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Vigan

%077 / Pop 49,747

Spanish-era mansions, cobblestone streets and kalesa (two-wheeled horse carriages) are the hallmarks of Unesco World Heritage site Vigan. Miraculously spared bombing in WWII, the city is considered the finest surviving example of a Spanish colonial town. Two of Vigan’s finer mansions are the Crisologo Museum ( GOOGLE MAP ; Liberation Blvd; entry by donation; h8.30-11.30am & 1.30-4.30pm) and the Syquia Mansion Museum ( GOOGLE MAP ; Quirino Blvd; admission P30; h9am-noon &1.30-5pm Wed-Mon).

4Sleeping & Eating

Evening street stalls ( GOOGLE MAP ; Plaza Burgos; snacks P50) peddle local snacks such as empanadas (deep-fried tortillas with shrimp, cabbage and egg) and okoy (shrimp omelettes).

Henady InnHOTEL$

(%077-722 8001; National Hwy; dm P250, d P825-1375; a)

Out on the highway right where the buses drop you off, the four-bed dorms will please penny pinchers and/or early-morning arrivals looking for a few extra hours of shuteye.

Hem ApartelleGUESTHOUSE$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %077-722 2173; 32 Governor A Reyes St; s/d P600/1000; aW)

No heritage-style lodging here: the Hem is just a reliable air-conditioned guesthouse that's relatively easy on the wallet. Rooms are tiled and characterless, but there are TVs, clean sheets, clean floors and clean toilets you can sit on – win!

Cafe UnoILOCANO$

( GOOGLE MAP ; 1 Bonifacio St; mains P100-150; h9am-11.30pm; W)

Attached to neighbouring Grandpa's Inn, this cafe has a loyal local clientele, largely thanks to its take on the Vigan longganisa (the local sausage) and bagnet. Its shakes and cakes are worth a stop, too.

SPLURGE

A magnificent 135-year-old mansion, Villa Angela ( GOOGLE MAP ; %077-722 2914; www.villangela.com; 26 Quirino Blvd; d/q from P1700/3000; aW) has a giant sala (living room) festooned with fabulous antique furniture and four huge bedrooms looking much as they would have in the 18th century. One of the Philippines’ true gems.

8Getting There & Away

Many bus companies serve Manila (ordinary/air-con/deluxe P450/680/850, seven to 10 hours). Partas ( GOOGLE MAP ; %077-722 3369; Alcantara St) and Dominion ( GOOGLE MAP ; %077-722 2084; cnr Liberation Blvd & Quezon Ave) have stations near the public market, 1km southwest of the historic centre. Other buses drop you off on the national highway, 500m north of the historic centre.

Partas has about 11 daily air-con trips to Baguio (P330, five hours) via San Fernando.

Legazpi

%052 / Pop 179,481

Charm is in short supply in the city of Legazpi, but with the towering cone of Mt Mayon hogging the horizon no one seems to notice. The city lies at the centre of Southeast Luzon's Bicol region, an adventure wonderland of sorts known for fiery food and furious volcanoes. Pay extra attention to the news before heading this way lest you waltz into one of the region’s patented typhoons.

Legazpi is divided into Albay District, where the provincial government offices and airport are located, and commercial Legazpi City. A steady stream of jeepneys connects the two districts along Rizal St.

Make the vigorous 30-minute climb up Ligñon Hill ( GOOGLE MAP ; admission P20) near the airport for the best views of Mt Mayon.

4Sleeping

Mayon Backpackers HostelHOSTEL$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %052-742 2613; http://mayonbackpackers.wordpress.com; Diego Silang St, Albay District; dm with fan/air-con P250/350, d/q P1000/1200; aiW)

The only legitimate hostel in Legazpi is the clear top budget choice, with comfy six- and four-bed dorm rooms, a basic common kitchen and a rooftop with hammocks and views to Mayon. Book ahead in the high season as it fills up fast. It's near St Gregory's Cathedral.

Catalina's Lodging HouseGUESTHOUSE$

(%052-742 0351; 96 Peñaranda Ext; s/d from P200/270)

Creaky old wooden standby in the middle of Legazpi City is cheap, basic and noisy, but who's complaining at these prices. Angle for a room at the back.

oBalai Tinay GuesthouseB&B$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %052-742 3366; 70 Gapo St; s/d incl breakfast from P1050/1200; aW)

Run by the loveliest, most attentive hosts who are happy to assist with planning your Legazpi adventures, this family-run guesthouse sits on a quiet little street in Albay; head right along the riverside path from Albay Central School. The compact en suite rooms are spick and span and guests can help themselves to fruit and drinks in the common area.

5Eating & Drinking

Be sure to sample the spicy Bicolano cuisine. Must-try dishes include pinangat (taro leaves wrapped around minced fish or pork), ‘Bicol expréś’ (spicy minced pork dish), laing (a leafy green vegetable) and pili nuts mixed with miniscule, red-hot sili peppers. Try the nightly street stalls along Quezon Ave near the Trylon Monument in Legazpi City for budget Bicolano fare.

For drinking head to The Boulevard, a long stretch of seafront restobars beyond the Embarcadero Mall (behind Sleeping Lion Hill).

Seadog DinerFUSION$

(The Boulevard; mains P95-150; h7am-midnight; W)

Good pizzas and Bicol-accented Italian fare. Great spot for a drink too.

Sibid-SibidSEAFOOD$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; 328 Peñaranda St; mains P100-235; h10am-9pm; nW)

A wonderful open-air restaurant 1km north of Legazpi City, Sibid-Sibid specialises in highly original, Bicol-inspired seafood concoctions like fish Bicol express. Has the best pinangat we've had.

8Getting There & Away

Cebu Pacific and PAL Express fly several times daily to/from Manila, and Cebu Pacific adds flights to Cebu.

The main bus terminal is at the Satellite Market, just west of Pacific Mall in Legazpi City. Cagsawa (%052-235 0381) and Isarog (%0908 851 2651) have deluxe 27-seat night buses to the Araneta Bus Terminal ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; btwn Times Sq & Gen Romulo Aves, Cubao) in Cubao (P1050, 12 hours) plus 40-seat air-con buses directly to Ermita in Manila (P850). Philtranco (%052-742 0331) has deluxe services to Pasay, and there are loads of air-con and ordinary (P500) services to Cubao.

Air-con minivans zip to Donsol (P75, 1¼ hours) roughly hourly until 5pm, and to Sorsogon (P90, 1¼ hours, frequent), where you can pick up a jeepney to Matnog, departure point of ferries to Samar.

Around Legazpi

Mt Mayon

Bicolanos sure hit the nail on the head when they named this monolith – magayon is the local word for ‘beautiful’. The impossibly perfect cone rises to a height of 2462m above sea level and emits a constant plume of smoke.

The volcano's summit is closed more often than not because of the risk of eruptions – in 2013 Mayon belched boulders that killed four European climbers and a guide. At the time of research the mountain was at Alert Level 1, meaning you're not meant to climb past 'Camp 2' (1600m), although many guides (mandatory) will take you higher. The 1½-day trek to Camp 2 costs about P5000 per person for a group of two, including camping equipment, porters, permits, guides, food etc.

