Thailand

%66 / Pop 68.65 million

Why Go?

Thailand is an abundant land with naturally good looks and warm hospitality. A stunning coastline lapped at by cerulean seas invites winter-weary travellers, while the northern mountains that cascade into the misty horizon invite scenic journeys. In between are emerald-coloured rice fields and busy, prosperous cities built around sacred temples. The markets are piled high with pyramids of colourful fruits and tasty treats can be found on every corner.

You'll suffer few travelling hardships, save for a few pushy touts, in this land of comfort and convenience. Bangkok reigns as an Asian superstar, Chiang Mai excels in liveability and the tropical islands are up all night to party. It is relatively cheap to hop around by plane or leapfrog anywhere else in the region, though once you leave you'll miss the fiery curries and simple stir-fries that earn Thai cuisine global acclaim.

When to Go?

ANov–Feb Cool and dry season; peak tourist season is December to January.

AMar–Jun Hot season is hot but a good shoulder season for the beaches.

AJul–Oct Wet season begins with a drizzle and ends with a downpour; July to August is a mini high season.

Best for Regional Specialities

A nahm

A Tong Tem Toh

A Hua Hin Koti

Best Places for Cultural Connections

A Cooking courses in Chiang Mai

A Loi Krathong in Ayuthaya

A Trekking in Mae Hong Son

Don’t Miss

Seeing the early-morning alms route – when barefoot, orange-robed monks walk the streets collecting food from the faithful – is one of the great highlights (made easy when suffering from jet-lag) in Thailand. The silent procession transforms Thailand’s otherwise deafening cities into calm, meditative spaces.

ITINERARIES

ONE WEEK

Get tussled about by Bangkok’s chaos, then cruise up to Sukhothai to tour the quiet old ruins. Continue north to Chiang Mai, an easygoing cultural city. Climb up the mountain range to Pai for mountain scenery and bluesy late-nighters.

TWO WEEKS

From Bangkok, head south to the Samui islands (Ko Samui, Ko Pha-Ngan, Ko Tao) to become a certified beachaholic and diver. Then hop the peninsula to the Andaman beaches of Railay, Ko Phi-Phi and Ko Lanta.

Essential Food

APàt gàprow gài Fiery stir-fry of chopped chicken, chillies, garlic and fresh basil.

AKôw pàt Fried rice, you never knew it could be so good; garnish it with ground chillies, sugar, fish sauce and a squirt of lime.

APàt prík tai krà-thiam gài/mŏo Stir-fried chicken or pork with black pepper and garlic.

APàt tai Thailand’s oh-so-famous dish of rice noodles fried with egg and prawns garnished with bean sprouts, peanuts and chillies; eaten with chopsticks.

APàt pàk kanáh Stir-fried Chinese greens, often fried with a meat (upon request), served over rice; simple but delicious.

At A Glance

ACurrency Baht (B)

ALanguage Thai

AMoney ATMs widespread; 150B withdrawal fee on foreign accounts

AVisas 30-day free visa for air arrivals; 30- or 15-day free visa (depending on nationality) for land arrivals; pre-arrange 60-day tourist visas

AMobile phones Affordable pre-paid local SIM card on a GMS phone

Fast Facts

AArea 513,000 sq km

ACapital Bangkok

ACountry code 66

AEmergency 191

Exchange Rates

Australia	A$1	26B
Cambodia	10,000r	88B
Euro	€1	39B
Laos	10,000K	44B
Malaysia	RM10	83B
UK	UK£1	55B
US	US$1	35B

Daily Costs

ABasic room US$11–28

AMarket meals US$1.50–2.50

ABeer US$3

ALocal transport US$1

Entering the Country

Fly to Bangkok's Suvarnabhumi Airport. Popular land crossings include Poipet/Aranya Prathet (Cambodia), Huay Xai/ Chiang Khong (Laos) and Ko Lipe/Langkawi (Malaysia).

Thailand Highlights

1 Joining the crowds and the chaos in hyperactive Bangkok.

2 Overdosing on sunsets on Ko Pha-Ngan.

3 Getting dive certified on Ko Tao.

4 Learning to cook like a Thai auntie in Chiang Mai.

5 Pedalling around the ruined capital of Sukhothai.

6 Crawling around with the critters in Khao Yai National Park.

7 Trekking to the remote villages around Mae Hong Son.

8 Hanging out with the Mekong River in charming Nong Khai.

9 Eating like royalty in Hua Hin.

a Scaling the limestone cliffs of Railay.

Bangkok

Pop 9.6 million

Bored in Bangkok? You’ve got to be kidding. This high-energy city loves neon and noise, chaos and concrete, fashion and the future. But look beyond the modern behemoth and you’ll find an old-fashioned village napping in the shade of a narrow soi (lane). It’s an urban connoisseur’s dream: a city where the past, present and future are jammed into a humid pressure cooker.

You’ll probably pass through Bangkok en route to some place else as it is a convenient transport hub. At first you'll be confounded, then relieved and pampered when you return, and slightly sentimental when you depart for the last time.

Central Bangkok

1Sights

1Bangkokian MuseumB6

2Dusit Palace ParkB2

3Soy Sauce FactoryB6

4Talat MaiB5

5Wat Traimit (Golden Buddha)B5

4Sleeping

6Boxpackers HostelD4

7ETZzz HostelE6

8Fusion SuitesF5

9HQ HostelD6

10Loftel 22B5

11Lub*dC6

12Pause HostelG6

13SaphaipaeC7

14Siam ClassicB5

15Silom Art HostelC6

16Suk 11F5

17Urban HouseD6

5Eating

18Bo.lanH6

19Chennai KitchenC6

20Daniel ThaigerF5

21GokfayuenH6

22Muslim RestaurantB6

23nahmD6

24Nai Mong Hoi ThodB5

25Nasir Al-MasriF5

26Nay HongB4

27Never Ending SummerB6

28Pier 21F5

29Royal IndiaA5

30SamsaraB5

31Soul Food MahanakornH6

6Drinking & Nightlife

32BalconyD6

33GreaseH6

34Iron FairiesH5

35Route 66G4

36Sky BarB7

37Studio LamH6

Telephone PubD6

38Tep BarB5

39WTFH6

7Shopping

40Patpong Night MarketD6

41Terminal 21F5

8Information

42Australian EmbassyD6

43Bangkok Christian HospitalD6

44Bumrungrad International HospitalF4

45Canadian EmbassyD6

46Chinese EmbassyG3

47Danish EmbassyE6

48French EmbassyB6

49German EmbassyE6

50Indian EmbassyG5

51Israeli EmbassyF5

52Japanese EmbassyE6

53Malaysian EmbassyD6

54Myanmar EmbassyC7

55Philippine EmbassyG6

56Tourism Authority of ThailandF4

Transport

57Eastern Bus TerminalH7

1Sights

The country’s most historic and holy sites are found in Ko Ratanakosin, the former royal district. To soak up Bangkok’s urban atmosphere, wander around Chinatown. And to escape the heat and congestion, explore Mae Nam Chao Phraya, especially around sunset.

Ko Ratanakosin & Around

With its royal and religious affiliations, this area hosts many Thai Buddhist pilgrims as well as foreign sightseers.

The temples with royal connections enforce a strict dress code – clothes should cover to the elbows and knees and foreigners should not wear open-toed shoes. Behave respectfully and remove shoes when instructed. Do your touring early in the morning to avoid the heat and the crowds. And ignore anyone who says that the sight is closed.

oWat Phra Kaew & Grand PalaceBUDDHIST TEMPLE

(วัดพระแก้ว, พระบรมมหาราชวัง MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th Na Phra Lan; admission 500B; h8.30am-3.30pm; fChang Pier, Maharaj Pier, Phra Chan Tai Pier)F

Also known as the Temple of the Emerald Buddha, Wat Phra Kaew is the colloquial name of the vast, fairy-tale compound that also includes the former residence of the Thai monarch, the Grand Palace.

This ground was consecrated in 1782, the first year of Bangkok rule, and is today Bangkok's biggest tourist attraction and a pilgrimage destination for devout Buddhists and nationalists. The 94.5-hectare grounds encompass more than 100 buildings that represent 200 years of royal history and architectural experimentation.

oWat PhoBUDDHIST TEMPLE

(วัดโพธิ์/วัดพระเชตุพน, Wat Phra Chetuphon MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th Sanam Chai; admission 100B; h8.30am-6.30pm; fTien Pier)

You'll find (slightly) fewer tourists here than at Wat Phra Kaew, but Wat Pho is our fave among Bangkok's biggest sights. In fact, the compound incorporates a host of superlatives: the city's largest reclining Buddha, the largest collection of Buddha images in Thailand and the country's earliest centre for public education.

