Samoa
Samoa Highlights
Upolu
Apia
City Walk
Around Apia
Eastern Upolu
South Coast
Northwestern Upolu
Manono
Apolima
Savai’i
Salelologa & the East Coast
Central North Coast
Northwestern Savai’i
South Coast
Understand Samoa
Samoa Today
History
The Culture
Sport
Arts
Environment
Survival Guide
Samoa
%685 / Pop 190,372
Why Go?
Serene but spirited, wild yet well-manicured, hushed but birthed by volcanic explosions; stunning Samoa is a paradisaical paradox. Despite its intense natural beauty – all iridescent seas, jade jungles and crystal waterfalls – this is a humble place, devoid of mega-resorts and flashy attractions, but with welcomes as warm as the island sun.
Geographically and culturally, this small nation is considered the heart of Polynesia. Though the missionaries of the 1800s were enormously influential, the country has nevertheless clung to Fa’a Samoa (the Samoan Way), making it one of the most authentic and traditional of all Pacific societies: in some parts of the islands you’re more likely to see someone juggling fire than a house with walls.
Despite its isolation, Samoa offers accessible adventures. From the relative ruckus of Apia to the soul-stirring silence of Savai’i, you’ll find a paradise that is safe, sweet and easy to get around.
When to Go
ADec–Jan Peak holiday period when Samoans living abroad visit home.
AMay–Oct Dry season and festival time.
ANov–Apr Steamy weather and cyclone season.
Best Places to Stay
Best Places to Eat
A Palusami
Samoa Highlights
1 Sleeping in a traditional Samoan fale such as those on Namu’a island.
2 Soaking up the village vibe while strolling around the tiny white-sand-encircled island of Manono.
3 Stepping off the perfect flax-coloured sands into the blinding turquoise waters of Aleipata’s beaches.
4 Partying with the locals in the bars and nightclubs in Apia.
5 Admiring the sunset from the sacred sites of Cape Mulinu’u.
6 Bathing in the idyllic sunken waters of the To Sua Ocean Trench.
7 Exploring an old lava tunnel, swimming and getting covered in mud at Savai’i’s Dwarf’s Cave.
8 Having a lost-world moment battling overgrown weeds and lost trails before standing atop the mysterious Pulemelei Mound.
Upolu
Pop 143,418 / Area 1125 sq km
Enchanting Upolu may be small in size, but it’s huge on options. Beach-bumming or bushwalking? Resort cocktails or billiard-hall beers? Diving or do-nothing? Whatever floats your holiday boat, odds are you’ll find it here.
Home to the international airport, the capital city and the bulk of the country’s population, Upolu is where nearly all travellers begin their Samoan sojourn. The majority get their first glimpse of local life on the 35km drive from the airport to Apia, where a procession of tidy villages, incongruously large churches and rickety fruit stalls line perhaps the slowest highway in the world (the speed limit is 40km/h).
Most visitors devote themselves to the dazzling strips of sand skirting Upolu’s southern shoreline, with forays into pristine offshore lagoons that shelter colourful coral groves and schools of fish; the ethereal To Sua Ocean Trench attracts those keen on the surreal swim of a lifetime. But Upolu also has its fair share of terra firma treasures: the tangled rainforest of the interior, rough coastal cliffs formed by the cooling of lava rivers and fascinating craters and caves. The urban delights of Apia shouldn’t be neglected either – not if you fancy the odd boogie, movie, or the country’s best eating and drinking establishments.
Upolu
1Top Sights
1Sights
2Activities, Courses & Tours
4Sleeping
5Eating
3Entertainment
8Getting Around
To/From the Airport
Faleolo Airport is on the coast, 35km west of Apia. Many resorts and hotels offer transfers; otherwise there’s always an armada of taxis ready to ferry arrivals to the city or other Upolu destinations. The fare to Apia is around ST60.
If you’re travelling alone, it’s cheaper to catch an airport shuttle. It pays to prebook, but you’ll usually spot them waiting across from the terminal for all of the major international flights. Samoa Scenic Tours has shuttles that stop at any of Apia’s hotels (about ST47, 45 minutes); it also offers transfers to other Upolu resorts.
Many of the international flights arrive and depart at ungodly hours, but if you’re lucky enough to have one at a reasonable time, buses are an option. Walk out to the main road and hail any bus approaching from your right to get to Apia. To get to Faleolo Airport from Apia (ST4), take any bus marked ‘Pasi o le Va’a’, ‘Manono-uta’, ‘Falelatai’ or ‘Faleolo’.
Bus
Buses connecting Apia with almost every other part of Upolu leave from both Maketi Fou (the main market) and from behind the Flea Market. Drivers circle between the two until the bus is full (this can take up to an hour) and are liable to veer off route to deposit locals at their front doors. There are set bus stops on the coastal road, but if you hail the driver they’ll stop almost anywhere. Pay as you leave the bus. Fares within Apia range from ST1 to ST1.80. The most you'll pay for a trip anywhere in Upolu is ST8.50. Buses begin running early in the morning and stop in the early afternoon, though services are limited on Sundays.
A bus schedule for Upolu that includes fare information is available by emailing the Samoa Tourism Authority ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %63500; www.samoa.travel; Beach Rd; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 8am-noon Sat).
To reach the Aleipata district at the eastern end of the island, catch the Lalomanu bus. To head east along the north coast, take the Falefa, Fagaloa or Lotofaga bus. For any point along the Cross Island Rd, take either the Si’umu or Salani bus. For Togitogiga and O Le Pupu-Pu’e National Park, take the Falealili or Salani bus.
Car
The main roads in Upolu range from pristine to potholed. The national speed limit maxes out at 56km/h and drops to 40km/h through villages (omnipresent speed humps ensure you never forget to slow down); as there are very few stretches of road that don’t pass through villages, expect to be driving at a snail's pace most of the time. The sealed Main Coast Rd winds its way around Upolu, while three roads cross over the island’s east–west central ridge and divide it roughly into quarters.
Be aware: though there are very few main roads, there is an even greater dearth of street signs. Those that exist mostly point the way to obscure villages (rather than, say, the airport). Roads often veer off in the opposite direction of the one you might wish to take, with no notice at all. Don't be shy about asking for directions.
A high-clearance 2WD vehicle should be adequate for all but the roads to Uafato and to Aganoa Black Sand Beach (4WD only). Outside of Apia and the stretch between the city and the airport, petrol stations are in short supply.
SAMOA IN...
FIVE DAYS
Spend a day or two exploring Apia, making sure to visit the Samoa Cultural Village, Palolo Deep Marine Reserve, the Robert Louis Stevenson Museum and catching a fiafia (dance performance) or fa'afafine show. The following day begin the loop around Upolu, heading east and soaking up the sights and village calm. Spend your first night at Namu’a Island Beach Fale then continue on around the island, stopping two more nights at the resort or fale of your choice. Don’t miss splashing around the To Sua Ocean Trench and stopping at the stunning beaches of the south coast.
TEN DAYS
Follow the five-day itinerary, then continue north up the coast of Upolu, stopping for a night on the island of Manono. The following day take the ferry to Savai’i and spend the next four days leisurely driving around the island counter-clockwise: get covered in mud at Dwarf’s Cave, take the eerie, scenic drive to Fafa O Sauai’i, and get blown away by the Alofaaga Blowholes. If you’re keen on archaeology and adventure, search for the mysterious Pulemelei Mound.
Apia
Pop 36,735
Few people come to a Pacific paradise to hang around in a small city with not much in the way of beaches. But it’s worth taking some time to explore the (relative) sprawl of Apia: with an excellent cultural centre, three buzzy markets and an eclectic collection of local eateries and nightspots, the capital offers an immersive introduction to island life. Plentiful accommodation, facilities galore and proximity to some fascinating natural and historic attractions – and, given the island’s small size, pretty much everything else on Upolu – makes Apia a handy base for visitors with their own wheels.
1Sights & Activities
Vaiala BeachBEACH
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Vaiala)
The closest beach to Apia town, immediately east of the harbour. The currents can be strong, so take care and avoid the area marked by buoys where there’s a dangerous whirlpool.
oSamoa Cultural VillageCULTURAL CENTRE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.samoa.travel; Beach Rd; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, interactive sessions 10.30am-12.30pm Tue-Thu)F
Though this 'village' is open every weekday, it's the interactive sessions that are an absolute must. Knowledgeable and extremely affable hosts take visitors through all aspects of Samoan cultural and traditional life, with workshops on weaving, woodworking, siapo cloth making, traditional tatau, dance and music. Guests are also treated to an 'ava (kava) ceremony and lunch from the umu (hot-stone oven).
The village is tucked away behind the Samoa Tourism Authority's information fale.