The best time of year to climb Mt Mayon is February to April. From May to August it’s unbearably hot; from September to January it’s wet. Donsol Ecotour and Mayon Naturalist Eco-Guides of Albay (Manega; %0915 422 4508; pinangat2001@yahoo.com) organise Mt Mayon climbs out of Legazpi. ATV tours (P700 to P3000) run by Bicol Adventure ATV (%0917 571 4357; www.bicoladventureatv.com) and Your Brother Travel & Tours ( GOOGLE MAP ; %052-742 9871; http://mayonatvtour.com) are also popular.

Donsol

Pop 4200

Every year between November and June, whale sharks (butanding) frolic in the waters off this sleepy fishing village about 50km from Legazpi. It’s truly an exhilarating experience swimming along with these silver-spotted leviathans, which can reach 14m in length.

Sightings have become much more unpredictable in recent years. After down years in 2012 and 2013, 2014 and 2015 saw the whale sharks return in decent numbers. We highly recommend contacting Donsol Ecotour (%0917 506 3554; www.donsolecotour.com) in Legazpi or the Donsol Tourist Centre before you visit to see if the whale sharks are in town. If you miss the whale sharks, the manta bowl off nearby Ticao Island is a backup option, albeit one for advanced scuba divers only.

When you arrive in town, head to the Donsol Tourist Center (%0919 707 0394, 0927 483 6735; h7am-5pm), 1.5km north of town along the coastal road, to pay your registration fee (P300) and arrange a boat (P3500 for up to six people) for your three-hour tour. Each boat has a spotter and a butanding interaction officer on board – tip them a couple of hundred pesos, especially if you’ve had a good day. Snorkelling equipment is available for hire (P300). Scuba diving is prohibited.

4Sleeping & Eating

There are a couple of homestays in town, the pick of which is super-friendly Aguluz Homestay (%0918 942 0897, 0920 952 8170; razormarilyn@yahoo.com; San José St; r with fan/air-con from P800/1000; aW). The following are north of town near the tourist centre.

oDancalan Beach ResortRESORT$

(%0905 218 2973; lyn_amor0122@yahoo.com.ph; dm P500, r P800-2000; aW)

The fan rooms and two-bed dorms at this recently renovated stand-by are Donsol's best value. The pricier concrete air-con rooms, with shiny white tiles, blonde-wood bed frames and patios, are immaculate. Equally well maintained sister property Amor Farm Beach Resort (%0909 518 1150; http://amordonsolwhaleshark.com; r P1200-1800; aW) down the road is another fine option.

Vitton & Woodland ResortsHOTEL$

(%0917 544 4089; vittonandwoodlandresorts@gmail.com; dm P500, r from P1800; hclosed Jul-Oct; aWs)

Twin resorts a couple of hundred metres away from each other north of the visitors centre. The seven dorm rooms – all of the three-bed variety – are at the older Woodland. The nicer rooms are at Vitton. Each resort has a pool, lovely garden, clean accommodation and friendly service.

8Getting There & Away

Air-con minivans (P75, 1¼ hours) and jeepneys (P60, two hours) leave hourly to Legazpi until 4pm.

The Visayas

If it’s white sand, rum and coconuts you’re after, look no further than the jigsaw puzzle of central islands known as the Visayas. From party-mad Boracay and Cebu to mountainous Negros, to dreamy Siquijor and Malapascua, the Visayas have about everything an island nut could ask for. Hopping among paradisiacal, palm-fringed isles, you’ll inevitably wonder why you can’t go on doing this forever.

Indeed, many foreigners do give it all up and live out their years managing this resort or that dive centre on some exquisite patch of white sand. Others merely end up extending their trip for weeks – or months. This is one area of the country where you can dispense with advanced planning. Just board that first ferry and follow your nose.

Boracay

%036 / Pop 9800

With a postcard-perfect, 3km-long white beach and the country’s best island nightlife, it’s not hard to figure out why Boracay is the country’s top tourist draw. Overdevelopment has made some old-timers long for the halcyon days of no electricity, but the debate about whether it’s better now or was better then won’t worry you too much when you’re digging your feet into the sand on White Beach and taking in the Philippines’ most famous sunset.

Parasails, seabirds, frisbees and paraw (small bangka sailboats) cut across the Technicolor horizon, while palm trees whisper in the breeze and reggae wafts through the air. Oh yeah, and you’re in a beachfront bar that’s generously serving two-for-one cocktails. Yes, even ‘developed’ Boracay remains a master mixologist of that mellow island vibe.

Tiny Boracay is a satellite of Panay, the most westerly of the Visayas' six major islands. Panay famously hosts the mother of all Philippine fiestas, Kalibo’s Mardi Gras–like Ati-Atihan, around the third week of January. Panay’s capital and gateway to the rest of the Visayas is Iloilo, a six-hour bus ride south of Boracay.

Boracay

2Activities, Courses & Tours

1HabagatD3

2Hangin'C1

4Sleeping

3Box & LadderB2

4Dave's Straw Hat InnC4

5EscurelC5

6Frendz ResortB2

7Hey! Jude South BeachC5

8Jeepney Hostel & Boracay Kite ResortB1

9Melinda's GardenC4

10MNL HostelB2

11Ocean Breeze InnC4

12OrchidsC4

13Second WindB1

14Sulu-PlazaC4

15Tree House Da MarioC5

5Eating

16Crafty'sB2

17Dos MestizosB4

18Nargisa Coffee ShopC5

19Plato D'BoracayB3

20SeagaiaA1

21SmokeB2

22SmokeB2

6Drinking & Nightlife

23ArwanaC5

24Bom BomB2

25Boracay Nutria WaterC4

26CocomangasB2

27EpicB3

28Nigi Nigi Nu NoosB3

29Red PiratesC5

30Summer PlaceB3

2Activities

Beaches

On signature White Beach, three out-of-service ‘boat stations’ orient visitors. The area south of Station 3, known as Angol, most resembles the less-developed ‘old Boracay’. The stretch between Station 3 and Station 1 is busy and commercial. White Beach's widest, most incredible stretch is north of Station 1 around Willie's Rock.

Activities offered on White Beach include paraw rides (per hour P600), diving, stand-up paddleboarding and parasailing. Daily games of football, volleyball and ultimate frisbee kick off in the late afternoon.

North of White Beach, you can find relative solitude on sleepy Diniwid Beach (although half of this beach was recently given up to developers), while explorers looking for genuine solitude should seek out Ilig-Iligan Beach near Boracay's northeast tip.

Kitesurfing

During the height of the amihan (northeast monsoon, December to March), consistent winds, shallow water and decent prices (P19,000 for a nine- to 12-hour certification course) make Bulabog Beach on the east side of the island the perfect place to learn kitesurfing. The action shifts to White Beach during the less consistent May-to-October habagat (southwest monsoon).

Operators include Freestyle Academy (%0915 559 3080; www.freestyle-boracay.com), Hangin ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %036-288 3766; www.kite-asia.com), and Habagat ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %036-288 5787; www.kiteboracay.com).

SAVINGS IN A BOTTLE

Save the environment – and plenty of money – by refilling plastic water bottles at filling stations dotted along Boracay’s main road. Closer to the beach, near Station 3, is Boracay Nutria Water ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 1L refill P7; h6.30am-8pm).

4Sleeping

Most budget accommodation on White Beach is at Angol. Off White Beach, a backpacker ghetto of sorts is taking shape around Rd 1A toward Bulabog.

