Manono

Pop 889 / Area 3 sq km

If you thought Upolu was mellow, try the tiny, tranquil island of Manono on for size. Canines and cars have been banished here, and the only things that might snap you out of a tropical reverie are occasional blasts from stereos and the tour groups that periodically clog the island’s main trail.

It’s obligatory for visitors to do the 1½-hour circumnavigation of the island via the path that wends its way between the ocean and people’s houses. They’re friendly sorts here; expect to be greeted with a cheery ‘malo’ a dozen or so times.

The trail winds through Lepuia’i, where you’ll see the two-tiered Grave of 99 Stones ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Manono). Translated from the Samoan, the name actually means ‘Grave of the Missing Stone’ and is dedicated to high chief Vaovasa, who was killed after an unsuccessful attempt to abduct his 100th wife from Upolu. The missing stone at the grave’s centre represents the missing wife. The trail’s most beautiful section is Manono’s less-populated northern edge, where little bays offer terrific views of Apolima. Apai village has the island’s best beach.

If you follow the path behind the women’s committee building in Salua, you’ll eventually end up on top of Mt Tulimanuiva (110m), where there’s a large star mound ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Manono). Nearby is the grave of Afutiti ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Manono), a chief who was buried standing up to keep watch over the island. Allow 90 minutes to two hours for this side trip.

4Sleeping

Sunset View FalesBUNGALOW$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %759 6240; bookings@samoa-hotels.ws; Lepuia’i; bungalows per person with/without bathroom ST130/100)

Rustic but bright beach shacks are offered here (now up on the hill since the 2009 tsunami wiped out the waterfront ones), along with a daily boat trip out to the edge of the reef for memorable snorkelling stints. Price includes all meals and boat transfers.

Sweet EscapeBUNGALOW$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %728 0914; www.sweetescapesamoa.com; Faleu; bungalows per person incl breakfast & dinner ST120)

Facing Upolu, these enclosed, bright-yellow fale are closely clustered together on a sandy spit looking over the lagoon. Tours and cooking classes are available.

8Getting There & Away

Both Samoa Scenic Tours and Polynesian Xplorer offer day tours of Manono. Outdoor Samoa runs kayaking trips (from ST140) to the island.

If you’d rather go it alone, head for the jetty just south of Le Vasa Resort at Manono-uta village. Buses marked either ‘Manono-uta’ or ‘Falelatai’ (ST6.50) will get you here from Apia (allow 90 minutes). The boats leave when there are enough people (usually when the bus arrives) and the cost is ST5 each way. If you want to charter the whole boat expect to pay about ST40 each way. Although the boats are small, Manono is inside the reef so the 20-minute trip isn’t usually rough.

Apolima

Pop 80 / Area 1 sq km

Few travellers make the trip out to the minuscule but marvellous Apolima. From a distance, its steep walls look completely inaccessible; when you get closer you can spy the narrow gap in the northern cliffs, through which small boats can enter the crater and land on a sandy beach. The small settlement consists of a handful of buildings interspersed with pigpens, jungly foliage and (naturally) a large church. To get an overview of the island, climb up to the small lighthouse perched high on the crater’s northern rim.

Getting to Apolima isn’t easy. You’ll need an invitation to stay with a local family; Sunset View Fales, on nearby Manono, may be able to arrange this – plus a boat to come and collect you – but you’ll have to negotiate a fee.

Savai’i

Pop 43,142 / Area 1700 sq km

Samoa’s ‘Big Island’ offers a spectacular scenic smorgasbord of riotous rainforest, sea-smashed cliffs, pristine waterfalls and ragged volcanic cones (around 450 of them). Though visitors will be taken by Savai’i’s gentle, snoozy ambience, the island itself – the largest shield volcano in the South Pacific – has volatile tendencies, most dramatically displayed in the eerie lava fields, village ruins and craters of the north and the explosive blowholes of the south coast.

Though it’s the largest island in Samoa (and the fourth largest in Polynesia), Savai’i is home to less than a quarter of the country’s population, and has little in the way of facilities or infrastructure. Fa’a Samoa (the Samoan Way) remains strong in Savai’i’s orderly villages, where the humid hush is broken only by the squeals of playing children, the buzz of weed-whackers and the soaring hymns of Sunday services.

