Yosemite National Park is located in the heart of California’s Sierra Nevada Mountains. By car it’s a roughly 4-hour drive east of San Francisco, a 6-hour drive northeast of Los Angeles, and a 3–hour drive south of Reno, Nevada. Amtrak (800-872-7245, amtrak.com) and Greyhound (800-231-2222, greyhound.com) offer service to the town of Merced, about 65 miles southwest of the park. From Merced you can purchase a ticket on YARTS (Yosemite Area Regional Transportation, 877-989-2787, yarts.com), which runs daily buses to Yosemite Valley from the towns of Merced, Mariposa, Midpines and El Portal along Highway 140. In the summer YARTS also offers service from Mammoth Lakes on the eastern side of the Sierra Nevada.
There are four entrances to Yosemite. Big Oak Flat Entrance, located on the park’s western boundary along Highway 120, is the closest entrance to San Francisco. Arch Rock Entrance, located on Highway 140, is the closest entrance to the towns of Merced, Mariposa and Midpines. South Entrance is located along Highway 41 at the park’s southern tip, close to Wawona and the Mariposa Grove of giant sequoias. Yosemite’s only eastern entrance, Tioga Pass, is located at an elevation of 9,941 feet. Closed for much of the year due to heavy snow, Tioga Pass is accessible in the summer and early fall via Highway 120 from the small town of Lee Vining.
A seven-day pass to Yosemite National Park costs $30 per vehicle, $25 per motorcycle, or $15 per pedestrian or cyclist. An annual Yosemite pass costs $60. The best value, however, is the America The Beautiful Pass ($80), which gives you unlimited access to all U.S. national parks and federal recreation lands for one year.
The park operates a free shuttle in Yosemite Valley throughout the year. A free shuttle is also offered along Tioga Road between Tioga Pass and Olmstead Point in the summer. Seasonal shuttle times are listed in the Yosemite Guide.
As soon as you enter the park, pick up a copy of the Yosemite Guide. This free park publication, available at all entrance stations and visitor centers, offers a wealth of seasonal information, including shuttle schedules, hours of operation for shops and restaurants, sunrise/sunset times and other park essentials.
Ranger-staffed visitor centers are located in Yosemite Valley, Tuolumne Meadows and Wawona. Information booths are located in all park hotels.
Yosemite’s Twitter feed, @YosemiteNPS, is a great resource for up-to-the-minute weather updates and park alerts.
One very important note on gas: There are NO GAS STATIONS in Yosemite Valley. There are only two gas stations in the park, located at Crane Flat and Wawona. Both have 24-hour pumps. Although relatively pricey, they are generally cheaper than gas stations just outside the park.
The late, great Yosemite ranger Carl Sharsmith was once asked what he would do if he only had one day in Yosemite. His response: “I’d go down to the Merced River, put my head in my hands, and cry.”
Yes, you could spend months exploring Yosemite, but you can still have a great time in just one day. Head straight to Yosemite Valley and bask in the park’s most spectacular sights. Consider taking a narrated tram tour in the morning, then pick up sandwiches at Degnan’s Deli. Head to the Mist Trail , hike to the top of Vernal Fall, then find a nice spot for a picnic lunch. Finish your day with a drive to Glacier Point for sunset and stargazing. (If the sunset crowds at Glacier Point are a bit much, hike to the top of nearby Sentinel Dome.
After exploring the park highlights in Yosemite Valley, head to the stunning alpine wilderness above 8,000 feet known as the High Sierra. The adventure begins on Tioga Road. Along the way, be sure to visit the Tuolumne Grove of giant sequoias and Olmstead Point, where you can check out the backside of Half Dome. If you’re short on time, drive as far as Tenaya Lake. If you’ve got time to spare, head all the way to Tuolumne Meadows and hike to the top of Lembert Dome.
Spring is the best time to visit Yosemite Valley. The waterfalls are at their peak, the wildflowers are blooming, and the summer crowds have not yet arrived. Daytime temperatures are often divine, but be prepared for chilly temperatures at night. In early spring, Tioga Road and Glacier Point Road are still closed due to lingering winter snow, restricting access to Tuolumne Meadows and Glacier Point. Both roads generally open by late May, but they can sometimes stay closed through June following winters with heavy snow.
Summer is Yosemite’s most popular season in terms of visitation. The park’s famously sunny weather draws a steady stream of vacationing families. (On average, just three percent of Yosemite’s annual precipitation falls in the summer.) On many summer weekends, however, Yosemite Valley is a bit too popular, with long lines and traffic jams throughout the day. By mid-summer many of the Valley’s famous waterfalls have run dry, and daytime temperatures often soar into the 90s. For all of these reasons, savvy Yosemite visitors head to Tuolumne Meadows in July and August. While Yosemite Valley (4,000 feet) is hot and crowded, Tuolumne Meadows (8,600 feet) is literally a breath of fresh air.
