The Ke‘anae Peninsula is a tempting detour along the Road to H
na.
West Maui has it all: Rain-carved mountains, sandy beaches, fish-filled reefs, and plenty of action on shore. The stretch of coastline from the historic port of Lahaina to Kapalua is the island’s busiest resort area (with South Maui a close second). Traffic jams frequently clog Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., the only passage to this side of the island. START: Olowalu.
Travel Tip
I’ve used the highway number, not the name of the highway, when detailing how to get around on Maui. The abbreviation MM stands for “mile marker.” For more information, see “Maui Driving Tips” on p 13.
Olowalu. Most visitors drive right past this tiny hamlet, halfway to Lahaina. Stop at MM 14 for one of my favorite snorkeling spots—over a turtle-cleaning station about 150 to 225 feet (46–69m) out from shore, where turtles line up to have cleaner wrasses (small fish) pick parasites off their shells. Further offshore, manta rays are known to congregate. Take care not to step on live coral and wear ocean-friendly sunscreen. After exploring the underwater world, head across the street to view the Pu‘u Kilea petroglyphs—ancient rock carvings of sailors, canoes, and animals. See p 43 for directions. Fuel up at Leoda’s.
Leoda’s Kitchen & Pie Shop The gourmet sandwiches, hot dogs, and burgers are sinfully delicious, but save room for pie! The macadamia nut praline is intergalactic. 820 Olowalu Village Rd. ☎ 808/662-3600. $.
Take Hwy. 30 north 7 miles (11km).
❷ ★★★ 
Lahaina. Spend half a day exploring Lahaina’s surf boutiques, museums, and shave ice shops. Kids might take special interest in the fossils, dinosaur eggs, and sharks’ teeth at the Whaler’s Locker (780 Front St., ☎ 808/661-3775). See p 50 for a full walking tour of the town.
Take Hwy. 30 for 3 miles (4.8km) north of Lahaina.
❸ Ka‘anapali. Hawai‘i’s first master-planned resort consists of pricey midrise hotels lining nearly 3 miles (4.8km) of gold sandy beach. Golf greens wrap around the slope between beachfront and hillside properties. You can’t miss the huge (almost life-size) metal sculpture of a mother whale and two nursing calves that greets you at Whalers Village, a seaside mall that has adopted the whale as its mascot. For information on the stores here, see p 112. As you stroll down the beach path, at the Hyatt Regency Maui (p 147) you can spy on South American penguins playing in the lobby.
Continue north on Hwy. 30 for 7 miles (11km) and turn onto Office Rd.
❹ ★★ Kapalua. Follow Highway 30 through the small seaside villages of Honokowai, Kahana, and N
pili, and then head for the ocean shore along Office Road, bordered by elegant Cook pines. This is the domain of the luxurious Ritz-Carlton Kapalua (p 149). Kapalua Resort has a long list of amenities: a golf school, two golf courses (p 94), multiple swanky condos and restaurants, a collection of perfect beaches, and a rainforest preserve with hiking trails and a zipline tour—and all are open to the general public.
Between the West Maui Mountains and the deep azure ocean, Lahaina has managed to preserve its 19th-century heritage while still accommodating 21st-century guests. It has been at various times the royal capital of Hawai‘i, the rowdy center of the whaling industry, the home of austere missionaries who tried to save the Hawaiians’ souls, and the site of sugar and pineapple plantations. Today, it’s one of the most popular towns in Maui for visitors to explore. START: Baldwin Home Museum on Front Street.
Travel Tip
Purchase a $10 Passport to the Past for entry to 4 popular museums: Baldwin Home, Wo Hing, A&B Sugar, and Bailey House. Buy the Passport at any of these museums.
❶ 
Baldwin Home Museum. Step into this coral-and-rock house and travel back in time. Built in 1835, it belonged to Rev. Dwight Baldwin, a missionary, naturalist, and self-trained physician who saved many Native Hawaiians from influenza and smallpox. Baldwin’s rudimentary medical tools (on display here) bear witness to the steep odds he faced. He was rewarded with 2,600 acres in Kapalua, where he grew pineapple, then an experimental crop. On Friday night, docents dressed in period attire offer candlelit tours. Pick up a Lahaina walking map here, then visit the gift shop in the Masters’ Reading Room next door. N 30 min. 120 Dickenson St. (at Front St.). www.Lahainarestoration.org. ☎ 808/661-3262. Admission $7 adults, $5 seniors, kids ages 12 and under free. Admission also grants access to Wo Hing Temple (p 52). Daily 10am–4pm.
❷ Pioneer Inn. Lahaina’s first hotel looks much as it did when it was built in 1901 by George Freeland, of the Royal Canadian Mounted Police, who tracked a criminal to Lahaina and then fell in love with the town. The scene of some pretty wild parties at the turn of the 20th century, the Pioneer is still open for business. Get a cold drink at the old bar or sit outside and watch the goings-on at the harbor. N 30 min. 658 Wharf St. www.pioneerinnmaui.com. ☎ 808/661-3636.
❸ 
Banyan Tree. With octopus-like limbs, this enormous tree is so big that you can’t fit it in your camera’s viewfinder. It was only 8 feet (2.4m) tall in 1873, when Maui sheriff William O. Smith planted it. Now it’s the largest banyan in the U.S., more than 60 feet (18m) tall, with 16 major trunks, and it shades 2⁄3 of an acre (.27ha) in Courthouse Square. N 15 min. At the Courthouse Bldg., 649 Wharf St.
❹ Courthouse. This 1860 building has served as a courthouse, customs house, post office, tax collector’s office, and jail. On August 12, 1898, locals watched the Hawaiian flag come down and the American flag rise in its place, marking annexation to the U.S. Visit the Lahaina Heritage Museum upstairs to see fine exhibits on the history of Lahaina and whaling. The basement jail is now an art gallery. N 20 min. 648 Wharf St., Lahaina. www.visitLahaina.com. ☎ 808/661-3262. Free admission. Daily 9am–5pm.
