Malaysian Borneo – Sarawak

Sarawak makes access to Borneo’s natural wonders and cultural riches a breeze. From Kuching, the island’s most sophisticated city, pristine rainforests – where you can spot orangutans, proboscis monkeys and the world’s largest flower, the rafflesia – can be visited on day trips, with plenty of time in the evening for a delicious meal and a drink in a chic bar. More adventurous travellers can take a ‘flying coffin’ riverboat up the Batang Rejang, ‘the Amazon of Borneo’, on your way to visit the spectacular caves and extraordinary rock formations of Gunung Mulu National Park, a Unesco World Heritage Site. Everywhere you go, you’ll encounter the warmth, unforced friendliness and sense of humour that make the people of Sarawak such delightful hosts.

Kuching

%082 / Pop 600,000

The capital of Sarawak brings together a kaleidoscope of cultures, cuisines and crafts. The bustling streets – some very modern, others with a colonial-era vibe – amply reward visitors with a penchant for aimless ambling. Chinese temples decorated with dragons abut shophouses from the time of the white rajahs, a South Indian mosque is a five-minute walk from stalls selling a range of Asian cuisines, and a landscaped riverfront park attracts families out for a stroll and a quick bite.

Kuching

1Top Sights

1Ethnology MuseumB3

1Sights

2Chinese History MuseumD2

3Fort MargheritaD1

4Indian MosqueB1

2Activities, Courses & Tours

5Adventure Alternative BorneoD4

4Sleeping

6Batik Boutique HotelF3

7Lime Tree HotelG3

8Lodge 121D4

9Nomad B&BD3

10RadiomanD2

11Singgahsana LodgeD2

12Threehouse B&BC2

5Eating

13Aroma CaféD4

14Bla Bla BlaD3

15Choon HuiF4

16Open-Air MarketA2

17Ting & TingD3

18Top Spot Food CourtE3

19Tribal StoveE2

20Yang Choon Tai Hawker CentreC2

21Zhun San Yen Vegetarian Food CentreG2

6Drinking & Nightlife

22Black Bean Coffee & Tea CompanyD2

23Monkee BarF4

24RuaiD4

7Shopping

25Juliana Native HandworkB2

26Main BazaarD2

1Sights

Leave plenty of time to wander aimlessly and soak up the relaxed vibe of areas such as Jln Carpenter (Old Chinatown), Jln India, Jln Padungan (New Chinatown) and the Waterfront Promenade.

oEthnology MuseumMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.museum.sarawak.gov.my; Jln Tun Abang Haji Openg; h9am-4.45pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat, Sun & holidays)F

At the top of the hill, on the eastern side of Jln Tun Abang Haji Openg, the Ethnology Museum (the Old Building) – guarded by two colonial-era cannons – spotlights Borneo’s incredibly rich indigenous cultures. Upstairs the superb exhibits include a full-sized Iban longhouse, masks and spears; downstairs is an old-fashioned natural-history museum.

At research time, there were plans to renovate the more than 100-year-old building, starting early 2016. During the renovations sections of the museum may be closed.

Chinese History MuseumMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Main Bazaar & Jln Wayang; h9am-4.45pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat, Sun & holidays)F

Housed in the century-old Chinese Court building, the Chinese History Museum provides an excellent introduction to the nine Chinese communities – each with its own dialect, cuisine and temples – who began settling in Sarawak around 1830. Highlights of the evocative exhibits include ceramics, musical instruments, historic photographs and some fearsome dragon- and lion-dance costumes. The entrance is on the river side of the building.

Indian MosqueMOSQUE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Indian Mosque Lane; h6am-8.30pm except during prayers)F

Turn off Jln India (between Nos 37 and 39A) or waterfront Jln Gambier (between Nos 24 and 25A – shops selling spices with a heady aroma) onto tiny Indian Mosque Lane (Lg Sempit) and you enter another world. About halfway up, entirely surrounded by houses and shops, stands Kuching’s oldest mosque, a modest structure built of belian (ironwood) in 1863 by Muslim traders from Tamil Nadu.

Fort MargheritaFORT

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Kampung Boyan; h9am-4.30pm)

Built by Charles Brooke in 1879 and named after his wife, Ranee Margaret, this hilltop fortress long protected Kuching against surprise attack by pirates. It did so exclusively as a remarkably successful deterrent: troops stationed here never fired a shot in anger. To get there from Kampung Boyan, follow the signs up the hill for 500m.

TTours

Lots of Kuching-based tour companies offer trips to places you can't easily visit on your own. Guesthouses are a good source of recommendations for itineraries and operators.

Adventure Alternative BorneoADVENTURE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %082-248000, 019-892 9627; www.aaborneo.com; Lot 37 Jln Tabuan)S

Offers ethical and sustainable trips that combine ‘culture, nature and adventure'. Can help you design and coordinate an itinerary for independent travel to remote areas, including the Penan villages of the Upper Baram.

4Sleeping

Most guesthouse rooms have shared bathrooms; prices almost always include a toast-and-jam breakfast. Rates at some places rise in July during the Rainforest World Music Festival.

oThreehouse B&BGUESTHOUSE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %082-423499; www.threehousebnb.com; 51 Jln China; incl breakfast dm RM20, d without bathroom RM60-65; W)

A spotless, family-friendly guesthouse in a great Old Chinatown location that is warm and welcoming – everything a guesthouse should be. All nine rooms are spaced over three, creaky wooden floors and share a bright-red colour scheme. Amenities include a common room with TV, DVDs and books, a laundry service and a kitchen.

oSinggahsana LodgeGUESTHOUSE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %082-429277; www.singgahsana.com; 1 Jln Temple; dm/d incl breakfast RM31/RM112–132; aiW)

Setting the Kuching standard for backpacker digs, this hugely popular guesthouse, decked out with stylish Sarawakian crafts, has an unbeatable location, a great chill-out lobby and a sociable rooftop bar. Dorms have 10 beds and lockers.

RadiomanHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %082 248816; 1 Jln Wayang; incl breakfast dm RM25, d without bathrooms RM70; aW)

This centrally located, self-styled 'heritage hostel' occupies a century-old shophouse that was once used for radio repairs. The building still has the original ceilings, floors and fiendishly steep stairs and it has been thoughtfully designed with nice touches like records on the walls, jungly plants and a courtyard garden.

Marco Polo GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %082-246679, Samuel Tan 019-888 8505; www.marcopolo.net.tf; 1st fl, 236 Jln Padungan; incl breakfast dm RM27, d without bathrooms RM56-60; aW)

A well-run, comfortable place with a breezy verandah and cosy indoor living room. The breakfast of fresh fruit, banana fritters and muffins is a popular bonus. Only some rooms have windows. Owner Sam is happy to give travel advice and sometimes takes guests to the market. Situated about 15 minutes' walk from the waterfront.

Nomad B&BGUESTHOUSE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %082-237831, 016 856 3855; www.borneobnb.com; 1st fl, 3 Jln Green Hill; incl breakfast dm RM20, with fan & without bathroom s/d RM50/60, d with air-con RM70-75; aiW)

There’s a buzzing backpacker vibe at this relaxed, Iban-run place – guests often hang out in the lounge area with the friendly management. Breakfast times are flexible to suit late risers and there is a kitchen that guests can use. Of the 17 rooms, 10 have windows (the others make do with exhaust fans). Dorm rooms have eight beds.

Lodge 121GUESTHOUSE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %082-428121; www.lodge121.com; Lot 121, 1st fl, Jln Tabuan; dm/s/d/tr without bathroom, incl breakfast RM30/59/79/99; aW)

Polished concrete abounds in this former commercial space that has been transformed into a sleek, low-key guesthouse. The carpeted, 10-bed dorm room, with mattresses on the floor, is in the attic. All rooms share bathrooms that are on the small side.

BedsGUESTHOUSE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %082-424229; www.bedsguesthouse.com; 229 Jln Padungan; dm RM20, s/d without bathroom RM40/55; aiW)

This guesthouse has attracted a loyal following thanks to comfy couches in the lobby, a kitchen you can cook in and 12 spotless rooms, nine with windows. Dorm rooms have six metal bunks of generous proportions. Located in New Chinatown, about 15 minutes' walk from the Main Bazaar.

oBatik Boutique HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %082-422845; www.batikboutiquehotel.com; 38 Jln Padungan; d incl breakfast RM280; aW)

A superb location, classy design and super-friendly staff make this a top midrange choice. The swirling batik design used on the hotel's facade is continued in the lobby and the 15 spacious rooms, each with a distinct colour theme. Some rooms have balconies overlooking the courtyard.

Lime Tree HotelHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %082-414600; www.limetreehotel.com.my; Lot 317, Jln Abell; d incl breakfast RM170-250; aiW)

Dashes of lime green – a pillow, a bar of soap, a staff member’s tie, the lobby’s Cafe Sublime – accent every room of this well-run semi-boutique hotel. The 55 rooms are sleek and minimalist and offer good value; promotional room rates are lower than those quoted here. The rooftop bar has river views and happy hour prices from 5pm to 8pm.

5Eating

Kuching is the best place in Malaysian Borneo to work your way through the entire range of Sarawak-style cooking. At hawker centres you can pick and choose from a variety of Chinese and Malay stalls, each specialising in a particular culinary tradition or dish.

oChoon HuiMALAYSIAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 34 Jln Ban Hock; laksa RM5-7; h7-11am Tue-Sun)

This old-school kopitiam (coffee shop) gets our vote for the most delicious laksa in town, and we're not alone – the place can get crowded, especially at weekends. There is also a stall here selling excellent popia, a kind of spring roll made with peanuts, radish and carrot (RM3).

Open-Air MarketHAWKER$

(Tower Market; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jln Khoo Hun Yeang; mains RM3-6.50; hmost stalls 6am-4pm, Chinese seafood 3pm-4am)

Cheap, tasty dishes to look for include laksa, Chinese-style mee sapi (beef noodle soup), red kolo mee (noodles with pork and a sweet barbecue sauce), tomato kueh tiaw (a fried rice-noodle dish) and shaved ice desserts (ask for ‘ABC’ at stall 17). The Chinese seafood stalls that open in the afternoon are on the side facing the river.

Aroma CaféDAYAK$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %082-417163; Jln Tabuan; mains RM10-16, buffet per plate RM5-6; h7am-10.30pm Mon-Sat, buffet 10am-2pm)

A great place to try local indigenous specialities such as ayam pansuh (chicken cooked in bamboo; RM10), fried tapioca leaves (RM6) and umai (a Sarawakian version of sushi; RM10). The lunchtime buffet is good value.

Yang Choon Tai Hawker CentreCHINESE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 23 Jln Carpenter; mains RM3.50-8; h4am-midnight)

Six food stalls, run by members of the Teochew Chinese community, serve up an eclectic assortment of native bites, including rice porridge with pork (3am to 9am), kolo mee (flash-boiled egg noodles; available from 6am to 2pm), super fish soup (3pm to 10pm) and – the most popular stall – pork satay (from 2pm).

Zhun San Yen Vegetarian Food CentreVEGETARIAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Lot 165, Jln Chan Chin Ann; mains RM4.30-5.50; h8am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm Sat; v)

A meat-free buffet lunch of Chinese-style curries, priced by weight, is served from 11am to 2pm (RM1.90 per 100g). When the buffet is over, you can order from a menu of dishes such as ginger 'chicken' (made with a soy-based meat substitute).

oDyakDAYAK$$

(%082-234068; Jln Mendu & Jln Simpang Tiga; mains RM25-35; hnoon-11pm, last order 8.30pm; v)

This elegant restaurant is the first to treat Dayak home cooking as true cuisine. The chef, classically trained in a Western style, uses traditional recipes, many of them Iban (a few are Kelabit, Kayan or Bidayuh), and fresh, organic jungle produce to create mouth-watering dishes unlike anything you’ve ever tasted. Situated 2km southeast of Old Chinatown.

Tribal StoveDAYAK$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %082-234873; 10 Jln Borneo; mains RM15-20; h11.30am-10.30pm Mon-Sat; Wv)

This laid-back restaurant serving delicious Kelabit food has somehow managed to capture something of the atmosphere of Bario, the Highland 'capital', and transport it to downtown Kuching. Specialities include labo senutuq (shredded beef cooked with wild ginger and dried chilli), ab’eng (shredded river fish) and pineapple curry. Popular dishes sometimes sell-out by early evening. Food is prepared without MSG.

Top Spot Food CourtSEAFOOD$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jln Padungan; fish per kg RM30-70, vegetable dishes RM8-12; hnoon-11pm)

A perennial favourite among local foodies, this neon-lit courtyard and its half-a-dozen humming seafooderies sits, rather improbably, on the roof of a concrete parking garage – look for the giant backlit lobster sign. Grilled white pomfret is a particular delicacy. Ling Loong Seafood and the Bukit Mata Seafood Centre are especially good.

LAKSA LUCK

Borneo’s luckiest visitors start the day with a breakfast of Sarawak laksa, noodle soup made with coconut milk, lemon grass, sour tamarind and fiery sambal belacan (shrimp paste sauce), with fresh calamansi lime juice squeezed on top.

Self-Catering

Ting & TingSUPERMARKET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 30A Jln Tabuan; h9am-9pm, closed Sun & holidays)

A good selection of wine, snack food, chocolate, toiletries and nappies.