Almost too big for its shelter is Wat Pho's highlight, the genuinely impressive Reclining Buddha.

oWat ArunBUDDHIST TEMPLE

(วัดอรุณฯ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.watarun.net; off Th Arun Amarin; admission 50B; h8am-6pm; fcross-river ferry from Tien Pier)

After the fall of Ayuthaya, King Taksin ceremoniously clinched control here on the site of a local shrine and established a royal palace and a temple to house the Emerald Buddha. The temple was renamed after the Indian god of dawn (Aruna) and in honour of the literal and symbolic founding of a new Ayuthaya.

At time of research, the spire of Wat Arun was closed until 2016 due to renovation. Visitors can enter the compound, but cannot climb the tower.

Amulet MarketMARKET

(ตลาดพระเครื่องวัดมหาธาตุ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th Maha Rat; h7am-5pm; fChang Pier, Maharaj Pier, Phra Chan Tai Pier)

This arcane and fascinating market claims both the footpaths along Th Maha Rat and Th Phra Chan, as well as a dense network of covered market stalls that run south from Phra Chan Pier; the easiest entry point is clearly marked Trok Maha That. The trade is based around small talismans carefully prized by collectors, monks, taxi drivers and people in dangerous professions.

Museum of SiamMUSEUM

(สถาบันพิพิธภัณฑ์การเรียนรู้แห่งชาติ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.museumsiam.org; Th Maha Rat; admission 300B; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun; c; fTien Pier)

This fun museum employs a variety of media to explore the origins of the Thai people and their culture. Housed in a European-style 19th-century building that was once the Ministry of Commerce, the exhibits are presented in a contemporary, engaging and interactive fashion not typically found in Thailand's museums. They are also refreshingly balanced and entertaining, with galleries dealing with a range of questions about the origins of the nation and its people.

National MuseumMUSEUM

(พิพิธภัณฑสถานแห่งชาติ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 4 Th Na Phra That; admission 200B; h9am-4pm Wed-Sun; fChang Pier, Maharaj Pier, Phra Chan Tai Pier)

Often touted as Southeast Asia's biggest museum, Thailand's National Museum is home to an impressive, albeit occasionally dusty, collection of items, best appreciated on one of the museum's twice-weekly guided tours ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; National Museum, 4 Th Na Phra That; free with museum admission; h9.30am Wed & Thu; fChang Pier, Maharaj Pier).

Most of the museum's structures were built in 1782 as the palace of Rama I's viceroy, Prince Wang Na. Rama V turned it into a museum in 1874, and today there are three permanent exhibitions spread out over several buildings. At the time of research some of the exhibition halls were being renovated.

Chinatown & Phahurat

Cramped and crowded Chinatown is a beehive of commercial activity. Th Yaowarat is fun to explore at night when it is lit up like a Christmas tree and filled with food vendors. The area is undergoing a renaissance with an infusion of new and artsy businesses, like the art gallery-hang out spot of Soy Sauce Factory ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/soysaucefactory; Soi 24, Th Charoen Krung; h10am-7pm Tue-Sun; mHua Lamphong exit 1).

Wat Traimit (Golden Buddha)BUDDHIST TEMPLE

(วัดไตรมิตร, Temple of the Golden Buddha MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th Mittaphap Thai-China; admission 40B; h8am-5pm; fRatchawong Pier, mHua Lamphong exit 1)

The attraction at Wat Traimit is undoubtedly the impressive 3m-tall, 5.5-tonne, solid-gold Buddha image, which gleams like, well, gold. Sculpted in the graceful Sukhothai style, the image was 'discovered' some 40 years ago beneath a stucco/plaster exterior, when it fell from a crane while being moved to a new building within the temple compound.

Talat MaiMARKET

(ตลาดใหม่ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Soi Yaowarat 6/Charoen Krung 16; h6am-6pm; fRatchawong Pier, mHua Lamphong exit 1 & taxi)

With nearly two centuries of commerce under its belt, New Market is no longer an entirely accurate name for this strip of commerce. Regardless, this is Bangkok’s, if not Thailand’s, most Chinese market, and the dried goods, seasonings, spices and sauces will be familiar to anyone who’s ever spent time in China. Even if you’re not interested in food, the hectic atmosphere (be on guard for motorcycles squeezing between shoppers) and exotic sights and smells culminate in something of a surreal sensory experience.

BANGKOK BY WATER

You can observe remnants of urban river life by boarding a Chao Phraya Express boat at any riverside pier. Women should take care not to accidentally bump into a monk and should not sit next to them or stand in the same area of the boat.

You can also charter a longtail boat to explore Khlong Bangkok Noi and other scenic canals in Thonburi. Longtail boats can be arranged from any river pier, including Tha Chang. Just remember to negotiate a price before departure.

Other Areas

oJim Thompson HouseHISTORIC BUILDING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.jimthompsonhouse.com; 6 Soi Kasem San 2; adult/student 150/100B; h9am-6pm, compulsory tours every 20 min; fklorng boat to Sapan Hua Chang Pier, bNational Stadium exit 1)

This jungly compound is the former home of the eponymous American silk entrepreneur and art collector. Born in Delaware in 1906, Thompson briefly served in the Office of Strategic Services (the forerunner of the CIA) in Thailand during WWII. He settled in Bangkok after the war, when his neighbours’ handmade silk caught his eye and piqued his business sense; he sent samples to fashion houses in Milan, London and Paris, gradually building a steady worldwide clientele.

Erawan ShrineMONUMENT

(ศาลพระพรหม MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Th Ratchadamri & Th Phloen Chit; h6am-11pm; bChit Lom exit 8)F

The Erawan Shrine was originally built in 1956 as something of a last-ditch effort to end a string of misfortunes that occurred during the construction of a hotel, at that time known as the Erawan Hotel.

Bangkokian MuseumMUSEUM

(พิพิธภัณฑ์ชาวบางกอก MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 273 Soi 43, Th Charoen Krung; admission by donation; h10am-4pm Wed-Sun; fSi Phraya/River City Pier)

A collection of three antique structures built during the early 20th century, the Bangkokian Museum illustrates an often-overlooked period of Bangkok’s history.

Dusit Palace ParkMUSEUM, HISTORIC SITE

(วังสวนดุสิต MAP GOOGLE MAP ; bounded by Th Ratchawithi, Th U Thong Nai & Th Nakhon Ratchasima; admission adult/child 100/20B, or free with Grand Palace ticket; h9.30am-4pm Tue-Sun; fThewet Pier, bPhaya Thai exit 2 & taxi)

Following his first European tour in 1897, Rama V (King Chulalongkorn; r 1868–1910) returned with visions of European castles and set about transforming these styles into a uniquely Thai expression, today's Dusit Palace Park. Today, the current king has yet another home (in Hua Hin) and this complex now holds a house museum and other cultural collections.

Because this is royal property, visitors should wear shirts with sleeves and long pants (no capri pants) or long skirts.

TTours

Bangkok Food ToursWALKING

(%095 943 9222; www.bangkokfoodtours.com; tours from 1150B)

Half-day culinary tours of Bangkok’s older neighbourhoods.

Grasshopper AdventuresCYCLING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02 280 0832; www.grasshopperadventures.com; 57 Th Ratchadamnoen Klang; half-/full-day tours from 1100/1600B; h8.30am-6.30pm; fklorng boat to Phanfa Leelard Pier)

This lauded outfit runs a variety of unique bicycle tours in and around Bangkok, including a night tour and a tour of the city’s green zones.

zFestivals & Events

Chinese New YearCULTURAL

(hJan or Feb)

Thai-Chinese celebrate the lunar New Year with a week of housecleaning, lion dances and fireworks. Most festivities centre on Chinatown. Dates vary.

SongkranCULTURAL

(hmid-Apr)

The celebration of the Thai New Year has morphed into a water war with high-powered water guns and water balloons being launched at suspecting and unsuspecting participants. The most intense water battles take place on Th Khao San.

Royal Ploughing CeremonyCULTURAL

(hMay)

His Majesty the King (or lately the Crown Prince) commences rice-planting season with a ceremony at Sanam Luang. Dates vary.

Vegetarian FestivalFOOD

(hSep or Oct)

A 10-day Chinese-Buddhist festival wheels out yellow-bannered streetside vendors serving meatless meals. The greatest concentration of vendors is found in Chinatown. Dates vary.