Rates everywhere drop 20% to 50% in the low season (June to October). Walking in often nets a discount, and bargaining might bear fruit at any time of year.

Angol

Walk-in guests are advised to venture south of Station 3 to a cluster of about 10 resorts located up a path behind Arwana Resort. The best deal is Ocean Breeze Inn ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %036-288 1680; www.oceanbreezeinn.info; r P1100-1900; aW), where a couple of elegant rattan-swathed garden cottages complement air-conditioned concrete rooms. Nipa (traditional thatched Filipino hut) colony Melinda's Garden ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %036-288 3021; www.melindasgarden.com; r with fan P1500, with air-con P2500-3500; aW) has the most charm. Dave's Straw Hat Inn ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %036-288 5465; www.davesstrawhatinn.com; r with fan/air-con P1800/2500; aW) is a step up in style and price. Haggle hard at all of these. Other good options here are Orchids ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0917 242 0833, 036-288 3313; www.orchidsboracay.com; Angol; r P950-2350; aW) and Escurel ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %036-288 3611; escurelinn@yahoo.com; r with fan/air-con P1000/1500; aiW).

Tree House Da MarioRESORT$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %036-288 3601; littlecornerofitaly@yahoo.com; dm P250-350, d P1400-3800; aW)

The four-bed fan dorm rooms here are far from fancy, but they are the island’s cheapest crash pads.

Sulu-PlazaHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %036-288 3400; www.sulu-plaza.com; r from P1900; aW)

For a very reasonable price you get a stylish room filled with two bamboo chairs, comfy thick beds and attractive art, plus a beachfront location right at Station 3. Or opt for the spacious corner apartments for two on the upper floor (P3100).

SPLURGE

Run by local legend Jude, Hey! Jude ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %036-288 2401, 0917 861 6618; www.heyjude-boracay.com; d incl breakfast P2900-5350; aW) is Boracay's perfect midrange beach hotel. The minimalist style and variety of rooms – the priciest of which open to the sea – are just right. The low-key breakfast by the White Beach path is the ideal start to the day.

Central White Beach & Bulabog

oMNL HostelHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0917 702 2160; www.mnlhostels.com; Rd 1a; incl breakfast dm P500-580, d P1550; aiW)

This high-rise hostel has quickly become the backpacker's choice on Bulabog. Super-clean, intelligently designed (eg private outlets and pull-out lockers at your double-wide dorm bed) and lots of fun, with a rooftop lounge and open-air kitchen, plus karaoke once a week. Hot rain showers and free breakfast don't hurt either.

Frendz ResortHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %036-288 3801; www.frendzresortboracay.com; Station 1; dm P600, r with fan/air-con P2000/2800; aiW)

A lively bar (open til 11pm) peddling cheap cocktails and teeming with young backpackers makes long-running Frendz the party people's choice. Dedicated beach beds (a two-minute walk) complement your stay. The single-sex dorms are cosy but lack air-con.

Box & LadderHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0917 881 0598; www.boxandladder.com; Boracay Midway Bldg; dm incl breakfast P500; aW)

Crawling into bed at this new hostel on the noisy main road feels a bit like crawling into a human-sized cubby hole, but they are nothing if not cozy and all sleeping 'pods' have electrical sockets, lockers and curtains.

Second WindGUESTHOUSE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %036-288 1025; www.secondwindbb.com; Bulabog Rd; dm incl breakfast P600-850, d P1750; aW)

The two en suite dorms here feel somewhat like an after-thought. However, they are among the most spacious and well appointed on the island, and the pleasant courtyard restaurant makes up for the lack of a hostel-style common area.

Jeepney Hostel & Boracay Kite ResortHOSTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %947 777 3551; www.jeepneyhostelboracay.com; Bulabog Rd; incl breakfast dm P700, d P1600-2000; aW)

Canadian-owned Jeepney is Boracay's first all-inclusive backpacker party mecca. On Bulabog Beach, it caters to hard-living kitesurfers with regular parties, a kitesurfing center and the lively Fusion Sports Bar (open 24 hours). Choose from polished bamboo dorm beds in the hostel or the kite resort's clean and colorful private rooms.

5Eating

You’ll find the best deals on Filipino food along the main road. Of course, it’s worth paying a bit more for the ambience of White Beach – just stroll along until you see something that takes your fancy. Self-caterers can shop at two supermarkets in D'Mall adjacent to the main road.

Nargisa Coffee ShopJAPANESE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Surfside Boracay Hotel, Angol; mains P100-320; h11.30am-3pm & 4.30-11pm)

One of several affordable Japanese eateries on Boracay, Nargisa commands the south end of White Beach, serving up affordable sashimi, okonomiyaki and a big P100 snack menu.

SeagaiaJAPANESE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Station 1; meals P70-400; h11.30am-2pm & 6-11pm; W)

With all the budget teppanyaki joints on Boracay, you'll think you're turning Japanese. Seagaia is one of the best, with a prime beachfront location to boot. The 'half-size' snacks (from P70) are sizable enough for a meal. Cut-rate sushi too.

SmokeFILIPINO$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; D'Mall; meals P120-180; h24hr; v)

Smoke is excellent value, with freshly cooked Filipino food, appetising coconut-milk curries and P80 breakfasts. A second D'mall branch ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; P120-180; h7am-10pm) is closer to the main road.

oPlato D’BoracaySEAFOOD$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; D’Talipapa Market; cook to order P150-250; h8am-9pm)

Choose lobster, prawns and other shellfish from the D’Talipapa market, and this family-style grill will cook them for P150 to P250. The result is prices that substantially undercut the seafood barbecues on the beach.

Crafty’sINDIAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Main Rd; dishes P250-350; h11am-late)

Never mind what’s on White Beach, truly the best Indian food on Boracay emerges from the kitchen of this rooftop bar looming over D’Mall. And yes, it’s actually spicy. It's also known for burgers and ribs.

SPLURGE

Outstanding traditional Spanish cuisine infused with local flavours – including sophisticated tapas, authentic paella, bean soups and hearty stews –- make Dos Mestizos ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %036-288 5786; tapas from P300; h10am-11pm) an island treat. Saturdays feature a sinful buffet (6pm to 9.30pm) and agreeable live background music. Amiable owners run the ship.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Bars range from peaceful, beachfront cocktail affairs, where you can sip a mai tai while watching the sun set, to throbbing discos on the sand.

Follow thumping beats to find the discos; about five or six of them carry momentum into the wee hours, even in the low season. Cocomangas ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h11am-3am) is the rowdiest, followed by Summer Place ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.summerplaceboracay.com; Station 2; admission P200; h11am-late). Epic ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.epicboracay.com; admission Fri & Sat P300; h10pm-3am) is most chichi. Bom Bom ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Station 2; h8am-2am) has live reggae on the sand in the early evening, with the beats and fun moving to the back bar after-hours.

oRed PiratesPUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Angol; h10am-2pm)

Way down at the south end of White Beach, this supremely mellow bar throws funky driftwood furniture onto the sand and best captures the spirit of the ‘Old Boracay’.

Nigi Nigi Nu NoosBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h10am-midnight)

The legendary mason jars of Long Island iced tea (they’re two-for-one during happy hour: 5pm to 7pm) more than capably kick-start any evening. And you may just stay for the juicy steaks.