8Getting There & Away

Air

Samoa Air operates charter flights between Maota Airport ( GOOGLE MAP ; Maota) and Asau Airport ( GOOGLE MAP ) on Savai'i and Faleolo and Fagali'i airports on Upolu. Email for bookings and fares.

Boat

Two car ferries tackle the 22km Apolima Strait between Upolu and Savai’i daily. The larger of the two boats, the Lady Samoa III, is the more comfortable. The trip across can take anywhere from 45 minutes to over an hour, depending on conditions.

Vehicles should be prebooked through the Samoa Shipping Corporation; many hotels and car rental agencies can also do this for you. Before putting your car on the ferry at Mulifanua Wharf, you must have its underside cleaned (free) at the spraying station 100m before the boat terminal. This is done to prevent the spread of the giant African snail.

LADY SAMOA III 'BIG BOAT' FERRY DEPARTURES

Departs Salelologa Departs Mulifanua
Sun 11am & 3pm Sun 1pm & 5pm
Mon 6am, 10am & 2pm Mon 8am, noon & 4pm
Tue 6am & 2pm Tue 8am & 4pm
Wed 6am, 10am & 2pm Wed 8am, noon & 4pm
Thu 6am & 2pm Thu 8am & 4pm
Fri 6am, 10am & 2pm Fri 8am, noon & 4pm
Sat 6am, 10am & 2pm Sat 8am, noon & 4pm

8Getting Around

Bus

Salelologa’s market is the main terminal for Savai’i’s colourful, crowded buses. For the east-coast beaches take the Pu’apu’a bus, or to continue on to Fagamalo, take the Lava Field Express. To carry on to Manase, take the Manase or Sasina bus. The Falealupo bus will take you around the Falealupo Peninsula, while the Salega or Fagafau buses trundle past the Alofaaga Blowholes and Satuiatua Beach. The most you’ll pay for a ride is ST10 (to Asau). Buses to out-of-the-way destinations are timed with the ferries.

Car

It’s a joy to drive the sealed coast road that circles the island, but keep an eye out for stray children, pigs, dogs and chickens. Off the main road you’ll encounter a few bumpy tracks where at the very least you’ll need a high-clearance 2WD (if not a 4WD if there’s been heavy rain). This includes the steep, rocky climb up Mt Matavanu.

There are several petrol stations around Salelologa but only a few scattered around the island.

Cars can be hired on Savai’i but, as there’s more competition on Upolu, if you’re staying several days it works out cheaper and easier to bring a car over on the ferry. A small 2WD Hyundai costs around ST170 per day.

The spanking new MotoSamoa (%764 5435; www.motosamoa.com; per day ST59, discounts for longer hire) group rents out 110cc scooters from three locations on Savai'i (see website for details); they'll also deliver to your accommodation.

DON’T MISS THE BOAT

The ferries to and from Savai’i can get very full, especially on weekends, holidays and Friday afternoons. Arrive at least an hour early on these days and get in the queue (in your car if you’re driving or in the departure lounge if you’re on foot) or you’ll risk not getting on – the captains are (fortunately) quite strict about not overloading the boats. If you're driving, buying your ticket in advance is a must.

Boats seldom run on ‘Samoa time’. A 2pm departure means a 2pm departure.

Taxi

A small army of taxis congregates around the Salelologa Market and the wharf.

Salelologa & the East Coast

Ragtag Salelologa stretches up from the ferry terminal, offering little of interest except for a fairly languid market ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Salelologa; hearly-late Mon-Sat); if your needs run more to groceries than geegaws, the big Frankies ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Salelologa; h6am-9pm) supermarket across the road has loads of fresh produce and groceries. There's nowhere better for supplies on the entire island.

Heading north you’ll pass a tight series of villages fronting a shallow lagoon. It’s only once you round the point at Tuasivi that things get exciting, as long white-sand beaches come into view, outlining the vivid aquamarine lagoon. The best of them, Si’ufaga and Lano, are among Savai’i’s finest. The area also has numerous freshwater pools and springs for bathing.

4Sleeping

Salelologa is handy to the wharf and makes a fine base, but it’s only once you head out of town that you really start to experience the restful charms of Savai’i.

