Nerja • Gibraltar • Tarifa
Sleeping in and near Gibraltar
Spain’s south coast—the famous Costa del Sol—is so bad, it’s interesting. To northern Europeans, the sun is a drug, and this is their needle. Anything resembling a quaint fishing village has been bikini-strangled and Nivea-creamed. Oblivious to the concrete, pollution, ridiculous prices, and traffic jams, tourists lie on the beach like game hens on skewers—cooking, rolling, and sweating under the sun.
Where Europe’s most popular beach isn’t crowded by high-rise hotels, most of it’s in a freeway choke hold. Wonderfully undeveloped beaches between Tarifa and Cádiz, and east of Almería, are ignored, while human lemmings make the scene where the coastal waters are so polluted that hotels are required to provide swimming pools. It’s a fascinating study in human nature. The Costa del Sol has suffered through the recent economic crisis: Real estate, construction, and tourism had powered the economy, and the effects of its decline are still apparent. Crime and racial tension have risen, as many once-busy individuals are now without work.
Particularly in the resorts west of Málaga, most of the foreigners are British—you’ll find beans on your breakfast plate and Tom Jones for Muzak. Spanish visitors complain that some restaurants have only English menus, and indeed, the typical expats here actually try not to integrate. I’ve heard locals say of the British, “If they could, they’d take the sun back home with them—but they can’t, so they stay here.” They enjoy English TV and radio, and many barely learn a word of Spanish. (Special school buses take British children to private English-language schools that connect with Britain’s higher-education system.) For an insight into this British community, read the free local expat magazines.
Laugh with Ronald McDonald at the car-jammed resorts. But if you want a place to stay and play in the sun, unroll your beach towel at Nerja, the most appealing beach-resort town on the coast. And don’t forget that you’re surprisingly close to jolly olde England: The land of tea and scones, fish-and-chips, pubs and bobbies awaits you—in Gibraltar. Although a British territory, Gibraltar has a unique cultural mix that makes it far more interesting than the anonymous resorts that line the coast. Beyond “The Rock,” the whitewashed port of Tarifa—the least-developed piece of Spain’s generally overdeveloped southern coast—is a workaday town with a historic center, broad beaches, and good hotels and restaurants. Most importantly, Tarifa is the perfect springboard for a quick trip to Tangier, Morocco (see next two chapters). These three places alone—Nerja, Gibraltar, and Tarifa—make the Costa del Sol worth a trip.
My negative opinions on the “Costa del Turismo” are valid for peak season (mid-July-mid-Sept). If you’re there during a quieter time and you like the ambience of a beach resort, it can be a pleasant stop. Off-season it can be neutron-bomb quiet.
The whole 150 miles of coastline takes six hours by bus or three hours to drive with no traffic jams. You can resort-hop by bus across the entire Costa del Sol and reach Nerja for dinner. If you want to party on the beach, it can take as much time as Mazatlán.
To day-trip to Tangier, Morocco, head for Tarifa.
While cashing in on the fun-in-the-sun culture, Nerja has actually kept much of its quiet Old World charm. It has good beaches, a fun evening paseo (strolling scene) that culminates in the proud Balcony of Europe terrace, enough pastry shops and nightlife, and locals who get more excited about their many festivals than the tourists do.
Although Nerja’s population swells from about 22,000 in winter to about 90,000 in the summer, it’s more of a year-round destination and a real town than many other resorts. Thanks to cheap airfares and the completion of the expressway, real estate boomed here in the last decade (property values doubled in six years). The bubble collapsed to some extent with the recent financial crisis, but Nerja has remained hardier than other parts of the Costa del Sol. New restaurants and hotels open here all the time.
Nerja is more diverse than many of the rival resorts—in addition to British accents, you’ll overhear French, German, Dutch, and Scandinavian languages being spoken on the beaches. There’s also a long tradition of Spanish people retiring and vacationing here. Pensioners from northern Spain move here—enjoying long life spans, thanks in part to the low blood pressure that comes from a diet of fish and wine. While they could afford to travel elsewhere, an inertia remains from Franco’s day, when people generally vacationed within the country. In summer, to escape the brutal heat of inland Spain, many Spanish moms take the kids to condos on the south coast while dads stay home to work. This is a time when husbands get to “be Rodriguez” (estar de Rodríguez), an idiom whose meaning ranges from “temporary bachelor” to “when the cat’s away, the mouse will play.”
The tourist center of Nerja is right along the water and crowds close to its famous bluff, the “Balcony of Europe” (Balcón de Europa). Fine strings of beaches flank the bluff, stretching in either direction. The old town is just inland from the Balcony, while the more modern section slopes up and away from the water.
The helpful English-speaking TI has bus schedules, tips on beaches and side-trips, and brochures for nearby destinations, such as the Caves of Nerja, Frigiliana, Málaga, and Ronda (July-Aug Mon-Sat 10:00-14:00 & 18:00-22:00, Sun 18:00-22:00; April-June and Sept-Oct Mon-Sat 10:00-14:00 & 17:00-21:00, Sun 10:00-14:00; Nov-March daily 10:00-14:00; 100 yards from the Balcony of Europe and half a block inland from the big church, tel. 952-521-531, www.nerja.org). Ask for a free city map and the Leisure Guide, which has a comprehensive listing of activities. Their Hiking the Sierra of Nerja and Cliffs of Maro booklet describes good local walks.
By Bus: The Nerja bus station is actually just a bus stop with an info kiosk on Avenida de Pescia (Mon-Tue and Fri 6:00-20:15, Wed-Thu and Sat-Sun 7:00-12:00 & 14:45-19:15, schedules posted, Alsa tel. 902-422-242, www.alsa.es). To travel from Nerja, buy tickets at the kiosk—don’t assume they’re available on the bus. Because many buses leave at the same times, arrive at least 15 minutes before departure to avoid having to elbow other tourists.
By Car: For the most central parking, follow Balcón de Europa signs, and then pull into the big underground parking lot beneath the Plaza de España (which deposits you 200 yards from the Balcony of Europe; €2.10/hour, €22.25/24 hours). The enormous Parking Carabeo, just east of the Balcony, is slightly cheaper (€1.80/hour, €18/24 hours). The handiest free parking is about a 10-minute walk farther out, next to the bridge over the dry riverbed (near the town bus stop, just off N-340). Street parking in Nerja is free and unlimited, but it’s very tight. If you do find a space, avoid parking next to yellow lines, and read signs carefully—on certain days of the month you’re required to move your car.
Internet Access: Nerja’s scenically situated Internet café, Europ@Web, is on a square overlooking Playa la Torrecilla, where Calle de Castilla Pérez meets Calle Málaga (€2.50/30 minutes, daily 10:00-21:00, until 24:00 in summer, tel. 952-526-147).
Laundry: Bubbles Burbujas is a full-service launderette run by friendly Jo from England (€6/small load, same-day service if you drop off in the morning, no self-service, Mon-Fri 9:00-17:00, Sat 9:00-13:00, closed Sun; a few blocks north of Plaza de Cavana at Calle Manuel Marín 1, just off Calle Granada—look for Pasaje Granada pedestrian passage on left, just past the Irish-Nordic Properties building, tel. 665-539-256).
British Media: For a taste of the British expat scene, pick up the monthly magazines Street Wise or Soltalk, or tune in to Coastline Radio at 97.6 FM.
Local Guide: Carmen Fernandez is good, with knowledge of the entire region (€125/5-hour day, mobile 610-038-437, mfeyus@yahoo.es).
Massage: Tiny yet muscular Marie, who moved here from France, runs a massage parlor out of her apartment. She does an excellent one-hour massage for €40 (€10 more on weekends)—just give her a call (Amarilys Masaje, Calle de Castilla Perez 10, mobile 667-825-828).
You can easily walk anywhere you need to go.
Nerja’s taxis are pricey—the in-town minimum is €6-7, even for a short trip. They don’t use meters—instead, most journeys have a set fee (e.g., €7 to Burriana Beach, €12 to Frigiliana, tel. 952-524-519 or 952-520-537).
To clip-clop in a horse-drawn buggy through town, it’s €35 for about 25 minutes (you’ll usually find these at the Plaza de los Cangrejos above Playa la Torrecilla).
▲▲Balcony of Europe (Balcón de Europa)
Coastal Promenade (Paseo de los Carabineros)
Calahonda Beach (Playa Calahonda)
Burriana Beach (Playa de Burriana)
Cantarriján Beach (Playa del Cantarriján)
Del Salón Beach (Playa del Salón)
▲Nerja Caves (Cuevas de Nerja)
The bluff, jutting happily into the sea, is completely pedestrianized. It’s the center of Nerja’s paseo and a magnet for street performers. The mimes, music, and puppets can draw bigger crowds than the Balcony itself, which overlooks the Mediterranean, miles of coastline, and little coves and caves below. A castle, and later a fort, occupied this spot from the ninth century until the earthquake of 1884. Now it’s a people-friendly view terrace.
Built in the early 1800s to defend against Napoleon, the English-Spanish fort here protected the harbor with the help of seven cannons. When the 1884 earthquake destroyed the castle and fort, it sent the cannons into the sea. A century later, two were salvaged, cleaned up, and placed here. Study the beautifully aged metal work.
The cute statue of King Alfonso XII reminds locals of how this popular sovereign—the great-grandfather of today’s King Juan Carlos—came here after the devastating earthquake (a huge number of locals had died). He mobilized the local rich to dig out the community and put things back together. Standing on this promontory amid the ruins of the earthquake-devastated castle, he marveled at the view and coined its now-famous name, Balcón de Europa.
The Nerja castle was part of a 16th-century lookout system. After the Christian Reconquista in 1492 drove Muslim Moors into exile, pirate action from Muslim countries in North Africa picked up. Lookout towers were stationed within sight of one another all along the coast. Warnings were sent whenever pirates threatened (smoke by day, flames by night). Look to the east—you can see three towers crowning bluffs in the distance.
Also to the east you can just see the tip of Burriana Beach. Spaniards love their chiringuitos, as local beach restaurants are called. The chiringuito immediately below you, Papagayo, is understandably popular.
Scan the horizon. Until recently this was a favored landing spot (just beyond the tighter security zone near Gibraltar) for illegal immigrants and drug runners coming in from Africa. Many Moroccan teens try to sneak into Europe here, as local laws prohibit turning away undocumented children (the police use DNA tests to determine the age of recent arrivals—if they’re under 18, they stay). Laws also grant automatic EU citizenship to anyone born in Europe, so many pregnant women try to slip in (once the baby’s born, the mother’s legal, too). However, illegal immigration is down: With the help of a new high-tech satellite-scanning system, the Guardia Civil can now detect floating objects as small as makeshift rafts and intercept them before they reach land.
Walk beneath the Balcony for views of the scant remains (bricks and stones) of the ninth-century Moorish castle. Locals claim an underground passage connected the Moorish fortress with the mosque that stood where the Church of San Salvador stands today.
Just a block inland from the Balcony, this church was likely built upon the ruins of a mosque (c. 1600). Its wooden ceiling is Mudejar—made by Moorish artisans working in Christian times. The woodworking technique is similar to that featured in the Alhambra in Granada. The modern fresco of the Annunciation (in the rear of the nave) is by Paco Hernandez, the top local artist of this generation. In front, on the right, is a niche featuring Jesus with San Isidoro (as a little boy). Isidoro is the patron saint of Madrid, Nerja, and farmers (sugarcane farming was the leading industry here before tourism hit). From the porch of the church, look inland to see City Hall, marked by four flags (Andalucía’s is green for olive trees and white for the color of the houses in this part of Spain).
This mildly interesting and slightly disjointed museum is a good option on a rainy day or if you’ve just had too much sun. It’s run in association with the Nerja Caves (see here), with exhibits focusing on the history of Nerja and the surrounding region, from prehistoric to modern times. Each of its four floors contains interactive exhibits and displays, including prehistoric tools, weapons, and a skeleton found within the Nerja Caves.
Cost and Hours: €4, €2 if also getting Nerja Caves ticket; July-Aug Tue-Sun 10:00-14:00 & 18:00-22:00, Sept-June Tue-Sun 10:00-14:00 & 16:00-18:30, closed Mon year-round; Plaza de España 4, tel. 952-527-224, www.cuevadenerja.es.
Nerja was essentially destroyed after the 1884 earthquake—and at the time there was little more here beyond the castle anyway—so there’s not much to see in the town itself. However, a few of its main streets are worth a quick look. From the Balcony of Europe head inland. Consider first grabbing some ice cream at El Valenciano Helados, a local favorite run by a Valencia family. Try the refreshing chufa-nut Valencian specialty called horchata.
A block farther inland, the old town’s three main streets come together. The oldest street, Calle Carabeo, heads off to your right (notice how buildings around here are wired on the outside). On the left, Calle Pintada heads inland. Its name means “the painted street,” as it was spiffed up in 1885 for the king’s visit. Today it’s the town’s best shopping street. And between those streets runs Calle Almirante Ferrándiz, Nerja’s restaurant row, which is particularly lively in the evenings.
The single best thing to do on a sunny day in Nerja is to hit the beach: swim, sunbathe, sip a drink, go for a hearty hike along the rocky coves...or all of the above.
Nerja’s many beaches are well-equipped, with bars and restaurants, free showers, and rentable lounge chairs and umbrellas (about €4/person for chair and umbrella, same cost for 10 minutes or all day). Nearby restaurants rent umbrellas, and you’re welcome to take drinks and snacks out to your spot. Spanish law requires that all beaches are open to the public (except the one in Rota, which is reserved for American soldiers). While there are some nudist beaches (such as Cantarriján, described on here), keep in mind that in Europe, any beach can be topless. During the summer, Spanish sun worshippers pack the beach from about 11:00 until around 13:30, when they move into the beach restaurants for relief from the brutal rays. Watch out for red flags on the beach, which indicate when the seas are too rough for safe swimming (blue = safe, orange = caution, red = swimming prohibited). Don’t take valuables to the beach, as thieves have fast fingers.
Beaches lie east and west of the Balcony of Europe. For each area, I’ve listed beaches from nearest to farthest. Even if you’re not swimming or sunbathing, walking along these beaches (and the trails that connect them, if open) is a delightful pastime.
One of Nerja’s most appealing draws has been the walkway called the Paseo de los Carabineros, which scampers up and down cliffs, just above the pebbles and sand, to connect the enticing beaches east of the Balcony. Unfortunately, due to erosion concerns and a lack of funds (and municipal motivation), the path has been closed for the past few years. For now, only the first little bit, to Calahonda Beach (described next), is completely open. To reach the other beaches east of the Balcony of Europe, you’ll have to walk through the modern town above the beaches...less fun.