SPLURGE

Innovative and stylish, Bla Bla Bla ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %082-233944; 27 Jln Tabuan; mains RM22-90; h6-11.30pm, closed Tue) serves excellent Chinese-inspired fusion dishes that – like the decor, the koi ponds and the Balinese Buddha – range from traditional to far-out. Specialities include midin (jungle fern) salad, mango duck (delicious), ostrich and deer, and pandan chicken. The generous portions are designed to be shared.

6Drinking & Nightlife

RuaiBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 7F Jln Ban Hock; h6pm-2.30am)

This Iban-owned bar has a laid-back, welcoming spirit all its own. Decorated with old photos and Orang Ulu art (and, inexplicably, several Mexican sombreros), it serves as an urban ruai (the covered verandah of an Iban longhouse) for aficionados of caving, hiking and running. Has a good selection of tuak (local rice wine). Starts to pick up after about 9pm.

Monkee BarBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.monkeebars.com; Jln Song Thian Cheok; beer RM6.50-12, spirit & mixer RM13; h3pm-2am)

At Monkee Bar, 50% of profits go to the Orangutan Project, a wildlife conservation NGO that works at Matang Wildlife Centre. If the idea of 'drinking for conservation' doesn't entice you, the prices might; Monkee Bar has some of the cheapest drinks in town. It's a smoky joint with a young local crowd interspersed with volunteers enjoying downtime from cage-cleaning.

Black Bean Coffee & Tea CompanyCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jln Carpenter; drinks RM3-4.80; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat; W)

The aroma of freshly ground coffee assaults the senses at this tiny shop, believed by many to purvey Kuching’s finest brews. Specialities, roasted daily, include Arabica, Liberica and Robusta coffees grown in Java, Sumatra and, of course, Sarawak. Also serves oolong and green teas from Taiwan. Has just three tables. Decaf not available.

7Shopping

If it’s traditional arts and crafts you’re after, then you’ve come to the right place – Kuching is the best shopping spot in Malaysian Borneo for traditional hand-woven textiles and baskets, masks, drums, beaded headdresses and the like. Don’t be afraid to negotiate – there’s plenty to choose from, and the quality varies as much as the price.

Main BazaarARTS & CRAFTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Main Bazaar; hsome shops closed Sun)

The row of old shophouses facing the Waterfront Promenade is chock-full of handicrafts shops, some outfitted like art galleries, others with more of a ‘garage sale’ appeal, and yet others (especially along the Main Bazaar’s western section) stocking little more than kitschy-cute cat souvenirs.

Juliana Native HandworkARTS & CRAFTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %082-230144; ground fl, Sarawak Textile Museum, Jln Tun Abang Haji Openg; h9am-4.30pm)

As well as her own Bidayuh beadwork pieces – most of which have been displayed in an exhibition in Singapore – Juliana sells quality rattan mats made made by Penan artists (RM490) and pua kumba Iban woven cloths. The intricate, 50cm-long beaded table runners she sells (RM680) take her three months to complete.

8Information

Emergency

Police, Ambulance & FireEMERGENCY

(%999)

Medical Services

Klinik ChanMEDICAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %082-240307; 98 Main Bazaar; h8am-noon & 2-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat, Sun & holidays)

Conveniently central. A consultation for a minor ailment costs from RM35.

Normah Medical Specialist CentreMEDICAL

(%082-440055, emergency 082-311999; www.normah.com.my; 937 Jln Tun Abdul Rahman, Petra Jaya; hemergency 24hr, clinics 8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat)

Widely considered to be Kuching’s best private hospital. Has a 24-hour ambulance. Situated north of the river, about 6km by road from the centre. Served by the 1 bus from Saujana Bus Station, departures on the hour from 7am to 5pm.

Sarawak General HospitalMEDICAL

(Hospital Umum Sarawak; %082-276666; http://hus.moh.gov.my/v3; Jln Hospital; h24hr)

Kuching’s large public hospital has modern facilities and remarkably reasonable rates but is often overcrowded. Situated about 2km south of the centre along Jln Tun Abang Haji Openg. To get there, take bus K6, K8 or K18.

Money

Many of Kuching’s banks and ATMs are clustered around the Cat Fountain on Jln Tunku Abdul Rahman.

Mohamed Yahia & SonsBANK

( GOOGLE MAP ; basement, Sarawak Plaza, Jln Tunku Abdul Rahman; h10am-9pm)

No commission, good rates and accepts over 30 currencies (including US$100 bills), as well as traveller's cheques in US dollars, euros, Australian dollars and pounds sterling. Situated inside the bookshop.

Tourist Information

National Park Booking OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %082-248088; www.sarawakforestry.com; Jln Tun Abang Haji Openg, Sarawak Tourism Complex; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, closed public holidays)

Sells brochures on each of Sarawak’s national parks and can supply the latest newsflash on Rafflesia sightings. Telephone enquiries are not only welcomed but patiently answered. Bookings for accommodation at Bako, Gunung Gading and Kubah National Parks and the Matang Wildlife Centre can be made in person, by phone or via http://ebooking.com.my.

Visitors Information CentreTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %082-410942, 082-410944; www.sarawaktourism.com; UTC Sarawak, Jln Padungan; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, closed public holidays)

Usually located in the atmospheric old courthouse complex, at research time the Visitors Information Centre was about to move to a temporary new home in the UTC building on Jln Padungan while the Old Court House buildings were redeveloped.

The office has helpful and well-informed staff, lots of brochures and oodles of practical information (eg bus schedules).

Visa Extensions

Visa DepartmentVISA DEPARTMENT

(Bahagian Visa; %082-245661; www.imi.gov.my; 2nd fl, Bangunan Sultan Iskandar, Kompleks Pejabat Persekutuan, cnr Jln Tun Razak & Jln Simpang Tiga; h8am-5pm Mon-Thu, 8-11.45am & 2.15-5pm Fri)

Situated in a 17-storey federal office building about 3km south of the centre (along Jln Tabuan). Served by City Public Link buses K8 or K11, which run every half-hour or so. A taxi from the centre costs RM15.

8Getting There & Away

Air

Kuching is linked by budget carrier AirAsia with Kuala Lumpur, Johor Bahru, Penang and Singapore; and, within Borneo, Bintulu, Sibu, Miri and Kota Kinabalu. Malaysia Airlines has direct flights to Singapore, Kota Kinabalu and Kuala Lumpur. MASwings flies to Bandar Seri Begawan, Pontianak and 22 destinations in Sarawak and Sabah.

Boat

Ekspress Bahagia (%016-800 5891, 016-889 3013, in Kuching 082-412 246, in Sibu 084-319228) runs a daily express ferry from Kuching’s Express Wharf, 6km east of the centre, to Sibu (RM45, five hours, daily at 8.30am). A taxi from town to the wharf costs RM35.

Bus

Buses for many destinations can be booked online via www.busonlineticket.com. Kuching has two bus stations:

Kuching SentralBUS STATION

(cnr Jln Penrissen & Jln Airport)

Saujana Bus StationBUS STATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; Jln Masjid & Jln P Ramlee)

BUSES FROM KUCHING

Destination	Station	Fare (RM)	Duration (hr)	Frequency
Batu Niah Junction, for Niah National Park	Kuching Sentral	80	12-14	hourly
Bintulu	Kuching Sentral	70	11-13	hourly
Kubah National Park	Saujana	4	1	4 per day
Lambir Hills National Park	Kuching Sentral	80	13-15	hourly
Lundu, for Gunung Gading National Park	Kuching Sentral	12	2-3	4 per day
Miri	Kuching Sentral	80	13-15	hourly
Semenggoh Wildlife Centre	Saujana	3	1	6 per day
Sibu	Kuching Sentral	50	7-8	hourly

GETTING TO INDONESIA: KUCHING TO PONTIANAK

Getting to the border A variety of bus companies ply the route between Kuching’s Kuching Sentral bus terminal (and other cities along the Sarawak coast) and the West Kalimantan city of Pontianak (economy/1st class RM60/80, nine hours), crossing to the Tebedu/Entikong border.

At the border Travellers from 64 countries can get a one-month Indonesian 'visa on arrival' at the road crossing between Tebedu (Malaysia) and Entikong (Indonesia), 80km south of Kuching, the only official land border between Sarawak and Kalimantan.

Moving on Pontianak is linked to other parts of Indonesia and to Singapore by air. For information on making this crossing in the opposite direction, see here.

8Getting Around

To/From the Airport

Kuching International Airport is 12km south of the centre. The price of a red-and-yellow taxi into Kuching is fixed at RM30. Coupons are sold inside the terminal.

Boat

Bow-steered wooden boats known as tambang, powered by an outboard motor, shuttle passengers back and forth across Sungai Sarawak, linking jetties along the Waterfront Promenade with Kampung Boyan and the Astana. Crossing the river costs RM1.

Motorcycle

An Hui MotorMOTORCYCLE HIRE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %016-886 3328, 082-240508; 29 Jln Tabuan; h8am-6pm Mon-Sat, 8am-10.30am Sun)

A motorcycle repair shop that charges RM40 per day for a Vespa-like Suzuki RG (110cc) or RGV (120cc) and RM40 for a 125cc scooter (including helmet), plus a deposit of RM100. Insurance covers the bike but not the driver and may be valid only within an 80km radius of Kuching, so check before you head to Sematan, Lundu or Annah Rais.

Taxi

Kuching taxis are required to use meters; overcharging is rare. Fares are 50% higher from midnight to 6am. To order a cab, call Kuching City Radio Taxi (%082-348898, 082-480000).

Around Kuching

Western Sarawak offers a dazzling array of natural sights and indigenous cultures, most within day-trip distance of Kuching.

Bako National Park

Occupying a jagged peninsula jutting out into the South China Sea, Bako National Park ( GOOGLE MAP ; %Bako terminal 082-370434; www.sarawakforestry.com; RM20; hpark office 8am-5pm) is just 37km northeast of downtown Kuching but feels worlds away. It's one of the best places in Sarawak to see rainforest animals in their natural habitats.

The coast of the 27-sq-km peninsula has lovely pocket beaches tucked into secret bays interspersed with wind-sculpted cliffs, forested bluffs and stretches of brilliant mangrove swamp. The interior of the park is home to streams, waterfalls and a range of distinct ecosystems, including classic lowland rainforest (mixed dipterocarp forest) and kerangas (heath forest).

Bako provides protected habitat for incredible natural diversity. Scientists estimate that the park is home to about 200 kinds of bird, 24 reptile species and 37 species of mammal. The area around park headquarters is one of the best places to spot wildlife, including reddish-brown proboscis monkeys, the males’ pendulous noses flopping as they chew on tender young leaves.

1Sights & Activities

Bako’s hiking trails – colour-coded and clearly marked with stripes of paint – are suitable for all levels of fitness and motivation, with routes ranging from short nature strolls to strenuous all-day hikes. The ranger-led night walk (per person RM10; h8pm) gets great reviews.

At park headquarters it’s possible to hire a boat to one of the more distant beaches and then hike back, or to hike to one of the beaches and arrange for a boat to meet you there.

4Sleeping & Eating

In-park accommodation (110 beds) often fills up, especially from June to August, so if you’d like to stay over it's a good idea to book ahead online via http://ebooking.com.my, in person at the National Park Booking Office in Kuching, or by phoning the park.

Accommodation includes Forest Lodges Type 5 (%park booking office in Kuching 082-248088; ebooking.com.my; r RM100; a) and Type 6 (%park booking office in Kuching 082 248 088; ebooking.com.my; d RM50, 2-room cabin RM75), and the Forest Hostel (%park booking office in Kuching 082-248088; ebooking.com.my; dm RM15, q RM40). Space sometimes opens up at the last minute. Camping (per person RM5) is permitted.

Kerangas CaféCAFETERIA$

(Canteen; meals RM8–10; h7.30am-10.30pm)

The cafeteria, designed to be macaque-proof, serves a varied and tasty selection of fried rice, chicken, fish, cakes, fresh fruit and packaged snacks. Buffet meals are available from 11.30am to 2pm and 6.30pm to 8pm.

8Getting There & Away

Getting from Kuching to Bako National Park is a cinch. Bus 1 starts its run to Bako Bazaar (RM3.50, 50 minutes) at 5 Jln Khoo Hun Yeang, in Kuching, across the street from the food stalls of the Open-Air Market. Departures from Kuching are every hour on the hour from 7am to 5pm, and from Bako Bazaar every hour on the half-hour from 6.30am to (usually) 5.30pm. If you miss the last bus, ask around the village for a minibus or private car (RM55) to Kuching.

Boat transfers to Bako Park HQ from Bako Terminal (at Bako Bazaar) are managed by Koperasi Warisan Pelancongan Bako Berhad (Bako boat transfers; %011-2513 2711, 011-2509 5070; h7.30am-4pm), who has a counter at the terminal and at the park. The 20-minute journey to the park costs RM20 per person. From May to September transfers are usually every hour from 8am to 4pm (ask at the counter for the day’s schedule). The last boat back from Bako is at 4pm. From late November to February or March, the sea is often rough and scheduled boat trips may be less frequent.

Santubong Peninsula

The Santubong Peninsula (also known as Damai) is a 10km-long finger of land jutting out into the South China Sea. The main drawcards are the Sarawak Cultural Village, some of Malaysian Borneo's best beaches and Gunung Santubong (880m), which can be climbed from a point about 1km south of Damai Central.