Salelologa & Around

Ieu & Winnie's Islands View MotelMOTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %722 2557; islandsviewsavaii@gmail.com; Wharf Rd, Salelologa; 1-/2-bedroom units ST90/145; paW)

This small, hospitable family-run motel is a short stumble from the wharf. There are six simple units, a restaurant serving home-cooked meals, and – as the name promises – splendid views of nearby islands.

Savaiian HotelRESORT$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %51296; www.savaiianhotel.com; North Coast Rd, Lalomalava; s/d without bathroom ST55/80, bungalows ST85/115, units ST175/205; paWs)

The large enclosed fale here are many steps above your average beach hut, with balconies, fans and private bathrooms. The units have amenities including air-conditioning, while new budget rooms are basic but excellent value. They’re all set in a sparse garden between the village and the sea; the water’s too shallow for swimming, but there is a small pool.

It also rents snorkelling gear and kayaks, and can arrange tours of Savai'i.

Lusia’s Lagoon ChaletsBUNGALOW$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %51487; www.lusiaslagoon.com; South Coast Rd, Salelologa; bungalows s ST70-270, d ST120-320, s/d 145/200; aW)

Fall asleep to the lullaby of lapping waves at this charming, slightly ramshackle place. Accommodation varies dramatically: the cheapest fale teeter on stilts over the lagoon and are very basic (though their sea-gazing decks are adorably atmospheric), while those with private facilities have air-conditioning, mod-cons and a sturdier feel. The on-site restaurant-bar is social, scenic and open to all.

Kayaks are free, and there’s deep enough water for a proper swim off the pier.

Jet Over HotelHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %51565; www.jetoverhotel.com; r/ste ST225/250; paWs)

Just off the main road behind a cluster of shops, this is a surprisingly stylish place: the pool and grounds are impeccable, the restaurant serves up sublime meals (pancake lovers may embarrass themselves at the free buffet breakfasts), and the sea views are glossy-mag gorgeous. While the cheapest rooms are decent enough (if plain), the two-storey, self-contained beach-facing suites get top marks.

It turns on a mean fiafia every Thursday night.

Tuasivi & Lano

oJoelan Beach FalesBUNGALOW$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %722 9588; www.joelanbeachfales.ws; North Coast Rd, Lano Beach; open/enclosed bungalow incl breakfast & dinner ST120/140; pW)

Long, languid Lano Beach easily rates as one of the best strips of sand on Savai’i, and Joelan’s simple but well-kept thatched fale nab the best bit – some are so close to the water you could almost dangle your toes in the surf. The food here is bountiful and beautiful, as is the down-home hospitality. Ask about taking its paopao (traditional canoe) for a paddle.

Lauiula Beach FalesBUNGALOW$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %53897; www.lauiulabeachfales.com; North Coast Rd, Lano Beach; bungalow beach/garden per person incl breakfast & dinner from ST70/50; pW)

Right next to Joelan’s, the beach here has eroded away quite a bit but huddled-together fale are more ‘posh’ thanks to linoleum floors and a more sturdy thatch enclosure: for an extra ST10 you can have actual walls. There’s a pro set-up with tours and transport on offer. Breakfast and dinner are served in a gorgeously carved seafront dining fale.

Amoa ResortRESORT$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %53518; www.amoaresort.com; North Coast Rd, Tuasivi; bungalows/villas ST520/640; paWs)

This recently revamped and rebranded boutique resort sits pretty across the road from an eye-smartingly turquoise lagoon. Large luxurious villas and beautiful bungalows hook around a lushly landscaped pool (with swim-up bar), and its magnificent restaurant – specialising in nouveau-Pacific cuisine – deserves many stars. It's easily the most upmarket choice on this stretch of coast.

5Eating & Drinking

oTaefu T Matafeo StoreCAFE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %764 5435; North Coast Rd, Asaga; snacks ST1-10; h7am-8pm Mon-Sat, 7am-9am & 5-8pm Sun; W)

If you're driving between Salelologa and the north coast, do yourself a favour and stop at this absolute gem of a place. It doesn't look like much, but there are sweet surprises in store: excellent espresso, indescribably wonderful homemade cakes (the chocolate is legendary), icy beers and light meals, including a mindblowing kimchi, all served in a delightful courtyard. There's even free wi-fi!

