Three thousand-foot cliffs. Thundering waterfalls. Sparkling granite domes. Yosemite Valley is without question the most spectacular part of the park. Just seven miles long and less than one mile wide, it’s home to six waterfalls over 1,000-feet tall and enough heart-pounding scenery to keep you in a perpetual state of awe. Its physical drama and picture perfect layout are almost beyond belief. As John Muir once wrote, it’s “as if into this one mountain mansion Nature had gathered her choicest treasures.”
First time visitors are always enchanted by Yosemite Valley. But the more you get to know it, the more enchanting it becomes. From the remarkable seasonal spectacles—the natural Firefall in late February, the spring “moonbow” of Yosemite Falls—to the sun’s final rays lighting up Half Dome each evening, it seems impossible that a valley this perfect could have been created by chance. But the random, whimsical forces of geology—an upwelling of magma here, an Ice Age there—somehow conspired to produce this natural wonder. Ponder the near-impossibility of it all and Yosemite Valley becomes all the more sublime.
How you choose to bask in the Valley’s beauty is entirely up to you. If you’re here to relax, you can spend the day lounging along the banks of the Merced River or ride around on a narrated tour. Those looking for a bit more action can pedal along bicycle paths, hike along the Valley’s stunning trails, or sign up for a rock climbing lesson. Free ranger programs are also offered throughout the day, with topics ranging from natural history to photography.
As the belle of the Yosemite ball, the Valley lures millions of visitors each year. At times, this definitely has its drawbacks. Roughly 80 percent of visitors spend their time in Yosemite Valley, and the resulting crowds sometimes create long lines and parking hassles in July and August. But no matter how crowded the Valley gets—and on popular summer weekends it can get very crowded—nothing can take away from the jaw-dropping scenery.
Even if you visit on busy summer weekends, there are still a few tricks to escape the crowds. Tip #1: Head to popular sights in the early morning or late afternoon—you’ll avoid the worst of the crowds and enjoy the best light. Tip #2: Go for a hike—crowds thin out exponentially for every foot that you climb (hyperpopular Mist Trail notwithstanding). Even an easy stroll to Mirror Lake is capable of delivering solitude if you hike beyond the standard sights.
You can drive around Yosemite Valley, but parking is a minor hassle in the spring and the fall, and a big hassle in the summer. My advice: park your car as soon as possible at one of the two main parking areas (see below). Then explore the Valley on foot, on bike or by riding the park’s free, hybrid diesel-electric shuttle.
Yosemite’s free shuttle is great if you want to explore eastern Yosemite Valley, which is home to the Valley’s hotels, campgrounds and visitor facilities, plus many popular sights. In the summer two additional shuttle routes are offered. One makes quick trips between the Village Day-Use Parking Area and the Valley Visitor Center. The other heads as far west as El Capitan. (Current shuttle routes and stops are listed in the Yosemite Guide.) There are only two downsides to the shuttle: during peak season it often gets crowded, and it doesn’t cover western Yosemite Valley, which is home to some of the park’s top sights.
The best way to explore Yosemite Valley, in my opinion, is on foot or on bike, traveling at your own pace and taking plenty of time to soak in the scenery. Hikers can follow the easy 13-mile Valley Loop Trail, which circumnavigates the floor of Yosemite Valley. Bicyclists can enjoy 12 miles of traffic-free bike paths adjacent to main roads in eastern Yosemite Valley. The main paved roads are also open to bicyclists, providing access to western Yosemite Valley.
There are two major parking areas in Yosemite Valley. The largest, the Village Day-Use Parking Area, is located just south of the four-way intersection near Yosemite Village. Another large parking area is located adjacent to Curry Village.
The Valley Visitor Center in Yosemite Village is the park’s main visitor center. There are also small information booths in all Yosemite Valley hotels.
There are four hotels and four campgrounds in Yosemite Valley.
Ranger ProgramsFree ranger programs are one of the best ways to learn about Yosemite. Popular topics include nature walks, photography walks, campfires and evening programs. Check the Yosemite Guide for the current schedule.
River RaftingCurry Village rents four-person rafts ($31/person) in the late spring/early summer for lazy three-mile floats down the Merced River.
BikingThere are over 12 miles of paved, car-free bike paths in Yosemite Valley. Bikes can be rented ($12/hour, $34/day) at Curry Village and Yosemite Lodge.
Tram ToursOpen-air tram tours of Yosemite Valley (two hours, $25) depart several times daily from Yosemite Lodge. Full moon Valley tours are also offered May–October. Longer tours depart for Glacier Point. Purchase tickets at Yosemite Lodge, Curry Village or the kiosk next to the Yosemite Village Store.
Yosemite Theater LiveThese popular evening programs, held at the Valley Visitor Center from April to October, feature fascinating guest speakers. Topics include Yosemite Search and Rescue, John Muir, adventure filmmaking, etc. Tickets ($8 adults, $4 kids) should be purchased in advance at the Valley Visitor Center.