Loi KrathongCULTURAL

(hearly Nov)

A beautiful festival where, on the night of the full moon, small lotus-shaped boats made of banana leaf and containing a lit candle are set adrift on Mae Nam Chao Phraya.

4Sleeping

Because the city has legendary traffic jams, narrow your search first by the geography then by budget. If you’re in the city for a layover, stay as close to your next mode of transport as possible.

Th Khao San, Banglamphu & Thewet

If you’re returning to ‘civilisation’ and need traveller amenities, then the backpacker ghetto of Th Khao San and surrounding Banglamphu is cheap and convenient. The area is packed with guesthouses and hostels, though the main drag can get rowdy with nightly revelry. Quieter corners can be found in Thewet, the district north of Banglamphu near the National Library.

Banglamphu

1Top Sights

1Wat ArunC7

2Wat PhoD6

3Wat Phra Kaew & Grand PalaceC5

1Sights

4Amulet MarketC4

5Lak MeuangD5

6Museum of SiamD7

7National MuseumD3

2Activities, Courses & Tours

8Grasshopper AdventuresF3

National Museum ToursD3

4Sleeping

9ChernG5

10Feung Nakorn BalconyE6

11Fortville GuesthouseE1

12NapPark HostelE2

13Penpark PlaceE1

14Sam Sen Sam PlaceE1

15Suneta Hostel KhaosanF2

5Eating

16Arawy Vegetarian FoodF4

17HemlockD2

18Jay FaiG5

19Pa AewC7

20ShoshanaE2

21Thip SamaiG4

6Drinking & Nightlife

22Hippie de BarE3

3Entertainment

23Ad Here the 13thE1

24Brick BarE3

25National TheatreD3

26Ratchadamnoen StadiumH2

oChernHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02 621 1133; www.chernbangkok.com; 17 Soi Ratchasak; dm 400B, r 1400-1900B; aiW; fklorng boat to Phanfa Leelard Pier)

The vast, open spaces and white, overexposed tones of this hostel converge in an almost afterlife-like feel. The eight-bed dorms are above average, but we particularly like the private rooms, which, equipped with attractively minimalist touches, a vast desk, TV, safe, fridge and heaps of space, are a steal at this price.

NapPark HostelHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02 282 2324; www.nappark.com; 5 Th Tani; dm 440-650B; aiW; fPhra Athit/Banglamphu Pier)

This popular hostel features dorm rooms of various sizes, the smallest and most expensive of which boasts six pod-like beds outfitted with power points, mini-TV, reading lamp and wi-fi. Cultural-based activities and inviting communal areas ensure that you may not actually get the chance to plug in.

Fortville GuesthouseHOTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02 282 3932; www.fortvilleguesthouse.com; 9 Th Phra Sumen; r 870-1120B; aiW; fPhra Athit/Banglamphu Pier)

With an exterior that combines elements of a modern church and/or castle, and an interior that relies on mirrors and industrial themes, the design concept of this hotel – undergoing a renovation at the time of research – is tough to pin down. The rooms themselves are stylishly minimal, and the more expensive ones include perks such as a fridge and balcony.

Suneta Hostel KhaosanHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02 629 0150; www.sunetahostel.com; 209-211 Th Kraisi; dm incl breakfast 490-590B, r incl breakfast 1180B; aiW; fPhra Athit/Banglamphu Pier)

A pleasant, low-key atmosphere, a unique, retro-themed design (some of the dorm rooms resemble sleeping car carriages), a location just off the main drag and friendly service are what make Suneta stand out.

Penpark PlaceHOTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02 628 8896; www.penparkplace.com; 22 Soi 3, Th Samsen; r 330-1650B, ste 2200B; aiW; fThewet Pier)

This former factory has been turned into a good-value budget hotel. A room in the original building is little more than a bed and a fan, but an adjacent add-on sees a handful of well-equipped apartment-like rooms and suites.

Sam Sen Sam PlaceGUESTHOUSE$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02 628 7067; www.samsensam.com; 48 Soi 3, Th Samsen; r incl breakfast 590-2400B; aiW; fThewet Pier)

One of the homeliest places in this area, if not Bangkok, this colourful, refurbished antique villa gets glowing reports about its friendly service and quiet location. Of the 18 rooms here, all are extremely tidy, and the cheapest are fan-cooled and share a bathroom.

SLEEPING NEAR THE AIRPORT

If you’re still in transit and don’t want to bed in central Bangkok, there are more and more options on the eastern outskirts of town within striking distance of the Suvarnabhumi International Airport.

The CottageHOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %02 727 5858; www.thecottagesuvarnabhumi.com; 888/8 Th Lad Krabang; r incl breakfast 900-2700B; aiWs; bPhra Khanong exit 3 & taxi, dSuvarnabhumi Airport & hotel shuttle bus)

Near the airport compound and within walking distance of food and shopping is this solid midranger with airport shuttle.

Novotel Suvarnabhumi Airport HotelHOTEL$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %02 131 1111; www.novotelairportbkk.com; Suvarnabhumi International Airport; incl breakfast r 5613-6200B, ste 8043B; aiW; bPhra Khanong exit 3 & taxi, dSuvarnabhumi Airport & hotel shuttle bus)

Has 600-plus luxurious rooms; located within the Suvarnabhumi International Airport compound.

Chinatown

Hotels near the Hualamphong train station are cheap but not especially interesting and the traffic along Th Phra Ram IV has to be heard to be believed. The surrounding neighbourhood of Chinatown makes for fascinating urban adventures and is sprouting more hip hangouts than before.

Siam ClassicGUESTHOUSE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02 639 6363; 336/10 Trok Chalong Krung; r incl breakfast 450-1200B; aiW; fRatchawong Pier, mHua Lamphong exit 1)

The rooms here don’t include much furniture, and the cheapest don't include air-con or en suite bathrooms, but an effort has been made at making them feel comfortable, tidy and even a bit stylish. An inviting ground-floor communal area encourages meeting and chatting, and the whole place exudes a welcoming homestay vibe.

Loftel 22HOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.loftel22bangkok.com; 952 Soi 22, Th Charoen Krung; dm 350B, r 900-1350B; aiW; fMarine Department Pier, mHua Lamphong exit 1)

Stylish, inviting dorms and private rooms (all with shared bathrooms) have been coaxed out of these two adjoining shophouses. Friendly service and a location in one of Chinatown's most atmospheric corners round out the package.

Feung Nakorn BalconyHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02 622 1100; www.feungnakorn.com; 125 Th Fuang Nakhon; incl breakfast dm 700B, r 1650B, ste 2100-4700B; aiW; fSaphan Phut/Memorial Bridge Pier, Pak Klong Taladd Pier)

Located in a former school, the 42 rooms here surround an inviting garden courtyard and are generally large, bright and cheery. Amenities such as a free minibar, safe and flat-screen TV are standard, and the hotel has a quiet and secluded location away from the strip, with capable staff. A charming and inviting (if not particularly great-value) place to stay.

Siam Square

If you need to be centrally located, then opt for Siam Sq, which is on both BTS (Skytrain) lines. Accommodation in Siam Sq is more expensive than Banglamphu but you’ll save in cab fares. You can also bypass rush-hour traffic between here and Th Khao San by hopping on the klorng taxi at Tha Ratchathewi.

Siam Square & Pratunam

1Top Sights

1Jim Thompson HouseA1

1Sights

2Erawan ShrineD3

4Sleeping

3Lub*dA2

4Wendy HouseB2

5Eating

5Gourmet ParadiseC2

MBK Food IslandB2

7Shopping

6MBK CenterB2

8Information

7Indonesian EmbassyC1

8Irish EmbassyE4

9New Zealand EmbassyE4

10UK EmbassyE2

11US EmbassyE4

12Vietnamese EmbassyE3

oLub*dHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02 634 7999; www.siamsquare.lubd.com; Th Phra Ram I; dm 590B, r 1550-2000B; aiW; bNational Stadium exit 1)

The title is a play on the Thai làp dee, meaning ‘sleep well’, but the fun atmosphere at this modern-feeling hostel might make you want to stay up all night. Diversions include an inviting communal area stocked with games and a bar, and thoughtful facilities range from washing machines to a theatre room. If this one’s full, there’s another branch just off Th Silom ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02 634 7999; www.silom.lubd.com; 4 Th Decho; dm 550-600B, r 1250-1900B; aiW; bChong Nonsi exit 2).

Wendy HouseHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02 214 1149; www.wendyguesthouse.com; 36/2 Soi Kasem San 1; r incl breakfast 750-2000B; aiW; bNational Stadium exit 1)

The rooms at this long-standing budget option are small and basic, but are exceedingly clean and relatively well equipped (TV, fridge) for this price range.