To discourage people from using the Paseo de los Carabineros, city officials have erected concrete barriers in a few places along the walkway, removed guardrails (so in some cases you’re walking precariously along the cliffs), and allowed the path to become overgrown with plants. While it’s possible to follow this pathway at your own risk, it’s quite treacherous—in a couple of places you have to actually scale a wall. (Because the path closure is well-advertised at both ends, you’re completely liable if anything happens.) Gung-ho travelers still make this walk (I did...carefully), and in summer and at low tide, you can likely walk along the sand and pebbles around the giant rocks (slow going)—but it’s not recommended if a pleasant stroll is what you want. The good news is that plans are afoot to restore and reopen the Paseo de los Carabineros. Ask locally, but don’t be disappointed if this often-delayed project fails to materialize.
Directly beneath the Balcony of Europe (to the left as you face the sea) is one of Nerja’s most characteristic little patches of sun. This pebbly beach is full of fun pathways, crags, and crannies, and its humble Papagayo restaurant—one of my recommended eateries—is open all day. Antonio can be seen each morning working with his nets and sorting through his fish. His little pre-tourism beach hut—a stuccoed-and-whitewashed marshmallow bulge with blue trim burrowed into the cliff—is wonderfully photogenic. To get here from the Balcony, simply head down through the arch across from the El Valenciano Helados ice-cream stand...you’ll be on the beach in seconds.
Less developed than the others listed here, Carabeo is wedged into a cove between the bustling Calahonda and Burriana beaches. For many, its lack of big restaurants is a plus. If the Paseo de los Carabineros is closed, you can reach the beach by walking along Calle Carabeo and taking the stairs down from the viewpoint at the park.
Nerja’s leading beach is a 20-minute walk east from the Balcony of Europe. Big, bustling, crowded, and fun, it’s understandably a top attraction. Burriana is fun for families, with paddleboats, playgrounds, volleyball courts, and other entertainment options. The beach is also lined with a wide range of cafés and restaurants—but the best is the recommended Ayo’s, whose paella feast is a destination in itself (see listing on here).
Getting There: Assuming the Paseo de los Carabineros is closed, walk along Calle Carabeo. You’ll pass the viewpoint park with the stairs leading down to Carabeo Beach; keep going until you’re forced to jog left (up Cómpeta) into a dull modern part of town. You’ll see the boxy parador on your right; circle around behind it, following the low-profile signs for Playa Burriana (near the parador entrance) to the right. Curl around to the right, then twist down the switchback road to the beach. Or take a taxi for €7.
The only beach listed here not within easy walking distance of Nerja, this is the place if you’re craving a more desolate beach (and have a car). Drive about 4.5 miles (15 minutes) east (toward Herradura) to the Cerro Gordo exit, and follow Playa Cantarriján signs (paved road, just before the tunnel). Park at the viewpoint and hike 30 minutes down to the beach (or, in mid-June-Sept, ride the shuttle bus down). Down below, rocks and two restaurants separate two pristine beaches—one for people with bathing suits (or not); the other, more secluded, more strictly for nudists. As this beach is in a natural park and requires a long hike, it provides a fine—and rare—chance to experience the Costa del Sol in some isolation.
Unlike the walkways east of the Balcony, the promenades to the west are open for business—making this a delightful place to stroll.
The sandiest (and most crowded) beach in Nerja is down the walkway to the right of Cafetería Marissal, just west of the Balcony of Europe (to the right as you look out to sea). For great drinks with a view, stop by the recommended Cochran’s Terrace on the way down. Continuing farther west, you’ll reach another sandy beach, Playa la Torrecilla, at the end of Calle Málaga.
A short hike on a promenade west of Playa la Torrecilla, this beach is preferred by locals, as it’s less developed than the more central ones, offering a couple of miles of wide-open spaces that allow for fine walks and a chance to “breathe in the beach.”
These caves (2.5 miles east of Nerja, exit 295), with an impressive array of stalactites and stalagmites, are a classic roadside attraction. The huge caverns, filled with backlit formations, are a big hit with cruise-ship groups and Spanish families. The visit involves a 30-minute unguided ramble deep into the mountain, up and down 400 dark stairs. At the end you reach the Hall of the Cataclysm, where you’ll circle the world’s largest stalactite column (certified by Guinness Book of World Records). Someone figured out that it took one trillion drops to make the column.
The free exhibit in the Centro de Interpretación explains the cave’s history and geology (in house next to bus parking; exhibit in Spanish, but includes free English brochure).
Cost and Hours: €8.50, €6.50 if also getting Nerja Museum ticket, daily 10:00-14:00 & 16:00-18:30, July-Aug until 19:30, easy parking-€1/day, tel. 952-529-520, www.cuevadenerja.es.
Concerts: During the festival held here the third week of July, the caves provide a cool venue for hot flamenco and classical concerts (tickets sold out long in advance).
Services: The restaurant offers a view and three-course fixed-price meals for €10, and the picnic spot (behind the ticket office) offers pine trees, benches, and a kids’ play area.
Getting There: To reach the caves, catch a bus across the street from Nerja’s main bus stop (€1.05, 13/day, 10 minutes) or a taxi (€8 one-way).
The picturesque whitewashed village of Frigiliana (free-hee-lee-AH-nah), only four miles inland from Nerja, is easily reached by bus (€1, 9/day, none on Sun, 15 minutes) or taxi (€12 one-way). While it doesn’t match up to the striking white hill towns listed in the preceding chapter, its proximity to Nerja makes it an enticing side-trip if this is the nearest you’ll get to hill towns on your trip.
The bus stop is in the middle of town, on Plaza del Ingenio. This is also the point that separates the new town from the old town (the steep old Moorish quarter climbing the hill up ahead). The TI is a 100-yard walk uphill, in the new town (Mon-Fri 10:00-17:30, Sat-Sun 10:00-14:00 & 16:00-20:00, tel. 952-534-261, www.frigiliana.es). Pick up a map and the translations of the tile you’ll see displayed around town. The TI shares a building with the archaeological museum, with artifacts unearthed near Frigiliana; their prized piece is the fifth-century B.C. skull of a 10-year-old child (free, same hours as TI).
Focus your visit on the old town. Begin by climbing up to the terrace in front of the factory (ingenio)—the blocky, un-whitewashed, double-smokestack building that dominates the town. Dating from the 16th century, this still produces sugarcane honey. From the end of the terrace, hike up the steep street, bearing right at the fork up Calle Hernando el Darra. At #10 (on the right), notice the tile in the wall—the first in a series of a dozen around town that describe, in poetic Spanish, the story of the 1568 Battle of Peñón. At the next fork, bear right (uphill) on Calle Amargura and walk steeply uphill, enjoying the flowerpot-lined lane. Notice the distinctive traditional door-knockers, shaped like a woman’s hand. More common in Morocco, these are the “hand of Fatima”—the daughter of the Prophet Muhammad—and are intended to ward off evil.
After turning the corner, take the left/downhill road at the next fork, than head right up Calle Sta. Teresa de Ávila. Then head left down the steep, stepped Calle del Garral. You’ll pop out just below the main church. Before going there, detour a few steps to the right, then head left to Plaza de la Fuente Vieja—home of a 17th-century fountain that’s one of the town’s trademarks. Then head back up the way you came to find your way to the inviting café-lined plaza in front of the Church of San Antonio of Padua (with a stark interior). From here, you can follow the main drag back to where you entered town, or enjoy exploring Frigiliana’s back lanes.
Europeans visiting the region for a longer stay generally use Nerja as a base from which to hike. The TI can describe a variety of hikes. One of the most popular is a refreshing two-to-three-hour walk up a river (at first through a dry riverbed, and later up to your shins in water; 7.5 miles one-way). Another, more demanding hike takes you to the 5,000-foot summit of El Cielo for the most memorable king-of-the-mountain feeling this region offers.
Bar El Molino offers live Spanish folk singing nightly in a rustic cavern that’s actually an old mill—the musicians perform where the mules once tread. It’s touristy but fun (starts at 22:00 but pretty dead before 23:00, no cover—just buy a drink, Calle San José 4). The local sweet white wine, vino del terreno—made up the hill in Frigiliana—is popular here (€3/glass).
El Burro Blanco is a touristy flamenco bar that’s enjoyable and intimate, with shows nightly from 22:30. Keeping expectations pretty low, they advertise “The Best One in Nerja” (no cover—just buy a drink, live music Fri-Sat after flamenco, fewer shows off-season, on corner of Calle Pintada and Calle de la Gloria).
Bodega Los Bilbainos is a classic dreary old dive—a favorite with local men and communists (tapas and drinks, Calle Alejandro Bueno 8).
For more trendy and noisy nightlife, check out the Black and White Bar, with karaoke nightly, on Pintada (near El Burro Blanco at Calle Pintada 35) and the bars and dance clubs on Antonio Millón and Plaza Tutti Frutti.
The entire Costa del Sol is crowded during August and Holy Week (the week leading up to Easter), when prices are at their highest. Reserve in advance for peak season—basically mid-July through mid-September—which is prime time for Spanish workers to hit the beaches. Any other time of year, you’ll find that Nerja has plenty of comfy, easygoing low-rise resort-type hotels and rooms. Room rates are generally three-tiered: low season (Nov-March), middle season (April-June and Oct), and high season (July-Sept).
Compared to the pricier hotels, the better hostales are an excellent value. Hostal Don Peque, Hostal Miguel, and Pensión Mena are all within a few blocks of the Balcony of Europe.
Breakfast: Some hotels here overcharge for breakfast. Don’t hesitate to go elsewhere, as many places serve breakfast for more reasonable prices. For a cheap breakfast with a front-row view of the promenade action on the Balcony of Europe, head to Cafetería Marissal (in the recommended hostal of the same name) and grab a wicker seat under the palm trees (€4.50-5.50 options include English breakfasts, daily from 9:00). The recommended Papagayo serves breakfast on the beach, just below the Balcony of Europe, to those who don’t mind a little sand in their coffee (from 10:00). If you’re up for a short hike before breakfast, consider the recommended Ayo’s on Burriana Beach (daily from 9:00).
$$$ Hotel Balcón de Europa is the most central place in town. It’s right on the water and the square, with the prestigious address Balcón de Europa 1. It has 110 rooms with modern style, plus all the comforts—including a pool and an elevator down to the beach. It’s popular with groups. All the suites have seaview balconies, and most regular rooms also come with views (Sb-€84/96/125, standard Db-€115/135/165, about €30 extra for sea view and balcony, breakfast-€13.50, air-con, elevator, Wi-Fi, parking-€12/day, tel. 952-520-800, www.hotelbalconeuropa.com, reservas@hotelbalconeuropa.com).
$$$ Hotel Plaza Cavana, with 39 rooms, overlooks a plaza lily-padded with cafés. It feels a bit institutional, but if you’d like a central location, marble floors, modern furnishings, an elevator, and a small unheated rooftop swimming pool, dive in (Sb-€35-100, Db-€50-125, bigger superior Db-€10 more, Tb-20 percent more, Qb-30 percent more; 10 percent discount for Rick Steves readers for 1-to-2-night stays, 15 percent for stays of 3 nights or more, and free breakfast for those booking direct with this guidebook in 2014; some view rooms, air-con, elevator, pay guest computer, free Wi-Fi in lobby, second small unheated pool in basement, parking-€10-15/day, 2 blocks from Balcony of Europe at Plaza de Cavana 10, tel. 952-524-000, www.hotelplazacavana.es, info@hotelplazacavana.com).
$$$ Hotel Carabeo, a boutique-hotel splurge, has seven classy rooms on the cliff east of downtown—less than a 10-minute walk away, but removed from the bustle of the Balcony of Europe (non-view Db-€85-100; seaview Db-€160-205, price range depends on type of room, air-con, free Wi-Fi in lobby, Calle Carabeo 34, tel. 952-525-444, www.hotelcarabeo.com, info@hotelcarabeo.com). This is also home to the recommended Restaurant 34.
$$ Hostal Marissal has an unbeatable location next door to the fancy Balcón de Europa hotel, and 23 modern, spacious rooms with old-fashioned furniture and clever gadgets on the doors to prevent them from slamming. Some rooms have small view balconies overlooking the Balcony of Europe action. Their cafeteria and bar, run by helpful staff, make the Marissal even more welcoming (Sb-€30/35/45, Db-€40/50-60/60-70, apartment for up to 4 people-€80-160, breakfast-€4.50-5.50, double-paned windows, air-con, elevator, Wi-Fi, Balcón de Europa 3, reception at Marissal café, tel. 952-520-199, www.hostalmarissal.com, reservas@hostalmarissal.com).
$$ Hostal Don Peque sits in a dull urban zone an easy couple of blocks’ walk from the Balcony of Europe—but it compensates with 10 bright, colorful, and cheery rooms (8 with balconies—a few with sea views). Owners Roberto and Clara moved here from France and have infused the place with their personality. They rent beach equipment at reasonable prices, but their bar-terrace with rooftops-and-sea views may be more enticing (Sb-€35/55/75, Db-€40/65/85, Tb-€55/75/100, bunk-bed family room for up to 4-€15 more than Tb, breakfast-€6, air-con, thin walls, Wi-Fi, Diputación 13, tel. 952-521-318, www.hostaldonpeque.com, info@hostaldonpeque.com).
$ Hostal Miguel offers nine sunny and airy rooms in the heart of “Restaurant Row” (some street noise in front rooms). Breakfast is served on the pretty green terrace with mountain views. The owners—British expats Ian, Jane, and Hannah—are long-time Nerja devotees (Sb-€30-38, Db-€40-58, book direct for these prices, 4 percent more if paying with credit card, breakfast-€5, family suite, no air-con but fans and fridges, Wi-Fi in most rooms, laundry service-€5, beach equipment available on request, Almirante Ferrándiz 31, tel. 952-521-523, mobile 696-799-218, www.hostalmiguel.com, hostalmiguel@gmail.com).
$ Pensión Mena rents 11 nice rooms—four with seaview terraces (€7 extra and worth it)—and offers a quiet, breezy garden (Sb-€20-30, Db-€29-45, no breakfast, some street noise, Wi-Fi in lobby, El Barrio 15, tel. 952-520-541, www.hostalmena.es, info@hostalmena.es, María). The reception has limited hours (daily 9:30-13:30 & 17:00-20:30); if they’re closed when you arrive to check in, report to their sister hotel, Hotel Mena Plaza, a few blocks away at Plaza de España 2.