The Yosemite Mountaineering School offers a wide range of climbing classes from April through October. (209-372-8344)
The Yosemite Valley Stable offers guided rides to Mirror Lake (2 hours, $65) and Clark Point (5 hours, $88). (209-372-8348)
The Mountain Shop is the largest outdoor store in Yosemite. It offers the best selection of hiking, camping and rock climbing gear. Located next to the Curry Village Store. (209-372-8396, Open year-round)
The Sport Shop offers a good selection of basic outdoor gear: boots, jackets, backpacking supplies, etc. Located next to the Village Store. (Open year-round)
Ahwahnee Dining Room $$$ (Brk, Lnch, Din)Yosemite’s top dining experience features high-end California cuisine served in the Ahwahnee’s magnificent dining hall. Locally grown ingredients are prepared with French/Italian flair. The wine list features an extensive selection of California wines. Reservations are required for dinner and recommended for other meals. Attire is “Resort Casual” (which basically means no shorts). Open year-round. (209-372-1489)
The Mountain Room $$$ (Din)Yosemite’s other top-notch restaurant offers terrific steaks and sustainably harvested seafood. The wine list has a good selection of California wines. The dining hall, located at Yosemite Lodge, features great views of nearby Yosemite Falls. Open year-round. (209-372-1274)
Degnan’s has the best deli sandwiches in the Valley—perfect for a picnic lunch. A small cafe adjacent to the deli also serves espresso drinks, smoothies and baked goods. Open year-round.
Located in the angular, 70s-chic loft above Degnan’s Deli, Degnan’s Pizza Loft serves—you guessed it—pizza. Salads and pasta are also available, plus cold, delicious beer. Arrive early to avoid the long lines in the summer. Open spring, summer and fall.
Curry Village has multiple dining options in the spring, summer and fall. The Pavilion Buffet, located in the large building near the amphitheater, serves cafeteria-style meals at moderate prices. Nearby there’s the Coffee Corner and the popular Pizza Deck. Around the corner is the Meadow Grill, which serves burgers, hot dogs and grilled sandwiches.
This á la carte, cafeteria-style restaurant offers a little of everything—soups, salads, pizza, burgers, pasta, international fare. What it lacks in ambiance it makes up for in selection. Located in Yosemite Lodge. Open year-round.
This simple takeout serves burgers, fries and other fast food favorites. Located in Yosemite Village. Open spring, summer and fall.
Yosemite’s most upscale bar, located in the sumptuous Ahwahnee Hotel, serves draft beer, wine, cocktails and tasty appetizers. You can drink inside or soak in the scenery on the outdoor terrace. Open year-round.
Located at Yosemite Lodge, the Mountain Room is Yosemite Valley’s liveliest bar, luring a steady stream of rock climbers from nearby Camp 4. Even if you don’t climb (or drink), the Mountain Room’s impressive collection of vintage Glen Denny climbing photos from the 1960s are worth checking out. And when the weather gets cold, the fireplace is divine. Beer, wine, cocktails and light appetizers are available. Open year-round.
This tiny bar, located next to the Pizza Deck, serves a handful of draft beers and cocktails. Open spring, summer and fall.
Half multi-course Christmas feast, half theater-in-the-round, Bracebridge is the Ahwahnee Hotel’s most famous tradition. First started in 1927, this Renaissance-style dinner, held several times in December, features a cast of over 100 richly costumed performers singing, dancing and serving food. Based loosely on Washington Irving’s classic account of an Old English feast, Bracebridge is popular, expensive and worth it. (bracebridgedinners.com, 801-559-5000 )
In November and December the Ahwahnee Hotel hosts several multi-day wine tastings, featuring rare and limited release wines from a number of California vineyards. Packages for Vintners’ Holidays include hotel reservations, wine seminars, a Meet the Vintners Reception, and a gourmet multi-course meal at the Ahwahnee. (801-559-4884, travelyosemite.com)
Held in January and February at the Ahwahnee Hotel, these multi-day packages cater specifically to foodies. Top chefs from around the country offer cooking classes, demonstrations, a Behind the Scenes kitchen tour, and a five-course gala dinner with paired wines. (801-559-4884, travelyosemite.com)
Start your Yosemite adventure at the park’s largest visitor center. Inside you’ll find a ranger-staffed help desk, a bookstore, and a large exhibit covering the history of Yosemite from geologic times to the present day. A short film, Spirit of Yosemite, is also shown free every half hour, and nightly performances are offered at the Yosemite Theatre from May–September. Check the Yosemite Guide for current Yosemite Theatre offerings.
This small museum displays beautiful baskets and crafts from local tribes, plus exhibits on early pioneer life in Yosemite Valley.
This outdoor reconstruction of a traditional Ahwahneechee village, located behind the Yosemite Museum, offers a glimpse into Yosemite Valley’s native history. The self-guided tour passes by cedar-bark houses and displays on native plants.
This is the final resting place of some of Yosemite Valley’s most famous early residents, including James Hutchings and Galen Clark, whose grave is surrounded by several young giant sequoias. A guide to the Yosemite Cemetery is available at the Visitor Center.
This gallery/store, the global headquarters of the iconic photographer, displays Adams’ gorgeous photographs and sells a wide range of books, postcards, and posters. Contemporary photography by other artists is also displayed, and there’s a good selection of camera supplies.
Wilderness Center
If you’re planning on backpacking in Yosemite, you’ll want to stop here to pick up wilderness permits and inquire about current trail conditions. The Wilderness Center also offers a good selection of backpacking-specific books, plus bear canister rentals.
Want to send mom a postcard stamped “Yosemite National Park, CA 95389”? This is the place to go. Open Mon–Sat.
Degnan’s Deli & Pizza Loft
Best deli sandwiches and pizza in the Valley.
Hopefully you won’t end up here.
Village Store
This is the largest store in Yosemite Valley, and it sells just about everything: fresh food, packaged food, beer, wine, T-shirts, books, DVDs, etc.
This store offers a good selection of outdoor gear, books and other supplies.
The Yosemite Art Center offers mid-day art workshops Tues–Sat during peak season. Check the Yosemite Guide for current offerings.