1Sights & Activities

Access to Damai Central Beach, across the parking lot from the Sarawak Cultural Village, is free. For a small fee, nonguests can hang out on the sand and in the waves at Permai Rainforest Resort (%082-846490; www.permairainforest.com; Damai Beach; adult/child RM5/3; h7am-7pm).

Sarawak Cultural VillageMUSEUM

(SCV; %082-846411; www.scv.com.my; Damai Central; adult/child RM90/30; h9am-4.45pm)

This living museum is centred on seven traditional dwellings: three longhouses, a Penan hut, a Malay townhouse and a Chinese farmhouse. It may sound contrived but the SCV is held in high esteem by locals for its role in keeping their cultures and traditions alive.

Twice a day (at 11.30am and 4pm) a cultural show presents traditional music and dance. The lively Melanau entry involves whirling women and clacking bamboo poles, while the Orang Ulu dance includes balloons and a blowpipe hunter.

4Sleeping & Eating

Damai Central has several inexpensive eateries.

BB BunkersHOSTEL$

(%082-846835; www.bbbunkers.com; Damai Central; dm RM53; aW)

Situated a few metres from Damai Central Beach, this sleek hostel has the peninsula's only dorm beds. The industrial, hangar-like space is subdivided by curtains, creating cosy spaces for one to three beds, either twins or queens. Secure storage is available.

Village HouseGUESTHOUSE$$

(%082-846166, 016-860 9389; www.villagehouse.com.my; Lot 634, off Jalan Pantai Puteri, Kampung Santubong; dm/d incl breakfast RM102/278-552; as)

Tucked away in the quiet Malay village of Santubong, this place has an air of serenity and relaxation. Rooms with belian wood floors and four-poster beds are arranged around a gorgeous pool with frangipani trees at either end. A well-stocked bar and menu of local dishes (mains RM14 to RM60) means there is really no reason to leave.

8Getting There & Away

Damai ShuttleSHUTTLE

(%082-846999; 1-way adult/child RM12/6)

Has departures from Kuching’s Grand Margherita Hotel to Damai Beach and Sarawak Cultural Village six times a day between 9am and 6.15pm. The last run back to Kuching leaves the Sarawak Cultural Village at 5.15pm.

Semenggoh Nature Reserve

One of the best places in the world to see semi-wild orangutans in their natural habitat, the Semenggoh Wildlife Centre (%082-618325; www.sarawakforestry.com; Jln Puncak Borneo; adult RM10; h8-11am & 2-4pm, feeding 9am & 3pm) can be visited on a half-day trip from Kuching or combined with a visit to Annah Rais Longhouse. The shaggy creatures often swing by (literally) park HQ to dine on bananas, coconuts and eggs at daily feeding sessions. There’s no guarantee that any orangutans will show up, but even when there are plenty of fruits in the forest the chances are excellent. Sometimes they arrive a little late, so don’t rush off straightaway even if everything seems quiet.

8Getting There & Away

Two bus companies provide reliable public transport from Kuching’s Saujana Bus Station to the park gate, situated 1.3km down the hill from park headquarters (RM3, one hour):

City Public Link (%082-239178) Bus K6 departs from Kuching at 7.15am, 10.15am, 1pm and from Semenggoh at approximately 8.45pm, 11.15am, 2.15pm and 4.15pm. Buses have been known to leave before their scheduled departure time, so get there early.

Sarawak Transport Company (STC; %082-233579) Bus 6 has Kuching departures at 6.45am and 12.15pm; buses back pass by Semenggoh at about 10am and 3.45pm.

Tours to Semenggoh are organised by Kuching guesthouses and tour agencies. A taxi from Kuching costs RM60 to RM70 one way or RM120 return, including one hour of wait time.

Annah Rais Longhouse

Although this 97-door Bidayuh longhouse (adult/student RM8/4) has been on the tourist circuit for decades, it’s still an excellent place to get a sense of what a longhouse is and what longhouse life is like.

The 500 residents of Annah Rais are as keen as the rest of us to enjoy the comforts of modern life – they do love their mobile phones and 3G internet access – but they’ve made a conscious decision to preserve their traditional architecture and the social interactions it engenders. They’ve also decided that welcoming tourists is a good way to earn a living without moving to the city, something most young people end up doing.

Once you pay your entry fee (in a pavilion next to the parking lot), you’re free to explore Annah Rais’ three longhouses, with a guide or on your own. The most important feature is the awah, a long, covered common verandah – with a springy bamboo floor – used for economic activities, socialising and celebrations.

4Sleeping

Several families run homestays with shared bathrooms, either in one of the three longhouses or in an adjacent detached house. Standard rates, agreed upon by the community, are RM200 per person for accommodation and delicious Bidayuh board. It is also possible to arrange a package including activities such as hiking, rafting, fishing, (mock) blowgun hunting, soaking in a natural hot spring and a dance performance.

Akam GanjaHOMESTAY$$

(%010-984 3821; winniejagig@gmail.com; per person incl meals RM200)

Akam, a retired forestry official, and his wife Winnie, an English teacher, run a welcoming homestay at their comfortable detached house on the riverbank.

8Getting There & Away

Annah Rais, 60km south of Kuching, is not served by public transport. A taxi from Kuching costs RM70 one way.

In Kuching, a variety of guesthouses and tour agencies offer half-day tours to Annah Rais.

Kubah National Park & Matang Wildlife Centre

Mixed dipterocarp forest, among the lushest and most threatened habitats in Borneo, is front and centre at 22-sq-km Kubah National Park (%082-845033; www.sarawakforestry.com; admission incl Matang Wildlife Centre RM20; h8am-5pm), which makes an ideal day or overnight trip from Kuching.

When you pay your entry fee, you’ll receive a hand-coloured schematic map of the park’s interconnected trails. They’re well marked, so a guide isn’t necessary, and also offer a good degree of shade, making them ideal for the sun averse. And when you’re hot and sweaty from walking you can cool off under a crystal-clear waterfall.

A 3.8km trail (or 3½ hours' walk) leads from Kubah National Park to the Matang Wildlife Centre (%082-374869; www.sarawakforestry.com; admission incl Kubah National Park RM20; h8am-5pm, animal encloure trail 8.30am-3.30pm), which lies within the park boundaries. The centre has had remarkable success rehabilitating jungle animals rescued from captivity, especially orangutans and sun bears. The highly professional staff do their best to provide their abused charges with natural living conditions with limited funds, but there’s no denying that the centre looks like a low-budget zoo plopped down in the jungle. Because of the centre’s unique role, there are endangered animals here that you cannot see anywhere else in Sarawak.

4Sleeping & Eating

Accommodation, available at both Kubah and Matang, is of a better standard at Kubah, where attractive, inexpensive options include the forest hostel (%082-248088; ebooking.com.my; dm RM15) and forest lodges (%082-248088; ebooking.com.my; 6-bed cabin RM225; a). Cooking is allowed in the chalets, which have fully equipped kitchens, but there’s nowhere to buy food, so bring everything you’ll need.

8Getting There & Away

Kubah National Park is 25km northwest of Kuching. A taxi from Kuching costs RM60.

From Kuching’s Saujana Bus Station, bus K21 to 'Politeknik' stops on the main road 400m from park headquarters (RM3.50, one hour), next to the Kubah Family Park. Departures from Kuching are at 8am, 11am, 2pm and 5pm, and from the main road (opposite the turn-off for Kubah) at 6.30am, 9.30am, 12.30pm and 3.30pm (be there at 3pm, the bus sometimes leaves early).

Wind Cave & Fairy Cave

About 26km southwest of Kuching, the town of Bau is a good access point to two interesting cave systems. Situated 5km southwest of Bau, the Wind Cave (Gua Angin; %082-765472; adult/child RM5/2; h8.30am-4.30pm) is essentially a network of underground streams, while nearby Fairy Cave (Gua Pari Pari; adult/child RM5/2; h8.30am-4pm) – almost the size of a football pitch and as high as it is wide – is an extraordinary chamber whose entrance is 30m above the ground in the side of a cliff.

8Getting There & Away

The caves are difficult to reach by public transport. Bau is linked to Kuching’s Saujana Bus Station (RM5, 1½ hours) by bus 2. Bus 3A from Bau passes 1km from the Wind Cave and bus 3 from Bau passes 1.5km from the Fairy Cave.

A taxi from Kuching costs RM70 one way, or RM150 to RM200 return for a visit to both caves with three hours of wait time.

Gunung Gading National Park

The best place in Sarawak to see the world’s largest flower, the renowned rafflesia, 41-sq-km Gunung Gading National Park (%082-735144; www.sarawakforestry.com; adult RM20; h8am-5pm) makes a fine day trip from Kuching. Its old-growth rainforest covers the slopes of four mountains (gunung) – Gading, Lundu, Perigi and Sebuloh – traversed by well-marked walking trails that are great for day hikes.

To find out if a rafflesia is in bloom – something that happens here only about 25 times a year – and how long it will stay that way (never more than five days), call the park or the National Park Booking Office in Kuching.

4Sleeping & Eating

The park has a hostel (%Kuching booking office 082-248088, park HQ 082-735144; ebooking.com.my; Gunung Gading National Park HQ; dm/r without bathrooms RM15/40) with four fan rooms and two three-bedroom forest lodges (%Kuching booking office 082-248088, park HQ 082-735144; ebooking.com.my; Gunung Gading National Park HQ; per r/cabin RM100/150; a) that can sleep up to six people. Camping (%Kuching booking office 082-248088, park HQ 082-735144; www.sarawakforestry.com; Gunung Gading National Park HQ; per person RM5) is possible at park headquarters.

Cooking is permitted in park accommodation. There are restaurants, food stalls and a large market in the town of Lundu, a walkable 2.5km from the park.

8Getting There & Away

Gunung Gading National Park is 85km northwest of Kuching. Four public buses a day link Kuching Sentral long-distance bus station with Lundu, but from there you’ll either have to walk 2.5km to the park, or hire an unofficial taxi (about RM5 per person).

Sibu

%084 / Pop 255,000

Gateway to the Batang Rejang, Sibu has grown rich from trade with Sarawak’s interior since the time of James Brooke. These days, although the ‘swan city’ does not rival Kuching in terms of charm, it’s not a bad place to spend a day or two before or after a boat trip to the wild interior.

1Sights

Sibu Heritage CentreMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; Jln Central; h9am-5pm, closed Mon & public holidays)F

Housed in a gorgeously airy municipal complex built in 1960, this excellent museum explores the captivating history of Sarawak and Sibu. Panels, rich in evocative photographs, take a look at the various Chinese dialect groups and other ethnic groups, Sarawak’s communist insurgency (1965–90), Sibu’s Christian (including Methodist) traditions, and even local opposition to Sarawak’s incorporation into Malaysia in 1963.

Tua Pek Kong TempleTAOIST TEMPLE

( GOOGLE MAP ; Jln Temple; h6.30am-8pm)F

A modest wooden structure existed on the site of this colourful riverfront Taoist temple as far back as 1871; it was rebuilt in 1897 but badly damaged by Allied bombs in 1942.

For panoramic views over the town and the muddy Batang Rejang, climb the seven-storey Kuan Yin Pagoda, built in 1987; the best time is sunset, when a swirl of swiftlets buzzes around the tower at eye level. Ask for the key at the ground-floor desk.

4Sleeping

oLi Hua HotelHOTEL$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %084-324000; www.lihua.com.my; cnr Jln Maju & Jln Teo Chong Loh; s/d/ste RM50/65/150; aiW)

Sibu’s best-value hotel has 68 spotless, tile-floor rooms spread out over nine storeys and staff that are professional and friendly. It's especially convenient if you’re arriving or leaving by boat. Light sleepers should avoid the rooms above the karaoke bars on Jln Teo Chong Loh that blare out music late into the night.

River Park HotelHOTEL$

( GOOGLE MAP ; fax 084-316688; 51-53 Jln Maju; d RM55-75; aW)

A well-run, 30-room hotel in a convenient riverside location. The cheapest rooms don't have windows.

5Eating

Sibu is a great spot for street food, especially Foochow-style Chinese. Try the city’s signature dish, kam pua mee (thin round noodles soaked in pork fat and served with a side of roast pork).

oSibu Central MarketHAWKER$

(Pasar Sentral Sibu; GOOGLE MAP ; Jln Channel; mains RM3-5; hfood stalls 3am-midnight)

Malaysia’s largest fruit-and-veg market has more than 1000 stalls. Upstairs, Chinese, Malay and Iban-run food stalls serve up local specialities, including porridge (available early in the morning and at night), kampua mee and kompia. Most of the noodle stalls close around noon.

Night MarketMARKET, HAWKER$

(Pasar Malam; GOOGLE MAP ; Jln Market; h5-11pm or midnight)

Chinese stalls (selling pork and rice, steamed buns etc) are at the western end of the lot, while Malay stalls (with superb satay and barbecue chicken) are to the northeast. Also has a few Iban-run places.

oPayung CaféMALAYSIAN$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %016-890 6061; 20F Jln Lanang; mains RM8-19; h11am-3pm & 6-11pm Mon-Sun)

An exquisitely decorated cafe where diners feast on healthy local food (no re-used oil, deep frying or MSG) such as spicy otak-otak barbecued fish (RM13), deliciously fresh herbs salad (RM8) and generous servings of the volcano-like Mulu icecream.

