Northern Thailand
Forming the crown of the country is a mountainous region loved for its lush forests and unique cultural attractions. This cascade of peaks and valleys unites northern Thailand with the peoples and the cultures of neighbouring Myanmar, Laos and southwestern China. The region’s ancient kingdom, known as Lanna Thai (Million Thai Rice Fields), established its capital in Chiang Mai, which retains its connection to the past. Wanderers, such as the autonomous hill-tribe peoples, traversed the range, limited only by altitude rather than political boundaries.
Chiang Mai เชียงใหม่
Pop 398,000
Chiang Mai is a cultural darling: it is a cool place to kick back and relax. The streets of the old city are filled with monks (and a ton of Chinese tourists), bookshops outnumber glitzy shopping centres and the region’s Lanna heritage is worn with pride. For culture vultures, Chiang Mai is a vibrant classroom to study Thai language, cooking, meditation and massage.
The old city of Chiang Mai is a neat square bounded by a moat and remnants of a medieval-style wall built 700 years ago to defend against Burmese invaders. A furious stream of traffic flows around the old city, but inside narrow soi lead to a quiet world of family-run guesthouses and leafy gardens. Th Moon Muang, along the east moat, is the primary traveller centre but the tourist business has sprouted up in all corners. Intersecting with Th Moon Muang, Th Tha Phae runs east from the exterior of the moat towards the Mae Nam Ping. Once it crosses the river, the road is renamed Th Charoen Muang and eventually arrives at the train station.
Finding your way around Chiang Mai is fairly simple. Pick up a copy of Nancy Chandler’s Map Guide to Chiang Mai, available at bookstores.
Chiang Mai
1Sights
2Activities, Courses & Tours
4Sleeping
5Eating
6Drinking & Nightlife
3Entertainment
7Shopping
8Information
1Sights
Chiang Mai’s primary attractions are the old city’s historic temples that show off distinctive northern Thai architecture. A few stand-out features include intricate carved teak gables, colourful exterior mosaics, Singha lions guarding the entrances and octagonal high-based chedi.
oWat Phra SinghBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(วัดพระสิงห์
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Th Singharat; admission to main wí·hăhn 20B; 
h5am-8.30pm)
Chiang Mai's most revered temple, Wat Phra Singh is dominated by an enormous, mosaic-inlaid wí·hăhn (sanctuary). Its prosperity is plain to see from the lavish monastic buildings and immaculately trimmed grounds, dotted with coffee-stands and massage pavilions. Pilgrims flock here to venerate the famous Buddha image known as Phra Singh (Lion Buddha), housed in Wihan Lai Kham, a small chapel immediately south of the chedi to the rear of the temple grounds.
oWat Chedi LuangBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(วัดเจดีย์หลวง
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Th Phra Pokklao; donations appreciated; h6am-6pm)
F
Wat Chedi Luang is not quite as grand as Wat Phra Singh, but its towering, ruined Lanna-style chedi (built in 1441) is much taller and the sprawling compound around the stupa is powerfully atmospheric. The famed Phra Kaew (Emerald Buddha), now held in Bangkok's Wat Phra Kaew, resided in the eastern niche until 1475; today, you can view a jade replica, given as a gift from the Thai king in 1995 to celebrate the 600th anniversary of the chedi.
oLanna Folklife MuseumMUSEUM
(พิพิธภัณฑ์พื้นถิ่นล้านนา
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Th Phra Pokklao; adult/child 90/40B; h8.30am-5pm Tue-Sun)
Set inside the Thai-colonial-style former Provincial Court, dating from 1935, this imaginative museum recreates Lanna village life in a series of life-sized dioramas that explain everything from lai·krahm stencilling and fon lep (a mystical Lanna dance with long, metal false fingernails) to the intricate symbolism of different elements of Lanna-style monasteries.
oWat Phra That Doi SuthepBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(วัดพระธาตุดอยสุเทพ
GOOGLE MAP
; Th Huay Kaew, Doi Suthep; admission 30B; h6am-6pm)
Overlooking the city from its mountain throne, Wat Phra That Doi Suthep is one of northern Thailand's most sacred temples, and its founding legend is learned by every school kid in Chiang Mai. The wát itself is a beautiful example of northern Thai architecture, reached via a strenuous, 306-step staircase flanked by mosaic naga (serpents); the climb is intended to help devotees accrue Buddhist merit, but less energetic pilgrims can take a funicular-style lift for 20B.
Wat Phan TaoBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(วัดพันเถา
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Th Phra Pokklao; donations appreciated; h6am-6pm)F
Without doubt the most atmospheric wát in the old city, this teak marvel sits in the shadow of Wat Chedi Luang. Set in a compound full of fluttering orange flags, the monastery is a monument to the teak trade, with an enormous prayer hall supported by 28 gargantuan teak pillars and lined with dark teak panels, enshrining a particularly graceful gold Buddha image. The juxtaposition of the orange monks' robes against this dark backdrop during evening prayers is particularly sublime.
Wat Chiang ManBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(วัดเชียงมั่น
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Th Ratchaphakhinai; donations appreciated; h6am-6pm)F
Chiang Mai's oldest temple was established by the city's founder, Phaya Mengrai, sometime around 1296. In front of the ubosot (ordination hall), a stone slab, engraved in 1581, bears the earliest known reference to the city's founding. The main wí·hăhn also contains the oldest known Buddha image created by the Lanna kingdom, cast in 1465.
Chiang Mai City Arts & Cultural CentreMUSEUM
(หอศิลปวัฒนธรรมเชียงใหม่
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.cmocity.com; Th Phra Pokklao; adult/child 90/40B; h8.30am-5pm Tue-Sun)
Set in the former Provincial Hall, a handsome Thai-colonial-style building from 1927, this museum provides an excellent primer on Chiang Mai history. Dioramas, photos, artefacts and audiovisual displays walk visitors through the key battles and victories in the Chiang Mai story, from the first settlements to the arrival of the railroad. Upstairs is a charming recreation of a wooden Lanna village.
Chiang Mai Historical CentreMUSEUM
(หอประวัติศาสตร์เมืองเชียงใหม่
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Th Ratwithi; adult/child 90/40B; h8.30am-5pm Tue-Sun)
Housed in an airy Lanna-style building behind the Chiang Mai City Arts & Culture Centre, this appealling museum covers the history of Chiang Mai Province, with displays on the founding of the capital, the Burmese occupation and the modern era of trade and unification with Bangkok. Downstairs is an archaeological dig of an ancient temple wall.
Wat Suan DokBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(วัดสวนดอก
GOOGLE MAP
; Th Suthep; donation appreciated; h6am-10pm)
Built on a former flower garden in 1373, this important monastery enshrines the other half of the sacred Buddha relic that was transported by white elephant to Wat Phra That Doi Suthep. The main chedi is a gilded, bell-shaped structure that rises dramatically above a sea of immaculate white memorial chedi honouring members of the Thai royal family, with the misty ridge of Doi Suthep soaring behind.
PEDESTRIAN COMMERCE
Once upon a time Chiang Mai was a destination for itinerant Yunnanese merchants trading goods along an ancient route from China all the way to Burma. Today the city’s pedestrian markets tap into this tradition and expertly merge commerce and culture.
Saturday Walking StreetMARKET
(ถนนเดินวันเสาร์
GOOGLE MAP
; Th Wualai; h4pm-midnight Sat)
As the sun starts to dip on Saturday afternoon, the Saturday Walking Street takes over Th Wualai, running southwest from Pratu Chiang Mai at the southern entrance to the old city.
Sunday Walking StreetMARKET
(ถนนเดินวันอาทิตย์
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Th Ratchadamnoen; h4pm-midnight Sun)
On Sunday afternoon, Thanon Ratchadamnoen is taken over by the boisterous Sunday Walking Street, which feels even more animated than the Saturday Walking Street because of the energetic food markets that open up wát courtyards along the route. There is barely space to move as locals and tourists from across the world haggle vigorously for carved soaps, novelty dog collars, wood-carvings, Buddha paintings, hill-tribe trinkets, Thai musical instruments, T-shirts, paper lanterns and umbrellas, silver jewellery and herbal remedies.
Talat WarorotMARKET
(ตลาดวโรรส
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; cnr Th Chang Moi & Th Praisani; h6am-5pm)
Chiang Mai's oldest public market, Warorot (also spelt 'Waroros') is a great place to connect with the city's Thai soul. Alongside souvenir vendors you'll find parades of stalls selling must-have items for ordinary Thai households: woks, toys, fishermen's nets, pickled tea leaves, wigs, sticky-rice steamers, Thai-style sausages, kâab mŏo (pork rinds), live catfish and tiny statues for spirit houses. It's easy to spend half a day wandering the covered walkways, watching locals browsing, and haggling for goods that actually have a practical use back home.
Chiang Mai Night BazaarMARKET
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Th Chang Khlan; h7pm-midnight)
Chiang Mai Night Bazaar is one of the city’s main night-time attractions, especially for families, and is the modern legacy of the original Yunnanese trading caravans that stopped here along the ancient trade route between Simao (in China) and Mawlamyaing (on Myanmar’s Gulf of Martaban coast). Today the night bazaar sells the usual tourist souvenirs, similar to what you’ll find at Bangkok’s street markets.
