The Garden of Eden botanical garden near Hana.

The Best of Maui in Three Days

For a smallish island, Maui has wildly diverse ecosystems and communities—there’s a lot to see and experience. If you only have 3 days, concentrate on some of Maui’s most quintessential experiences: a beach, a luau, the scenic Hna Highway, and the view from the top of Haleakal, a 10,023-foot-high (3,048km) dormant volcano. START: Kahekili Beach.

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Travel Tip

For detailed descriptions of the beaches in this chapter, see chapter 5. For hotel reviews, see chapter 10. For more on the recommended restaurants, see chapter 8.

To get to Kahekili Beach from Lahaina/Ka‘anapali, take Hwy. 30 north towards Kapalua. Turn left on Pu‘ukoli‘i Street and follow it to the shaded parking lot.

★★★ Kahekili Beach. Check in to your hotel, and then head for Kahekili Beach, named for an ancient Maui king. You’ll feel like royalty when you sink your toes into the deep sand here. Don’t overdo the sun on your first day. Bring water, sunscreen, and a hat. If you’re feeling adventurous, rent snorkel equipment—the reef here is vibrant. Otherwise, simply bask like a turtle on the sand and enjoy the perfect temperature. See p 79.

The Old Lahaina L‘au immerses guests in Polynesian culture.

Retrace your route back to Hwy. 30 and turn right, continuing into Lahaina town.

Ululani’s Shave Ice. Cool off with this uniquely Hawaiian treat. Snow-fine ice shavings are topped with tropical fruit syrups. Try lilikoi and coconut with ice cream or a “snowcap” (sweet condensed milk). 790 Front St, Lahaina ☎ 808/877-3700. $.

★★ Lahaina. After an hour or two at the beach, spend a couple of hours walking this historic oceanfront town, which was once the royal capital of Hawai’i, and later a favorite spot for both whalers and missionaries. Today, you can browse its array of unique storefronts, restaurants, and nightlife spots. See the walking tour on p 50 for more information.

★★★ Old Lahaina L‘au. To really feel as though you are in Hawai‘i, immerse yourself in Polynesian culture at this beachfront l‘au. The festivities begin at sunset and feature Tahitian and Hawaiian dancing and chanting. The food is a mix of Pacific Rim and traditional Hawaiian, from imu-roasted kalua pig to baked mahi-mahi to teriyaki sirloin steak. 1251 Front St. www.oldlahainaluau.com. ☎ 800/248-5828 or 808/667-1998. $115 adults, $78 children 12 and under. See p 127.

From Lahaina take Hwy. 30 south to Hwy. 380 and turn right (east). In Kahului, Hwy. 380 becomes Dairy Road. Turn right (east) on Hwy. 36.

★★★ Hna Highway. You’ll probably wake up early on Day 2, your first full day in Hawai‘i, so take advantage of it and get out as quickly as you can and onto the scenic Hna Highway. Allow at least 31⁄2 to 5 hours for the journey. Pull over often, get out to take photos, smell the flowers, and jump in the mountain-stream pools. Wave to everyone, move off the road for those speeding by, and breathe in Hawai‘i. For a detailed description of this route, see p 66.

After MM 16, Hwy. 36 becomes Hwy. 360 and starts with MM 0. Just past MM 32 is:

Wai‘napanapa State Park. Just before reaching Hna town, stop at this state park and hike down to the black-sand beach and cave pool. See p 91.

The dramatic black sands of Wai‘napanapa State Park.

Back on the Hna highway, a couple of miles down the road between MM 34 and 35 is:

Hna Fresh Market. This small, outdoor farmer’s market and deli (open every day) has hot breakfast and lunch made with locally grown produce (including coffee). I highly recommend the frittata—and the lattes are divine. Get a picnic lunch before you leave.

About 1⁄2 mile (.8km) after MM 35, you come to the outskirts of Hna; veer right at the police and fire station.

★★★ Hna. While you’re here, make sure to hit three of my favorite spots, the Hna Cultural Center and Museum, the Hasagawa General Store, and Hna Coast Gallery. Spend the night in Hna. For more detailed information on Hna’s sights, see p 66. For where to stay in Hna, see p 142.

★★ The “Back Side” of Haleakal. On Day 3, pack up to leave Hna and head out towards the lush Kpahulu District of Haleakal National Park. Bring snacks, water, and charged camera batteries to capture the stunning vistas you will encounter. Stop at the waterfalls in Kpahulu (save your park receipt for entrance to the summit later). Continue on the cliff-hanging road through the dry, cattle country of Kaup. (The road turns to gravel in a few spots, but it isn’t too bad. Drive slow and watch for cows.) Stop for ice cream at Kaupo Store. Proceed on Pi‘ilani Hwy. 31 into the rolling green hills of ‘Ulupalakua. Take a spin through MauiWine and the ‘Ulupalakua Ranch Store. (p 65, ❺).

