Indonesia

%62 / Pop 255 million

Why Go?

Indonesia defines adventure: the only limitation is how many of its 17,000-odd islands you can reach before your visa expires. Following the equator, Indonesia stretches between Malaysia and Australia in one long, intoxicating sweep. The nation’s natural diversity is staggering: snow-capped peaks in Papua, sandalwood forests in Sumba, dense jungle in Borneo and impossibly green rice paddies in Bali and Java. Indonesian reefs are a diver’s fantasy, while the surf breaks above are the best anywhere.

But even as the diversity on land and sea run like a traveller’s dream playlist, it’s the mash-up of people and cultures that’s the most appealing. Bali justifiably leads off, but there are also Papua’s stone-age folk, the many cultures of Flores and West Timor, the artisans of Java, mall-rats of Jakarta, orangutans of Sumatra and much more. Whether it’s an idyllic remote beach, a glorious discovery underwater or a Bali all-nighter, Indonesia scores.

When to Go

ASep–Mar Rainy season; starts later in the southeast. Rain everywhere in January and February.

AApr–Jun Dry days and highs that aren’t withering. Hill towns like Bali’s Ubud can be chilly at night.

AAug High season. Prices peak on Bali and the Gilis; book ahead. Remote spots may also fill up.

Best Beaches

AKuta Beach, Lombok

AGili Air

AKomodo National Park

APulau Ai

APantai Marosi, Sumba

Best Places for Cultural Connections

A Museum Nasional

ADance, Ubud

AFuneral rites, Tana Toraja

ABanda Islands

ATribal culture, Papua

Don’t Miss

With so many islands, it would be a shame not to get a sense of this vast archipelago by limiting your visit to only one or two – try to see as many as possible. Ferries – never luxurious, often a bit squalid – provide myriad links and truly adventurous island-hopping. Shorten distances with flights on any of the many discount airlines and connect overland dots with buses bombing down the middle of the road at breakneck speeds.

ITINERARIES

ONE WEEK

This is a tough one, but Bali is the obvious choice. Spend a couple of days in the south, possibly partying in Seminyak and/or surfing and chilling on the Bukit Peninsula. Head up to Ubud for rice-field walks and intoxicating culture. Catch a fast boat to/from the nearby Gili Islands for a heaving travellers’ scene.

ONE MONTH

Include your week on Bali and the Gilis, but start on Java and cross through the cultural city of Yogyakarta and the Unesco treasure of Borobudur. From Lombok catch ferries and buses across Sumbawa to Flores, with stops at beaches and dragon-filled Komodo. Finish your time either following the spine of Sulawesi, or head further east for Maluku’s idyllic Banda Islands, or track down orangutans on Kalimantan or Sumatra.

Essential Activities

ADiving & Snorkelling Diving highlights include western Flores and Komodo, the Gili Islands, Pulau Menjangan in Bali, Pulau Bunaken and the Togean Islands in Sulawesi, Pulau Weh in Sumatra, the Banda Islands in Maluku and the incredible Raja Ampat Islands in Papua.

ASpas & Treatments Bali leads the way, with a multitude of affordable salons and spas in all the main traveller centres.

ASurfing All the islands on the Indonesian archipelago's southern side, from Sumatra to Timor, get reliable – often exceptional – and sometimes downright frightening surf. Many start at the legendary breaks of Bali’s Bukit Peninsula, such as Ulu Watu.

AHiking In Java, organised hiking centres on some spectacular volcano hikes, such as Gunung Bromo and the Ijen Plateau. There’s more variety in Bali: the wonderful Gunung Batur region and the hills around Munduk, which offer walks amid cool hillside forests, spice plantations and waterfalls. Gunung Rinjani on Lombok is a dramatic and rewarding hike. On Sumatra, try the jungles of Bukit Lawang. The Baliem Valley in Papua is popular; Tana Toraja has fabulous trekking opportunities through Sulawesi’s spectacular traditional villages.

At a Glance

ACurrency Rupiah (Rp); 100,000Rp notes can be hard to break

ALanguage Bahasa Indonesia; English in tourist areas

AMoney ATMs in major centres; carry rupiah for remote islands

AVisas 30 days on arrival for most

AMobile phones SIMs (from 5000Rp) sold everywhere; cheap voice/data rates

Fast Facts

AArea 1.9 million sq km

ACapital Jakarta

AEmergency Ask the nearest local for advice

Exchange Rates

Australia	A$1	9,780Rp
Euro Zone	€1	14,500Rp
Malaysia	RM1	3,170Rp
Singapore	S$1	9,480Rp
UK	£1	18,680Rp
US	US$1	13,060Rp

Daily Costs

ABudget room 200,000Rp

AMeal 30,000Rp

ABeer 20,000Rp

ATwo-tank dive US$90

ALong-distance bus 100,000Rp

Entering the Country

Fly into Jakarta or Bali; flights to Sulawesi, Lombok etc also available. Ferries to Sumatra from Malaysia and Singapore are popular.

Indonesia Highlights

1 Surfing by day, parting at night and absorbing amazing culture in Bali.

2 Ascending the ancient Buddhist stupa of Borobudur before trawling the batik markets of nearby Yogyakarta.

3 Gazing at the iconic dragons at Komodo National Park, then rocking on in hopping Labuanbajo in Nusa Tenggara.

4 Paying primate-to-primate respects to the orangutans native to Sumatra and Kalimantan.

5 Diving the pristine walls and coral canyons beneath seas of dimpled glass at Pulau Bunaken in Sulawesi.

6 Exploring the lovely time capsule that is Maluku’s Banda Islands.

7 Hiking along raging rivers and scaling exposed ridges to reach interior Papua’s remote tribal villages in the Baliem Valley.

8 Diving and lazing following fun-filled nights on Nusa Tenggara's Gili Islands.

Java

The heart of the nation, Java is an island of megacities, mesmerising natural beauty, magical archaeological sites and profound traditions in art, music and dance.

Boasting a dazzling array of bewitching landscapes – iridescent rice paddies, smoking volcanoes, verdant rainforest and savannah, not to mention virgin beaches – most journeys here are defined by scenic wonders. The island is at its most excessive in the cities: crowded, polluted, concrete labyrinths that buzz and roar. Dive into Jakarta’s addictive mayhem, soak up Yogyakarta’s soul and stroll though Solo’s batik laneways en route to the island’s all-natural wonders.

Home to 140 million people, Java travel can be slow going, particularly in the west. However, the rail network is generally reliable and efficient, and flights are inexpensive. Your endurance will be rewarded with fascinating insights into Indonesia’s most complex and culturally compelling island.

8Getting There & Around

Air

Jakarta has numerous international and domestic connections; useful international gateway cities include Surabaya, Solo, Bandung, Yogyakarta and Semarang. Domestic fights can be very convenient and affordable: Jakarta–Yogyakarta is a popular route. If you're short on time, it’s worth booking a few internal flights to cut down on those hours on the road.

Boat

Very few travellers now use Pelni passenger ships, but there are connections between Jakarta and most ports in the nation.

There are very frequent ferries between Java and Bali, and from Java to Sumatra.

Bus

Buses connect virtually anywhere and everywhere in Java, and also run to Sumatra, Bali and even Nusa Tenggara. Unfortunately Java’s road network is woefully inadequate, so journeys tend to be very slow and tiring, particularly in the west of the island.

Train

Java has a fairly punctual and efficient rail service running right across the island. Overall, train travel certainly beats long bus journeys, so try to take as many as you can. You can check timetables and make online bookings at www.kereta-api.co.id, though it's not very user-friendly. Book ahead when you can.

Jakarta

%021 / Pop 10.2 million

One of the world’s greatest megalopolises, Jakarta is a dynamic city of daunting extremes – one that's developing at a pace that offers challenges and surreal juxtapositions on every street corner. An organism unto itself, this is a town in the midst of a very public metamorphosis, and despite the maddening traffic, life here is lived at an all-out rush, driven by an industriousness and optimism that's palpable. Dysfunction be damned.