2Activities
Chiang Mai is one of the most popular places in Thailand to arrange a hill-tribe trek. Competition for business is fierce, standards fluctuate and most businesses are just booking agents not tour operators.
Most companies offer the same itinerary: about an hour trekking, another hour riding an elephant, some waterfall-spotting then spending the night in a hill-tribe village. Repeat if it is a multiday tour. The tours don't always meet expectations: travellers are often disappointed by the animal welfare standards at the elephant camps and increasing urban migration from hill-tribe villages means that traditional ways are being lost.
We don’t advise prebooking in Bangkok. Instead shop around locally to find the lowest commission rates. It is also possible to go trekking in Mae Hong Son and Chiang Rai; the latter has trekking companies with an economic and educational development component.
Elephant Nature ParkELEPHANT INTERACTION
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; 
%053 818754; www.elephantnaturepark.org; 1 Th Ratchamankha; 1-/2-day tour 2500/5800B)
S
One of the first sanctuaries for rescued elephants in Chiang Mai, Elephant Nature Park has led the movement to abandon rides and shows and put elephant welfare at the top of the agenda, under the guidance of founder Sangduen (Lek) Chailert. In place of circus routines, visits are focused on interaction – the day is spent wandering with mahouts and their charges, helping feed and wash elephants.
Thai Elephant Care CenterELEPHANT INTERACTION
(%053 206247; www.thaielephantcarecenter.com; Mae Sa; half/full day 2000/3000B)
This small centre at Mae Sa, about 25km northwest of Chiang Mai, was set up to provide care for elderly elephants retired from logging camps and elephant shows. There are no rides and visitors feed the old-timers with ground grass, herb balls and bananas and help out at bath-time, as well as visiting the cemetery for elephants who have died of old age.
Chiang Mai Mountain Biking & KayakingMOUNTAIN BIKING
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %053 814207; www.mountainbikingchiangmai.com; 1 Th Samlan; tours 1250-2300B)
This specialist operator offers recommended kayaking trips on the Mae Ping and full-day guided mountain-biking tours (using imported bikes) to Doi Suthep-Pui National Park and further afield, including the popular ascent to Wat Phra That Doi Suthep.
Peak Adventure TourADVENTURE
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %053 800567; www.thepeakadventure.com; 302/4 Th Chiang Mai-Lamphun; tours 900-2500B)
The Peak offers a variety of adventure trips, including quad biking, abseiling, trekking, white-water rafting and rock climbing, as well as photography tours of Chiang Mai by săhm·lór.
Pooh Eco-TrekkingTREKKING
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %053 208538; www.pooh-ecotrekking.com; 59 Th Ratchaphakhinai; 2-day tours per person from 3500B)
The owners of this adventure-tour agency take the eco part of their name seriously, offering above-average hill-tribe treks and other adventure tours.
Vocational Training Centre of the Chiang Mai Women's Correctional InstitutionMASSAGE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %053 122340; 100 Th Ratwithi; foot/traditional massage from 150/180B; h8am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4.30pm Sat & Sun)
Offers fantastic massages performed by female inmates participating in the prison's job-training rehabilitation program. The cafe next door is a nice spot for a post-massage brew.
CCourses
Cooking
Cooking classes typically include a tour of a local market, hands-on cooking instruction and a recipe booklet. Classes are held at either an in-town location for those with limited time or at an out-of-town garden setting for more ambience.
Gap's Thai Culinary Art SchoolCOOKING
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %053 278140; www.gaps-house.com; 3 Soi 4, Th Ratchadamnoen; 1-/2-day course 900/1800B; hMon-Sat)
Affiliated with the guesthouse Gap's House, classes are held out of town at the owner's house.
Thai Farm Cooking SchoolCOOKING
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %081 288 5989; www.thaifarmcooking.com; 38 Soi 9, Th Moon Muang; course 1300B)
Teaches cooking classes at its organic farm, 17km outside of Chiang Mai; the course includes return transport from Chiang Mai.
Language
Being a university town, Chiang Mai fosters continuing education opportunities in Thai language.
Payap UniversityLANGUAGE
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %053 851478; http://ic.payap.ac.th; Th Kaew Nawarat, Kaew Nawarat Campus; Thai courses from 8000B)
A private university founded by the Church of Christ of Thailand; offers intensive Thai language courses in 60-hour modules.
American University AlumniLANGUAGE
(AUA;
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %053 214120; www.learnthaiinchiangmai.com; 73 Th Ratchadamnoen; group course 4800B)
Conducts 60-hour Thai courses, with two hours of classes daily, Monday to Friday. Private instruction is also available.
Thai Massage
Jack ChaiyaMASSAGE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %083 154 6877; www.jackchaiya.com; 74/3 Th Wiang Kaew; 3- to 5-day courses from 7000B)
Jack Chaiya was trained by his mother in jàp sên (literally 'nerve touch'), a Northern Thai massage technique akin to acupressure, and is passing on the wisdom at this small massage school near Wat Phra Singh.
Old Medicine HospitalMASSAGE
(OMH;
GOOGLE MAP
; %053 201663; www.thaimassageschool.ac.th; 78/1 Soi Siwaka Komarat, Th Wualai; courses 5000-6000B)
The government-accredited curriculum is very traditional, with two 10-day massage courses a month, as well as shorter foot and oil massage courses.
Art of MassageMASSAGE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %083 866 2901; www.artofmassage.webs.com; Soi 3, Th Loi Kroh; courses 990-2900B)
Khun Wanna gets rave reviews for her practical training sessions, limited to a maximum of two people, lasting two to three days.
Moo·ay Tai (Thai Boxing)
Lanna Muay Thai Boxing CampMARTIAL ARTS
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %053 892102; www.lannamuaythai.com; 161 Soi Chang Khian, Th Huay Kaew; day/week/month 400/2200/8000B)
Offers instruction to foreigners and Thais. The gym is famous for having trained the title-winning, transvestite boxer Parinya Kiatbusaba.
Chai Yai Muay ThaiMARTIAL ARTS
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %082 938 1364; Th Sunpiliang, Nong Hoi; day/week/month 450/1700/5000B)
This school has been training Thai and foreign fighters of all levels for 30 years. It's southeast of the city, off Rte 11 near the Chiang Mai 700 Years Park.
MEDITATION COURSES & RETREATS
The seekers and the curious often come to Thailand to explore the spiritual discipline of meditation.
The sacred city of Chiang Mai is home to Wat Suan Dok (
GOOGLE MAP
; %084 609 1357; www.monkchat.net; Th Suthep, Wat Suan Dok; 2-day retreat 500B; hTue & Wed), which conducts meditation retreats at an affiliated forest temple.
Wat Pa Nanachat (วัดป่านานาชาติ www.watpahnanachat.org; hdawn-dusk), in Ubon Ratchathani, was founded by renowned forest monk Phra Ajahn Chah. The temple is geared toward serious monastic trainees who speak English.
Thailand’s most famous retreat is run by Wat Suan Mok (www.suanmokkh-idh.org; Wat Suanmokkh), near the southern town of Chaiya. It is a forest temple founded by Ajahn Buddhadasa Bhikkhu.
You can merge your beach needs with your spiritual needs at Ko Pha-Ngan’s Wat Khao Tham (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.kowtahm.com; hdawn-dusk). Periodic meditation retreats are held by an American-Australian couple.
zFestivals & Events
Flower FestivalCULTURAL
(hearly Feb)
A riot of blooms, held over a three-day period in early February. There are flower displays, cultural performances and beauty pageants, plus a floral parade from Nawarat Bridge to Suan Buak Hat.
SongkranNEW YEAR
(hmid-Apr)
The traditional Thai New Year (13 to 15 April) is celebrated in Chiang Mai with infectious enthusiasm. Thousands of revellers line up along all sides of the moat to throw water on any passers-by in the city (and each other), while more restrained Songkran rituals are held at Wat Phra Singh.
Loi KrathongRELIGIOUS
(hOct/Nov)
Also known as Yi Peng, this lunar holiday (usually October or November) is celebrated along the Mae Ping with the launching of small lotus-shaped boats honouring the spirit of the river, and the release of thousands of illuminated lanterns into the night sky.
BURMESE MIGRANTS IN CHIANG MAI
Chiang Mai Province hosts an estimated 200,000 people who have fled from Myanmar, either as political refugees or economic migrants. Many of these workers are undocumented and are vulnerable to arrest and deportation as well as exploitation by their employers.
The following group works on issues related to displaced peoples, including education and health care.
Burma Study CenterVOLUNTEERING
(
GOOGLE MAP
; www.burmastudy.org; 302/2 Soi 13, Th Nimmanhaemin; h11.30am-8pm Mon-Fri, 11.30am-6pm Sat)
This nonprofit community centre conducts classes in English for Burmese migrants living in Thailand. Many of the students are young, low-wage workers whose education has been disrupted by political instability in Burma or personal dislocation from their home communities. It also maintains an outreach mission to educate the international community about Burmese-related issues through its lending library, book discussions and film screenings.
4Sleeping
Thanks to the boom in Chinese tourists, new accommodation is springing up all over the city. Vacancies disappear during European and Chinese holiday periods.
