East Coast & Islands
The eastern side of the island is dramatically different from the rest of Puerto Rico in several regards. It receives the brunt of the rainfall, feeding the lush rainforest of El Yunque, a tropical paradise that offers the island’s best hiking. This is the domain, too, of high-end all-inclusive hotels, which are concentrated around Palmas del Mar in the south. The boating center of Fajardo is the gateway for excursions by ferry to the laid-back isles of Vieques and Culebra, which boast Puerto Rico’s most sensational beaches and exquisite boutique hotels, and are fast evolving as centers for nature-focused adventure trips.
1. Vieques
This idyllic island is fringed by fabulous beaches, the best of which became accessible to the public only in the early 2000s, after 50 years of use by the US navy. Parts of the island’s wildlife refuge can be accessed by hiking and mountain-biking trails. In the island’s only town, Isabel Segunda, locals on horseback outnumber cars, and there is a fort, lighthouse, and an art gallery. Try paddling a kayak at night at Bahía de Bioluminiscente for an experience you’ll always remember. Better yet, take a nocturnal dip in the waters and watch yourself glow (for further details see Vieques).
2. Culebra
Life on this lovely island, Vieques’ smaller twin, revolves around the sleepy village of Dewey. US expatriates operate most businesses in town, many of which offer world-class diving and snorkeling trips. The island’s many white-sand beaches include Playa Flamenco, which is considered to be Puerto Rico’s most beautiful. A quarter of Culebra is a wildlife refuge, and is good for spotting marine turtles and birds, and manatees.
3. El Yunque
Less than an hour’s drive from San Juan, the El Yunque National Forest draws scores of city folk on weekends and holidays to hike well-maintained trails that lead through sodden forests. The lowland rainforest and upland cloudforests teem with birds and riotously noisy coquís. A splendid visitors’ center sets the scene for hikes along 36 miles (58 km) of trails, one of which ascends to El Yunque’s highest point. Carry along some rain gear when hiking as clouds can form without warning and sudden deluges are common, notably in the afternoon.
4. Playa Pinones
Join the picnickers from San Juan at this popular beach on weekends, and dig into local favorites, such as alcapurria, served at the food shacks here. Traffic jams can be a nightmare, but the 7-mile (11-km) long Paseo Piñones Recreational Trail, running along the shore, grants access for pedestrians and cyclists. If you tire of sunning, trails lead into the wetlands inland of the beach.
5. Rio Grande
This beach resort was once a giant coconut and sugarcane plantation. Today it boasts magnificent golf courses and hotels lining lovely beaches. The river after which the resort is named winds through the nearby marshland and mangroves, which can be explored on boat trips. The town of Río Grande comes alive with music and dance during the Carnaval Ciudad de El Yunque, held here each June.
6. Luquillo
The beauty of this beachside town is enhanced by the brooding Sierra Luquillo mountains, which form a dramatic backdrop. The sand here melds into warm, reef-protected waters that are great for snorkeling. Playa Luquillo has a section known as Mar Sin Barreras, which is equipped for handicapped visitors. Further east, wind-whipped Playa Azul and Playa La Selva are washed by breakers that are good for surfing.
Mar Sin Barreras • 787 889 4329 • open 8:30am–5pm
7. Reserva Natural La Cordillera
This group of coral cays, sprinkled across the Atlantic in a chain northeast of Fajardo, protects the nesting sites of seabirds and marine turtles. Dolphins are often seen on boat excursions from Fajardo, and the turquoise waters of the preserve are a snorkeler’s delight. El Conquistador Resort has an exclusive lease on Isla Palominos, where watersports are offered for guests.
Erin Go Bragh Sailing and Snorkeling Charters • 787 860 4401 • www.egbc.net
8. El Conquistador Resort
This fabulous hilltop resort in Fajardo overlooks Playa las Croabas and Vieques Sound, and with 910 rooms, is Puerto Rico’s largest hotel. Every half an hour, water taxis depart the resort’s marina for Isla Palominos, where guests can enjoy watersports. The resort boasts a water theme park for guests only, but the hotel’s casino and 18-hole golf course are open to the public.