Waterfalls at Kpahulu.

Pi‘ilani Hwy. 31 becomes Kula Hwy. 37 after ‘Ulupalakua. Follow it to Kekaulike Hwy. 377 and turn right. Turn right again onto Haleakal Hwy. 378 to go to the top of Haleakal.

★★★ Haleakal National Park. Cruise up to the 10,000-foot (3,048km) dormant volcano, Haleakal. You won’t have time for a hike, but spend at least an hour gazing into the crater’s moonscape. See p 88 for details. www.nps.gov/hale. ☎ 808/572-4400. Daily 7am–4pm.

Maui Driving Tips

Hawai‘i residents know the highways by their Hawaiian names; very few know the highway numbers. I’ve included both the Hawaiian highway name and number on the maps, but the directions in this book mainly refer to the highway number. You’ll also see the abbreviation MM, which stands for “mile marker.” Below is a quick reference to the names and numbers of Maui’s highways.

Hwy. 30: Honoapi‘ilani Highway

Hwy. 31: Pi‘ilani Highway

Hwy. 36 and Hwy. 360: Hna Highway

Hwy. 37: Haleakal Highway and the Kula Highway

Hwy. 311: Mokulele Highway

Hwy. 377 and Hwy 378: Haleakal Highway

Hwy. 380: Kuihelani Highway

Retrace your route down Hwy. 378 to Hwy. 377, where you turn right and head north to Hwy. 37. Turn right onto Hwy. 37 and, at the next light, turn right onto Makawao Avenue to drive to the town of Makawao. To get to P‘ia from Makawao, head downhill on Baldwin Avenue.

★★ Makawao. Tour the old cowboy town (see p 33 for details), and plan a sunset dinner in ★★ P‘ia (p 122) before heading back to the airport. If you’re feeling luxurious, make reservations at Mama’s Fish House. See p 147, ⓫ and ⓬ for more information. See p 129.

From Hwy. 36 in P‘ia, drive west to Kahului, turning right on Airport Road.

The Best of Maui in One Week

I recommend staying at least a week on Maui to take in this sensuous island at a slow, leisurely pace. This weeklong itinerary adds a few new favorites to the 3-day tour: sailing to the island of Lna‘i; spending an extra day in Hna; and, depending on your preference, a final day on the beach, at a spa, or shopping for souvenirs. I suggest working your way around the island to avoid unnecessary commuting: spend the first 2 nights in West Maui (Lahaina/Ka‘anapali/Kapalua), night 3 in P‘ia, nights 4 & 5 in Hna, and the last night in South Maui (Khei/Wailea). If that’s too much hotel-hopping for you, pick one home base to drive back and forth from. START: Kahekili Beach.

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Travel Tip

West Maui is the area from Lahaina north, including Ka‘apanali, Honokowai, Kahana, Npili, and Kapalua. South Maui includes Khei, Wailea, and Mkena.

To get to Kahekili Beach from Lahaina/Ka‘anapali, take Hwy. 30 north towards Kapalua. Turn left on Pu‘ukoli‘i Street and follow it to the shaded parking lot.

★★★ Kahekili Beach & ★★ Lahaina. See Day 1 in “The Best in 3 Days,” above.

Go south on Hwy. 30 to Lahaina. Turn right at the light on Dickenson Street. Look for the Republic Parking sign on the right.

★★★ Lna‘i. Get out on the water early with Trilogy (p 99), my favorite sailing-snorkeling trip in Hawai’i. Pack your swimsuit, sunscreen, hat, and plenty of water. You’ll spend the morning sailing to the island of Lna‘i, snorkeling, and touring the island. Breakfast and lunch are included.

Sailing to Lna‘i.

★★ Lahaina. After sailing back to Lahaina, in the afternoon you’ll have time to shop for souvenirs or relax in Lahaina. For dinner, I’d book a table on the ocean at sunset at the Mala Ocean Tavern (p 129). If you still have energy, watch the Cirque-de-Soleil inspired performance of ‘Ulalena (p 138).

Take Hwy. 30 south along the West Maui coast. Turn right on Hwy. 380, right again on Hwy. 36, then another right on Hwy. 37. Just after Pukalani, turn left on Hwy. 377. Turn left again at the sign for Haleakal National Park and take Hwy. 378 to the top. Allow at least 2 hours.