Translation: it's no oil painting, yet beneath the unappealing facade of newly built high-rises, relentless concrete and gridlocked streets, fringed with rickety slums and shrouded in a persistent blanket of smog, Jakarta has many faces and plenty of surprises.

Jakarta

4Sleeping

1Fave HotelB5

2Packer LodgeB2

5Eating

3D'FestB5

6Drinking & Nightlife

4Potato Head GarageB4

7Shopping

5PasarayaA5

8Information

6Australian EmbassyB4

7Canadian EmbassyB4

8Dutch EmbassyB5

9Malaysian EmbassyB4

10New Zealand EmbassyA4

11Papua New Guinea EmbassyA4

12Singaporean EmbassyB5

13UK EmbassyB5

1Sights & Activities

Kota

Jakarta’s crumbling historic heart is Kota, home to the remnants of the Dutch capital of Batavia. Taman Fatahillah, the old town square, features cracked cobblestones, postcard vendors, fine colonial buildings, a flurry of museums and, on weekends, masses of locals enjoying a carnival-like atmosphere. Trains from Gondangdia, near Jl Jaksa, run here. A taxi will cost around 50,000Rp from Jl Thamrin.

In and around Taman Fatahillah are a number of interesting buildings and monuments, including the Gereja Sion ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Pangeran Jayakarta), the oldest remaining church in Jakarta. It was built in 1695 for the ‘black Portuguese’, who were brought to Batavia as slaves and given their freedom if they joined the Dutch Reformed Church.

Some fine Dutch architecture lines the grotty Kali Besar canal, including the Toko Merah ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Kali Besar Barat, Red Shop), formerly the home of Governor General van Imhoff. Further north, the Chicken Market Bridge – the last remaining Dutch drawbridge – spans the canal.

Also don’t miss a drink at the Café Batavia, which drips with colonial nostalgia.

Kota & Sunda Kelapa

1Sights

1Balai Seni RupaC3

2Gereja SionC3

3Jin De YuanB4

4Museum BahariA1

5Museum Bank IndonesiaB3

6Museum Bank MandiriB3

7Museum Sejarah JakartaB3

8Museum WayangB3

9Petak Sembilan Street MarketB4

10Toko MerahB3

5Eating

11HistoriaB3

12Kedai Seni DjakartéB3

13Santong Kuo Tieh 68B4

Warung Kota TuaB3

6Drinking & Nightlife

14Café BataviaB3

Museum Bank IndonesiaMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Pintu Besar Utara III; audio guides 50,000Rp; h8am-3.30pm Tue-Thu, 8-11.30am & 1-3.30pm Fri, 8am-4pm Sat & Sun)F

One of the nation's best, this museum is dedicated to the history of Indonesia from a loosely financial perspective, in a grand, expertly restored, neo-classical former bank headquarters that dates from the early 20th century. All the displays (including lots of zany audiovisuals) are slickly presented on flat screens and engaging, with exhibits about the spice trade and the financial meltdown of 1997 (and subsequent riots) as well as a gallery dedicated to currency, with notes from virtually every country in the world.

Museum Sejarah JakartaMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Taman Fatahillah; admission 5000Rp; h9am-3pm Tue-Sun)

Also known as Museum Kesejarahan Jakarta, the Jakarta History Museum is housed in the old town hall of Batavia, a stately Dutch colonial structure that was once the epicentre of an empire. This bell-towered building, built in 1627, served the administration of the city and was also used by the city law courts. Today it’s a poorly presented museum of peeling plasterwork and lots of heavy, carved ebony and teak furniture from the Dutch period.

Museum WayangMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-692 9560; Taman Fatahillah; admission 5000Rp; h9am-3pm Tue-Sun)

This puppet museum has one of the best collections of wayang puppets in Java and its dusty cabinets are full of a multitude of characters from across Indonesia, as well as China, Vietnam, India, Cambodia and Europe. The building itself dates from 1912. There are free wayang performances here on Sunday at 10am. Be warned: we have received reports of a scam involving freelance guides who pressure people into making exorbitant purchases after a tour of the exhibits.

Museum Bank MandiriMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Pintu Besar Utara; h9am-3pm Tue-Sun)F

In complete contrast to the polish and modernity at the Museum Bank Indonesia next door, this banking museum is all but empty, with echoing corridors and deserted tills. Nevertheless it's fascinating to explore the interior of this fine art deco structure, marvelling at the marble counters and vintage counting machines, abacuses and colossal cast-iron safes.

Balai Seni RupaMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Taman Fatahillah; admission 5000Rp; h9am-3pm Tue-Sun)

Built between 1866 and 1870, the former Palace of Justice building is now a fine arts museum. It houses contemporary paintings with works by prominent artists, including Affandi, Raden Saleh and Ida Bagus Made. Part of the building is also a ceramics museum, with Chinese ceramics and Majapahit terracottas.

Sunda Kelapa

Among the hubbub, floating debris and oil slicks, the old Dutch port of Sunda Kelapa (admission 2000Rp) is full of magnificent Makassar schooners (pinisi). The dock scene here has barely changed for centuries, with porters still unloading cargo from sailing ships by hand and trolley, though it's far less busy today. The port is a 1km walk from Taman Fatahillah.

Museum BahariMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.museumbahari.org; admission 5000Rp; h9am-3pm Tue-Sun)

Near the entrance to Sunda Kelapa, several old VOC warehouses (dating back to 1652) have been converted into the Museum Bahari. This is a good place to learn about the city’s maritime history, and though the wonderful old buildings (some renovated) are echoingly empty, there are some good information panels (in English and Bahasa Indonesia).

Central Jakarta

If you had to choose a centre for this sprawling city, then Merdeka Square (Lapangan Merdeka) would be it. This huge grassy expanse, home to Sukarno’s monument to the nation, is surrounded by a couple of museums and some fine colonial buildings.

Central Jakarta

1Top Sights

1Museum NasionalA3

1Sights

2Gereja Katerdral JakartaC2

3Lapangan BantengC2

4MonasB3

4Sleeping

5Gondia International GuesthouseC5

6Six DegreesD6

5Eating

7Lara DjonggrangC6

6Drinking & Nightlife

8Dua NyonyaD5

3Entertainment

9Taman Ismail MarzukiD5

7Shopping

10Flea MarketD7

11Plaza IndonesiaA6

oMuseum NasionalMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-381 1551; www.museumnasional.or.id; Jl Merdeka Barat 12; admission 10,000Rp; h8am-4pm Tue-Fri, 8am-5pm Sat-Sun)

The National Museum, built in 1862, is the best of its kind in Indonesia and an essential visit. The enormous collection begins in an open courtyard stacked with magnificent millennia old statuary including a colossal 4.5m stone image of a Bhairawa king from Rambahan in Sumatra, who is shown trampling on human skulls. The ethnology section is superb, with Dayak puppets and wooden statues from Nias sporting beards (a sign of wisdom) plus some fascinating textiles.

Lapangan BantengAREA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Banteng Sq)

Just east of Merdeka Sq, Lapangan Banteng has some of Jakarta’s best colonial architecture. The twin spired Catholic cathedral ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Katedral 7B) was built in 1901. Directly opposite is Jakarta’s principal place of Muslim worship. The striking, modernist Mesjid Istiqlal, highlighted by geometrically grated windows, was designed by Catholic architect Frederich Silaban and completed in 1978. The mosque has five levels, representing the five pillars of Islam; its dome is 45m across and its minaret tops 90m.