Maketi FouMARKET
(Food Market; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Fugalei St; h24hr)
Abuzz with local merchants, shoppers, loiterers and men slamming it down over games of mu (Samoan checkers), this 24-hour market is a must-see shopping and social experience. Though primarily a produce market, pretty much everything is sold here. Souvenir hunters will find siapo (decorated bark cloth), woodcarvings, coconut-shell jewellery, lava-lava (wraparound sarongs) and T-shirts. A cold niu (drinking coconut) will give you strength to shop on, despite the oppressive humidity of the place.
The ambience is somewhat enlivened by the fume-ridden chaos of the adjacent bus station.
Flea MarketMARKET
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Fugalei St & Beach Rd; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat)
Down on the waterfront, this steamy labyrinth is packed with small stalls selling craftwork, clothing and souvenirs. Don’t bother to test your bargaining skills here, as haggling is not an element of Samoan commerce.
Fish MarketMARKET
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; off Beach Rd)
A scramble takes place here at the crack of dawn every Sunday to snag the freshest catches for the post-church to’ona’i (Sunday lunch). Unsurprisingly, Apia's best fish and chips are also found here.
Falemata'agaMUSEUM
(Museum of Samoa; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %26036; www.museumofsamoa.ws; cnr Ififi & Vaitele Sts; h9.30am-4pm Mon-Fri)F
The German-era school building houses an enchanting collection of artefacts and displays focusing on four themes: history, culture, Pacific and environment. Donations are appreciated.
Government HouseNOTABLE BUILDING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Beach Rd)
While Government House isn't a thrilling landmark in itself (though the giant, modern rendition of a fale roof atop it is cause for a snapshot), it's worth a visit to see the Samoa Police Brass Band – in full regalia – toot out the national anthem as it raises the flag each weekday morning between 7.30am and 8am.
Immaculate Conception CathedralCHURCH
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Beach Rd)
Looming over the harbour, this lofty cathedral is breathtakingly beautiful. Originally constructed in 1884, the building was recently rebuilt at an estimated cost of ST13 million: it’s a hefty price tag for a country that isn’t exactly rolling in it, but the devout believe its ornate timber-crafted ceilings, dazzling stained-glass windows and gaspingly huge interior (2000-person capacity; it previously held 400) make it priceless.
Vanya Taule'alo GalleryGALLERY
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %20011; Mulivai Lane, Taumeasina; h8am-4pm Mon-Sat)
This small but special gallery showcases the works of Samoan and other Pacific Island artists: prints, paintings, woodcarvings, jewellery, and other handicrafts are all top quality, and are all for sale. The gallery is attached to the equally worthy Legends Cafe. It's about a five-minute drive from the centre of Apia.
Mormon TempleCHURCH
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Vaitele St)
One of the most impressive buildings in Samoa is this massive temple taking up 1736 sq metres on the western approach to town. Completed in 2005 after a fire destroyed the previous building, the white granite edifice has an elegant art-deco sensibility and is capped by a golden angel.
Palolo Deep Marine ReserveSNORKELLING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Vaiala Beach Rd; adult/child ST4/1, hire of mask & flippers/snorkel ST5/2; h8am-6pm)
Between Vaiala Beach and Apia's harbour, this reserve is a magnificent stretch of shallow reef (best visited at high tide) that features a deep, coral-encrusted hole thronging with marine life. To reach the drop-off, swim out from the beach to the dark patch of water to the left of the marker stick. It’s around 100m from the shore, and you’ll need flippers and a snorkel to get you out there without damaging the coral (or your feet).
A Touch of SamoaSPA
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %843 0034; Falealili St (Cross Island Rd), Tanugamanono; 60min massage ST50; h9am-7pm Mon-Sat, 11am-7pm Sun)
Take a load off at this popular spa, where they use massage techniques based on both Samoan and European traditions. Waxing, pedicures, manicures, eyebrow and eyelash tinting and more also available.
Misiluki Day SpaSPA
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %20759; www.misilukispa.com; Falealili St; massage per 30min from ST50; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm Sat, 2pm-7pm Sun)
For massage, as well as mani-pedis, waxing, facials and body treatment, this serene yet simple spa gets top marks from locals.
TTours
Polynesian XplorerTOURS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %26940; www.samoaaccommodation.co; Falealili St)
Full-service boutique travel agency that runs recommended tours in Upolu (half-day ST120, full-day from ST220) and day tours to Manono (ST230) and Savai’i (ST397). Groups are small and you can design your own custom itinerary including lodging and transfers. Also has an airport office.
Samoa Scenic ToursTOURS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %26981; www.samoascenictours.com)
Runs a huge variety of tours around Upolu, Savai'i and to Manono: see the website for full listing and prices. It can also tailor tours for groups and special interests.
2City Walk
Historical Apia
Start Sheraton Samoa Aggie Grey's Hotel & Bungalows
End Independence Memorial
Length 3.5km; 1½ hours
Start from 1Sheraton Samoa Aggie Grey's Hotel & Bungalows, Samoa’s most famous address. Founded in 1933, it became a popular haunt of American servicemen during WWII. The late Aggie Grey is said to have been the inspiration for the character of Bloody Mary in James Michener’s novel Tales of the South Pacific.
Cross the road and walk west along the sea wall to the 2John Williams monument. It celebrates an early missionary who was killed and eaten in 1839 while evangelising in Vanuatu. His bones were recovered and buried under the church across the road. A little further along you’ll pass the genteel wooden colonial-style building that once housed the 3Supreme Court.
As you continue along Beach Rd, gaze up at the grand and glorious 4Immaculate Conception Cathedral on your left and then the fale-style 5Samoa Tourism Authority office on your right; if you time your visit right, stop at the 6Samoa Cultural Village behind the fale for an immersive and entertaining experience. Further along you'll see the 7clock tower (now in the middle of a busy roundabout), constructed in memory of those who fought and were killed in WWI. Across the road are the elegant arches of the Spanish Mission–style 8Chan Mow’s building.
From the clock tower, take the smaller road heading behind the library to check out the 9Fish Market and then the aFlea Market.
Amble north through the pretty park beside the sea wall that buttresses the eastern shore of the Mulinu’u Peninsula until you reach the large bowler hat that is Samoa’s parliament house, the bFale Fono. In case you had any doubts about Samoa’s Christian leanings, cross the road to read the cIndependence Memorial. It was built to celebrate the independence of Western Samoa on 1 January 1962 and bears the inscription ‘Samoa is founded on God’, with lengthy thanks paid to each member of the Holy Trinity.
4Sleeping
Most places in Apia include breakfast in their rates; many also offer airport transfers.
Just out of town, on Taumeasina Island, the upmarket Taumeasina Resort was nearing completion at research time: check www.taumeasinasamoa.com for details.
Aniva’s PlaceGUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %20501; www.anivasaccommodationsamoa.com; off Falealili St (Cross Island Rd), Moto’otua; s/d ST120/140, without bathroom ST100/120; paWs)
Run by the exceptionally charming Aniva, this two-storey suburban dwelling offers a homey, welcoming atmosphere with clean, comfortable rooms, an honesty bar, a library and a small pool. Excellent home-cooked meals are available on request for a small fee.
Annabelle InnINN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %20505; inbound@samoascenic.com; Beach Rd; r with/without bathroom from ST60/50; W)
Set in a quaint, early-20th-century home, this sweet place offers comfortable, homey rooms and a sunny, sociable verandah restaurant that looks over to the marina. It's a quick stroll to the Palolo Deep Marine Reserve; those interested in a different kind of wildlife will rejoice in Annabelle's proximity to Apia's best bars and clubs. Non-night owls, be warned: it can get noisy.
Taumesina HideawayBUNGALOW$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %758 9255, 774 7905; taumesina.hideaway@gmail.com; Taumesina Reserve, Moata'a; bungalows from ST95; pW)
This quiet place, crouched by a lovely lagoon, offers the only beach fales in Apia. All are enclosed; three have shared bathrooms, while the rest come with ensuites and small fridges. Though the ocean views were somewhat spoiled by a nearby construction project at time of research, this is a good – if basic - getaway for those seeking proximity to Apia without the city buzz.
Su AccommodationAPARTMENT$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %27001; www.su-accommodation.com; Fugalei St; r/ste ST190/290; paW)
This friendly, family-run spot is an excellent choice for self-caterers and families. While there are clean motel-like rooms on-site, the spacious, fully appointed suites are the best option, with serviceable kitchens ideal for cooking up your finds from Maketi Fou (directly across the road) or either of the two large supermarkets bookending the property.
The family also offers private units (ST160) in the less urban surrounds of Vaitele, about 7km out of Apia.
Lynn's Getaway HotelB&B$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %20272; www.lynnsgetaway.com; Salenesa Rd, Moto’otua; s/d ST150/170, without bathroom ST130/150; paWs)
This eccentric, social little spot attracts return visitors and long-term guests by the boatload. The two comfy common rooms, shared kitchen, poolside barbecue area and library lend Lynn's a true home-away-from-home feel, as do the hearty, host-prepared dinners (ST20, available on request). Discounted rental car rates are available for guests; if driving isn't your thing, island tours and hiking expeditions can be booked here.