CC's Restaurant and BarINTERNATIONAL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %51487; www.lusiaslagoon.com/dining; Lusia's Lagoon Chalets, Salelologa; mains ST19-45; h7am-10pm)

Overlooking a lovely lagoon with views to Upolu, this casual place serves super-fresh seafood, traditional Samoan dishes, curries and hearty grilled meats. Pop by in the morning for strong espresso and homemade cake, or watch the sun set with a cold cocktail in hand.

LeSogaimiti Restaurant & BarINTERNATIONAL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %51296; www.savaiianhotel.com; Savaiian Hotel, Main North Rd, Lalomalava; mains ST15-45)

At the Savaiian Hotel, this decent, dependable restaurant offers water views and some truly filling meals. A varied menu lists everything from (very good) seafood, chicken, sausages and steak to Samoan classics and spicy curries. It also has a kids' menu and vegetarian options.

oAmoa RestaurantINTERNATIONAL$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %53518; www.amoaresort.com; Amoa Resort, North Coast Rd, Tuasivi; mains ST25-75)

This place is a true gem, and unlike anywhere else you'll find on Savai'i: it's a foodie destination unto itself. Fresh, locally sourced ingredients are used to create truly innovative takes on Samoan and Pacific classics, including palusami risotto balls, coconut-crusted chicken and homemade pasta infused with taro leaves.

SUNDAY LUNCH

On Sunday mornings you’ll find the islands shrouded in smoke as villagers light fires to warm stones needed for the umu (ground ovens) used to bake to’ona’i (Sunday lunch). Visitors sometimes complain that nothing happens in Samoa on Sunday, but it’s hardly true – after a small breakfast (on account of the looming lunch), Samoans go to church and sing their lungs out, at noon they eat an enormous roast dinner and in the afternoon they sleep.

You may be lucky enough to be invited to a family to’ona’i. A typical spread includes baked fish and other seafood (freshwater prawns, crabs, octopus cooked in coconut milk), suckling pig, baked breadfruit, bananas, palusami (coconut cream wrapped in taro leaves), salads and curry dishes.

8Information

ANZ BankBANK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Salelologa; h8.30am-3pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat)

Has an outdoor ATM.

Bank South PacificBANK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Salelologa; h8.30am-3pm Mon-Wed, to 4pm Thu-Fri)

The outdoor ATM accepts most cards.

Malietoa Tanumafili II HospitalHOSPITAL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %53511; North Coast Rd, Tuasivi)

Has on-call doctors and a pharmacy. Other basic hospitals are at Safotu and Sataua.

Post OfficePOST

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Blue Bird Mall, Salelologa; h8.30am-noon & 1-4pm Mon-Fri)

Has telephones.

Central North Coast

Sporting surreal lava fields, captivating caves and arguably the best beaches on the Big Island, it’s no surprise that this is the most popular stretch on Savai’i. The coast has an abundance of accommodation options ranging from traditional fale to sumptuous suites; lovely little Manase offers the most choice. The high chief here had the foresight to ban dogs, making this one of the most unstressful villages to explore outside of Manono.

The bus from Salelologa to Manase costs about ST7; there's an ATM and petrol station at Manase.

1Sights

The Mt Matavanu eruptions between 1905 and 1911 created a moonscape in Savai’i’s northeastern corner as a flow of lava 10m to 150m thick rolled through plantations and villages. The North Coast Rd crosses this dark, fractured lava field.

Sale’aula Lava FieldsHISTORIC SITE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; North Coast Rd, Sale’aula; adult/child ST5/3; h8.30am-5pm)

This striking spot offers a fascinating glimpse of the destruction wrought by the 1905 eruption of Mt Matavanu. Most photogenic is the ruined LMS Church: 2m of lava flowed through its door and was eerily imprinted by corrugated iron when the roof collapsed. Nearby, the Virgin’s Grave purportedly marks the burial place of a girl so pure that lava flowed around her grave, leaving it untouched.

Amid all the lava, there are some nice grassy picnic spots here; littlies will enjoy chasing the squillion resident chickens.