MonasMONUMENT

(Monumen Nasional; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Merdeka Sq; museum entry 5,000Rp, to reach the top 10,000Rp; h8.30am-5pm, closed last Mon of month)

Ingloriously dubbed ‘Sukarno’s final erection’, this 132m-high National Monument, which rises into the shroud of smog and towers over Merdeka Sq, is both Jakarta’s principal landmark and the most famous architectural extravagance of the former president. Begun in 1961, Monas was not completed until 1975, when it was officially opened by Suharto. The monument is constructed from Italian marble, and is topped with a sculpted flame, gilded with 35kg of gold leaf.

Glodok

The neighbourhood of Glodok, the traditional enclave of the Chinese community, is an archetypal downtown district full of bustling lanes, street markets, a shabby mall or two and some of the world’s most decadent nightlife.

Most of the fun here is simply experiencing the local vibe, eating some dumplings and browsing the myriad stalls and shops.

Jin De YuanBUDDHIST TEMPLE

(Dharma Bhakti Temple; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.jindeyuan.org; Jl Kemenangan III 13)F

This large Chinese Buddhist temple compound dates from 1755 and is one of the most important in the city. The main structure has an unusual roof crowned by two dragons eating pearls, while the interior is richly atmospheric: dense incense and candle smoke waft over Buddhist statues, ancient bells and drums, and some wonderful calligraphy. Unfortunately recent Chinese New Year celebrations – including fireworks – set fire to half of the original structure. It was undergoing reconstruction when we visited.

Petak Sembilan Street MarketMARKET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

Be sure to wander down the impossibly narrow Petak Sembilan street market off Jl Pancoran, lined with crooked houses with red-tiled roofs. It’s a total assault on the senses, with skinned frogs and live bugs for sale next to an open sewer.

TTours

Hidden Jakarta ToursTOURS

(%0812 803 5297; www.realjakarta.blogspot.com; US$50 per person)

Want to see the other Jakarta, away from air-conditioned malls? Jakarta Hidden offers tours of the city's traditional kampung, the urban villages of the poor. These warts-and-all tours take you along trash-choked riverways, into cottage industry factories and allow you to take tea in residents' homes.

zFestivals & Events

Independence DayCULTURAL

Indonesia’s independence is celebrated on 17 August; the parades in Jakarta are the biggest in the country.

Java Jazz FestivalMUSIC

(www.javajazzfestival.com)

Held at the Jakarta Convention Center in early March in Senayan. Attracts acclaimed international artists, including jazz heavyweights like Ramsey Lewis and Brad Mehldau. Crossover pop stars such as Bobby McFerrin and Michelle Ndegeocello played in 2015.

Jakarta AnniversaryFAIR

The 22nd of June marks the establishment of the city in 1527. Celebrated with fireworks and the Jakarta Fair.

JiFFestFILM

(Jakarta International Film Festival; %021-3005 6090; www.muvila.com/jiffest)

Internationally sponsored and lauded, Indonesia’s premier film festival is held in November and December.

4Sleeping

Backpackers be prepared: Jakarta lacks good budget options, so book ahead or consider a midrange option (which are plentiful). Jalan Jaska was once Jakarta's backpacking hub, but travellers are thin on the ground these days, probably because most hotels on Jl Jaksa are grungy (if not outright sleazy). That said, you'll find a selection of restaurants and bars and some terrific midrange accommodations on nearby Jl Wayid Hasim and Jl Sabang. The location, near Jl Thamrin (for the busway) and Gambir train station, is excellent.

oHostel 35GUESTHOUSE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-392 0331; Jl Kebon Sirih Barat I 35; r with fan/air-con 150,000/250,000Rp; aW)

A good option for the price. The clean, if aged, tiled rooms have high ceilings and come with breakfast, and the lobby/lounge area with rattan sofas is inviting and decorated with fine textiles and tasteful photography.

Packer LodgeHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-629 0162; www.thepackerlodge.com; Jl Kermunian IV 20-22; dm 145,000-155,000Rp, s 205,000-215,000Rp, d 310,000Rp; aW)

The new cute hostel on the block, this self-annointed, owner-operated boutique hostel set in Glodok offers hip, Ikea-chic environs and plenty of amenities close to the Kota. Choose among the four- or eight-bed dorms where the bunks are curtained pods with electrical outlets, lights and USB chargers. Earplugs included.

Six DegreesHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-314 1657; www.jakarta-backpackers-hostel.com; Jl Cikini Raya 60B-C, Cikini; dm 125,000-160,000Rp, d 280,000Rp; aiW)

Set in a mini-mall, this hostel – run by a helpful and friendly Irish/English/Sumatran team – remains popular with travellers. There's a relaxed, sociable atmosphere, a pool table and large-screen TV room, a guests' kitchen and roof garden. Dorms are tight but clean; breakfast is included. It's tricky to find, but located right opposite the Ibis Budget hotel.

Gondia International GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-390 9221; gondiaguesthouse.com; Jl Gondangdia Kecil 22; r 400,000-500,000Rp; a)

This modest looking guesthouse, with hostel-esque signage, occupies a leafy garden plot on a quiet suburban street and has spacious tiled rooms. Breakfast included.

oKosenda HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-3193 6868; kosendahotel.com; Jl KH Wahid Hasyim 127; r from 750,000Rp; paW)

Hip but not overbearing, minimalist and modern but comfortable, rooms aren't huge but they are very clean and tastefully designed with wall-length built-in desks, floating beds and glass-box baths. Prices are a steal when offered on booking websites. They do a lovely breakfast buffet, make excellent coffee, have a good 24hr restaurant in the lobby and a superb rooftop bar.

Max OneHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-316 6888; www.maxonehotels.com; Jl Agus Salim 24; r from 550,000Rp; aiW)

A moderately priced hip hotel. Rooms are smallish but nicely styled, with a pleasing pastel colour scheme. We love the steep weekend discounts, in-house minimart and excellent location.

Fave HotelHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-718 1320; favehotels.com; Jl Kemang 16, Kemang; r from 421,200Rp)

Modern and creative, this edition of the Indonesian, three-star micro-hotel offers small but livable quarters with room service, pre-fab furnishings, plush linens and not much else. Still a solid value.

5Eating

Jakarta is a world-class eating destination. You'll find amazing options, including oh-so-refined Javanese Imperial cuisine, hit-the-spot street grub and, if you're pining for something familiar, even Western faves.

Two excellent street-food hot spots are Jl Pecenongan (about 500m north of Monas), for sate babi (pork sate) and fresh seafood, and Jl Sabang (just west of Jl Jaksa) for sate ayam (chicken sate) with lontong (sticky rice) and other delicacies.

Shopping malls are also good tucker terrain – many have inexpensive food courts.

Jalan Jaksa Area

Jalan Jaksa has a crop of backpacker-geared cafes and many authentic places on nearby streets.

Jalan Jaksa Area

4Sleeping

1Hostel 35C1

2Kosenda HotelA2

3Max OneB1

5Eating

4Daoen SirihC1

5GarudaA2

6KL VillageC1

7Sate Khas SenayanC1

6Drinking & Nightlife

Awan LoungeA2

Daoen SirihINDONESIAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Kebon Sirih 41-43; meals 12,000-25,000Rp; h11am-10pm)

Non-touristy and a short stroll northwest of Jl Jaksa, this large bamboo-roofed, open-sided food court has a wide selection of cook-shacks offering dishes such as nasi goreng kambing (spicy rice with goat) and sate madura (skewered meat with sweet soy sauce), as well as noodles and espresso.

KL VillageMALAY, INDONESIAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-3192 5219; Jl Jaksa 21-23; mains from 23,000Rp; h7am-11pm Sun-Wed, 24hr Thu-Sat; W)

Ever-popular Malaysian-style place that serves up inexpensive grub such as black-pepper chicken, canai (Malay-Indian bread) and martabak (stuffed pancake). If you're suffering after a long flight (or a long night), try one of the health-kick juices: 'heart and the brain' or 'sugar balance'.