$ Hostal Lorca is located in a quiet residential area a five-minute walk from the center, three blocks from the bus stop, and close to a small, handy grocery store. Run by a friendly young Dutch couple, Femma and Rick, this hostal has nine modern, comfortable rooms and an inviting compact backyard with a terrace, a palm tree, and a small pool. You can use the microwave and take drinks (on the honor system) from the well-stocked fridge. This quiet, homey place is a winner (Sb-€25-34, Db-€29-55, extra bed-€12, no air-con but fans, Wi-Fi, look for yellow house at Mendez Nuñez 20, tel. 952-523-426, www.hostallorca.com, info@hostallorca.com).
There are three Nerjas: the private domain of the giant beachside hotels; the central zone, packed with fun-loving (and often tipsy) expats and tourists eating and drinking from trilingual menus; and the back streets, where local life goes on as if there were no tourists. The whole old town (around the Balcony of Europe) is busy with lively restaurants. Wander around and see who’s eating best.
To pick up picnic supplies, head to the Mercadona supermarket (Mon-Sat 9:15-21:15, closed Sun, inland from Plaza Ermita on Calle San Miguel).
(See “Nerja” map, here.)
Papagayo, a classic chiringuito (beach restaurant), lounges in the sand a few steps below the Balcony of Europe. You may be paying for the location, but it’s quite a location. They serve drinks and snacks to those enjoying their beach umbrellas (€2-8 breakfasts, €4-12 snacks and meals, open with demand, daily breakfast from 10:00, lunch 12:00-17:00, tel. 952-523-816, “moon beach parties” on summer evenings).
Cochran’s Terrace serves mediocre meals in a wonderful seaview setting, overlooking Del Salón Beach (€7-12 main dishes, open daily all day for drinks, 12:00-15:00 & 19:00-23:00 for meals, shorter hours off-season, just behind Hostal Marissal).
Restaurant 34, in Hotel Carabeo, manages white-tablecloth elegance in a relaxed atmosphere that successfully mixes eclectic antiques with modern accents. More tables sprawl outside, along the swimming pool and toward sweeping sea views (call ahead to reserve a seaview table). They offer inexpensive raciones—and a free tapa if you buy a drink in the bar. The staff is friendly, and the cuisine features seasonal local produce (€9-15 starters, €17-24 main dishes, €25 three-course fixed-price meal, Tue-Sun 12:30-15:30 & 19:00-late, closed Mon, Calle Carabeo 34, tel. 952-525-444).
(See “Nerja” map, here.)
Strolling up Calle Almirante Ferrándiz (which changes its name farther uphill to “Cristo”), you’ll find a good variety of eateries, albeit filled with tourists. On the upside, the presence of expats means you’ll find places serving food earlier in the evening than the Spanish norm.
Pepe Rico is the most romantic (in a schlocky adult-contemporary way) along this street, with a big terrace and a cozy dining room (€6-12 starters, €16-22 main dishes, €28 four-course meals, Mon-Sat 12:30-15:00 & 19:00-23:00, closed Sun, Calle Almirante Ferrándiz 28, tel. 952-520-247).
Pinocchio is the local family-friendly favorite for Italian (€7-9 pizzas and pastas, €12-18 fish and meat plates, daily 12:00-late, Calle Almirante Ferrándiz 51, tel. 952-527-248).
Haveli, run by Amit and his Swedish wife, Eva, serves good Indian food in an informal atmosphere. For more than two decades, it’s been a hit with Brits, who know their Indian food (€10-18 plates, daily 19:00-24:00 in summer, closed Mon off-season, Calle Almirante Ferrándiz 42, tel. 952-524-297).
Coach and Horses is a British pub run by no-nonsense expat Catherine. Although she serves the only real Irish steaks in town, she also caters to vegetarians, with daily specials that go beyond the usual omelet (€7-17 meals, daily 10:30-15:00 & 18:30-late, closed Mon off-season, Calle Almirante Ferrándiz 19, tel. 952-520-071).
El Pulguilla is a great, high-energy place for Spanish cuisine, fish, and tapas. Its two distinct zones (tapas bar up front and more formal restaurant out back) are both jammed with enthusiastic locals and tourists. The lively no-nonsense stainless-steel tapas bar doubles as a local pick-up joint later in the evening. Drinks come with a free small plate of clams, mussels, shrimp, chorizo sausage, or seafood salad. For a sit-down meal, head back to the gigantic terrace. Though not listed on the menu, half-portions (media-raciones) are available for many items, allowing you to easily sample different dishes (€10-16 dinners, Tue-Sun 12:30-16:00 & 18:30-23:30, closed Mon, Calle Almirante Ferrándiz 26, tel. 952-521-384).
(See “Nerja” map, here.)
A 10-minute gently uphill hike from the water takes you into the residential thick of things, where the sea views come thumbtacked to the walls, prices are lower, and locals fill the tables. The first three are tapas bars within a few blocks of one another. Each is a colorful local hangout with different energy levels on different nights. Survey all three before choosing one, or have a drink and tapa at each. These places are generally open all day for tapas and drinks, and serve table-service meals during normal dining hours. If you prefer a restaurant setting to a bar, try the last listing, La Taberna de Pepe.
Remember that in Nerja, tapas are snack-size portions, generally not for sale but free with each drink. To turn them into more of a meal, ask for the menu and order a full-size ración, or half-size media-ración. The half-portions are generally bigger than you’d expect.
El Chispa (a.k.a. Bar Dolores) is big on seafood, which locals enjoy on an informal terrace. Their tomate ajo (garlic tomato) is tasty, and their piping-hot berenjena (fried and salted eggplant) is worth considering—try it topped with molasses-like sugarcane syrup. They serve huge portions—media-raciones are enough for two (€5-12 raciones, daily, San Pedro 12, tel. 952-523-697).
La Puntilla Bar Restaurante is a boisterous little place, with rickety plastic furniture spilling out onto the cobbles on hot summer nights (generous €4-6 splittable salads, €3-6 half-raciones, €5-13 raciones, show this book and get a free digestivo, daily 12:00-24:00, a block in front of Los Cuñaos at Calle Bolivia 1, tel. 952-528-951).
Los Cuñaos hangs the banners of the entire soccer league on the walls. Local women hang out to chat, and kids wander around like it’s home. Although it has the least interesting menu, it has the most interesting business card (€6.50 meals, €16-17 two-person meals, €8 and €12 tapas plates come with a bottle of wine, closed Mon, Herrera Oria 19, tel. 678-663-997).
La Taberna de Pepe is more of a sit-down restaurant, though it does have a small bar with tapas. The tight, cozy (almost cluttered) eight-table interior is decorated with old farm tools and crammed with happy eaters choosing from a short menu of well-executed seafood. It feels classier than the rough-and-tumble tapas bars listed above, but isn’t pretentious (€6-15 dishes, Fri-Wed 12:15-16:00 & 19:00-24:00, closed Thu, Herrera Oria 30, tel. 952-522-195).
(See “Nerja” map, here.)
Ayo’s is famous for its character of an owner and its €6.50 beachside all-you-can-eat paella feast at lunchtime. For 30 years, Ayo—a lovable ponytailed bohemian who promises to be here until he dies—has been feeding locals. Ayo is a very big personality—one of the five kids who discovered the Nerja Caves, formerly a well-known athlete, and now someone who makes it a point to hire hard-to-employ people as a community service. The paella fires get stoked up at about noon and continue through mid-afternoon. Grab one of a hundred tables under the canopy next to the rustic open-fire cooking zone, and enjoy the beach setting in the shade with a jug of sangria. For €6.50, you can fill your plate as many times as you like. It’s a 20-minute walk from the Balcony of Europe, at the east end of Burriana Beach—look for Ayo’s rooftop pyramid (daily “sun to sun,” for breakfast—see below, paella served only at lunch, Playa de Burriana, tel. 952-522-289).
Breakfast at Ayo’s: Consider arriving at Ayo’s at 9:00. Locals order the tostada con aceite de oliva (toast with olive oil and salt-€0.50). Ayo also serves toasted ham-and-cheese sandwiches and good coffee.
While there are some handy direct bus connections from Nerja to major destinations, many others require a transfer in the town of Málaga. The closest train station to Nerja is in Málaga. Fortunately, connections between Nerja and Málaga are easy, and the train and bus stations in Málaga are right next to each other.
Almost all buses from Nerja are operated by Alsa (tel. 902-422-242, www.alsa.es), except the local bus to Frigiliana, which is run by Autocares Nerja (tel. 952-520-984). Remember to double-check the codes on bus schedules—for example, 12:00S means 12:00 daily except Saturday.
From Nerja by Bus to: Málaga (1-2/hour, 1 hour directo, 1.5 hours ruta, €4.30), Nerja Caves (13/day, 10 minutes), Frigiliana (9/day, none on Sun, 15 minutes), Granada (8/day, 2-2.5 hours, more with transfer in Motril), Córdoba (2/day, 4-5.5 hours), Sevilla (2/day, 4-5 hours), Algeciras (with connections to La Línea de la Concepción/Gibraltar and Tarifa; 1/day direct, 3.5 hours, more with transfer in Málaga; there are also connections to La Línea de la Concepción/Gibraltar and Tarifa via Málaga). To reach Ronda, you’ll transfer in Málaga.
To Málaga Airport (about 40 miles west): First catch the bus to Málaga (see above). To reach the airport from Málaga, take a local bus (about 2/hour, 30 minutes, €2, buy ticket on board) or train (2/hour, 30 minutes, €2.20; Málaga’s train station is a quick 5-minute walk across the street from the bus station). If you’d rather take a taxi from Nerja to the airport, figure on paying about €65, or ask your Nerja hotelier about airport shuttle transfers (airport code: AGP, tel. 952-048-804).
This seaside city’s busy airport is the gateway to the Costa del Sol. Málaga’s bus and train stations—a block apart at the western edge of Málaga’s town center—both have pickpockets and lockers (the train station’s lockers are more modern).
Málaga’s big, airy U-shaped bus station, on Paseo de los Tilos, has long rows of counters for the various bus companies. In the center of the building is a helpful info desk that can print out schedules for any destination and point you to the right ticket window (daily 7:00-22:00, tel. 952-350-061, www.estabus.emtsam.es). Flanking the information desk on either side are old-fashioned lockers (buy a €3.20 token, or ficha, from the automated machine). The station also has several basic eateries, newsstands, and WCs. The train station is just a five-minute walk away: Exit at the far corner of the bus station, cross the street, and enter the big shopping mall labeled Estación María Zambrano—walk a few minutes through the mall to the train station.
The train station (Estación María Zambrano) is slick and modern, inside a big shopping mall (with a food court upstairs). Modern lockers are by the entrance to tracks 10-11 (€3-5 depending on size, security checkpoint), and car-rental offices are by the entrance to tracks 1-9 (Hertz, Avis, Europcar, and National/Atesa). A TI kiosk is in the main hall, just before the shopping mall. To reach the bus station (5 minutes away on foot), enter the mall by the TI kiosk and follow signs to estación de autobuses.
From Málaga by Bus to: Nerja (1-2/hour, 1 hour directo, 1.5 hours ruta, Alsa), Ronda (directo buses by Los Amarillos: 10/day Mon-Fri, 6/day Sat-Sun, 1.75-2 hours; avoid the ruta buses by Portillo: 2/day, 4 hours), Algeciras (hourly, 2.25 hours directo, 3 hours ruta, Portillo), La Línea de Concepción/Gibraltar (5/day, 3 hours, Portillo), Tarifa (2-3/day, 2.5-4 hours, Portillo), Sevilla (6/day direct, 2.5-3 hours, Alsa), Granada (hourly, 1.5-2 hours, Alsa), Córdoba (4/day, 2.5-3.5 hours directo, Alsa), Madrid (5/day, 6 hours, Daibus), Marbella (hourly, 55 minutes directo, 1.25 hours ruta, Portillo). Bus info: Alsa (tel. 902-422-242, www.alsa.es), Los Amarillos (tel. 902-210-317, www.losamarillos.es), Daibus (tel. 902-277-999, www.daibus.es), Portillo (tel. 902-450-550, http://portillo.avanzabus.com).
From Málaga by Train to: Ronda (1/day, 2 hours, more with transfer in Bobadilla), Algeciras (4/day, 4 hours, transfer in Bobadilla—same as Ronda train, above), Madrid (12/day, 2.5-3 hours on AVE), Córdoba (best option: 6/day on Avant, 1 hour; more expensive but no faster on AVE: 10/day, 1 hour), Granada (6/day, 2.5 hours, 1 transfer—bus is better), Sevilla (6/day, 2 hours on Avant; 5/day, 2.5 hours on slower regional trains), Jerez (3/day on AVE and Avant, 3-3.5 hours, transfer in Córdoba), Barcelona (2/day direct on AVE, 5.75 hours; more with transfer). Train info: tel. 902-320-320, www.renfe.com.
Buses take five hours to make the Nerja-Gibraltar trip, including a transfer in Málaga, where you may have to change bus companies. Along the way, buses stop at each of the following towns (see map on here).
The most built-up part of the region, where those most determined to be envied settle down, is a bizarre world of Scandinavian package tours, flashing lights, pink flamenco, multilingual menus, and all-night happiness. Fuengirola is like a Spanish Mazatlán with a few older, less-pretentious budget hotels between the main drag and the beach. The water here is clean and the nightlife fun and easy. James Michener’s idyllic Torremolinos has been strip-malled and parking-metered.
This is the most polished and posh town on the Costa del Sol. High-priced boutiques, immaculate streets set with intricate pebble designs, and beautifully landscaped squares testify to Marbella’s arrival on the world-class-resort scene. Have a café con leche on the beautiful Plaza de Naranjos in the old city’s pedestrian section. Wander down to new Marbella and the high-rise beachfront apartment buildings to walk along the wide promenade lined with restaurants. Check out the beach scene. Marbella is an easy stop on the Algeciras-Málaga bus route (as you exit the bus station, take a left to reach the center of town). You can also catch a handy direct bus here from the Málaga airport (roughly every 1-2 hours, fewer off-season, 45 minutes, http://portillo.avanzabus.com).
This town’s relatively undeveloped sandy beach is popular with young travelers. San Pedro’s neighbor, Puerto Banús, is “where the world casts anchor.” This luxurious, Monaco-esque jet-set port, complete with casino, is a strange mix of Rolls-Royces, yuppies, boutiques, rich Arabs, and budget browsers.