Insel Fehmarn HotelHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %23301; www.inselfehmarnsamoa.com; Falealili St (Cross Island Rd), Moto’otua; d from ST280; paWs)
Blocky and nondescript from the outside, this large hotel is surprisingly welcoming and well equipped. All rooms have plenty of space (families should request a Garden Room on the ground floor) and excellent kitchens; ours had a full gas stove. Genuinely friendly staff are quick to respond to requests. There's a large pool area and a fantastic restaurant-bar; don't miss the Friday night barbecues.
Samoan Outrigger HotelHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %20042; www.samoanoutriggerhotel.com; Falealili St (Cross Island Rd), Moto’otua; bungalows per person from ST75, s/d/f from ST140/170/255; paWs)
Set in a high-ceilinged, century-old timber building, this charming place is a bit out of town, but worth the short drive. Accommodation ranges from fale-style garden huts with mattresses on the floor to bright rooms with a choice of shared bathroom or ensuites. Bonuses include a good pool, afternoon cultural performances and car-rental discounts for those staying four or more days.
Pasefika InnHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %20971; www.pasefikainn.ws; Matautu St; dm ST50, s/d from ST190/220; paWs)
Carved beams, siapo-inspired bed runners and bunches of polished coconuts lining the stairway add Samoan touches to this central, airy place that’s bettered by its spacious communal lounge, guest kitchen and pool. The good-looking rooms all have attached bathrooms. While the pricier rooms with terraces are bigger, they also pick up more noise from the busy road out front.
Apia Central HotelHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %20782; www.apiacentralhotel.com; Savalalo Rd; s/d from ST140/170; paW)
As the name suggests, this is one for those who want to be in the thick of it; everything from Maketi Fou, supermarkets, restaurants and nightlife are but a short walk away. The hotel doesn't rest on its good-location laurels, however, with big, impeccably clean rooms, bend-over-backwards staff and a lovely outdoor courtyard for escaping the humid din of Apia.
oSamoa Tradition ResortRESORT$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %25699; www.traditionresort.com; Papaseea Rd, Ululoloa Heights; r/apt/ste/villa ST320/410/450/490; paWs)
Gorgeous grounds, divine digs and five-star service make this resort an absolute stand-out. Accommodation ranges from spanking new hotel rooms all the way up to massive luxury villas. The restaurant gets rave reviews; the Thursday night fiafias are superbly theatrical and shouldn't be missed. It's not cheap, but you'd be hard-pressed to find a more 'resorty' resort in Apia.
Sheraton Samoa Aggie Grey's Hotel & BungalowsHISTORIC HOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22880; www.aggiegreys.com; Beach Rd; s/d/ste from US$138/160/350; ais)
If you ever wanted to step into a 1940s-era tale of the South Seas, this iconic hotel gives you the chance. Though completely refurbished in 2016, Aggie Grey's has retained its breezy, near-colonial atmosphere, while giving its spacious rooms a much-needed overhaul. In addition to the old-school ambience, the hotel boasts three on-site eateries, a bar, a spa, a gym and three pools, one with a swim-up bar.
Tanoa TusitalaHOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %21122; www.tanoatusitala.com; Mulinu’u Rd; r/ste from ST470/640; paWs)
One of the swankiest and most professionally run places in town, this hotel – instantly recognisable by its huge, traditional-roofed lobby – is nestled in lush gardens across from the sea wall. Rooms are big and elegant. Facilities include a pool with plenty of lounge chairs (there's also a kids' pool and playground, a rarity in Samoa), tennis court and gym, plus an excellent bar-restaurant.
Amanaki Hotel & RestaurantHOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %27889; www.amanakihotel.com; Mulinu’u Rd; d ST285-360; aWs)
This popular, two-storey hotel enjoys an excellent location – and equally excellent ocean breezes – across from the sea wall. The huge, comfortable rooms face a nicely landscaped pool. Guests and locals flock to the on-site restaurant for its breezy atmosphere and high-quality, reasonably priced seafood meals (supplied by the hotel's own fishing boats); the bar gets buzzy after dark too.
5Eating
Apia is the one of the few places in Samoa where you won’t be held hostage to the culinary abilities (or lack thereof) of your accommodation provider. There’s a decent selection of eateries scattered around town, with most of the upmarket ones lining the waterfront.
For self-caterers, Apia's best-stocked supermarkets are Frankies ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Fugalei St; h6am-9pm) and Farmer Joe ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.farmerjoe.ws; Fugalei St; h6am-9pm); both are open seven days a week.
KrushVEGAN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %27874; Falealili St (Cross Island Rd), Tanugamanono; mains ST10-15; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm Sat; v)
Apia's only vegan restaurant has a small menu, but it's a tasty one that's sure to make visiting herbivores happy. Inventive salads and risottos are served by the scoop; other items include 'beefless burgers' and meat-free takes on Samoan cuisine. It also whizzes up a massive range of fresh juices and smoothies.
Burger Bill'sFAST FOOD$
(BB's; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %26388; Fugalei St; meals from ST9; h9am-10pm Mon-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat, 10am-10pm Sun)
This much-beloved, locally owned fast-food chain serves up exceptional fish and chips that – despite hefty portion sizes – are ridiculously moreish. As per the name, it also creates great burgers; fried chicken is another speciality.
Fish MarketSEAFOOD$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; off Beach Rd; fish & chips ST8; h7am-3pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat & Sun)
Battle local crowds for the best and freshest fish and chips in town in an endearingly gritty, local-style setting.
Coffee BeanCAFE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.thebeansamoa.com; Falealili St (Cross Island Rd); mains ST10-25; h8am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat, to noon Sun; W)
Along with excellent, strong coffees, the Bean serves big breakfasts like eggs Benedict (ST25) as well as lighter choices; at lunch choose from sandwiches, savoury pies and casseroles. It also operates Bean Central ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.thebeansamoa.com; Vaea St; mains ST10-25; h7am-3.30pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat), about 1km west; it's just as good.
oPalusamiFUSION$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %771 3177; www.palusami.biz; Beach Rd; mains ST13-50; h5.30pm-midnight Tue-Sat)S
This wonderful place uses organic, locally sourced produce to create incredible meals that combine Samoan flavours with international favourites (coconut beef stroganoff, anyone?). Other inventive fare includes eggs Benedict with spicy taro cakes, grilled pork on a palusami gratin and a to-die-for Koko Samoa chocolate tart. Niu (coconut) cocktails – including a very, very good mojito – served in the shell are a must.
EdgeINTERNATIONAL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %775 5174; Apia Marina; mains ST10-30; h8am-late Mon-Sat)
An excellent addition to Apia's up-and-coming dining-entertainment precinct at the marina, this laid-back spot is a top choice for a lazy lunch or dinner. A diverse menu offers Samoan classics, international favourites and a long list of sinful all-day breakfast options; it also does excellent espressos. Stick around for cocktails (happy hour 4pm to 7pm) and DJ sets (7pm to midnight Thursday to Saturday).
Sips Tapas & Wine BarTAPAS$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %770 1888; Apia Marina; tapas/mains from ST18/25; h11am-10pm Tue-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat, 5.30-10.30pm Sun)
What this hip and happening spot lacks by way of an extensive menu (the pickin's are tasty, but slim), it more than makes up for with good vibes and top views. An extensive wine list makes this an excellent spot for sunset drinks; if you're in town on a Sunday afternoon, drop in for its lively pizza-and-barbecue parties.
Giordano’sITALIAN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %25985; off Falealili St (Cross Island Rd), Moto’otua; small pizzas ST20-26; h3-11pm Tue-Sat, 5-10pm Sun)
Sit in the tropical back courtyard and tuck into exceptional pizzas featuring such exotic (for Samoa) toppings as olives, blue cheese, parmesan, pepperoni and anchovies. It was the first pizza place to open in Samoa and many think it’s still the friendliest and the best. Gluttons take note: the XL pizzas are really XL!
Tifaimoana Indian RestaurantINDIAN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %29604; Fugalei St; dishes from ST15; h7am-9am, 11am-3pm & 5-10pm Mon-Sat; v)
The chef here (from the Punjab region of India) orders ingredients from his homeland and you can taste it. The thali set meals (many vegetarian; prices from ST25) are Samoan-sized and include a lassi; if you’re ordering à la carte, the chicken korma is memorable.