Boxpackers HostelHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02 656 2828; www.boxpackershostel.com; 39/3 Soi 15, Th Phetchaburi; incl breakfast dm 500-800B, r 1260-1530B; aW; bRatchathewi exit 1 & taxi)

A contemporary, sparse hostel with dorms ranging in size from four to 12 double-decker pods – some of which are double beds. Communal areas are inviting, and include a ground-floor cafe and a lounge with pool table. A linked hotel also offers 14 small but similarly attractive private rooms.

Sukhumvit

Th Sukhumvit is a high-end international neighbourhood that isn't the most budget-friendly crash pad. But it is near the Eastern (Ekamai) bus station and on the BTS and MRT lines; the MRT links to the Hualamphong train station. Be warned that the lower-numbered soi attract sex tourists visiting the nearby go-go bars.

Suk 11HOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02 253 5927; www.suk11.com; 1/33 Soi 11, Th Sukhumvit; r incl breakfast 535-1712B; aiW; bNana exit 3)

Extremely well run and equally popular, this rustic guesthouse is an oasis of woods and greenery in the urban jungle that is Th Sukhumvit. The rooms are basic, clean and comfy, if a bit dark, while the cheapest of them share bathrooms. Although the building holds nearly 70 rooms, you’ll still need to book at least two weeks ahead.

Pause HostelHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02 108 8855; www.onedaybkk.com; Oneday, 51 Soi 26, Th Sukhumvit; incl breakfast dm 450-550B, r 1300-2000B; aiW; bPhrom Phong exit 4)

Attached to a cafe/co-working space is this modern, open-feeling hostel. Dorms span four to eight beds, and like the private rooms (only some of which have en suite bathrooms) are united by a handsome industrial-design theme and inviting, sun-soaked communal areas.

Fusion SuitesHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02 665 2644; www.fusionbangkok.com; 143/61-62 Soi 21/Asoke, Th Sukhumvit; r incl breakfast 1700-2400B; aiW; mSukhumvit exit 1, bAsok exit 1)

A disproportionately funky hotel for this price range, with unconventional furnishings providing the rooms here with heaps of style, although the cheapest can be a bit dark.

Silom, Lumphini & Riverside

The financial district around Th Silom has a handful of budget hostels, though the neighbourhood is mainly for bigger budgets. The bonus is that the MRT links with the Hualamphong train station. The old backpacker hood near Lumphini Park has some cheapies too.

Silom Art HostelHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02 635 8070; www.silomarthostel.com; 198/19-22 Soi 14, Th Silom; dm 380-450B, r 1200B; aiW; bChong Nonsi exit 3)

Quirky, artsy, bright and fun, Silom Art Hostel combines recycled materials, unconventional furnishings and colourful wall paintings to culminate in a hostel that's quite unlike anywhere else in town. It's not all about style though: beds and rooms are functional and comfortable, with lots of appealing communal areas.

HQ HostelHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02 233 1598; www.hqhostel.com; 5/3-4 Soi 3, Th Silom; incl breakfast dm 330-520B, r 890-990B; aiW; mSi Lom exit 2, bSala Daeng exit 2)

HQ is a flashpacker hostel in the polished-concrete-and-industrial-style mould. It includes four- to 10-bed dorms, a few private rooms (some with en suite bathroom) and inviting communal areas in a narrow multistorey building in the middle of Bangkok’s financial district.

ETZzz HostelHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02 286 9424; www.etzhostel.com; 5/3 Soi Ngam Du Phli; dm 250-350B, r 900B; aiW; mLumphini exit 1)

This narrow shophouse includes dorms ranging in size from four to 12 beds, and two private rooms (the latter equipped with en suite bathroom), all of which are united by a neat, primary colour theme and a convenient location near the MRT.

SaphaipaeHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02 238 2322; www.saphaipae.com; 35 Th Surasak; incl breakfast dm 450B, r 1000-1600B; aiW; bSurasak exit 1)

The bright colours, chunky furnishings and bold murals in the lobby of this hostel give Saphaipae the feel of a day-care centre for travellers – a vibe that continues through to the playful communal areas and rooms. Dorms and rooms are thoughtful and well equipped, and there's heaps of helpful travel resources and facilities.

Urban HouseHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %081 492 7778; www.urbanh.com; 35/13 Soi Yommarat; incl breakfast r 1200B, ste 1480; aW; mSi Lom exit 2, bSala Daeng exit 4)

There's nothing showy about this shophouse with six rooms, but that's exactly what we like about it. Rooms are subtle, comfortable and relatively spacious, and the place boasts a peaceful, homely atmosphere, largely due to the kind host and the quiet residential street it's located on.

OUTSMARTING THE SCAM ARTISTS

Commit these classic rip-offs to memory and join us in our ongoing crusade to outsmart Bangkok’s scam artists.

Closed today Ignore any ‘friendly’ local who tells you that an attraction is closed for a Buddhist holiday or for cleaning. These are set-ups for trips to a bogus gem sale or shopping.

Túk-túk rides for 10B Say goodbye to your day’s itinerary if you climb aboard this ubiquitous scam. These ‘tours’ bypass the sights and instead cruise to the overpriced tailor and gem shops that pay commissions.

Flat-fare taxi ride Flatly refuse any driver who quotes a flat fare, which will usually be three times more than the meter rate. Head out to the street and flag down a cab. If the driver ‘forgets’ to turn on the meter, just say, ‘Meter, kâ/kráp’.

Long-distance tourist buses Buy your long-distance bus tickets from the government-run bus stations instead of tourist-centre agents selling private tourist bus tickets. Agents charge commission fees or deliver cut-rate services for VIP rates. Readers have consistently reported thefts from personal bags and stowed luggage from private buses.

Friendly strangers Be wary of smartly dressed locals who approach you asking where you’re from and where you’re going. Their opening gambit is usually followed with: ‘Ah, my son/daughter is studying at university in (your city)’. This sort of behaviour is out of character for Thais and is usually a prelude for the notorious gem scam.

Unset Gems Bangkok is no place to be an amateur gem trader. Never accept an invitation to visit a gem shop and refuse to purchase unset stones that can supposedly be resold in your home country.

5Eating

No matter where you go in Bangkok, food is never far away. Surfing the street stalls is the cheapest and tastiest culinary pursuit, but the city’s mall food courts combine the variety of an outdoor market without the noise and heat.

Bangkok also offers an international menu thanks to its many immigrant communities. Chinatown is naturally good for Chinese food; Middle Eastern fare can be found in Little Arabia, off Th Sukhumvit; Indian hangs out near the Hindu temple on Th Silom; and Western cuisine dominates Th Sukhumvit.

Do note that food vendors do not set up on Mondays, ostensibly for citywide street cleaning.

Th Khao San & Banglamphu

Th Khao San is lined with restaurants, but the prices tend to be high and the quality inauthentic. Venture deeper into Banglamphu to find old-school central Thai restaurants.

Pa AewCENTRAL THAI$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th Maha Rat, no roman-script sign; mains 20-60B; h10am-5pm Tue-Sat; fTien Pier)

Pull up a plastic stool for some rich, seafood-heavy, Bangkok-style fare. It's a bare-bones, open-air curry stall, but for taste, Pa Aew is one of our favourite places to eat in this part of town.

There's no English-language sign; look for the exposed trays of food directly in front of the Krung Thai Bank near the corner with Soi Pratu Nokyung.

Thip SamaiCENTRAL THAI$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 313 Th Mahachai; mains 50-250B; h5pm-2am; fklorng boat to Phanfa Leelard Pier)

Brace yourself – you should be aware that the fried noodles sold from carts along Th Khao San have little to do with the dish known as pàt tai. Luckily, less than a five-minute túk-túk ride away lies Thip Samai, home to some of the most legendary fried noodles in town.

Note that Thip Samai is closed on alternate Wednesdays.

Arawy Vegetarian FoodTHAI$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 152 Th Din So; mains from 30B; h7am-8pm; v; fklorng boat to Phanfa Leelard Pier)

Housed in a narrow shophouse, Arawy (‘Delicious’) has heaps of prepared meat-free curries, dips and stir-fries.

ShoshanaISRAELI$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 88 Th Chakraphatdi Phong; mains 70-240B; h10am-midnight; v; fPhra Athit/Banglamphu Pier)

One of Khao San’s longest-running Israeli restaurants, Shoshana resembles your grandparents’ living room right down to the tacky wall art and plastic placemats. Feel safe in ordering anything deep-fried – they do an excellent job of it – and don’t miss the deliciously garlicky eggplant dip.

