Bali, beware of dogs, as there is an ongoing rabies problem.
Tap water is never safe to drink.
Telephone
Cheap SIM cards (which should never cost more than 5000Rp more than any included calling credit) and internet calling make it easy to stay in touch with home at reasonable prices.
Time
Indonesia has three time zones. Western Indonesia time (Sumatra, Java, West and Central Kalimantan) is seven hours ahead of GMT, Central Indonesia time (Bali, South and East Kalimantan, Sulawesi and Nusa Tenggara) is eight hours ahead, and East Indonesia time (Maluku and Papua) is nine hours ahead.
Toilets
Public toilets are rare except in bus and train stations. Expect to use restaurants and hotels.
Indonesian toilets are holes in the ground with footrests on either side (although Western toilets are common in tourist areas). To flush, scoop water from the nearby tank.
Visas
The visa situation is constantly in flux. Your passport must be valid for at least six months from the date of your arrival.
At the time of research, the main visa options for visitors to Indonesia were:
Visa in Advance Visitors can apply for a visa before they arrive in Indonesia. Typically this is a visitor's visa, which comes in two flavours: 30 or 60 days. Details vary by country; contact your nearest Indonesian embassy or consulate to determine processing fees and times.
Visa on Arrival Citizens of over 65 countries may apply for a 30-day visa when they arrive at major airports and harbours (but not most land borders). The cost is US$35; be sure to have the exact amount in US currency. Eligible countries include Australia, Canada, much – but not all – of the EU plus New Zealand and the USA. VOA renewals for 30 days are possible. If you don't qualify for VOA, you must get a visa in advance.
Visa Free Citizens of dozens of countries can receive a 30-day visa for free upon arrival. But note that this visa cannot be extended and you may be limited to which airports and ports you can use to exit the country (eg it may not work for Timor-Leste).
Fines for overstaying your visa expiration date are 300,000Rp per day and include additional hassles.
Volunteering
There are excellent opportunities for aspiring volunteers in Indonesia, but Lonely Planet does not endorse any organisations that we do not work with directly, so it's essential that you do your own thorough research before agreeing to volunteer with or donate to any organisation. A three-month commitment is recommended for working with children.
ABorneo Orangutan Survival Foundation (www.orangutan.or.id) Accepts volunteers for its orangutan and sun bear rehabilitation and reforestation programs.
East Bali Poverty Project (
%0361-410 071; www.eastbalipovertyproject.org) Works to help children in the impoverished mountain villages of East Bali. Uses English teachers.
IDEP (Indonesian Development of Education & Permaculture; %0361-294993; www.idepfoundation.org) Has projects across Indonesia; works on environmental projects, disaster planning and community improvement.
AProFauna (www.profauna.net) A large nonprofit animal-protection organisation operating across Indonesia; has been active in protecting sea turtles.
ASea Sanctuaries Trust (www.seasanctuaries.org) Diving-based marine conservation volunteering in Raja Ampat.
Yayasan Bumi Sehat Operates an internationally recognised clinic and gives reproductive services to disadvantaged women in Ubud; accepts donated time from medical professionals.
8Getting Around
Air
Getting reliable information on Indonesian domestic flights is a challenge – many airlines don't show up on travel websites, although www.traveloka.com is fairly complete. You can also check with local airline offices and travel agents; local hotel and tour operators are often the best sources.
The domestic network continues to grow; schedules and rates are in a constant state of flux.
Small carriers servicing remote routes often operate cramped and dated aircraft.
With tiny regional airlines, reconfirm your ticket and hang around the check-in desk if the flight is full. Sometimes reservations are 'lost' when another passenger with more clout shows up.
Almost a dozen major airlines fly domestically. Air disasters are an ongoing problem for Indonesian airlines, especially fast-growing budget carriers.
Tickets
The larger Indonesian carriers have websites listing fares. However it may be hard, if not impossible, to purchase tickets over the internet using non-Indonesian credit cards. It's also usually difficult to purchase tickets at airports.
Travel agents are a good way to buy domestic tickets once in Indonesia, and often the best way to get the lowest fares. Airline city offices are another option.
Large international booking websites (such as Expedia) may only show Garuda Indonesia (www.garuda-indonesia.com) flights and then only offer very expensive airfares. Try the following to purchase tickets online:
Airline Websites Some carriers, notably Garuda Indonesia and Indonesia AirAsia, have websites that accept foreign accept cards. Lion Air is a notable exception.
skyscanner.com Accepts foreign cards but doesn't show all airlines.
tiket.com Not all foreign cards work but shows most domestic airlines.
traveloka.com Lists many domestic airlines although foreign cards don't always work. A good source for schedule info.
RELIABLE TRANSPORT INFO
In a country where accurate information for ferries, airlines and buses can be elusive at best, guesthouses, hotels and resorts are good sources of information, especially for more obscure destinations. They need you to reach them to stay in business and often can give you all the up-to-date details needed.