Sate Khas SenayanINDONESIAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-3192 6238; Jl Kebon Sirih Raya 31A; mains 30,000-50,000Rp; h11.30am-10pm; W)

Upmarket air-conditioned restaurant at the northern end of Jl Jaksa. It is renowned for its superb sate – skewers of chicken, beef and lamb – plus Indonesian favourites such as ayam goreng kremes (fried chicken in batter) and gurame bakar (grilled fish).

oGarudaINDONESIAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-6262 9440; Jl Hayam Wuruk 100; meals from 100,000Rp; h24hr; W)

A smoky, fluorescent-lit, all-day, all-night depot of locally loved Padang food goodness, throbbing with Bollywood tunes and Indo-pop, and packed with locals. Little dishes of tempting flavours are piled on your table with lightning speed: jackfruit curry, chilli prawns, tempe penyet (fried tempe with spicy sauce), rendang (beef coconut curry), potato and corn fritters. All of it made fresh.

If you touch one part, you buy it all, so prices add up. But it's so worth it.

SPLURGE

If a never-ending diet of nasi goreng is leaving you a little jaded, you'll find that Jakarta is a great place to splash out on something that’ll make your taste buds love you again. Lara Djonggrang ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-315 3252; www.tuguhotels.com/laradjonggrang; Jl Teuku Cik Ditiro 4; mains 48,000-108,000Rp; h12.30pm-11pm; W), where you dine surrounded by museum-worthy statues, antiques and temple treasures, is a very civilised setting for sublime Imperial Javanese cuisine. For tasty dishes from around the archipelago, Historia ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-3176 0555; Jl Pintu Besar Utara 11; mains 35,000-73,000Rp; h10am-10pm Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat) serves excellent Indonesian fare in hip, tiled warehouse environs with soaring ceilings and an attached bar where DJs spin and bands rock out.

Other Areas

The upmarket suburb of Kemang is popular with expats for its stylish bars, clubs and restaurants, but backpackers are a rare species here. It does have a couple of food courts where you can chow down on the cheap before clubbing till dawn.

The Kota neighbourhood has a few options. Most are aimed at the tourist market (both domestic and international) but they're generally very pleasant places for a slow lunch in between bouts of sightseeing.

D'FestFOOD COURT$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Kemang Raya 19C; mains 20,000-60,000Rp; h5pm-midnight)

Very sociable and popular open-air food court complete with stylish sofa seating and an array of international and local food stalls. It has Middle Eastern kebab joints, lots of Japanese options, soto (soup) places, roti canai (Malay-Indian flaky flat bread), plus a beerhouse. There's often live music here on weekend nights.

Santong Kuo Tieh 68CHINESE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-692 4716; Jl Pancoran; 10 dumplings 20,000Rp; h10am-9pm)

You'll see cooks preparing fried and steamed Chinese pork dumplings out front of this humble but highly popular little place. The bakso ikan isi (fish balls) are also good.

Warung Kota TuaINDONESIAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Pintu Besar Utara 11; meals 20,000-25,000Rp; h8am-8pm)

On the west side of Taman Fatahillah square, this semi-renovated old warehouse (an open-sided space with exposed brick walls and artwork) is a relaxed location for a reasonably priced meal, coffee, tea or juice. Try the ayam bakar (grilled chicken), mie medan (Sumatran noodles) or nasi cap cai (rice with mixed vegetables).

Kedai Seni DjakartéINDONESIAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Pintu Besar Utara 17; mains 21,000-45,000Rp; h9am-9pm Sun-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat)

One of several similar places around Taman Fatahillah square, this is installed in the basement of an old Dutch building. You can eat inside under the ceiling fans or sweat it out on the outdoor tables. The cheap and tasty dishes are classic Indonesian comfort food (think nasi goreng).

6Drinking & Nightlife

If you’re expecting the capital of the world’s largest Muslim country to be a sober city with little in the way of drinking culture, think again. Bars are spread throughout the city, with casual places grouped around Jl Jaksa, fancy-pants rooftop lounge bars and beer gardens in central and south Jakarta and many more places in between. Cafe culture has really taken off in the last few years.

Jakarta has been one of Southeast Asia's biggest clubbing hot spots for decades, thanks to great venues (mostly dark ’n’ sleazy in the north of the city and polished 'n' pricey in the south), internationally renowned DJs and bombastic sound systems. Entrance typically costs 50,000Rp to 100,000Rp, but includes a free drink.

The recent national crackdown on selling beer and alcohol has cost some restaurants their liquor license; the ban on selling beer from minimarts was still in effect in Jakarta in 2015, even while the law was reversed in Bali. In addition, the so-called 'no-fun initiative' capped closing time of all bars and clubs at midnight, though enforcement has been lax thus far.

Listings websites such as www.indo-clubbing.com, www.jakarta100bars.com and (especially) www.whatsnewjakarta.com can be helpful for planning your night out.

oAwan LoungeBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.awanlounge.com; Jl Wahid Hasyim 127; h5pm-1am Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat)

Set on the top floor of Kosenda Hotel, here is a lovely rooftop garden bar that manages to be both understated and dramatic. There's a vertical garden, ample tree cover, plenty of private nooks flickering with candlelight and a vertigo-inducing glass skylight that plummets nine floors down.

Potato Head GarageCLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-5797 3330; www.pttgarage.com; Jl Sudirman 52-53; cover charge varies; h11am-1am)

Leave it to the Potato Heads to convert an abandoned stadium into a massive thumping dance club, swirling with style. They serve food, and the decor is typically tasteful with a lean toward vintage, but this is first and foremost a dance spot where you and 1000 friends can get loose and rejoice in the night.

Café BataviaBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.cafebatavia.com; Jl Pintu Besar Utara 14)

This classy restaurant doubles as an evocative place for a cocktail, a cool Bintang or a coffee.

Dua NyonyaCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.duanyonyacafe.com; Jl Cikini Raya 27; h11am-10pm)

Primarily a cafe, Dua Nyonya is an intimate place on two levels that serves fine Indonesian coffee (from Bali, Toraja and Aceh) and traditional food including rice dishes such as nasi bebek goreng keramat (fried rice with duck). Classical music and art add to the ambience.

CULTURAL CONSIDERATIONS

Generally Indonesians are a relaxed lot, but that’s no reason to trample on their sensibilities.

Indonesia is a conservative, largely Muslim country; while bikinis and Speedos are tolerated in the beach resorts of Bali, be sure to respect local clothing traditions elsewhere. This is particularly true near a mosque or other holy place.
Couples should avoid canoodling or kissing in public.
You have to haggle in Indonesia, but it’s important to do so respectfully and learn when to draw the line. It’s very bad form to shout or lose your temper. Remember that a few extra rupiah may make a great deal of difference to the other party.
Learning a little Bahasa Indonesia, which is very easy to pick up, will get you a long way. Not only will you delight the locals, but it’ll save you cash when it comes to dealing with stall owners, hoteliers and becak (bicycle rickshaw) drivers.

3Entertainment

Taman Ismail MarzukiPERFORMING ARTS

(TIM; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-3193 7325; www.tamanismailmarzuki.com; Jl Cikini Raya 73)

Jakarta's premier cultural centre has a great selection of cinemas, theatres and exhibition spaces. Performances (such as Sundanese dance and gamelan music events) are always high quality and the complex has a couple of good casual restaurants too.

7Shopping

Jakartans love their air-conditioned malls – there are over 100 in the metropolitan area. Cikini and Menteng are the destinations for glitzy malls, all manner of electronics and one hell of a flea market.

Flea MarketMARKET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Surabaya; h8am-4pm)

Jakarta’s famous flea market is in Menteng. It has woodcarvings, furniture, textiles, jewellery, old vinyl records and many (dubious) antiques. Bargain like crazy.