8Information

Rejang Medical CentreMEDICAL

(%084-323333; www.rejang.com.my; 29 Jln Pedada; hemergency 24hr)

Has 24-hour emergency services, including an ambulance. Situated about 4km northeast of the city centre.

Visitors Information CentreTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %084-340980; www.sarawaktourism.com; Sublot 3a & 3b, Sibu Heritage Centre, Jln Central; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, closed public holidays)

Well worth a stop. Has friendly and informative staff (ask for Jessie), plenty of maps, bus and ferry schedules, and brochures on travel around Sarawak.

8Getting There & Around

Boat

Unless you fly, the quickest way to get from Sibu to Kuching is by boat. Ekspress Bahagia (%016-800 5891, in Kuching 082-429242, in Sibu 084-319228; hfrom Sibu 11.30am, from Kuching 8.30am) runs a daily express ferry from Sibu’s express ferry terminal (Terminal Penumpang Sibu; GOOGLE MAP ; Jln Kho Peng Long) to Kuching’s Express Wharf (RM55, five hours, departure at 11.30am).

‘Flying coffin’ express boats (named for their shape) run by half-a-dozen companies head up the Batang Rejang to Kapit (RM25 to RM35, 2½ to three hours, 140km) once or twice an hour from 5.45am to 2.30pm.

One boat a day, departing at 5.45am, goes all the way to Belaga (RM60, 11 hours, 295km) – unless water levels are too low to pass beyond Kapit.

For all ferries, be on board at least 15 minutes before departure.

Bus

Sibu’s long-distance bus station (Jln Pahlawan), which has departures almost 24 hours a day, is about 3.5km northeast of the centre (along Jln Pedada).

BUSES FROM SIBU

Destination	Fare (RM)	Duration (hr)	Frequency
Bintulu	30	3¼	roughly hourly 6am-3.30am
Kuching	50	7-8	7am-4am
Miri	50	6½	roughly hourly 6am-3.30am

8Getting Around

To get from the local bus station (in front of the Express Ferry Terminal) to the long-distance bus station, take Lanang Bus 21 (RM2, 15 minutes, once or twice an hour 6.30am to 5.15pm).

Batang Rejang

A trip up the tan, churning waters of the Batang Rejang (Rejang River) – the ‘Amazon of Borneo’ – is one of Southeast Asia’s great river journeys. Though the area is no longer the jungle-lined wilderness it was in the days before Malaysian independence, it still retains a frontier, ulu-ulu (upriver, back-of-the-beyond) vibe, especially in towns and longhouses accessible only by boat.

Kapit

%084 / Pop 19,500

The main upriver settlement on the Batang Rejang, Kapit is a bustling trading and transport centre dating back to the days of the white rajahs. Its lively markets, including Pasar Teresang ( GOOGLE MAP ; h5.30am-6pm), are important commercial hubs for nearby longhouse communities.

1Sights & Activities

Fort SylviaMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; Jln Kubu; h10am-noon & 2-5pm, closed Mon & public holidays)

Built by Charle Brooke in 1880 to take control of the Upper Rejang, this wooden fort – built of belian – was renamed in 1925 to honour Ranee Sylvia, wife of Charles Vyner Brooke.

The exhibits inside offer a pretty good introduction to the traditional lifestyles of the indigenous groups of the Batang Rejang and include evocative colonial-era photographs. Also on show is the peace jar presented during the historical 1924 peacemaking ceremony between previously warring Iban, Kayan and Kenyah groups.

UPRIVER TRAVEL PERMITS

An outdated permit system is in place for tourists travelling from Kapit to Belaga, or up the Batang Belah. Although the Resident’s Office (%084-796230; www.kapitro.sarawak.gov.my; 9th fl, Kompleks Kerajaan Negeri Bahagian Kapit, Jln Bleteh; h8am-1pm & 2-5pm Mon-Thu, 8-11.45am & 2.15-5pm Fri), linked to Pasar Teresang by minibus (RM2), continues to issue permits (which are free), we’ve never heard of any authority actually checking if travellers have them. A permit is not required for travel to Belaga from Bintulu.

4Sleeping & Eating

New Rejang InnHOTEL$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %084-796600, 084-796700; 104 Jln Teo Chow Beng; d RM78; aW)

A welcoming and well-run hotel whose 15 spotless, good-sized rooms come with comfortable mattresses, hot water, TV, phone and mini-fridge. The best-value accommodation in town.

Hiap Chiong HotelHOTEL$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %084-796314; 33 Jln Temenggong Jugah; d RM50; W)

The 15 rooms have outdated furniture but are clean and have tiny flat-screen TVs.

Night MarketMARKET$

( GOOGLE MAP ; Taman Selera Empurau; mains RM2.50-5; h5-11pm or midnight)

Delicious satay and barbecue chicken are the highlight of this night market, which has tables to eat at. Situated a block up the slope from Kapit Town Sq.

8Information

Kapit has several banks with ATMs.

8Getting There & Away

Express boats to Sibu (RM25 to RM35, 2½ to three hours, once or twice an hour) depart between 6.40am and 3.15pm from the Kapit Passenger Terminal ( GOOGLE MAP ; Jln Panglima Balang),

Water levels permitting, an express boat heads upriver to Belaga (RM55, 4½ hours) from the Kapit Town Square jetty, two blocks downriver from the Kapit Passenger Terminal, once a day at about 9.30am. Be onboard by 9.15am.

Belaga

%086 / Pop 2500

There’s not much to do in Belaga except soak up the frontier outpost vibe, but nearby rivers are home to quite a few Kayan, Kenyah and Penan longhouses.

TTours

The main reason travellers visit Belaga is to venture into the jungle in search of remote longhouses and hidden waterfalls. But you'll need to find a guide. Guesthouse owner Daniel Levoh (%086-461198, 013-848 6351; daniellevoh@hotmail.com; Jln Teh Ah Kiong) can help out – he offers day trips (RM85 per person, including lunch) and three-day, two-night longhouse visits (RM750 for a group of three).

4Sleeping

Daniel Levoh’s GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$

(%013-848 6351, 086-461198; daniellevoh@hotmail.com; Jln Teh Ah Kiong; dm RM20, d without bathroom RM40; W)

The four simple rooms are on the 2nd floor, opening off a large open verandah decorated with a traditional Kayan mural. Owner Daniel Levoh is happy to share stories of longhouse life. Situated two blocks behind Main Bazaar.

Belaga B&BHOTEL$

(%013-842 9760; freeland205@gmail.com; Main Bazaar; with fan dm/d RM25/15, with air-con d RM35; a)

Has seven basic rooms, some with air-con, and shared bathroom facilities. Don't let the name fool you: breakfast isn't included. Owned by Hasbee, a former longhouse guide who now runs the eponymous cafe downstairs. He is happy to help arrange longhouse visits.

8Information

Belaga's BSN bank branch has an unreliable ATM.

8Getting There & Away

If the water levels at the Pelagus Rapids (32km upriver from Kapit) are high enough, you can take an express boat to Kapit (RM55, 4½ hours) departing at about 7.30am. To find out if the boat is running, call tour guide Daniel Levoh. When the river is too low, the only way to get out of Belaga is by 4WD to Bintulu.

There are 4WDs that link Belaga's Main Bazaar with Bintulu (RM50 per person, four hours) pretty much daily, with departures at about 7.30am. If you're heading towards Miri, ask to be dropped off at Bakun Junction (Simpang Bakun), 53km northeast of Bintulu and 159km southwest of Miri, where you can flag down a passing bus.

Bintulu

%086 / Pop 190,000

Roughly midway between Sibu and Miri (about 200km from each), the gritty port of Bintulu owes its existence to vast offshore natural gas fields. There's no reason to stay overnight here unless you're heading overland to Belaga.

4Sleeping

Kintown InnHOTEL$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %086-333666; 93 Jln Keppel; s/d RM80/86.25; aW)

The carpeted rooms, though small and rather musty, are a reasonable option for those on a budget who aren't put off by a bit of peeling paint.

Riverfront InnHOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %086-333111; riverfrontinn@hotmail.com; 256 Taman Sri Dagang; s/d from RM81/104; aW)

A long-standing favourite with business and leisure visitors alike, the Riverfront is low-key but has a touch of class. Try to get a deluxe room (RM120) overlooking the river – the view is pure Borneo.

5Eating

Famous MamaMAMAK, HALAL$

( GOOGLE MAP ; 10 Jln Somerville; mains RM5-10; v)

Famous Mama does Mamak (halal Indian-Malay) cuisine and is a popular place for quick, cheap nasi kandar (rice served with side dishes of different curries) and roti canai.

Night MarketMALAYSIAN$

(Pasar Malam; GOOGLE MAP ; off Jln Abang Galau; mains RM2-5; h4-10pm)

A good place to pick up snacks, fresh fruit and Malay favourites such as satay and nasi lemak.

8Getting There & Away

Bintulu’s long-distance bus terminal is 5km northeast of the centre at Medan Jaya; a taxi to/from the city centre costs RM20. A dozen companies run buses approximately hourly to Kuching (RM70, 11 hours, departures 6am to midnight) and Miri (RM25, four hours, departures from 6am to 9.30pm).

Buses to Kuching go via Sibu (RM25, four hours); buses to Miri stop at Niah Junction (RM15 to RM20, two hours).

To arrange a 4WD inland to Belaga (per person RM50, four hours), contact Daniel Levoh. Departures are generally between noon and 2pm.

A taxi to/from Bintulu airport costs RM35. AirAsia (www.airasia.com) and Malaysia Airlines ( GOOGLE MAP ; %086-331349; www.malaysiaairlines.com) have direct flights to Kuching and Kuala Lumpur. MASwings (%086-331349; www.maswings.com.my; Bintulu airport; h7am-7pm) flies to Kota Kinabalu, Miri, Sibu and Kuching.

Niah National Park

Near the coast about 115km south of Miri, 31-sq-km Niah National Park (%085-737450, 085-737454; www.sarawakforestry.com; admission RM20; hpark office 8am-5pm) is home to one of Borneo’s gems, the Niah Caves. In addition to lots of bats and swiftlets, they shelter some of the oldest evidence of human habitation in Southeast Asia. Across the river from park HQ, Niah Archaeology Museum (motor launch per person RM1, 5.30-7.30pm RM1.50; h9am-4.45pm Tue-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun) has informative displays on Niah’s geology, ecology and prehistoric archaeology, including an original burial canoe that’s at least 1200 years old and a reproduction of the interior of the Painted Cave .

1Sights

oGreat CaveCAVE

A raised boardwalk leads 3.1km (3½ to four hours return) through swampy, old-growth rainforest to the mouth of the Great Cave, a vast cavern approximately 2km long, up to 250m across and up to 60m high. Inside, the trail splits to go around a massive central pillar, but both branches finish at the same point, so it’s impossible to get lost if you stick to the boardwalk. The stairs and handrails are usually covered with guano, and can be slippery.

4Sleeping

Bookings for the hostel (Niah National Park HQ; r RM40, towel rental RM6) and forest lodges (Niah National Park HQ; with fan q RM100, with air-con d/q RM250/150) can be made at park headquarters or through one of the National Park Booking Offices (%in Kuching 082-248088, in Miri 085-434184). Camping (RM5 per person) is permitted near the park headquarters.

The Iban longhouse of Rumah Patrick Libau, near the Great Cave (3km on foot from park headquarters), has a homestay (%Asan 014-596 2757; Niah National Park; per person incl meals RM70; W) program.

8Getting There & Away

Park headquarters is 122km northeast of Bintulu and 115km southwest of Miri, not right on the main (inland) Miri–Bintulu highway but rather 15km north of the highway’s Batu Niah Junction. The good news is that all the long-haul buses that link Miri with Bintulu, Sibu and Kuching pass by here. The bad news is that the only way to get from the junction to the park is to hire a private car (RM30, for four people RM40) – to find one, ask around outside Ngu's Garden Food Court. National park staff (or, after hours, park security personnel) can help arrange a car back to the junction.

Guesthouses in Miri offer day trips to Niah.

Lambir Hills National Park

The 69-sq-km Lambir Hills National Park (%085-471609; www.sarawakforestry.com; Jln Miri-Bintulu; RM20; h8am-5pm, last entry 4pm) offers jungle waterfalls, cool pools where you can take a dip, and a bunch of great, colour-coded walking trails that branch off four primary routes and lead to 14 destinations. Rangers can supply you with a map and are happy to make suggestions. A guided nightwalk starts at 7pm.

4Sleeping

Park accommodation is in reasonably comfortable cabins (%085-471609; Jln Miri-Bintulu; 1/-2-bed r with fan RM50/75, with air-con RM100/150). Camping (Niah National Park HQ; per person RM5) is permitted near the park headquarters. To book, call or email the park, or contact Miri’s National Park Booking Office. The park’s canteen (Jln Miri-Bintulu; mains RM4-6; h8am-5pm or later) serves simple rice and noodle dishes. If you are staying in the park and would like to eat an evening meal at the canteen, inform staff in advance.

8Getting There & Away

Park headquarters is 32km south of Miri on the Miri–Bintulu highway. All the buses linking Miri’s Pujut Bus Terminal with Bintulu pass right by here (RM10 from Miri).

Miri

%085 / Pop 300,500

Miri, Sarawak’s second city, is a thriving oil town that is busy and modern. There’s plenty of money sloshing around, so the eating is good, the broad avenues are brightly lit and the city’s friendly guesthouses are a great place to meet other travellers.