Spider HouseBAR

( GOOGLE MAP )

On a rocky sunset-facing outcrop at the far end of Diniwid Beach, this is the number one sundowner drinking spot for Boracay's beautiful backpacker set.

ArwanaBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Angol; hhappy hour 1-10pm)

All-day happy hour means Boracay’s cheapest San Miguel (P30) and P69 cocktails on demand.

8Information

You'll find ATMs galore along the main road near D'Mall, plus a few more along White Beach.

Department of TourismTOURIST INFORMATION

(DOT; GOOGLE MAP ; %036-288 3689; D’Mall; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri)

Has a few brochures and updated ferry schedules out of Caticlan, Kalibo and Iloilo.

8Getting There & Away

To get to Boracay, you must first travel to Caticlan. From Caticlan, bangka ferries shuttle you to Boracay’s Cagban pier (or often to Tambisaan pier during the June to October habagat). The 15-minute trip costs P215 including terminal and environmental fees.

From Cagban, a tricycle to the White Beach area costs P150, or share a ride for P25 per person.

Air

Cebu Pacific, PAL Express and Skyjet fly regularly from Manila to Caticlan, with Cebu Pacific adding two daily Cebu flights. Caticlan airport to Caticlan pier is a five-minute walk or a one-minute tricycle ride (P50).

Caticlan airport is being expanded to accommodate bigger planes and more flights, including night flights. Until that happens, flying to nearby Kalibo, which is a cheaper alternative to flying to Caticlan, will remain a popular option. Air Asia, Cebu Pacific and PAL Express fly to Kalibo from Manila. Air-con vans meet flights in Kalibo and run to Caticlan pier (P180, 1½ hours). International flights land at Kalibo International Airport.

From Iloilo at the south of Panay, Cebu Pacific has three weekly flights to Puerto Princesa, Palawan.

Boat

Caticlan is well connected by ferry to Roxas, Mindoro. In addition, 2GO Travel ( GOOGLE MAP ; %036-288 1422; Main Rd) has ferries to Batangas (for Manila; from P1000, 10 hours, at least daily).

Bus

Ceres Lines has hourly buses to Iloilo (P350, six hours) via Kalibo (P107, two hours) from Caticlan pier; the last one departs at 4pm.

MOVING ON FROM BORACAY OVERLAND OR BY SEA

Domestic flights out of Caticlan and Kalibo are limited to Manila and Cebu. With a little pluck, you can get to the following destinations without taking to the skies.

Puerto Galera This is relatively easy, just take a ferry to Roxas, Mindoro (four hours), then transfer to northbound vans (4½ hours).

Palawan From Iloilo at the south of Panay, Montenegro Lines (P1220, 26 hours, 8am Saturday) and less seaworthy Milagrosa Shipping (P950, 36 hours, 7pm Monday and Thursday) sail to Puerto Princesa, Palawan, via the Cuyo Islands. Another option is take the ferry to Roxas, Mindoro, then catch a bus or van to San Jose, Mindoro, where you'll find four or five weekly trips to Coron (6½ hours).

Bohol A long one but a fun one. Head down to Iloilo, which is well connected to Bacolod, Negros, by fastcraft (one hour). From Bacolod take a bus to Dumaguete (six hours); go via Sipalay if you wish. Then travel to Bohol by fastcraft (two hours).

8Getting Around

Tricycles ply the main road and cost only P10 provided you steer clear of the disingenuously named ‘special trips’ offered by stationary tricycles, which cost a not-so-special P50 to P100. Try a silent new E-Trike, whose roominess feels luxurious.

Negros

If any Visayan island can boast to have it all, it is surely Negros. Here you’ll find one of the country’s top dive spots (Apo Island), one of the top remote beaches (Sipalay) and one of the mellowest provincial towns (Dumaguete). The heavily forested interior, besides being a major biodiversity hotbed, provides a stunning backdrop for drives around the island. Along the west coast, vast, bright-green sugarcane fields abut the shimmering waters of the Sulu Sea.

Dumaguete

%035 / Pop 116,000

Dumaguete (doo-ma-get-ay) is a perfect base for exploring all that the southern Visayas offer. A huge college campus engulfs much of its centre, saturating the city with youthful energy and attitude. The location – in the shadow of twin-peaked Cuernos de Negros (1903m) and just a few clicks from some marvellous hiking, beaches and diving – takes care of the rest.

Most dining, drinking and strolling happens on and around the attractive waterfront promenade flanking Rizal Blvd.

2Activities

The Dumaguete area boasts top-notch adventures, including diving. Nearby Apo Island is the big draw for underwater breathers. Operators include Harold's Mansion and, in the same building, Scuba Ventures ( GOOGLE MAP ; %035-225 7716; www.dumaguetedive.com; Hibbard Ave).

Many tour operators offer trips to snorkel with whale sharks in nearby Tan-awan (a barangay of Oslob), Cebu. We do not endorse these as they are essentially captive whale sharks, kept there and disrupted from their normal migratory patterns because locals feed them.

Back on terra firma you’ll find caving, rock climbing and trekking on Cuernos de Negros and around the Twin Lakes, north of Dumaguete near Bais.

4Sleeping

Harold’s MansionHOSTEL$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0917 302 4455, 035-422 3477; www.haroldsmansion.com; 205 Hibbard Ave; dm/s/d from P250/350/500; aiW)

This long-running high-rise hostel has seen better days, but luckily you can escape the dysfunctional rooms and grouchy staff by heading up to the the sociable rooftop bar-restaurant, which remains a good place to quaff beers, play pool and meet fellow travellers.

OK Pensionne HouseGUESTHOUSE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %035-225 5702; Santa Rosa St; d P275-770; aW)

This massive, sprawling and slightly rundown place is just what it says it is: OK. It has an enormous variety of mostly windowless rooms. Even the cheapies are en suite and have desks.

Island's LeisureBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0915 349 1132; www.islandsleisurehotel.com; Hibbard Ave; d incl breakfast with/without bathroom from P1600/990; aWs)

This alluring property combines Zen modernism with indigenous Philippine elements. Think woven lamps, contemporary art, stone love seats and plasma TVs. Service is hit-or-miss, however. It doubles as a spa and is 1km north of Harold’s Mansion.

5Eating & Drinking

QyoskoFILIPINO$

( GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Santa Rosa & Perdices Sts; mains P60-120; h7am-3am; W)

This local legend serves up sticky ribs and hot Filipino dishes, plus delicious shakes and coffee from its air-conditioned adjoining coffee shop.

La BellaITALIAN$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; Rizal Blvd; meals P200-300; h9am-10pm; W)

Go ahead, treat yourself to a decent meal; you deserve it. La Bella is an import from Cebu that serves mouth-watering pizzas, pastas, meaty Italian mains and rich breakfasts like eggs Benedict, all cooked by an Italian chef.

oHayahayBAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; 201 Flores Ave; h4pm-late)

In a cluster of bars and restaurants on the waterfront 2km north of Bethel Guesthouse, Hayahay is known for delicious fresh seafood and rockin’ reggae Wednesdays. On weekends the live music continues until 4am.

8Getting There & Away

Cebu Pacific and PAL Express each have two daily flights to Manila. Cebu Pacific flies to Cebu thrice weekly.