Plaza IndonesiaMALL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.plazaindonesia.com; Jl Thamrin 28-30; W)

This mall is centrally located and very classy, with a wide selection of stores that includes leading Indonesian design boutiques and the likes of Cartier and Lacroix. Check out Toko Ampuh for local medicines and remedies and Batik Karis for high-quality Indonesian batik. In the basement there’s an excellent, inexpensive food mall.

PasarayaDEPARTMENT STORE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.pasaraya.co.id; Jl Iskandarsyah II/2)

Opposite Blok M Mall, this department store has two huge floors that seem to go on forever and are devoted to batik and handicrafts from throughout the archipelago.

8Information

Dangers & Annoyances

For such a huge city with obvious social problems, Jakarta is surprisingly safe. Violent crime is rare and tourists are seldom targeted. You should exercise more caution after dark, however, particularly late at night in Glodok and Kota, where there are some seedy clubs and bars. Robberies by taxi drivers have been known to take place, so always opt for reputable firms, such as the citywide Bluebird group.

Jakarta’s buses and trains can be hopelessly crowded, particularly during rush hours – this is when pickpockets ply their trade.

Emergency

Tourist PolicePOLICE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %021-566000; Jl KH Wahid Hasyim)

On the 2nd floor of the Jakarta Theatre.

Internet Access

Free wi-fi is common in cafes, restaurants, hotels and malls. Internet cafes are not easily found in the central area.

Medical Services

SOS Medika KlinikMEDICAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %021-750 6001; Jl Puri Sakti 10, Cipete; h7am-10pm)

Offers English-speaking GP appointments, dental care, and emergency and specialist healthcare services.

Money

There are banks all over the city – you’re never far from an ATM in Jakarta.

Tourist Information

Jakarta Visitor Information OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %021-316 1293, 021-314 2067; www.jakarta-tourism.go.id; Jl KH Wahid Hasyim 9; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat)

Inside the Jakarta Theatre building. A helpful office; the staff here can answer many queries and set you up with tours of West Java. Practical information can be lacking but there is a good stock of leaflets and publications and a colour map. There’s also a desk at the airport.

8Getting There & Away

Jakarta is the main travel hub for Indonesia, with flights and ships to destinations all over the archipelago. Buses depart for cities across Java, and for Bali and Sumatra; trains are also an excellent way to get across Java.

Air

All international flights and most domestic flights operate from Soekarno-Hatta International Airport (CGK; www.jakartaairportonline.com). Check their website for information and schedules.

Boat

Pelni shipping services operate on regular schedules to ports all over the archipelago. The Pelni ticketing office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %021-6385 0960, 021-439 3106; www.pelni.co.id; Jl Angkasa 18) is in Kemayoran, northeast of the city centre. Tickets (plus commission) can also be bought from the agent Kerta Jaya ( GOOGLE MAP ; %021-345 1518; Jl Veteran I 27), opposite Mesjid Istiqlal.

Pelni ships all arrive at and depart from Pelabuhan Satu (dock No 1) at Tanjung Priok, 13km northeast of the city centre. Busway Koridor 12 provides a direct bus link; a taxi from Jl Jaksa is around 120,000Rp.

Bus

Jakarta’s four major bus terminals are all a long way from the city centre. Take the TransJakarta busway to these terminals as the journey can take hours otherwise. Trains are generally a better alternative for travelling to/from Jakarta. Tickets (some including travel to the terminals) for the better buses can be bought from agencies.

AKalideres Serves points west of Jakarta. Buses run to Merak (35,000Rp, 2½ hours) and Labuan (50,000Rp, 3½ hours). A few buses go to Sumatra from Kalideres, but most depart from Pulo Gadung terminal. Take Busway Koridor 3 to get there.

AKampung Rambutan Mainly handles buses to points south and southwest of Jakarta such as Bogor (normal/air-con 12,000/20,000Rp, 45 minutes), Cianjur (air-con 35,000Rp, 2½ hours), Bandung (normal/air-con 50,000/60,000Rp, three hours), Pangandaran (85,000Rp to 90,000Rp, eight to nine hours) and Pelabuhan Ratu (55,000Rp, four hours). Take Busway Koridor 7 to get there.

APulo Gadung Buses to Bandung, Central and East Java, Sumatra, Bali and even Nusa Tenggara. Bandung buses travel the toll road (47,000-60,000Rp, three hours), as do the long-haul Yogyakarta coaches (200,000Rp to 260,000Rp, 12 hours). Sumatra is another long haul from Jakarta by bus, but destinations include Bengkulu (from 300,000Rp) and Palembang (from 350,000Rp). Take Busway 2 or 4 to get the terminal.

ALebak Bulus Long-distance deluxe buses to Yogyakarta, Surabaya and Bali; take Koridor 8 to get there.

Minibus

Door-to-door travel minibuses are not a good option in Jakarta: it can take hours to pick up or drop off passengers in the traffic jams. Some travel agencies book them, but you may have to go to a depot on the city outskirts.

Train

Jakarta’s four main train stations are quite central, making trains the easiest way out of the city. The most convenient and important is Gambir station, on the eastern side of Merdeka Sq, a 15-minute walk from Jl Jaksa. Gambir handles express trains to Bogor, Bandung, Yogyakarta, Solo, Semarang and Surabaya. Pasar Senen station is to the east and mostly has economy-class trains, while Tanah Abang station has economy trains to the west. Jakarta Kota station is in the north; some trains from Gambir stop here.

Check timetables online at www.kereta-api.co.id, or consult the helpful staff at the station’s information office. There’s a slightly pricey taxi booking desk inside Gambir station; the fare to Jl Jaksa is roughly 45,000Rp. Popular destinations include the following:

ABogor Trains leave from Gambir and Jakarta Kota stations. Air-conditioned trains (one hour, 15,000Rp) leave hourly or so; there are also much slower (and dirtier) ekonomi trains (two hours, 8000Rp). All trains are horribly crowded during rush hours.

ABandung There are frequent trains to Bandung along a scenic hilly track, but be sure to book in advance (especially on weekends and public holidays). Comfortable Argo Parahyangan services depart from Gambir station six times daily (business 60,000Rp, executive 80,000Rp to 95,000Rp, 3¼ hours) between 5.55am and 8.25pm.

AYogyakarta and Solo From Gambir there are six daily exclusive-class trains (300,000Rp to 450,000Rp, 7¼ to nine hours) to Yogyakarta, leaving between 8am and 8.45pm; four of these continue to Solo, 45 minutes further on.

ASurabaya There are four daily exclusive-class trains between Gambir station and Surabaya (395,000Rp to 520,000Rp, 10½ to 11 hours).

8Getting Around

Taxis and the TransJakarta busway network are most travellers' normal way of getting about the city. Other buses are not very useful for visitors, as they are much slower, hotter (no air-con) and crowded (pickpockets can be a problem).

To/From the Airport

Jakarta’s Soekarno-Hatta International Airport is 35km west of the city centre. A toll road links the airport to the city; the journey takes about an hour (longer during rush hour).

Damri (%021-550 1290, 021-460 3708; www.busbandara.com; 40,000Rp; hevery 15 to 30 minutes) airport buses run between 4am and 8pm to Gambir train station (near Jl Jaksa) and several other points in the city, including Blok M, Tanjung Priok and Kampung Rambutan bus station. From Gambir train station to Jl Jaksa or Cikini, a taxi is around 45,000Rp, or you could walk (it’s just under 1km). Damri buses also run regularly to Bogor (55,000Rp to 75,000Rp, every 15 to 30 minutes). Taxis from the airport to Jl Thamrin/Jl Jaksa cost about 170,000Rp to 200,000Rp including tolls. Be sure to book via the official taxi desks, rather than using the unlicensed drivers outside.