The city is a major transport hub, so if you’re travelling to/from Brunei, Sabah, the Kelabit Highlands or the national parks of Gunung Mulu, Niah or Lambir Hills, chances are you’ll pass this way.

1Sights

Miri City FanPARK

( GOOGLE MAP ; Jln Kipas; h24hr)

An attractive open, landscaped park with Chinese- and Malay-style gardens and ponds that is a popular spot for walking and jogging. The complex also comprises a library, an indoor stadium and an Olympic-sized public swimming pool (RM1).

4Sleeping

oDillenia GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %085-434204; www.sites.google.com/site/dilleniaguesthouse; 1st fl, 846 Jln Sida; dm/s/d/f incl breakfast, without bathroom RM30/50/80/110; aiW)

This super-welcoming hostel, with 11 rooms and lots of nice little touches like plants in the bathroom, lives up to its motto, ‘a home away from home’. Incredibly helpful Mrs Lee, whose beautiful embroidered quilts adorn the walls, is an artesian well of travel information and tips – and even sells leech socks (RM20).

Coco HouseGUESTHOUSE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %085-417051; www.cocodive.com.my; Lot 2117 Block 9, Jln Miri Pujut; incl breakfast dm/s/d RM35/55/80; aiW)

Coco House has bright, modern dorms with pod-like bunks and private rooms that are small but functional with splashes of colour. The spotless bathrooms have rainwater shower heads and there is a comfy common area with books, boardgames, DVDs and a microwave. There is talk of putting a barbecue on the roof terrace.

Next Room GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %085-411422, 085-322090; 1st & 2nd fl, Lot 637, Jln North Yu Seng; incl breakfast dm per person RM28, d without bathroom RM55-85, with bathroom RM85-95; aiW)

In the heart of Miri’s dining and drinking district, this cosy establishment offers 13 rooms, a small kitchen, a DVD lounge and a great rooftop sundeck. Dorm rooms are pretty packed, with eight or 12 beds. Light sleepers be warned: the nightclub across the street pumps out music until 2am.

My HomestayGUESTHOUSE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %085-429091; staymyhomestay.blogspot.com; Lot 1091, Jln Merpati; dm incl breakfast RM35, d RM55-120; aiW)

A friendly place in a good location with a spacious balcony overlooking the bustling street below. Most rooms, though clean and colourful, are windowless and a little stuffy. Prices are higher at weekends.

5Eating

Restaurants of all sorts line Jln North Yu Seng from the landmark Mega Hotel north to the Imperial Mall, with lots more cheap, popular places south of the Mega Hotel along pedestrians-only Persiaran Kabor. A number of informal but excellent seafooderies serve critters plucked live from tanks – but beware of the prices, which are per 100g.

oSummit CaféDAYAK$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %019-885 3920; Lot 1245, Centre Point Commercial Centre, Jln Melayu; meals RM8-15; h7am-4pm Mon-Sat; v)

If you’ve never tried Kelabit cuisine, this place will open up whole new worlds for your tastebuds. Queue up and choose from the colourful array of ‘jungle food’ laid out at the counter, including dure (fried jungle leaf), minced tapioca leaves, and labo senutuk (wild boar). The best selection is available before 11.30am – once the food runs out it closes.

Khan’s Islamic RestaurantINDIAN$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %012-878 9640; 229 Jln Maju; mains RM6-12; h6.30am-9pm; v)

This simple canteen is one of Miri’s best North Indian eateries, serving up mouth-watering tandoori chicken (RM12), naan bread and mango lassi (RM4) as well as a variety of curries and vegetarian dishes.

Miri Central MarketHAWKER$

(Pasar Pusat Miri; GOOGLE MAP ; Jln Brooke; mains RM2-6; h24hr, most stalls 4am-noon)

Of the Chinese food purveyors selling kari ayam (chicken curry), porridge and the usual rice and noodle dishes, stall 6 (open 3.30am to 10am) is particularly popular. Stall 20 serves up vegetarian fare.

Madli's RestaurantMALAYSIAN$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %085-426615; www.madli.net; Lot 1088 ground fl, Block 9, Jln Merpati; mains RM6-18.50; h8am-midnight Sun-Thu, 8am-1am Fri & Sat)

A long-running family business that started off as a satay stall in the 1970s; the first of three restaurants was opened in Miri 1995. As well as lip-smackingly good chicken and lamb satay (RM1 per stick), the menu includes Malaysian dishes like nasi lemak and kampung fried rice. Serves roti canai and Western breakfasts until noon.

8Information

ATMs can be found at Miri airport and are sprinkled all over the city centre.

EcoLaundryLAUNDRY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %085-414266; 638 Jln North Yu Seng; per kg RM6; h7am-6pm Mon-Sat, to 5pm Sun)

Free pick up and delivery within the town centre.

Miri City Medical CentreMEDICAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %085-426622; 916-920 Jln Hokkien; hemergency 24hr)

Has an ambulance service, a 24-hour accident and emergency department and various private clinics. Located in the city centre.

National Park Booking OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %085-434184; www.sarawakforestry.com; 452 Jln Melayu; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri)

Inside the Visitors Information Centre. Has details on Sarawak’s national parks and can book beds and rooms at Niah, Lambir Hills and Similajau (but not Gunung Mulu).

Visitors Information CentreTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %085-434181; www.sarawaktourism.com; 452 Jln Melayu; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-3pm Sat, Sun & public holidays)

The helpful staff can provide city maps, information on accommodation and a list of licensed guides. Situated in a little park.

8Getting There & Away

Miri is 212km northeast of Bintulu and 36km southwest of the Brunei border.

Air

Miri is the main hub of the Malaysia Airlines subsidiary MASwings ( GOOGLE MAP ; %085-423500; www.maswings.com.my; ground fl, airport terminal; h6am-9pm), whose destinations in Malaysian Borneo include Bario (Kelabit Highlands), Gunung Mulu National Park (Mulu), Kota Kinabalu, Kuching and Sibu.

AirAsia ( GOOGLE MAP ; %600 85 8888; www.airasia.com; Lot 946, Jln Parry; h8.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat) can get you to Kuching, Kota Kinabalu, Kuala Lumpur, Johor Bahru, Singapore and Manila, while Malaysia Airlines (%085-414155; www.malaysiaairlines.com; Lot No 10635 Airport Commercial Centre, Jln Airport) has direct flights to KL.

Bus

Long-distance buses use the Pujut Bus Terminal, about 4km northeast of the centre. It's linked to the city centre's local bus terminal (next to the tourist office) by buses 20 and 33A (RM1.60 or RM2.60), which run about every 90 minutes from 6.30am to 6.30pm. A taxi costs RM20.

A number of companies send frequent buses southwestward to destinations such as Bintulu, Sibu and Kuching from 6.30am to 10pm; all pass by Lambir Hills National Park. Taking a spacious 'VIP bus', with just three seats across, is like flying 1st class!

PHLS Express sends buses to Brunei, including Bandar Seri Begawan and Bangar, at 8.15am and 3.45pm. Tickets are sold at the Bintang Jaya (%Kuching 082-531133, Miri 085-432178; www.bintangjayaexpress.com) counter.

Borneo Bus has a service to Kota Kinabalu (KK) every day at 7.45am, while Bintang Jaya's daily KK bus leaves at 8.30am.

Seats for many routes can be booked via www.busonlineticket.com.

Buses from Miri:

Destination	Fare (RM)	Duration (hr)
Bandar Seri Begawan (Brunei)	50	3½
Batu Niah Junction (for Niah NP)	10-12	1½
Bintulu	20-27	3½
Kota Kinabalu	90	10
Kuching	60-90	13-15
Sibu	40-50	7-8

GETTING TO BRUNEI: MIRI TO BANDAR SERI BEGAWAN

Getting to the border The only company that's allowed to take passengers from Miri to destinations inside Brunei is PHLS Express (%in Brunei +673 277 1668, in Miri 085-438301), which sends buses at 8.15am and 3.15pm daily from Miri's Pujut Bus Terminal to Bandar Seri Begawan (RM50).

Another option is a private transfer run by father-and-son team Mr Fu and Ah Pau (RM70 per person, three hours). Call Mr Fu on 013-833 2231; reservations can also be made through Dillenia Guesthouse.

At the border Border formalities (open 6am to 10pm) are usually quick, and for most nationalities (except Australians) Bruneian visas are free. If you'll be continuing on to Sabah, make sure you have enough pages in your passport for no fewer than 10 stamps.

Moving on The bus from Miri stops near the centre of BSB. For information on making this crossing in the opposite direction, see here.

Gunung Mulu National Park

Few national parks anywhere in the world pack so many natural marvels into such a small area. From caves of mind-boggling proportions to other-worldly geological phenomena such as the Pinnacles to brilliant old-growth rainforest, 529-sq-km Gunung Mulu National Park (Gunung Mulu World Heritage Area; %085-792300; www.mulupark.com; for five calendar days RM30) – declared a Unesco World Heritage Site in 2002 – is truly one of our planet’s wonders.

1Sights & Activities

When you register, helpful park staff will give you a schematic map of the park on which you can plan out your daily itineraries.

You can take several excellent jungle trails unaccompanied as long as you inform the park office (or, when it's closed, someone in the Park Security building) – options include the 8km Paku Valley Loop.

Mulu’s ‘show caves’ (caves that can be visited without special training or equipment) are the park's most popular attractions and for good reason: they are truly awe-inspiring. Cave routes that require special equipment and a degree of caving experience are known as ‘adventure caves’. For both, bring a torch.

All of the caves and some of the rainforest hikes require a certified guide. Advance reservations are a must, especially if you’ve got your heart set on adventure caving, or on hikking to the Pinnacles or up to the summit of Gunung Mulu. July, August and September are the park’s busiest months, but even then spots do open up at the last minute if you're able to hang out at the park for a few days. Tour agencies charge more than the park itself but may be able to find a guide on short notice.

oDeer Cave & Lang CaveCAVE

(per person RM30; h2pm & 2.30pm)

A 3km walk through the rainforest takes you to these adjacent caverns. The Deer Cave – over 2km in length and 174m high – is the world’s largest cave passage open to the public, while the Lang Cave – more understated in its proportions – contains interesting stalactites and stalagmites. Be sure to stay on for the 'bat exodus' at dusk.

Wind Cave & Clearwater CaveCAVE

(per person incl boat ride RM65; h8.45am & 9.15am)

Zipping along a jungle river in a longboat on your way to the caves is not a bad way to start the day. The Wind Cave, named for the cool breezes blowing through it, has several chambers, including the cathedral-like King’s Chamber, filled with dreamlike forests of stalagmites and columns. There is a sweaty 200-step climb up to Clearwater Cave and the subterranean river there. The cave itself is vast: more than 200km of passages have been surveyed so far.

Mulu Canopy SkywalkWALKING

(Gunung Mulu National Park; per person RM42.40; h7am, 8.30am, 10am, 10.30am, 1pm & 2pm)

Mulu’s 480m-long skywalk, unforgettably anchored to a series of huge trees, has excellent signage and is one of the best in Southeast Asia. Often gets booked out early – for a specific time slot, reserve as soon as you’ve got your flight.

PinnaclesTREKKING

(per person RM400; hTue-Thu & Fri-Sun)

The Pinnacles are an incredible formation of 45m-high stone spires protruding from the forested flanks of Gunung Api. Getting there involves a boat ride and, in between two overnights at Camp 5 (per person incl boat ride RM190), an unrelentingly steep 2.4km ascent. Coming down is just as taxing, so by the time you stagger back to camp, the cool, clear river may look pretty enticing.

Gunung Mulu SummitTREKKING

(per person RM500, minimum 3 people)

The climb to the summit of Gunung Mulu (2376m) – described by one satisfied ascendee as ‘gruelling’ and, near the top, ‘treacherous’ – is a classic Borneo adventure. If you’re very fit and looking for a challenge, this 24km, three-day, four-night trek may be for you. The climb must be booked at least one month in advance.

Headhunters’ TrailTREKKING

The physically undemanding Headhunters’ Trail continues on from Camp 5 for 11km in the direction of Limbang and is an overland alternative to flying in or out of Mulu. The park does not offer guided trips along this trail, but several private tour operators do, and it is also (theoretically) possible to do it without a guide.

4Sleeping

Options at park headquarters – a truly lovely spot – include a hostel (dm incl breakfast RM52) that has 20 beds in a clean, spacious dormitory-style room (lockers available), as well as longhouse rooms (s/d/tr/q incl breakfast RM209/247/277/313; a), cabins (q incl breakfast RM387; a) and garden bungalows (s/d/tr incl breakfast RM253/294/341; a). At the time of research, 12 new longhouse-style rooms were being constructed, which should go someway towards allieviating the accommodation shortage.

Several budget places, unaffiliated with the park, can be found across the bridge from park headquarters, along the banks of Sungai Melinau. There are plenty of beds, so if you don’t mind very basic digs, you can fly up without worrying about room availability.

D'Cave HomestayHOMESTAY$

(%for Dina 012-872 9752; beckhamjunior40@yahoo.com; incl breakfast dm RM30, d RM120, d without bathroom RM80)

A friendly, rather ramshackle place with mismatched patterned lino, beds crammed into small rooms and basic, and outdoor bathrooms. Owner Dina cooks buffet-style lunches (RM15) and dinners (RM18), has tea and coffee, and has boiled water for water-bottle refills. Situated between the airport and the turning for the park – about a 10-minute walk from each.