Most guesthouses make their ‘rice and curry’ from booking trekking tours and reserve rooms for those customers.
oGap's HouseGUESTHOUSE$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %053 278140; www.gaps-house.com; 3 Soi 4, Th Ratchadamnoen; s/d from 370/470B; 
a
W)
The overgrown garden at this old backpacker favourite is a veritable jungle, providing plenty of privacy in the relaxing communal spaces. Modest budget rooms are set in old-fashioned wooden houses, and the owner runs cooking courses and dishes up a delicious nightly vegetarian buffet. No advance reservations.
oDiva GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %053 273851; www.divaguesthouse.com; 84/13 Th Ratchaphakhinai; dm 120-180B, r 250-800B; a
iW)
An energetic spot on busy Th Ratchaphakhinai, Diva offers the full backpacker deal – dorm beds, budget box rooms, adventure tours, net access, ambient tunes and fried rice and sà·đé (grilled meat with peanut sauce) in the downstairs cafe. Accommodation ranges from dorms to family rooms and come with either fans or air-con. The same owners run Diva 2 (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %053 224648; Soi 2, Th Ratwithi; s/d from 180/220B; aW) and Diva 3 (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %093 171 6078; Soi 3, Th Ratchamankha; dm from 170B; aW).
Julie GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %053 274355; www.julieguesthouse.com; 7 Soi 5, Th Phra Pokklao; dm from 90B, r without/with bathroom from 150/220B; W)
Julie is perennially popular, though this is as much about budget as facilities. For not much more than the price of a fruit smoothie you can get a basic dorm bed, and tiny box rooms cost only a little more. In the evenings travellers congregate on the covered roof terrace.
Shakara GardenGUESTHOUSE$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %053 327535; shakaragarden@gmail.com; 51/1 Soi 4, Th Singharat; dm 150, r with fan/air-con 350/450B; aiW)
The old Aoi Garden Home has been rebranded but it still offers the same old-fashioned backpacker experience at bargain rates. Basic box rooms with mossie nets are spread across a series of wooden houses, with lots of chilled-out seating areas where travellers sit and chat. Dorms are mixed; private rooms share bathrooms.
Smile House 1GUESTHOUSE$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %053 208661; www.smilehousechiangmai.com; 5 Soi 2, Th Ratchamankha; r with fan/air-con 350/700B; aW
s
c)
There's a hint of the 1950s motel about this popular and friendly guesthouse, with a splash pool for kids and a bigger pool for grown-ups. It's very relaxed and the simply furnished rooms (with big windows) offer good value for money.
Jonadda Guest HouseGUESTHOUSE$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %053 227281; 23/1 Soi 2, Th Ratwithi; s/d fan-only 200/300B, r with air-con 800B; a)
This reliable cheapie has spotless, basic rooms, with small communal spaces at the end of each floor where you can sit with a drink of an evening.
Daret's HouseGUESTHOUSE$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %053 235440; 4/5 Th Chaiyaphum; s/d 180/240B)
The service at Daret's is as slow and ponderous as the owner's sleepy Pekingese, but you can't fault them on price. Basic rooms come at dorm-bed prices, in a handy location for the Tha Phae city gate. There's a budget restaurant downstairs.
Hostel In TownHOSTEL$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %053 234292; www.hit-thapae.com; Soi 2, Th Tha Phae; dm 220B; aW)
One of a cluster of spic-and-span backpacker hostels just east of the old city walls, 'HIT' has neat dorms with lockers, towels and a rooftop cafe. There's a women-only dorm on the 2nd floor.
SoHostelHOSTEL$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %053 206360; sohostel.chiangmai@gmail.com; 64/2 Th Loi Kroh; dm from 219B, r from 1500B; aW)
Loi Kroh is better known for girlie bars than backpacker bunks, but this huge modern hostel is a good deal, just an easy stroll from the old city and the Night Bazaar. The two-tone red-and-white dorms (with six to 12 beds) are better value than the somewhat overpriced private rooms.
Spicythai BackpackersHOSTEL$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %083 477 9467; www.spicyhostels.com; 14 Th Hutsadisawee; dm 220B; aiW)
Tucked away in the student-y district north of Th Huay Kaew, this old-fashioned backpacker joint follows the classic Southeast Asian model. Beds are in simple single-sex dorms, there's a garden with hammocks and Western movies play all day long in the communal lounge. It closes most summers from June to August to accommodate Thai students.
Bunk BoutiqueHOSTEL$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %091 859 9656; bunkboutique@hotmail.com; 8/7 Th Ratchaphuek; dm 250B, r 900B; aW)
Recently opened Bunk Boutique offers superior accommodation in four-bed dorms in a large apartment block behind Th Huay Kaew. Blond wood bunks have curtains for privacy and everyone gets a locker. You can rent a dorm as a private room if there's space.
oAwanahouseGUESTHOUSE$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %053 419005; www.awanahouse.com; 7 Soi 1, Th Ratchadamnoen; r with fan/air-con 400/650-875B; aiWsc)
The pick of the guesthouses around Pratu Tha Phae, with rooms for every budget – all kept spotless – and a mini cold-water pool under cover on the ground-floor terrace. Rooms get more comfortable and better decorated as you move up the price scale and there's a rooftop chill-out area with views across old Chiang Mai.
oArtel NimmanBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %053 213143; Soi 13, Th Nimmanhaemin; r 1350-1850B; aW)
We're suckers for hotels with slides, so the Artel delivers in spades. The modernist building is all round windows, polished concrete, geometric forms and juxtaposed materials, and the rooms are cool, calm, creative spaces. There's a dainty cafe and, as mentioned, a slide from the balcony down to the street.
Nat Len Boutique GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.natlenboutiqueguesthouse.com; 2/4 Soi Wat Chompu, Th Chang Moi; r 650-1200B; aWs)
Quirky rooms are spread over several colourful houses at this low-key guesthouse just outside the city walls. Our favourite feature is the pale blue pool with its bubbling whirlpools, and there are lots of interesting wát in the surrounding alleyways.
Thong Ran's HouseGUESTHOUSE$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %053 277307; www.thongranhouse.com; 105 Th Ratchamankha; r 900-1200B; aW)
Cartoon statues of the owners dot the compound at this motel-like guesthouse in a quiet soi off Th Ratchamankha. Rooms have some cute Thai touches, but the sliding doors and coloured bathroom tiles create a lingering 1980s vibe.
SPLURGE
Mo Rooms (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %053 280789; www.morooms.com; 263/1-2 Th Tha Phae; r from 2800B; aiWs) is designer in the urban mould, all exposed concrete and sculptural timbers juxtaposed with natural materials. Each of the Chinese-zodiac-themed rooms was decorated by a different Thai artist, ensuring some unique visions in interior decor – our top picks are 'Monkey' with its woven pod bed and 'Horse' with its surreal bed-tree.
There's a pebble-lined pool out back and an Asian fusion restaurant out front.
5Eating
Dining in Chiang Mai is homey and healthy with an emphasis on vegetarianism. The city is also well known for its covered markets. Talat Pratu Chiang Mai (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Th Bamrungburi; mains from 40B; h4am-noon & 6pm-midnight) is a busy morning market selling fresh fruit, piles of fried food and fistfuls of sticky rice. After its midday siesta, the market caters to the dinner crowd.
oPun PunVEGETARIAN$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; www.punpunthailand.org; Th Suthep, Wat Suan Dok; mains 40-75B; h8am-4pm Thu-Tue; 
v)S
Tucked away at the back of Wat Suan Dok, this student-y cafe is a great place to sample Thai vegetarian food prepared using little-known herbs and vegetables and lots of healthy whole grains grown on its concept farm, which doubles as an education centre for sustainable living.
There's a branch called Imm Aim Vegetarian Restaurant (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; 10 Th Santhitham; mains 40-75B; h10am-9pm; v) near the International Hotel Chiangmai.
oKiat OchaCHINESE, THAI$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Th Inthawarorot; mains 50-90B; h6am-3pm)
This humble Chinese-style canteen is mobbed daily by locals who can't get enough of the house kôw man gài (Hainanese-style boiled chicken). Each plate comes with soup, chilli sauce and blood pudding and the menu also includes wok-fried chicken and pork and sà·đé.
oSP ChickenNORTHERN THAI$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; 9/1 Soi 1, Th Samlan; mains 50-150B; h11am-9pm)
Chiang Mai's best chicken emerges daily from the broilers at this tiny cafe near Wat Phra Singh. The menu runs to salads and soups, but most people just pick a half (80B) or whole (150B) chicken, and dip the moist meat into the spicy, tangy Northern Thai dipping sauces provided.
Khun ChurnVEGETARIAN$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; Th Thiphanet, Old Chiang Mai Cultural Center; buffet 164B; h8am-10pm; v)
Moved to a slightly inconvenient location in the Old Chiang Mai Cultural Center (about 1km south of the old city walls on Rte 108), Khun Churn is best known for its all-you-can-eat meatless buffet (11am to 2.30pm), with dozens of dishes, salads, herbal drinks and Thai-style desserts.
Angel's SecretsINTERNATIONAL$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Soi 1, Th Ratchadamnoen; mains 90-150B; h7am-4pm Tue-Sun; Wv)
True to its name, this sweet little restaurant is shielded by a fence of greenery from peeping appetites. Inside you'll find creative and wholesome Western breakfasts, including crusty homemade bread, crêpes and omelettes, and made-to-order vegetarian Thai food.