Maui Swiss Café. This is a great place for tropical smoothies, strong espresso, and affordable snacks. Sit in the somewhat funky garden area, or (my preference) get your drink to go and wander over to the seawall to watch the surfers. 640 Front St. ☎ 808/661-6776. $.
❻ Malu‘ulu O Lele Park. Not much to look at now, this ball field sits atop one of the most significant archeological sites in all of Hawai‘i: Moku‘ula, a former island where the highest-ranking ali‘i (chiefs) took refuge. Beneath the grass, the royal residence and a glittering fishpond—home to a powerful mo‘o (lizard goddess)—await excavation and restoration. (Learn more on a tour with Maui Nei Native Expeditions, p 45). N 5–10 min. Front/Shaw sts.
❼ Waiola Church and Cemetery. Hawai‘i’s first stone church, built in 1828, was razed twice by hurricane winds and twice by fire—and rebuilt from the ground up each time. In the cemetery beside the church are the graves of two powerful women: Princess Ke
p
olani—considered the highest-born, most sacred of all the Hawaiian ali‘i (royals)—and Queen Ka‘ahumanu, the two most influential wives of King Kamehameha I. Both women converted to Christianity and broke the ancient system of kapu (restrictions) by sitting down to eat with men, an act that signified the end of the old ways. N 10–15 min. 535 Waine‘e St.
❽ Hongwanji Mission. Originally built in 1910 by members of Lahaina’s Buddhist sect, this temple hosts a marvelous Obon festival in the summer. The reverend, who lives next door, takes time to talk to visitors and will give tours of the church to those interested. N 5 min., longer if you get a tour inside. Waine’e/Luakini sts.
❾ Old Prison. Stuck-in-Irons, or Hale Pa‘ahao, is the Hawaiian name for this humble penitentiary. Drunken sailors were sent here, along with reckless horse riders. Wander inside and see the cells, complete with shackles. N 5 min. Waine‘e/Prison sts.
❿ Luakini Street. Sometimes to experience Hawai‘i you have to feel with your heart, and not look with your eyes. That is true of this place. Back in 1837 this street was the route for the funeral procession of Princess Nahi‘ena‘ena, sister of kings Kamehameha II and III. A convert to Protestantism, she fell in love with her brother at an early age. Just 20 years earlier, their relationship would have been encouraged as a way to preserve the purity of the royal bloodlines. The missionaries, however, condemned it as incest. In August 1836 the couple had a son, who lived only a few hours; Nahi‘ena‘ena never recovered and died in December of that same year. Her funeral route became known as Luakini—meaning a heiau (temple) where chiefs prayed and human sacrifices were made—in reference to the gods “sacrificing” the beloved princess. Originally at Moku‘ula (p 51), her mausoleum is now at Waiola Church (p 51). Stop on this street in the shade of one of the big breadfruit trees, and try to imagine the sorrow and fear of a population in transition. The old ways were dying—and the new ways seemed foreign and frightening.
Ono Gelato. This classy creamery makes Italian gelato with locally sourced passionfruit, mango, and coffee. The back patio hangs out over the surf—the best spot to chill in town. Bonus: free Wi-Fi. 815 Front St., Lahaina. ☎ 808/495-0203. $.
⓬ Wo Hing Temple. I adore this temple; it’s small but filled with unexpected treasures. Starting in 1852, sugar planters began drafting Chinese contract labor to work in the sugarcane fields. The growing Chinese community built this temple and social hall in 1912. Today it hosts a lovely altar, gift shop, and rustic old cookhouse, complete with old woks. Duck inside to view some of the first movies ever made—Thomas Edison’s footage of Hawai‘i shot in 1898 and 1903! Check the calendar for Chinese New Year and kite-flying festival dates. N 20 min. 858 Front St. ☎ 808/661-3262. Admission $7 adults, free for children ages 12 and under. Sat–Thurs 10am–4pm; Fri 1–8pm.
⓭ Hale Pa‘i. Little known fact: Lahaina was home to the first secondary school and first newspaper west of the Rockies. Even more remarkably, after the missionaries introduced the alphabet in the mid-1800s, Hawaiians became the most literate population of the time, with 90% able to read and write! Hawaiian-language newspapers became the rage, spreading news from distant continents to the most remote Hawaiian valleys. It all started at this tiny print house, an off-the-beaten-track museum on the edge of Lahainaluna High School campus. Note the limited hours. N 25 min. 980 Lahainaluna Rd. ☎ 808/662-0560. Free admission. Open Mon–Wed 10am to 4pm and by appointment.
⓮ Lahaina Jodo Mission. An enormous Buddha statue (some 12-ft./3.7m high and weighing 31⁄2 tons) beams over this temple garden. It came here from Japan in 1968, to commemorate the 100th anniversary of the Japanese arrival in Hawai‘i. On the first weekend in July, this temple hosts a beautiful lantern ceremony and Obon dance—not to be missed. N 10–15 min. 12 Ala Moana St. (off Front St., near the Mala Wharf). ☎ 808/661-4304. Free admission. Daily during daylight hours.
[To experience South Maui’s treasures, you have to get wet: strap on a snorkel, climb into a kayak, or just dip in a toe. You won’t appreciate this hot, dry coastline by merely looking out the window as you drive by. Once home to small Hawaiian fishing villages, the south shore now includes four distinct communities: windy M
‘alaea, traffic-swollen K
hei, glitzy Wailea, and wild, serene M
kena—a paradise locals fight to keep pristine. START: ‘
hihi-K
na‘u Natural Area Reserve.
Travel Tip
Your south Maui adventure begins at the untamed end of the road, then wends its way back to civilization. Pack a swimsuit, towel, hat, hiking shoes, plenty of water, sunscreen, and (depending on what you want to do) snorkel gear and/or a kayak (see chapter 6 for rental recommendations). Get going early to avoid the hot sun; start off before 7am in the winter and 6am in the summer for the best weather conditions.