One of the last bits of the empire upon which the sun never set, Gibraltar is a quirky mix of Anglican propriety, “God Save the Queen” tattoos, English bookstores, military memories, and tourist shops. It’s understandably famous for its dramatic Rock of Gibraltar, which rockets improbably into the air from an otherwise flat terrain, dwarfing everything around it. If the Rock didn’t exist, some clever military tactician would have tried to build it to keep an eye on the Strait of Gibraltar.
Britain has controlled this highly strategic spit of land since they took it by force in 1704, in the War of Spanish Succession. In 1779, while Britain was preoccupied with its troublesome overseas colonies, Spain (later allied with France) declared war and tried to retake Gibraltar; a series of 14 sieges became a way of life, and the already imposing natural features of the Rock were used for defensive purposes. During World War II, the Rock was further fortified and dug through with more and more strategic tunnels. In the mid- to late-20th century, during the Franco period, tensions ran high—and Britain’s grasp on the Rock was tenuous.
Strolling Gibraltar, you can see that it was designed as a modern military town (which means it’s not particularly charming). But over the last 20 years the economy has gone from one dominated by the military to one based on tourism (as, it seems, happens to many empires). On summer days and weekends, the tiny colony is inundated by holiday-goers, primarily the Spanish (who come here for tax-free cigarettes and booze) and British (who want a change in weather but not in culture). As more and more glitzy high-rise resorts squeeze between the stout fortresses and ramparts—as if trying to create a mini-Monaco—there’s a sense that this is a town in transition.
Though it may be hard to imagine a community of 30,000 that feels like its own nation, real Gibraltarians, as you’ll learn when you visit, are a proud bunch. They were evacuated during World War II, and it’s said that after their return, a national spirit was forged. If you doubt that, be here on Gibraltar’s national holiday—September 10—when everyone’s decked out in red and white, the national colors.
Gibraltarians have a mixed and interesting heritage. Spaniards call them Llanitos (yah-NEE-tohs), meaning “flat” in Spanish, though the residents live on a rock. The locals—a fun-loving and tolerant mix of British, Spanish, and Moroccan, virtually all of whom speak the Queen’s English—call their place “Gib.”
From a traveler’s perspective, Gibraltar—with its quirky combination of Brits, monkeys, and that breathtaking Rock—is an offbeat detour that adds some variety to a Spanish itinerary. If you’re heading to Gibraltar from Spain (as you almost certainly are), be aware most Spaniards still aren’t thrilled with this enclave of the Commonwealth on their sunny shores. They basically ignore the place—so, for example, if you’re inquiring about bus schedules, don’t ask how to get to Gibraltar, but rather to La Línea de la Concepción, the neighboring Spanish town. A passport is required to cross the border.
Make Gibraltar a day trip (or just one overnight); rooms are expensive compared to Spain.
For the best day trip to Gibraltar, consider this plan: Walk across the border, catch the red bus #5, and ride it to the Market Square stop near Casemates Square. From there, catch blue bus #2 or walk through town to the cable-car station and ride to the peak for Gibraltar’s ultimate top-of-the-rock view. Then, either walk down or take the cable car back into town. From the cable-car station, follow my self-guided town walk all the way back to Casemates Square. Spend your remaining free time in town before returning to Spain. Note that, with all the old walls and fortresses, Gibraltar can be tricky to navigate. Ask for directions: Locals speak English.
Tourists who stay overnight find Gibraltar a peaceful place in the evening, when the town can just be itself. No one’s in a hurry. Families stroll, kids play, seniors window-shop, and everyone chats...but the food is still pretty bad.
There’s no reason to take a ferry from Gibraltar to visit Morocco—for many reasons, it’s a better side-trip from Tarifa (specifics covered on here).
Gibraltar is a narrow peninsula (three miles by one mile) jutting into the Mediterranean. Virtually the entire peninsula is dominated by the steep-faced Rock itself. The locals live down below in the long, skinny town at the western base of the mountain (much of it on reclaimed land).
For information on all the little differences between Gibraltar and Spain—from area codes to electricity—see “Helpful Hints,” later.
Spain has been annoyed about Gibraltar ever since Great Britain nabbed this prime 2.5-square-mile territory in 1704 (during the War of Spanish Succession) and was granted it through the Treaty of Utrecht in 1713. Although Spain long ago abandoned efforts to reassert its sovereignty by force, it still tries to make Gibraltarians see the error of their British ways. Over the years Spain has limited Gibraltar’s air and sea connections, choked traffic at the three-quarter-mile border, and even messed with the local phone system in efforts to convince Britain to give back the Rock. Still, given the choice—which they got in referenda in 1967 and 2002—Gibraltar’s residents steadfastly remain Queen Elizabeth’s loyal subjects, voting overwhelmingly (99 percent in the last election) to continue as a self-governing British dependency. Gibraltar’s governor is popular for dealing forcefully and effectively with Spain on these issues.
Gibraltar’s helpful TI is at Casemates Square, the grand square at the Spain end of town. Pick up a free map and—if it’s windy—confirm that the cable car is running (Mon-Fri 9:00-17:30, Sat 10:00-15:00, Sun 10:00-13:00, tel. 74982, www.visitgibraltar.gi). There’s also a TI window at the border in the customs building (Mon-Fri 9:00-16:30, closed Sat-Sun).
No matter how you arrive, you’ll need your passport to cross the border. These directions will get you as far as the border; from there, see “Getting from the Border into Town,” later.
By Bus: Spain’s La Línea de la Concepción bus station is a five-minute walk from the Gibraltar border. To reach the border, exit the station and bear left toward the Rock (you can’t miss it). If you need to store your bags, you can do so at the Gibraltar Airport (see “Helpful Hints,” later).
By Car: Customs checks at the border create a bit of a bottleneck for drivers. But at worst there’s a 15-minute wait during the morning rush hour into Gibraltar and the evening rush hour back out. Parking in town is free and easy except for weekday working hours, when it’s tight and frustrating. It’s simpler to park in La Línea (explained below) and just walk across the border.
Freeway signs in Spain say Algeciras and La Línea, pretending that Gibraltar doesn’t exist until you’re very close. After taking the La Línea-Gibraltar exit off the main Costa del Sol road, continue as the road curves left (with the Rock to your right). Enter the left-hand lane at the traffic circle before the border and you’ll end up in La Línea. The Fo-Cona underground parking lot is handy (€2.40/hour, €16.50/day, on Avenida 20 de Abril, near the bus station). You’ll also find blue-lined parking spots in this area (€1.25/hour from meter, 6-hour limit 9:00-20:00, free before and after that, bring coins, leave ticket on dashboard). From La Línea, it’s a five-minute stroll to the border, where you can catch a bus or taxi into town (see “Getting from the Border into Town,” below).
If driving into Gibraltar, drive along the sea side of the ramparts (on Queensway—but you’ll see no street name). There are big parking lots here and at the cable-car terminal. Parking is generally free—if you can find a spot. By the way, while you’ll still find English-style roundabouts, cars here stopped driving on the British side of the road in the 1920s.
The “frontier” (as the border is called) is a chaotic hubbub of travel agencies, confused tourists, crafty pickpockets, and duty-free shops (you may see people standing in long lines, waiting to buy cheap cigarettes). The guards barely even look up as you flash your passport. Before exiting the customs building, pick up a map at the TI window on your left (Mon-Fri 9:00-16:30, closed Sat-Sun). Note that as soon as you cross the border, the currency changes from euros to pounds (see “Helpful Hints,” next).
To reach downtown, you can walk (30 minutes), catch a bus, or take a taxi. To get into town by foot, walk straight across the runway (look left, right, and up), then head down Winston Churchill Avenue, angling right at the Shell station on Smith Dorrien Avenue.
From the border, you can ride the red bus #5 (regular or London-style double-decker, runs every 15 minutes) three stops to Market Square (just outside Casemates Square, with the TI), or stay on to Cathedral Square, at the center of town. From Market Square, blue Gibraltar city buses head various points on the peninsula—the most useful route for most tourists is blue bus #2, which goes to the cable-car station and Europa Point (Gibraltar’s southernmost point). Tickets are the same price on the privately run red border buses and the blue city buses (€1.30/£1 one-way, €2/£1.50 for an all-day “hoppa” ticket)—although frustratingly, tickets are not transferable between the two systems.
A taxi from the border is pricey (€9/£6 to the cable-car station). If you plan to join a taxi tour up to the Rock (see here), note that you can book one right at the border.
Gibraltar Isn’t Spain: Gibraltar, a British colony, uses different coins, currency (see below), stamps, and phone cards than those used in Spain. Note that British holidays such as the Queen’s (official) Birthday (June 9 in 2014) and Bank Holidays (May 5, May 26, and Aug 25 in 2014) are observed, along with local holidays such as Gibraltar’s National Day (Sept 10).
Use Pounds, not Euros: Gibraltar uses the British pound sterling (£1 = about $1.60). A pound is broken into 100 pence (abbreviated p). Like other parts of the UK (such as Scotland, Wales, and Northern Ireland), Gibraltar mints its own Gibraltar-specific banknotes and coins featuring local landmarks, people, and historical events—offering a colorful history lesson. Gibraltar’s pounds are interchangeable with other British pounds.
Merchants in Gibraltar also accept euros...but at about a 20 percent extra cost to you. Gibraltar is expensive even at fair exchange rates. You’ll save money by hitting up an ATM and taking out what you’ll need. But before you leave, stop at an exchange desk and change back what you don’t spend (at about a 5 percent loss), since Gibraltar currency is hard to change in Spain. (If you’ll be making only a few purchases, you can try to avoid this problem by skipping the ATM and buying things with your credit card.) Be aware that if you pay for anything in euros, you may get pounds back in change.
Hours: This may be the United Kingdom, but Gibraltar follows a siesta schedule, with some businesses closing from 13:00 to 15:00 on weekdays, and shutting down at 14:00 on Saturdays until Monday morning.
Electricity: If you have electrical gadgets, note that Gibraltar uses the British three-pronged plugs (not the European two-pronged ones). Your hotel may be able to loan you an adapter.
Phoning: To telephone Gibraltar from anywhere in Europe, dial 00-350-200 and the five-digit local number. To call Gibraltar from the US or Canada, dial 011-350-200-local number.
Internet Access: The King’s Bastion Leisure Centre has free Wi-Fi, but no terminals (see ”Activities,” next page). Café Cyberworld has several computers (£0.10/minute, £2.50/30 minutes, £4.50/hour, daily 12:00-24:00, Queensway 14, in Ocean Heights Gallery, an arcade 100 yards toward the water from Casemates Square, tel. 51416). There’s also Internet access at the cultural center, listed below.
Baggage Storage: You can’t store your luggage at the bus station, but there is a bag check at the Gibraltar Airport, which is right across the border (£8/day, go to airport information desk in departures hall).
John Mackintosh Cultural Centre: This is your classic British effort to provide a cozy community center. Without a hint of tourism, the upstairs library welcomes drop-ins to enjoy local newspapers and publications, and to check their email (Mon-Fri 9:30-19:30, closed Sat-Sun, 308 Main Street, tel. 75669).
Activities: The King’s Bastion Leisure Centre fills an old fortification (the namesake bastion) with a modern entertainment complex. On the ground floor is a huge bowling alley; upstairs are an ice-skating rink and a three-screen cinema (www.leisure cinemas.com). Rounding out the complex are bars, restaurants, discos, and lounges. Many of the activities are geared for families, especially tweens and teens. It’s easy to find, just outside Cathedral Square (daily 10:00-24:00, air-con, free Wi-Fi, tel. 44777).
Side-Trip to Tangier, Morocco: While a very sporadic ferry does run from Gibraltar directly to Tangier, it’s designed for Moroccan workers (returning home to Tangier for the weekend) and doesn’t work for a same-day round-trip. Instead, either go via Tarifa (best choice, with direct connections to downtown Tangier—see here) or via Algeciras (closer to Gibraltar, but ferries drop you at a port farther from downtown Tangier). Various travel agencies in town sell package tours that include a bus transfer to the boat in Algeciras.
Gibraltar town is long and skinny, with one main street (called Main Street). Stroll the length of it from the cable-car station to Casemates Square, following this little tour. A good British pub and a room-temperature pint of beer await you at the end.
From the cable-car terminal, turn right (as you face the sea) and head into town. Soon you’ll come to the Trafalgar cemetery, a reminder of the colony’s English military heritage. Next you come to the Charles V wall—a reminder of its Spanish military heritage—built in 1552 by the Spanish to defend against marauding pirates. Gibraltar was controlled by Moors (711-1462), Spain (1462-1704), and then the British (since 1704). Passing through the Southport Gates, you’ll see one of the many red history plaques posted about town.
Heading into town, you pass the tax office, then the John Mackintosh Cultural Centre, which has Internet access and a copy of today’s Gibraltar Chronicle upstairs in its library. The Chronicle comes out Monday through Friday and has covered the local news since 1801. The Methodist church sponsors the recommended Carpenter’s Arms tearoom.
The pedestrian portion of Main Street begins near the Governor’s Residence. The British governor of Gibraltar took over a Franciscan convent, hence the name of the local white house: The Convent. The Convent Guard Room, facing the Governor’s Residence, is good for photos.
Gibraltar’s courthouse stands behind a small tropical garden, where John and Yoko got married back in 1969 (as the ballad goes, they “got married in Gibraltar near Spain”). Sean Connery did, too. Actually, many Brits like to get married here because weddings are cheap, fast (only 48 hours’ notice required), and legally recognized as British.
Main Street now becomes a shopping drag. You’ll notice lots of colorful price tags advertising tax-free booze, cigarettes, and sugar (highly taxed in Spain). Lladró porcelain, while made in Valencia, is popular here (because it’s sold without the hefty Spanish VAT—Value-Added Tax). The Catholic cathedral retains a whiff of Arabia (as it was built upon the remains of a mosque), while the big Marks & Spencer department store helps vacationing Brits feel at home.
Continue several more blocks through the bustling heart of Gibraltar. If you enjoy British products, this is your chance to stock up on Cadbury chocolates, digestive biscuits, wine gums, and Weetabix—but you’ll pay a premium, since it’s all “imported” from the UK.