Mulu River LodgeHOSTEL$

(Edward Nyipa Homestay; %012-852 7471; dm/d/q incl breakfast RM35/70/140)

Has 30 beds, most in a giant, non-bunk dorm room equipped with clean showers and toilets at one end. Electricity flows from 5pm to 11.30pm. One of the few guesthouses outside the park, if not the only one, with a proper septic system. Located a five-minute walk from park HQ, just across the bridge from the entrance.

Mulu BackpackersGUESTHOUSE

(%Helen 012-871 2947, Peter 013-846 7250; mulubackpackers@gmail.com; dm incl breakfast RM35)

Mulu Backpackers, situated just past the airport, occupies a picturesque spot by the river but is a 15-minute walk from the park. There is a pleasant sheltered outdoor dining area with views of the water and electricity from 6pm to 6am. The 17 beds here are arranged in large, barn-like space with some randomly positioned partition walls.

5Eating

At park HQ, Café Mulu (mains RM12.50-16; h7.30am-8.30pm) serves up tasty meals for double what you'd pay on the coast. There are a number of slightly cheaper eateries just outside the park gates, including Good Luck Cave'fe Mulu (mains RM8-10; h11.30am-3pm & 5pm-midnight, kitchen closes at 9.15pm). Cooking is not allowed in park accommodation.

8Information

Park HQ accepts credit cards and can also do cash withdrawals of RM100 to RM300 (one transaction per day) for a 2% fee, but the machine is temperamental.The shop and cafe area at park HQ has an excruciatingly slow and unreliable wi-fi connection (RM5 per day).

8Getting There & Away

Unless you walk the Headhunters' Trail, pretty much the only way to get to Mulu is by air. MASwings flies to Miri, Kuching and KK. Park headquarters is a walkable 1km from the airport; taking a van costs RM5. Tickets can be bought at Mulu airport, though some discounts are only available online.

Kelabit Highlands

Nestled in Sarawak’s northeastern corner, the upland rainforests of the Kelabit Highlands are sandwiched between Gunung Mulu National Park and the Indonesian frontier. The main activity here, other than enjoying the clean, cool air, is hiking from longhouse to longhouse on mountain trails.

Bario

The ‘capital’ of the highlands, Bario consists of about a dozen ‘villages’ spread over a beautiful valley, much of it given over to rice growing. Some of the appeal lies in the mountain climate (the valley is 1500m above sea level) and splendid isolation (the only access is by air and torturous 4WD track), but above all it’s the unforced hospitality of the Kelabit people that will quickly win you over.

The highlands are famous for the delicious local cuisine; in July visitors flock to Bario for the annual three-day food festival.

1Sights & Activities

The temperate Kelabit Highlands offer some of the best jungle hiking in Borneo, taking in primary rainforest, rugged peaks and remote Kenyah, Penan and Kelabit settlements. Walks from Bario range from easy overnight trips to nearby longhouses to week-long slogs into the wilds of Kalimantan. Be prepared to encounter leeches – many trails are literally crawling with them.

Bario Asal LonghouseHOUSE

(admission RM5)

This all-wood, 22-door longhouse has the traditional Kelabit layout. On the dapur (enclosed front verandah) each family has a hearth, while on the other side of the family units is the tawa’, a wide back verandah – essentially an enclosed hall over 100m long – used for weddings, funerals and celebrations and decorated with historic family photos.

Pa’ Umor MegalithsHISTORIC SITE

From Bario it’s a 1½-hour walk to Pa’ Umor, and another 15 minutes to Arur Bilit Farm, home to Batu Narit, an impressive stone carving featuring a human in a spread-eagled position among its designs.

Take the log bridge across the small river to reach Batu Ipak. According to legend, this stone formation was created when an angry warrior named Upai Semering pulled out his parang (machete) and took a wrathful swing at the rock, cutting it in two.

Prayer MountainHIKING

From the Bario Asal Longhouse, it’s a steep, slippery ascent (two hours) up to the summit of Prayer Mountain, which has a cross that was erected in 1973, thickets of pitcher plants and amazing views of the Bario Valley and of the mixed Penan and Kelabit hamlet of Arur Dalan, with its three defunct wind turbines. Two-thirds of the way up is an extremely rustic church.

HIKING IN THE HIGHLANDS

With very few exceptions, to explore the Kelabit Highlands you'll need to hire a local guide. Fortunately this could hardly be easier. Any of the guesthouses in Bario can organise a variety of short hikes and longer walks – such as a three- to four-day hike from Bario to Ba Kelalan – led by guides they know and rely on.

The going rate for guides is RM120 per day for either a Bario-based day trip or a longer hike. If your route requires that you camp in the forest, expect to pay approximately RM120 per night, and you may be asked to supply food. If you are connecting the dots between rural longhouses, expect to pay RM70 to RM80 for a night’s sleep plus three meals. When hiking in one direction only you'll need to pay your guide for the time it takes him to walk home and also hire a porter (RM100 per day) for the whole trip so that the guide does not have to return alone.

4Sleeping & Eating

Bario’s various component villages are home to over 20 guesthouses where you can dine on delicious Kelabit cuisine (accommodation prices almost always include board). See www.barioexperience.com for further options.

Libal ParadiseGUESTHOUSE$

(%019-807 1640; d RM60)

Surrounded by a verdant fruit and vegetable garden where you can pick your own pineapples, this sustainably run farm offers accommodation in two neat wooden cabins, each occupying their own idyllic spot in the greenery. Run by Rose and her Canadian husband Stu. From the airport terminal, walk eastward along the road that parallels the runway. Meals cost RM45 per day.

JunglebluesdreamGUESTHOUSE$$

(%019-884 9892; www.junglebluesdream.weebly.com; Ulung Palang Longhouse, Bario; per person incl meals RM90)

Owned by artist and one-time guide Stephen Baya, a Bario native, and his friendly Danish wife Tine, this super-welcoming lodge (and art gallery) has four mural-decorated rooms, good-quality beds and quilts, a library of books on local culture and wildlife and fantastic Kelabit food. Guests can consult Stephen’s extraordinary hand-drawn town and trekking maps.

Bario Asal LonghouseHOMESTAY$$

(%Julian 011-2508 1114; visitbario@gmail.com; per person incl meals RM80; W)

There are various homestays in this traditional longhouse, including a six-room guesthouse at Sinah Rang Lemulun. Staying at Bario Asal – which is home to 22 families – is a great way to experience longhouse living. Transport from the airport costs RM30.

8Information

There are no banks, ATMs or credit-card facilities anywhere in the Kelabit Highlands, so bring plenty of small-denomination banknotes, plus extra cash in case you get stranded.

There's free wi-fi at the airport and solar-powered internet access at Bario Telecentre (www.unimas.my/ebario; Gatuman Bario; per hr RM4; h9.30-11.30am & 2-4pm, closed Sat afternoon & Sun). Several guesthouses offer wi-fi, at least in theory.

The best Malaysian cellphone service to have up here is Celcom.

8Getting There & Away

Bario Airport is linked with Miri two or three times a day by 19-seat Twin Otters operated by MASwings (%1300-88 3000; www.maswings.com.my); checked baggage is limited to 10kg. Weather sometimes causes delays and even cancellations.

The overland trip between Bario and Miri, on very rough logging roads, is possible only by 4WD (per person RM150, 12 to 15 hours or more).

Understand Malaysia

Malaysia Today

National tragedies and political troubles have impacted Malaysia in recent years. Malaysian Airlines lost two of its passenger airplanes in tragic circumstances, with a combined death toll of 537. An earthquake struck Sabah on 5 June 2015 and claimed the lives of 18 people on Mt Kinabalu, shutting down the mountain to tourists for months.

In the meantime, Prime Minister Najib Razak – leader of the Barisan Nasional (BN) coaltion of political parties that has ruled Malaysia since the 1970s – has been battling allegations of corruption and a faltering economy. In recent years, Bersih (Coalition for Clean and Fair Elections), a group of nongovernment organisations, has staged several huge rallies in KL demanding electoral reform and investigations into alleged government corruption; in August 2015 tens of thousands peacefully protested on the streets of the capital.

The BN maintains that it has created a stable government that rightfully retains its popularity. But it has curtailed freedom of speech. Malaysia was ranked 147th out of 180 countries in the Reporters Without Borders 2015 World Press Freedom Index.

The BN is primarily supported by Malays and is veering with the Malay populace towards more conservative Islamic rule. Prime Minister Najib's three-pronged strategy has been a closer embrace of Islamic Sharia laws, a stronger bumiputra agenda that essentially acts as affirmative action for Malays while trying to mastermind how the BN can also woo the six million new, young voters eligible to vote in the next elections, which need to take place before August 2018.

TRAVEL HINTS

• Malaysia is a Muslim country so dress appropriately by covering everything to the knees and over the shoulders.
• Airfares can be so cheap around Borneo that flying is sometimes cheaper than bussing.

History

Early Influences

The earliest evidence of human life in the region is a 40,000-year-old skull found in Sarawak’s Niah Caves. But it was only around 10,000 years ago that the aboriginal Malays, the Orang Asli, began moving down the peninsula from a probable starting point in southwestern China.

By the 2nd century AD Europeans were familiar with Malaya, and Indian traders had made regular visits in their search for gold, tin and jungle woods. Within the next century Malaya was ruled by the Funan empire, centred in what’s now Cambodia, but more significant was the domination of the Sumatra-based Srivijayan empire between the 7th and 13th centuries.

In 1405 Chinese admiral Cheng Ho arrived in Melaka with promises to the locals of protection from the Siamese encroaching from the north. With Chinese support, the power of Melaka extended to include most of the Malay Peninsula. Islam arrived in Melaka around this time and soon spread through Malaya.

European Influence

Melaka’s wealth and prosperity attracted European interest and it was taken over by the Portuguese in 1511, then the Dutch in 1641 and the British in 1795.

In 1838 James Brooke, a British adventurer, arrived to find the Brunei sultanate fending off rebellion from inland tribes. Brooke quashed the rebellion and in reward was granted power over part of Sarawak. Appointing himself Raja Brooke, he founded a dynasty that lasted 100 years. By 1881 Sabah was controlled by the British government, which eventually acquired Sarawak after WWII when the third Raja Brooke realised he couldn’t afford the area’s upkeep. In the early 20th century the British brought in Chinese and Indians, which radically changed the country’s racial make-up.

Independence to the Current Day

Malaya achieved merdeka (independence) in 1957, but it was followed by a period of instability due to an internal Communist uprising and an external confrontation with neighbouring Indonesia. In 1963 the north Borneo states of Sabah and Sarawak, along with Singapore, joined Malaya to create Malaysia.

In 1969 violent interracial riots broke out, particularly in Kuala Lumpur, and hundreds of people were killed. The government moved to dissipate the tensions, which existed mainly between the Malays and the Chinese. The New Economic Policy (NEP), a socioeconomic affirmative action plan, was introduced, with the aim of placing 30% of Malaysia’s corporate wealth in the hands of indigenous Malays and Orang Asli (known as bumiputra or princes of the land), within 20 years. This plan, which was partially successful, is still in force in various guises today.

Led from 1981 by outspoken, dictatorial Prime Minister Dr Mahathir Mohamad, Malaysia’s economy grew at a rate of over 8% per year until mid-1997, when a currency crisis in neighbouring Thailand plunged the whole of Southeast Asia into recession. After 22 momentous years, Dr Mahathir Mohamad retired on 31 October 2003. He handed power to his anointed successor, Abdullah Badawi, who won the general election in March 2004.

However, in the next election in 2008, BN saw its parliamentary dominance slashed to less than the two-thirds majority it had previously held. The inroads were made by Pakatan Rakyat (PR), the opposition People's Alliance led by Anwar Ibrahim, a former deputy PM who had been jailed on corruption and sodomy charges that were widely regarded as politically motivated. Abdullah Badawi resigned in favour of Najib Razak, who would go on to win the 2013 election for BN, although it was the coalition's poorest showing in the polls since 1969.

People & Culture

The National Psyche

From the ashes of the interracial riots of 1969, the country has forged a more tolerant multicultural society, exemplified by the coexistence in many cities and towns of mosques, Christian churches and Chinese temples. Though ethnic loyalties remain strong and there are undeniable tensions, the concept of a single ‘Malaysian’ identity is national policy and for the most part everyone coexists harmoniously. The friendliness and hospitality of Malaysians is what most visitors see and experience.

Moving from the cities to the more rural parts of the country, the laid-back ethos becomes stronger and Islamic culture comes more to the fore, particularly on the peninsula’s east coast. In Malaysian Borneo you’ll be fascinated by the communal lifestyle of the tribes who still live in jungle longhouses (enormous wooden structures on stilts that house tribal communities under one roof). In longhouses, hospitality is a key part of the social framework.

Lifestyle

The kampung (village) is at the heart of the Malay world and operates according to a system of adat (customary law) that emphasises collective rather than individual responsibility. Devout worship of Islam and older spiritual beliefs go hand in hand with this. However, despite the mutually supportive nature of the kampung environment, and growing Westernisation across Malaysia, some very conservative interpretations of Islam continue in certain areas, particularly along the peninsula’s east coast.

Malaysia's rapid modernisation has led to some incongruous scenes. In Sarawak, some ramshackle longhouses and huts sport satellite dishes and other mod cons. And almost everywhere you go people incessantly finger mobile phones as if they’re simply unable to switch them off.