AUM Vegetarian FoodVEGETARIAN$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; 65 Th Moon Muang; mains 80-150B; h10.30am-8.30pm; v)
One of the original health-food peddlers, AUM (pronounced 'om') attracts crowds of vegie travellers and a few vegie-curious carnivores. The menu runs from vegetable maki rolls to blue sticky rice and delicious sôm·đam (Isan-style pounded papaya salad) with cashews and carrot. They make their own mushroom-based stock.
Dada KafeVEGETARIAN$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Th Ratchamankha; mains 60-140B; h9am-9pm, to 6pm May & Jun; v)
A tiny hole in the wall that does a busy trade in vitamin-rich, tasty vegetarian health food and smoothies. Wholesome ingredients like pollen and wheatgrass are whisked into fruit shakes and the food menu includes vegie burgers, omelettes, salads, sandwiches and curries with brown rice.
Blue DiamondVEGETARIAN$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; 35/1 Soi 9, Th Moon Muang; mains 65-140B; h7am-9pm Mon-Sat; v)
Packed with fresh produce, pre-packaged spice and herb mixes and freshly baked treats, Blue Diamond feels a little like a wholefood store. The cafe offers an adventurous menu of sandwiches, salads, curries, stir-fries and curious fusion dishes such as đôm yam macaroni.
SwanBURMESE$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; 48 Th Chaiyaphum; mains 70-150B; h11am-11pm)
This worn-looking restaurant just east of the old city offers a trip across the border, with a menu of tasty Burmese dishes such as gaang hang lay (dry, sour pork curry with tamarind and peanuts). The backyard courtyard provides an escape from the moat traffic.
I-BerryDESSERTS$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; Soi 17, Th Nimmanhaemin; ice creams & smoothies from 60B; h10am-10pm; W)
Mobbed day and night, this shop selling ice-cream and fruit smoothies has star power. I-Berry is owned by Thai comedian Udom Taepanich (nicknamed 'Nose' for his signature feature). When ordering, check the menu signs and order the delicious smoothies, shakes and sundaes using their rather elaborate names.
oTong Tem TohNORTHERN THAI$$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; Soi 13, Th Nimmamnhaemin; mains 50-170B; h11am-9pm)
Set in an old teak house, this trendy cafe serves deliciously authentic Northern Thai cuisine. The menu roams beyond the usual Thai standards to local specialities such as nám prík ong (chilli paste with vegetables for dipping) and gaang hang lay (Burmese-style pork curry with peanut and tamarind).
Huen PhenNORTHERN THAI$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %053 277103; 112 Th Ratchamankha; lunch dishes 40-60B, evening mains 80-200B; h8am-3pm & 5-10pm)
This antique-cluttered restaurant cooks up some true northern magic. By day, meals are served in the canteen out front, but at night, the action moves back to the atmospheric dining room, where you can sample a full range of delicious, highly spiced jungle curries, stir-fries and regional variations on nám prík (chilli sauces with vegetables to dip).
GirasoleITALIAN$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %053 276388; Kad Klang Wiang, Th Ratchadamnoen; mains 90-260B; h11am-9pm)
In the tidy little Kad Klang Wiang arcade, Girasole makes a convincing claim to offer the city's best pizzas, prepared using real pepperoni and other hard-to-find ingredients. There are several spaces for eating, both inside and outside, and the menu runs to superior pasta dishes and secondi piatti, plus tasty gelato for dessert.
oTengokuJAPANESE$$$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %053 215801; Soi 5, Th Nimmanhaemin; mains 130-1650B; h11am-2pm & 5.30-10pm; W)
Chiang Mai loves Japanese food, but Tengoku leaves everywhere else in town in the shade of Mt Fuji. This sleekly modern restaurant serves superior sushi, yummy yakitori, spectacular sukiyaki and wonderful wagyu steaks, plus cheaper bento box set meals.
CHIANG MAI CAFES
Chiang Mai is certifiably coffee crazy, with cafes serving locally grown Arabica beans. Here are a few of our faves:
Akha Ama CafeCAFE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.akhaama.com; 9/1 Soi 3, Th Hutsadisawee, Mata Apartment; coffee from 50B; h9am-9pm; W)
Probably the best brew in Chiang Mai, Akha Ama specialises in organic, fair-trade coffee, the brainchild of an enterprising Akha who was the first in his village to graduate from college. There's a branch (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.akhaama.com; 175/1 Th Ratchadamnoen; h8am-6pm; W) on Th Ratchadamnoen in the old city.
Café de MuseumCAFE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Th Ratwithi, Lanna Folklife Museum; drinks from 40B; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 7pm Sat & Sun; W)
The perfect spot to refuel after touring the old-city museums, with a full range of stimulating hot, cold and iced brews. You can sit indoors in comfortable air-conditioning or outside on the terrace in front of the Lanna Folklife Museum.
Ristr8toCAFE
(
GOOGLE MAP
; 153/3 Th Nimmanhaemin; coffee 65-120B; h8am-7pm Wed-Mon)
In the midst of the most commercial part of Th Nimmanhaemin, this coffeshop offers a broader menu than most, with single-origin beans from across the globe and a full range of espresso-based and filtered coffees, supplied with wine-style tasting notes.
WHERE TO EAT KôW SOY
Showing its Burmese, Chinese and Shan influences, the north prefers curries that are milder and more stewlike than the coconut milk–based curries of southern and central Thailand. Sour notes are enhanced with the addition of pickled cabbage and lime. The most famous example is kôw soy, a mild chicken curry with flat egg noodles.
There are several kôw soy shops outside of the old city that are mobbed by lunchtime connoisseurs. Our favourites include the following:
Kao Soi Fueng FahNORTHERN THAI$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Soi 1, Th Charoen Phrathet; mains 40-60B; h7am-9pm)
The best of the Muslim-run kôw soy vendors along Halal St, with the choice of beef or chicken with your noodles in curry broth.
Khao Soi Lam Duan Fah HamNORTHERN THAI$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; 352/22 Th Charoenrat (Th Faham); mains from 40B; h9am-4pm)
North of the Th Ratanakosin bridge on the east bank, Th Faham is known as Chiang Mai’s kôw soy ghetto. Khao Soi Lam Duan Fah Ham is the pick of the bunch, serving delicious bowls of kôw soy to eager crowds of punters.
6Drinking & Nightlife
The ale flows fast and furious at the tourist bars in the old city. West of the old city, Th Nimmanhaemin is where Thai uni students go bar-hopping.
oRiverside Bar & RestaurantBAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.theriversidechiangmai.com; 9-11 Th Charoenrat (Th Faham); mains 130-370B; h10am-1am)
Almost everyone ends up at Riverside at some point in their stay. Set in an old teak house, it feels like a boondocks reimagining of a Hard Rock Cafe, and bands play nightly until late. Stake out a claim on the riverside terrace or the upstairs balcony to catch the evening breezes on the Mae Ping river.
Zoe In YellowBAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; 40/12 Th Ratwithi; h11am-2am)
Part of a complex of open-air bars at the corner of Th Ratchaphakhinai and Th Ratwithi, Zoe is where backpackers come to sink pitchers of cold Chang, sip cocktails from buckets, rock out to cheesy dancefloor-fillers, canoodle and swap travel stories until the wee hours.
Blar Blar BarBEER GARDEN
(
GOOGLE MAP
; Soi 5, Th Nimmanhaemin; h6pm-midnight)
A big and boozy bar popular with uni students and other youthful punters, with waitresses promoting branded beers and live music in the courtyard. Use it as a staging post before moving on to other more intimate drinking spots.
Warmup CafeCLUB
(
GOOGLE MAP
; www.facebook.com/warmupcafe1999; 40 Th Nimmanhaemin; h6pm-2am)
A Nimmanhaemin survivor, Warmup has been rocking since 1999, attracting a young, trendy and beautiful crowd as the evening wears on. Hip-hop spins in the main room, electronic beats reverberate in the lounge, and rock bands squeal out solos in the garden.
3Entertainment
oSudsananLIVE MUSIC
(
GOOGLE MAP
; off Th Huay Kaew; h6pm-midnight)
A stroll down an unlit dirt track off Th Huay Kaew will take you to a creaky wooden house full of character and music. It's primarily a local hangout, with Thais of all ages sipping whisky, chewing the fat and nodding appreciatively to performers playing tear-jerking pleng pêu·a chee·wít (songs for life).
Look for the easy-to-miss signboard just west of Th Ratchaphuek.
NabéLIVE MUSIC
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Th Wichayanon; h6pm-1am)
A happening spot for Chiang Mai twenty-somethings, with cold beers, hot snacks and rocking live bands who can actually play their instruments, singing Thai songs for a Thai audience.
7Shopping
Chiang Mai has long been an important centre for handicrafts. Th Tha Phae and the small soi near Talat Warorot are filled with interesting antique and textile stores.
oStudio NaennaCLOTHING, HOMEWARES
(
GOOGLE MAP
; www.studio-naenna.com; 22 Soi 1, Th Nimmanhaemin; h10am-6pm)
The colours of the mountains have been woven into the naturally dyed silks and cottons here, part of a project to preserve traditional weaving and embroidery. You can see the whole production process at their main workshop (
GOOGLE MAP
; www.studio-naenna.com; 138/8 Soi Chang Khian; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, also 9am-5pm Sat Oct-Mar), north of Th Huay Kaew.