This 2,425-foot, three-tiered waterfall is one of the park’s most spectacular sights. If all three tiers are taken together, Yosemite Falls is the highest waterfall in North America and the fifth-highest in the world. (Angel Falls in Venezuela is the world’s highest waterfall at 3,212 feet.) Individually the three tiers form Upper Fall (1,430 feet), middle cascade (675 feet) and Lower Fall (320 feet). The Ahwahneechee called this waterfall Choo-Look (“The Fall”).
To see Yosemite Falls in its full glory, timing is key. The waterfall drains roughly 40 square miles, and its flow depends almost entirely on snowmelt. Yosemite Falls generally reaches its peak in May, when it can gush roughly 100 cubic feet per second—enough to fill a football stadium in less than a day. By mid-summer it slows to a trickle, and by autumn the waterfall is completely dry. In winter, frozen mist and fallen ice often form a 100- to 200-foot “snow cone” at the base of Upper Yosemite Falls. Another natural phenomenon, the rainbow-like “moonbow,” appears in the mist during full moon nights in April and May.
Although there’s a direct path to Lower Yosemite Falls from the Yosemite Falls Shuttle Stop (#6), it’s much better to follow the paved trail west (left) past the restrooms and picnic tables. Soon you’ll reach a spectacular path that approaches the waterfall head-on. As you walk down the path, all three tiers of Yosemite Falls are perfectly framed by towering pine trees, creating one of the most magnificent views in the park.
Follow the path until you reach a 3D bronze relief map of Yosemite Falls. Take a good look at the map and notice the hiking trail that heads to the top of Yosemite Falls. Several hundred thousand years ago, Yosemite Falls tumbled down the upper reaches of this trail. Back then, the stream followed a channel west of its present course. Then, around 130,000 years ago, a melting glacier deposited a large pile of debris in the ancient streambed, blocking the stream, diverting it along its present course, and creating Yosemite Falls.
Continue past the 3D map until a break in the trees reveals the top of the falls. To the right of the falls you can see Lost Arrow, a towering stone pinnacle that branches off the main cliff. The name Lost Arrow comes from an Ahwahneechee legend about a hunter celebrating his conquest in the High Sierra. The hunter shot an arrow in the air, and when it landed in Yosemite Valley the arrow turned to stone. Lost Arrow was the first “big wall” rock climb attempted in Yosemite Valley. In 1947 Anton Nelson and John Salathé spent five days climbing Lost Arrow—the first time anyone had spent more than a single night on a rock face.
Continue uphill to the wooden bridge in front of Lower Yosemite Falls. If you’re here in the spring, when the waterfall is at its peak, you’ll be soaked in a cool spray as you cross the bridge. But be careful! The Ahwahneechee believed that a group of dangerous spirit women called Po’-loti lived in the waters below Yosemite Falls.
At first glance this grungy, crowded cluster of tents seems like a campsite of last resort. But Camp 4 is one of rock climbing’s holiest temples—a global mecca on par with base camp at Mt. Everest. The story began in the 1950s, when pioneering rock climbers came to Yosemite to conquer the park’s famous walls. Scraping out a meager existence in Camp 4, they spent years honing the culture and craft of modern rock climbing, pioneering techniques that would ultimately be used around the world. By day these “granite astronauts” climbed big walls; by night they discussed their exploits around roaring campfires. Over the years, as the popularity of rock climbing grew, Camp 4 developed a reputation as Yosemite’s Climber’s Camp. (Around this time a scraggly climber named Yvon Chounard began selling homemade climbing equipment in Camp 4’s parking lot. He would later go on to found the outdoor clothing company Patagonia.)
In January 1997, the “Flood of the Century” washed out many of Yosemite Valley’s low-lying buildings and campsites. In response, the National Park Service decided to shut down Camp 4, which lay above the floodplain, and replace it with rebuilt employee and guest housing. Upon hearing the news, a group of climbers united to save the fabled campsite. Understanding the unique role the campground had played in the global history of rock climbing, they met with park service officials to plead their case. Climbers from around the world flooded the park service with letters and phone calls attesting to the importance of the site. Suddenly aware of Camp 4’s unique heritage, the park service agreed to keep the campsite open. In 2003 it was listed on the National Register of Historic Places.
Camp 4 has been called both “tent ghetto” and “home of the gods” by rock climbers—a fact that speaks volumes about the grungy, tribal culture of the sport. For many, Camp 4 is as much about socializing as actual climbing. It’s where members of a scattered, global subculture go to meet, greet, see, and be seen. Friendships are made, gossip is swapped, rivalries are born, and life goes on pretty much as it always has since climbers made Camp 4 their unofficial home away from home.
Gloriously situated beneath El Capitan, this sandy bend in the Merced River is the perfect place to lounge around and watch the hours drift by. Located about 1.5 miles past Camp 4, Devils Elbow is best in mid- to late-summer when the water level of the Merced has dropped. While you’re lounging on the banks of the river, take a look at the dark splotch on the eastern face of El Capitan. Because the splotch bears a faint resemblance to North America, this section of El Capitan is called the North American Wall.
This imposing granite monolith, rising 3,593 feet above the Valley floor, is the world’s largest chunk of exposed, unbroken granite. It has been called the “Crown Jewel of American Rock Climbing,” and it attracts thousands of die-hard climbers from around the world. During peak climbing season in the spring and fall, El Capitan’s legendary walls are often covered with dozens of rock climbers. All told, there are over 70 routes to the top. A pullout on the road in front of El Capitan is a great place to look for climbers during the day, and after sundown you can often see climbers’ headlamps twinkling thousands of feet above.