Italiano Pizza BarITALIAN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %24330; Beach Rd; small pizzas ST16-25; h9am-10pm Mon-Fri, to midnight Sat, 4-10pm Sun)
Locals and travellers converge on this humble waterfront pizzeria to talk, drink jugs of lurid alcoholic mixtures and add their scrawl to the graffiti on the walls. On top of all that, the pizzas are great.
oBistro TatauFUSION$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22727; www.bistrotatau.ws; Beach Rd; mains ST40-70; hnoon-2pm Mon-Fri, from 6.30pm Mon-Sat; av)
This upmarket spot ranks as one of Samoa's best and most innovative restaurants, fusing local favourites such as palusami into soufflé and ravioli. Polished floorboards, white tablecloths, vibrant local art, tropical floral arrangements and efficient barefoot waiters in lava-lava complete the experience.
PaddlesITALIAN$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %21819; Beach Rd; mains ST25-60; h5-11pm Mon-Sat)
A delightful Italian-Samoan family serves superb home cooking and ready conviviality at this attractive and rightfully popular terrace restaurant across from the seafront. It has that perfect balance of laid-back and chic. Try the smoked fish lasagne or the divine mushroom risotto.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Apia’s waterfront is well supplied with drinking options, though few places open their doors on a Sunday. Some of the dodgier pool halls aren’t pleasant places to be at closing time.
Ace of ClubsCLUB
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %20430; off Beach Rd; hclub 5pm-midnight, bar from 10.30am Mon-Sat)
Hitch your fancy threads on for Apia's newest and classiest nightclub. Laser-lit and loud, it attracts an enthusiastic crowd with pumping dance hits, good drinks menu and brilliant security staff that ensures everyone – especially women – have a great, safe night. There's a dress code, and cover charges apply most nights (ST5 to ST25). There's a more low-key bar and bistro on the ground floor.
Y-NotBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Beach Rd; cover charge ST10; h4-10pm Mon & Tue, to midnight Wed-Sat)
Ask anyone of any age where to go for a drink in Apia and this is always the enthusiastic answer. It’s no wonder. Looking over the Apia Harbour with deck seating, a pool table, live or DJ music on Friday and Saturday nights and a reliable mix of expats, locals and visitors, Y-Not is bucketloads of fun.
Club XCLUB
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Beach Rd; admission ST15-20; h7pm-midnight Wed-Sat)
This waterside club is a local institution for all the right reasons: blaring pop hits, cheap drinks, good bartenders and a sociable – if young – crowd. The small dancefloor gets packed and sweaty most nights.
Sheesha's Cocktail BarCOCKTAIL BAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %775 1500; Apia Marina; h5-10.30pm Tue-Thu, to 12.30am Fri & Sat)
One of the classiest bars in Apia – all chandeliers and fancy wallpaper – Sheesha's has a fantastic cocktail menu that attracts a slightly older (25 and up) clientele. It's a tiny place, but its size just adds to the intimate ambience (though there's more room outside overlooking the water).
Apia Yacht ClubBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %28584; Mulinu’u Rd; h5-10pm Tue-Sun)
Its private-club status makes it one of the few sure-fire places for a drink on a Sunday evening. Its location on the sea wall – and resultant breezes – merely reinforces the relaxing effects of a cold Vailima beer. Meals are also available.
Cocktails on the RocksBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Beach Rd; h3-10pm Mon-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat)
Also known as ‘Cocks on the Rocks’ and 'The Hole in the Wall', this small bar is much loved by tourists, expats and locals for its mellow vibe, sea breezes, 5L 'towers' of Vailima beer and live music most nights (bar Mondays).
RSA ClubBAR
(Returned Services Association; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %20171; Beach Rd; h9am-10pm Mon-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat)
This down'n'dirty – but characterful – place is a top spot for meeting locals and checking out some live music (Thursday to Saturday). If you're after posh cocktails and a well-heeled crowd, best go elsewhere: you don’t want to be here if a fight breaks out (avoid the pool tables at closing time).
THERE’S SOMETHING ABOUT BLOODY MARY
Agnes Swann was the daughter of a Lincolnshire chemist who had migrated to Samoa in 1889, and a Samoan girl from Toamua village. In 1917 she married and had four children; after her first husband died, she married Charlie Grey, a compulsive gambler who lost everything they had. Aggie had to look for some means of supporting the family.
In 1942 said means arrived in the form of American soldiers in Apia carrying ‘unimaginable wealth’. Aggie borrowed US$180, bought the site of a former hotel and began selling hamburgers and coffee to the servicemen. Response was overwhelming and, although supplies were difficult to come by during WWII, Aggie built up an institution that became famous Pacific-wide as a social gathering place for war-weary soldiers. She even succeeded in getting through the New Zealand–imposed prohibition of alcoholic beverages.
When James Michener published his enormously successful Tales of the South Pacific, Aggie was so well-known that it was widely assumed she was the prototype for the character of Michener’s Tonkinese madam, Bloody Mary. Michener has said that he did visit Aggie’s place whenever he could from Pago Pago, where he was frequently stationed, though he denied that anything but the good bits of Bloody Mary were inspired by Aggie Grey.
Over the next few decades, the snack bar expanded into a hotel where numerous celebrities stayed while filming or travelling in the area. If you’d like to read more about Aggie Grey, who died in June 1988 at the age of 91, track down Aggie Grey of Samoa, by Nelson Eustis.
3Entertainment
Many hotels and resorts in Apia host weekly fiafia nights, celebrations of Samoan culture through vibrant song, dance and storytelling performances. Ask at your accommodation, or pop into the Samoa Tourism Authority's information fale on Beach Rd for a full list of weekly shows.
Divas of SamoaCABARET
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Maliu Mar Bar & Restaurant, Fugalei St; adult/child ST10/5; hfrom 9pm Wed)
The only fa'afafine show in Samoa is outrageous fun, full of glitter, glamour and cheesy music. It's a drag show, but maybe not as you know it: children are enthusiastically welcomed at the performances.
Siva AfiDANCE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %26029; Beach Rd; dinner & show ST75)
Named after the Samoan fire dance that is its hallmark, this place has a commitment to training young performers and keeping the traditional arts alive. Check out its dramatic fire- and knife-dancing shows every Tuesday night (Samoan-style dinner 7.30pm, show starts at 8.30pm). Bookings are recommended.
Apollo CinemasCINEMA
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %28127; Convent St; adult/child ST15/10; hscreenings from 9.30am Mon-Sat)
Big Hollywood blockbusters often hit the screens here before they reach Australia or NZ and for a fraction of the price. Its two cinemas are blissfully air-conditioned, and there's a new cafe attached if popcorn isn't doing it for you.
GET ACTIVE ON UPOLU
DIVING
Diving is undeveloped in Samoa. On Upolu this means that experienced divers can partake in exploration trips with AquaSamoa Watersports and potentially get sites named after them! Top dives include the Manono Wall (just off of Manono island) and Magic Mushrooms, where you’ll find the namesake unique mushroom-shaped coral formations that are frequented by schools of sharks.
AquaSamoa WatersportsDIVING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %45662; www.aquasamoa.com; Apia Marina Precinct)
Upolu’s only dive centre offers dives for beginner and skilled divers (two-tank dive ST340), plus PADI courses (open-water course ST1250), waterskiing, wakeboarding, and snorkelling tours (ST80); it's also got an on-site tattooist on hand!
HIKING
Shorter tracks that don’t require a guide include the short but steep walk to Robert Louis Stevenson’s grave near the summit of Mt Vaea and the Mt Matavanu crater walk. Even on short walks, the sun and hot, humid conditions can take their toll. Good walking shoes are essential. For longer hikes, a guide is imperative.
Based in Apia, Eti at SamoaOnFoot offers expert guided hikes to Lake Lanoto’o, Uafato Conservation Area and O Le Pupu-Pu’e National Park. On Savai’i, Mt Silisili offers a challenging multiday trek.
SURFING
Upolu has great surf but most of it is reef-breaking, far offshore and within limits of a village’s water rights, so you’ll need permission. It’s best to go with an operator. Salani Surf Resort, Samoa Surf Secrets at Vaiula Fales, Offshore Adventures, Sa'moana Resort and Manoa Tours ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %777 0007; www.manoatours.com; Coconuts Beach Club resort) all offer surf packages; some offer shuttle services to the breaks for nonguests.
OTHER ACTIVITIES
For information on fishing charters and tournaments, visit the Samoa International Game Fishing Association website (www.sigfa.ws).
Outdoor SamoaADVENTURE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %45991; www.outdoorsamoa.com; Airport Lodge, Mulifanua)
Based near Faleolo Airport and Mulifanua Wharf, this outfit offers a huge range of biking and kayaking adventures ranging from day trips to multi-day/week expeditions. It also hires kayaks (ST75 per day) and bikes (ST45/65 half-/full day) for solo jaunts.
Samoa AdventureCRUISES
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %777 0272; www.samoa-adventure.com; Sheraton Aggie Grey’s Lagoon Resort, Mulifanua)
This lovely 35ft catamaran makes sunset tours (from ST110), and a slew of other excursions including cruises to Savai'i (10 hours, from ST320) and Manono (from ST250 per person including fishing, food and drinks) and personalised fishing trips.