Fall is great time to visit Yosemite Valley. The crowds thin out dramatically after Labor Day, and daytime temperatures start to cool down. September is one of the best months for hiking and rock climbing in Yosemite Valley. In Tuolumne Meadows, meanwhile, September brings crisp days and freezing nights. Services shut down on Tioga Road by the end of September, and the road closes after the first heavy snow (generally sometime between mid-October and mid-November). In Yosemite Valley, even the biggest waterfalls have slowed to a trickle by mid-October, but the autumn foliage is gorgeous.
Winter is Yosemite’s least popular season in terms of visitation, but after a fresh layer of snow the scenery is spectacular. Tioga Road shuts down in the winter, cutting off vehicle access to Tuolumne Meadows and the High Sierra, but Glacier Point Road is plowed as far as Badger Pass. The oldest ski resort in California, Badger Pass offers both downhill and cross country skiing, plus ranger-guided showshoe walks. In Yosemite Valley, the Ahwahnee Hotel offers a number of great events, including wine tastings, Chefs’ Holidays, and the famous Christmas Bracebridge Dinner. During the last two weeks of February, hundreds of visitors come to Yosemite Valley hoping to catch of glimpse of the Firefall, one of Yosemite’s most amazing natural spectacles.
No other Yosemite topic generates as much fear and confusion as black bears. Grainy videos of bears breaking into cars are played on a constant loop on TV monitors in hotel lobbies, and overnight guests are required to sign forms stating they are “Bear Aware.” Although bears can sometimes be problematic, you won’t have to worry about them if you follow a few basic rules.
There are hundreds of hungry black bears in Yosemite, but they’re not interested in you. They’re interested in your food. Any food or scented items (toothpaste, sunscreen, etc.) left unattended or improperly stored serves as a bear magnet. As a result, proper food storage is required at all times. Anything with a scent (including canned goods, empty coolers, and dirty dishes) should be stored in metal food lockers, which are found throughout the park. Never leave any food or scented items in your tent or tent cabin. Never keep food in a hotel room with any doors or windows open. And never leave food in your car after daylight hours. If a bear sees or smells food in a car, it might break the windows and rip open the doors. Bears sometimes break into cars if they simply see a cooler—even if it’s empty. Failure to store your food properly can also result in a federal fine of up to $5,000!
If you see a bear in a developed area (such as a campground) or if a bear approaches you, make as much loud noise as possible to scare it away. This is easier said than done, but yelling or banging on pots and pans is often enough to scare the bear away. Bear sightings should also be reported to park rangers.
Backpackers must also follow special food storage procedures. If you encounter a bear in the wilderness, maintain plenty of distance. This is especially important with cubs, because mamma bear might not be far behind.
Most first-time Yosemite visitors worry about black bears and wild animals. But no one has ever been killed by a bear in Yosemite, and only one person (a small child) has ever died due to a rattlesnake bite. Horses, meanwhile, have been responsible for six deaths. Falling trees have killed nine people in the past 150 years, while rockfalls have killed 14.
Far more dangerous is suicide, which has claimed over 60 lives. Over 100 people have died while rock climbing, though most fatalities have occurred on descents rather than ascents. Over 140 people have died due to drowning, and over 40 people have been swept over waterfalls.
So what’s the biggest killer in Yosemite? Motor vehicles, which have been responsible for over 160 deaths.
I’ve included basic lodging and camping info here, but for comprehensive lodging and camping info, including photos, visit jameskaiser.com.
Yosemite’s hotels are run by Aramark Corporation (travelyosemite.com). Book your room as far in advance as possible, especially for the busy summer months. Rooms are much easier to come by off-season, and discount rates are often available in the winter. No matter when you visit, do not show up at the park without a reservation and expect to get a room.
Yosemite’s 13 campgrounds are run by the National Park Service. Roughly half of the campgrounds are first-come, first-served; the rest require advance reservations (877-444-6777, recreation.gov). Campsites generally accommodate up to six people. There are also three Backpacker Campgrounds where backpackers with wilderness permits can spend the night before and after their trip without advance reservations. Yosemite’s three Backpacker Campgrounds are located in Yosemite Valley, Tuolumne Meadows and Hetch Hetchy.
This historic lodge is the pinnacle of luxury in Yosemite. The only downside is the price. Rooms at the Ahwahnee start at $460 per night and can go higher than $1,100 per night!
The hotel rooms at Yosemite Lodge can’t compete with the luxury of the Ahwahnee, but the prices ($200–$240 per night) are far more reasonable. A few deluxe rooms have views of nearby Yosemite Falls.
This labyrinthine collection of canvas tent cabins offers the best budget lodging in Yosemite Valley ($125 per night). The simple tent cabins are charming, but the paper-thin walls can be a drag if you’ve got noisy neighbors. If you’re looking for peace and quiet, book one of Curry Village’s wooden cabins, which are slightly more expensive ($200 per night) but nicer and more private. There is also a deluxe cabin ($250 per night) with a working fireplace.
Like Curry Village, Housekeeping Camp offers budget lodging ($105 per night). But while the canvas tent cabins at Curry Village feel rustic and charming, Housekeeping Camp’s bunker-style shelters feel stark and bare. Still, nothing can take away from Housekeeping Camp’s spectacular location along the banks of the Merced River. A few shelters have terrific river views.