Drive south on M
kena Road, past Pu‘u Olai to ‘
hihi Bay, where the road turns to gravel. Go another 2 miles (3.2km) along the coast to La Pérouse Bay.
❶ ★ La Pérouse Bay & Monument. At the road’s end in South Maui, a pyramid of lava rocks marks the spot where the first Westerner to “discover” the island, French explorer Admiral Comte de La Pérouse, set foot on Maui in 1786. Park here, and if you’re up for it, start hiking. Bring plenty of water and sun protection, and wear shoes that can withstand walking on loose, prickly lava rocks. From La Pérouse Bay, you can pick up Hoapili Trail, the old king’s highway that once circled the island. The trail crosses a beach and shadeless lava plains, winding down to the lighthouse at the tip of Cape H
namanioa, about a .75-mile (1.2km) round trip. Give yourself an hour or two to soak in the solitude of this wilderness.
Return north on M
kena Road 1.6 miles (2.6km) to park in gravel lot on left.
❷ ★ ‘
hihi-K
na‘u Natural Area Reserve. This stark, seemingly barren 1,238-acre preserve protects dynamic marine ecosystems, fragile anchialine ponds, and lava fields from Haleakal
’s last eruption of 200-500 years ago. ‘
hihi Bay is a favorite snorkel spot for experienced waterfolk. Park at the gravel lot and walk 5 minutes north to enter at Kanahena Cove. Portions of the preserve are temporarily restricted, to allow fragile marine resources to recover from over-use. For current information on what’s open and what’s not, visit http://dlnr.hawaii.gov/ecosystems/nars/maui/ahihi-kinau-2 or call ☎ 808/984-8100.
Continue north on M
kena Road to M
kena State Park. Choose from three entrances: the southernmost is unpaved with street parking, while the other two have large paved lots and portable toilets.
❸ ★★★ M
kena State Park (Big Beach). This gorgeous stretch of sand is stunning at all hours of the day, particularly in the early morning when dolphins like to visit. See p 81.
Head north on M
kena Rd. (which becomes M
kena Alanui), turn left on Hono‘iki St., and then right on M
kena Rd.
❹ ★ M
kena Landing. This beach park with boat-launching facilities, showers, toilets, and picnic tables has generally calm waters teeming with colorful tropical fish. It’s the perfect place for beginner kayakers and snorkelers. M
kena Kayak Tours (p 106) specializes in teaching first-time kayakers. Or if history is more to your taste, go south on M
kena Road from the landing; on the right is Keawalai Congregational Church ★ (☎ 808/879-5557), built in 1855. Surrounded by t
leaves (planted for spiritual protection) and built of 3-foot (.9m) thick lava rock with coral for mortar, this Protestant church sits on its own cove. On Sundays, voices soar in song during the 9:30am Hawaiian-language service.
Travel north on M
kena Alanui, which becomes Wailea Alanui. Turn into the parking lot past the Four Seasons Resort Wailea.
Island Gourmet Market. This well-stocked grocery and deli dishes out everything from eggs and hash-browns to French macaroons. Choose from ten types of poke (raw, seasoned fish). Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea. ☎ 808/874-5055. $
❻ ★ Wailea. From serene M
kena proceed into multimillion-dollar high-rise luxury. Wailea’s resorts line the palm-fringed gold coast. For an up-close look, park in the public beach access lot between the Four Seasons Resort Maui and the Grand Wailea and walk the 3-mile (4.8km) round-trip beach path. It has terrific views of Kaho‘olawe and Molokini (plus whales in winter) and the ocean side of the path is planted with rare native coastal flowers and trees. The Four Seasons and the Grand Wailea both have museum-quality art collections and offer self-guided tours. Allow about an hour, longer if you want to linger with the art.
Go left on Wailea Alanui Road and left again at stop sign to Okolani Drive, which becomes K
hei Road.
P
‘ia Fish Market. This north shore favorite opened a counter on the south shore. Get your mahi or opakapaka burger to go and eat it across the street at Kalama Beach Park. 1913 S. K
hei Rd. ☎ 808/874-8888. $
The first Hawaiian settlers arrived by canoe. Unsurpassed navigators, early Polynesians used the stars, birds, and currents to guide them across thousands of miles. They packed their canoes with food, plants, medicine, tools, and animals: everything necessary for building a new life on a distant shore. No one is sure exactly when they arrived, but artifacts at the Malu‘uluo Lele Park in Lahaina (see p 51) date back to between a.d. 700 and 900.
Over the ensuing centuries, a distinctly Hawaiian culture arose. Sailors became farmers and fishermen. They built highly productive fishponds, terraced kalo lo‘i (taro patches), and massive rock heiau (temples). Farmers cultivated more than 400 varieties of kalo, their staple food; 300 types of sweet potato; and 40 different bananas. Hawaiian women fashioned intricately patterned kapa (barkcloth)—some of the finest in all of Polynesia.
Each of the Hawaiian Islands was its own kingdom, governed by ali‘i (high-ranking chiefs) who drew their authority from an established kapu (taboo) and caste system. Those who broke the kapu could be sacrificed. In the early years, Maui was divided into three chiefdoms: H
na, Wailuku, and Lahaina. Pi‘ilani, a 15th-century ruler from Hna, became the first to unite Maui. His rule was a time of peace; he built fishponds and began the highway that encircled the island.
The ancient Hawaiian creation chant, the Kumulip
, depicts a universe that began when heat and light emerged out of darkness, followed by the first life form: a coral polyp. The 2,000-line epic poem is a grand genealogy, describing how all species are interrelated, from gently waving seaweeds to mighty human warriors. It is the basis for the Hawaiian concept of kuleana, a word that simultaneously refers to privilege and responsibility. To this day, Native Hawaiians view the care of their natural resources as a filial duty and honor.