Le Penina Golf CourseGOLF
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %45611; www.sheratonsamoaaggiegreysresort.com/golf; Main West Coast Rd; 9/18 holes ST30/50, club hire ST15; h8am-5pm Mon-Sat, noon-5pm Sun)
This par-72 course winds around the Sheraton Aggie Grey's Lagoon Resort.
Oceanic Sportfishing AdventuresFISHING
(%775 9606; www.grandermarlin.com)
Go with Captain Chris to catch the big ones – from tuna to marlin – on the new, 37ft Merritt Leilani. Best from April to October.
7Shopping
Memorable souvenirs can be bought at various shops around Apia, including siapo, ie toga (fine mats) and finely made, multi-legged ‘ava (kava) bowls. Such crafts, plus jewellery and clothes, are available from Maketi Fou and the Flea Market.
Plantation HouseHANDICRAFTS, GIFTS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22839; Lotopa Rd, Alafua; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat)
Stop in for high-quality, locally made art, craft and gifts, including hand-blocked fabric, lava-lava, prints, tailored shirts, bedding and jewellery.
MailelaniBEAUTY
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22111; www.mailelani-samoa.com; Mailelani Rd (just off Cross Island Rd), Papauta; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat)
The handmade soaps, creams and goodies here are made with organic coconut oil; everything smells and feels divine. Stop by and you’ll probably get a tour showing how the products are made.
MenaCLOTHING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %31293; www.menashop.com; MacDonald Bldg, Fugalei St; h8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat)
High Samoan fashion in the form of well-cut dresses in traditional fabrics or painted with floral patterns. It’s a bit pricey but there’s something for all shapes and sizes.
Pacific JewellHANDICRAFTS, GIFTS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %32888; Levili Blvd, Levili; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat)
This little nook has an on-site gallery and beautiful outdoor cafe. Locally made jewellery, carvings, art and more are all of exceptional quality.
Janet’sHANDICRAFTS, GIFTS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %23371; www.janetssamoa.com; 2nd fl, Lotemau Mall, Vaea St; h9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-1.30pm Sat)
Janet's stocks a large range of woodcarvings, siapo and gifts.
8Information
ANZ BankBANK
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Beach Rd; h9am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 8am-1pm Sat)
The ANZ also has ATMs on Salenesa Rd (just off Cross Island Rd) and on Saleufi St opposite Maketi Fou.
Bank South PacificBANK
(BSP; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %66100; Beach Rd; h9am-4pm Mon-Wed, to 4.30pm Thu & Fri, 8.30am-12.30pm Sat)
Has an ATM out the front that accepts overseas cards.
Main Post OfficePOST
( GOOGLE MAP ; %27640; www.samoapost.ws; Beach Rd; h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 8am-noon Sat)
For poste restante, go to the separate office next to the main post office. Have mail addressed to you care of: Poste Restante, Chief Post Office, Apia, Samoa.
Samoa Tourism AuthorityTOURIST INFORMATION
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %63500; www.samoa.travel; Beach Rd; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 8am-noon Sat)
For information, assistance, bus schedules and maps. You'll find them in a prominently positioned fale across from the Catholic cathedral on the main drag.
8Getting Around
As visitors will soon discover (after hearing 'Taxi?' for the millionth time), Apia has an extraordinary number of cabs prowling its streets. Meters are optional, but fares are low; you shouldn’t be charged more than ST5 for a ride within town. Be sure to agree upon a price before you hop in.
Buses are equally plentiful (though not so much on Sundays) and cheap; fares within town run at about ST1.
PIMP MY RIDE
Samoa is a quiet and polite place, but a wallflower it ain’t: from its blazingly blue waters to its ludicrously large and looming village churches, there’s much about this country that screams 'Look at me!' And there’s nothing that seizes the eye with more insistence than Samoa’s wonderfully over-the-top buses (pasi).
More than just a means of transportation, pasi are a form of self-expression by their independent owners. While a few are content to merely splash their bus sides in solid blocks of lurid colours, the majority have gone down the airbrush route, creating rolling kitschmobiles as glorious as they are garish. There are buses plastered with knock-off odes to Bon Jovi and Guns-n-Roses, starburst-heavy declarations of support for Manu Samoa (the national rugby union team), a startling number of Jesus-and-Mary glamour portraits hovering above the muffler, and way too many featuring depictions of what appears to be a psychotic, perhaps vampiric, Mickey Mouse.
The fun continues inside, with carpeted ceilings, flags, family photos, plastic garlands, religious trinkets (often neon) and a few thousand dangling air fresheners prettily obscuring parts of the windscreen. Extremely loud music is a must on buses, and visitors will soon develop either a taste for Samoan pop or earplugs. Such distractions cleverly divert passengers’ attentions from the fact that there is no air-conditioning and seats are made of bum-busting hardwood. If the bus is crowded, a Samoan will probably sit on your lap. Roll with it!
Around Apia
1Sights & Activities
oRobert Louis Stevenson Museum & Mt Vaea National ReserveMUSEUM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %20798; www.rlsmuseum.org; Cross Island Rd, Vailima; adult/child ST20/5; h9am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat)
The Scottish author's former residence is an enchanting estate, with a centrepiece lawn and perfectly manicured gardens. Stevenson's mansion, substantially destroyed in the cyclones in the early 1990s, was lovingly rebuilt and opened as a museum in 1994 on the centenary of Stevenson’s death. Access is by a half-hour tour that leads through rooms filled with antiques and sepia family photographs.
Stevenson is buried in the adjacent Mt Vaea National Reserve ( GOOGLE MAP ; Cross Island Rd, Vailima; h6am-6pm Mon-Sat). Follow the signs for the path – known as the 'Road of Loving Hearts' – to the tomb. At the first unmarked fork, turn left. The path soon forks again: the right-hand trail (30 minutes) is steeper but shorter; the left-hand trail (50 minutes) is gentler but still involves a final slippery section. At the top you’ll be greeted by wonderful views of Apia, Stevenson's stately Victorian tomb, and clouds of vicious mosquitoes. Cool off after after your hike with a dip in the natural swimming hole that was once the author's pool; it's right near the museum carpark.
A taxi from Apia to the museum costs ST10 one way, or take the Vaoala bus (ST2) from Maketi Fou.
oPapase’ea Sliding RocksWATERFALL
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; off Maugafolau Rd; adult/child ST5/2; h8.30am-5.30pm Mon-Sat, 11am-6pm Sun)
Kids and adults have a brilliant time skimming down these natural slides – actually small waterfalls – into blessedly cool waterholes; you'll hear happy hoots even before you make your way down the long, precarious stairway to the pools. The longest slide is 5m long; there are a couple of smaller ones at the bottom of the stairs. During the dry season, check that the water is deep enough for sliding; if not, it's still a top spot for a dip.
The site is 6km from central Apia, well-signposted from the road past the Mormon Temple. Take the Se’ese’e bus (ST2.80) from Maketi Fou and ask to be dropped at the turn-off for Papase’ea. A return taxi trip is about ST25.
Around Apia
6Drinking & Nightlife
Papapapai-tai FallsWATERFALL
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Cross Island Rd)
About 14km south of Apia is the lookout for Papapapai-tai Falls, a 100m waterfall that plunges into a forested gorge; they're one of the longest falls in Samoa. Roughly 100m before the lookout, an unmarked track leads to the Tiavi waterhole, a delightful place to cool off on a hot day.
Lake Lanoto’o National ParkLAKE
The pea-green crater of Lake Lanoto’o is about as removed from human habitation as you can get on Upolu. Its remote central-highlands location and alternating warm and cold currents lend it an eerie nature. Keep your eyes peeled for wild goldfish.
The steep trail leading to the lake from the car park (3km along a very rough side road) is overgrown and forks repeatedly. Many hikers (including locals) have gotten lost; a guide is a must. A dependable outfit is SamoaOnFoot (%759 4199, 31252; www.bestsamoatours.com).
Bahá’í House of WorshipRELIGIOUS SITE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %20385; www.bahaisamoa.ws; Cross Island Rd, Tiapapata; h6am-6pm)F
The architecturally interesting Bahá’í House of Worship is one of only eight such structures in the world; all are different except for being domed – this one is 28m high – and having nine sides and entrances, reflecting the faith’s tenet of a basic unity of religions and peoples.
A taxi from Apia costs around ST30, or catch the Siumu bus (ST6) from Maketi Fou. Contact the temple if you wish to attend a Sunday session (10am); it may be able to offer you a free lift.
HERE HE LIES WHERE HE LONGED TO BE
In December 1889 the already-famous Scottish author and poet Robert Louis Stevenson and his wife Fanny Osborne arrived in Apia. Stevenson had left Europe in search of relief from worsening tuberculosis and the general sickliness that had plagued him all his life. He was enchanted by Samoa, and in 1890 he paid £200 for 126 hectares of land in the hills above Apia; it was here he constructed Vailima, the grandest home ever seen on the island. They imported furniture from Scotland and dressed their Samoan employees in lava-lava patterned with the Stuart tartan.