Kesorn ArtsARTS & CRAFTS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; 154-156 Th Tha Phae; h9am-6pm)
The collector's best friend, this cluttered shop has been trading old bric-a-brac from the hills for years. It specialises mainly in textiles, lacquerware and jewellery.
Ethnic LannaARTS & CRAFTS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.ethniclanna.com; Th Singharat; h9am-8pm Mon-Sat)
A good selection of tribal bags, trinkets and textiles, sold on a fair-trade basis.
Backstreet BooksBOOKS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; 2/8 Th Chang Moi Kao; h8am-8pm)
Backstreet, a rambling shop along 'book alley' (Th Chang Moi Kao), has a good selection of guidebooks and stacks of crime and thriller novels.
Maya Lifestyle Shopping CenterSHOPPING CENTRE
(
GOOGLE MAP
; www.mayashoppingcenter.com; Th Huay Kaew; h11am-10pm Mon-Fri, from 10am Sat & Sun)
Chiang Mai's flashiest shopping centre hides behind a geometric facade, with all the big international brands, a whole floor of electronics, a good supermarket, multiscreen cinema and excellent eating options on the 4th floor.
8Information
Dangers & Annoyances
The majority of guesthouses in town subsidise their cheap room rates through commissions on booking trekking tours. For this reason, they might limit nontrekkers to a three-day stay, but ask at check-in.
Avoid the private bus and minivan services from Bangkok’s Th Khao San to Chiang Mai because they are full of commission-generating schemes to subsidise the cut-rate fares.
Dengue has become a major concern in Chiang Mai province, especially during the wet season. Use DEET-insect repellent throughout the day and night to avoid mosquito bites.
Emergency
Immigration OfficeIMMIGRATION
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %053 201755; http://chiangmaiimm.com; off Rte 1141 (Th Mahidol); h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri)
By the airport; handles visa extensions.
Tourist PolicePOLICE
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %053 247318, 24hr emergency 1155; 608 Rimping Plaza, Th Charoenraj; h6am-midnight)
Volunteer staff speak a variety of languages.
Medical Services
Chiang Mai Ram HospitalHOSPITAL
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %053 920300; www.chiangmairam.com; 8 Th Bunreuangrit)
The most modern hospital in town.
McCormick HospitalHOSPITAL
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %053 921777; www.mccormick.in.th; 133 Th Kaew Nawarat)
Former missionary hospital; good for minor treatments.
Money
All major Thai banks have branches and ATMs throughout Chiang Mai; many are along Th Tha Phae and Th Moon Muang.
Tourist Information
Tourism Authority of ThailandTOURIST INFORMATION
(TAT;
GOOGLE MAP
; %053 248604; www.tourismthailand.org; Th Chiang Mai-Lamphun; h8.30am-4.30pm)
English-speaking staff provide maps, and advice on travel across Thailand.
8Getting There & Away
Air
Domestic and international flights arrive and depart from Chiang Mai International Airport (
GOOGLE MAP
; %053 270222; www.chiangmaiairportthai.com), 3km southwest of the old city.
Schedules vary with the seasons and tourist demand. Thai Airways (THAI;
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %053 211044, 023 561111; www.thaiair.com; 240 Th Phra Pokklao; h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri) has the widest range of domestic routes, but Air Asia (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %053 234645; www.airasia.com; 416 Th Tha Phae; h10am-8pm) and other budget carriers are rapidly expanding domestic and international routes.
Destinations include Bangkok (1800B to 2200B), Phuket (2350B), Yangon (from 4950B), Luang Prabang (from 5000B) and Kuala Lumpur (3340B).
Bus
There are two bus stations in Chiang Mai. Arcade bus terminal ( GOOGLE MAP ; Th Kaew Nawarat), 3km northeast of town, covers long-distance destinations. From the town centre, a túk-túk should cost 80B to 100B; rót daang, about 60B. Chang Pheuak bus terminal ( GOOGLE MAP ; Th Chang Pheuak), north of the old city, handles buses to nearby provincial towns (Tha Ton); to reach the bus station catch a rót daang (20B).
BUS TRANSPORT FROM CHIANG MAI
| Destination | Price (B) | Duration (hr) | Frequency |
| Bangkok | 420-840 | 9-10 | frequent |
| Chiang Khong | 280-430 | 6½ | 3 daily |
| Chiang Rai | 140-280 | 3-4 | hourly |
| Khorat (Nakhon Ratchasima) | 580-680 | 12 | 11 daily |
| Mae Hong Son | 140-185 | 6 | every 1½hr |
| Mae Hong Son (minivan) | 250 | 5 | hourly |
| Mae Sai | 175-350 | 5 | 7 daily |
| Mae Sot | 320 | 6 | 2 daily |
| Pai | from 75 | 4 | hourly |
| Pai (minivan) | 150 | 3 | hourly |
| Sukhothai | from 230B | 5-6 | 10 daily |
Train
The train station is 2.5km east of the old city. With the rise of budget airfares and a series of derailments in 2013, the once popular overnight trains from Bangkok's Hualamphong station are less attractive. At the time of research, fares to/from Bangkok were as follows:
A2nd-class sleeper berth 531B to 581B fan, 791B to 881B air-con
A1st-class sleeper cabin 1253B to 1953B air-con
Transport to the station should cost 40B to 60B.
8Getting Around
Red sŏrng·tăa·ou (called rót daang) circulate around the city operating as shared taxis. Flag one down and tell them your destination; if they are going that way, they’ll nod and pick up other passengers along the way. The starting fare is 20B, with longer trips 40B. Túk-túk rides around town cost about 60B to 80B; negotiate the fare beforehand.
You can rent bicycles (100B to 150B a day) or 100cc motorcycles (from 200B) to explore Chiang Mai. Bicycles are a great way to get around the city.
MONK CHAT
If you're curious about Buddhism, many Chiang Mai temples offer 'monk chat', in which monks get to practise their English by fielding questions from visitors.
Wat Suan Dok has a dedicated room just beyond the main sanctuary hall and holds its chats from 5pm to 7pm, Monday to Friday. Wat Sisuphan (วัดศรีสุพรรณ
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Soi 2, Th Wualai; donations appreciated; h6am-6pm) holds its sessions from 5.30pm to 7pm just before its meditation course. Wat Chedi Luang has a table under a shade tree where monks chat from 9am to 6pm daily.
Around Chiang Mai
Doi Inthanon National Park อุทยานแห่งชาติดอยอินทนนท์
Thailand's highest peak – Doi Inthanon (often abbreviated to Doi In) – soars to 2565m above sea level, an impressive altitude for the kingdom, but a tad diminutive compared to its cousins in the Himalaya. Surrounding this granite massif is a 1000-sq-km national park (%053 286730; adult/child 300/150B, car/motorcycle 30/20B; h4am-6pm), dotted with hiking trails and waterfalls and enveloped in an impenetrable curtain of jungle. When the heat of Chiang Mai gets too much, locals decamp to Doi Inthanon for day trips, especially during the New Year holiday when there's the rarely seen phenomenon of frost at the summit.
Most visitors come with private transport or on a tour from Chiang Mai; if coming by motorcycle from Chiang Mai allow 2½ hours each way.
Mae Sa Valley Loop แม่สา
One of the easiest mountain escapes, the Mae Sa Valley loop travels from the lowlands' concrete expanse into the highlands’ forested frontier. The 100km route makes a good day trip with private transport.
Head north of Chiang Mai on Rte 107 (Th Chang Pheuak) toward Mae Rim, then left onto Rte 1096. The road becomes more rural but there’s a steady supply of tour-bus attractions: orchid farms, butterfly parks, snake farms, you name it.
The road eventually starts to climb and twist into the fertile Mae Sa Valley, once a high-altitude basin for growing opium poppies. Now the valley’s hill-tribe farmers have re-seeded their terraced fields with sweet peppers, cabbage, flowers and fruits – which are then sold to the royal agriculture projects under the Doi Kham label.
On the outskirts of the valley, the road swings around the mountain ridge and starts to rise and dip until it reaches the conifer zone. Beyond, the landscape unfolds in a cascade of mountains and eventually the road spirals down into Samoeng, a pretty Thai town, and then arcs back into Chiang Mai.
SLOW BOATS TO CHIANG RAI
Escape the daredevil highway antics of Thailand’s bus drivers with a slow ride on the Mae Nam Kok departing from Tha Ton, north of Chiang Mai. The river ride is a big hit with tourists and includes stops at hill-tribe villages that specialise in Coca-Colas and souvenirs. This isn’t uncharted territory but it is scenic and relaxing.
Chiang Rai–bound boats (%053 053727; ticket 350B; hdeparts 12.30pm) leave from Tha Ton and make stops along the way at Mae Salak, a large Lahu village, and Ban Ruam Mit, a village of mixed hill tribe groups. The trip takes three to five hours; the boat carries 12 passengers.
In order to catch the boat on time, you'll need to overnight in Tha Ton; there are several pretty riverside guesthouses, including Apple Resort (%053 373144; applethaton@yahoo.com; r 500-1200B; aW). Buses from Chiang Mai to Tha Ton leave from Chang Pheuak bus station.
You can also do the trip in reverse (from Chiang Rai to Tha Ton), a less popular option because it takes much longer. Boats disembark from Chiang Rai's CR Pier (%053 750009; h7am-4pm) in the northwest corner of town at 7am.