❽ K
hei. K
hei consists of unimaginative condos and mini-malls—crowded up against a string of golden beaches, every one near perfect. At the north end of town, the Hawaiian Islands Humpback Whale National Marine Sanctuary (725 K
hei Rd.; www.hawaiihumpbackwhale.noaa.gov; ☎ 808/879-2818) offers some background on the mighty whales that visit Hawai‘i from November to April. Next door, the Ko‘ie‘ie Fishpond is a prime example of ancient Hawaiian aquaculture. Continue north on K
hei Road to Kealia Pond National Wildlife Preserve (☎ 808/875-1582), a 700-acre (283ha) U.S. Fish and Wildlife wetland preserve that’s a fantastic place to see many endangered Hawaiian species, like the black-crowned herons and Hawaiian stilts, coots, and ducks. From July to December, hawksbill turtles come ashore here to lay eggs. Stroll along the preserve’s boardwalk, dotted with interpretive signs and shade shelters, through sand dunes, and around ponds. The boardwalk starts at the outlet of Kealia Pond on the ocean side of North K
hei Road (near MM 2 on Hwy. 31).
Continue north on Hwy. 31, then go left on Hwy. 30 to the M
‘alaea turn off. It’s about 3 miles (4.8km).
❾ ★★★ 
M
‘alaea. The star of this wind-blasted harborside village is the Maui Ocean Center, Hawai‘i’s largest aquarium. This 5-acre (2ha) facility houses numerous family-friendly exhibits, including a 100-foot-long (30m), 750,000-gallon tank featuring sharks, rays, and dazzling schools of fish. The aquarium is designed to usher you from the beach to the depths of the ocean. A see-through tunnel goes right through the tank, so you’re surrounded by marine creatures on all sides. If you’re a certified scuba diver, you can participate in the Shark Dive Maui Program, which allows you (for a fee of $199) to plunge into the aquarium and swim with the sharks, stingrays, and tropical fish. N 2 hr. or more. M
‘alaea Harbor Village, 192 M
‘alaea Rd. (the triangle btw. Honoapi‘ilani Hwy. and M
‘alaea Rd.). www.mauioceancenter.com. ☎ 808/270-7000. Buy tickets online to avoid long lines. Admission $28 adults, $25 seniors, $20 children 3–12. Daily 9am–5pm (until 6pm July–Aug).
The range of watersports available in Maui is astounding—this is a prime water playground with conditions for every age and ability. But the ocean is also an untamed wilderness; don’t expect a calm swimming pool.
Many people who visit Hawai‘i underestimate the power of the ocean. With just a few precautions, your Pacific experience can be a safe and happy one.
Before jumping in, familiarize yourself with your equipment. If you’re snorkeling, make sure you feel at ease breathing and clearing water from the snorkel.
Take a moment to watch where others are swimming. Observe weather conditions, swells, and possible riptides. If you get caught in big surf, dive underneath each wave until the swell subsides. Never turn your back to the ocean; rogue waves catch even experienced water folk unaware.
Be realistic about your fitness—more than one visitor has ended his or her vacation with a heart attack in the water.
Don’t go out alone, or during a storm.
Note that sharks are not a big problem in Hawai‘i; in fact, local divers look forward to seeing them. Only 2 of the 40 shark species present in Hawaiian waters are known to bite humans, and then usually it’s by accident. But here are the general rules for avoiding sharks: Don’t swim at dusk or in murky water—sharks may mistake you for one of their usual meals. And, while it should be obvious, it bears repeating: Don’t swim where there are bloody fish in the water, as sharks become aggressive around blood.
The central plain between Maui’s two volcanoes is the site of the main airport, where you’ll probably arrive. Distinctly un-touristy, it’s home to the majority of the island’s population, the heart of the business community, and the center of the local government. START: Waikap
.
❶ 
Waikap
. Tucked up against the verdant West Maui mountains, you’ll find the Maui Tropical Plantation (p 27). Spend an hour here riding the 40-minute narrated tram ride through fields of pineapple, vegetables, and plumeria trees, or soaring overhead on a zipline. Check out the country store and farm stand before you leave.
Turn left on Honoapi‘ilani Hwy #30 then left on Main Street. In .5 miles (.8km) take a slight right onto ‘
ao Valley Road. Follow it to the end, about 2 miles (3.2km).
❷ ★★ 
‘
ao Valley. This peaceful valley, full of tropical plants, rainbows, waterfalls, swimming holes, and hiking trails (two of them paved and easy), offers cool rejuvenation. The park and stream get their names from the ‘
ao Needle, a phallic rock that juts an impressive 2,250 feet (686m) above sea level. Pack a picnic, take your swimsuit, and spend a couple of hours in the shady rainforest. Kepaniwai Park has streamside picnic tables and charming memorial buildings that celebrate each of Hawai‘i’s diverse ethnic cultures: a Hawaiian thatched hale (house), a Filipino farmer’s hut, a Chinese pavilion, and a Portuguese villa. Note: At press time, the park was closed for repair after major flooding. ‘
ao Valley State Park, 54 S. High St., Wailuku. ☎ 808/984-8109. Open daily 10am–4pm.
Return via Main Street into the town of Wailuku.
❸ ★ Wailuku. With its faded wooden storefronts, old plantation homes, and shops straight out of the 1940s, quaint little Wailuku is worth exploring. Stop at the Bailey House Museum, then continue northeast of the town center to see the ancient sites of the Haleki‘i-Pihana Heiau State Monument. See p 71.
808 on Main. Pop into this bustling restaurant for hearty sandwiches, soups, and salads. The lamb lettuce cups and “Squealer” (pulled pork and coleslaw on a hoagie) are both tasty. 2051 Main St., Wailuku ☎ 808/242-1111.$$
Head east on Main St., which becomes Ka‘ahumanu Ave., leading into the town of Kahului.