In the 1890s, during the period of strife in Samoa between Britain, the USA and Germany, Stevenson became an activist for Samoan rights, maintaining that the people should be left to determine their own destiny in accordance with their customs. He came to be loved by the Samoans for his friendliness and his ability to entertain with stories; they affectionately referred to him as Tusitala (Teller of Tales).
On 3 December 1894 Stevenson died of a stroke at Vailima. When the Samoan chief Tu’imaleali’ifano spoke of Stevenson’s death, he echoed the sentiments of many Samoans, saying ‘Our beloved Tusitala. The stones and the earth weep.’ Two months before his death, in gratitude for his kindness, a delegation of Samoan chiefs had arranged for a hand-dug road to be made between Apia and Vailima, which they called O Le Ala O Le Alofa, the Road of the Loving Heart.
Stevenson had stipulated that he wished to be buried at the top of Mt Vaea, part of the Vailima estate. After a Christian burial service, the coffin was laid on a base of coral and volcanic pebbles and the grave lined with black stones, a practice normally reserved for Samoan royalty.
4Sleeping
oDave Parker's Eco LodgeLODGE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %842 8899; www.daveparkerecolodge.ws; Tapatapao Rd, Aleisa East; s/d bungalows ST45/65, lodges ST78/98, ste ST125/155; pWs)
Surrounded by rainforest and boasting jaw-dropping views of the coast, this delightful hilltop spot is an excellent escape from the heat of the big smoke. The main lodge houses eight tidy rooms and a suite; those wishing to get even further away from it all should opt for one of four bungalows set beside the very swimmable river.
Birdwatchers and hikers will find their bliss here; if the isolation gets too much, Dave offers free city transfers Monday to Saturday. There's also an excellent restaurant and bar on-site.
Eastern Upolu
The pointy end of Upolu is blessed with some of Samoa’s best beaches, offering the winning combination of white sand, clear waters and excellent snorkelling. Heading east from Apia there’s a succession of beautiful, sleepy villages along the surf-battered shoreline. The road turns sharply inland not far past Piula Cave Pool and skirts rainforest and plantations before hitting the glorious glowing sands of the Aleipata coast.
1Sights & Activities
Aleipata Beaches & ReefsBEACH
At the southeastern end of Upolu, Aleipata district has a reef system that’s making a good comeback after being pummelled by the 2009 tsunami. It already has surprisingly good snorkelling, and the beaches here are among the most spellbindingly beautiful in the world. Check out the undersea magic by walking in off the spectacular white beach at Lalomanu. If you’re lucky you might spot a turtle, but beware of strong currents.
The bus from Apia to Lalomanu (ST7.70) takes around two hours. If you're driving, don't be surprised if you get hit up for a fee for simply parking your car at a beach. Villages earn income from this, but some 'toll collectors' do push it a bit (one man tried to charge us ST50 for the pleasure); feel free to negotiate or move along elsewhere.
oTo Sua Ocean TrenchLANDMARK
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Main South Coast Rd; adult/child ST20/10; h8.30am-6pm)
This outrageously photogenic spot is a Samoan icon; skip it to your everlasting regret. Though the first thing you'll see upon entering the grounds is To Le Sua (a smaller, drier depression), it's To Sua that is the star of the show: more akin to a giant sinkhole than a trench, its sheer, green-draped rock walls plummet 20-odd metres to the almost hallucinatory-blue waters of the magnificent pool below. Swimming access is via a precipitous but sturdy wooden ladder; believe us, it's worth the clamber.
When you’ve had your fill of this enchanted waterhole, take the short track to the wave-battered cliffs. The well-groomed garden is a great spot for a picnic.
Gorgeous though it is here, visitors still need to exercise caution: swimming through the underwater passage that feeds the waterhole from the sea is a big no-no, and if you're with kids, beware the child-sized gaps between the ground and the fence that circles the top of the trench.
Piula Cave PoolLANDMARK
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Main East Coast Rd; adult/child ST5/3; h8am-4pm Mon-Sat)
Secreted beneath the campus of Piula Methodist Theological College, Piula Cave Pool consists of two blue-green, fish-filled freshwater grottoes, only metres from the sea. The brave can swim between them via a creepy 3m underwater passage that's difficult to find in the darkness. The pools are concreted in so it’s not a completely au naturel experience but it is refreshing and the college grounds are beautiful.
From Apia, take the Falefa or Lalomanu bus (ST4).
Lalomanu CraterNATURE RESERVE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Lalomanu)
A short but steep walk (10 to 15 minutes) leads to this extinct crater, blanketed in jungle overgrowth. Home to a huge colony of flying foxes, and with magnificent ocean and island views, it's worth the trek. If you go with a guide (about ST10; ask at your lodgings), they'll usually throw in a tour of the nearby taro plantation.
Uafato Conservation AreaFOREST
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
The 14 sq km of wild and rugged terrain that comprise the Uafato Conservation Area boast untouched rainforest that marches down from Upolu’s northeastern hills to dip its toes in the ocean. Flora lovers can track down a rare stand of ifilele (the tree used for ‘ava bowls), while fauna fans can observe numerous bird and bat species going about their aerial business. Uafato village is known for its traditional carvers, who are usually willing to demonstrate their art to visitors.
Uafato can be reached via a rough road that winds around Fagaloa Bay from the turn-off at Falefa Falls. This route offers beautiful views, but don’t go past Saletele without a high-clearance vehicle. Another option is the road (4WD only; 10km) signposted off Le Mafa Pass Rd to the village of Ta’elefaga.
Contact SamoaOnFoot for tours and transport.
Sopo’aga FallsVIEWPOINT
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Le Mafa Pass Rd; adult/child ST5/free; h8am-4pm)
The 54m-high Sopo’aga Falls empty themselves into an enormous gorge close to where the Main South Coast Rd meets Le Mafa Pass Rd. The well-signposted lookout is quite a distance from the falls, but the owners make an effort to give value for the entrance fee by touring visitors around their well-labelled kitchen garden. Traditional artefacts are also displayed, including drums and an umukuka (cooking house).
4Sleeping & Eating
Around Falefa
Le Uaina Beach ResortRESORT$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %40270; www.leuaina.com; Main East Coast Rd, Faleapuna; villas ST155-290; paWs)
Located on a sweet stretch of coast just before the turn off leading to Aleipata (it's right next door to the Piula Cave Pool), friendly Le Uaina makes for an excellent base for exploring Upolu. Villas are clean with great beds; the best are on the beachfront. Steps lead from the white sand into calm, blue waters that are great for snorkelling or kayaking.
The restaurant dishes up big portions of Western standards (the burgers are excellent) and a few Samoan favourites; dining is indoors or outside on a big deck that surrounds a magnificent old tree.
Namu’a & Lalomanu
Lalomanu Beach stretches long and white in front of a lagoon so blue it looks radioactive. Beach fale on this strip are all right next to each other, making this the most ‘built up’ (take this term lightly) strip outside of Apia. The accommodation is all simple and local style; while it’s not tops for privacy, it feels more social and fun than touristy or spoiled. There are a number of very basic places here, so you can easily shop around.
oNamu’a Island Beach FaleBUNGALOW$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %751 0231; Namu’a Island; bungalows incl 2 meals & return boat transfers per person ST120)
Namu’a is only a short boat ride from Mutiatele, but once you’re on this tiny private island, Upolu seems light years away (though it’s clearly visible across the strait). Fale are open, basic and right on the beach – there’s no electricity so everything is lit by oil lamps at night. Meals are mostly local style: simple yet delicious.
It's a perfect place for lounging and languid swims; the more active can do a circumnavigation of the shoreline (low tide only), clamber up the steep central peak and snorkel the surrounding reef.
If you're driving, park (ST10 per day) at the shop with the Namu’a sign in Mutiatele; they’ll call the resort to come pick you up.
Anita’s Beach BungalowsBUNGALOW$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %777 9673; anitasbeachbungalows@hotmail.com; Main South Coast Rd, Lalomanu; open/enclosed/ensuite bungalows, all incl breakfast & dinner ST155/215/360; pW)
Unmissable in pink and green, Anita's is a longtime Lalomanu favourite: it's fun, friendly and its location can't be beaten. The open fale offer the usual mattress on the floor and pull-down plastic sheets, the enclosed ones have a modicum more privacy, while the ensuite fale have fans, lockable doors and their own bathroom. There’s a sociable restaurant (mains ST13 to ST25) and bar.