HemlockTHAI$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 56 Th Phra Athit; mains 75-280B; h4pm-midnight Mon-Sat; v; fPhra Athit/Banglamphu Pier)

Taking full advantage of its cosy shophouse location, this perennial favourite has enough style to feel like a special night out, but doesn’t skimp on flavour or preparation. And unlike at other similar places, the eclectic menu here reads like an ancient literary work, reviving old dishes from aristocratic kitchens across the country, not to mention several meat-free items.

oJay FaiCENTRAL THAI$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 327 Th Mahachai; mains 180-1000B; h3pm-2am Mon-Sat; fklorng boat to Phanfa Leelard Pier)

You wouldn’t think so by looking at her bare-bones dining room, but Jay Fai is known far and wide for serving Bangkok’s most expensive pàt kêe mow ('drunkard’s noodles'; wide rice noodles fried with seafood and Thai herbs).

Jay Fai is located in a virtually unmarked shophouse on Th Mahachai, directly across from a 7-Eleven.

Chinatown

Nay HongCHINESE-THAI$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; off Th Yukol 2, no roman-script sign; mains 35-50B; h4-10pm; fRatchawong Pier, mHua Lamphong exit 1 & taxi)

The reward for locating this hole-in-the-wall is one of the best fried noodle dishes in Bangkok. The dish in question is gŏo·ay đĕe·o kôo·a gài, flat rice noodles fried with garlic oil, chicken and egg.

To find it, proceed north from the corner of Th Suapa and Th Luang, then turn right into the first side-street; it's at the end of the narrow alleyway.

Nai Mong Hoi ThodCHINESE-THAI$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 539 Th Phlap Phla Chai; mains 50-70B; h5-10pm Tue-Sun; fRatchawong Pier, mHua Lamphong exit 1 & taxi)

A shophouse restaurant renowned for its delicious or sòo·an (mussels or oysters fried with egg and a sticky batter) and a decent crab fried rice.

SamsaraJAPANESE, THAI$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Soi Khang Wat Pathum Khongkha; mains 110-320B; h4pm-midnight Tue-Thu, to 1am Fri-Sun; v; fRatchawong Pier, mHua Lamphong exit 1 & taxi)

Combining Japanese and Thai dishes, Belgian beers and an artfully ramshackle atmosphere, Samsara is easily Chinatown's most eclectic place to eat. It's also very tasty, and the generous riverside breezes and views simply add to the package.

The restaurant is at the end of tiny Soi Khang Wat Pathum Khongkha, just west of the temple of the same name.

Royal IndiaINDIAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 392/1 Th Chakkaraphet; mains 70-350B; h10am-10pm; v; fSaphan Phut/Memorial Bridge Pier, Pak Klong Taladd Pier)

Yes, we're aware that this hole-in-the-wall has been in every edition of our guide since the beginning, but after all these years it's still the most reliable place to eat in Bangkok's Little India. Try any of the delicious breads or rich curries, and don't forget to finish with a homemade Punjabi sweet.

Siam Square

Mall food courts, which are better than you would expect, are this neighbourhood's primary food troughs.

MBK Food IslandTHAI$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 6th fl, MBK Center, cnr Th Phra Ram I & Th Phayathai; mains 35-150B; h10am-10pm; v; bNational Stadium exit 4)

Undergoing a renovation at the time of research, the grandaddy of the genre is set to continue its offer of dozens of vendors selling regional Thai and international dishes.

Gourmet ParadiseTHAI$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ground fl, Siam Paragon, 991/1 Th Phra Ram I; mains 35-500B; h10am-10pm; v; bSiam exits 3 & 5)

The perpetually busy Gourmet Paradise unites international fast-food chains, domestic restaurants and food-court-style stalls, with a particular emphasis on the sweet stuff.

HIGH CULTURE, LOW COST

Thai classical dance is typically promoted among package tourists as a dinner-theatre experience, but baht-minded travellers can see performances in free, or nearly free, venues.

Lak Meuang (ศาลหลักเมือง MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Th Sanam Chai & Th Lak Meuang; h6.30am-6.30pm; fChang Pier, Maharaj Pier, Phra Chan Tai Pier), near Wat Phra Kaew, showcases shrine dances to the guardian spirits by merit-makers whose wishes have been granted.
Erawan Shrine, next to Grand Hyatt Erawan hotel, also features shrine dances.
Artist's House (บ้านศิลปิน GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/Baansilapin; Khlong Bang Luang; h9am-6pm; bWongwian Yai exit 2) has free traditional Thai puppets shows on weekends at 2pm.
National Theatre ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02 224 1342; 2 Th Ratchini; tickets 60-100B; fChang Pier, Maharaj Pier, Phra Chan Tai Pier) hosts traditional dance performances on the first and second Sundays of the month; tickets go on sale an hour before the 2pm performance.

Sukhumvit

Fine dining is Sukhumvit’s strong suit. For cheap eats, check out Pier 21 ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 5th fl, Terminal 21, cnr Th Sukhumvit & Soi 21/Asoke; mains 39-200B; h10am-10pm; v; mSukhumvit exit 3, bAsok exit 3), the noisy food court of Terminal 21 mall. A city overrun with mobile meals has embraced the international phenomenon of food trucks. Most food trucks hang out around Sukhumvit and serve Western comfort food (burgers, tacos, hot dogs). Check their Facebook pages for schedules: Daniel Thaiger ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %084 549 0995; www.facebook.com/danielthaiger; Soi 23, Th Sukhumvit; mains from 139B; h5-10.30pm; mSukhumvit exit 2, bAsok exit 3), Full Moon Food Truck (www.facebook.com/fullmoonfoodtruckbkk; mains from 150B; h5-11.30pm) and Orn the Road (%095 628 0416; www.facebook.com/orntheroadbkk; mains from 160-300B; h11am-7pm; v).

GokfayuenCHINESE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/wuntunmeen; 161/7 Soi Thong Lor 9; mains 69-139B; h11am-11.30pm; bThong Lo exit 3 & taxi)

This new place has gone to great lengths to recreate classic Hong Kong dishes in Bangkok. Couple your (house-made) wheat-and-egg noodles with roasted pork, steamed vegetables with oyster sauce, or the Hong Kong–style milk tea.

Nasir Al-MasriMIDDLE EASTERN$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 4/6 Soi 3/1, Th Sukhumvit; mains 160-370B; h24hr; v; bNana exit 1)

One of several Middle Eastern restaurants on Soi 3/1, Nasir Al-Masri is easily recognisable by its floor-to-ceiling stainless steel ‘theme’. Middle Eastern food often means meat, meat and more meat, but the menu here also includes several delicious vegie-based mezze (small dishes).

Soul Food MahanakornTHAI$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02 714 7708; www.soulfoodmahanakorn.com; 56/10 Soi 55/Thong Lor, Th Sukhumvit; mains 140-300B; h5.30pm-midnight; v; bThong Lo exit 3)

Soul Food gets its interminable buzz from its dual nature as both an inviting restaurant – the menu spans tasty interpretations of rustic Thai dishes – and a bar serving deliciously boozy, Thai-influenced cocktails. Reservations recommended.

Bo.lanTHAI$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02 260 2962; www.bolan.co.th; 24 Soi 53, Th Sukhumvit; set meals 980-2680B; hnoon-2.30pm & 7-10.30pm Thu-Sun, 11.30am-10.30pm Tue & Wed; v; bThong Lo exit 1)

Upscale Thai is often more garnish than flavour, but Bo.lan has proven to be the exception. Bo and Dylan (Bo.lan is a play on words that also means ‘ancient’) take a scholarly approach to Thai cuisine, and generous set meals featuring full-flavoured Thai dishes are the results of this tuition (à la carte is not available; meat-free meals are). Reservations recommended.

Silom, Lumphini & Riverside

Muslim RestaurantMUSLIM-THAI$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 1354-6 Th Charoen Krung; mains 40-140B; h6.30am-5.30pm; fOriental Pier, bSaphan Taksin exit 1)

Plant yourself in any random wooden booth of this ancient eatery for a glimpse into what restaurants in Bangkok used to be like. The menu, much like the interior design, doesn’t appear to have changed much in the restaurant’s 70-year history, and the birianis, curries and samosas remain more Indian-influenced than Thai.

Chennai KitchenINDIAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 107/4 Th Pan; mains 70-150B; h10am-3pm & 6-9.30pm; v; bSurasak exit 3)

This thimble-sized mom-and-pop restaurant puts out some of the best southern Indian vegetarian food in town. Yard-long dosai (a crispy southern Indian bread) is always a good choice, but if you’re feeling indecisive (or exceptionally famished) go for the banana-leaf thali (set meal) that seems to incorporate just about everything in the kitchen.