Mauga Village CraterSCENIC AREA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; North Coast Rd, Mauga)

The modern, iron-roofed fale of Mauga village encircle a shallow, almost perfectly circular crater populated by banana palms. The access road is guarded by an enormous Catholic church. Approach a villager if you’d like to be shown around. It's 5km south of Sale’aula

Mt Matavanu CraterVOLCANO

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ST20; h9am-4pm Mon-Sat)

If you've got a 4WD and a sturdy pair of boots, a visit to the volcano responsible for the devastation visited upon northeastern Savai’i a century ago is worth a few hours of your time. In addition to the fun of the very bumpy ride and pleasant views, you'll also get to meet ‘Da Craterman’, who maintains the track and collects the fee for his village (charming as he is, don't let him charge you more than ST20 per person).

From Safotu take the turn-off to Paia village, then follow the signposted track up the mountain. After a lengthy stint of bouncing over the old lava flow, you’ll reach Craterman’s fale: if he’s not around, keep heading up and you’ll doubtless find him. From here there’s an even bumpier 2km to the car park, where a 10-minute trail leads to the crater’s edge. Keep the kids tight at hand: there’s a vertiginous drop into the lush greenness below. The whole route is lined with Craterman’s cheesy signs representing the visitors from 110-and-counting countries who have made the trek.

Pe’ape’a CaveCAVE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; North Coast Rd; adult/child ST7/4; h8am-5pm)

This cave sits beside the coast road just south of Letui. A round-trip guided exploration of this small lava tube takes only 10 minutes, but you’ll see white-rumped Polynesian swiftlets and their nests up close. Bring your own torch.

WORTH A TRIP

DWARF’S CAVE

Dwarf’s CaveCAVE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Near Paia Village; guide per group around ST20; h8.30am-5pm Mon-Sat)

This intriguing subterranean lava tube leads downwards as if to the centre of the earth. The cave is named after a legendary group of dwarves, who apparently still live in its depths, and leave the occasional footprint. It’s said that no one – except maybe the dwarves – has reached the end of it, and your guides (the village matai or local boys) will keep leading you through its prodigious depths, crossed by underground rivers, until you tell them to turn around.

Bring your own torch and reliable footwear, and be prepared to swim and get seriously muddy.

The cave is signposted off the Main North Coast Rd, just west of the Mt Matavanu turn-off. In Paia, look for the faded signpost on the right and wait outside the blue fale at this intersection; someone should appear to guide you to the cave.

2Activities

Dive Savai’iDIVING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %54172; www.divesavaii.com; North Coast Rd, Fagamalo; hclosed Sun)

Besides diving interesting sites including a Missionary-era shipwreck (two-tank dives ST275), this family-friendly outfit offers PADI open-water courses (ST1260) and half-day snorkelling tours (ST65, snorkelling gear ST20); turtle and dolphin sightings aren't guaranteed, but they are common. It also hires snorkelling equipment on a casual basis (full set per 24 hours ST30).

4Sleeping & Eating

There are many quality fale places lining the North Coast Rd. Most places include breakfast in the rates; those in Manase throw in lunch and dinner as well.

Sale’aula

oBayview ResortRESORT$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %54170; www.bayviewresort.ws; North Coast Rd, Sale'aula; bungalow ST220-300; paW)

First you'll be taken by its dramatic location on a solid river of black lava, then you'll be knocked for six by the dazzling turquoise bay it's named for, and by the time you're lounging on the massive deck attached to the best cottages, you'll be deadset on extending your stay. Swimming and white-sand sunning is superb; check out the lava pool at high tide.

The restaurant means well, but is very hit-or-miss; if you're driving, there's an excellent pizza place five minutes up the road.

Fagamalo

Le Lagoto Resort & SpaRESORT$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %58189; www.lelagoto.ws; North Coast Rd, Fagamalo; d ST775-900; paWs)

The wooden bungalows at this boutique beachside resort are the plushest you’ll find on the island; they're wonderfully atmospheric with intricate Samoan-style interiors and blue-sea views. The restaurant (7.30am tp 9pm, mains ST20 to ST70) is great some nights, uninspired the next, but it has an extensive kids' menu and good fiafia nights (Thursdays). It's open to nonguests.