Population

Malaysians come from a number of different ethnic groups: Malays, Chinese, Indians, the indigenous Orang Asli (literally, ‘Original People’) of the peninsula, and the various tribes of Sarawak and Sabah in Malaysian Borneo. The mixing of these groups has created the colourful cultures and delicious cuisine that makes Malaysia such a fabulous destination.

It’s reasonable to generalise that the Malays control the government while the Chinese dominate the economy. Approximately 85% of the country’s population of 29.72 million people lives in Peninsular Malaysia and the other 15% in Sabah and Sarawak on Borneo.

There are still small, scattered groups of Orang Asli in Peninsular Malaysia. Although most of these people have given up their nomadic or shifting-agriculture techniques and have been absorbed into modern Malay society, a few such groups still live in the forests.

Dayak is the term used for the non-Muslim people of Borneo. It is estimated there are more than 200 Dayak tribes in Borneo, including the Iban and Bidayuh in Sarawak and the Kadazan in Sabah. Smaller groups include the Kenyah, Kayan and Penan, whose way of life and traditional lands are rapidly disappearing.

THE PERANAKANS

One of Malaysia’s most celebrated cultures is that of the Peranakans, descendants of Chinese immigrants who, from the 16th century onwards, settled in Singapore, Melaka and Penang. While these arrivals often married Malay women, others imported their wives from China; all of them like to refer to themselves as Straits-born or Straits Chinese to distinguish themselves from later arrivals from China. Another name you may hear for these people is Baba-Nonyas, after the Peranakan words for males (baba) and females (nonya).

The Peranakans took the religion of the Chinese, but the customs, language and dress of the Malays. The Peranakans were often wealthy traders who could afford to indulge their passion for sumptuous furnishings, jewellery and brocades. Today they are most famous for their delicious fusion cooking that’s best experienced in Melaka and Penang.

Religion

The Malays are almost all Muslims. But despite Islam being the state religion, freedom of religion is guaranteed. The Chinese are predominantly followers of Taoism and Buddhism, though some are Christians. The majority of the region’s Indian population comes from the south of India and are Hindu and Christian, although a sizeable percentage are Muslim.

While Christianity has made no great inroads into Peninsular Malaysia, it has had a much greater impact in Malaysian Borneo, where many indigenous people have been converted and carry Christian as well as traditional names. Others still follow animist traditions.

Arts

It’s along the predominantly Malay east coast of Peninsular Malaysia that you’ll find Malay arts and crafts, culture and games at their liveliest. Malaysian Borneo is replete with the arts and crafts of the country’s indigenous peoples.

Arts & Crafts

A famous Malaysian Bornean art is pua kumbu, a colourful weaving technique used to produce both everyday and ceremonial items.

The most skilled woodcarvers are generally held to be the Kenyah and Kayan peoples, who used to carve enormous, finely detailed kelirieng (burial columns) from tree trunks.

Originally an Indonesian craft, the production of batik cloth is popular in Malaysia and has its home in Kelantan. A speciality of Kelantan and Terengganu, kain songket is a handwoven fabric with gold and silver threads through the material. Mengkuang is a far more prosaic form of weaving using pandanus leaves and strips of bamboo to make baskets, bags and mats.

Dance

Menora is a dance-drama of Thai origin performed by an all-male cast in grotesque masks; mak yong is the female version. The upbeat joget (better known around Melaka as chakuncha) is Malaysia’s most popular traditional dance, often performed at Malay weddings by professional dancers.

Rebana kercing is a dance performed by young men to the accompaniment of tambourines. The rodat is a dance from Terengganu and is accompanied by the tar drum.

Music

Traditional Malay music is based largely on the gendang (drum), of which there are more than a dozen types. Other percussion instruments include the gong, cerucap (made of shells), raurau (coconut shells), kertuk and pertuang (both made from bamboo), and the wooden celampang.

Wind instruments include a number of types of flute (such as the seruling and serunai) and the trumpetlike nafiri, while stringed instruments include the biola, gambus and sundatang.

The gamelan, a traditional Indonesian gong-orchestra, is also found in the state of Kelantan, where a typical ensemble will comprise four different gongs, two xylophones and a large drum.

Food & Drink

Food

The delicious food you'll enjoy in Malaysia strongly reflects the country’s Malay, Chinese and Indian influences.

There are fewer culinary choices outside the cities, where staple meals of mee goreng (fried noodles) and nasi goreng (fried rice) predominate. Vegetarian dishes are usually available at both Malay and Indian cafes, but are hardly sighted at kedai kopi (coffee shops). You can also find an excellent selection of fruit and vegetables at markets.

Roti canai (flaky flat bread dipped in a small amount of dhal and potato curry) is probably the cheapest meal (around RM1.50). But really everything, from seafood laksa to the freshly caught and cooked wild cat or mouse deer you may be offered at a longhouse, is good and often cheap.

Halfway between a drink and a dessert is ais kacang, something similar to an old-fashioned snow-cone, except that the shaved ice is topped with syrups and condensed milk, and it’s all piled on top of a foundation of beans and jellies (sometimes corn kernels). It tastes terrific.

Drink

Tap water is safe to drink in many big cities, but check with locals if you’re unsure.

With the aid of a blender and crushed ice, simple and delicious juice concoctions are whipped up in seconds. Lurid soybean drinks are sold at street stalls and soybean milk is also available in soft-drink bottles. Medicinal teas are a big hit with the health-conscious Chinese.

Alcohol incurs incredibly high taxes. A mug of beer at a kedai kopi will cost around RM7, and around RM15 at bars and clubs. Anchor and Tiger beers are popular, as are locally brewed Carlsberg and Guinness. Indigenous people have a soft spot for tuak (rice wine), which tends to revolt first-timers but is apparently an acquired taste. Another rural favourite is the dark-coloured spirit arak, which is smooth and potent.

Environment

The Land

Malaysia covers 329,874 sq km and consists of two distinct regions. Peninsular Malaysia is the long finger of land extending south from Asia and through the mountainous northern half it has some dense jungle coverage, though unprotected forests are getting cut down at an alarming rate, mostly to create oil palm plantations. The peninsula’s western side has a large fertile plain running to the sea, while the eastern side is fringed with sandy beaches. Malaysian Borneo consists of Sarawak and Sabah; both states are covered in thick jungle and have extensive river systems. Sabah is crowned by Mt Kinabalu (4095m), the highest mountain between the Himalaya and New Guinea.

Wildlife

Malaysia’s ancient rainforests are endowed with a cornucopia of life forms. In Peninsular Malaysia alone there are over 8000 species of flowering plants, including the world’s tallest tropical tree species, the tualang. In Malaysian Borneo, where hundreds of new species have been discovered since the 1990s, you’ll find the world’s largest flower, the Rafflesia, measuring up to 1m across, as well as the world’s biggest cockroach. Mammals include elephants, tapirs, tigers, leopards, honey bears, tempadau (forest cattle), gibbons and monkeys (including, in Borneo, the proboscis monkey and orangutans) and pangolins (scaly anteaters). Colourful bird species include kingfishers, sunbirds, woodpeckers, barbets, spectacular pheasants and sacred hornbills. Snakes include cobras, vipers and pythons. Of the world’s seven species of turtle, four are native to Malaysia: the hawksbill, green, olive ridley and giant leatherback.

National Parks

Malaysia’s 23 national parks cover barely 5% of the country’s landmass. The country’s major national park is Taman Negara, on the peninsula, while Gunung Mulu and Kinabalu are the two main parks in Sarawak and Sabah, respectively. Especially on Borneo, the rarity and uniqueness of local flora and fauna is such that scientists – from dragonfly experts to palm-tree specialists – are regular visitors and vocal proponents of new parks and reserves both on land and in the surrounding waters. There are also 13 marine parks in Malaysia, notably around Pulau Perhentian, Tioman and Sipadan, although enforcement of protection measures is very loose.

Environmental Issues

There’s a disparity between government figures and those of environmental groups, but it’s probable that up to 80% of Malaysia’s rainforests have been logged. There have also been huge environmental consequences as vast swathes of land have been razed and planted with trees that yield lucrative palm oil; Malaysia accounts for over 40% of global production of palm oil.

The crown of eco and social irresponsibility goes to Bakun Dam in Sarawak, which flooded some 690 sq km (the size of Singapore) of some of the world’s most diverse rainforest in late 2010 and forced up to 10,000 indigenous peoples from their homes. The dam has been criticised as being corrupt, ill-planned and unnecessary, but the state already has plans to build more dams in the region.

Responsible ecotourism is the traveller’s best antidote to these trends.

Survival Guide

8Directory A–Z

Accommodation

The following prices refer to a double room.

A$ less than RM100 (US$23)

A$$ RM100 to RM400 (US$23 to US$93)

A$$$ more than RM400 (US$93)

Customs Regulations

You are legally entitled to import 1L of alcohol and 200 cigarettes into Malaysia. Cameras, portable radios, perfume, cosmetics and watches do not incur duty. Trafficking of illegal substances can result in the death penalty – don’t do it.

Electricity

Malaysia's electricity is 240V, 50Hz; power outlets have three flat pins.

Embassies & Consulates

All the following foreign embassies are in Kuala Lumpur and are generally open 8am to 12.30pm and 1.30pm to 4.30pm Monday to Friday.

Australian EmbassyEMBASSY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2146 5555; www.malaysia.highcommission.gov.au/klpr/home.html; 6 Jln Yap Kwan Seng; mKLCC)

British EmbassyEMBASSY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2170 2200; www.gov.uk/government/world/organisations/british-high-commission-kuala-lumpur; level 27 Menara Binjai, 2 Jln Binjai; mAmpang Park)

Canadian EmbassyEMBASSY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2718-3333; www.canadainternational.gc.ca; 17th fl, Menara Tan & Tan, 207 Jln Tun Razak; mAmpang Park)

French EmbassyEMBASSY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2053 5500; www.ambafrance-my.org; 196 Jln Ampang; mAmpang Park)

German EmbassyEMBASSY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2170 9666; www.kuala-lumpur.diplo.de; 26th fl, Menara Tan & Tan, 207 Jln Tun Razak; mAmpang Park)

Irish EmbassyEMBASSY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2161 2963; www.dfa.ie/irish-embassy/malaysia; 5th fl, South Block, The Amp Walk, 218 Jln Ampang; mAmpang Park)

Netherlands EmbassyEMBASSY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2235 3210; http://malaysia.nlembassy.org; 7th fl, South Block, The Amp Walk, 218 Jln Ampang; mAmpang Park)

New Zealand EmbassyEMBASSY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2078-2533; www.nzembassy.com/malaysia; Level 21, Menara IMC, 8 Jln Sultan Ismail; DBukit Nanas)

US EmbassyEMBASSY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2168 5000; http://malaysia.usembassy.gov; 376 Jln Tun Razak; mAmpang Park)

Festivals & Events

There are many cultures and religions coexisting in Malaysia, which means there are many occasions for celebration throughout the year.

Ramadan is the major annual Muslim event – 30 days during which Muslims cannot eat, drink, smoke or have sex from sunrise to sunset. The dates of Ramadan change every year; in 2016 it starts on 6 June, in 2017 on 27 May and in 2018 on 16 May.

AChinese New Year (January/February) The most important celebration for the Chinese community is marked with dragon dances and street parades.

AThaipusam (January/February) One of the most dramatic Hindu festivals, in which devotees honour Lord Subramaniam with acts of amazing physical resilience. Self-mutilating worshippers make the procession from Sri Mahamariamman Temple in KL to the Batu Caves.

AMalaysian Grand Prix (March/April) Formula One’s big outing in Southeast Asia is held at the Sepang International Circuit in Selangor either at the end of March or early April.

AGawai Dayak (late May/early June) Festival of the Dayaks in Sarawak, marking the end of the rice season. War dances, cock fights and blowpipe events take place.

AFesta de San Pedro (June) Christian celebration on 29 June in honour of the patron saint of the fishing community; notably celebrated by the Eurasian-Portuguese community of Melaka.

ADragon Boat Festival (June to August) Celebrated in Penang.

ARainforest World Music Festival (July/August) Held for three days at the Sarawak Cultural Village, this music and arts festival features musicians from around the world and highlights indigenous music from Borneo.

ANational Day (Hari Kebangsaan) (August) Malaysia celebrates its independence on 31 August with events all over the country, but particularly in KL where there are parades and a variety of performances in the Lake Gardens.

AMoon Cake Festival (September) Chinese festival celebrating the overthrow of Mongol warlords in ancient China with the eating of moon cakes and the lighting of colourful paper lanterns.

AFestival of the Nine Emperor Gods (October) Involves nine days of Chinese operas, processions and other events honouring the nine emperor gods.

ADeepavali (November) The Festival of Lights, in which tiny oil lamps are lit outside Hindu homes; celebrates Rama’s victory over the demon King Ravana.

Food

The following refers to the price of a main dish.

A$ less than RM15 (US$3.50)

A$$ RM15 to RM60 (US$3.50 to US$14)

A$$$ more than RM60 (US$14)

LGBT Travellers

Conservative political parties and religious groups make a regular habit of denouncing gays and lesbians in Malaysia, a country where it is illegal for men of any age to have sex with other men. This said, outright persecution of gays and lesbians in the country is rare. Nonetheless, while in Malaysia, gay and lesbian travellers (particularly the former) should avoid any behaviour that attracts unwanted attention.