❺ Kahului. Aside from picking up supplies at Costco or Whole Foods, this industrial town is not the place to spend your vacation. There are few attractions worth noting, however. The first is Maui Nui Botanical Gardens (150 Kanaloa Ave; www.mnbg.org; ☎ 808/249-2798). Once the site of a sad little zoo, the gardens are now a rich, living library of rare native Hawaiian plants. Ask to see the hapai (pregnant) banana trees that produce fruit inside their trunk. Then head to the Maui Arts & Cultural Center (1 Cameron Way; www.mauiarts.org; ☎ 808/242-7469) where the Schaefer International Gallery hosts top-quality art exhibits. From here, head over to Kanah
Beach Park, where kiters and windsurfers catch air and twirl above the surf like fluorescent butterflies. Across the street, peek into the Kanah
Wildlife Sanctuary (Haleakal
Hwy. Ext. and H
na Hwy; ☎ 808/984-8100). See if you can spot an endangered Hawaiian stilt—a tuxedoed bird with skinny pink legs.
From Ka‘ahumanu Ave., turn south on Pu‘un
n
Ave. Follow it through town to Hansen Rd. Turn left and the Sugar Museum is on your left.
❻ Pu‘un
n
. Soak up a little more colorful history in this central Maui ghost town. Once a thriving sugar-plantation town, Pu‘un
n
today consists of a post office, a shuttered sugar mill, and the Alexander & Baldwin Sugar Museum (p 45).
[A visit to remote Kalaupapa on the island of Moloka‘i is a once-in-a-lifetime experience. This isolated peninsula at the base of the world’s tallest sea cliffs is a simply stunning locale. You must travel here on foot, by mule, or by plane—there’s no road, and access by water is not allowed—but the trek is well worth the effort. Kalaupapa’s lush valleys once supported several Native Hawaiian communities. But residents were evicted in 1865 when King Kamehameha V signed the Act to Prevent the Spread of Leprosy, which ultimately sent some 8,000 people with the disease (now called Hansen’s Disease) to this natural prison. The exiles’ suffering was eased somewhat by the arrival of Father Damien, a Belgian priest who worked tirelessly on their behalf. Patients were finally freed to come and go in the 1960s, but a handful of elderly folks still live here. To protect their privacy, visitation is restricted to 100 people a day, age 16 and older, with permits. START: Kahului Airport on Maui.
Travel Tip
One alternative to the mule ride is to hike down the Kalaupapa Trail. To do that, you’ll need to book the first flight to Ho‘olehua Airport, arrange airport transfer to the trailhead in Kualapu‘u, and plan to start hiking by 7:30am in order to meet Damien Tours at the base of the sea cliffs by 9am. The descent takes 60 to 90 minutes to hike; it’s 90 to 120 minutes back up.
❶ Kahului Airport, Maui. Plan to fly out early—it’s only a half-hour flight to Molokai, but you must get there in time to meet your mule tour by 7:30am, so you can meet the bus tour by 9am. If you’re worried about logistics, consider flying to Moloka‘i the day before your tour and spending the night. See ”Travel Tip,“ below.
❷ Moloka‘i Airport. If you’ve signed up for the mule ride (see ❸), fly into Ho‘olehua airport, where Kalaupapa Mule Tour guides will meet you to transport you to the mule barn. A quicker, equally scenic option is to fly directly into Kalaupapa by booking a tour package with Makani Air (www.makaniair.com; ☎ 808/834-1111).
❸ ★★★ Kalaupapa Mule Tour. Get to the Sproat family’s mule barn no later than 7:30am. The guides will select the perfect animal for you to ride. The surefooted animals step down the narrow, muddy trail daily, rain or shine, pausing often to calculate their next move—and always, it seems to me, veering a little too close to the edge. The first switchback may make you gasp, but the mules have safely tromped up and down the trail for years. N 7.5 hr. round trip. 100 Kalae Hwy., Ste. 104, on Hwy. 470, 5 mi (8km) north of Hwy. 460. www.muleride.com. ☎ 800/567-7550. $209 per person. Riders must be at least 16 years old and physically fit.
❹ ★★★ Kalaupapa Trail. The trail is only 3 miles long, but it zig-zags down a knuckle-whitening 1,700-foot cliff, via a series of 26 switchbacks. Whether you ride it or hike it, take time to savor the views.
❺ ★★★ Damien Tours. To explore this beautiful and haunting place, you must join Damien Tours (www.damientoursllc.com; ☎ 808/567-6171) for a 3-hour tour of the peninsula’s most fascinating sites. Tours cost $50. Whether you arrive by foot, mule or plane, you’ll be met by a friendly guide driving an old school bus around 9−9:30am. Climb aboard for a journey along the steep, craggy cliffs to Father Damien’s grave. Born to wealth in Belgium in 1840, Father Damien arrived on Moloka‘i in 1873 and devoted his life to caring for the sufferers of Hansen’s Disease. He himself died of the disease in 1889 and was canonized in 2009. Other tour stops include St. Philomena Church, built by patients in 1872, and Kalaupapa Book Store, filled with a wealth of information on the history and people of this place, and their remarkable resilience.
Travel Tip
If the simplicity of Moloka‘i appeals to you, consider spending the night and taking a day or two to explore the island. There is only one hotel on the island, Hotel Molokai, Kamehameha V Hwy., Kaunakakai (www.hotelmolokai.com; ☎ 877/553-5347 or 808/660-3408). Rates here start at $169. If you’d prefer a condo or vacation rental, contact Molokai Vacation Properties (www.molokai-vacation-rental.com; ☎ 800/367-2984 or 808/553-8334). The agents represent an assortment of fantastic rentals, most of them oceanfront and all guaranteed to be clean and fully equipped. You can book online, but it’s best to contact the office directly. Their customer service is excellent.
A 10,023-foot tall volcano lords over Maui. The fertile slopes of Haleakal
, or House of the Sun, are home to cowboys, farmers, and easygoing folk. Crisp air, rolling green pastures, and flower farms are the highlights of the area known as “upcountry.” Bring a jacket; as locals like to joke, “It’s cooler in Kula.” START: Makawao.