AHalim Perdana Kusuma Airport (HLP), 11km south of the Cikini district, is not served by pubic transport. A taxi from central Jakarta costs around 100,000Rp.

Bus

Jakarta has the good TransJakarta express busway system, which has really sped up city travel in recent years. One of the most useful routes is Koridor 1, which runs north to Kota, past Monas and along Jl Sudirman. The tourist office can provide a map that plots the busway routes.

Local Transport

Bajaj (bah-jai) are similar to Indonesian túk-túks, though they're not that common these days. If you hire one keep in mind that they're not allowed on many major thoroughfares.

Ojek are motorcycle taxis. Drivers wait on busy street corners and usually wear a fluorescent-coloured vest. Getting about Jakarta on two wheels is a lot quicker than in a car, though it's obviously less safe and you're directly exposed to the city's air pollution. Negotiate a price first; a short ride will be about 20,000Rp. A new city-wide ojek network called Go-Jek (%021-725 1110; www.go-jek.com) has recently been introduced, using registered drivers and an app so you can book and pay directly from your smart phone (much like Uber).

In Kota you'll find becak – bicycle rickshaws with an additional padded seat on the back. These contraptions are ideal for shuttling to and from Sunda Kelapa; expect to pay 10,000Rp to 20,000Rp for a short ride.

Taxi

Taxis are inexpensive in Jakarta. All are metered and cost 5000Rp to 8000Rp for the first kilometre and around 300Rp for each subsequent 100m. Tipping is expected, if not demanded. Many taxi drivers provide a good service, but Jakarta has enough rogues to give its taxis a variable reputation. Stick to reputable companies such as Bluebird cabs (%021-794 1234; www.bluebirdgroup.com); a minimum of 30,000Rp is charged for ordered taxis. Uber is also in Jakarta these days, and can frequently be the same price and more comfortable than a taxi. Any tolls and parking fees – there are lots of them – are extra and paid by the passenger.

Bogor

%0251 / Pop 1.02 million

‘A romantic little village’ is how Sir Stamford Raffles described Bogor when he made it his country home during the British interregnum. As an oasis of unpredictable weather – it's credited with 322 thunderstorms a year – cool, quiet Bogor was the chosen retreat of colonials escaping the stifling, crowded capital.

Today, the long arm of Jakarta reaches the whole way to Bogor, infecting this second city with the overspill of the capital’s perennial traffic and air-quality problems. The city itself isn't charmless, however. The local people are quite warm and friendly and the world-class botanical gardens are still beautiful; both are certainly worthy of a visit.

1Sights

Jl Suryakencana, steps from the garden gates, is a whirlwind of activity as shoppers spill en masse from within the byzantine concrete halls of Pasar Baru ( GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Jl Otto Iskandardinata & Suryakencana; h6am-1pm) onto the street. Inside, the morning market is awash with all manner of produce and flowers, meat and fish, second-hand clothes and more. Hot, sweltering and loud, it's a hell of a browse. Dive into the barter and trade to really experience Bogor.

Kebun RayaGARDENS

(Great Garden; GOOGLE MAP ; www.bogor.indo.net.id/kri; admission 26,000Rp; h8am-5pm)

At the heart of Bogor are the fabulous botanical gardens, known as the Kebun Raya, the city’s green lung of around 87 hectares. Governor General Raffles first developed a garden here, but the spacious grounds of the Istana Bogor (Presidential Palace) were expanded by Dutch botanist Professor Reinwardt, with assistance from London’s Kew Gardens, and officially opened in 1817. Colonial cash crops, such as tea, cassava, tobacco and cinchona, were first developed here by Dutch botanists.

4Sleeping

Most people visit Bogor on a day trip from Jakarta.

Abu PensioneGUESTHOUSE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0251-832 2893; Jl Mayor Oking 15; r with fan/air-con from 175,000/275,000Rp; a)

Safe, secure and set back from the road, rooms around the garden are spacious and well maintained, others facing the river at the rear are a bit dark. All are fine for a night or two. It's across the street from the train station and well-located for ramblers.

5Eating

For street food check out the night market along Jl Dewi Sartika and Jl Jenderal Sudirman. If it's raining, the food court inside the Botani Square shopping mall is another good bet.

oDe' LeuitINDONESIAN$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0251-839 0011; Jl Pakuan III; meals 10,000-99,000Rp; h11am-9pm; Wv)

The most happening eatery in Bogor. There's seating on three floors beneath a soaring, pyramid-shaped thatched roof, though the best tables are on the first two levels. It does sate, mixed rice dishes, fried fish and chicken, as well as a variety of local veggie dishes. Come with a group and eat Sundanese family style.

Grand Garden CaféINTERNATIONAL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0251-835 0023; inside Kebun Raya; mains 30,000-80,000Rp; h10am-8pm Mon-Thu, 10am-10pm Fri-Sun)

The cafe-restaurant in the botanical gardens is a wonderfully civilised place for a bite or a drink, with sweeping views down to the water lily ponds. It's a little pricey, but the tasty international and Indonesian food and sublime setting make it an essential stop.

8Information

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %081 6195 3838; Jl Dewi Sartika 51; h8am-6pm)

The friendly team here can help out with most queries about the region, provide a city map and also offer excellent, well-priced tours.

8Getting There & Away

Bus

Buses to Bogor depart from Jakarta’s Kampung Rambutan bus terminal (10,000Rp to 15,000Rp, 45 minutes) every 15 minutes or so.

Buses depart frequently to Bandung (economy/air-con, 50,000/60,000Rp, 3½ hours), Pelabuhan Ratu (55,000Rp, three hours) and Labuan (55,000Rp, four hours). For Cianjur (30,000Rp, two hours), white minibuses (called colt) depart regularly from Jl Raya Pajajaran. Door-to-door travel minibuses go to Bandung for 100,000Rp.

Damri buses head direct to Jakarta’s Soekarno-Hatta International Airport (55,000Rp, two to three hours) every 20 minutes (from 4am to 11pm) from Jl Raya Pajajaran.

Train

Express trains (15,000Rp, one hour) connect Bogor with the capital roughly every hour, though try to avoid travelling during rush hour. Economy trains are more frequent, but they are packed with people – some clinging to the roof.

8Getting Around

Green angkot minibuses (3000Rp) shuttle around town, particularly between the bus terminal and train station. Angkot 03 does a counterclockwise loop of the botanical gardens on its way to Jl Kapten Muslihat, near the train station. Angkot 06 gets you to the bus terminal from the train station.

WORTH A TRIP

LIVE WITH LOCALS IN CIANJUR

Author Yudhi Suryana (who for years lived in New Zealand) is building the tourism industry in Cianjur, a famed market town. Through his wonderful homestay (%0813 2172 9004; www.cianjuradventure.com; 200,000-250,000Rp all-inclusive), and through his rare agenda of treks and driving tours, his goal is to offer independent travellers a slice of authentic Sundanese life. All guests at his homestay are offered a free tour to Cangling, a floating village on a nearby lake with a fish-farming economy, and to a local school in town.

Also recommended is the Traditional Village Tour (175,000Rp per person). The 90-minute hike goes past elegantly terraced rice fields and stands of clove, cardamom and guava trees. It includes a delicious homestyle lunch.

Yudhi arranges airport pick-ups and drop-offs, as well as bus and train tickets to or from Jakarta, Bandung or Yogyakarta. Buses leave Jakarta’s Kampung Rambutan every 30 minutes to Cianjur (35,000Rp, 2½ hours).

Bandung

A city of punks and prayer, serious religion and serious coffee, almost everything great and terrible about Indonesia can be found in Bandung. Here are teeming markets and good shopping, thriving cafes in reclaimed Dutch relics, palpable warmth and camaraderie on street corners…and mind-numbing, air-trashing traffic almost everywhere you look.