There are four campgrounds in Yosemite Valley. The three “Pines” campgrounds, located at the far eastern end of Yosemite Valley, require reservations. Book them as far in advance as possible (877-444-6777, recreation.gov). Only Camp 4 is first-come, first-served, but long lines often form early in the morning for any available campsites. (Note: hot showers can be purchased at Curry Village and Housekeeping Camp in the afternoon.)
Open year-round, 238 sites, RVs up to 35 feet, $26/night.
Open April–October (approximately), 60 sites, RVs up to 40 feet, $26/night.
Open March–October (approximately), 81 sites, RVs up to 40 feet, $26/night.
Camp 4, located just east of Yosemite Falls, is the only first-come, first-served campground in Yosemite Valley. Open year-round, 35 sites, no RVs, $6 per person/night (a total of six people will be assigned to each campsite).
Tuolumne Lodge offers 69 canvas tent cabins that are nearly identical to the tent cabins found in Curry Village, but with the added bonus of a wood-burning stove to keep you warm at night. Bathrooms and hot showers are available at a central shower house. $135 per night.
There’s only one campground in Tuolumne Meadows, but there are a handful of campgrounds between Yosemite Valley and Tuolumne Meadows along Tioga Road (see following page). There are also several small campgrounds located in Inyo National Forest just east of Tioga Pass. (Note: hot showers can be purchased at Tuolumne Lodge in the afternoon.)
This is the largest campground in the park (304 sites). Half of the sites can be reserved in advance; half are first-come, first-served. Open July to late-September (weather permitting), RVs up to 35 feet, $26/night.
Located along Tioga Road, White Wolf Lodge has canvas tent cabins with wood-burning stoves. ($140 per night)
This large, historic hotel is bursting with Victorian charm. Some rooms have private baths ($205 per night), others do not ($140 per night). Located in Wawona near the park’s southern boundary.
Located about halfway up Glacier Point Road. Open July–September (approximately). First-come, first-served. 110 sites, $18/night, RVs up to 35 feet.
Located near the junction of Big Oak Flat Road and Tioga Road. Open July to mid-October (weather permitting). Reservations available. 166 sites, $26/night, RVs up to 35 feet.
Located near Yosemite’s Big Oak Flat Entrance. Open year-round. Reservations required mid-April to mid-October. 105 sites, $26/night, RVs up to 35 feet.
Located off Tioga Road, not too far from Crane Flat. Open late June–September (approximately). First-come, first-served. 52 sites, $12/night, no RVs.
Located next to White Wolf Lodge off Tioga Road. Open July to mid-September (weather permitting). First-come, first-served. 74 sites, $18/night, RVs up to 27 feet.
Located off Tioga Road. Open July–early September (approximately). First-come, first-served. 40 sites, $12/night, no RVs.
Located along Tioga Road. Open July–mid-October (approximately). First-come, first-served. 52 sites, $12/night, RVs up to 24 feet.
Located in Wawona. Open year-round. Reservations required mid-May to mid-October. 93 sites, $26/night, RVs up to 35 feet.
There are dozens of hotels and campgrounds outside the park, and listing them all would take dozens of pages. Rather than waste all that paper, I’ve posted comprehensive hotel and campground information at jameskaiser.com
These three towns, located west of Yosemite’s Arch Rock Entrance along Highway 140, are the closest gateway towns to Yosemite Valley. Mariposa, located about 30 miles (45-minute drive) from Arch Rock Entrance Station, is a small Gold Rush-era town. These days the boardwalk-lined Main Street is filled with boutiques, restaurants and tap rooms. Mariposa is your best bet for dining outside the park, and if you don’t mind the drive there are plenty of reasonably priced hotels. The tiny towns of Midpines and El Portal consist of a few scattered hotels and restaurants along Highway 140. If you’re planning on spending the bulk of your time in Yosemite Valley and the park hotels are completely booked, look for lodging in one of these towns.
Groveland, located along Highway 120 about 24 miles west of the park’s Big Oak Flat Entrance, is another Gold Rush-era town. Groveland’s most famous institution is the Iron Door Saloon. The oldest continually operating saloon in California, the Iron Door is home to cold drinks, good food and live entertainment on the weekends. Groveland also has a handful of charming B&Bs.
Oakhurst, located near the park’s southern boundary along Highway 41, is Yosemite’s largest gateway town. It’s filled with mini-malls and fast food restaurants. Like Mariposa, Oakhurst is a good bet for reasonably priced lodging if you don’t mind the drive. Just outside the park’s southern entrance lies the tiny town of Fish Camp, which is home to a small general store and a handful of B&Bs.
The tiny town of Lee Vining, located at the eastern base of the Sierra Nevada, revolves almost entirely around Yosemite and Mono Lake tourism. If you’re planning on spending the bulk of your time in Tuolumne Meadows and all of the nearby hotels are booked, look for lodging in Lee Vining. Note: Tioga Road, which bisects the park and connects Lee Vining to Tuolumne Meadows and Yosemite Valley, closes in the winter due to heavy snow.