❶ ★ Makawao. Maui has a longstanding tradition of ranchers and rodeo masters, and this cool, misty upcountry town is its epicenter. Modern-day paniolo (cowboys) come here to fuel up on cream puffs and stick donuts from Komoda Store & Bakery, 3674 Baldwin Ave. (☎ 808/572-7261), a 100-year-old family grocery that seems frozen in time. The neighboring businesses offer chic clothing, fine art, and decent snacks. Five minutes down Baldwin Avenue, you’ll find the gracious Hui No‘eau Visual Arts Center (p 116).
Take Makawao Avenue to the light at Kula Hwy #37, turn left. Turn left at Ke St., then right onto Lower Kula Rd.
La Provence. Every item in this French bakery is exquisite. Arrive before noon or risk watching the mango blueberry scone walk out the door without you. Enjoy an addictively good crepe in the garden. 3158 Lower Kula Hwy. ☎ 808/878-1313. $$.
Return to Kula Hwy. #37. It’s a 20-minute detour down ‘
maopio Rd. to Surfing Goat Dairy and about a 20-minute detour up Waipoli Rd. to Ali‘i Kula Lavender Farm. (You can also hit Surfing Goat Dairy at the end, on your way back down the mountain.)
❸ ★ Kula. Continue south through the bucolic rolling hills of this upland community, past old flower farms, humble cottages, and new suburban ranch houses with million-dollar views that take in the ocean, isthmus, West Maui Mountains, L
na‘i, and Kaho‘olawe in the distance. Kula sits at a cool 3,000 feet (914m), just below the cloud line, and from here a winding road snakes its way up to Haleakal
National Park (see p 89). Everyone in this area grows something—Maui onions, carnations, orchids, and proteas, those strange-looking blossoms that look like “Star Trek” props. Must stops: Surfing Goat Dairy (p 39) and Ali‘i Kula Lavender Farm (p 40).
Continue on Hwy. 37 for 11 miles (17.7km).
❹ ★ K
kea. Fill up your gas tank in this charming blink-and-you’ll-miss-it town. Peruse the whimsical artwork at Keokea Gallery (9230 Kula Hwy., ☎ 808/878-3555) and sip a cup of Joe at Grandma’s Coffee House (p 16).
Continue on Hwy. 37 for 17 miles (27km).
❺ ★ ‘Ulupalakua. The final stop on the upcountry tour is ‘Ulupalakua Ranch, a 20,000-acre (8,094ha) spread once owned by legendary sea captain James Makee. The ranch is now home to Maui’s only winery, established in 1974 by Napa vintner Emil Tedeschi. Stop in the tasting room and sample a few vintages, which have truly improved with age. Across from the winery are the remains of the three smokestacks of the Makee Sugar Mill, built in 1878. This is home to Maui artist Reems Mitchell, who carved the mannequins on the front porch of the ‘Ulupalakua Ranch Store: a Filipino with his fighting cock, a cowboy, a farmhand, and a sea captain, each representing a piece of Maui history. MauiWine, 14815 Pi‘ilani Hwy. www.mauiwine.com. ☎ 808/878-6058. Daily 10am–5:30pm. Free tastings; free tours given 10:30am and 1:30pm.
Top down, sunscreen on, swimsuit handy, and radio tuned to a Hawaiian music station: It’s time to explore the H
na Highway (Hwy. 36). This wiggle of a road winds for 45 miles (72km) along Maui’s northeastern shore, passing taro patches, magnificent seascapes, waterfall pools, botanical gardens, and verdant rainforests. Bring water, snacks, beach towels, and a fully charged camera. The drive itself should take only about 2 hours, but plan to spend a full day to enjoy all the sights along the way. START: P
‘ia.
❶ P
‘ia. Fuel up on gas and groceries. There are several options for breakfast, if you’d like a hearty meal before you go. See p 123 for more details.
Mana Foods. Stock up on sandwiches, drinks, and ginger candies to stave off potential road sickness. 49 Baldwin Ave., P
‘ia. ☎ 808/579-8078. $
Drive east on the H
na Highway (Hwy. 36) until just before MM 9.
❸ ★ 
Ho‘okipa Beach Park. See p 78.
After MM 16, the road is still called the H
na Highway, but the number changes from Hwy. 36 to Hwy. 360, and the mile markers go back to 0. Stop at MM 2.
❹ Twin Falls. Pull over on the mountainside and park; the waterfall and pool are a 3- to 5-minute walk. The mountain stream water is a bit chilly when you first get in, but it’s good for swimming. If it’s crowded, keep going; plenty of other waterfalls are coming up on this next stretch of the road, which gets narrower and extra-curvy from here on. Try counting every fern-draped bridge you cross—at least 59 of them before you get to Han
, including many beautiful, one-lane arches built 100 years ago.
Continue to MM 9.
❺ 
Waikamoi Nature Trail. Stretch your legs here with an easy .75-mile (1.2km) loop-trail hike. Look for the Quiet Trees at Work sign and follow the path.
Just past MM 12, you’ll find:
❻ 
Kaumahina State Wayside Park. This is a good pit stop, with actual restrooms and a great view of the rugged coastline all the way down to the jutting Ke‘anae Peninsula.
Between MM 16 and MM 17, take right-hand turn-off to reach:
❼ ★★ 
Ke‘anae Arboretum. Maui’s botany is represented here in three parts: native forest; introduced forest; and traditional Hawaiian food and medicine plants. You can swim in the refreshing pools of Pi‘ina‘au Stream or walk a mile-long (1.6km) trail into Ke‘anae Valley’s lush tropical rainforest.
Return to H
na Hwy. Just past MM 17, turn left (north) onto Ke‘anae Rd., which leads down to the Ke‘anae Peninsula.
❽ ★★★ 
Ke‘anae Peninsula. The old Hawaiian village of Ke‘anae stands out against the Pacific like a place time forgot. For untold generations, Native Hawaiians have lived off the land here, diverting fresh stream water into their kalo lo‘i (taro patches). Take a reverent stroll through the Ke‘anae Congregational Church (☎ 808/248-8040), built in 1860 of lava rocks and coral mortar; it stands in stark contrast to the surrounding green fields. Stop by Aunty Sandy’s (210 Ke‘anae Rd., ☎ 808/248-7448) for warm banana bread.