Adding to your indecision, you could skip the river and backdoor to Chiang Rai via the ridgetop village of Mae Salong.
Chiang Rai เชียงราย
Pop 70,000
Leafy and well groomed, Chiang Rai is more liveable than visitable. The town itself is a convenient base for touring the Golden Triangle and an alternative to Chiang Mai for arranging hill-tribe treks. Don’t assume you’ll be the only foreigner in town; Chiang Rai is well-loved by well-heeled package tourists.
Chiang Rai
2Activities, Courses & Tours
Transport
1Sights
Wat Phra KaewBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(วัดพระแก้ว
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Th Trairat; htemple 7am-7pm, museum 9am-5pm)F
Originally called Wat Pa Yia (Bamboo Forest Monastery) in the local dialect, this is the city’s most revered Buddhist temple. The main prayer hall is a medium-sized, well-preserved wooden structure. The octagonal chedi behind it dates from the late 14th century and is in typical Lanna style. The adjacent two-storey wooden building is a museum housing various Lanna artefacts.
Oub Kham MuseumMUSEUM
(พิพิธภัณฑ์อูบคำ www.oubkhammuseum.com; Th Nakhai; adult/child 300/100B; h8am-5pm)
This slightly zany museum houses an impressive collection of paraphernalia from virtually every corner of the former Lanna kingdom. The items, some of which truly are one of a kind, range from a monkey-bone food taster used by Lanna royalty to an impressive carved throne from Chiang Tung, Myanmar. It’s located 2km west of the town centre and can be a bit tricky to find; túk-túk will go here for about 60B.
Hilltribe Museum & Education CenterMUSEUM
(พิพิธภัณฑ์และศูนย์การศึกษาชาวเขา
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.pdacr.org; 3rd fl, 620/25 Th Thanalai; admission 50B; h8.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun)
This museum and cultural centre is a good place to visit before undertaking any hill-tribe trek. Run by the nonprofit Population & Community Development Association (PDA), the displays are underwhelming in their visual presentation, but contain a wealth of information on Thailand’s various tribes and the issues that surround them.
Mae Fah Luang Art & Culture ParkMUSEUM
(ไร่แม่ฟ้าหลวง www.maefahluang.org/rmfl; 313 Mu 7, Ban Pa Ngiw; adult/child 200B/free; h8am-5pm Tue-Sun)
In addition to a museum that houses one of Thailand’s biggest collections of Lanna artefacts, this vast, meticulously landscaped compound includes antique and contemporary art, Buddhist temples and other structures. It’s located about 4km west of the centre of Chiang Rai; a túk-túk or taxi here will run around 100B.
Tham Tu Pu & Buddha CaveBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(ถ้ำตูปู่/ถ้ำพระ hdawn-dusk)F
Cross the Mae Fah Luang Bridge (located just northwest of the city centre) to the northern side of Mae Nam Kok and you’ll come to a turn-off for both Tham Tu Pu and the Buddha Cave. Neither attraction is particularly amazing on its own, but the surrounding country is beautiful and would make an ideal destination for a lazy bike or motorcycle ride.
WORTH A TRIP
WAT RONG KHUN & BAAN DUM
Modern art meets religious symbolism in two of Chiang Rai's bizarre but beloved attractions.
Wat Rong KhunBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(White Temple, วัดร่องขุ่น off Rte 1/AH2; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 5.30pm Sat & Sun)F
Whereas most of Thailand’s Buddhist temples have centuries of history, Wat Rong Khun’s construction began in 1997 by noted Thai painter-turned-architect Chalermchai Kositpipat. Seen from a distance, the temple appears to be made of glittering porcelain; a closer look reveals that the appearance is due to a combination of whitewash and clear-mirrored chips. It’s located about 13km south of Chiang Rai. To get here, hop on one of the regular buses that run from Chiang Rai to Chiang Mai or Phayao (20B).
Baan DumMUSEUM
(บ้านดำ, Black House off Rte 1/AH2; h9am-noon & 1-5pm)F
The bizarre brainchild of Thai National Artist Thawan Duchanee, and a rather sinister counterpoint to Wat Rong Khun, Baan Dum unites several structures, most of which are stained black and ominously decked out with animal pelts and bones. It’s located 13km north of Chiang Rai in Nang Lae; any Mae Sai–bound bus will drop you off here for around 20B.
2Activities
Most two-day tours (starting at 2900B) typically cover the areas of Doi Tung, Doi Mae Salong or Chiang Khong. The following are primarily nonprofit community development organisations working in hill-tribe communities that use trekking as an awareness campaign and fundraiser.
Mirror FoundationTREKKING
(%053 737 616; www.thailandecotour.org)
Although its rates are higher, trekking with this nonprofit NGO helps support the training of its local guides. Treks range from one to three days and traverse the Akha, Karen and Lahu villages of Mae Yao District, north of Chiang Rai.
PDA Tours & TravelTREKKING
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %053 740 088; www.pda.or.th/chiangrai/package_tour.htm; Hilltribe Museum & Education Center, 3rd fl, 620/25 Th Thanalai; h8.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun)
One- to three-day treks are available through this NGO. Profits go back into community projects that include HIV/AIDS education, mobile health clinics, education scholarships and the establishment of village-owned banks.
Rai Pian KarunaTREKKING
(%082 195 5645; www.facebook.com/raipiankaruna)
This new, community-based social enterprise conducts one- and multiday treks and homestays at Akha, Lahu and Lua villages in Mae Chan, north of Chiang Rai. Other activities, from weeklong volunteering stints to cooking courses, are also on offer.
4Sleeping
Baan Bua Guest HouseGUESTHOUSE$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %053 718 880; www.baanbua-guesthouse.com; 879/2 Th Jetyod; r 250-550B; aiW)
This quiet guesthouse consists of a strip of 11 bright green rooms surrounding an inviting garden. Rooms are simple, but unanimously clean and cosy.
FUN-D HostelHOSTEL$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %053 712 123; www.facebook.com/FunDHostelChiangRai; 753 Th Phahonyothin; dm 260-290B, r 800B, all incl breakfast; aiW)
A lively-feeling hostel located, appropriately, above a restaurant-bar-cafe. Dorms are spacious and bright, and range from six to eight beds, the more expensive of which have semi-private, en suite bathroom facilities.
The NorthHOTEL$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %053 719 873; www.thenorth.co.th; 612/100-101 Sirikon Market; dm 200B, r 390-490B; aiW)
This hotel has provided the drab market/bus station area with a bit of colour. The 15 rooms here combine both Thai and modern design, some attached to inviting chill-out areas.
Baan WarabordeeHOTEL$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %053 754 488; baanwarabordee@hotmail.com; 59/1 Th Sanpanard; r 500-600B; aW)
A handsome, good-value hotel has been made from this three-storey Thai villa. Rooms are decked out in dark woods and light cloths, and are equipped with air-con, fridge and hot water.
Moon & Sun HotelHOTEL$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %053 719 279; 632 Th Singhaclai; r 500-600B, ste 800B; aW)
Bright and sparkling clean, this little hotel offers large, modern, terrific-value rooms. Some feature four-poster beds, while all come with desk, cable TV and refrigerator. Suites have a separate, spacious sitting area.
oBamboo Nest de Chiang RaiGUESTHOUSE$$
(%09 5686 4755, 08 9953 2330; www.bamboonest-chiangrai.com; bungalows incl breakfast 800-1800B)
The Lahu village that’s home to this unique accommodation is only 23km from Chiang Rai but feels a world away. Bamboo Nest takes the form of simple but spacious bamboo huts perched on a hill overlooking tiered rice fields. The only electricity is provided by solar panels, so leave your laptops in town and instead take part in activities that range from birdwatching to hiking.
Bamboo Nest is located about 2km from the headquarters of Lamnamkok National Park; free transport to/from Chiang Rai is available for those staying two nights or more.
5Eating
oLung EedNORTHERN THAI$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; Th Watpranorn; mains 40-100B; h11.30am-9pm Mon-Sat)
One of Chiang Rai’s most delicious dishes is available at this simple shophouse restaurant. There’s an English-language menu on the wall, but don’t miss the sublime Lap kai (minced chicken fried with local spices and topped with crispy deep-fried chicken skin, shallots and garlic). The restaurant is on Th Watpranorn about 150m east of Rte 1/AH2.
Paa SukNORTHERN THAI$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; Th Sankhongnoi, no roman-script sign; mains 10-25B; h8.30am-3pm)
Paa Suk does big, rich bowls of kà·nŏm jeen nám ngée·o (a broth of pork or beef and tomatoes served over fresh rice noodles). The restaurant is between Soi 4 and Soi 5 of Th Sankhongnoi (the street is called Th Sathanpayabarn where it intersects with the southern end Th Phahonyothin); look for the yellow sign.
Khao Soi Phor JaiTHAI$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Th Jetyod, no roman-script sign; mains 35-60B; h7.30am-5pm)
Phor Jai serves mild but tasty bowls of the eponymous curry noodle dish, as well as a few other northern Thai staples. Look for the open-air shophouse with the blue interior.
Phu LaeTHAI$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; 673/1 Th Thanalai; mains 80-320B; h11.30am-3pm & 5.30-11pm)
This air-conditioned restaurant is popular with Thai tourists for its tasty but somewhat gentrified northern Thai fare. Recommended local dishes include the gaang hang·lair (pork belly in a rich Burmese-style curry) served with cloves of pickled garlic and sâi òo·a (herb-packed pork sausages).