The town (and this walk) ends at Casemates Square. While a lowbrow food circus today, it originated as a barracks and place for ammunition storage. When Franco closed the border with Spain in 1969, Gibraltar suffered a labor shortage, as Spanish guest workers could no longer commute into Gibraltar. The colony countered by inviting Moroccan workers to take their place—ending a nearly 500-year Moroccan absence, which began when the Moors fled in 1462. As a result, today’s Moroccan community dates only from the 1970s. Whereas the previous Spanish labor force simply commuted into work, the Moroccans needed apartments, so Gibraltar converted the Casemates barracks for that purpose. Cheap Spanish labor has crept back in, causing many locals to resent store clerks who can’t speak proper English.
At the far end of Casemates Square is a crystal shop that makes its own crystal right there (you can watch). They claim it’s the only thing actually “made in Gibraltar.” But just upstairs, on the upper floor of the barracks, you’ll find a string of local crafts shops.
If you go through the triple arches at the end of the square (behind the TI), you’ll reach the covered produce market and food stalls. Across the busy road a few minutes’ walk farther is the well-marked entrance to the Ocean Village boardwalk and entertainment complex (described later, under “Eating in Gibraltar”).
Built atop a Moorish bath, this museum tells the story of a chunk of land that has been fought over for centuries. Start with the fine 15-minute video overview of the story of the Rock—a worthwhile prep for the artifacts (such as ancient Roman anchors made of lead) you’ll see in the museum. Then wander through the scant remains of the 14th-century Moorish baths. Upstairs you’ll see military memorabilia, a 15-foot-long model of the Rock, wonderful century-old photos of old Gibraltar, paintings by local artists, and, in a cave-like room off the art gallery, a collection of prehistoric remains and artifacts. The famous skull of a Neanderthal woman found in Forbes’ Quarry is a copy (the original is in the British Museum in London). Found in Gibraltar in 1848, this was the first Neanderthal skull ever discovered. No one realized its significance until a similar skull found years later in Germany’s Neanderthal Valley was correctly identified—stealing the name, claim, and fame from Gibraltar.
Cost and Hours: £2, Mon-Fri 10:00-18:00, Sat 10:00-14:00, closed Sun, last entry 30 minutes before closing, no photos, on Bomb House Lane near the cathedral.
The actual Rock of Gibraltar is the colony’s best sight. Its attractions include the stupendous view from the very top, quirky apes, a hokey cave (St. Michael’s), and the impressive Siege Tunnels drilled through the rock face for military purposes. Frankly, the sights that charge admission aren’t that exciting; the Rock’s best attractions—enjoying views from the top and seeing the monkeys—are free. Hikers can ride the lift up and take a long, steep, scenic walk down, connecting the various sights by strolling along paved military lanes.
Cost: There’s a £0.50 fee to enter the grounds of the Rock, technically called the Upper Rock Nature Reserve—that’s just to walk around and enjoy the views and the monkeys. A £10 nature reserve ticket is required to visit any or all of these major sights within the reserve: St. Michael’s Cave, Siege Tunnels, Moorish Castle, Military Heritage Centre, and City Under Siege exhibit (includes the £0.50 nature reserve entrance fee). If you take a taxi tour, entry to the nature reserve and sights is included; if you ride the cable car, the nature reserve grounds entry fee is included, but you’ll have to buy the £10 ticket to go in the sights. (Both options are explained below.)
Hours: Daily 9:30-19:15, until 18:15 late Oct-late March, last entry 30 minutes before closing.
Additional Sights at the Rock: Two attractions at the Rock are not part of the official £10 nature reserve ticket, and have their own separate tickets and hours: O’Hara’s Battery and the World War II Tunnels (both described later).
Visiting the Rock: You have two options for touring the Rock—take a taxi tour or ride the cable car. The taxi tour includes entry to St. Michael’s Cave and the Siege Tunnels, a couple of extra stops, and running commentary from your licensed cabbie/guide. Because the cable car doesn’t get you very close to the cave and tunnels (and doesn’t cover cave and tunnel admission), take the taxi tour if you’ll be visiting these sights and don’t want to walk. On the other hand, the cable car takes you to the very top of the Rock (which the taxi tours don’t). You can still see the sights, but you’ll have to pay for an entry ticket and connect them by foot (not a bad thing—it’s a pleasant walk down). Both options are explained in more detail below.
There’s no reason to take a big-bus tour (advertised and sold all over town) considering how fun and easy the taxi tours are. Private cars are not allowed high on the Rock.
By Taxi Tour: Minibuses driven by cabbies trained and licensed to lead these 1.5-hour trips are standing by at the border and at various points in town (including Cathedral Square, John Mackintosh Square, Casemates Square, and Trafalgar Cemetery near the cable-car station). They charge £22/person (4-person minimum, or £65 for only 2 people in one taxi, includes reserve sights ticket, tel. 70027). Taxi tours and big buses do the same 1.5-hour loop tour with four stops: a Mediterranean viewpoint (called the Pillar of Hercules), St. Michael’s Cave (15-minute visit), a viewpoint near the top of the Rock where you can get up close to the monkeys, and the Siege Tunnels (20-minute visit). Buddy up with other travelers and share the cost.
By Cable Car to the Summit: A ticket for just the cable car is £8.50 one-way and £10.50 round-trip. The £18.50 Nature Reserve ticket (combining a one-way cable-car ride and the £10 ticket to the sights) doesn’t save any money over buying the tickets separately. You’ll probably want to skip the €20.50 round-trip option, as I recommend walking downhill to the sights rather than taking the cable car down.
The cable car runs every 10-15 minutes, or continuously in busy times (daily from 9:30; April-Oct last ascent at 19:15, last descent at 19:45; Nov-March last ascent at 17:15, last descent at 17:45). Lines can be long if a cruise ship is in town. The cable car won’t run if it’s windy or rainy; if the weather is questionable, ask at the TI before heading to the station. The cable-car ride includes a handheld videoguide that explains what you’re seeing from the spectacular viewpoints (pick it up at the well-marked booth when you disembark at the top—must leave ID as a deposit—and return it before leaving the summit). In winter (Nov-March), the cable car stops halfway down for those who want to get out, gawk at the monkeys, and take a later car down—but you’ll probably see monkeys at the top anyway.
To take in all the sights, you’ll want to hike down, rather than take the cable car back (be sure to specify that you want a one-way ticket up). Simply hiking down without visiting the sights is enjoyable, too. Approximate hiking times: from the top of the cable car to St. Michael’s Cave—25 minutes; from the cave to the Apes’ Den—20 minutes; from the Apes’ Den to the Siege Tunnels—30 minutes; from the tunnels back into town, passing the Moorish Castle—20 minutes. Total walking time, from top to bottom: about 1.5 hours (on paved roads with almost no traffic), not including sightseeing. For hikers, I’ve connected the dots with directions below.
The cable car takes you to the real highlight of Gibraltar: the summit of the spectacular Rock itself. (Taxi tours don’t go here; they stop on a ridge below the summit, where you enjoy a commanding view—but one that’s nowhere near as good.) The limestone massif, or large rock mass, is nearly a mile long, rising 1,400 feet high with very sheer faces. According to legend, this was one of the Pillars of Hercules (paired with Djebel Musa, another mountain across the strait in Morocco), marking the edge of the known world in ancient times. Local guides say that these pillars are the only places on the planet where you can see two seas and two continents at the same time.
In a.d. 711, the Muslim chieftain Tarik ibn Ziyad crossed over from Africa and landed on the Rock, beginning the Moorish conquest of Spain and naming the Rock after himself—Djebel-Tarik (“Rock of Tarik”), which became “Gibraltar.”
At the top of the Rock (the cable-car terminal) there’s a view terrace and a restaurant. From here you can explore old ramparts and drool at the 360-degree view of Morocco (including the Rif Mountains and Djebel Musa), the Strait of Gibraltar, the bay stretching west toward Algeciras, and the twinkling Costa del Sol arcing eastward. The views are especially crisp on brisk off-season days. Below you (to the east) stretches the giant catchment system that the British built to collect rainwater in the not-so-distant past, when Spain allowed neither water nor tourists to cross its disputed border. Broad sheets catch the rain, sending it through channels to reservoirs located inside the rock.
• Up at the summit, you’ll likely see some of the famed...
The Rock is home to about 200 “apes” (actually, tailless Barbary macaques—a type of monkey). Taxi tours come with great monkey fun, but if you’re on your own, you’ll probably see them at the top and at various points on the walk back down (basically, the monkeys congregate anywhere that tourists do—hoping to get food). The males are bigger, females have beards, and newborns are black. They live about 15-20 years. Legend has it that as long as the monkeys remain here, so will the Brits. (According to a plausible local legend, when word came a few decades back that the ape population was waning, Winston Churchill made a point to import reinforcements.) Keep your distance from the monkeys. (Guides say that for safety reasons, “They can touch you, but you can’t touch them.” And while guides feed them, you shouldn’t—it disrupts their diet.) Beware of the monkeys’ kleptomaniac tendencies; they’ll ignore the peanut in your hand and claw after the full bag in your pocket. Because the monkeys associate plastic bags with food, keep your bag close to your body: Tourists who wander by absentmindedly, loosely clutching a bag, are apt to have it stolen by a purse-snatching simian. If there’s no ape action, wait for a bananatoting taxi tour to stop by and stir some up. Guides love to get the monkeys to actually climb onto the backs and shoulders of their tour members—always a crowd-pleaser.
• If you’re hiking down, you’ll find that your options are clearly marked at most forks. I’ll narrate the longest route down, which passes all the sights en route.
From the top cable-car station, exit and head downhill on the well-paved path (toward Africa). You’ll pass the viewpoint for taxi tours (with monkeys hanging around, waiting for tour groups to come feed them), pass under a ruined observation tower, and eventually reach a wide part of the road. Most visitors will want to continue to St. Michael’s Cave (skip down to that section), but you also have an opportunity to hike (or ride a shuttle bus) steeply up to...
At 1,400 feet, this is the actual highest point on the Rock. A massive 9.2-inch gun sits on the summit, where a Moorish lookout post once stood. The battery was built after World War I, and the last test shot was fired in 1974. Locals are glad it’s been mothballed—during test firings, they had to open their windows, which might otherwise have shattered from the pressurized air blasted from this gun. The battery was recently opened to the public; you can go inside to see not only the gun, but also the powerful engines underneath that were used to move and aim it. The iron rings you see every 30 yards or so along the military lanes around the Rock once anchored pulleys used to haul up guns like the huge one at O’Hara’s Battery.
Cost and Hours: £3.50, not covered by the £10 nature reserve ticket, shuttle runs up every 20 minutes when open, Mon-Fri 10:30-17:00, closed Sat-Sun.
• From the crossroads below O’Hara’s Battery, taking the right (downhill) fork leads you down to a restaurant and shop, then the entrance to...
Studded with stalagmites and stalactites, eerily lit, and echoing with classical music, this cave is dramatic, corny, and slippery when wet. Considered a one-star sight since Neolithic times, these caves were alluded to in ancient Greek legends—when the caves were believed to be the Gates of Hades (or the entrance of a tunnel to Africa). All taxi tours stop here (entry included in cost of taxi tour). This sight requires a long walk for cable-car riders (who must have the £10 nature reserve ticket to enter; same hours as other nature reserve sights). Walking through takes about 15 minutes; you’ll pop out at the gift shop.
• From here, most will head down to the Apes’ Den (see next paragraph), but serious hikers have the opportunity to curl around to Jews’ Gate at the tip of the Rock, then circle around the back of the Rock on the strenuous Mediterranean Steps (leading back up to O’Hara’s Battery). To do this, turn sharply left after St. Michael’s Cave and head for Jews’ Gate. Since it’s on the opposite side from the town, it’s the closest thing in Gibraltar to “wilderness.” If this challenging 1.5-to-2-hour hike sounds enjoyable, ask for details at the TI.
The more standard route is to continue downhill. At the three-way fork, you can take either the middle fork (more level) or the left fork (hillier, but you’ll see monkeys at the Apes’ Den) to the Siege Tunnels. The Apes’ Den, at the middle station for the cable car, is a scenic terrace where monkeys tend to gather, and where taxi tours stop to do some monkeying around.
Continue on either fork (they converge), following signs for Siege Tunnels, for about 30 more minutes. Eventually you’ll reach a terrace with three flags (from highest to lowest: United Kingdom, Gibraltar, EU) and a fantastic view of Gibraltar’s airport, “frontier” with Spain, and the Spanish city of La Línea de la Concepción. From here, the Military Heritage Centre is beneath your feet (described later), and it’s a short but steep hike up to the...
Also called the Upper Galleries, these chilly tunnels were blasted out of the rock by the Brits during the Great Siege by Spanish and French forces (1779-1783). The clever British, safe inside the Rock, wanted to chip and dig to a highly strategic outcrop called “The Notch,” ideal for mounting a big gun. After blasting out some ventilation holes for the miners, they had an even better idea: Use gunpowder to carve out a whole network of tunnels with shafts that would be ideal for aiming artillery. Eventually they excavated St. George’s Hall, a huge cavern that housed seven guns. These were the first tunnels inside the Rock; more than a century and a half later, during World War II, 30 more miles of tunnels were blasted out. Hokey but fun dioramas help recapture a time when Brits were known more for conquests than for crumpets. All taxi tours stop here (entry included in cost of taxi tour); hikers must have the £10 nature reserve ticket to enter (same hours as other nature reserve sights).
• Hiding out in the bunker below the three flags (go down the stairs and open the heavy metal door—it’s unlocked) is the...
This small one-room collection features old military photographs from Gibraltar. The second room features a poignant memorial to the people who “have made the supreme sacrifice in defence of Gibraltar” (covered by nature reserve ticket—but tickets rarely checked, same hours as other nature reserve sights).
• From here, the road switchbacks down into town. At each bend in the road you’ll find one of the next three sights.
This hokey exhibit is worth a quick walk-through if you’ve been fascinated by all this Gibraltar military history. Displayed in some of the first British structures built on Gibraltar soil, it re-creates the days of the Great Siege, which lasted for more than three and a half years (1779-1783)—one of 14 sieges that attempted but failed to drive the Brits off the Rock. With evocative descriptions, some original “graffiti” scratched into the wall by besieged Gibraltarians, and some borderline-hokey dioramas, the exhibit explains what it was like to live on the Rock, cut off from the outside world, during those challenging times (covered by nature reserve ticket—but tickets rarely checked, same hours as other nature reserve sights).
This privately run operation takes you on a tour through some of the tunnels carved out of the Rock during a much later conflict than the others described here. You’ll emerge back up at the Military Heritage Centre.
Cost and Hours: £8, not covered by £10 nature reserve ticket, daily 10:00-16:30.