Never Ending SummerTHAI$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02 861 0953; www.facebook.com/TheNeverEndingSummer; 41/5 Th Charoen Nakhon; mains 140-350B; h11am-2pm & 5-11pm Mon, 11am-11pm Tue-Sun; friver-crossing ferry from River City Pier)

The cheesy name doesn't do justice to this surprisingly sophisticated Thai restaurant located in a former warehouse by the river. Join Bangkok's beautiful crowd for antiquated Thai dishes such as cubes of watermelon served with a dry 'dressing' of fish, sugar and deep-fried shallots, or fragrant green curry with pork and fresh bird's-eye chilli.

onahmTHAI$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02 625 3388; www.comohotels.com/metropolitanbangkok/dining/nahm; ground fl, Metropolitan Hotel, 27 Th Sathon Tai/South; set lunch 550-1500, set dinner 2300B, dishes 280-750B; hnoon-2pm Mon-Fri, 7-10.30pm daily; mLumphini exit 2)

Australian chef-author David Thompson is the man behind one of Bangkok's – and if you believe the critics, the world's – best Thai restaurants. Using ancient cookbooks as his inspiration, Thompson has given new life to previously extinct dishes with exotic descriptions such as 'smoked fish curry with prawns, chicken livers, cockles, chillies and black pepper'.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Most backpackers are pleased to find that the party finds them on Th Khao San, where night-time equals the right time for a drink. If you feel like a wander there are hip watering holes sprinkled throughout the city.

Bangkok’s curfew (1am for bars, 2am for clubs) is strictly enforced, though there are always loopholes. Smoking is banned from all indoor bars and clubs and some open-air places as well.

Cover charges for clubs range from 100B to 800B and usually include a drink or two. Most clubs heat up after 11pm; bring your ID.

Bangkok’s party people are fickle and dance clubs are used up like tissues. To chase down the crowds check out Dudesweet (www.dudesweet.org) or Paradise Bangkok (www.facebook.com/paradisebangkok), which organise popular monthly parties.

oWTFBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.wtfbangkok.com; 7 Soi 51, Th Sukhumvit; h6pm-1am Tue-Sun; W; bThong Lo exit 3)

Wonderful Thai Friendship (what did you think it stood for?) is a funky and friendly neighbourhood bar that also packs in a gallery space. Arty locals and resident foreigners come for the old-school cocktails, live music and DJ events, poetry readings, art exhibitions and tasty bar snacks. And we, like them, give WTF our vote for Bangkok's best bar.

oTep BarBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/TEPBAR; 69-71 Soi Nana; h5pm-midnight Tue-Sun; mHua Lamphong exit 1)

We never expected to find a bar this sophisticated – yet this fun – in Chinatown. Tep does it with a Thai-tinged, contemporary interior, tasty signature cocktails, Thai drinking snacks, and come Friday to Sunday, raucous live Thai music performances.

Hippie de BarBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/hippie.debar; 46 Th Khao San; h3pm-2am; fPhra Athit/Banglamphu Pier)

Our vote for Banglamphu's best bar, Hippie boasts a funky retro vibe and indoor and outdoor seating, all set to the type of indie/pop soundtrack that you're unlikely to hear elsewhere in town. Despite being located on Th Khao San, there are surprisingly few foreign faces, and it's a great place to make some new Thai friends.

Iron FairiesBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.theironfairies.com; 394 Soi 55/Thong Lor, Th Sukhumvit; h6pm-2am; bThong Lo exit 3 & taxi)

Imagine, if you can, an abandoned fairy factory in Paris c 1912, and you’ll begin to get an idea of the vibe at this popular pub/wine bar. If you manage to wrangle one of the handful of seats, you can test their claim of serving Bangkok’s best burgers. There’s live music after 9.30pm.

Sky BarBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.lebua.com/sky-bar; 63rd fl, State Tower, 1055 Th Silom; h6pm-1am; fSathon/Central Pier, bSaphan Taksin exit 3)

Descend the Hollywood-like staircase to emerge at this bar that juts out over the Bangkok skyline and Chao Phraya River. Scenes from The Hangover Part II were filmed here, and the 'hangovertini' cocktail is actually quite drinkable. The views, of course, aren't bad either.

Route 66CLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.route66club.com; 29/33-48 RCA/Royal City Ave; admission 300B; h8pm-2am; mPhra Ram 9 exit 3 & taxi)

This vast club has been around just about as long as RCA has, but frequent facelifts and expansions have kept it relevant. Top 40 hip hop rules the main space here, although there are several different themed ‘levels’, featuring anything from Thai pop to live music.

GreaseCLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.greasebangkok.com; 46/12 Soi 49, Th Sukhumvit; h6pm-2am Mon-Sat; bPhrom Phong exit 3 & taxi)

Bangkok’s youngest-feeling, hottest nightclub is also one of its biggest – you could get lost here in the four floors of dining venues, lounges and dance floors.

Studio LamBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/studiolambangkok; Soi 51, Th Sukhumvit; h6pm-1am Tue-Sun; bThong Lo exit 3)

This new venue is an extension of uberhip record label ZudRangMa, with a Jamaican-style sound system custom-built for world and retro-Thai DJ sets and the occasional live show. Thai-influenced signature drinks bring Studio Lam to the present day.

LGBT BANGKOK

Bangkok’s LGBT community is loud, proud and knows how to party. A newcomer might want to visit BK (www.bk.asia-city.com) and Bangkok Lesbian (www.bangkoklesbian.com) for nightlife tips.

Bangkok’s ‘pink alleys’ branch off Th Silom. Reliable standards include Balcony ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.balconypub.com; 86-88 Soi 4, Th Silom; h5.30pm-2am; W; mSi Lom exit 2, bSala Daeng exit 1) and Telephone Pub ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.telephonepub.com; 114/11-13 Soi 4, Th Silom; h6pm-1am; W; mSi Lom exit 2, bSala Daeng exit 1), while dance clubs cluster on Soi 2, Th Silom.

3Entertainment

oBrick BarLIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.brickbarkhaosan.com; basement, Buddy Lodge, 265 Th Khao San; admission Sat & Sun 150B; h8pm-1.30am; fPhra Athit/Banglamphu Pier)

This basement pub, one of our fave destinations in Bangkok for live music, hosts a nightly revolving cast of bands for an almost exclusively Thai crowd – many of whom will end the night dancing on the tables. Brick Bar can get infamously packed, so be sure to get there early.

Ad Here the 13thLIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/adhere13thbluesbar; 13 Th Samsen; h6pm-midnight; fPhra Athit/Banglamphu Pier)

Located beside Khlong Banglamphu/Khlong Rob Krung, this closet-sized blues bar is everything a neighbourhood joint should be: lots of regulars, cold beer and heart-warming tunes delivered by a masterful house band (starting at 10pm). Everyone knows each other, so don’t be shy about mingling.

Lumpinee Boxing StadiumSPECTATOR SPORT

( GOOGLE MAP ; %02 282 3141; www.muaythailumpinee.net/en; 6 Th Ramintra; tickets 3rd-class/2nd-class/ringside 1000/1500/2000B; mChatuchak Park exit 2 & taxi, bMo Chit exit 3 & taxi)

The other of Bangkok's two premier Thai boxing rings has moved to fancy new digs north of town. Matches occur on Tuesdays and Fridays from 6.30pm to 11pm, and on Saturdays at 4pm to 8.30pm and from 9pm to 12.30am. At time of research there were plans underway for a Thai boxing museum and a school for foreign fighters.

Ratchadamnoen StadiumSPECTATOR SPORT

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; off Th Ratchadamnoen Nok; tickets 3rd-class/2nd-class/ringside 1000/1500/2000B; fThewet Pier, bPhaya Thai exit 3 & taxi)

Ratchadamnoen Stadium, Bangkok’s oldest and most venerable venue for moo·ay tai (Thai boxing; also spelt muay thai), hosts matches on Monday, Wednesday and Thursday from 6.30pm to around 11pm, and Sunday at 3pm and 6.30pm. Be sure to buy tickets from the official ticket counter, not from the touts and scalpers who hang around outside the entrance.