On average, it takes climbers four to six days to reach the top. All food, water, and supplies must be hauled up the cliff by the climbers. The general rule is one gallon of water per day, which means each climber must haul 50 pounds of water for a six-day climb. After climbing all day, climbers spend the night on a “port-a-ledge,” a collapsible platform strapped to the face of the rock. In addition to the physical, technical, and mental difficulties of climbing, all solid human waste must be collected and carried off the cliff. For years climbers brought along homemade “poop tubes” made from sawed-off sections of PVC pipe. Today commercially available sanitary bags are the disposal method of choice.
The first climber to conquer El Captain was Warren Harding, who pioneered The Nose route with two friends in 1958. Using “siege tactics” (setting fixed ropes higher and higher and rappelling down for rest and supplies), it took the team 45 days spread over 18 months to reach the top. Royal Robbins, Harding’s rival, considered such tactics poor form, and in 1960 he assembled a team that climbed The Nose in a self-contained, seven-day ascent. In 1975 Jim Bridwell led a team on the first one-day ascent of The Nose. And in 1993 female rock climber Lynn Hill became the first person to free climb The Nose. (In free climbing only body parts are used to climb; ropes and gear are used only for protection from a fall.) The following year Hill returned and free climbed The Nose in a single day.
Today the current obsession is speed. In 2012 Hans Florine and Alex Honnold climbed The Nose in a mind-blowing 2 hours, 23 minutes and 46 seconds. Some climbers have even climbed El Capitan, the northwest face of Half Dome, and El Capitan again in a single day. But such daring exploits are not without risk. Since 1958 over 24 rock climbers have died on El Capitan.
Although most people dream about climbing up El Capitan, a few are obsessed with jumping off of it. The first successful BASE jump occurred in 1966, but the dangerous sport was officially banned in 1980. In 1999 a jumper drowned in the Merced River while trying to elude park rangers after an illegal jump off El Capitan. In response, a handful of BASE jumpers organized a highly publicized “protest” jump to showcase the safety of the sport. As reporters, spectators, and park personnel watched from below, a 58-year-old stuntwoman jumped off the top of El Capitan. Her parachute failed to open, and she died upon impact.
Long ago, two bear cubs wandered away from their mother and fell asleep on a rock near the Merced River. As they slept, the rock rose high into the sky, and the cubs became stranded. All of the forest animals tried to climb the cliff to rescue the cubs, but no one—not fox, not coyote, not mountain lion—could reach the top. Finally a tiny inchworm called Tutoka offered his help. At first the other animals laughed, but Tutoka slowly made his way up the cliff. As the inchworm climbed, he chanted “Tu-tok ... Tu-tok ... Tu-tok-a-nu-la!” Upon reaching the top, the inchworm guided the two cubs down to safety.
This stunning viewpoint is one of Yosemite’s must-see destinations. Perched high above Yosemite Valley’s western entrance, many of the park’s most notable landmarks—Bridalveil Fall, El Capitan, Half Dome—are spread out in a picture perfect display. The sweeping panorama was immortalized by Ansel Adams in his iconic 1935 photograph Clearing Winter Storm, which depicted the scene in the wake of a snowstorm. These days the small parking area at Tunnel View is often swarming with tourists and tour buses during the busy summer months. If you’re thirsting for peace and quiet, follow the steep trail that starts in the adjacent parking area and heads to Old Inspiration Point (the original viewpoint along the old wagon road that the modern highway replaced). Follow the trail for several hundred yards and you’ll be treated to equally dramatic views of Yosemite Valley high above the crowds.
Looking out over Yosemite Valley, the landscape seems eternal. But the present view is far different from the one enjoyed by early tourists in the 1850s. Prior to the arrival of Europeans, Yosemite Valley had larger meadows and open forests with trees spaced widely apart—the result of small, regular fires set by the Ahwahneechee Indians. Mature trees survived the small fires due to thick bark, but unwanted vegetation—saplings encroaching upon meadows, shrubs and debris on the forest floor—were cleared out, creating open spaces that made travel and hunting much easier. Such landscapes also favored the animals that the Ahwahneechee liked to hunt. Far from being untouched, Yosemite Valley was actively “gardened” by the Ahwahneechee. Then, throughout much of the 20th century, the National Park Service followed a policy of fire suppression to “preserve” Yosemite Valley, which inadvertently led to smaller meadows and overgrown forests. Today the park service sets intentional, small fires to help return Yosemite to its “natural” state.
This elegant, 620-foot waterfall is one of Yosemite Valley’s most popular sights. Frequent gusts of wind often fan out the waterfall’s lower curtain, giving it the appearance of a white, lacy veil—a phenomenon that inspired early explorers to name it Bridalveil. The Ahwahneechee called the waterfall Pohono (“Spirit of the Puffing Wind”). Bridalveil Fall is most dramatic between April and June, when melting snow creates peak runoff. During this time, a late afternoon rainbow can often be seen from the parking area, and a double rainbow can sometimes be seen near the base of the falls, reached via a quarter-mile path from the parking area.
Bridalveil Fall is a textbook example of a “hanging valley.” Prior to the Ice Age, the Sierra Nevada was characterized by V-shaped valleys carved by rivers over millions of years. Back then, Bridalveil Creek cascaded down into the V-shaped Merced River Canyon. But when Ice Age glaciers flowed through Yosemite Valley, they gouged out the Merced River Canyon, creating a U-shaped valley with steep cliffs. When the glaciers melted, Bridalveil Creek tumbled over the edge of a cliff, creating Bridalveil Fall.