Actually more a tower than a castle, this recently restored building is basically an empty shell. (In the interest of political correctness, the tourist board recently tried to change the name to “Medieval Castle”...but it is Moorish, so the name didn’t stick.) It was constructed on top of the original castle built in A.D. 711 by the Moor Tarik ibn Ziyad, who gave his name to Gibraltar.
• The tower marks the end of the Upper Rock Nature Reserve. Heading downhill, you begin to enter the upper part of modern Gibraltar. While you could keep on twisting down the road, keep an eye out for staircase shortcuts into town (most direct are the well-marked Castle Steps).
If you’re coming from the late-night bustle of Spain, where you’ll see young parents out strolling with their toddlers at midnight, you’ll find Gibraltar extremely quiet after-hours. Main Street is completely dead (with the exception of a few lively pubs, mostly a block or two off the main drag). Head instead to the Ocean Village complex, a five-minute walk from Casemates Square, where the boardwalk is lined with bars, restaurants, and a casino. Another waterfront locale—a bit more sedate—is the Queensway Quay Marina. (Both areas are described later, under “Eating in Gibraltar.”) Kids love the King’s Bastion Leisure Centre (described earlier, under “Helpful Hints”).
Some pubs, lounges, and discos—especially on Casemates Square—offer live music (look around for signs, or ask at the TI). O’Callaghan Eliott Hotel hosts free live jazz on Thursday evenings.
Gibraltar is not a good value for accommodations. There are only a handful of hotels and (disappointingly) no British-style B&Bs. As a general rule, the beds are either bad or overpriced. Remember, you’ll pay a 20 percent premium if paying with euros—pay with pounds or by credit card. As an alternative, consider staying at one of my recommended accommodations in La Línea de la Concepción, across the border from Gibraltar in Spain, where hotels are a much better value.
$$$ O’Callaghan Eliott Hotel, with four stars, boasts a rooftop pool with a view, a fine restaurant, bar, terrace, inviting sit-a-bit public spaces, and 122 modern, mildly stylish business-class rooms—all with balconies (sky-high rack rates of Db-£240-270, but often around Db-£100 with online booking for non-peak days, breakfast-£15, non-smoking, air-con, elevator, pay Wi-Fi, parking-£12/day, centrally located at Governor’s Parade 2, up Library Street from main drag, tel. 70500, www.ocallaghanhotels.com, eliott@ocallaghanhotels.com).
$$$ Bristol Hotel offers 60 basic, slightly worn English rooms in the heart of Gibraltar (Sb-£69-74, Db-£86-93, Tb-£99-103, higher prices for exterior rooms, breakfast-£6, air-con, elevator, free Wi-Fi in lobby, swimming pool; limited free parking—first come, first served; Cathedral Square 10, tel. 76800, www.bristolhotel.gi, reservations@bristolhotel.gi).
$$ Cannon Hotel is a run-down dive. But it’s also well-located and has the only cheap hotel rooms in town. Its 18 rooms (most with wobbly cots and no private bathrooms) look treacherously down on a little patio (S-£30, D-£42, Db-£53, T-£52.50, Tb-£60, includes full English breakfast, free Wi-Fi, behind cathedral at Cannon Lane 9, tel. 51711, www.cannonhotel.gi, cannon@sapphirenet.gi).
$ Emile Hostel, simple and the cheapest place in town, welcomes people of any age (42 beds, bunk in 6-bed dorm-£18, S-£25, D-£40, à la carte breakfast—full English is £3.95, cash only, free Wi-Fi, on Montagu Bastion diagonally across the street from Shell station, ramped entrance on Line Wall Road, tel. 51106, www.emilehostel.net, emilehostel@yahoo.co.uk).
Staying in Spain—in the border town of La Línea de la Concepción—offers an affordable, albeit less glamorous alternative to sleeping in Gibraltar. The streets north of the bus station are lined with inexpensive hostales and restaurants. These options are just a few blocks from the La Línea bus station and an easy 10-15 minute walk to the border—get directions when you book. All but Asur Campo are basic, family-run hostales, offering simple, no-frills rooms at a good price.
$$ Asur Campo de Gibraltar is a huge blocky building, with 227 cookie-cutter rooms spread over seven floors. It’s a big, impersonal, business-class hotel, but it’s the closest hotel to the border—just a 10-minute walk and easy to find if you have a car, as it’s right on the main road as you drive in (Sb-€59/64/89, Db-€66/71/96, check website for deals, includes breakfast, air-con, elevator, pay Wi-Fi, pool, large patio, underground parking-€6/day, located at the intersection of Avenida Príncipe de Asturias and Avenida del Ejército, tel. 956-691-211, www.campodegibraltarhotel.com, lalinea@asurhoteles.com).
$ Hostal La Campana has 17 recently remodeled rooms at budget prices. Run by Ivan and his dad Andreas, this place is simple, clean, and friendly, but lacks indoor public areas except for its recommended restaurant (Sb-€27-42, Db-€36-48, Tb-€45-56, Qb-€52-64, air-con, elevator, free Wi-Fi, limited free street parking, pay parking in nearby underground garage-€18/day, just off Plaza de la Constitución at Calle Carboneros 3, tel. 956-173-059, www.hostalcampana.es, info@hostalcampana.es).
$ Hostal Margarita is a bit farther from the border, but its fresh, modern rooms are a step above the other hostales in the area (Sb-€41-46, Db-€53-60, air-con, elevator, free Wi-Fi, parking-€6.60/day, Avenida de España 38, tel. 856-225-211, www.hostalmargarita.com, info@hostalmargarita.com).
Take a break from jamón and sample some English pub grub: fish-and-chips, meat pies, jacket potatoes (baked potatoes with fillings), or a good old greasy English breakfast. English-style beers include chilled lagers and room-temperature ales, bitters, and stouts. In general, the farther you venture away from Main Street, the cheaper and more local the places become. Since budget-priced English food isn’t exactly high cuisine, the best plan may be to stroll the streets and look for the pub with the ambience you like best (various options: lots of chatting, sports fans riveted to a football match, noisy casino machines, or whatever). I’ve listed a few of my favorites below. Or venture to one of Gibraltar’s more upscale recent developments at either end of the old town: Ocean Village or Queensway Quay.
(See “Gibraltar Town” map, here.)
The Clipper pub offers filling £7 meals and Murphy’s stout on tap (English breakfast-£5, Mon-Fri 9:30-22:00, Sat 9:30-16:00, Sun 10:00-22:30, on Irish Town Lane, tel. 79791).
The Star Bar, which brags that it’s “Gibraltar’s Oldest Bar,” is on a quiet street with a pubby interior and good £6-9 plates (Mon-Sat 7:00-23:30, Sun 7:00-22:00, food served daily until 22:00, on Parliament Lane off Main Street, across from Corner House Restaurant, tel. 75924).
Carpenter’s Arms is a fast, cheap-and-cheery café run by the Methodist church, serving snacks and meals starting at £3 with a missionary’s smile. It’s upstairs in the Methodist church on Main Street (Mon-Fri 9:30-14:00, closed Sat-Sun and Aug, volunteer-run, 100 yards past the Governor’s Residence at 297 Main Street).
Gaucho’s is a classy, atmospheric steakhouse actually inside the casemates, just outside Casemates Square (£5-8 starters, £16-24 steaks, daily 12:00-16:00 & 19:00-23:00, Waterport Casemates, tel. 59700).
Casemates Square Food Circus: The big square at the entrance of Gibraltar contains a variety of restaurants, ranging from fast food (fish-and-chips joint, Burger King, and Pizza Hut) to inviting pubs spilling out onto the square. The All’s Well pub serves £8-10 meals (Moroccan tajine, salads, burgers, fish-and-chips, and more) and offers pleasant tables with umbrellas under leafy trees (daily 10:00-19:00, tel. 72987). Fruit stands and cheap take-out food stalls bustle just outside the entry to the square at the Market Place (Mon-Sat 9:00-14:00, closed Sun).
Groceries: The Bon Bon Cash & Carry minimarket is on the main drag, off Cathedral Square (daily 9:30-19:00, Main Street 239). Nearby, Marks & Spencer has a small food market on the ground floor, with pre-made meals and fresh-baked cookies (Mon-Thu 9:00-19:00, Fri 11:00-18:00, Sat 9:30-17:00, closed Sun).
(See “Gibraltar Town” map, here.)
This development is the best place to get a look at the bold new face of Gibraltar. Formerly a dumpy port, it’s been turned into a swanky marina fronted by glassy high-rise condo buildings. The boardwalk arcing around the marina is packed with shops, restaurants, and bars—Indian, Mexican, sports bar, pizza parlor, Irish pub, fast food, wine bar, and more. Anchoring everything is Gibraltar’s casino. While the whole thing can feel a bit corporate, it offers an enjoyable 21st-century contrast to the “English village” vibe of Main Street (which can be extremely sleepy after-hours).
(See “Gibraltar Town” map, here.)
To dine in yacht-club ambience, stroll the marina and choose from a string of restaurants serving the boat-owning crowd. When the sun sets, the quay-side tables at each of these places are prime dining real estate. Waterfront Restaurant has a lounge-lizard interior and great marina-side tables outside (£5-8 starters, £10-16 main dishes, daily specials, Indian and classic British, daily 9:00-24:00, last orders at 22:45, tel. 45666). Other options include Indian, Italian, trendy lounges, and (oh, yeah) Spanish.
(See “Gibraltar” map, here.)
These places are close to my recommended accommodations in La Línea, on the Spanish side of the border.
Restaurante La Campana, attached to the recommended hostal of the same name, is particularly good. It’s popular with locals for its traditional Spanish dishes made using quality ingredients and offered at affordable prices (€9 fixed-price lunch and dinner menus daily, Calle Carboneros 3).
Tahj Mahal, an Indian/Pakistani restaurant, offers a welcome relief from tapas. It serves all the standard Indian dishes, including several vegetarian options, along with a daily €5 combo-plate that’s a great deal (just across from the La Línea TI on Plaza de la Constitución and Avenida del Ejército).
On Calle Real: This pedestrian street, several blocks north of the La Línea bus station, is lined with inexpensive cafeterias, restaurants, and tapas bars.
The nearest bus station to Gibraltar is in La Línea de la Concepción in Spain, five minutes from the border (tel. 956-291-168 or 956-172-396). The nearest train station is at Algeciras, which is the region’s main transportation hub (for Algeciras connections, see here).
From La Línea de la Concepción by Bus to: Algeciras (2/hour, less on weekends, 45 minutes), Tarifa (2/day direct, 1 hour; more possible with change in Algeciras, 1.5 hours), Málaga (5/day, 3 hours), Ronda (no direct bus, transfer in Algeciras; Algeciras to Ronda: 1/day, 2.75 hours), Granada (3/day, 6-7 hours, change in Algeciras), Sevilla (4/day, 4-4.5 hours), Jerez (1/day, 2.5 hours), Córdoba (1/day, 5.25 hours), Madrid (1/day, 8 hours).
From Gibraltar, you can fly to various points in Britain: British Airways flies to London Heathrow (www.ba.com); easyJet connects to London Gatwick and Liverpool (www.easyjet.com); and Monarch Airlines goes to London Luton and Manchester (www.monarch.co.uk). The airport is easy to reach; after all, you can’t enter town without crossing its runway, one way or another (airport code: GIB, www.gibraltarairport.gi).
Mainland Europe’s southernmost town is whitewashed and Arab-feeling, with a lovely beach, an old castle, restaurants swimming in fresh seafood, inexpensive places to sleep, enough windsurfers to sink a ship, and best of all, hassle-free boats to Morocco. Though Tarifa is pleasant, the main reason to come here is to use it as a springboard to Tangier, Morocco—a remarkable city worth ▲▲.
As I stood on Tarifa’s town promenade under the castle, looking out at almost-touchable Morocco across the Strait of Gibraltar, my only regret was that I didn’t have this book to steer me clear of gritty Algeciras on earlier trips. Tarifa, with 35-minute boat transfers to Tangier departing about every hour, is the best jumping-off point for a Moroccan side-trip, as its ferry route goes directly to Tangier’s city-center Medina Port. (The other routes, from Algeciras or Gibraltar, take you to the Tangier MED Port, 25 miles east of Tangier city.) For details on joining an easy belly-dancing-and-shopping excursion-type tour of Tangier from Tarifa, or taking the ferry on your own, see the Tangier chapter (here).
Tarifa has no blockbuster sights (and can be quiet off-season), but it’s a town where you just feel good to be on vacation. Don’t expect a snazzy Riviera-style beach resort, à la Nerja. Tarifa is a functional, dreary-in-parts port city with an atmospheric old town and a long, broad stretch of relatively undeveloped but wildly popular sandy beach. The town is a hip and breezy mecca among windsurfers, drawn here by the strong winds created by the bottleneck at the Strait of Gibraltar. Tarifa is mobbed with young German and French adventure seekers in July and August. This crowd from all over Europe (and beyond) makes Tarifa one of Spain’s trendiest-feeling towns. It has far more artsy boutique hotels than most Spanish towns its size, and its restaurant offerings are atypically eclectic for normally same-Jane Spain—you’ll see vegetarian and organic, Italian and Indian, gourmet burgers and tea houses, and on each corner, it seems, there’s a stylish bar-lounge with techno music, mood lighting, and youthful Europeans just hanging out.
The old town, surrounded by a wall, slopes gently up from the water’s edge (and the port to Tangier). The modern section stretches farther inland from Tarifa’s fortified gate.
The TI is on Paseo de la Alameda (Mon-Fri 10:00-13:30 & 16:00-18:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-13:30; hours may be longer in summer and shorter on slow or bad-weather days, tel. 956-680-993, www.aytotarifa.com, turismo@aytotarifa.com).
Experiencia Tarifa: This organization, run by can-do Quino of the recommended Hostal Alborada, produces a good free magazine and town map featuring hotels, restaurants, and a wide array of activities (also online at www.experienciatarifa.com).
By Bus: The bus station (actually a couple of portable buildings with an outdoor sitting area) is on Batalla del Salado, about a five-minute walk from the old town. (The TI also has bus schedules.) Buy tickets directly from the driver if the ticket booth is closed (Mon-Fri 7:30-12:30 & 14:15-18:00, Sat-Sun 14:00-20:00, hours vary slightly with the season, bus station tel. 956-684-038, Comes bus company tel. 956-291-168). To reach the old town, walk away from the wind turbines perched on the mountain ridge.