Taufua Beach FalesBUNGALOW$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %844 1051; www.taufuabeachfales.com; Main South Coast Rd, Lalomanu; s/d bungalows from ST120/180, units from ST120/240, all incl buffet breakfast & dinner; pW)
Yellow and mint-green fale are as bright as the smiles of the owner and staff, and the spectacular Lalomanu beach is steps away. Basic open fale have mattresses on the floor; closed ones have walls, fans and proper beds. If fale aren't your thing, choose one of the simple units about 900m up the hill.
A fiafia (open to nonguests) is held on Wednesday and Saturday nights in the sociable dining fale; guests are treated to a full traditional lunch on Sunday afternoons.
Litia Sini’s Beach ResortBUNGALOW$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %41050; www.litiasinibeach.ws; Main South Coast Rd, Lalomanu; s/d bungalows garden ST265/300, beachfront ST295/365, all incl breakfast & dinner; 3-night minimum stay; pW)
It’s well worth shelling out for the enclosed beachfront fale, which have terraces right over the outrageous Lalomanu beach and are decorated in bright whites and blues; the garden fale are decent but drab. All have shared bathrooms and there’s a big restaurant area overlooking the water. The prices are steep for fale, but you do get a ceiling fan, electric light and lockable door.
Aga Reef ResortRESORT$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %47800; www.agareefresort.com; Main South Coast Rd, Lalomanu; r ST550, villas ST790-1040; paWs)
This posh boutique resort, perched over a stunning stretch of water, is one for the luxury lovers: it's stylish, spotless and the staff is exceptional. There are beautiful rooms available in the large wooden main building, but for a real splurge, nab an Island Villa with an over-water deck (the VIP Villas take indulgence up yet another notch, with private plunge pools).
The picture-perfect lagoon is ideal for snorkelling and kayaking (both are free to guests), or lap up the views from the two wonderful pools.
Saleapaga to Aufaga
There are several beach fale places along Saleapaga Beach – a stretch almost as gorgeous as Lalomanu (nitpickers may notice a few pebbles blemishing otherwise perfect white sand).
Faofao Beach FalesBUNGALOW$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %844 1067; www.beachfalesamoa.com; Main South Coast Rd, Saleapaga; bungalows ST70, s/d r ST150/250, all incl breakfast & dinner; paW)
Faofao treats guests like family, and their charming, all-natural thatched fale make for a wonderful home away from home (the air-conditioned rooms are pretty pleasant too). The beach is a stunner, and great for swims or snorkelling (gear ST5 per day). Mealtimes often feel like social events; nonguests are welcome to join the Saturday night fiafia and Sunday umu feasts.
Manusina Beach FalesBUNGALOW$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %846 5398; www.manusinabeachfales.ws; Main South Coast Road, Saleapaga; s/d bungalows open ST80/150, enclosed ST100/180, all incl breakfast & dinner; pW)
This place may be simple, but if you're after a warm welcome, gorgeous views, fresh food and cleanliness (even the shared toilets are spotless, a fale rarity), it's a tough one to beat, especially at these prices. There are six beachfront fale (two of which are enclosed); all have glorious views and working power points. The family that runs it is exceptionally friendly and helpful.
oSeabreeze ResortRESORT$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %41391; www.seabreezesamoa.com; off Main South Coast Rd, Aufaga; d/tr/q incl breakfast from ST587/806/1006; aWs)
Set in a black-lava-rock bay lined with palm trees and dotted with tiny islands, this exclusive resort has beautifully built bungalows decorated in minimal, tropical style. Kayaks are available or you can snorkel in front and swim to isolated patches of beach. There's an excellent restaurant and bar; optional full meal plan ST130 per day. No kids under 13.
Seabreeze RestaurantINTERNATIONAL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %41391; www.seabreezesamoa.com; off Main South Coast Rd, Aufaga; mains ST35-75; h8am-9pm)
Beautifully appointed and idyllically situated on the edge of the bay, this restaurant offers the best food by far at this end of the island. The slow-cooked smoky barbecue ribs melt in your mouth, as do the real Indian curries; for the ultimate experience, let the chef choose for you. Fridays are fiafia night; try the gourmet woodfired pizzas on weekends (noon to 4pm).
South Coast
The fact that Samoa’s swankiest resorts are clumped on this stretch of coastline says much about its beauty. It’s a delight to drive through the villages, with their brightly painted houses echoing the vibrant colours of the native flora. While the lowlands are impeccably manicured, those seeking untamed nature can explore the rugged the O Le Pupu-Pu'e National Park.
Many of the beaches are a bumpy drive from the main road, and give a welcome sense of seclusion after the road-hugging bays of Aleipata.
1Sights & Activities
The south coast of Upolu is dotted with secluded, surf-lapped beaches that you're likely to have all to yourself; if you've ever wanted to play castaway, this is the place to do it. You'll likely be asked to pay admission to most beaches; prices depend on the size of your vehicle (and who's doing the asking), but expect to shell out anywhere from ST15 to ST30.
Vaiula BeachBEACH
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; South Coast)
There's decent surfing to be had at this pretty beach, accessed from Tafatafa village.
Aganoa Black Sand BeachBEACH
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; admission per car ST15, surf fee ST15)
This gorgeous beach is a beautiful spot for a paddle or a picnic. The water is deep enough for swimming but there’s no reef to protect you – the snorkelling, however, is some of the best on the island. There’s a popular surf-break (for experienced boarders only) called Boulders ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Main South Coast Rd) here, just off Cape Niuato’i. The rough 3km track to Aganoa is 150m east of the stone bridge in Sa’agafou – don’t attempt it without a 4WD. The beach is a 10-minute walk to the east.
SalamumuBEACH
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
This village is home to a beautiful set of beaches reached by a potholed 5.5km track.
MatarevaBEACH
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
You'll find a series of delightful coves with shallow snorkelling areas and lots of rock pools.
O Le Pupu-Pu’e National ParkNATIONAL PARK
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Main South Coast Rd; h7am-6pm)F
The name of this 29-sq-km national park means ‘from the coast to the mountaintop’. There are some superb (if rough) hikes to be had here. A trail (six hours return) winds through thick jungle to Pe’ape’a Cave, a large lava tube inhabited by pe’ape’a (swiftlets); bring a torch. From here, the hardcore can continue along a heavily overgrown trail to Ofa Waterfall (three days return). For a less intense tramp, the 700m Ma Tree Walk ends at a gigantic rainforest tree with huge buttress roots.
For the longer walks, a guide, such as Eti from SamoaOnFoot, is essential.
At the park’s western boundary, a bumpy 3km unsealed access road (open 7am to 4pm) leads to the magnificently rugged O Le Pupu Lava Coast, where a rocky coastal trail leads along lava cliffs, the bases of which are constantly harassed by enormous waves.
Togitogiga WaterfallsWATERFALL
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Off Main South Coast Rd)F
A glorious spot for a splash, this series of gentle waterfalls are separated by blessedly cool waterholes. It's best to visit in the wet season. To get here, take the access road for O Le Pupu-Pu’e National Park and stop at the parking area. There are changing rooms and toilets on-site.
THE RISE OF THE BLUE WORMS
Samoa’s most anticipated party has an unlikely guest of honour: the humble worm. Called Palolo Rising, festivities begin on the seventh day after the full moon in October or November (or sometimes both) when the palolo reefworm emerges from the coral reefs to mate. The blue-green vermicelli-shaped worms – rich in calcium, iron and protein – are a prized delicacy, and are said to be a powerful aphrodisiac. Parties take place on beaches at the worm-catching spots; when the creatures finally appear at around midnight, crowds carrying nets and lanterns hurriedly wade into the sea to scoop them up.
4Sleeping
Le Valasi's Beach FalesBUNGALOW$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %35221; www.valasisfales.com; Main South Coast Rd, Savaia-Lefaga; per person incl breakfast & dinner ST120; p)
This sweet spot is a winner, with spotless, traditional fale, extremely welcoming owners, family-style fresh food and a wonderful location beside a giant clam reserve (snorkel it for ST5). It feels more like a homestay here than a hotel. Bikes, kayaks and snorkelling gear are available.
Tiavi Mountain EscapeCABIN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %774 7810; off Cross Island Rd, Tiavi; cabins ST95; p)
This is a great little place: away from the swelter of the coast but with a million-dollar view of it. Cabins have small decks that catch the mountain breeze; there's also a guest kitchen, a friendly posse of dogs and a playground. Bring your own supplies, mossie coils and a deck of cards: there's a whole lot of wonderful nothing to do up here.
oCoconuts Beach Club ResortRESORT$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %24849; www.cbcsamoa.com; Main South Coast Rd, Maninoa; ste/beach bungalows/villas/overwater bungalows from ST1000/1200/1400/1800; paWs)
This the hippest resort in the country. Samoa's only overwater fale are found here, and what a find they are, with huge, luxuriously-appointed bedrooms, outdoor sunken tubs and two sun decks apiece. Back on land, beach fale have covered decks and stylish interiors; many of the villas line a river and are accessed via bridges. ‘Treehouse’ suites are back from the beach but have good views.