Bridalveil Fall drains roughly 20 square miles, which is half the size of Yosemite Falls’ watershed. But Bridalveil Fall is often flowing in autumn long after Yosemite Falls has dried up. What’s going on? Although Bridalveil Fall drains a smaller watershed, it was never scraped bare by Ice Age glaciers, and it has far deeper soil as a result. The deep soil retains more moisture, which prolongs the flow of Bridalveil Creek through the summer and into autumn.
This shady picnic area, nestled among ponderosa pines and incense cedars, offers great swimming in the summer along a sandy section of the Merced River. The riverbank offers tremendous views of El Capitan’s southwest face, and on the opposite side of the Valley are Cathedral Spires, a pair of rock pinnacles rising 1,900 feet above the Valley floor. To the east of El Capitan lies Three Brothers (above), an unusual three-tiered rock formation formed by parallel faulting, which is a fancy way of saying that the rock eroded along three major sets of diagonal cracks. In 1987 a massive rockfall sent 1.5 million tons of granite tumbling down from Three Brothers, leveling trees and tossing giant boulders into the Merced River hundreds of yards away. The Indian name for the humped rock formation was Kom-po-pai-zes, which early explorer Dr. Lafayette Bunnell recorded as “mountains playing leapfrog.” This was not the actual translation, however, for Bunnell admitted that “a literal translation is not desirable.” Had Bunnell been less inclined towards G-rated prose, he would have translated Kom-po-pai-zes as ... umm ... “a couple engaged in an act of passion.”
This picnic area is similar to Cathedral Picnic Area, with picnic tables and a restroom nestled among a shady grove of trees. This is also the stopping point for Merced river rafters.
This classic “stairstep” waterfall tumbles down a series of gorgeous mini waterfalls, which, if added together, measure 2,000 feet, making Sentinel Falls the second-highest waterfall in Yosemite Valley after Yosemite Falls (2,425 feet). By volume, however, Sentinel Falls is rather small, which means you’ll have to visit in the spring or early summer to catch a glimpse of its beauty. Although the waterfall generally dries up by mid-summer, towering Sentinel Rock stands guard to the left year-round. According to early California geologist Josiah Whitney, 7,038-foot Sentinel Rock was named for its “fancied likeness to a gigantic watch-tower.”
Built in 1879, this quaint little chapel is the oldest building in Yosemite Valley still in use today. Graced with stunning views of Yosemite Falls and the surrounding cliffs, the chapel is popular for weddings, marriage vow renewals, baptisms, and other special occasions (yosemitevalleychapel.org). Non-denominational services are open to the public every Sunday at 9:15 am, with a second service held at 11 am from Labor Day through Memorial Day.
This charming granite building, built in 1903, is the home of the Sierra Club in Yosemite Valley. It was named for Dr. Joseph LeConte, one of the first professors at the University of California, Berkeley and a co-founder of the Sierra Club. LeConte was a geologist who was known for his eloquent writing. In A Journal of Ramblings Through the High Sierras of California he wrote, “Was there ever so venerable, majestic, and eloquent a minister of natural religion as the grand old Half Dome?” Not surprisingly, he became good friends with John Muir, and LeConte helped Muir found the Sierra Club in 1892.
In 1901 LeConte died of a heart attack in Yosemite Valley. Shortly thereafter, a group of friends, professors, and former students donated money to construct a building in his honor. Originally constructed in Curry Village, LeConte Memorial was moved to its present location in 1919. For years it served as the main visitor center in Yosemite Valley, and between 1920 and 1923 Ansel Adams served as the building’s caretaker. Inside you’ll find exhibits about the history of the Sierra Club and a library filled with nature books. The building is open Wed–Sun, 10am–4pm, May–September. Free evening programs are also offered on weekends.
This dense cluster of tent cabins, shower houses, shops, and restaurants throbs with activity throughout the spring, summer, and fall. Along with Yosemite Village, Curry Village is one of Yosemite Valley’s two major visitor hubs.
Curry Village was first established in 1899 by David and Jennie Curry. At the time, there were several hotels in the Valley, but at two dollars per night “Camp Curry” undercut them by half. Its motto: “Three squares a day, a clean napkin every meal, and NO tipping!” The couple started out with seven tent cabins, but they expanded to 25 by the end of the summer. Each morning at sunrise, David Curry would bellow out, “Those who do not rise for breakfast by eight am will have to postpone it until tomorrow. At eight o’clock the cook gets hot and burns the breakfast!”
To entertain guests after sundown, Camp Curry offered evening programs that featured music, singing, and storytelling. But the most famous attraction was the legendary Firefall (see following page). Today the original “Camp Curry” sign still hangs at the entrance to Curry Village, evening programs are still offered, and over 400 tent cabins continue to offer Yosemite Valley’s best budget lodging.
For nearly 100 years, from 1872 to 1968, the Firefall was one of Yosemite Valley’s most popular sights. Every night in the summer, a huge pile of red-hot embers was pushed off the edge of Glacier Point, creating a glittering “waterfall” of fire that tumbled down the 3,000-foot cliff. The spectacle drew thousands of visitors to Curry Village, where the views were most spectacular. At 9pm sharp, a master of ceremonies would shout out “Let The Fire Fall!” and the embers would come tumbling down as live music played in the background.