★★★ Haleakal National Park. After 2 days on the water, turn mauka (toward the mountain) for a cooler climate on Day 3. Head up the 10,000-foot-high (3,048m) dormant volcano, Haleakal. You can hike in the crater (p 85), speed down the mountain on a bicycle (p 101), or simply wander about the park. If you want to watch the sunrise from this height (a near-religious experience) you must reserve your spot in advance (see p 87). Wear layers. Save your park entrance receipt to access the Kpahulu District later. www.nps.gov/hale. ☎ 808/572-4400. Daily 7am–4pm.

Retrace your route down the mountain, and turn right at the light on Makawao Avenue. To get to P‘ia from Makawao, head downhill on Baldwin Avenue.

★★ Makawao & ★★★ P‘ia. See p 13. Stay in one of the boutique inns nearby to get an early start for the following day’s adventure; see p 142 for options.

❹ ★★★ Hna Highway. On Day 4, pack your bags, stock up on snacks, water, and driving music, and head to Hna. See p 12, through .

❺ ★★★ Hna. With another whole day to spend here, I recommend lounging at Hmoa or Kaihalulu beaches (see chapter 5), with great swimming and snorkeling at either beach, or touring Pi‘ilanihale Heiau (p 71), one of the largest ancient Hawaiian temples in the state. You’ll be grateful to spend a second night in Hna.

Get on the road by 10am for Day 6. Head west on Hwy. 360 to ‘Ulupalakua, allowing at least 1 hour driving time. After Kaup, Hwy 360 becomes Hwy. 31.

★★ The “Back Side of Haleakal.” See page 33.

Grandma’s Coffee House. Need refreshment? I love the homegrown coffee, fresh-baked pastries, and live music on the lanai (porch) at this tiny wooden coffee house. 9232 Kula Hwy. (Hwy.37), Kkea (about 6 miles/9.7km past MauiWine in ‘Ulupalakua). ☎ 808/878-2140. $.

After ‘Ulapalakua, Hwy. 31 becomes Hwy. 37. Follow it across the island to Hna Hwy. 36 and turn left. Take the next left onto Hansen Road and follow it until it end at Mokulele Hwy. (Hwy. 311). Turn left and head south. Hwy. 311 becomes Hwy 31, Pi‘ilani Hwy., which ends at Wailea. The drive will take a little more than an hour.

Wines from MauiWine.

Wailea Beach.

★★★ Wailea. For your last night on Maui, stay in one of the tony resorts on the island’s palm-fringed south shore. (See p 145 for lodging suggestions.) Walk the oceanfront path (p 56), or simply relax on Wailea Beach (p 82), drinking in the romantic sunset views.

★★★ Wailea & Mkena Depending on how much time you have on your final day, you relax at Mkena State Beach Park (p 81), snorkel with tropical fish at Ulua (p 81), or get pampered in a spa. Spagoers have terrific spas to choose from (p 36) and shoppers should check out some of my favorite stores at the nearby Shops at Wailea (p 119).

To go from Wailea to ‘ao Valley, head north on Hwy. 31 and turn right on Hwy. 30. In the town of Wailuku, turn left at the light onto Main Street, which becomes ‘ao Valley Road, and ends at ‘ao Valley State Park. The 8-mile (13km) trip will take about 30 to 40 minutes.

★★ ‘ao ‘Valley. If you have extra daylight before your flight, swing up through this historic verdant valley on your way back to the airport. Bring a picnic lunch and hike the trails or pack a swimsuit and plunge into the cool mountain streams that run through the ‘ao Valley park. One feature you won’t miss: the black basalt ‘ao Needle, jutting upward some 2,250 feet (686 meters). Park gates are open 7am to 7pm daily; entry fee is $5 per car. For more details, see p 44, ❻ and p 60, ❷.

Return the way you came on ‘ao Valley Road. Continue straight as the road turns to Main Street then West Ka‘ahumanu Ave. 30. Turn right on Hna Hwy, then left on Airport Road. The 8-mile (12.9km) trip will take about 25 minutes.

‘ao Valley. 

The Best of Maui in Two Weeks

Two weeks on Maui separates the visitors from the adventurers and gives you time to really get to know this exotic isle. This tour is similar to the 1-week tour above with a few additional stops: flying to Moloka‘i and riding a mule into the dramatic Kalaupapa Peninsula; seeing Maui from a helicopter; snorkeling in the old volcanic crater of Molokini; touring Maui’s farms; and kayaking off historic Mkena. To reduce driving time, plan on spending 6 nights in West Maui, 3 nights in Hna, and 4 nights in South Maui. START: Kahekili Beach.