7Shopping

Bangkok is a great shopping destination but smart travellers opt for a shopping spree right before their return flight to avoid hauling extra cargo across Southeast Asia.

oChatuchak Weekend MarketMARKET

(ตลาดนัดจตุจักร, Talat Nat Jatujak GOOGLE MAP ; www.chatuchak.org; Th Phahonyothin; h9am-6pm Sat & Sun; mChatuchak Park exit 1, Kamphaeng Phet exits 1 & 2, bMo Chit exit 1)

Among the largest markets in the world, Chatuchak seems to unite everything buyable, from used vintage sneakers to baby squirrels. Plan to spend a full day here, as there’s plenty to see, do and buy. But come early, ideally around 10am, to beat the crowds and the heat.

oMBK CenterSHOPPING CENTRE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.mbk-center.com; cnr Th Phra Ram I & Th Phayathai; h10am-10pm; bNational Stadium exit 4)

This colossal shopping mall underwent an extensive renovation in 2015 and is set to retain its role as one of Bangkok’s top attractions. On any given weekend half of Bangkok's residents (and most of its tourists) can be found here combing through a seemingly inexhaustible range of small stalls and shops that span a whopping eight floors.

Patpong Night MarketGIFTS & SOUVENIRS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th Phat Phong & Soi Phat Phong 2; h6pm-midnight; mSi Lom exit 2, bSala Daeng exit 1)

You’ll be faced with the competing distractions of strip-clubbing and shopping in this infamous area. And true to the area’s illicit leanings, pirated goods (in particular watches) make a prominent appearance even amid a wholesome crowd of families and straight-laced couples. Bargain with determination, as first-quoted prices tend to be astronomically high.

Terminal 21SHOPPING CENTRE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.terminal21.co.th; cnr Th Sukhumvit & Soi 21/Asoke; h10am-10pm; mSukhumvit exit 3, bAsok exit 3)

Seemingly catering to a Thai need for wacky objects to be photographed in front of, this new mall is worth a visit for the spectacle as much as the shopping. Start at the basement-level 'airport' and proceed upwards through 'Paris', 'Tokyo' and other city-themed floors. Who knows, you might even buy something.

WORTH A TRIP

FLOATING MARKETS

Photographs of Thailand’s floating markets – wooden canoes laden with multicoloured fruits and vegetables – have become an iconic image of the kingdom. They are also a sentimental piece of history. Like all good nations do, Thailand has modernised, replacing canals with roads, and boats with vehicles. The floating markets have now crawled ashore with a few enduring throwbacks.

Taling Chan Floating Market (ตลาดน้ำตลิ่งชัน GOOGLE MAP ; Khlong Bangkok Noi, Thonburi; h7am-4pm Sat & Sun; bWongwian Yai exit 3 & taxi), located just across the river from Bangkok, is an ordinary produce market with a few floating twists. Vendors in canoes serve food to customers on floating docks. The market can be reached by longtail tours or by air-con bus 79 (16B, 25 minutes) from Ratchadamnoen Klang.

Amphawa Floating Market (ตลาดน้ำอัมพวา GOOGLE MAP ; Amphawa; dishes 20-40B; h4-9pm Fri-Sun) is a weekend market popular with Bangkok tourists thanks to its scenic canalside setting. For a cultural immersion, spend the night in one of the village's homestays (250B to 1000B per person) and experience the after-dark firefly display on a canal tour (60B per seat, 500B charter). To get to Amphawa, take a minivan from Bangkok's Victory Monument to Phetchaburi (100B, two hours, every 45 minutes 5.15am to 8pm) or take a bus from Bangkok's Southern Bus Terminal (120B, two hours, frequent).

Damnoen Saduak Floating Market (ตลาดน้ำดำเนินสะดวก Damnoen Saduak, Ratchaburi; h7am-noon) is the most famous of them all, though it is really a floating souvenir stand catering to tourists, including a surprising number of Thai tourists. You can reach Damnoen Saduak (80B, two hours, frequent) from Bangkok's Southern Bus Terminal. Boats at the market can be hired for 100B per person and make trips into the adjacent residential canals.

8Information

Emergency

PolicePOLICE

(%191)

The police contact number functions as the de facto universal emergency number in Thailand, and can also be used to call an ambulance or report a fire.

Tourist PolicePOLICE

(%24hr hotline 1155)

The best way to deal with most problems requiring police (usually a rip-off or theft) is to contact the tourist police, who are used to dealing with foreigners and can be very helpful in cases of arrest.

Medical Services

There are several outstanding hospitals in Bangkok with English-speaking staff.

Bangkok Christian HospitalHOSPITAL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02 625 9000; www.bch.in.th/en; 124 Th Silom; mSi Lom exit 2, bSala Daeng exit 1)

Modern hospital in central Bangkok.

Bumrungrad International HospitalHOSPITAL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02 667 1000; www.bumrungrad.com/thailandhospital; 33 Soi 3, Th Sukhumvit; bPhloen Chit exit 3)

An internationally accredited hospital.

Post

Main Post OfficePOST

( GOOGLE MAP ; %02 233 1050; Th Charoen Krung; h8am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat & Sun; fOriental Pier)

Bangkok's main post office.

Tourist Information

Official tourist offices distribute maps, brochures and sightseeing advice. Don't confuse these free services with the licensed travel agents that make bookings on a commission basis. Often, travel agencies incorporate elements of the national tourism organisation name (Tourism Authority of Thailand; TAT) into their business name to confuse tourists.

Bangkok Information CenterTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %02 225 7612-4; www.bangkoktourist.com; 17/1 Th Phra Athit; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat & Sun; fPhra Athit/Banglamphu Pier)

City-specific tourism office providing maps, brochures and directions. Kiosks and booths are found around town; look for the green-on-white symbol of a mahout on an elephant.

Tourism Authority of ThailandTOURIST INFORMATION

(TAT; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02 250 5500, call centre 1672; www.tourismthailand.org; 1600 Th Phetchaburi Tat Mai; h8.30am-4.30pm; mPhetchaburi exit 2)

This large TAT information service has brochures and maps covering the whole country.

Visas & Immigration

Bangkok Immigration OfficeIMMIGRATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %02 141 9889; www.bangkok.immigration.go.th/intro1.html; Bldg B, Government Centre, Soi 7, Th Chaeng Watthana; h8.30am-noon & 1-4.30pm Mon-Fri; mChatuchak Park exit 2 & taxi, bMo Chit exit 3 & taxi)

In Bangkok, visa extensions are filed at this office.

8Getting There & Away

Air

Bangkok is the air-travel hub for Thailand and mainland Southeast Asia. When purchasing tickets, verify which Bangkok airport you'll be using.

Suvarnabhumi International Airport ( GOOGLE MAP ; %02 132 1888; www.suvarnabhumiairport.com), 30km east of Bangkok, handles all international air traffic and most domestic routes. The airport name is pronounced ‘sù·wan·ná·poom’ and its airport code is BKK.

Don Mueang Airport ( GOOGLE MAP ; %02 535 1253; www.donmueangairportthai.com), 25km north of central Bangkok, handles domestic and some international routes through budget airlines.

Bus

Eastern Bus TerminalBUS STATION

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02 391 2504; Soi 40, Th Sukhumvit; bEkkamai exit 2)

The departure point for buses to Pattaya, Rayong, Chanthaburi and other points east, except for Aranya Prathet. Most people call it sà·tăh·nee èk·gà·mai (Ekamai station). It's near the Ekkamai BTS station.

Northern & Northeastern Bus TerminalBUS STATION

(Mo Chit; GOOGLE MAP ; %northeastern routes 02 936 2852, ext 602/605, northern routes 02 936 2841, ext 325/614; Th Kamphaeng Phet; mKamphaeng Phet exit 1 & taxi, bMo Chit exit 3 & taxi)

Located just north of Chatuchak Park, this hectic bus station is also commonly called kŏn sòng mǒr chít (Mo Chit station) – not to be confused with Mo Chit BTS station. Buses depart from here for all northern and northeastern destinations, as well as international destinations including Pakse (Laos), Phnom Penh (Cambodia), Siem Reap (Cambodia) and Vientiane (Laos).

Southern Bus TerminalBUS STATION

(Sai Tai Mai; GOOGLE MAP ; %02 422 4444, call centre 1490; Th Boromaratchachonanee)

The city's southern bus terminal lies a long way west of the centre of Bangkok. Commonly called săi đâi mài, it's among the more pleasant and orderly in the country. Besides serving as the departure point for all buses south of Bangkok, transport to Kanchanaburi and western Thailand also departs from here.

Suvarnabhumi Public Transport CentreBUS

(%02 132 1888; Suvarnabhumi Airport)

Located 3km from Suvarnabhumi International Airport, this terminal has relatively frequent departures to points east and northeast including Aranya Prathet (for the Cambodian border), Chanthaburi, Ko Chang, Nong Khai (for the Lao border), Pattaya, Rayong, Trat and Udon Thani. It can be reached from the airport by a free shuttle bus.