Oceanjet ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0923 725 3734) fastcraft go to Cebu (P1200, 4½ hours, 3pm) via Tagbilaran (P700, two hours) on Bohol. There are also RORO ferries to Cebu.

From the nearby port of Sibulan, frequent fastcraft (P62) and bangka (P47) alternate trips to Lilo-an on Cebu island (25 minutes), from where there are buses to Cebu City via Oslob. For Moalboal, cross from Tampi, Negros, to Bato, Cebu, by RORO (every 90 minutes) and pick up a northbound Ceres bus there.

Ceres Bus Lines (Perdices St) connects Dumaguete and Bacolod (ordinary/air-con P275/378, six hours, every 45 minutes) via Kabankalan.

Apo Island

Pop 745

For a taste of small-village life on an isolated island, it’s hard to beat this coral-fringed charmer, one of the Philippines' best snorkelling and dive spots.

Most people visit on day trips from Dauin or Dumaguete (diving/snorkelling trips from P2800/1000 per person including two dives), but thrifty souls will fare better staying on the island. Liberty’s Lodge & Dive (%0920 238 5704; www.apoisland.com; dm/s/d incl full board from P900/1650/2100; aW) has appealingly rustic rooms and a laid-back atmosphere, and transfers guests to the island for P300 per person.

Behind Liberty's, Mario Scuba (%0906 361 7254; http://mariosscubadivinghomestay.com; dm P300, d P500-1000; W) has a six-bed dorm and some large, en suite private rooms with polished floors and private balconies.

Around the point from Liberty’s, Apo Island Beach Resort (%0917 701 7150, in Dumaguete 035-226 3716; www.apoislandresort.com; dm P800, d from P2700) has a lovely secret cove all to itself, but Liberty's and Mario are better run and better value. There are also homestays available on the island for P500 (ask around).

A couple of bangkas depart the island for Malatapay, 18km south of Dumaguete (P20, 40 minutes by bus or jeepney), around 6.30am and return around 3pm (P300, 45 minutes). Chartering a five-passenger bangka costs P1500 to P2000 one way (negotiate).

Sipalay

%034 / Pop 11,275

You could get stuck for days – make that months – in this remote fishing town on Negros’ southwest edge. At delicious Sugar Beach a growing cluster of resorts caters to those looking to achieve full Robinson Crusoe effect. It really fills up in the high season these days, so book ahead.

Divers should head 6km south of Sipalay to the pricier resorts of barangay Punta Ballo, which is also a jump-off point for some quality island-hopping to the south. Kayaking through the mangroves of the Nauhang River just south of Sugar Beach is another must.

4Sleeping & Eating

Driftwood VillageBEACH RESORT$

(%0920 900 3663; www.driftwood-village.com; Sugar Beach; dm P250-300, d from P450; W)

Offers a classic mellow beach vibe with hammocks and nipa huts of variable quality scattered about its leafy grounds. The kitchen specialises in Thai food, but European classics are also available (dishes around P200). Also has a marvellous pirate pub hidden under a bushy canopy.

Sulu SunsetBEACH RESORT$

(%0919 716 7182; www.sulusunset.com; Sugar Beach; r P650-1350)

The right recipe: nice nipa huts with tile floors, en suite bathrooms, and verandahs with hammocks facing the sea, at very attractive prices. The restaurant serves delicious wood-fired pizza and German specialties. It's at the far end of the beach.

Sugar RockINN$$

(%0908 429 8413; r P650-1750; aW)

Attached to a popular sunset bar perched over an outcrop at the far end of Sugar Beach, Sugar Rock recently added a few stylishly designed rooms. Do come here for sunset. The views are magnificent, and sometimes the party continues on with live music.

8Getting There & Away

Getting to Dumaguete requires three separate Ceres buses: Sipalay to Hinoba-an (P25, 45 minutes), Hinoba-an to Bayawan (P80, 1½ hours) and Bayawan to Dumaguete (P100, two hours). Connections are easy. Regular Ceres buses also connect Sipalay with Bacolod (ordinary/air-con P189/289, 5½ hours).

Sugar Beach is about 5km north of Sipalay proper, across two rivers. Arrange a boat transfer to your resort from Sipalay proper (P350, 15 minutes), or disembark from the Bacolod–Sipalay bus in barangay Montilla and take a tricycle to barangay Nauhang (P100, 15 minutes), where small paddle boats bring you across the river to Sugar Beach for P15.

Siquijor

%035 / Pop 87,700

Spooky Siquijor is renowned for its witches and healers, but don’t be scared away. It's also a backpacker paradise with lovely scenery and the best-value beachfront accommodation in the Philippines. With your own motorbike you can travel around the island's 72km coastal ring road in a day and explore beaches, colonial relics, waterfalls, caves and charming villages. Rent a motorbike at the pier when you arrive (P300).

Sandugan, 15km northeast of Siquijor town, has an end-of-the-earth feel, but the beaches are nicer in Solangon, 9km southwest of Siquijor town.

4Sleeping

Kiwi Dive ResortRESORT$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0908 889 2283; www.kiwidiveresort.com; Km 16.9, Sandugan; r with fan P450-690, with air-con P990-1190; aiW)

It’s a lovely walk down a trellis-covered pathway from the simple and clean hillside rooms to the beach, sitting area and small bar. There’s a dive centre, and motorcycles, mountain bikes and kayaks are available for hire.

JJ’s Backpackers Village & CafeHOSTEL$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0918 670 0310; jiesa26@yahoo.com; Km 64.6, Solangon; tent/dm P250/350, d P500-600; iW)

Laid-back JJ’s is a throwback to the carefree days when you could camp on a beach, cook your own food and enjoy yourself without any worries. Located on a well-maintained patch of beach, it has only a few rooms; if those are booked you’re free to pitch a tent.

Tori's Backpacker's ParadiseHOSTEL$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0907 132 6666; torisbackpackersparadise@gmail.com; Km 60.8, Tubod; dm/d from P300/500; W)

Run by an exceedingly nice couple, this small backpacker crash pad has a handful of basic rooms near the water and a delicious (if slow) restaurant up by the road. It's on a rocky strip of shoreline, but within walking distance of the white-sand beach around Coco Grove Resort.

Casa MirandaGUESTHOUSE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0917 910 6995; Km 64.4, Solangon; dm P250, d P300-500)

You won't find beachfront accommodation – en suite, no less – this cheap anywhere in the Philippines. The no-frills rooms and one musty dorm occupy a rambling structure fronting a decent stretch of sand just southeast of JJ's.

Charisma Beach ResortRESORT$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0908 915 3449; www.charisma-resort.com; Km 64.8, Solangon; r P1000-1750; aW)

Choose from spacious beachfront fan rooms, air-con rooms abutting a pool set back from the beach, and a single cosy fan cottage at the back. All rooms have private balconies.

8Getting There & Around

The vast majority of visitors arrive at the pier in Siquijor town via fastcraft from Dumaguete. GL Shipping ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0915 891 1426; hno trips Sat) (P130, 1½ hours, five trips) and Oceanjet (P210, 45 minutes, 12.50pm) ply the route. Montenegro Lines and Aleson Lines follow with a few slower ROROs (P100) to both Siquijor town and Larena, 9km northeast of Siquijor town.