Visit www.utopia-asia.com which provides good coverage of gay and lesbian events and activities in the country.

Internet Access

Malaysia is blanketed with hot spots for wi-fi connections (usually free). Internet cafes are less common these days, but do still exist if you’re not travelling with a wi-fi-enabled device. Only in the most remote reaches of the peninsula and Malaysian Borneo are you likely to be without any internet access.

Legal Matters

In any of your dealings with the local police it pays to be deferential. Minor misdemeanours may be overlooked, but don’t count on it and don’t offer anyone a bribe.

It’s simply not worth having anything to do with drugs in Malaysia: drug trafficking carries a mandatory death penalty, and even the possession of tiny amounts of drugs for personal use can bring about a lengthy jail sentence and a beating with the rotan (cane).

Money

Bargaining is not usually required for everyday goods in Malaysia, but feel free to bargain when purchasing souvenirs, antiques and other tourist items, even when the prices are displayed. Transport prices are generally fixed, but negotiation is required for trishaws and taxis around town or for charter.

Tipping is not common in Malaysia.

Opening Hours

ABanks 10am to 3pm Monday to Friday, 9.30am to 11.30am Saturday

ARestaurants noon to 2.30pm and 6pm to 10.30pm

AShops 9.30am to 7pm, malls 10am to 10pm

In the more Islamic-minded states of Kedah, Perlis, Kelantan and Terengganu, government offices, banks and many shops close on Friday and on Saturday afternoon.

Post

Post offices are open from 8am to 5pm daily except Sundays and public holidays (also closed on Fridays in Kedah, Kelantan and Terengganu districts).

Aerograms and postcards cost 50 sen to send to any destination, letters from RM1.20, parcels from RM20 for 1kg.

Public Holidays

Although some public holidays have a fixed annual date, Hindus, Muslims and Chinese follow either a lunar or lunisolar calendar, which means the dates for many events vary each year.

The major holiday of the Muslim calendar, Hari Raya Puasa marks the end of the month-long fast of Ramadan with three days of joyful celebration. During Hari Raya Puasa and Chinese New Year, accommodation may be difficult to obtain. At these times many businesses may also be closed and transport can be fully booked.

In addition to national public holidays, each state has its own holidays, usually associated with the sultan’s birthday or a Muslim celebration.

Fixed annual holidays include the following:

ANew Year’s Day 1 January

AFederal Territory Day 1 February (in Kuala Lumpur and Putrajaya only)

AGood Friday March or April (in Sarawak & Sabah only)

ALabour Day 1 May

AYang di-Pertuan Agong’s (King’s) Birthday 1st Saturday in June

AGovernor of Penang’s Birthday 2nd Saturday in July (in Penang only)

ANational Day (Hari Kebangsaan) 31 August

AMalaysia Day 16 September

AChristmas Day 25 December

Safe Travel

In general Malaysia is very safe, with violent attacks being uncommon. However, the usual travel precautions apply, such as restraining your urge to go wandering around seedy areas alone late at night. The snatching of bags by thieves on motorcycles is a recurring crime in KL, Johor Bahru, Melaka and Penang’s George Town, so keep bags away from the roadside in these areas.

Credit-card fraud is a growing problem, so only use your cards at established businesses and guard your credit-card numbers.

Rabies is an ever-present problem in Malaysia – you should treat any animal bite very seriously. Leeches can be a nuisance after heavy rain on jungle walks.

Telephone

If you have your mobile phone with you, once you’ve sorted out a local SIM (buy one for RM5) you should have no problem dialling overseas. If you’re sticking to Peninsular Malaysia any of the major mobile phone service providers are fine, but if you’re heading into the remoter parts of Malaysian Borneo then get Celcom (www.celcom.com.my), which has the largest coverage. Rates for a local call are around 36 sen per minute, an SMS is also 36 sen and 4G data service costs around RM7 per week. You can add credit to prepaid SIM cards at most convenience stores.

The access code for making international calls to most countries is 00. For information on international calls, dial 103.

To call Malaysia from outside the country, dial 60, drop the 0 before the Malaysian area code, then dial the number you want.

Toilets

Although there are still some places with Asian squat-style toilets in Malaysia, you’ll most often find Western-style ones these days. At public facilities toilet paper is not usually provided. Instead, you will find a hose which you are supposed to use as a bidet or, in cheaper places, a bucket of water and a tap.

Public toilets in shopping malls and at transport depots are usually staffed by attendants and cost 10 sen to 30 sen to use; an extra 10 sen often gets you a dozen sheets of toilet paper.

Tourist Information

Tourism Malaysia (www.tourismmalaysia.gov.my) has a network of overseas offices, which are useful for predeparture planning. Its domestic offices range from extremely helpful to hardly ever open, depending on the region. All stock some decent brochures and free maps.

Travellers with Disabilities

For the mobility impaired, Malaysia can be a nightmare. In most cities and towns there are often no footpaths, kerbs are very high and pedestrian crossings are few and far between. Budget hotels almost never have lifts. On the upside, KL’s modern urban railway lines are reasonably wheelchair-accessible.

Malaysia Airlines and KTM (the national railway service) offer 50% discounts for travellers with disabilities.

Visas

Visitors must have a passport valid for at least six months beyond the date of entry into Malaysia. Nationals of most countries are given a 30- to 60-day visa on arrival. As a general rule you'll be given 60 days if arriving by air; if you arrive overland you may be given 30 days unless you ask for a 60-day permit. Full details of visa regulations are available at www.kln.gov.my.

Citizens of Israel can only enter Malaysia under special circumstances.

Sarawak and Sabah are semi-autonomous. If you travel from Peninsular Malaysia or Sabah into Sarawak, your passport will be checked on arrival and a new stay-permit issued, usually for the period left on your original Malaysian visa. Travelling from either Sabah or Sarawak back to Peninsular Malaysia there are no formalities and you do not start a new entry period, so your permit from Sabah or Sarawak remains valid.

Women Travellers

Foreign women travelling in Malaysia can expect some attention, though most of it will just involve stares from locals unfamiliar with (or curious about) Westerners. It helps, and is much more respectful of the culture, if you dress conservatively by wearing long pants or skirts and loose tops that cover the shoulders. Western women are not expected to cover their heads with scarves (outside mosques, that is). In resort areas you can wear shorts, sleeveless tops and swimwear, but it isn’t appropriate anywhere in the country to sunbathe topless. On more remote beaches you’re better off doing like the locals do and swimming fully clothed. Keep a watch out for sleazy local beach boys in Langkawi, Cherating and the Perhentians.

Tampons and pads are widely available, especially in big cities, and over-the-counter medications are also fairly easy to find.

8Getting There & Away

Air

The bulk of international flights arrive at Kuala Lumpur International Airport (KLIA), 75km south of Kuala Lumpur (KL); it has two terminals, with KLIA2 being used mainly by budget airlines. There are also direct flights from Asia and Australia into Penang, Kuching, Kota Kinabalu and a few other cities.

Land

Visas on arrival are available for land crossings into Brunei, Indonesia, Singapore and Thailand.

Sea

Indonesia

The following are the main ferry routes between Indonesia and Malaysia:

Bengkalis (Sumatra) to Melaka

Pulau Batam to Johor Bahru

Dumai (Sumatra) to Melaka

Medan (Sumatra) to Penang

Pekanbaru (Sumatra) to Melaka

Tanjung Pinang Bintan to Johor Bahru

Tanjung Balai (Sumatra) to Pelabuhan Klang and Kukup

Tarakan (Kalimantan) to Tawau

Philippines

Weekly ferries link Sandakan with Zamboanga, on the Philippine island of Mindanao.

Thailand

Ferries connect Kuah on Pulau Langkawi with Satun on the Thai coast and, from November to mid-May, with Ko Lipe; make sure you get your passport stamped going in either direction.

8Getting Around

Air

The main domestic operators are Malaysia Airlines (MAS; %1300 883 000, international 03-7843 3000; www.malaysiaairlines.com); Firefly (%03-7845 4543; www.fireflyz.com.my); AirAsia (%600 85 8888; www.airasia.com); and Malindo Air (%03-7841 5388; www.malindoair.com).

In Malaysian Borneo, MASwings (%03-7843 3000, outside Malaysia 1300 883 000; www.maswings.com.my) offers domestic flights within and between Sarawak and Sabah. These services often book up during school holidays.

Bicycle

The main road system in Malaysia has good surfaces, making the country good for bike touring, but the secondary road system is limited. Mountain bikes are recommended for forays off the beaten track.

KL Bike Hash (www.klmbh.org) has a whole load of useful information and links to other cycling-connected sites in Malaysia. Also see Bicycle Touring Malaysia (www.bicycletouringmalaysia.com)

Boat

There are no ferry services between Malaysian Borneo and the peninsula. On a local level, there are boats and ferries between the peninsula and offshore islands, and along the rivers of Sabah and Sarawak. If a boat looks overloaded or otherwise unsafe, do not board it.

Bus

Peninsular Malaysia has an excellent bus system. In larger towns there may be several bus stations. Local and regional buses often operate from one station and long-distance buses from another; in other cases, KL for example, bus stations are differentiated by the destinations they serve.

On major runs you can usually just turn up and get on the next bus. On many routes there are air-conditioned buses – but take your arctic gear, the air-con is usually pumped up to the max! Ekspres, in the Malaysian context, often means indeterminate stops.

In Sabah, frequent buses, minivans and share taxis follow the asphalt arc of the Pan Borneo Hwy from Beaufort to Kota Kinabalu to Tawau, passing by (or near) most of the state's tourism hot spots, including Mt Kinabalu, Sandakan and Semporna. For some destinations, such as the top of Mt Kinabalu and Sipadan, there's no real way to avoid booking a package.

In Sarawak, the Pan Borneo Hwy from Kuching to Sabah via Miri and Brunei is in great shape. Express buses ply the Kuching–Miri route many times a day. For travel between Kuching and Sibu, though, the ferry is faster, and boats (or aeroplanes) are the only way to get to some parts of the interior. Bus transport to/from Brunei, and from Miri through Brunei to KK, is limited to just a few buses a day.

Car & Motorcycle

Driving in Malaysia is fantastic compared with most Asian countries. The country’s roads are generally of a high quality. New cars for hire are commonly available and fuel is inexpensive (RM1.95 per litre). There are tolls for driving along the North-South Expressway running along the west coast of Peninsular Malaysia; see http://www.plus.com.my for details.

Road rules are basically the same as in Britain and Australia. However, because of the one-way systems and traffic, driving in KL and some of the bigger cities can be a nightmare. Always keep an eye out for motorcyclists and, on country roads, animals. Cars are right-hand drive and you drive on the left side of the road. The speed limit is officially 110km per hour.

Unlimited-distance car-rental costs from around RM190/1320 per day/week, including insurance and collision-damage waiver. A valid overseas driving licence is required for vehicle rental. Be aware that insurance companies will most likely wash their hands of you if you injure yourself driving a motorcycle without a licence.

Hitching

Hitching is never entirely safe and you do so at your own risk. That said, Malaysia has long had a reputation for being an excellent place to hitchhike but, with the ease of bus travel, most travellers don’t bother. On the west coast hitching is quite easy but it’s not possible on the main lebuhraya (expressways). On the east coast traffic is lighter and there may be long waits between rides.

Local Transport

Local transport varies but almost always includes local buses and taxis. In a few Peninsular Malaysia towns there are also bicycle rickshaws but in general these are dying out. The best towns for rickshaws are George Town and Melaka.

In the cities and larger towns of Malaysian Borneo you’ll find taxis, buses and minibuses. Once you’re out in the villages, though, you can either walk or find someone to give you a ride. If you’re upriver or in the boondocks your alternatives are riverboats, aeroplanes or lengthy jungle treks.

Taxi

Drivers are legally required to use meters if they exist – you can try insisting that they do so, but more often than not you’ll just have to negotiate the fare before you get in.

Compared to buses, long-distance (or share) taxis are expensive. The taxis work on fixed fares for the entire car and between major towns you’ll have a reasonable chance of finding other passengers without having to wait around too long; otherwise, you’ll probably have to charter a whole taxi.

Train

There are two main types of rail services: express and local trains. Express trains are air-conditioned and have ‘premier’ (1st class), ‘superior’ (2nd class) and sometimes ‘economy’ seats (3rd class). Similarly on overnight trains you’ll find ‘premier night deluxe’ cabins, ‘premier night standard’ cabins and ‘standard night’ cabins. Local trains are usually economy-class only, but some have superior seats. Express trains stop only at main stations, while local services stop everywhere, including the middle of the jungle.

Peninsular Malaysia

Malaysia’s privatised national railway company is Keretapi Tanah Melayu (KTM; %1300 885 862; www.ktmb.com.my). It runs a modern, comfortable and economical railway service, although for the most part services are slow.

One line runs up the west coast from Singapore, through KL, Butterworth and on into Thailand. The other branches off from this line at Gemas and runs through Kuala Lipis up to the northeastern corner of the country near Kota Bharu in Kelantan. Often referred to as the ‘Jungle Railway’, this line is properly known as the ‘East Coast Railway’.

Malaysian Borneo

In Sabah the North Borneo Railway (www.suteraharbour.com/north-borneo-railway), a narrow-gauge line running through the Sungai Padas gorge from Tenom to Beaufort, offers tourist trips lasting four hours on Wednesday and Saturday.