By Car: If you’re staying in the center of town, follow signs for Alameda or Puerto, and continue along Avenida de Andalucía. Follow signs to make an obligatory loop to the port entrance, then swing right and park for free in the lot at the far end of Calle Alcalde Juan Núñez (on the harbor, at the base of the castle). During the busiest summer months (July-Aug), this parking lot can fill up, in which case you’ll need to use a pay lot, such as the one to the east of the old-town wall (ask your hotelier for ideas). Or you can try finding street parking, which is most abundant in the new town just north of the old-town walls. Blue lines indicate paid parking, and yellow lines are no-parking areas.
Internet Access: Pandor@, in the heart of the old town, has 16 computers across from Café Central, near the church (€2.50/hour, generally daily in summer 10:00-23:00, in winter 10:00-14:30 & 17:00-19:00, tel. 956-680-816).
Laundry: Top Clean Tarifa will wash, dry, and fold your clothes. If you drop off your laundry early in the day, they can get it back to you on the same day (€13/load wash-and-dry, full service only, Mon-Fri 10:00-16:00, closed Sat-Sun, Avenida de Andalucía 24, tel. 956-680-303).
Tickets and Tours to Morocco: Two ferry companies—FRS and InterShipping—make the crossing between Tarifa and Tangier. You can buy tickets for either boat at the port. FRS also has a couple of offices in town (see here for information on buying ferry tickets). If taking a tour to Tangier, you can book through a ferry company, your hotel, or one of several travel agencies in Tarifa (for details, see here).
Excursions: Girasol Adventure offers a variety of outdoor excursions, including mountain-bike rentals (€18/day with helmet), guided bike tours, hikes in the national park, rock-climbing classes, tennis lessons, and, when you’re all done...a massage (€50/hour). The various activities generally last a half-day and cost around €25-35. Ask Sabine or Chris for details (Mon-Fri 10:00-14:00 & 18:30-20:30, Sat 11:00-14:00, closed Sun, Calle Colón 12, tel. 956-627-037, www.girasol-adventure.com).
Tarifa’s most important church, facing its main drag, is richly decorated for being in such a small town. Most nights, it seems life squirts from the church out the front door and into the fun-loving Calle Sancho IV El Bravo. Wander inside.
Cost and Hours: Free, daily 9:00-13:00 & 17:30-20:30; there may be English-language leaflets inside on the right.
Visiting the Church: Find the fragment of an ancient tombstone—a tiny square (eye-level, about the size of this book) in the wall just before the transept on the right side. Probably the most important historical item in town, this stone fragment proves there was a functioning church here during Visigothic times, before the Moorish conquest. The tombstone reads, in a kind of Latin Spanish (try reading it), “Flaviano lived as a Christian for 50 years, a little more or less. In death he received forgiveness as a servant of God on March 30, 674. May he rest in peace.” If that gets you in the mood to light a candle, switch on an electric “candle” by dropping in a coin. (It works.) A bit closer to the main entrance, you’ll see a sign offering you the chance to light a digital candle by sending a text message (for a pricey €1.50).
Step into the side chapel around the corner, in the right transept. The centerpiece of the altar is a boy Jesus. By Andalusian tradition, he used to be naked, but these days he’s clothed with outfits that vary with the Church calendar. Underneath the dome, cherubs dance around on the pink-and-purple interior above an exquisite chandelier.
Head back out into the main nave, and face the high altar. A statue of St. James the Moor-Slayer (missing his sword) is on the right wall of the main central altar. Since the days of the Reconquista, James has been Spain’s patron saint. For more on this important figure—and why he’s fighting invaders that came to Spain centuries after his death—see here.
The left side of the nave harbors several statues—showing typically over-the-top Baroque emotion—that are paraded through town during Holy Week. The Captive Christ (with hands bound) evokes a time when Christians were held captive by Moors. The door on the left side of the nave is the “door of pardons.” For a long time Tarifa was a dangerous place—on the edge of the Reconquista. To encourage people to live here, the Church offered a second helping of forgiveness to anyone who lived in Tarifa for a year. One year and one day after moving to Tarifa, they would have the privilege of passing through this special “door of pardons,” and a Mass of thanksgiving would be held in that person’s honor.
This castle, little more than a concrete hulk in a vacant lot, is interesting only for the harbor views from its ramparts (the interior is undergoing a lengthy restoration and will most likely be closed for several years). It was named after a 13th-century Christian general who gained fame in a sad show of courage while fighting the Moors. Holding Guzmán’s son hostage, the Moors demanded he surrender the castle or they’d kill the boy. Guzmán refused, even throwing his own knife down from the ramparts. It was used on his son’s throat. Ultimately, the Moors withdrew to Africa, and Guzmán was a hero. Bueno.
Cost and Hours: €2; May-Sept Tue-Sat 11:00-14:00 & 18:00-20:00, Sun 11:00-14:00; Oct-April Tue-Sat 11:00-14:00 & 16:00-18:00, Sun 11:00-14:00; closed Mon year-round, last entry 30 minutes before closing.
Nearby: If you skip the castle, you’ll get equally good views from the plaza just left of the town hall. Follow ayto signs to the ceramic frog fountain in front of the Casa Consistorial and continue left.
Tarifa has a third-rate bullring where novices botch fights on occasional Saturdays through the summer. Professional bullfights take place during special events in August and September. The ring is a short walk from town. You’ll see posters everywhere.
Several companies in Tarifa offer daily whale- and dolphin-watching excursions. Over the past four decades, people in this area went from eating whales to protecting them and sharing them with 20,000 visitors a year. Talks are under way between Morocco and Spain to protect the Strait of Gibraltar by declaring it a national park.
For any of the tours, it’s wise (but not always necessary) to reserve one to three days in advance. You’ll get a multilingual tour and a two-hour boat trip. Sightings occur on nearly every trip: Dolphins and pilot whales frolic here any time of year (they like the food), sperm whales visit from March through July, and orcas pass through in July and August. In bad weather, trips may be canceled or boats may leave instead from Algeciras (in which case, drivers follow in a convoy, people without cars usually get rides from staff, and you’ll stand a lesser chance of seeing whales).
The best company is the Swiss nonprofit FIRMM (Foundation for Information and Research on Marine Mammals), which gives a 30-minute educational talk before departure. To reserve, it’s best to call ahead or stop by one of their two offices (€30/person, 1-5 trips/day April-Oct, sometimes also Nov, also offers intensive week-long courses that include boat trips, one office around the corner from Café Central—one door inland at Pedro Cortés 4, second office inside the ferry port, tel. 956-627-008, mobile 619-459-441, www.firmm.org, mail@firmm.org). If you don’t see any whales or dolphins on your tour, you can join another trip for free.
Whale Watch Tarifa is another good option. In addition to a two-hour whale-watching trip (€30), they offer a three-hour orca trip in July and August (€45, Avenida de la Constitución 6, tel. 956-627-013, mobile 639-476-544, www.whalewatchtarifa.net, whalewatchtarifa@whalewatchtarifa.net, run by Lourdes).
Extending out between Tarifa’s port and beaches, this island connected by a spit is the actual “southernmost point in mainland Europe.” Walk along the causeway, with beaches stretching to your right and a bustling port to your left, to the tip, which was fortified in the 19th century to balance the military might of Britain’s nearby Rock of Gibraltar. The actual tip, still owned by the Ministry of Defense, is closed to the public, but a sign at the gate still gives you that giddy “edge of the world” feeling.
Tarifa’s vast, sandy beach stretches west for about five miles. You can walk the beach from Tarifa, while those with a car can explore farther (following Cádiz Road). On windy summer days, the sea is littered with sprinting windsurfers, while kitesurfers flutter in the sky. Paddleboarding is also popular here. It’s a fascinating scene: A long string of funky beach resorts is packed with vans and fun-mobiles from northern Europe under mountain ridges lined with modern energy-generating windmills. The various resorts each have a sandy access road, parking, a cabana-type hamlet with rental gear, beachwear shops, a bar, and a hip, healthy restaurant. I like Valdevaqueros beach (five miles from Tarifa), with a wonderful thatched restaurant serving hearty salads, paella, and burgers. Camping Torre de la Peña also has some fun beach eateries.
In July and August, inexpensive buses do a circuit of nearby campgrounds, all on the waterfront (€2, departures about every 1-2 hours, confirm times with TI). Trying to get a parking spot in August can take the joy out of this experience.
You’ll find plenty of enjoyable nightspots—the entire town seems designed to cater to a young, international crowd of windsurfers and other adventure travelers. Just stroll the streets of the old town and dip into whichever trendy lounge catches your eye. For something more sedate, the evening paseo fills the park-like boulevard called Paseo de la Alameda (just outside the old-town wall); the Almedina bar hosts flamenco shows every Thursday (at the south end of town, just below Plaza de Santa María); and the theater next to the TI sometimes has musical performances (ask at the TI or look for posters).
Room rates vary with the season. For many hotels, I’ve listed the three seasonal tiers (lowest prices—winter; medium prices—spring and fall; and highest prices—mid-June-Sept).
These hotels are about five blocks from the old town, right off the main drag, Batalla del Salado, in the plain, modern part of town. While in a drab area, both are well-run oases that are close to the beach and the bus station, with free and easy street parking.
$$ Hostal Alborada is a squeaky-clean, family-run 37-room place with two attractive courtyards and modern conveniences. Father Rafael—along with sons Quino (who speaks English and is generous with travel tips), Fali, and Carlos—are happy to help make your Morocco tour or ferry reservation, or arrange any other activities you’re interested in. If they’re not too busy, they’ll even give you a free lift to the port (Sb-€40/60/65, Db-€50/70/90, Tb-€80/90/110, pay for first night when reserving, 10 percent discount when you book direct and show this book in 2014—not valid July-Sept, strict 15-day cancellation policy, basic breakfast-€2.50, larger breakfast with delicious tomato bread-€5, air-con, pay guest computer, free Wi-Fi, laundry-€14, Calle San José 40, tel. 956-681-140, www.hotelalborada.com, info@hotelalborada.com).
$$ Hotel La Mirada, which feels sleek and stark, has 25 mod and renovated rooms—most with sea views at no extra cost. While the place lacks personality, it’s well-priced and comfortable (Sb-€45/55/60, Db-€65/75/90, breakfast-€5, elevator, free Wi-Fi, expansive sea views from large roof terrace with inviting lounge chairs, Calle San Sebastián 41, tel. 956-684-427, www.hotel-lamirada.com, reservas@hotel-lamirada.com, Antonio and Salvador).
The first three listings are funky, stylish boutique hotels in the heart of town—muy trendy and a bit full of themselves.
$$$ La Sacristía, formerly a Moorish stable, now houses travelers who want stylish surroundings. It offers 10 fine and uniquely decorated rooms, mingling eclectic elements of chic Spanish and Asian style. They offer spa treatments, custom tours of the area, and occasional special events—join the party since you won’t sleep (Db-€117, superior Db-€137, extra bed-€35, can be cheaper off-season, includes breakfast, air-con, massage room, sauna, small roof terrace, very central at San Donato 8, tel. 956-681-759, www.lasacristia.net, tarifa@lasacristia.net, helpful Serafín and Sandra). They also rent 10 apartments at a separate location.
$$$ Casa Blan+co, where minimalist meets Moroccan, is the newest reasonably priced designer hotel on the block. Each of its seven rooms (with double beds only—no twins) is decorated (and priced) differently. The place is decked out with practical amenities (mini-fridge and stovetop) as well as romantic touches—loft beds, walk-in showers, and subtle lighting (high-season Db-€92-133, low-season Db-€52-69, small roof terrace, free Wi-Fi in lobby, off main square at Calle Nuestra Señora de la Luz 2, tel. 956-681-515, www.casablanco.es, info@casablanco.es).
$$$ Hotel Misiana has 15 comfortable, recently remodeled, spacious rooms above a bar-lounge. Their designer gave the place a mod pastel boutique-ish ambience. To avoid noise from the lounge below (open until 3:00 in the morning), request a room on a higher floor (Sb-€50/75/115, Db-€75/110/140, fancy top-floor Db suite-€200/230/300, low- and mid-season rates are €10-20 more on weekends, includes breakfast, double-paned windows, elevator, free Wi-Fi, 100 yards directly in front of the church at Calle Sancho IV El Bravo 16, tel. 956-627-083, www.misiana.com, info@misiana.com).
$$$ Dar Cilla Guesthouse & Apartments is an old Moroccan-style dar (or guest house), built into the town wall and remodeled into eight chic apartments surrounding a communal courtyard. Each apartment has a kitchen and is decorated in modern Moroccan style, with earth-tone walls, tile floors, and Moroccan rugs (Sb-€50/55/65, Db-€100/110/130, superior Db-€120/130/165, Qb-€190/210/240, extra person-€25, 2-night minimum, bigger rooms have air-con, free Wi-Fi, large roof terrace with beautiful view over the old town to the sea, just east of the old-town gate at Calle Cilla 7, tel. 653-467-025, www.darcilla.com, info@darcilla.com).
$$ La Casa Amarilla (“The Yellow House”) offers 10 posh apartments with tiny kitchens, plus three smaller studios with modern decor (studio Db-€52/77/105, apartment Db-€70/100/120, reserve with credit card, free Wi-Fi, across street from Café Central, Calle Sancho IV El Bravo 9, tel. 956-681-993, www.lacasaamarilla.net, info@lacasaamarilla.net).
$$ Hostal La Calzada has eight airy, well-appointed rooms right in the lively old-town thick of things, though the management is rarely around (Db-€50-105, higher in Aug, extra bed-€20, closed Dec-March, air-con, free Wi-Fi in lobby, 20 yards from church at Calle Justino Pertinez 7, tel. 956-681-492, www.hostallacalzada.com, info@hostallacalzada.com).
$$ Hostal Alameda, overlooking a square where the local children play, glistens with pristine marble floors and dark red decor. The main building has 11 bright rooms and the annex has 16 more-modern rooms; both face the same delightful square (Db-€60/70/90, extra bed-€25-35, air-con, free Wi-Fi, Paseo de la Alameda 4, tel. 956-681-181, www.hostalalameda.com, reservas@hostalalameda.com, Antonio).
$$ Hostal Africa, with 13 bright rooms and an inviting roof terrace, is buried on a very quiet street in the center of town. Its dreamy blue-and-white color scheme and stripped-down feel give it a Moorish ambience (S-€20/25/35, Sb-€25/35/50, D-€30/40/50, Db-€35/50/65, Tb-€50/75/100, laundry-€10, free Wi-Fi on terrace, storage for boards and bikes, Calle María Antonia Toledo 12, tel. 956-680-220, mobile 606-914-294, www.hostalafrica.com, hostal_africa@hotmail.com, Miguel and Eva keep the reception desk open only 9:00-24:00).
$$ Pensión Correo rents nine simple rooms (three sharing two bathrooms, one available with kitchen during high season) at a fair value. Room 8 has a private roof terrace, and rooms 6 and 7 have gorgeous views of the town (S-€20/30/50, D-€30/50/65, Db-€40/60/80, Tb-€50/75/90, Qb-€60/90/100, extra bed-€10, reservations more than 24 hours in advance require first night prepaid by credit card—refundable up to 3 days in advance, free Wi-Fi, roof terrace, Coronel Moscardo 8, tel. 956-680-206, www.pensioncorreo.com, welcome@pensioncorreo.com, Luca).