At the pier in Larena, you'll find RORO ferries to Cebu (P350, 10½ hours) on Tuesday, Thursday and Sunday nights via Tagbilaran (P270, 3½ hours).

From the pier in Siquijor town, a tricycle costs about P120 to Solangon or Larena, and P170 to Sandugan.

Cebu

Surrounded on all sides by the Philippine isles and dotted with tranquil fishing villages, Cebu is the island heart of the Visayas. Cebuanos are proud of their heritage – it is here that Magellan sowed the seed of Christianity and was pruned for his efforts at the hands of the mighty Chief Lapu-Lapu. The island’s booming metropolis, Cebu City, is a transport hub to pretty much anywhere. Pescador Island, near the laid-back town of Moalboal, placed Philippine diving on the world map, while the Malapascua marine scene boasts close encounters of the thresher-shark kind.

Cebu City

%032 / Pop 866,000

The island capital is much more laid-back than Manila as a place to arrive in or leave the Philippines. One of the first stops on Spain’s conquest agenda, Cebu lays claim to everything old – including the oldest street (Colon St), the oldest university and the oldest fort. By night Cebu turns decidedly hedonistic.

Cebu’s downtown district is its mercantile nucleus. Most of the sights are here, but you must wade through exhaust fumes, beggars, prostitutes and block after block of downmarket retail madness to get to them. Uptown is much more pleasant and has better accommodation, mostly near the central Fuente Osmeña roundabout.

Cebu City

1Top Sights

1Basilica Minore del Santo NiñoD6

2Fort San PedroE7

1Sights

3Casa Gorordo MuseumE5

4Museo SugboE4

5University of San Carlos MuseumC5

4Sleeping

6Cebu R HotelB2

7Elicon HouseD5

8Gran Tierra SuitesB2

9Le Village HostelD2

10Mayflower InnB1

11Tr3atsA2

12Travelbee GuesthouseC2

5Eating

13Ayala CenterE1

14Bucket ShrimpsB2

15CnT LechonE1

16Cora's LechonB3

17Handuraw PizzaD1

18Joven's GrillB2

19Persian PalateC3

20STK ta Bay! Sa Paolito's Seafood HouseB2

21Yakski BarbecueB2

22ZubuchonC3

6Drinking & Nightlife

23KoaD1

24Kukuk's Nest/Turtle's NestD1

25Mango SquareC3

Transport

262GO TravelF7

Cokaliong ShippingF7

Gabisan Shipping LinesF6

27George & Peter LinesF6

Lite ShippingF7

M/V Star CraftsF7

28OceanjetF7

29Roble Shipping LinesF6

1Sights

In addition its historic sights, Cebu has a few worthwhile museums, including Museo Sugbo ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; MJ Cuenco Ave; adult/child P75/50; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat), with fascinating historical exhibits in the old provincial jail; the archaeology-oriented University of San Carlos Museum ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Del Rosario St; admission P30; h8am-noon & 1.30-5pm Mon-Fri, 8am-noon Sat); and the lovely Casa Gorordo Museum ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 35 L Jaena St; admission P70; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun), in a house dating to the mid-1800s. For a self-guided walking tour of the downtown area, pick up a 'Cebu Heritage Walk' booklet from the City Tourism Commission ( GOOGLE MAP ; %032-412 4355; www.cebucitytourism.com; Pres Osmeña Blvd; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri).

oFort San PedroFORT

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; S Osmeña Blvd; student/adult P20/30; h8am-8pm)

Built in 1565 under the command of Miguel López de Legazpi, conqueror of the Philippines, Fort San Pedro has served as an army garrison, a rebel stronghold, prison camp and the city zoo. These days it’s retired as a peaceful, walled garden and handsomely crumbling ruin. It’s a perfect retreat from the chaos and madness of downtown Cebu, especially at sunset.

oBasilica Minore del Santo NiñoCHURCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Pres Osmeña Blvd)

Cebu’s holiest church houses a revered Flemish statuette of the Christ child (Santo Niño) that dates to Magellan’s time. The church’s belfry came crumbling down in the October 2013 earthquake and is being rebuilt. The church is no stranger to hardship. Established in 1565 (the oldest church in the Philippines) and burnt down three times, it was rebuilt in its present form in 1737.

Tops LookoutVIEWPOINT

(admission P100)

Make your way to JY Square Mall in Lahug, where habal-habal (motorcycle taxis) depart for the thrilling 20-minute ride (return P300) up a winding road to the Tops lookout point, 600m above Cebu.

4Sleeping

It’s worth spending extra to be uptown.

oElicon HouseHOTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %032-255 0300; www.elicon-house.com; crn Del Rosario & Junquera Sts; s/d P550/800; aiW)S

The downtown version of its sister Mayflower and West Gorordo hotels. Same idea here – no-nonsense and clean rooms, delightful common spaces loaded with games, great vego-friendly cafe and slogans on permaculture philosophy plastered on the brightly painted walls.

Travelbee GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.travelbee.ph; 225 Elizabeth Pond St; d P900-1200, tr/q P1150/1400; aiW)

The core rooms at this friendly hotel are essentially four- and six-bed dorms, but beds cannot be booked individually so it works best for small groups. There are nifty doubles as well, and all rooms are clean and en suite. It's central but hidden on a quiet side street; have them call a cab.

Le Village HostelHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0932 413 3978, 032-416 0038; 84 Gorordo Ave; dm with fan/air-con from P400/500, d without bathroom P900-1500; aW)

Probably the best hostel in Cebu, though that's not saying much. Clean dorm rooms, a big, bright common room and unspectacular common areas both inside and out. A kitchen was in the works at research time.

Tr3atsHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %032-422 8881; www.tr3ats.com; 785 V Rama Ave; dm/d/q P388/900/1700; aW)

Cebu's original hostel has three decent six-bed air-con dorms and a few tidy en suite private rooms. However the location isn't perfect. There's not much of a common area; chill in the rooftop bar.

oMayflower InnHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %032-255 2800; www.mayflower-inn.com; Villalon Dr; s/d/tr/q P850/1150/1400/1750; aW)S

The Mayflower bills itself as a ‘permaculture’ hotel – don’t laugh, the green credentials are legit. Besides tidy, meticulously painted rooms you get a feng-shui-friendly garden cafe and a hangout lounge-library with ping pong, foosball, stacks of National Geographic mags and board games.

Gran Tierra SuitesHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %032-253 3575; www.grantierrasuites.com; 207 M Cui St; s/d P789/989; aW)

Cebu has some terrific values at the midrange, and this is a prime example. Bordering on boutique, rooms are equipped with canvas prints, small flat-screen TVs and ample desk space.

Cebu R HotelHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %032-505 7188; www.ceburhotel.com; 101 M Cui St; s/d incl breakfast from P950/1250; aiW)

Everything is tasteful here, from the smartly uniformed staff to the lime colour scheme. Rooms are kitted out with desks and low-res flat-screen TVs. Deluxe rooms are a jump up in size.