In 1968 the park service permanently ended the Firefall, which by that point was considered artificial and unnatural. But a few years after the Glacier Point Firefall was extinguished, a “natural Firefall” became popular on the opposite side of Yosemite Valley. During the last two weeks of February, weather permitting, the final rays of the sun stream through Yosemite Valley at just the right angle to light up Horsetail Fall, which tumbles down the eastern face of El Capitan. Today the natural Firefall attracts photographers and spectators from around the world. Hotels are booked months in advance, and photographers arrive hours before sunset to stake out the perfect spot. For more on the Firefall, visit yosemitefirefall.com
Half Dome, the park’s grand icon, looms over the eastern end of Yosemite Valley like a granite monarch. Rising over 4,800 feet above the Valley floor, it reaches a maximum height of 8,842 feet. From most viewpoints in the Valley, Half Dome’s rounded backside and sheer eastern face make it appear exactly like half of a squat, rounded dome. But this is an optical illusion. Viewed from Washburn Point, you’ll see that its rounded backside is nearly as steep as the sheer northwest face. The three dimensional map of Yosemite Valley in the visitor center further reveals that Half Dome is actually more like an elongated ridge. Some geologists have estimated that roughly 80 percent of the original dome is still intact. If you’ve ever wondered what happened to the other half of Half Dome, the unsatisfying answer is: there never was another half!
But what accounts for Half Dome’s sheer, 2,200-foot northwest face? When Half Dome formed millions of years ago (due to compressional forces and the erosion of previously overlying rocks), it was riddled with vertical cracks. During the Ice Age, when glaciers repeatedly flowed down Tenaya Canyon past Half Dome’s northwest face, they chipped off rocks along the natural cracks. Geologists speculate, however, that the upper 500 to 900 feet of Half Dome protruded above even the highest glaciers. The upper reaches of Half Dome’s northwest face, therefore, were shaped mostly by rockfalls along the vertical cracks, which were probably accelerated by the glacial removal of the supporting rocks below.
In 1868 California state geologist Josiah Whitney proclaimed that Half Dome was “probably the only one of all the prominent points about the Yosemite which never has been, and never will be, trodden by human foot.” Predictably, attempts to climb it were soon underway. Although any decent hiker could reach the rounded backside of Half Dome, the final 700-foot, 45-degree ascent was simply too steep to hike.
In 1875 Yosemite Valley blacksmith George Anderson attempted to climb Half Dome by applying sticky pine pitch to the bottom of his bare feet. When that didn’t work, he spent several weeks drilling iron eye-bolts into the granite. Standing on the bolts as he drilled new ones above and stringing the bolts together with rope, he soon reached the 13-acre summit. Anderson’s rope-strung bolts remained the standard route for years, but they have since been replaced with a slightly more advanced metal cable system. Today thousands of hikers make the trek to the top of Half Dome each year.
In the 1950s, ambitious young rock climbers began setting their sites on Half Dome’s sheer northwest face. In 1957 Royal Robbins led a team of rock climbers on the first ascent of Half Dome’s northwest face. The astounding five-day climb was considered the hardest route in North America at the time. Ten years later Liz Robbins, Royal’s wife, became the first woman to climb the northwest face of Half Dome.
Long ago, a woman named Tissayak and her husband Nangas traveled to Yosemite Valley from the arid plains. Exhausted after the long journey, Nangas lost his temper and hit Tissayak. As Tissayak dashed up Yosemite Valley, acorns spilled out of her basket, and those acorns later grew into oak trees. When Tissayak reached Mirror Lake, she drank it dry. When the thirsty Nangas approached, he grew enraged and hit her again. As Tissayak threw her basket at Nangas, the angry gods turned the couple into stone. Nangas became North Dome (with Basket Dome above) and Tissayak became Half Dome, her tears marked by dark streaks on the vertical face. For the rest of eternity the quarreling couple must now face each other in silence.
This leafy stretch of the Merced River, lying just east of Curry Village, is the jumping off point for the Mist Trail, the most popular hike in the park. As a result, it’s almost always buzzing with activity in the summer. The name Happy Isles comes from three nearby islands in the Merced River. The road to Happy Isles is off limits to private vehicles, so visitors must walk here or take the free shuttle. A short distance from shuttle stop #16 is the family-friendly Nature Center at Happy Isles (open May–mid-Sept). This small museum is filled with natural history displays and serves as Yosemite’s headquarters for the kid-oriented Junior Ranger Program.
In July 1996, Happy Isles was the site of one of Yosemite Valley’s most notorious rock falls. Over 70,000 tons of rock detached from the cliffs above and went into free fall, hitting the ground at roughly 260 miles per hour. The granite pulverized instantly, generating a 250 mph blast of wind that toppled over 700 trees and sent rock fragments hurtling through the air. Remarkably only one hiker was killed. Today you can still see many of the fallen trees in the vicinity of Happy Isles.
Mirror Lake is a great destination for anyone looking to escape the crowds and soak in Yosemite’s natural scenery. The short, easy trail starts at shuttle stop #17, crosses Tenaya Creek Bridge, and then follows Tenaya Creek up to Mirror Lake. Mirror Lake is best viewed in the spring and early summer when the water level is high. For the best reflections, walk along the east side of the lake in the morning and the west side in the late afternoon. These days Mirror Lake is more of a pond than a lake, and each year it grows smaller as more and more vegetation fills in the water. Someday in the not so distant future, Mirror Lake will become Mirror Meadow.
Mirror Lake originally formed due to the largest known rockfall in the history of Yosemite Valley. At some point in the distant past, over 15 million cubic yards of debris came crashing down from the western cliffs above, damming Tenaya Creek and creating Mirror Lake. The uphill path to Mirror Lake actually travels over the dam created by the rock avalanche.