9. Reserva Natural Las Cabezas de San Juan
This preserve, at the northeast tip of the island, protects lush mangroves and wildlife-rich lagoons. Manatees are seen in Laguna Grande, which glows with bioluminescence at night, and the many bird species found here include osprey, heron, and the Puerto Rican parrot. A trail leads to a lighthouse dating from 1882.787 722 5882 • Guided tours only • Adm
10. Palmas del Mar
This gated beachfront resort complex has a marina, shopping areas, tennis courts, an equestrian center, and two championship golf courses, all of which are open to the public. Accommodations at Wyndham Garden are plush, and there are also rental villas and condominiums. Dive trips are offered from Marina de Palmas.787 852 8888 • www.palmasdelmar.com
Ousting the Navy
During World War II, the US Navy began using Culebra and Vieques for target practice and amphibious assault training. On “red flag” days, locals were denied access to their own beaches. In the 1970s, they began “sit-ins” on the beach. Others even organized violent attacks on navy facilities. After being elected in 2000, Sila Calderón (the island’s first female governor) campaigned for the navy’s withdrawal, and in 2003, it finally withdrew.
Day Trip to Vieques
Morning
Start your day early and drive or take a taxi to Fajardo, arriving half an hour before the 9:30am ferry departure to Vieques (9am on Saturday and Sunday). Alternatively, you can fly to Vieques from San Juan with Vieques Air Link (for further details see Internal Flights). In Isabel Segunda, turn left out of the ferry terminal and follow Calle Morropo uphill to the town’s lighthouse and the Siddhia Hutchinson Art Gallery. Return to the waterfront and turn right onto Calle Benítez Guzman and head for Plaza Muñoz Rivera. Here, visit the Spanish-Renaissance style Parroquia Immaculada Concepción church, built in 1860, then continue up Calle Fuerte to Fort Conde Mirasol, housing the Vieques Art & History Museum, where you can learn about the island’s past through interesting exhibits.
Afternoon
Return to the town center and pick up a pre-arranged scooter or Jeep rental. Head south to Esperanza for a burger or pizza lunch at Bananas. Afterward, drive west, and on Carretera 200, turn left and follow the coast to Laguna Kiani. Take time to explore the mangrove boardwalk before continuing west to Green Beach. Spend the rest of your afternoon snorkeling or simply relax here. Drop in at the island’s romantic Carambola for a candlelit dinner before returning to Isabel Segunda to take the ferry back to Fajardo.
Best of the Rest
1. Loiza Aldea
This coastal town began life as a slave settlement and remains a center for Afro-Caribbean culture. The Iglesia Espíritu Santo stands on the town plaza and is the oldest church in continuous use on the island.
2. Carnival in Loiza Aldea
Loíza Aldea bursts into colorful life in late July for the week-long Festival de Santiago Apóstol, a vibrant celebration of the island’s African heritage.
3. Bosque Estatal Pinones
This preserve protects a huge mangrove forest and has hiking trails. Kayaks can be rented to explore the lagoons.
Piñones Ecotours • 787 253 0005
4. Crab Festival, Maunabo
In late August or early September each year, the town of Maunabo hosts a festival, with live music, street fairs, and stalls selling crab dishes.
5. Kayaking
Opportunities for kayaking abound at Bahía de Fosforescente on Vieques (for further details see Excursions to Vieques & Culebra), Bosque Estatal Piñones, and Reserva Natural La Cordillera.
6. Playa Vacia Talega
This beach has ancient sand dunes that were sculpted into fascinating formations by wind and surf and “cemented” in place over eons.
7. Culebrita
Relax on Playa Tortuga or snorkel in the warm shallows, known as The Baths, at this tiny coral cay (for further details see Culebrita).
Culebrita Adventure Eco-Tour • Ferry Dock, Culebra • 787 930 2111
8. Sport Fishing
The north coast of Puerto Rico is a prime ground for catching marlin and other gamefish, and the shallows around Vieques and Culebra are good for bonefishing (for further details see Sport Fishing).
9. Hiking
El Yunque National Forest has hiking trails that run through various rain forest habitats. For a contrast, hike the subtropical dry forests of Vieques Wildlife Refuge.
10. Ferry Journey
The 1-hour journey between Fajardo and Vieques or Culebra is magnificently scenic, offering views of El Yunque and the islands of Vieques Sound. Reserve your tickets in advance.Ferry terminals • Fajardo: 787 863 3360 • Vieques & Culebra: 787 801 0251