Savai’i Lagoon ResortRESORT$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %54168; www.savaiilagoon.co.nz; North Coast Rd, Fagamalo; studios ST350, bungalows ST315-450; pW)

Taking the plum spot on one of Savai’i’s best and most protected beaches, these large self-contained units are clean and inviting, but overpriced for their bland interiors and lack of air-conditioning. The resort owns Samoa's only glass-bottomed boat; tours run twice daily (except Sundays) and cost ST40/20 for adults/children. Free activities include bocce, volleyball, kayaking and zooming around in a dinghy.

Leilina's PizzaPIZZA$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %54454; North Coast Rd, Fagamalo; pizzas ST24-45; h10am-8pm Mon-Sat, 11am-8pm Sun)

If you're hankering for pizza – especially crunchy, super-thin-crust pizza – this place is a godsend. The smell emanating forth from the kitchen is enough to work up a good drool; you'll be positively slobbering after a few bites of the wickedly spicy 'diavolo' (with pepperoni, chilli and garlic). Take it with you for a beach picnic, or dine in the small courtyard restaurant.

Manase

Tailua Beach FalesBUNGALOW$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %54102; tailuasbeachfales@gmail.com; North Coast Rd, Manase; bungalow per person incl breakfast & dinner ST70; pW)

This is a small, family-run collection of recently upgraded fale that are a step above their competition for their sea-facing decks, raised beds and spotlessness. Snorkellers report an abundance of turtles in the reef channel here. Nothing is too much trouble for the wonderful hostess Lua; you'll dream of her cooking long after you leave.

Regina’s Beach FalesBUNGALOW$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %54054; reginabeachfales@gmail.com; North Coast Rd, Manase; bungalow per person incl breakfast & dinner ST60; pW)

The fale here are of the traditional variety with woven blinds and mattresses on the floor, but they do have electric lights. Meals are low-key social events, with substantial local dishes such as roast breadfruit and taro served up at a communal dining table.

Tanu Beach FalesBUNGALOW$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %54050; tanubeachfales@gmail.com; North Coast Rd, Manase; bungalow per person incl breakfast & dinner ST70, s/d ST95/170; pW)

This long-standing establishment is huge, which is only fitting as it’s owned by the village’s ali’i (high chief; the man to be thanked for the dog ban). There are dozens of simple fale dotting the beach; the accommodation block across the road offers basic rooms with real beds and shared bathrooms. It runs occasional – and very lively – fiafia nights.

Stevenson's at ManaseRESORT$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %58219; www.stevensonsatmanase.com; North Coast Rd, Manase; bungalow/villa ST280/400, ste ST550-950; paW)

This is the most upmarket place in Manase, with accommodation ranging from enormous, super-modern suites and posh beach villas to boutique fale, complete with fridges and cool stone ensuites. Its popular outdoor bar overlooks a glorious beach, while across the road, its Tusitala Restaurant (mains ST28 to ST55) does the usual mix of international classics with a sprinkling of Samoan samples.

Northwestern Savai’i

Jutting out from the western end of Savai’i is the beautiful Falealupo Peninsula, rich with sites associated with significant Samoan legends. The peninsula’s remoteness and protected tracts of rainforest lend it an almost unnerving calm.

In past years, burglars have targeted tourists in this area, so lock your car and don’t leave anything of value in it or in your fale. Even if you don’t have anything stolen, you’ll likely feel robbed after having been asked for so many exaggerated ‘custom fees’ to tour the sites. It’s definitely one of the more beautiful areas of the island, though, so weigh the pros and cons of feeling swindled.

1Sights & Activities

Cape Mulinu’uVIEWPOINT

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Falealupo Rd; h8.30am-5pm Mon-Sat)

The country's most western point is not only gorgeously scenic (until Samoa hopped the dateline, it was the last place in the world the sun set each day), but home to many fascinating cultural and archaeological sites. The Fafa O Sauai’i outlook was one of Samoa’s most sacred spots in pre-Christian times; there's a great swimming hole here. Nearby is a star mound, Vaatausili Cave and the Vai Sua Toto (the ‘Blood Well’ – named after the warrior Tupa’ilevaililigi, who threw his enemies’ severed heads in here).

You may be hit up for an exorbitant admission fee; you can probably get away with ST10 per person.