No kids under three.
oLupe Sina TreesortBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %773 5875; www.lupesinatreesort.net; off Cross Island Rd, Tiavi; treehouses ST520-730; pW)
If you're looking for a (literal) love-nest, grab your bags – and your beloved – and head up the hill to Lupe Sina, home to two extraordinary treehouses. The bigger one is built 12m up a gigantic banyan tree; the other is 10m up an ava tree, with a suspended bedroom and a glass ceiling for unforgettable star-gazing.
The views, obviously, are magnificent; the professional staff, free pancake breakfasts and facilities are equally remarkable. There's an excellent on-site restaurant and tour desk. No kids under seven.
Return to Paradise ResortRESORT$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %35055; www.returntoparadiseresort.com; Lefaga; r/ste/villas from ST600/1100/1700; paWs)
Sitting smack on the beach that starred in the 1953 Gary Cooper film Return to Paradise, this sparkling, upmarket resort is a destination unto itself: with four pools, three restaurants and activities galore (including traditional spearfishing and kayaking lessons, turtle swimming and snorkelling over a giant clam reserve), there's no chance of tropical ennui setting in. Accommodation ranges from tidy hotel rooms to luxurious villas and suites.
Sa’moana ResortRESORT$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %842 8880; www.samoanaresort.com; Salamumu; bungalows ST520-890, beach houses ST1200; aWs)
Sa'moana has a divine location on a white-sand beach that tumbles past black lava formations into a stunning lagoon. Upscale bungalows sit directly on the beach; there's a two-storey house (with a private stretch of sand) for larger groups. As well as offering tons of tours and special surf packages, there are family-friendly activities galore, babysitters, fab pool and a free kids' menu for those under 11.
Saletoga Sands Resort & SpaRESORT$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %41212; www.saletogasands.com; Main South Coast Rd, Matatufu; villas ST610-1080; paWs)
This new resort is more akin to one you'd find in Fiji than far-less-touristed Samoa: it's big, shiny, and draws everyone from honeymooners to families (it's one of the few resorts in Samoa that offer a kids' club). Villas are modern and have outdoor showers. Flash facilities include a great pool (with swim-up bar), a gym, a spa and a splendid restaurant; its fiafia nights (Wednesdays) shouldn't be missed.
Sinalei Reef ResortRESORT$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %25191; www.sinalei.com; Main South Coast Rd, Maninoa; villas ST973-3000; paWs)
If you like lazing around the pool and being handed cocktails by charming waiters, Sinalei is the place to do it. This beautifully landscaped plot by the ocean offers well-appointed stand-alone units, plus two restaurants, tennis courts, a golf course, a watersports centre and good snorkelling around an ocean spring. The staff are delightful; rooms are comfy but a bit plain for the price. No kids under 12.
DO DROP IN
Upolu’s south coast is blessed with top-notch breaks that draw experienced surfers (these waves are not for newbies) from around the world. Though one of the biggest attractions here is the lack of crowds, there is a cluster of surf camps and package tours catering to those who crave waves. Hang ten with any of these recommended operators:
Vaiula Fales ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %729 5595; www.samoasurfsecrets.com.au; Tafatafa; bungalow incl breakfast & dinner per person from ST60; pW) Cheap fale, close to the breaks and with a sociable surf bar on the beach. Samoa Surf Secrets is based here.
Salani Surf Resort ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %41069; www.salanisurfresort.com; Salani; surfer package per d/share ST675/400, min 3-night stay; aiW) On the mouth of the Fupisia River, with excellent left- and right-hand breaks in view.
Offshore Adventures ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %750 8825; www.offshoreadventuressamoa.com; Salamumu; accommodation & surfing packages per person per day from ST320; pW) Runs popular 'surfaris' for a maximum of five guests.
Sa'moana Resort A more upmarket resort that also offers surf packages.
5Eating
Lupe's Cocktail Bar & RestaurantINTERNATIONAL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %31223; www.lupesbeachfale.com; Main South Coast Rd, Maninoa; mains from ST12; h8am-late)
For a down-to-earth, filling and home-cooked meal by the sea, check this little place out. They whip up anything and everything here, from pasta to palusami, and their trademark burgers are outstanding. Sunday lunches aren't to be missed. You can sleep your meal off in one of the basic beach fale (from ST60).
Get there by taking the Coconuts Beach Club Resort entrance, then turn left.
Laumo’osi Fale Restaurant & Ava i Toga Pier RestaurantINTERNATIONAL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %25191; www.sinalei.com; Sinalei Reef Resort, Main South Coast Rd, Maninoa; mains ST25-75; h8am-9pm)
Sinalei alternates evening meals between its two restaurants. The pier restaurant is the pick of the two, offering an eclectic menu of Samoan dishes, Japanese noodles, pastas, salad and grills in a romantic waterside setting. Themed buffet dinners are served in the fale restaurant. Wednesdays are fiafia nights (the knife-throwing show is famous); stuff yourself silly at the Saturday barbecue.
Mika’s RestaurantINTERNATIONAL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %24849; www.cbcsamoa.com; Coconuts Beach Club Resort, Main South Coast Rd, Maninoa; mains ST25-75; h8am-9pm)
Chef Mika travels the globe for inspiration, serving delicious Italian, French and Samoan dishes and a wonderful Hawaiian ahi poke salad (raw fish with sesame oil and chilli). Save room for a treat from the extensive tropical desserts menu.
Northwestern Upolu
The main reason for staying here is to be near the airport, the ferries to Savai’i and the boats to the Apolima Strait islands. The coastline is quite built-up (for Samoa, that is), particularly between Apia and the airport, and the brilliantly coloured lagoon is too shallow for a truly satisfying swim.
1Sights
EFKS MuseumMUSEUM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %42967; www.cccs.org.ws; Main West Coast Rd, Malua; adult/child ST10/5; h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri)
About halfway between the international airport and Apia, this museum – run by the Congregational Christian Church – is Samoa's largest. While the displays aren't earth-shatteringly exciting, interesting local contemporary artworks and inspiring woodcarvings make this a worthwhile stop if you're in the area. As might be expected, there are also artefacts dating back to Samoa's early missionary days. An outdoor turtle pond will give the littlies respite from the collections within.
4Sleeping & Eating
Airport LodgeHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %45584; www.airportlodgesamoa.com; Main West Coast Rd, Mulifanua; s/d bungalows from ST150/180, r ST280; paW)
As uninspiring as its name may be, Airport Lodge actually has a lot going for it. It's close to the airport and wharf, the hotel rooms are huge and clean (the cute enclosed garden fale are smaller but perfectly serviceable) and it's a lot cheaper than nearby resorts, though meals are expensive for what they are (the gigantic baked mac and cheese offers the best value).
There's no pool, but guests can swim off a private landing across the road. Outdoor Samoa is based here.
oIfiele'ele PlantationB&B$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %42554; www.ifieleele.com; off Main West Coast Rd, Fasitoo-Uta; villas/studios ST560/460; paWs)S
Set on a six-hectare working tropical fruit plantation, this self-catering retreat is the definition of intimate, with just one villa and a studio (both are modern and clean). Active guests can play tennis, tramp the private walking track or partake in cultural activities; those giving in to the languid surrounds can paddle in the lap pool or watch resident goats at play.
Full kitchens are provided, though catered meals can be arranged.
Sheraton Aggie Grey's Lagoon ResortRESORT$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %45663; www.sheratonsamoaaggiegreysresort.com; Main West Coast Rd, Mulifanua; r/ste from ST650/790; paWs)
The best things about this sprawling resort are its large pool, spacious grounds, proximity to the airport and wharf, and long list of facilities, including a 160-acre golf course, free kids club (ages four to 12), two restaurants, Samoa's only casino ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %759 9909; www.whitesandscasino-samoa.com; Sheraton Aggie Grey's Resort, Mulifanua; h2pm-4am) and AquaSamoa, the lone dive centre on Upolu. Aggie's turns on a scintillating fiafia every Friday night (ST85). Rooms are comfy enough but lack pizazz.
The resort allows nonguests to use its facilities for ST25: kids will tell you that the resort pool is worth every cent.
Le Vasa ResortRESORT$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %46028; www.levasaresort.com; Main West Coast Rd, Cape Fatuosofia; r ST200, bungalows ST300-375, villas ST600-675, all incl breakfast; paWs)
A millennium ago the Tongans were booted out of Samoa at this grassy headland, but you can expect a warmer welcome at this personable little resort. It's set on a stunning lagoon (no beach, though there is one within strolling distance) and there's a good pool. All fale and villas have gorgeous sea views; cheaper rooms look over a landscaped garden.
Anyone is welcome at the open-air restaurant (mains from ST50) and the fun Ugly Mermaid Bar.