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On Day 1, head to the picture-perfect ❶ ★★★ Kahekili Beach (see p 79) on the West Maui coast. On Day 2, plan to spend the day on the ocean—well equipped with swimsuit, sunscreen, a hat, and plenty of water—with a boat trip from Lahaina to ❷ ★★★ Lna‘i (see p 152).

Turn right on Hwy. 30 to Lahaina town.

❸ ★★ Lahaina. After a day on the remote island of Lna‘i, head for the bustling town of Lahaina. Plan to arrive in this historic town early, before the crowds. I recommend a big breakfast—at Mala Ocean Tavern (p 129) or Lahaina Coolers (p 128)—then put on your walking shoes and take the self-guided historic walking tour of the old town (p 50), do some browsing in the quaint stores (p 112), and watch the surfers skim the waves in front of the library.

Skimboarders ride the waves in Lahaina.

Travel Tip—Rush Hour

Plan ahead to avoid Maui’s rush hour, which lasts from 7 to 9am and from 4 to 6pm. Roads can be packed bumper-to-bumper—not a fun way to spend your vacation!

From the West Maui coast, take Honoapi‘ilani Hwy. 30 through M‘alea and then branch northeast on Kuihelani Hwy. 380, which becomes Airport Road. Follow the signs towards the heliport, turning right on Kala Road. Make a left on Leleipio Place.

★★★ Maui from above. Day 4 gets you a bird’s-eye view of the island. Flying over Maui in a helicopter will give you an entirely different perspective of the island, from canyons and lush rainforests to plunging waterfalls and mountain peaks. Of all the helicopter companies, I think Blue Hawaiian Helicopter (p 102) offers the most comfortable, informative, and thrilling tours.

After your flight, head to Wailuku. Return to Airport Road. Turn right (northwest) on Hna Hwy. 36. Follow Hwy. 36 until it merges with Hwy. 32 (Ka‘ahumanu Ave.), which will take you into Wailuku (the street name changes to Main St. in Wailuku).

Meander around the old town of ★★ Wailuku (see the walking tour on p 60). Visit Native Intelligence (p 118) and stop at the Bailey House Museum (p 44). Continue up Main Street, which becomes ‘ao Valley Road, to the end, where you will be in ★★ ‘ao Valley (p 44). Hike the trails or pack a swimsuit and plunge into the cool mountain streams that run through the ‘ao Valley park.

Kahakuloa Head on the North Shore.

From here, retrace your route back to Main Street in Wailuku. From there, make a left on N. Market Street, then a right on Mill Street, which ends at Lower Main Street. Turn left and, as you near the coast, go left again onto Waiheu Beach Road (Hwy. 340). Take the second left onto Kuhio Place and then take your first left on Hea Place.

At the end of the street are the ancient temples of Hale Ki‘i and Pihana Heiau (see p 71). If you aren’t too tired, take the long route back to West Maui via the Kahekili Highway (see p 44 for its storied history): Return to Waiheu Beach Road (Hwy. 340), turn left, and when the road ends, make a right onto Kahekili Highway (also Hwy. 340). Follow Hwy. 340 northeast about 12 winding miles (19km) to visit the ancient Hawaiian village of Kahakuloa (see p 44). From there it is another 21 miles (34km) on Hwy 340 then Hwy. 30 to return to Lahaina.

To fly to Moloka‘i for the day, go to Kahului Airport. From West Maui, take Hwy. 30 to just past M‘alaea and veer right onto Kuihelani Hwy. 380, which becomes Airport Road.

❺ ★★★ Kalaupapa National Park. For an unforgettable all-day adventure, hop over to Moloka‘i to visit the beautiful, haunting Kalaupapa Peninsula. Meet up with Damien Tours to explore this extraordinary island, which is now a National Historic Park. You can either hike or ride a mule down the world’s tallest sea cliffs, and then take a bus tour of historic sites, most relating to its 19th-century role as a compulsory “home” to sufferers of Hansen’s Disease, also known as leprosy. See p 62 for more details.

From West Maui, take Hwy. 30 south, pick up Hwy. 380 just past M‘alea, and turn right on to Hwy. 36. Take another right on Hwy. 37 and follow it southeast through Pukalani. Turn left on Hwy. 377, then right at the sign to the Haleakal National Park on Hwy. 378 and take it to the top. The summit is 40 to 50 miles (64–80km) from West Maui. Allow at least 2 hours.

★★★ Haleakal National Park. Cool off and dress warmly for Day 6 at the summit of this 10,000-foot volcano. For details on exploring this volcano, see p 89 and 101; if you have time, you’ll want to add on the rural towns of ★★ Makawao (p 64) and ★★ P‘ia (p 33).