6Drinking
Th Jetyod is Chiang Rai's bar strip thanks to popular Cat Bar (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; 1013/1 Th Jetyod; h5pm-1am) and Easy House (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; cnr Th Jetyod & Th Pemavipat; h5pm-midnight).
BaanChivitMai BakeryCAFE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.baanchivitmai.com; Th Prasopsook; h8am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat & Sun; W)
In addition to a proper cup of joe made from local beans, you can snack on surprisingly authentic Swedish-style sweets and Western-style meals and sandwiches at this popular bakery. Profits go to BaanChivitMai, an organisation that runs homes and education projects for vulnerable, orphaned or AIDS-affected children.
7Shopping
oWalking StreetMARKET
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Th Thanalai; h4-10pm Sat)
If you’re in town on a Saturday evening be sure not to miss the open-air Walking Street, an expansive street market focusing on all things Chiang Rai, from handicrafts to local dishes. The market spans Th Thanalai from the Hilltribe Museum to the morning market.
Night BazaarMARKET
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; off Th Phahonyothin; h6-11pm)
Adjacent to the bus station off Th Phahonyothin is Chiang Rai’s night market. On a much smaller scale than the one in Chiang Mai, it is nevertheless an OK place to find an assortment of handicrafts and touristy souvenirs.
Thanon Khon MuanMARKET
(
GOOGLE MAP
; Th Sankhongnoi; h6-9pm Sun)
Come Sunday evening, the stretch of Th Sankhongnoi from Soi 2 heading west is closed to traffic, and in its place are vendors selling clothes, handicrafts and local food. Th Sankhongnoi is called Th Sathanpayabarn where it intersects with the southern end Th Phahonyothin.
8Information
Banks can be found along Th Thanalai and along Th Phahonyothin. Internet access is readily available for about 30B.
Overbrook HospitalHOSPITAL
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %053 711 366; www.overbrook-hospital.com; Th Singhaclai)
English is spoken at this modern hospital.
Tourism Authority of ThailandTOURIST INFORMATION
(TAT;
GOOGLE MAP
; %053 744 674, nationwide 1672; tatchrai@tat.or.th; Th Singhaclai; h8.30am-4.30pm)
English is limited, but staff here do their best to give advice and can provide a small selection of maps and brochures.
Tourist PolicePOLICE
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %053 740 249, nationwide 1155; Th Uttarakit; h24hr)
English is spoken and police are on stand-by around the clock.
8Getting There & Away
Chiang Rai International Airport (Mae Fah Luang International Airport; %053 798000; www.chiangraiairportonline.com) is 8km north of town. Air Asia (%053 793 543, nationwide 02 515 9999; www.airasia.com; Chiang Rai International Airport; h8am-9pm), Nok Air (%053 793000, nationwide 1318; www.nokair.co.th; Chiang Rai International Airport; h8am-7pm) and Thai Lion Air (%nationwide 02 529 9999; www.lionairthai.com; Chiang Rai International Airport; h8am-8pm) fly to Bangkok's Don Muang and Thai Airways International (THAI; %0 5379 8202, nationwide 0 2356 1111; www.thaiair.com; h8am-8pm) and Thai Smile (%053 798200, nationwide 02 118 8888; www.thaismileair.com; Chiang Rai International Airport; h8am-8pm) fly to Suvarnabhumi. China Eastern (%nationwide 02 636 6980; www.flychinaeastern.com; h8.30am-5pm) flies to Kunming. From town, a metered taxi will cost 120B.
Chiang Rai’s inter-provincial bus station (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %053 715952; Th Prasopsook) is in the heart of town; it also has ordinary (fan) buses and minivans. The long-distance bus station (%053 773989) is 5km south of town on Hwy 1. Sŏrng·tăa·ou link the two stations (15B).
Chiang Rai is accessible by boat along Mae Nam Kok from Tha Ton, the northern tip of Chiang Mai province.
TRANSPORT FROM CHIANG RAI
| Destination | Air | Bus | Minivan |
| Bangkok | 2135-3590B, 1¼hr, 5 daily | 493-935B, 13hr, frequent 7am-7pm | |
| Chiang Khong | 65B, 2hr, frequent 6am-5pm | ||
| Chiang Mai | 144-288B, 3-7hr, hourly 6.30am-7.30pm | ||
| Chiang Saen | 39B, 1½hr; frequent 6.20am-7pm | 45B, 1½hr, hourly | |
| Kunming (China) | 7500B, 1hr, 3 weekly | ||
| Nakhon Ratchasima (Khorat) | 514-771B, 12-13hr, 6 daily | ||
| Luang Prabang (Laos) | 950B, 16hr, 1pm | ||
| Mae Sai | 39B, 1½hr, frequent 6am-8pm | 46B, 1½hr, frequent 6.30am-6pm | |
| Mae Sot | 384-493B, 12hr, 8.15am & 8.45am | ||
| Phitsanulok | 273-410B, 6-7hr, hourly 6.30am-10.30pm | ||
| Sukhothai | 300B, 8hr, hourly 7.30am-2.30pm |
GETTING TO MYANMAR: MAE SAI TO TACHILEIK
Getting to the border The Thai immigration office (
GOOGLE MAP
; %053 733261; Th Phahonyothin; h6.30am-9pm) at the Mae Sai/Tachileik border is just before the bridge over the Mae Nam Sai in the centre of town. Travellers have reported that the duration of Thai visa exemptions are subject to the discretion of the immigration official.
At the border If you're approaching from Thailand and haven't already obtained a Myanmar visa, it's relatively straightforward to cross to Tachileik for the day and slightly more complicated to get a two-week visa and permission to visit Kyaingtong and/or Mong La.
Proceed through the Thai immigration office and on to the Myanmar immigration office, where you will receive a day pass (500B). Your passport will be kept at the office. The border town of Tachileik looks a lot like Mae Sai, except with more teashops and Burmese restaurants (go figure).
Moving on If you are headed to Kyaingtong and/or Mong La, on the Chinese border, proceed directly to the Myanmar Travels & Tours (MTT) office. There, you'll inform the authorities exactly where you're headed and provide three photos and US$10 or 500B for a border pass valid for 14 days. Your passport will be kept at the border, and you're expected to exit Myanmar at Tachileik. It's also obligatory to hire a guide (1000B per day plus 400B guiding fee) and to provide for their accommodation and food. If you haven't already arranged a guide beforehand, you'll be assigned one by MTT. Recommended guides include Leng (%+95 9490 31470; sairoctor.htunleng@gmail.com) and Freddie (Sai Yot; %+95 9490 31934; yotkham@gmail.com).
Buses bound for Kyaingtong (K10,000, five hours, 8am to 8.30am and 11.30am to 12.30pm) depart from Tachileik’s bus station. Or charter a taxi (K65,000) or catch a share taxi (K15,000 or K20,000). For information on doing this crossing in reverse, see here.
Golden Triangle
The three-country border between Thailand, Myanmar and Laos forms the legendary Golden Triangle, once a mountainous frontier where the opium poppy was a cash crop for the region’s ethnic minorities. Thailand has successfully stamped out its cultivation through infrastructure projects, crop-substitution programs and aggressive law enforcement. But the porous border and lawless areas of the neighbouring countries have switched production to the next generation’s drug of choice: methamphetamine and, to a lesser extent, heroin. Much of this illicit activity is invisible to the average visitor and the region’s heyday as the leading opium producer is now marketed as a tourist attraction.
Mae Sai แม่สาย
Pop 22,000
Thailand’s northernmost town is a busy trading post for gems, jewellery, cashews and lacquerware, and is also a legal border crossing into Myanmar. Many travellers make the trek here to extend their Thai visa or to dip their toes into Myanmar. The town is also a convenient base for exploring the surrounding Golden Triangle area.
Most guesthouses line the street along the Mae Nam Sai to the left of the border checkpoint. Maesai Guest House (
GOOGLE MAP
; %053 732021; 688 Th Wiengpangkam; bungalows 200-600B; W) has a collection of A-frame bungalows with varying amenities. Afterglow (%053 734188; www.afterglowhostel.com; 139/5 Th Phahonyothin; r 500-800B, bungalows 500B, all incl breakfast; aW) is injecting Mae Sai with a hipster scene. Mom Home (
GOOGLE MAP
; %053 731537; haritchayahana@gmail.com; off Th Sailomjoy; r 300-500B; aW) is a shiny newcomer.
Mae Sai has a night market (
GOOGLE MAP
; Th Phahonyothin; mains 30-60B; h5-11pm) with an excellent mix of Thai and Chinese dishes. Bismillah Halal Food (
GOOGLE MAP
; Soi 4, Th Phahonyothin; mains 30-100B; h5am-5pm) does an excellent biryani.
The bus station (%053 646403; Rte 110) is 4km from the immigration office. Destinations include Bangkok (519B to 980B, 12 hours, frequent), Chiang Mai (144B to 288B, five hours, nine departures), Chiang Rai (39B, 1½ hours, frequent) and Tha Ton (92B, two hours, 8am and 2pm).
On Th Phahonyothin by Soi 8 there’s a bus stop from which sŏrng·tăa·ou run to Sop Ruak (50B, frequent) and terminate in Chiang Saen (50B). Sŏrng·tăa·ou around town cost 15B.