Return to H
na Highway and continue east for about 1⁄4 mile. Look for a turnout on your left (ocean side).
❾ Ke‘anae Lookout. Stop here to take in a postcard-worthy panorama of the entire Ke‘anae Peninsula, from its checkerboard pattern of green taro fields to its salt-kissed coast etched in black lava.
Around MM 18 look for:
❿ Uncle Harry’s Fruit & Flower Stand. On this stretch of the road, you’ll start to see numerous small stands selling fruit or flowers. Uncle Harry sells a variety of fruits and juices Monday through Saturday.
Just before MM 19.
⓫ ★★ Wailua Valley State Wayside. Climb the stairs beneath an archway of hau (tree hibiscus) for jaw-dropping views in both directions: the taro patches of Wailua village on side and the waterfalls of Ko‘olau Gap on the other. Imagine the massive erosional forces that carved this valley.
Between MM 22 and MM 23.
⓬ Pua‘a Ka‘a State Wayside. Waterfalls provide background music for this small park area with a shaded picnic area and restrooms. Cross the stream to take a quick dip in the falls. Ginger plants are everywhere: Pick some and stash them in your car so that you can travel with their sweet smell.
Just after MM 25, turn left onto narrow N
hiku Rd., which leads 3 miles (4.8km) from the highway, at about 1,000 feet (305m) elevation, down to sea level.
⓭ N
hiku. This remote, wildly beautiful area was once a thriving village of thousands; today the population has dwindled to fewer than a hundred—including a few Hawaiian families, but mostly extremely wealthy mainland residents who jet in for a few weeks at a time. At the end of the road, you can see the remains of the old wharf from the town’s rubber-plantation days. There’s a small picnic area off to the side. Dolphins are frequently seen in the bay.
Continue south on Hwy. 360. You’ll have your choice of refreshment stops, one at MM 27.5, the other just past MM 28.
Coconut Glen’s. When you see Coconut Glen’s rainbow-splashed sign, pull over and indulge in some truly splendid ice cream—dairy-free and made with coconut milk. Scoops of chocolate chili, lilikoi, and honey macadamia nut ice cream are served in coconut bowls, with coconut chips as spoons. This whimsical stand oozes aloha. From here, you’re only 20 minutes away from Hna town. Hna Hwy., at MM 27.5 www.coconutglens.com; ☎ 808/248-4876.
N
hiku Coffee Shop. What a delight to stumble across this small coffee shop with locally made baked goods, Maui-grown coffee, banana bread, organic tropical-fruit smoothies, and my favorite, the Original and Best Coconut Candy. It’s part of a cluster of a half dozen food stands selling hot dishes—though you can never be sure which will be open when. My favorite is the Thai place at the end. Hna Hwy. 1⁄2 mile past MM 28. No phone. $.
H
na is where islanders come for vacation. After the long journey to get here, take a deep breath. Inhale the scent of sea salt, white ginger, and ripe guava. Ahhhh . . . this is probably what you came to Maui in search of. H
na enjoys more than 90 inches of rain a year, more than enough to keep the scenery lush. Banyans, bamboo, breadfruit trees—everything seems larger than life in this rainforested coastal town. Explore the magical landscape: red and black sand beaches, valleys threaded with silver waterfalls, and sparkling blue pools. Be extra kind to the locals; remember, you’re only one of hundreds of visitors who breeze through their humble community every day. START: H
na.
Travel Tip
Wake early to see the sun rise out of the sea. In the morning hours you’ll have Hna’s waterfalls and beaches all to yourself. Day-trippers arrive in town around 11am and stay until about 4pm; during that window, the area is overrun with hundreds of people, all in a hurry. By staying here overnight, you can avoid them and soak up the extra solitude.
From Hwy. 360 turn toward the ocean on Ula‘ino Road, just past MM 31.
❶ ★★ 
Kahanu Garden. Plan to arrive when the gate opens at 10am to have plenty of time to explore this 472-acre (191ha) garden, including the world’s largest collection of breadfruit trees. Across the wide lawn, you’ll see the imposing Pi‘ilanihale Heiau, a massive temple built by a lineage of powerful Maui chiefs. The structure’s mammoth proportions are humbling: 3 acres (1.2 ha) with stacked rock walls 50 feet (15m) tall and 8-to-10 feet (2.4m–3m) thick. Historians believe it was built in several stages, beginning as early as the 13th century, with basalt rocks hand-carried from H
na Bay, some 5 miles (8km) away. The breadfruit trees at the base of the back wall are likely descendants of those planted in ancient times. N 1 hr. Ula‘ino Rd. www.ntbg.org. ☎ 808/248-8912. Guided tours $25; self-guided tours $10; children 12 and under free. Mon–Sat 9am–2pm.
Continuing east on Hwy. 360, just past MM 32, turn left and take Honokulani Rd. to the ocean.
❷ ★★★ 
Wai‘
napanapa State Park. Get up early to see shiny black-sand Wai‘
napanapa Beach and hike the coastal trail. Plan to spend at least a couple of hours at this 120-acre (49ha) park that appears like a vivid dream, with bright-green jungle foliage on three sides and cobalt-blue water lapping at its shore. Swimming in the ocean is not the best here (rough seas, strong currents), but you can plunge into a freshwater cave pool just above the beach. Warm up by walking the coastal trail past blowholes, sea arches, and lauhala groves. End of Honokalani Rd., off H
na Hwy. (Hwy. 360), H
na. ☎ 808/248-4843. Open daily 24 hours.
Continue on Hwy. 360. As you enter Hna, the road splits about 1⁄2 mile (.8km) past MM 33, at the police station. Both roads will take you to H
na, but Uakea Road is more scenic.
❸ ★★ 
H
na Cultural Center and Museum. With the sun starting to reach its zenith, take a cooling break while touring this small museum’s excellent collection of Hawaiian quilts, artifacts, books, and photos. Kids will love the thatched hale (houses) for cooking and canoe storage. N 30 min. 4974 Uakea Rd. www.hanaculturalcenter.org. ☎ 808/248-8622. Mon–Fri 10am–4pm; $3 donation.