Bandung has three distinct districts of interest to visitors. The Jl Braga area offers a strip of cafes and restaurants and is surrounded by markets and museums. The Jl Cihampelas district, or so-called Jeans Street area, offers discount retail and plenty of nibbles and hotels too, but the leafier, northern part of town is the most upmarket, with the city's newest and trendiest restaurants dotting Jl Tirtayasa and Jl Trunojoyo.

The main drag, Jl Asia Afrika, runs through the heart of the city centre, past the alun-alun (main public square). Two places to consider for sleeping: Chez Bon ( GOOGLE MAP ; %022-426 0600; www.chez-bon.con; Jl Braga 45; per person 150,000Rp; aW) is a newish and well-run hostel, while Hotel Kenangan ( GOOGLE MAP ; %022-421 3244; www.kenanganhotel.com; Jl Kebon Sirih 4; r incl breakfast with fan/air-con from 265,000/395,000Rp; aW) is breezy, comfy and popular with travellers.

Five kilometres south of the city centre, Leuwi Panjang bus terminal (Jl Sukarno Hatta) has buses heading west to places such as Bogor (50,000/60,000Rp, 3½ hours) and to Jakarta’s Kampung Rambutan bus terminal (37,000Rp to 47,000Rp, three hours).

Pangandaran

%0265 / Population 52,163

Situated on a narrow isthmus, with a broad sweep of sand to either side and a thickly forested national park on the nearby headland, Pangandaran is West Java’s premier beach resort. Most of the year it's quiet, but the town fills up on holidays (and weekends). Swimming is dodgy, with heavy dumping surf and strong currents, but it’s not a bad place to get out on a board, or to learn how, on small swells. When the waves are maxed out (which is often), head an hour up the coast to sheltered Batu Karas.

Pangandaran

1Sights

1Pangandaran National ParkB4

2Activities, Courses & Tours

2Pangandaran SurfA2

4Sleeping

3Adam's HomestayA2

4Mini Tiga HomestayA2

5Rinjani HomestayA2

5Eating

6Pasar IkanB3

7Rumah Makan ChristiB3

1Sights & Activities

Pangandaran National ParkNATIONAL PARK

(Taman Nasional Pangandaran; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; admission 210,000Rp; h7am-5pm)

The Pangandaran National Park, which takes up the entire southern end of Pangandaran, is a wild expanse of dense forest. Within its boundaries live porcupines, kijang (barking deer), hornbills, monitor lizards and monkeys (including Javan gibbons). Small bays within the park enclose pretty tree-fringed beaches. The park is divided into two sections: the recreation park and the jungle.

Due to environmental degradation, the jungle is usually off limits. Well-maintained paths allow the recreation park to be explored, passing small caves (including Gua Jerang, which was used by the Japanese in the war), the remains of a Hindu temple, Batu Kalde, and a nice beach on the eastern side. English-speaking guides hang around both entrances and charge around 100,000Rp (per group of four) for a two-hour walk or up to 200,000Rp for a five-hour trip.

Pangandaran’s best swimming beach, white-sand Pasir Putih, lies on the western side of the national park. It's a thin stretch of soft sand fronted by a reef that's pretty well thrashed though plenty of fish still live, eat and love there. You can swim over here from the southern end of the main resort beach if the surf is not too rough, but take care of rip currents and that steady stream of boats that shuttle people back and forth (50,000Rp return). They will not be looking for you. The beach stretches to a point that gets a break when the swell is big. On calm days, the swim out to the point is peaceful and devoid of boat traffic. If you hop a boat from the main Pangandaran beach you won't have to pay the steep national park entry fee.

At sunset, huge fruit bats emerge from the forest. They fly down the length of Pangandaran’s beach but have to evade local boys who patrol with barbed-wire kites. Few are trapped this way, but every now and then a bat’s wing will get caught on a kite string and the creature will be brought crashing to the ground in a fit of squeals, before being dispatched to the cooking pot.

Surfing LessonsSURFING

(half-day lesson incl board hire 200,000-250,000Rp)

Surfing lessons are offered at the northern end of the beach. Pangandaran is a good place to learn, and local instructors have ‘soft’ boards ideal for beginners. The friendly staff from Pangandaran Surf ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.pangandaransurf.com; beachside, Steak House) are all lifesavers, speak English and understand local conditions. Board hire runs about 70,000Rp per day.

TTours

Local boatmen offer tours to Paradise Island, an uninhabited nearby island with good beaches (including a 5km white-sand beach) and waves. Factor on around 400,000Rp per person (minimum six people). Before you leave, make an early-morning visit to Pangandaran’s pasar ikan and fire up a fish barbecue when you get to the island for lunch.

Mas RudinADVENTURE

(%0813 8005 6724; pangandaran-guide.com)

Mas Rudin is a tremendous local guide who operates out of MM Books and offers fair prices on a range of tours. His website is a wealth of information.

4Sleeping

Many places have flexible prices that are dependent on demand, so you might get a good deal on weekdays outside the main holiday periods. The main area for budget or independent travellers is off the northern section of the main beach, where guesthouses are dotted along a grid of quiet lanes just inland from the beach.

Rinjani HomestayGUESTHOUSE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0265-639757; r with fan/air-con 140,000/180,000Rp; aW)

A welcoming family-run place with 10 pleasant, tiled rooms with wood furnishings and private porches. Sweet, quiet and a good value. Holiday periods see price increases of up to 100,000Rp.

Mini Tiga HomestayGUESTHOUSE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0265-639436; www.minitigahomestay.weebly.com; s/d/tr incl breakfast 100,000/150,000/250,000Rp; iW)

Great brick and wood chalets with reasonable rates. The nine rooms are clean, spacious and have nice decorative touches – including bamboo walls and batik wall hangings. All have en-suite bathrooms and Western toilets. Good tours and transport tickets are also offered, including a popular tour of the nearby Green Canyon (250,000Rp).

oAdam’s HomestayHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0265-639396; www.adamshomestay.com; Jl Pamugaran; r 250,000-550,000Rp; aWs)

Panangdaran's only real gem is a wonderfully relaxed, enjoyable place to stay with artistically presented rooms (many with balconies, beamed ceilings and outdoor bathrooms) spread around a verdant tropical garden bursting with exotic plants, lotus ponds and bird life. There's good international and local food available too.

5Eating

Pangandaran is famous for its excellent seafood. The best place by far for sampling it is the pasar ikan (fish market).

Rumah Makan ChristiINDONESIAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Pamugaran; meals 15,000-40,000Rp; h7am-11pm)

This clean, orderly rumah makan (restaurant), with a large interior and bench seating outside, is a good bet for local food. They fry, grill and stew tofu, chicken, and fish and offer a range of vegetarian dishes too. All authentic Javanese. Pick and mix to your pleasure, then sit at the common table and dine with your new friends.

oPasar IkanSEAFOOD$$

(Fish Market; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Raya Timor; large fish 40,000-70,000Rp; h11am-10pm)

Pangandaran’s terrific fish market consists of more than a dozen large, open-sided restaurants just off the east beach. Karya Bahari is considered the best – which is why it's so crowded – but all operate on exactly the same basis.

8Information

A 3500Rp admission charge is levied at the gates on entering Pangandaran.

8Getting There & Away

Set roughly halfway between Bandung and Yogyakarta, Pangandaran can be a frustratingly slow and complicated place to get to.

Bus

Many patas buses to Jakarta and Bandung leave from the Sari Bakti Utama depot, just north of town, and Budiman bus depot, about 2km west of Pangandaran along Jl Merdeka. Other services also leave from the main bus terminal.

Buses run to Bandung roughly every hour (40,000Rp to 63,000Rp, six hours) and to Jakarta’s Kampung Rambutan terminal (85,000Rp to 90,000Rp, eight to nine hours).