Mae Salong แม่ สลอง
Pop 20,000
Built along the spine of a mountain, Mae Salong is more like a remote Chinese village in Yunnan than a Thai town. It was originally settled by the 93rd Regiment of the Kuomintang Nationalist Party (KMT), which fled from China after the 1949 revolution. The ex-soldiers and political exiles initially settled in Myanmar but later were forced to Thailand, where they supported themselves as middlemen between the opium growers and the opium warlords. The modern-day descendants still carry on the language and traditions (minus the profession) of their forefathers: Chinese is more frequently spoken here than Thai and the land’s severe incline boasts tidy terraces of tea and coffee plantations.
An all-day market , at the southern end of town, provides the bustling entertainment of commerce. Local guesthouses organise hill-tribe treks.
Shin Sane Guest House (%053 765026; www.maesalong-shinsane.blogspot.com; r 100B, bungalows 300B; iW) is Mae Salong’s original guesthouse, boasting the standards and prices of decades past. Little Home Guesthouse (%053 765389; www.maesalonglittlehome.com; bungalows 800B; iW) has a nice collection of bungalows near the market intersection. Local Yunnanese restaurants, such as Salema Restaurant (mains 30-250B; h7am-8pm), attract plenty of Thai tourists.
Probably the easiest way to get to Mae Salong is to take a bus to Mae Chan and catch a green sŏrng·tăa·ou to Mae Salong (60B, half-hourly from 7.30am to 4.30pm). You can charter one for around 700B. It’s also possible to take a Mae Sai–bound bus to Ban Pasang, from where blue sŏrng·tăa·ou head up the mountain to Mae Salong only when full (60B, one hour, 6am to 5pm).
You can also reach Mae Salong by road from Tha Ton (60B, one hour, every two hours from 8am to 2pm).
Chiang Saen เชียงแสน
Pop 11,000
A sedate river town, Chiang Saen is famous in the Thai history books as the 7th-century birthplace of the Lanna kingdom, which later moved to Chiang Mai. Today, huge river barges from China moor in town, reviving an old interior Asian trade route.
You can wander around the kingdom's ruins at Wat Pa Sak (วัดป่าสัก
GOOGLE MAP
; off Rte 1290; historical park admission 50B; h8.30am-4.30pm Wed-Sun), about 200m from Pratu Chiang Saen, along with other ruins scattered throughout town. Or survey the artefacts at Chiang Saen National Museum (พิพิธภัณฑสถานแห่งชาติเชียงแสน
GOOGLE MAP
; 702 Th Phahonyothin; admission 100B; h8.30am-4.30pm Wed-Sun).
An easy day trip from Chiang Saen is the ‘official’ centre of the Golden Triangle, Sop Ruak, an odd souvenir and museum stop for package tourists. The House of Opium (บ้านฝิ่น Rte 1290; admission 50B; h7am-7pm), across from the giant Buddha statue known as Phra Chiang Saen Si Phaendin, has historical displays pertaining to opium culture. Another drug-themed museum is the Hall of Opium (หอฝิ่น Rte 1290; adult/child 200B/free; h8.30am-4pm Tue-Sun), 1km south of town opposite the Anantara Resort & Spa. Sop Ruak is accessible from Chiang Saen via Mekong River Trips (
GOOGLE MAP
; %08 5392 4701; Th Rimkhong; h8am-5pm), for 600/700B one way/return per boat (five passengers). Or you can catch a sŏrng·tăa·ou (20B, frequent 8am to 1pm).
Sleeping options in Chiang Saen include Jay Nay (
GOOGLE MAP
; %08 1960 7551; Th Nhongmoon, no roman-script sign; r 350-400B; aW) and Sa Nae Charn Guest House (
GOOGLE MAP
; %053 651138; 641 Th Nhongmoon; r 250-450B; aW). Riverside Food Vendors (
GOOGLE MAP
; Th Rimkhong; mains 30-60B; h4-11pm) set up in the dry months. There are also evening food vendors (
GOOGLE MAP
; Th Phahonyothin; mains 30-60B; h4-10pm) and a Walking Street (
GOOGLE MAP
; Th Rimkhong; mains 20-60B; h4-9pm Sat).
Chiang Saen has a covered bus terminal at the eastern end of Th Phahonyothin. Destinations include Chiang Rai (37B, 1½ hours, frequent) and Chiang Mai (222B, five hours, 9am). Sŏrng·tăa·ou go to Mae Sai (50B) and Hat Bai (50B, where you'll transfer to Chiang Khong).
Chiang Khong เชียงของ
Pop 12,000
Remote yet lively Chiang Khong is historically important as a market town for local hill tribes and for trade with northern Laos. Travellers pass through en route to Laos and southern China.
4Sleeping
Funky BoxHOSTEL$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %08 2765 1839; Soi 2, Th Sai Klang; dm 100B; aW)
Pretty much what the name suggests: a box-like structure holding 16 dorm beds. And rest assured that it’s funky in the good sense of the word.
Namkhong ResortHOTEL$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %053 791055; 94/2 Th Sai Klang; r 200-1000B; aWs)
Just off the main drag is this semi-secluded compound of tropical plants and handsome wood structures. Even the fan-cooled, shared-bathroom cheapies are charming, and the swimming pool is an added bonus.
Baan-Fai Guest HouseGUESTHOUSE$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %053 791394; 108 Th Sai Klang; r 200-800B; aW)
A renovation has this inviting wooden house looking better than ever. The eight rooms in the main structure have air-con and en suite bathrooms, while the newer rooms are fan-cooled and share bathroom facilities; all are linked to an attached cafe.
5Eating
Street eats can be found at the twice-weekly Walking Street (
GOOGLE MAP
; Th Sai Klang; mains 30-60B; h6-10pm Wed & Sat, Nov-May).
Khao Soi Pa OrnTHAI$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; Soi 6, Th Sai Klang, no roman-script sign; mains 30-40B; h8am-4pm)
You may think you know kôw soy, the famous northern curry noodle soup, but the version served in Chiang Khong forgoes the curry broth and replaces it with clear soup topped with a rich, spicy minced pork mixture. Several non-noodle dishes are also available.
Bamboo Mexican HouseINTERNATIONAL$$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; Th Sai Klang; mains 70-250B; h7.30am-8.30pm; v)
Run by the manager of a now-defunct guesthouse who learned to make Mexican dishes from her American and Mexican guests. To be honest, though, we never got past the coffee and tasty homemade breads and cakes. Opens early, and boxed lunches can be assembled for the boat ride to Luang Prabang.
8Getting There & Away
Chiang Khong has no central bus terminal; buses stop at various points near the market, south of the town centre. If you’re going to Bangkok, buy tickets at Sombat Tour (
GOOGLE MAP
; %053 791644; Rte 1020). If you’re bound for Chiang Saen, take a sŏrng·tăa·ou to Ban Hat Bai (50B, one hour, around 8am) from a stall on Th Sai Klang.
Nok Air offers minivan transfer to/from Chiang Khong via the airport in Chiang Rai, about two hours away.
BUS TRANSPORT FROM CHIANG KHONG
| Destination | Fare (B) | Duration (hr) | Frequency |
| Bangkok | 650-1019 | 13 | 7am, 7.25am & frequent departures 3pm-4pm |
| Chiang Mai | 279-434 | 6-7 | 7.15am, 9.45am & 10.30am |
| Chiang Rai | 65-126 | 2½ | hourly 5am-3pm |
GETTING TO LAOS: NORTHERN BORDERS
CHIANG RAI TO HUAY XAI
The Chiang Khong/Huay Xai crossing is the most popular crossing for Chiang Mai–Luang Prabang (Laos) travellers. Since the completion of the Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge 4, the boat crossing is only for locals.
Getting to the Border The bridge is 10km south of Chiang Khong, a 150B săhm·lór ride from town.
At the Border After passing through the Thai immigration office (
GOOGLE MAP
; %053 792824; h7am-8.30pm), board the shuttle bus (from 20B) to Lao immigration, where visas are available on arrival.
Moving On On the Lao side, săhm·lór charge 100B (25,000K) per person to Huay Xai. Destinations from Huay Xai's bus station include the major Laos destinations as well as southern China (though Chinese visas need to be arranged beforehand).
There is also a slow boat (1000B/250,000K, two days, departs around 10.30am) to Luang Prabang and a noisy fast boat (350,000K, six to seven hours, frequent departures from 9am to 11am). There have been reports of accidents. Ticket agents in Chiang Khong can make bookings and arrange transport. For information on doing this crossing in reverse, see here.
PHRAE/NAN TO HONGSA
The Ban Huay Kon/Muang Ngeun border crossing is 140km north of Nan, which is somewhat off the beaten track. Transport originates in Phrae, which is a little less off the track.
Getting to the border To Ban Huay Kon, minivans start in Phrae and stop in Nan (100B, three hours, five daily from 5am to 9.30am).
At the border After passing the Thai immigration booth, foreigners can purchase a 30-day visa for Laos; prices are based on nationality and surcharges may apply.
Moving on Proceed 2.5km to the Lao village of Muang Ngeun. Sŏrng·tăa·ou leave from the passenger car station beside the market for Hongsa (40,000K, 1½ hours, between 2pm and 4pm). For information on doing this crossing in reverse, see here.