Bicycle
Bicycles can be hired in all major centres from hotels, travel agents and shops for 20,000Rp to 50,000Rp per day. The tropical heat, heavy traffic and poor road conditions make long-distance travel a challenge, but some hardy souls manage it.
Boat
Sumatra, Java, Bali and Nusa Tenggara are connected by ferries. Pelni, the national passenger line, covers the archipelago, albeit infrequently.
Pelni Ships
Pelni (www.pelni.co.id) has a fleet of large vessels linking Indonesia’s major ports and the majority of the archipelago’s outlying areas. Pelni’s website is a good resource, showing arrivals and departures about a month in advance, although times can change right until the vessel leaves port. (Note that service frequency can be sporadic, making Pelni a tough option for thoser with schedule and visa constraints.)
Pelni ships have four cabin classes, plus kelas ekonomi. Class I has two beds per cabin (and is often more expensive than using a low-cost airline); Class IV has eight beds to a cabin. Ekonomi is extremely basic, with mattresses that can be rented. However, these designations are often meaningless on the many boats that are both filthy and overcrowded. Book the best class of service you can afford, noting that the bathroom may be unworkable, the decks impassable with throngs of passengers and the food unpalatable.
You can book tickets up to two weeks ahead; it’s best to book at least a few days in advance.
Other Boats
Sumatra, Java, Bali, Nusa Tenggara and Sulawesi are all connected by regular ferries, and you can use them to island-hop all the way from Sumatra to Timor. These ferries run either daily or several times a week. Check with shipping companies, the harbour office or travel agents for current schedules and fares.
However, schedules are often vague, so be prepared to hang around until something turns up. Be warned that because vessels may be ancient and routinely overcrowded, safety standards are at times poor.
It’s also possible to make some more unusual sea trips. Tourist boats travelling between Lombok and Flores are popular.
TRAVELLING SAFELY BY BOAT
Boat safety is an important consideration across Indonesia, where boats that barely seem seaworthy may be your only option to travel between islands. In many cases these services are accidents waiting to happen, as safety regulation is lax at best.
This is especially true on the busy routes linking Bali, Nusa Lembongan, Lombok and the Gilis, where both the fast tourist boats and the public car ferries have had accidents. Given Indonesia's poor record, it is essential that you take responsibility for your own safety, as no one else will.
Consider the following points for any boat travel in Indonesia:
Bigger is better It may take you 30 minutes or more longer, but a larger boat will simply deal with the open ocean better than the over-powered small speedboats.
Check for safety equipment Make certain your boat has life preservers and that you know how to locate and use them. In an emergency, don’t expect a panicked crew to hand them out. Also, check for life rafts.
Avoid over-crowding Travellers report boats leaving with more people than seats and with aisles jammed with stacked luggage.
Look for exits Cabins may only have one narrow entrance, making them death traps in an accident.
Avoid fly-by-nighters Taking a fishing boat and jamming too many engines on the rear in order to cash in on booming tourism is a recipe for disaster.
Bus
Most Indonesians use buses to get around, so there is a huge variety of services, with everything from air-con deluxe buses with blaring TVs, toilets and karaoke that speed across the major islands, to trek (trucks) with wooden seats that rumble along remote dirt roads. Local buses are the cheapest; they leave when full and stop on request – on the outer islands this is often your only choice.
Look for 'public cars' or other permutations, which are minivans with air-con offering greater comfort and speed for about twice the rate of regular buses.
Car & Motorcycle
Self-drive small SUVs can be hired for as little as 80,000Rp to 150,000Rp a day with limited insurance in Bali, but become increasingly expensive and hard to come by the further you get from tourist areas. If you’re not happy negotiating Indonesia’s chaotic roads, a vehicle with driver can usually be hired for between 500,000Rp and 800,000Rp per day; the more remote areas tend to be the most expensive.
Motorcycles and scooters can be hired across Indonesia for 30,000Rp to 70,000Rp per day. Be sure to get a helmet, as wearing one is supposed to be compulsory.
Local Transport
Public minibuses (most commonly called bemos, but also known as colt, opelet, mikrolet, angkot, angkudes and pete-pete) are everywhere. Bemos run standard routes (fares average 3000Rp to 5000Rp), but can also be chartered like a taxi.
Cycle rickshaws are called becak, while bajaj are Indonesian túk-túk: three-wheelers that carry two passengers (three at a squeeze) and are powered by rasping two-stroke engines. In quieter towns, you may find horse-drawn carts, variously called dokar, cidomo, andong and ben hur.
An extremely handy form of transport is the ojek (motorcycle taxi); expect to pay about 2500Rp to 10,000Rp for a short ride. Most towns have taxis, which require careful negotiations. In major cities (Jakarta, South Bali etc) look for Bluebird taxis (which are reliable and use their meters) and Uber.
Train
Java has a good railway service running the length of the island. There is also an extremely limited rail service in Sumatra.
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