Train

The nearest train station, Sidareja, is 41km away. Speak to Mas Rudin about organizing train tickets. From Sidareja there are two daily trains (3½ to four hours) to Yogyakarta. Agents in Pangandaran organise combined minibus to Sidareja station and economy/business/exclusive class train tickets for 140,000/230,000/350,000Rp.

Batu Karas

%0265 / Pop 3000

The idyllic fishing village and surfing hot spot of Batu Karas, 32km west of Pangandaran, is one of the most enjoyable places to kick back in West Java. It’s as pretty as a picture – a tiny one-lane fishing settlement, with two beaches separated by a wooded promontory.

The main surfing beach is the smaller one: it's a sweet bay tucked between two rocky headlands. The other is a long, arcing black-sand number parked with pontoon fishing boats that shove off each night looking for fresh catch in the tides. There's good swimming, with sheltered sections calm enough for a dip, but many visitors are here for the breaks, and there’s a lot of surf talk.

2Activities

This is one of the best places in Java to learn to surf. The Point (offshore from Java Cove) is perfect for beginners, with paddle-in access from the beach and slow, peeling waves over a sandy bottom.

The locally run surf co-op, just off the beach, charges 200,000Rp for a two-hour lesson (including board hire). Longboards and shortboards (from 70,000Rp per day) are available from locals or the co-op.

4Sleeping & Eating

Nayla HomestayHOMESTAY$

(%0852 1755 3017; d 150,000Rp)

No wi-fi and no frills, just two small concrete rooms, clean and simple, on the main road and steps from the beach.

Wooden HouseGUESTHOUSE$

(%0813 6919 4405; woodenhouse@yahoo.com; r 200,000Rp)

Going for the log cabin look, these three lovely rooms with high ceilings are kept tidy and access a shared balcony with sea views. Downstairs there's a good warung for local food, jaffles, salads and pancakes.

BK HomestayHOMESTAY$

(%0822 6023 7802; r 200,000Rp incl breakfast; pW)

Four terrific value, fan-cooled rooms, all with floor-to-ceiling glass on one side, high ceilings, wood floors and wi-fi in the restaurant below. No hot water, but that won't matter much here. It's set off the main beach parking lot, right in the centre of things.

Pondok CowetGUESTHOUSE$$

(%0815 7316 2286; www.facebook.com/pondokcowet; r 450,000-600,000Rp; aW)

Tucked down a dirt road 50m from the main fishing beach, this new addition offers cool brick-house bunkers and rather creative modern rooms with a mosaic of floor-to-ceiling glass, exposed brick walls, pebbled bathroom floors and cow-print blankets.

8Getting There & Away

You have to pay a toll of 3000Rp to enter the village. There's no public transport to Batu Karas but it can be reached from Pangandaran by taking a bus to Cijulang (10,000Rp), then an ojek (30,000Rp). Or else you can hire a motorcycle in Panangdaran (per day 50,000Rp) and drive yourself.

Around Batu Karas

About 6km inland from Batu Karas, pleasure boats run upriver to Green Canyon (Cujang Taneuh; per boat 150,000Rp; h7.30am-4pm Sat-Thu, 1-4pm Fri), a lush river valley where you can swim in surging emerald currents and take a natural power shower under the streams that tumble into the gorge (don’t look up!). Day trips can be organised from Pangandaran for 300,000Rp, but it’s easy enough to get here on a hired motorcycle, as the route to the canyon is very well signposted.

Wonosobo

%0286 / Pop 113,000

Wonosobo, a typical country town with a busy market, is the main gateway to the Dieng Plateau. Its location 900m above sea level in the central mountain range gives it a comfortable climate.

Wisma Duta Homestay (%0286-321674; dutahomestay@yahoo.com; Jl Rumah Sakit III; r incl breakfast 300,000Rp; paW) has been hosting travellers for years. The attractive rooms have exposed stonework and are decorated with antiques – in fact, the entire house is decorated with the owner's marvellous collection. Book ahead.

Shanti Rahayu (Jl A Yani 122; meals 12,000-25,000Rp; h7am-9pm) is considered by locals to be among the best cheap eateries in the town centre; its chicken curry is great. Dieng (%0286-321266; Jl Sindoro 12; meals 25,000-40,000Rp; h10am-8pm) is a well-presented pick-and-mix restaurant set in an old Dutch colonial.

Wonosobo’s bus terminal is 4km out of town on the Magelang road.

From Yogyakarta take a bus to Magelang (25,000Rp, 1½ hours) and then another to Wonosobo (10,000Rp, 2½ hours). Regular buses also connect Borobudur and Magelang (10,000Rp, 40 minutes) until about 4pm. Rahayu Travel (%0286-321217; Jl A Yani 95) has door-to-door minibuses to Yogyakarta (55,000Rp, 3½ hours).

Frequent buses to Dieng (12,000Rp, one hour) leave throughout the day from Jl Rumah Sakit.

Dieng Plateau

%0286 / Elev 2000m

A startling contrast from the heat and fecundity of the lowlands, the plateau of Dieng (Abode of Gods) is another world: a windswept volcanic landscape of swirling clouds, green hills, mist and damp punctuated with ancient ruins.

You can see all the main sights, including dozens of ancient Hindu temples, on foot in a morning or afternoon, though to really explore the plateau and its crater lakes, allow a couple of days.

1Sights & Activities

The plateau’s natural attractions and remote allure are as much a reason to visit as the temples. From the village you can do a two-hour loop walk that takes in the turquoise lake of Telaga Warna (admission weekdays/weekends 100,000/150,000Rp; h8am-4.30pm) and the steaming vents and frantically bubbling mud pools of the Kawah Sikidang (admission incl in ticket for Arjuna temples) volcanic crater.

The walk to Sembungan village (2300m) to see the sunrise is heavily touted by the guesthouses, though having to pay to get up at 4.30am is a dubious privilege (particularly on cloudy mornings).

Arjuna ComplexHINDU TEMPLE

(admission incl Candi Gatutkaca & Kawah Sikidang 25,000Rp)

The five main temples that form the Arjuna Complex are clustered together on the central plain. They are Shiva temples, but like the other Dieng temples they have been named after the heroes of the wayang stories of the Mahabharata epic: Arjuna, Puntadewa, Srikandi, Sembadra and Semar. All have mouth-shaped doorways and strange bell-shaped windows and some locals leave offerings, burn incense and meditate here.

4Sleeping & Eating

Dieng’s dozen or more guesthouses are notoriously poor value. Spartan conditions, semi-clean rooms and cool or lukewarm water are the norm. The village is tiny and most accommodation is on the main road.

Bu DjonoGUESTHOUSE$

(%0286-642046, 0852 2664 5669; Jl Raya Dieng, Km26; r without bathroom 100,000Rp; W)

This simple, friendly place has been hosting backpackers for years and has a certain ramshackle charm with basic, clean, economy rooms. The pleasant, orderly restaurant downstairs (mains 15,000-25,000Rp) has tablecloths and lace curtains. Good tours to Gunung Paru are offered. It's close to the turn-off for Wonosobo.

Hotel Gunung MasHOTEL$

(%0286-334 2017; Jl Raya Dieng 42; d 180,000-275,000Rp)

This solidly built hotel has a wide choice of reasonably clean rooms, with good light. Upstairs rooms have a little deck and keyhole views to the farmland. It's almost opposite the access road to the Arjuna Complex.

Homestay FlamboyanHOMESTAY$

(%0813 2760 5040, 0852 2744 3029; www.flamboyandieng.com; Jl Raya Dieng; r 200,000Rp; W)

One of three homestays on this corner, and all are decent value. The carpets may be stained, but the cubist paint jobs are creative. All rooms have private baths, high ceilings and good vibes.

8Getting There & Away

Dieng is 26km from Wonosobo, which is the usual access point. Buses run frequently (12,000Rp, one hour).