TOURIST BUSES FROM TH KHAO SAN

Skip the long-distance bus services that originate out of Bangkok’s Th Khao San; these often have hidden costs, commission-generating hassles and a high rate of theft from stowed luggage.

Minivan

Privately run minivans (rót đôo) are a convenient alternative to buses for neighbouring provinces. In Bangkok, Victory Monument (อนุสาวรีย์ชัย GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Th Ratchawithi & Th Phayathai; h24hr; bVictory Monument exit 2) is surrounded by various minivan depots.

Train

Hualamphong Train StationTRAIN STATION

(%02 220 4334, call centre 1690; www.railway.co.th; off Th Phra Ram IV; mHua Lamphong exit 2)

Hualamphong is the terminus for the main rail services to the south, north, northeast and east.

Hualamphong has the following services: shower room, mailing centre, luggage storage, cafes and food courts. To get to the station from Sukhumvit take the MRT to the Hua Lamphong stop. From western points (Banglamphu, Thewet), take bus 53.

Thonburi Train StationTRAIN STATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %02 418 4310, call centre 1690; www.railway.co.th; off Th Itsaraphap; fThonburi Railway Station, Wang Lang/Siriraj Pier, bWongwian Yai exit 4 & taxi)

Also known as Thonburi train station, this station handles infrequent (and overpriced for foreigners) services to Nakhon Pathom, Kanchanaburi and Nam Tok.

8Getting Around

Bangkok is nearly always choked with traffic. You will need a good map and a lot of patience to get around.

To/From the Airports

Suvarnabhumi International Airport

AAirport Rail Link connects the airport to central Bangkok at Makkasan/Bangkok City Air Terminal and at Phaya Thai (45B, 30 minutes, from 6am to midnight). The Makkasan/Bangkok City Air Terminal has access to MRT Phetchaburi, which is convenient for Silom and Sukhumvit. The Airport Rail Link continues to Phaya Thai terminal, with access to the BTS Phaya Thai station.

ALocal Bus Local buses travel between central Bangkok and the airport’s public transport centre, a 3km ride on a free shuttle bus from the airport. There is also a minivan service to Don Muang.

Bus 551 (Victory Monument; 40B, frequent from 5am to 10pm)

Bus 552 (BTS On Nut station; 20B, frequent from 5am to 10pm)

AIntercity Bus The airport’s public transport centre has services to other eastern cities within Thailand.

ATaxi Public meter taxis (not the ‘official airport taxis’) queue outside of baggage claim. Taxi lines tend to be long; you can always dodge the line by flagging a cab from the arrivals hall. Touts often offer flat fares (usually inflated), but you can try to bargain for a fare closer to the meter rate. For meter taxis you must also pay a 50B airport surcharge to the driver and toll charges (usually about 75B). Politely insist that the meter is used (‘Meter, kâ/kráp’) if the driver suggests otherwise. Depending on traffic, meter rates should be as follows:

Banglamphu/Khao San: 350B to 400B

Th Sukhumvit: 200B to 250B

Th Silom: 300B to 350B

Don Muang Airport

AAirport Bus These services depart from the airport to various points in central Bangkok.

A1 (BTS Mo Chit; 30B, frequent from 7.30am to 11.30pm)

A2 (BTS Mo Chit & BTS Victory Monument; 30B, every 30 minutes from 7.30am to 11.30pm)

ALocal Bus The following air-con buses stop on the highway in front of the airport. Local buses run 24 hours. There is also minivan service to Suvarnabhumi airport.

Bus 59 (Th Khao San; 23B)

Bus 29 (BTS Victory Monument and Hualamphong train station; 23B)

ATaxi There is a 50B airport surcharge added to the meter fare and tolls are paid by the passenger.

ATrain Exit Terminal 1 towards the Amari Airport Hotel to connect to Don Muang train station with service to Hualamphong train station (5B to 10B, one hour, roughly every hour from 4am to 11.30am and 2pm to 9.30pm).

THANON & SOI

Thanon (meaning ‘street’) is abbreviated as ‘Th’. A soi is a small street or lane that runs off a larger street. The address of a site located on a soi will be written as 48/3-5 Soi 1, Th Sukhumvit, meaning off Th Sukhumvit on Soi 1.

Boat

Chao Phraya Express Boat (%02 623 6001; www.chaophrayaexpressboat.com) is a scenic and efficient way of exploring the sights in Ko Ratanakosin, Banglamphu and parts of Silom. The boats ply a regular route along the Mae Nam Chao Phraya. During rush hour pay close attention to the boat’s colour-coded flags to avoid boarding an express line. The company operates the following services:

Express Indicated by an orange flag; from 15B, morning and evening rush hour till about 7pm; travels from Wat Rajsingkorn to Nonthaburi, stopping at major piers only.

Local Without a flag; 10B to 14B, morning and evening rush hour till 5.30pm Monday to Friday.

Tourist Blue flag; 40B or 150B day pass, every 30 minutes 9.30am to 5pm; travels from Sathon/Central Pier to Phra Athit/Banglamphu piers, stopping at popular sightseeing piers.

Klorng boats (9B to 19B, daylight hours) zip up and down Khlong Saen Saep, a narrow waterway connecting eastern and western Bangkok. The canals are something akin to an open sewer so try not to get splashed and take care when boarding and disembarking as the boats stop for mere seconds. Useful piers include the following:

Tha Phan Fah Eastern terminus, Banglamphu.

Tha Hua Chang Siam Sq area.

Tha Pratunam Interchange pier, BTS Chitlom.

BTS & MRT

The elevated BTS (%02 617 6000, tourist information 02 617 7341; www.bts.co.th) skytrain is a slick ride through the modern parts of town. There are two lines: the Sukhumvit and Silom lines. Trains run frequently from 6am to 11.45pm; fares vary from 15B to 52B, or 140B for a one-day pass. Staffed booths provide change for the fare-card machines but do not sell single-fare tickets. You can buy value-stored tickets from the booths.

Trains are labelled with the line and the terminal station (indicating the direction the train is travelling). There are also interchange stations with MRT (Metro).

The underground MRT (%02 354 2000; www.bangkokmetro.co.th) (Metro) is most useful if travelling from Silom or Sukhumvit to the Hualamphong train station. Trains operate from 6am to midnight and cost 16B to 42B, or 120B for a one-day pass. The following MRT stations provide interchange to BTS (Skytrain):

AChatuchak (BTS Chatuchak)

ASukhumvit (BTS Asoke)

ASilom (BTS Sala Daeng)

Bus

The Bangkok bus service is frequent and frantic and is operated by Bangkok Mass Transit Authority (%02 246 0973, call centre 1348; www.bmta.co.th). Fares for ordinary buses start at 6.50B and air-con buses at 10B. Most buses operate between 5am and 10pm or 11pm; a few run all night.

Bangkok Bus Guide, by thinknet, is the most up-to-date route map available.

Taxi

Most taxis in Bangkok are meter taxis, though some drivers ‘forget’ to use their meters or prefer to quote a flat (and grossly inflated) fare to tourists. Skip the cabs that park in front of hotels (they operate on a charter basis) and instead flag down a roving cab on one of the main streets. Unless it is a rainy rush hour, cabs are plentiful. Fares should generally run from 60B to 90B, depending on distance.

App-based taxi alternatives have arrived in Bangkok: try Uber or All Thai Taxi.

Motorcycle taxis camp out at the mouth of a soi to shuttle people from the main road to their destinations down the lane. Soi trips cost 10B to 20B; negotiate a fare beforehand. Motorcycle taxis are often used to get somewhere in a hurry because they can weave in and out of traffic, but their accident rates are high and often catastrophic. They are a better alternative on quiet streets where traffic is light and the walk is long.

Túk-Túk

The Thai version of a go-kart is Bangkok’s most iconic vehicle and its most enduring hassle. Túk-túks chatter like a chainsaw, drivers take corners at an angle and are relentless in drumming up business. There are so many túk-túk scams that you really need some tenure in the city to know how much your trip should cost before bargaining for a ride and to know when a túk-túk is handier and cheaper than a cab. You must fix fares in advance for all túk-túk rides.

If you climb aboard just for the fun of it, you might end up being taken for a ride, literally. Beware of túk-túk drivers who offer to take you on a sightseeing tour for 10B or 20B – it’s a touting scheme designed to pressure you into purchasing overpriced goods.