To reach Hna Highway from Lahaina/Ka‘anapali, take Hwy. 30 south to Hwy. 380 and turn right (northeast). In Kahului Hwy. 380 becomes Dairy Road. Turn right (east) on Hwy. 36, otherwise know as the Hna Highway.

❼ ★★★ Hna Highway. On Day 7, pack your bags and head out to heavenly Hna along the famous Hna Highway (see p 66 for a complete driving tour). Stop in P‘ia for snacks at Mana Foods (p 67). Visit the napping sea turtles at Ho‘okipa Beach Park (p 78). From here on out, cell service is nil. You’ll spend the next few days unplugged and blissed out in East Maui’s rainforested hinterlands.

❽ ★★★ Hna and ❾ ★★★ Kpahulu. In addition to the activities in Hna listed on p 70 ❺, visit the Kpahulu District of Haleakal National Park (see p 88 for full information). Pack a picnic lunch and hike to Waimoku Falls, above ‘Ohe‘o Gulch (see p 87).

After ‘Ulapalakua, Hwy. 31 becomes Hwy. 37. Follow it across the island to Hna Hwy. 36 and turn left. Take the next left onto Hansen Road and follow it until it ends at Mokulele Hwy. (Hwy. 311). Turn left and head south. Hwy. 311 becomes Hwy 31, Pi‘ilani Hwy., which ends at Wailea. The drive will take a little more than an hour.

❿ ★★ Wailea. Spend a day relaxing in this tony resort area: Indulge yourself at a spa (p 34), lounge on Wailea Beach (p 82), or browse the Shops at Wailea (p 119).

Haleakal’s crater.

A mule ride on Molokai is an unforgettable adventure.

To get to Mkena Beach from Wailea, h take Hwy. 31 south, which ends at Wailea ‘Ike Drive. Turn left at the intersection onto Wailea Alanui Road, which becomes Mkena Alanui Road. Turn right on Mkena Road to Mkena Bay. From there to La Pérouse Bay continue on Mkena Road until it ends, then take off on foot for a couple of miles to reach the bay.

⓫ ★★★ Mkena. Take things easy on Day 11 by venturing out to wild, untamed Mkena and beyond. Consider exploring this scenic coast by kayak—the water is calm and clear enough that you can see the fish, and you are protected from the wind (see “Kayak Tours,” p 106). After a couple of hours of kayaking and snorkeling at Mkena Landing, break for a picnic lunch. If you have energy to spare, hike over to La Pérouse Bay, along the rugged shoreline, and see the ‘Ahihi-Kina‘u Natural Area Reserve (p 97). Return for a luxurious dinner at Ka‘ana Kitchen or Spago (p 128 and 132).

Upcountry, the Ali‘i Kula Lavender Farm welcomes visitors.

The boat trip to Molokini departs from M‘alaea Harbor. Travel on Hwy. 31 north, turn left on Hwy. 30. The left-turn exit to M‘alaea comes up within a mile.

⓬ ★★★ Molokini. On Day 12, the deep sea beckons. Board a boat to Molokini Crater, that tiny crescent on the horizon. You’ll see dazzling corals and schools of fish in 100 feet of crystal clear water. If it’s whale season, you’ll be treated to a show on the way over or back. I recommend taking one of Trilogy’s tours (p 99).

Kula Hwy. 37 is the main road through Maui’s upcountry. You can reach it either from the Hna Hwy. 36 along the Hna coast or from Pi‘ilani Hwy 31 on the South Maui coast.

⓭ ★★ Upcountry farm tours. Return to the slopes of Haleakal on Day 13 for a tour through Maui’s verdant farmlands. (See the driving tour on p 38 for fuller details). Book a multi-farm trip with Maui Country Farm Tours (p 39), a luncheon at O‘o Farm (p 40), or investigate a few farms on your own. Cheese aficionados will love sampling fromage at the Surfing Goat Dairy Tour (p 39). The Ali‘i Kula Lavender Farm (p 40), will revive your senses with its fragrant herb gardens.

Heading down the mountain, stop for dinner in the middle of the pineapple fields at Hli‘imaile General Store. See p 127.

Head south on Hwy. 31, South Khei Road.

⓮ Khei. After 13 days of exploring Maui, spend your last day doing whatever you love best in the laidback town of Kihei, whether it’s shopping, beach hopping the 5 miles (8km) of white-sand beaches (see p 76), visiting the wildlife preserve (see p 57), or taking a whale-watch tour (p 107). Pick up a lei on your way to the airport to carry the scent of Maui with you home. •

One of Khei’s beaches.