From Uakea Rd., turn left on Keawa Pl. to the bay.
❹ ★ 
H
na Bay. Come here to watch the activities in the bay—fishermen throwing net, paddlers pulling their canoes into the water, and local kids belly-flopping off the pier. You’ll find restrooms, showers, picnic tables, barbecues, and a snack bar here. The red cinder cone looming over the southeast side of the bay is Kau‘iki Hill, the birthplace in 1768 of Queen Ka‘ahumanu, who played a huge role in Hawai‘i’s history by encouraging her people to convert from the old religion to Christianity.
Go to the south end of Uakea Rd. and park.
❺ Kaihalulu Beach. See p 79 for directions to, and a description of, this stunning “hidden” red-sand beach.
Return to H
na Hwy. 360. Park across the street from the hotel.
❻ Travaasa H
na. If you can afford it, this is THE place to stay in H
na (and one of the state’s top resorts). If they aren’t too busy, the staff generally is amenable to taking you on a tour in their speedy golf carts. Ask to see the sausage tree, and the dogtooth anklet in the lobby. They have an excellent spa here, too. Plan on a half-hour to see this elegant resort, longer if you want to get a meal or a drink at one of the restaurants here. See p 150.
❼ 
Fagan’s Cross. Across the street from the Travaasa H
na, find the trailhead for an uphill hike to the 30-foot-high (9m) white cross (made of lava rock), erected in memory of Paul Fagan, who founded H
na Ranch as well as the hotel formerly known as Hotel H
na-Maui. The 3-mile (4.8km) round-trip hike provides a gorgeous view of the H
na coast, especially at sunset. The uphill trail starts across H
na Highway from the Travassa H
na. (Enter the pastures at your own risk; they’re often occupied by glaring bulls and cows with new calves.) Watch your step as you ascend this steep hill. The hike can take 1 to 2 hours, depending on how fast you hike and how long you linger at the top admiring the breathtaking view.
South on Hwy. 360, just past Hauoli Rd., the next 4 sites are in close proximity.
❽ Wananalua Congregation Church. Stop for photos of this historic church, built from coral stones from 1838 to 1842 during the missionary rush to convert the natives. N 15 min. Hwy. 360, just past Hauoli Rd.
❾ H
na Ranch Center. This small cluster of buildings comprises H
na’s entire commercial center, with a post office, bank, general store, and H
na Ranch Restaurant. Mill Place, off of H
na Hwy. 360.
❿ ★ Hasegawa General Store. This legendary general store, established in 1910 and immortalized in song since 1961, is a good place to find picnic items (chips, fruit, cookies, soda, bread, lunch fixings) and H
na-specific souvenirs. There’s also an ATM if you’re low on cash for fruit stands. 5165 H
na Hwy. ☎ 808/248-8231.
Hna Food Trucks. A caravan of food trucks has rushed to fill the void of culinary options in this remote outpost. A minute down the road from Hasegawa’s, Ono Organic Farm has a stand selling gorgeous, ripe tropical fruit. The trucks behind the stand have a decent selection of plate lunches and fish tacos, but the best meal is to be found a little further on at Hna Burger (5670 Hna Hwy. 360). www.hanaranch.com/hana-burger. ☎ 808/268-2820). Hna Ranch supplies this food truck with grass-fed beef and beautiful tomatoes. The gourmet burgers taste great pared with the bucolic view. The only downside: it’s often closed.
Head south on Hwy. 360 and turn left on Haneo‘o Rd.
⓬ ★★ H
moa Beach. See p 78. En route to H
moa, look also for red-sand Koki Beach, which is visible from Haneo‘o Road.
Haneo‘o Rd. rejoins Hana Hwy. 360. Continue south another 7 miles (11km).
⓭ ★★★ 
‘Ohe‘o Gulch. Time to hit the water again, in the K
pahulu section of Haleakal
National Park (see p 89). For years people called this series of stair-step waterfalls “Seven Sacred Pools.” It’s a misnomer; there are more than 7 pools—and all water in Hawai‘i is considered sacred. Park rangers offer safety information, exhibits, books, and a variety of walks and hikes year-round; check at the station for current activities. Don’t miss the magnificent 400-foot (122m) Waimoku Falls, reachable via an often-muddy, but rewarding, hour-long uphill hike through a magical bamboo forest. Expect showers on the K
pahulu coast. www.nps.gov/hale. ☎ 808/248-7375. Admission $25 per car.
Continue 1 mile (1.6km) past ‘Ohe‘o Gulch on the ocean side of Hwy. 360.
⓮ Lindbergh’s Grave. Aviation fans make the trek to honor renowned pilot Charles A. Lindbergh (1902–1974), who was the first to fly solo across the Atlantic. He settled in K
pahulu, where he died of cancer in 1974, and was buried under river stones in a seaside graveyard behind the 1857 Palapala Ho‘omau Congregational Church. You’ll have no trouble finding his tombstone, which is engraved with his favorite words from the 139th Psalm: “If I take the wings of the morning and dwell in the uttermost parts of the sea.”
Drive about 6 miles (9.6km) farther on Hwy. 360, which becomes Pi‘ilani Hwy 31.
⓯ Kaup
. If you still have daylight, continue on (or wait until the next day) to remote, rural Kaup
. The road turns to gravel at times, but isn’t too bad—despite what your rental car agent might claim. Kaup
highlights include the lovingly restored 1859 Huialoha Church (www.huialohachurchkaupo.org) with its old schoolhouse ruins and lovely pebble beach; and farther down the road, the Kaupo Store, an eclectic old country store that carries a range of bizarre goods and doesn’t keep any of its posted hours, but is a fun place to “talk story” with the staff about this area, which at one time supported a substantial population. Store: ☎ 808/248-8054. Mon–Sat 10am–5pm. •