More recently, in March, 2009, the Ahwiyah Point rockfall sent roughly 45,000 cubic meters of rock tumbling down below Half Dome. The air blast knocked down over 100 trees, and the crash was equivalent to a 2.4 earthquake as measured by nearby seismometers. The rockfall also buried a southern section of the 5-mile loop trail that circumnavigates Mirror Lake, closing that portion of the trail for over three years until workers established a new path.
The Ahwahnee Hotel is the pinnacle of luxury in Yosemite—which isn’t surprising given the $460 per night price tag. (The hotel’s most expensive suite, which comes with a library parlor, rents for over $1,100 per night) But even non-guests can enjoy a stroll through the hotel’s sumptuous interior spaces or a meal in the decadently rustic dining room. And nothing tops off a long day of hiking like a cold cocktail at the hotel’s bar or outdoor patio. Guided tours of the Ahwahnee are also offered throughout the year (inquire at the concierge desk).
The Ahwahnee opened in 1927, and its construction was spearheaded by Stephen Mather, the first director of the National Park Service, who wanted a world-class lodge for his favorite national park. From a distance the hotel appears to be built of stone and timber, but a closer look reveals that the “timber” is actually concrete. Several famous national park lodges had been destroyed by fire in the early 1900s, so Mather insisted that the Ahwahnee be fire resistant. The hotel’s concrete supports were poured into wood-grain molds and painted to look like timber. Real timber was used only in the dining room.
The Ahwahnee has hosted dozens of celebrities, including Queen Elizabeth, Eleanor Roosevelt and John F. Kennedy (who arrived via helicopter). Lucille Ball, Desi Arnaz, and Judy Garland stayed here while filming The Long, Long Trailer, as did William Shatner and Leonard Nimoy while filming Star Trek IV. Robert Redford worked at the Ahwahnee before launching his film career, and Steve Jobs was married on the back lawn in a Buddhist ceremony.
Difficulty Strenuous
Distance 3 miles, round-trip
Hiking Time 3–4 hours
Elevation Change 1,000 feet
Summary The Mist Trail is the most popular trail in Yosemite, and with good reason. Although relatively short by Yosemite standards, it passes by some of the park’s most dramatic scenery. The Mist Trail skirts the boulder-strewn banks of the Merced River, then heads up a series of stone steps in front of 317-foot Vernal Fall. In spring and early summer, the thundering waterfall soaks hikers in a drenching, rainbow-filled spray. (Beware of slippery stone steps.) The only downside: massive crowds in the summer. On busy weekends, the hyper-popular Mist Trail can feel more like a trip to the mall than the Great Outdoors. But don’t let that deter you. It remains one of Yosemite’s classic hikes. (Note: after reaching the top of Vernal Fall, strong hikers can continue to the top of 594-foot Nevada Fall, which adds 1.4 miles and 1,000 feet of elevation change to a round-trip hike from Happy Isles.)
Trailhead The Mist Trail starts in Happy Isles (shuttle stop #16) at the far eastern end of Yosemite Valley. From the shuttle stop, cross the stone bridge and follow the well-trodden path to your left.
Difficulty Very Strenuous
Distance 17 miles, round-trip
Hiking Time 12–14 hours
Elevation Change 4,800 feet
Summary Half Dome is, without question, the most fabled hike in the park. This towering quirk of geology beckons every adventurer who sets eyes on it. The challenging 8.5-mile trail to the top starts in Yosemite Valley, passes by Vernal Fall and Nevada Fall, then climbs to the base of Half Dome’s steep backside. From there you’ll haul yourself up a pair of metal cables drilled into the rock—a vertigo-inducing experience sure to quicken any pulse. Make no mistake, this is not a trail for the faint of heart. But if you’ve got the physical and mental stamina to take on Half Dome, you’ll be rewarded with jaw-dropping views of Yosemite Valley. It’s an experience you’ll never forget. Strong hikers can make it round-trip in 12 hours. If you’d like to hike Half Dome in two days, you must obtain wilderness permits to camp at Little Yosemite Valley Campground, located about halfway to the top. (See following pages for additional info.)
Trailhead The most popular route to the top of Half Dome starts in Happy Isles (shuttle stop #16) and follows the Mist Trail to the top of Nevada Fall. From there follow the signs to the top of Half Dome.
Half Dome is one of America’s most incredible hikes, but it’s a 17-mile, 4,800-foot monster that demands respect. Advance preparation is necessary.
Cables
The final 700-foot ascent to the top of Half Dome is inclined between 45 and 60 degrees, which is far too steep to hike. Half Dome’s unique cable system puts the otherwise inaccessible peak within the reach of hikers. Two sets of steel poles are set into the rock at 10-foot intervals, and metal cables are strung between the poles. The cables are set 30 inches apart—small enough to grasp a cable with both hands, but large enough for two people to squeeze past one another. Many hikers use thick work gloves to protect their hands and enhance their grip. Wooden boards are laid flat between each set of poles, offering hikers a foothold to rest along the way. The cable system is installed in the spring, then taken down in the fall to protect it from winter damage. Exact dates vary based on conditions. Check the park’s website for the most up-to-date info.
One Day or Two?
It’s possible to hike Half Dome in a single day if you’re an experienced hiker in great shape. But I prefer splitting up the hike over two days, giving yourself plenty of time to soak in the magnificent scenery. Overnight hikers spend the night at Little Yosemite Valley Campground, which offers the closest backcountry camping near Half Dome. Located a mile above Nevada Fall, the campground has food lockers and composting toilets, but no potable water. (There’s a stream nearby.) You’ll need a wilderness permit to camp there. I like hiking to the campground on the first day, then heading up Half Dome early the next day.