5Eating

The residential neighbourhood around parallel Orchid St and M Cui St in the Capitol region is a great place to browse for restaurants. Here you'll find beloved STK ta Bay! Sa Paolito’s Seafood House ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %032-256 2700; 6 Orchid St; mains P95-400; h10am-3pm & 5-10pm; W), known for spicy calamares, crab and huge, boomerang-like tuna panga (jaw); Bucket Shrimps ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Orchard St; mains P150-300; h9am-10pm), a fun place where you don goofy cling-wrap gloves and attack buckets of Cajun-butter shrimp; and Yakski Barbecue ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; M Cui St; skewers P20-70; h11.30am-2.30pm & 5.30pm-midnight), where huge crowds gather to eat five or six varieties of meat on a stick.

Food courts at malls such as the Ayala Center ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Lahug district; h10am-9pm) are always a good bet for cheap sustenance.

Handuraw PizzaFILIPINO$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %032-505 2121; Gorordo Ave; pizzas P300-400; h11am-midnight, til 2am Fri & Sat; W)

This Cebu institution adds native twists to its famous thin-crust pizzas. Try the mildly spicy Pizza Cebuana topped with the local chorizo. Sit inside with air-con or outdoors.

Persian PalateMIDDLE EASTERN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Mango Sq Mall, J Osmeña St; dishes P75-300; h10am-9pm; Wv)

The flagship restaurant of this popular franchise is tucked away behind National Bookstore in Mango Sq. Middle Eastern mains like spinach hummus are complemented by too-mild South Asian and Thai fare. Its menu includes a rarity in Cebu City – a large vegetarian selection.

Joven’s GrillFILIPINO$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Pres Osmeña Blvd & Jasmine St; all-you-can-eat buffet P199-260; h11am-9pm)

The best place to gorge cheaply after an extended boat journey.

PIGGING OUT IN CEBU

Cebu is the place to eat the Filipino delicacy lechón (spit-roasted suckling pig). The best places roast dozens of pigs per day and ship their product off to lechón addicts in Manila and abroad. Our favorite lechón is the spicy variety served at Rico's Lechon ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.ricos-lechon.com; F Cabahug St, Mabolo; portions from P135; W). Popular Zubuchon ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; One Mango Pl, Gen Maxilom Ave; meals from P170; h10am-10.30pm) has several branches, including one at the airport. Or for a quick fix try the small mall outlets run by Cora's Lechon ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Robinson's Place Mall, Fuente Osmeña; portions from P115; h9am-8pm) or local institution CnT Lechon ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Ayala Center, 4th fl; portions from P152; h10am-9pm).

6Drinking & Nightlife

Cebu IT Park ( GOOGLE MAP ; Salinas Dr, Lahug), about a five-minute cab ride northeast of Ayala Center, is a hot spot for bars and clubs.

Tonyo's Bar & RestaurantBAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; Salinas Dr, Lahug; h24hr)

A quintessential Cebu experience, Tonyo's is a huge, always-packed open-air restobar roughly opposite Cebu IT Park. Fill up on a 3L tube of beer delivered to your table (P225) while watching live cover bands croon.

Kukuk’s Nest/Turtle's NestBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0933 391 3837; 124 Gorordo Ave; h24hr)

This bohemian 24-hour restobar is filled with old books and contemporary art inside, and a colourful mix of local arty types outside. If you’ve had one too many, ask about the budget accommodation on offer (room P600).

KoaBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 157 Gorordo Ave; h9.30am-2.30am Sun-Thu, 24hr Fri & Sat; W)

Named after a Hawaiian tree, Koa has a great outdoor space and live tunes indoors from hump night on. While the beer is cheap and the food is decent, it's the pizzas from on-site La Bella Pizza Bistro that really shine.

Mango SquareBAR, CLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Gen Maxilom Ave; admission per club P50-150)

A clubber’s heaven attracting a fun, lively crowd, although certain places can get a little sleazy. It gets going around 10pm and the more popular places stay open until sunrise. The club names change often so your best bet is to just walk around and pick the most happening spot.

8Information

ATMs are everywhere. Internet cafes can be found in the malls.

Cebu Doctors HospitalHOSPITAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %032-255 5555; Pres Osmeña Blvd; h24hr)

Central Post OfficePOST

( GOOGLE MAP ; Quezon Blvd; h8am-5pm Mon-Sat)

A landmark downtown opposite Fort San Pedro.

HSBCBANK

( GOOGLE MAP ; Cardinal Rosales Ave; h9am-4pm Mon-Fri)

Allows P40,000 ATM withdrawals; opposite Ayala Center.

Travellers LoungeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %032-232 0293; h6am-8.30pm)

Located just outside SM City Mall, this handy lounge has a bag-drop (P30, same-day pickup only) and showers (P50), and sells certain ferry tickets.

8Getting There & Away

Air

AirAsia, Cebu Pacific and PAL have regular flights to Manila and many additional domestic and international destinations.

Boat

There’s rarely a need to purchase tickets ahead for the popular fastcrafts to Tagbilaran (Bohol), Ormoc (Leyte) and Dumaguete. The Sun Star daily newspaper runs up-to-date schedules. Buy tickets at the piers.

2GO TravelFERRY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %032-233 7000; http://travel.2go.com.ph; Pier 1)

Cokaliong ShippingFERRY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0032-232 7211-18; www.cokaliongshipping.com; Pier 1)

Gabisan Shipping LinesFERRY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0917 791 6618; Pier 3)

George & Peter LinesFERRY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %032-254 5154; Pier 2)

Lite ShippingFERRY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %032-255 1721; Pier 1)

OceanjetFERRY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %032-255 7560; www.oceanjet.net; Pier 1)

M/V Star CraftsFERRY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Pier 1)

Roble Shipping LinesFERRY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %032-418 6256; Pier 3)

Super Shuttle FerryFERRY

(%032-345 5581; http://supershuttleroro.com; Pier 8)

Supercat 2GOFERRY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %032-233 7000; www.2go.com.ph; Pier 4)

Trans-Asia Shipping LinesFERRY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %032-254 6491; www.transasiashipping.com; Pier 5)

Weesam ExpressFERRY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %032-231 7737; www.weesam.ph; Pier 1)

FERRIES FROM CEBU CITY

Destination	Duration (hr)	Fare (P)	Company	Frequency
Batangas	24	1000-1200	Super Shuttle Ferry	Sun
Cagayan de Oro	8-12	550-980	2GO, Trans Asia, Super Shuttle Ferry	at least daily
Calbayog, Samar	11	690	Cokaliong	Mon, Wed, Fri
Dumaguete (fastcraft)	4½	950	Oceanjet	8am
Dumaguete (RORO)	6	300-400	Cokaliong, George & Peter Lines	at least daily
Hilongos (Leyte)	3-5	240-280	Gabisan, Roble	several daily
Iloilo	12	600	Trans Asia	Mon, Wed, Fri 6pm
Larena, Siquijor	10½	350	Lite Shipping	3 weekly
Manila	24	from P1100	2GO	4 weekly
Ormoc (fastcraft)	2½	600-650	Oceanjet, Supercat 2GO, Weesam	several daily
Ormoc (RORO)	5	400	Lite Shipping	daily
Surigao City	7	825	Cokaliong	6 weekly
Tagbilaran (fastcraft)	2¼	400-500	Oceanjet, Supercat 2GO	frequent
Tagbilaran (RORO)	4	230	Lite Shipping	2 daily
Tubigon	1-3	110-220	Lite Shipping, M/V Star Crafts	frequent

Bus

There are two bus stations in Cebu. Ceres Bus Lines services southern and central destinations, such as Bato (P170, four hours, frequent) via Moalboal (P118, three hours) or via Oslob (P155, 3½ hours), from the South Bus Station ( GOOGLE MAP ; Bacalso Ave). Quicker air-con vans (‘V-hires’) leave for Moalboal (P100, 2¼ hours) and Toledo (P100, two hours) from a temporary terminal ( GOOGLE MAP ; Quezon Blvd) behind City Hall.