$ Hostal Villanueva offers 12 remodeled rooms at budget prices. It’s simple, clean, and friendly. It lacks indoor public areas, but has an inviting terrace overlooking the old town on a busy street. Pepe (who speaks a smidgen of English) asks that you reconfirm your reservation by phone the day before you arrive (Sb-€25-30, Db-€35-55, free Wi-Fi, just west of the old-town gate at Avenida de Andalucía 11, access from outside the wall, tel. 956-684-149, hostalvillanueva@hotmail.com).
I’ve grouped my recommendations below into two categories: Sit down to a real restaurant meal, or enjoy a couple of the many characteristic tapas bars in the old town.
Restaurante Morilla, facing the church, is on the town’s prime piece of people-watching real estate. This is a real restaurant (€1.50 tapas sold only at the stand-up bar and sometimes at a few tables), with good indoor and outdoor seating. It serves tasty local-style fish, grilled or baked—your server will tell you about today’s fish; it’s sold by weight, so confirm the price carefully (€4-11 starters, €10-17 main dishes, daily 9:00-24:00, Calle Sancho IV El Bravo, tel. 956-681-757).
El Puerto, in a dreary and untouristy area between the port and the beach (near the causeway out to Isla de las Palomas), has a great reputation for its pricey but very fresh seafood. Locals swear that it’s a notch or two above the seafood places in town (€8-14 starters, €10-22 seafood dishes and some meats, Thu-Mon 12:00-16:00 & 20:00-24:00, Tue-Wed 12:00-16:00 only, Avenida Fuerzas Armadas 13, tel. 956-681-914).
(See “Tarifa” map, here.)
La Oca da Sergio, cozy and fun, is one of the numerous pizza-and-pasta joints supported by the large expat Italian community. Sergio prides himself on importing authentic Italian ingredients (€7-11 starters, €9-14 pastas, €7-10 pizzas, €14-16 meat and fish dishes, indoor and outdoor seating, daily 13:00-16:00 & 20:00-24:00 except closed Tue in winter; around the left side of the church and straight back, just before the Moorish-style old-folks’ home at Calle General Copons 6; tel. 956-681-249, mobile 615-686-571).
Ristorante La Trattoria, on the Alameda, is another good Italian option, with cloth-napkin class, friendly staff, and ingredients from Italy. Sit inside, near the wood-fired oven, or out along the main strolling street (€7-18 starters and pastas, €6-15 pizzas, €14-25 meat dishes; daily 19:30-1:00 in the morning, July-Aug also Sat-Sun 13:00-16:00, closed Wed off-season; Paseo de la Alameda, tel. 956-682-225).
(See “Tarifa” map, here.)
These two restaurants are in a residential area just above the beach, about a 15-minute walk (or easy car or taxi ride) from the old town. They’re worth a detour for their great food, and for the chance to see an area away from the main tourist zone (though the sushi bar is on the beach and is no stranger to tourists). To get to either, begin by heading up Calle San Sebastián, which turns into Calle Pintor Pérez Villalta. When you see a big staircase immediately on your right, take it to reach Restaurante Souk, or turn left toward the beach to find Surfing Sushi in the large beige Surla building.
Restaurante Souk serves a tasty fusion of Moroccan, Indian, and Thai cuisine in a dark, exotic, romantic, purely Moroccan ambience. The ground floor (where you enter) is a bar and atmospheric tea house, while the dining room is downstairs (€6-10 starters, €12-16 main dishes; July-Sept daily 20:00-3:00 in the morning; Oct-June Wed-Mon 20:00-1:00, closed Tue; good wine list, Mar Tirreno 46, tel. 956-627-065, friendly Claudia).
Surfing Sushi, part of a cool surfer bar called Surla, serves up wonderfully executed sushi using only the freshest of ingredients. Situated just a few steps above the beachfront walkway, it’s at the center of a sprawling zone of après-surf hangouts. They also offer delivery (€16-21 shareable sushi platters, daily 21:00-24:00 except closed Wed off-season, possible to order delivery sushi by phone at other times, Calle Pintor Pérez Villalta 1, tel. 956-685-175).
(See “Tarifa” map, here.)
Bar El Francés is a thriving hole-in-the-wall where “Frenchies” (as the bar’s name implies) Marcial and Alexandra serve tasty little plates of tapas. From Café Central, follow the cars 100 yards to the first corner on the left to reach this simple, untouristy standing-and-stools-only eatery. This spot is popular for its fine raciones (€6-10) and tapas (€1.30-1.80)—especially oxtail (rabo del toro), fish in brandy sauce (pescado in salsa al cognac), pork with spice (chicharrones), and garlic-grilled tuna (atún a la plancha). The outdoor terrace with restaurant-type tables (no tapas served here) is an understandably popular spot to enjoy a casual meal. Show this book and Marcial will be happy to bring you a free glass of sherry (open daily long hours June-Aug; closed Wed-Thu March-May and Sept-Nov; closed Dec-Feb; Calle Sancho IV El Bravo 21A, mobile 685-867-005).
Café Bar Los Melli is a local favorite for feasts on rickety tables set on cobbles. This family-friendly place, run by Ramón and Juani, offers a good chorizo sandwich and patatas bravas—potatoes with a hot tomato sauce served on a wooden board (€5 half-raciones, €8 raciones, Thu-Tue 20:00-24:00, Sat-Sun also 13:00-16:00, closed Wed; from Bar El Francés, cross parking lot and take Calle del Legionario Ríos Moya up one block; mobile 605-866-444). Bar El Pasillo, next to Los Melli, also serves tapas (closed Mon-Tue). El Otro Melli, run by Ramón’s brother José, is a few blocks away on Plaza de San Martín.
La Posada, a local-feeling place a block beyond the main tourist zone (and just up the street from Los Melli), takes pride in its fresh ingredients. There’s a small dining room, a nondescript bar with a giant stone beer tap that’s a replica of the city’s first communal faucet, and tables out front near the real thing (€1.50 montaditos, €3 tostadas, €4-6 half-raciones, €7-11 raciones; July-Aug daily 13:00-16:30 & 20:00-24:00; Sept-June Wed-Mon 20:00-24:00, also open Sat-Sun 13:00-16:30, closed Tue; Calle Guzman el Bueno 3A, mobile 636-929-449).
Café Central is the happening place nearly any time of day—it’s the perch for all the cool tourists. Less authentically Spanish than the others I’ve listed, it has a hip, international vibe. The bustling ambience and appealing setting in front of the church are better than the food (€1.30 tapas, €5 half-raciones), but they do have breakfast with eggs (€2-4), good €7 salads (study the menu), and impressively therapeutic healthy fruit drinks (daily 8:30-24:00, off Plaza San Mateo, near church, tel. 956-682-877).
Casino Tarifeno is just to the sea side of the church. It’s an old-boys’ social club “for members only,” but it offers a musty Andalusian welcome to visiting tourists, including women. Wander through. There’s a low-key bar with tapas, a TV room, a card room, and a lounge. There’s no menu, but prices are standard. Just point and say the size you want: tapa (€1.20), media-ración (€4), or ración (€7). A far cry from some of the trendy options around town, this is a local institution (daily 12:00-24:00).
Mesón El Picoteo is a small, characteristic bar popular with locals and tourists alike for its good tapas and montaditos. Eat in the casual, woody interior or at one of the barrel tables out front (€1.30 tapas & montaditos, €3-7 half-raciones, €5-14 raciones, €7-15 meat and fish plates, long hours daily, a few blocks west of the old town on Calle Mariano Vinuesa, tel. 956-681-128).
(See “Tarifa” map, here.)
Breakfast or Dessert: Confitería La Tarifeña serves super pastries and flan-like tocino de cielo (daily 9:00-21:00, at the top of Calle Nuestra Señora de la Luz, near the main old-town gate).
Churrería La Palmera serves breakfast before most hotels and cafés have even turned on the lights—early enough for you to get your coffee fix, and/or bulk up on churros and chocolate, before hopping the first ferry to Tangier (daily 6:00-13:00, Calle Sanchez IV El Bravo 34).
Chilimoso, literally a small hole in the old-town wall, serves fresh and healthy vegetarian options, homemade desserts, and a variety of teas. It’s a rare find in meat-loving Spain. Eat at one of the few indoor tables, or get it to go and find a bench on the nearby Paseo de la Alameda (daily 12:30-15:30 & 19:30-23:00, just west of the old town gate on Calle del Peso).
Windsurfer Bars: If you have a car, head to the string of beaches. Many have bars and fun-loving thatched restaurants that keep the wet-suited gang fed and watered (see “Beach Scene” on here).
Picnics: Stop by the mercado municipal (farmers’ market, Mon-Sat 8:00-14:00, closed Sun, in old town, inside gate nearest TI), any grocery, or the superSol supermarket (Mon-Sat 9:30-21:30, closed Sun, has simple cafeteria, near the hotels in the new town at Callao and San José).
From Tarifa by Bus to: La Línea de la Concepción/Gibraltar (2/day direct, 1 hour, starting around 12:00; more possible with transfer in Algeciras, 1.5 hours), Algeciras (14/day, less on weekends, 45 minutes, Comes), Jerez (1/day, 2 hours, more frequent with transfer in Cádiz), Sevilla (4/day, 2.5-3.25 hours), and Málaga (2-3/day, 2.5-4 hours, Portillo). Bus info: Comes (tel. 956-291-168, www.tgcomes.es), Portillo (tel. 902-450-550, http://portillo.avanzabus.com).
Ferries from Tarifa to Tangier, Morocco: Two boat companies make the 35-minute journey to Tangier’s city-center Medina Port about every hour (see here in the Tangier chapter for details).
Algeciras (ahl-heh-THEE-rahs, with a guttural h) is only worth leaving. It’s useful to the traveler mainly as a transportation hub, with trains and buses to destinations in southern and central Spain (it also has a ferry to Tangier, but it takes you to the Tangier MED port about 25 miles from Tangier city—going from Tarifa is much better). If you’re headed for Gibraltar or Tarifa by public transport, you’ll almost certainly change in Algeciras at some point.
Everything of interest is on Juan de la Cierva, which heads inland from the port. The TI is about a block in (Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00, Sat-Sun 9:30-15:00, tel. 956-784-131), followed by the side-by-side train station (opposite Hotel Octavio) and bus station three more blocks later.
Trains: If arriving at the train station, head out the front door: The bus station (called San Bernardo Estación de Autobuses) is ahead and on the right; the TI is another three blocks ahead (the road becomes Juan de la Cierva when the road jogs), also on the right; and the port is just beyond.
From Algeciras by Train to: Madrid (2/day, 5.5 hours, arrives at Atocha), Ronda (5-6/day, 1.5-2 hours), Granada (3/day, 4.25-5 hours), Sevilla (3/day, 5-6 hours, transfer at Antequera or Bobadilla, bus is better), Córdoba (2/day direct on Altaria, 3.25 hours; more with transfer in Antequera or Bobadilla, 5-5.5 hours), Málaga (3/day, 3.5 hours, transfer in Bobadilla; bus is faster). With the exception of the route to Madrid, these are particularly scenic trips; the best (though slow) is the mountainous journey to Málaga via Bobadilla.
Buses: Algeciras is served by three different bus companies (Comes, Portillo, and Linesur), all located in the same terminal (called San Bernardo Estación de Autobuses) next to Hotel Octavio and directly across from the train station. The companies generally serve different destinations, but there is some overlap. Compare schedules and rates to find the most convenient bus for you. By the ticket counter you’ll find an easy red letter board that lists departures. Lockers are near the platforms—purchase a token at the machines (€3.20).
From Algeciras by Bus: Comes (tel. 956-291-168, www.tgcomes.es) runs buses to La Línea/Gibraltar (2/hour, less on weekends, 45 minutes), Tarifa (14/day, less on weekends, 45 minutes), Ronda (1/day, 2.75 hours), Sevilla (4/day, 3-4 hours), Jerez (2/day 2.5 hours), and Madrid (5/day, 8 hours).
Portillo (tel. 956-654-304, http://portillo.avanzabus.com) offers buses to Málaga (hourly, 2.25 hours directo, 3 hours ruta), Málaga Airport (2/day, 2 hours), and Granada (3/day directo, 4 hours; 1/day ruta, 5.5 hours).
Linesur (tel. 956-667-649, www.linesur.com) runs the most frequent direct buses to Sevilla (8/day, fewer on weekends, 2.5-3 hours) and Jerez (6/day, fewer on weekends, 1.5 hours).
Ferries from Algeciras to Tangier, Morocco: Although it’s possible to sail from Algeciras to Tangier, the ferry takes you to the Tangier MED Port, which is 25 miles east of Tangier city and a hassle. You’re better off taking a ferry from Tarifa: They sail direct to the port in Tangier. If you must sail from Algeciras, buy your ticket at the port (skip the divey-looking travel agencies littering the town). Official offices of the boat companies are inside the main port building, directly behind the helpful little English-speaking info kiosk (8-22 ferries/day, port open daily 6:45-21:45, tel. 956-585-463).
Tarifa to Gibraltar (45 minutes): This short drive takes you past a silvery-white forest of windmills, from peaceful Tarifa past Algeciras to La Línea (the Spanish town bordering Gibraltar). Passing Algeciras, continue in the direction of Estepona. At San Roque, take the La Línea-Gibraltar exit.
Gibraltar to Nerja (130 miles): Barring traffic problems, the trip along the Costa del Sol is smooth and easy by car—much of it on a new highway. Just follow the coastal highway east. After Málaga, follow signs to Almería and Motril.
Nerja to Granada (80 miles, 1.5 hours, 100 views): Drive along the coast to Motril, catching N-323 north for about 40 miles to Granada. While scenic side-trips may beckon, don’t arrive late in Granada without a confirmed hotel reservation.