Choosing the Best Route
There are three popular routes to Half Dome, all of which converge at the top of Nevada Fall. The first route starts in Happy Isles and follows the Mist Trail to the top of Nevada Fall. The second route starts in Happy Isles and follows the John Muir Trail to the top of Nevada Fall. Although the Mist Trail is 1.5 miles shorter and more scenic than the John Muir Trail, the John Muir Trail has fewer crowds and a gentler grade.
The third route starts at Glacier Point and follows the Panorama Trail to the top of Nevada Fall. This route is about two miles longer than Nevada Fall via the John Muir Trail, but because it starts at a higher elevation you’ll save roughly 1,100 feet of climbing. That said, the Panorama Trail drops roughly 1,500 feet as it descends to Illiloutte Falls—not bad on the way out, but a tough way to finish a long hike.
My favorite route starts at Glacier Point and finishes in Yosemite Valley. This requires catching the bus to Glacier Point or shuttling two cars between Glacier Point and Yosemite Valley.
Permits
A maximum of 300 hikers (225 day hikers, 75 backpackers) are allowed on top of Half Dome each day. Permits for day hikers are distributed by lottery on recreation.gov. There is one pre-season permit lottery in March, plus daily lotteries for about 50 permits during hiking season. Backpackers should apply for Half Dome permits when they apply for wilderness permits. For comprehensive Half Dome permit info, visit the Yosemite National Park website.
What’s on Top?
The top of Half Dome is a vast, mostly flat surface that’s about the size of 17 football fields. Chipmunks and marmots are common, and the rare Mount Lyell salamander has been spotted. Over half a dozen very small trees once grew on the summit, but most were used for firewood when overnight camping was allowed on top of Half Dome. (Overnight camping was banned in 1993 due to the large amounts of human waste generated.)
Do not ascend the cables if
dark clouds are visible!
During thunderstorms Half Dome is a giant lightening rod, and hikers on top have been killed by lightning strikes. A warning sign below the backside of Half Dome states: “DANGER. If a thunderstorm is anywhere on the horizon, do not pass beyond this sign. Lightning has struck Half Dome during every month of the year.” A single bolt of lightening contains up to one hundred million volts and reaches temperatures up to 55,000 ˚F—five times hotter than the sun. Thunderstorms descend on Half Dome with remarkable speed, and you don’t have to be on top to feel the effects. Rock climbers stranded on the sheer northwest face during thunderstorms have been shocked by lighting-induced electrical charges streaming across the wet granite. Hikers fleeing thunderstorms have been severely shocked while gripping Half Dome’s metal cables.
Death on Half Dome
There have been over 20 recorded deaths on Half Dome. In 1972 a hiker on top of Half Dome took refuge from a lightning storm in a small cave. He was killed when lightning struck the cave. Thirteen years later, a group of young hikers ascended the cables during a lightning storm and sought refuge in the same cave. Lightning struck the cave again, killing one hiker and sending another into seizures that propelled him off the sheer northwest face.
Thousands of hikers use Half Dome’s cables each year, but only five people have died while ascending or descending the cables. Many of these accidents occurred when the granite was slippery and wet. Other causes of death on Half Dome include suicides (6), falls while rock climbing (4), and unsuccessful BASE jumps (2).
Difficulty Strenuous
Distance 9.2 miles, round-trip
Hiking Time 5–7 hours
Elevation Change 3,200 feet
Summary Millions of tourists drive to Glacier Point to check out the stunning views, but those views are even more rewarding when you’ve earned them via the Four Mile Trail. This is one of the best hikes in Yosemite Valley, with unrivaled views of Yosemite Falls. If hiking 3,200 feet up isn’t your thing, try riding the bus to Glacier Point and hiking 3,200 feet down to Yosemite Valley. Conversely, if hiking just 9.2 miles isn’t your thing, consider the following 13.1-mile hike: head up the Four Mile Trail, then hike down the Panorama Trail to the top of Nevada Fall, then hike down to Yosemite Valley via the Mist Trail. If you’ve got the time and the energy, the Four Mile Trail/Panorama Trail /Mist Trail route is one of the finest hikes in the park. So how did the Four Mile Trail get its name when it actually measures 4.6 miles long? The original trail, built in the 1870s by James McCauley, was exactly four miles long, but it has since been improved and extended.
Trailhead The Four Mile Trail starts between Sentinel Beach and Swinging Bridge on Southside Drive.
Difficulty Strenuous
Distance 7.6 miles, round-trip
Hiking Time 4–5 hours
Elevation Change 2,600 feet
Summary If you love 2,400-foot waterfalls and strenuous hikes, it doesn’t get better than this. You’ll pant and sweat all the way to the top, but there’s no better way to revel in the majesty of Yosemite Falls. After climbing the trail’s 135 switchbacks, you’ll be treated to sweeping views of Yosemite Valley and amazing glimpses of Upper Yosemite Fall. The top of the trail follows a notch in the cliff that brings you above the waterfall, and from there a narrow path drops down to a fenced-in ledge beside the lip of Upper Yosemite Fall. If you’re afraid of heights, the fenced-in ledge is probably not for you. But if you like dramatic views, it’s well worth the effort. If you don’t feel like climbing all the way to the top, Columbia Point (1.2 miles from the trailhead, 1,000-foot elevation change, 80+ switchbacks) is a great destination with sweeping views of the Valley.
Trailhead The trail to the top of Yosemite Falls starts at Camp 4. Take the shuttle to Yosemite Lodge (stop #7), and cross the street to Camp 4. The hike starts between the parking area and the campground.