The North Bus Station ( GOOGLE MAP ; %032-345 8650/59; M Logarta Ave) is beyond SM City Mall. From here Ceres has buses to Hagnaya (P132, 3½ hours, hourly) for Bantayan Island, and to Maya for Malapascua Island.

8Getting Around

You'll find a taxi rank of regular metered taxis (P40 flag fall) on the right as you exit Mactan International Airport. Taking public transport into the centre is complicated but possible; ask the tourist desk in the arrivals hall for directions.

To get uptown from the ports, catch one of the jeepneys that pass by the piers to Pres Osmeña Blvd, then transfer to a jeepney going uptown.

Moalboal

%032 / Pop 27,400

1Sights & Activities

Divers can paddle out to the coral-studded wall off Panagsama Beach, or take a 10-minute bangka ride to Pescador Island, which swarms with marine life. A single-tank dive costs US$25 to US$30. Freediving with the sardines just off Panagsama Beach is also popular.

While Panagsama Beach is hardly worthy of the name, sand lovers can take a tricycle (P100) 5km north to lovely White Beach. Other non-diving pursuits around Moalboal include mountain biking, trekking and canyoning at nearby waterfalls. Cyan Adventures ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0927 426 6886; www.cyan-adventures.com) and Planet Action ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0917 583 0062; www.action-philippines.com) can hook you up.

4Sleeping

Cora's Palm ResortGUESTHOUSE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0998 364 0880; cora_abarquez@yahoo.com; r with fan P500, with air-con P1000-1500; aW)

The original Panagsama guesthouse, Cora’s is perched right on the waterfront smack dab in the centre. Shoot for the cosy and cheap fan rooms. Pricier rooms have kitchenettes and small fridges.

Moalboal Backpacker LodgeHOSTEL$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0917 751 8902; www.moalboal-backpackerlodge.com; dm/s/d/cottage P275/350/550/750; W)

This hostel has airy mixed and women's dorms and a couple of semiprivate rooms over a coffee shop, plus two fabulous two-floor cottages that are a steal.

Blue AbyssRESORT$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %032-474 3012; www.blueabyssdiving.com; d P850-1350, tr P1500; aW)

We prefer the cosy doubles here over the spartan triples, but all rooms are clean and functional. With attractive dive-room packages, it's ideal for divers on a budget. Located a short walk south of the Blue Abyss dive shop.

5Eating & Drinking

Drinking is the national sport of the Moalboal Republic, and there are plenty of eateries where you can secure food to soak up the deluge of beer.

Chilli BarRESTOBAR$

( GOOGLE MAP ; mains P150-210; h9.30am-last customer)

A Panagsama institution known for big pizzas, chilli con carne, Swedish meatballs and a lethal cocktail menu. ‘The liver is evil and it must be punished’, proclaims a big board by the pool table, where billiard comps take place every Wednesday.

Last Filling StationINTERNATIONAL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; meals from P180; h7am-10pm; Wv)

Famous for its energy-boosting breakfasts, replete with yoghurt, muesli, baguettes and protein shakes. Also does decent strong brewed coffee.

8Getting There & Around

Frequent Ceres buses pass through town heading south to Bato (for Tampi and Dumaguete; P70, 1½ hours) and north to Cebu’s South Bus Station (P118, three hours). To Cebu, there are also air-con minivans (P100, 2¼ hours).

Habal-habal to Panagsama Beach from Moalboal town cost P50, tricycles double that.

Malapascua Island

Pop 3500

A picturesque little island off the northeast tip of Cebu, Malapascua is the place to view thresher sharks. Divers head out at 5am to Monad Shoal, where they park on the seabed at 25m hoping to catch a glimpse of these critters. The chances are pretty good – about 75%. By day Monad Shoal attracts manta rays. Once your dive is over you can relax on signature white-sand Bounty Beach, where a string of resorts offer seaside seating in the sand.

Malapascua took a big hit from super-typhoon Yolanda (Haiyan) in 2013. But the little island staged a remarkable recovery, with most resorts reopening within a couple of months.

4Sleeping & Eating

Ask about low-season discounts and dive-accommodation packages.

oMike & Diose's Aabana Beach ResortRESORT$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0905 263 2914; www.aabana.de; d incl breakfast P500-2200; aW)

Lavish deluxe suites, smart budget rooms, big duplex air-con rooms with kitchens – no matter what you choose, you’re in for a treat. Easily Malapascua’s best value. And management is as friendly as can be. Bounty Beach feels almost private down here at the extreme eastern end.

Villa SandraHOSTEL$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0977 130 0642; jonjonmalapascua@gmail.com; dm P300; iW)

Very much a backpacker pad, next to the elementary school in Logan village, with simple shared doubles and quads, a kitchen, a hangout patio and dudes in dreads hanging about. Jonjon is your informative host.

Thresher Cove Resort & Dive CenterRESORT$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0908 139 7609; http://www.threshercove.com; dm/s/d without bathroom P350/400/950, r with bathroom incl breakfast P2500; aWs)

On a private beach a 10-minute walk north of Bounty Beach, this well-managed operation is an excellent all-rounder. The sea-view dorms and delightfully rustic 'native-style' cottages will appeal to budget-conscious divers. Free motorbike transfer from the boat drop-off.

Ging-Ging’s RestaurantFILIPINO$

(mains P60-100; h7am-10pm; v)

Inland from the beach, Ging-Ging’s serves tasty, cheap, filling vegetarian food and curries.

SPLURGE

The eponymous chef at Angelina ( GOOGLE MAP ; mains P255-595; h8am-10pm), on Poblacion Beach, around the point from Bounty Beach, cooks up heavenly creations that will have you craving Italian food for weeks. The homemade tagliatelle asparagi is al dente bliss.

8Getting There & Away

Bangkas from Maya (P80, 30 minutes) to Malapascua leave when full, roughly every hour until 5.30pm or so (until 2pm from Malapascua). If you miss the last boat, you’ll have to charter a bangka for P800 to P2000. At low tide you must pay a barge operator P20 to shuttle you to/from the bangka.

Ceres buses depart Maya pier for Cebu (ordinary/air-con P163/180, 4½ hours) every 30 minutes until mid-evening.

Vigan

SPLURGE

Legazpi

Around Legazpi

Mt Mayon

Donsol

Mindoro

Puerto Galera

Sabang & Around

SPLURGE

Puerto Galera Town

West Beaches

Roxas

The Visayas

Boracay

SAVINGS IN A BOTTLE

Angol

SPLURGE

Central White Beach & Bulabog

SPLURGE

MOVING ON FROM BORACAY OVERLAND OR BY SEA

Negros

Dumaguete

Apo Island

Sipalay

Siquijor

Cebu

Cebu City

PIGGING OUT IN CEBU

FERRIES FROM CEBU CITY

Moalboal

Malapascua Island

SPLURGE