Falealupo Canopy WalkNATURE RESERVE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Falealupo Rd; admission ST20; h7am-6pm)

This wobbly walk takes you across a 24m jerry-built bridge strung between two large trees almost 10m above the rainforest floor. After you cross the walkway to the second tree, climb via a slightly sturdier wooden ladder to a platform up a magical, nearly 230-year-old banyan tree. The walk is part of the Falealupo Rainforest Preserve, a customary-owned conservation area.

The ST20 admission also covers you for nearby attractions Moso’s Footprint and the House of Rock.

Moso’s FootprintARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Falealupo Rd; admission incl in Canopy Walkway ticket; h7am-6pm)

This ancient 1m-by-3m rock depression is decidedly unremarkable apart from the legend that surrounds it: apprently, the giant Moso made the footprint when he stepped over from Fiji to Samoa. You’ll find it well signposted in front of a tidy fale.

House of RockARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Falealupo Rd; admission incl in Canopy Walkway ticket; h7am-6pm)

Legend says this site – a partially collapsed lava tube – is the result of a house-building competition between Falealupo’s men and women, a contest the women won; it's a symbol of motivation for Samoan women to this day. It doesn't look like much (though it does make a handy cyclone shelter), but a good guide (ST5) with stories to tell will enliven the experience.

Falealupo RuinsRUINS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Falealupo)

Cyclones Ofa and Val struck the peninsula in 1990 and 1991, completely destroying the village of Falealupo. The decision was made to rebuild the village further inland and the ruined village was left in tatters, though some families have since moved back to rebuild. The ruins of the Catholic church (Falealupo Rd) are particularly enigmatic and eerily beautiful. You may be shaken down here, even if you just want to take a photograph.

A’opo Conservation Area & Mt SilisiliHIKING

The two- to three-day return trip to the summit of Mt Silisili (1858m), the highest point in Samoa, traverses some wonderful rainforested sections of the A’opo Conservation Area and Savai’i’s mountainous backbone. To organise a guide, speak to the pulenu’u (a combination of mayor and police chief) of A’opo; ask in the town’s small shop for directions.

You’ll pay around ST50 per person per day and will need to supply food and water and all the requisite camping and hiking equipment.

4Sleeping & Eating

Vaisala Beach HotelHOTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %58016; South Coast Rd, Vaisala; s/d from ST100/120, bungalow ST75; paW)

Quirky Vaisala has a distinct retro charm, with mismatched furnishings and a dated, barracks-like main building. Rooms are slightly oddball but comfortable, and all have terraces; the fale have traditional thatched roofs and louvres. The hotel’s restaurant has an outdoor deck and serves filling dinners, including a much-lauded lobster dish. It faces its own beautiful – and swimmable – beach.

Va-i-Moana Seaside LodgeBUNGALOW$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %58140; www.vaimoanaseasidelodge.com; South Coast Rd, Asau; open bungalow per person ST95, closed bungalow s ST140-170, d ST250-300, ste ST320-400, all incl breakfast & dinner; paW)

This friendly place sits on a sparkling cove, with a hodgepodge of lodgings that range from traditional open fale and enclosed bungalows perched over the surf to blissfully air-conditioned suites. There’s a good restaurant and bar, free kayaks and fishing tours on offer (from ST800 for two anglers). Ask the lovely owners about the site's fascinating history.

South Coast

With less reef to protect it, Savai’i’s south coast bears witness to dramatic confrontations between land and sea, resulting in blustering blowholes and some great surfing spots. Away from Mother Nature’s theatrics, this delightfully drowsy, sparsely populated stretch is a wonderful place to do very little at all.

1Sights

oAlofaaga BlowholesGEYSER

(Taga Blowholes; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; via Taga Village; admission ST5; h7am-6pm)

These powerful blowholes are among the most spectacular on Earth, and well worth going out of your way for. Strong waves are pushed through a series of lava tubes, causing rip-roaring, geyser-like explosions that shoot dozens of metres into the air. If this wasn't dramatic enough, villagers throw coconuts (for a fee: don't pay more than ST10) into the blowholes, where they blast up like cannonballs: it's thrilling stuff, and photographs extremely well. DO NOT get too close to the blowholes, no matter what the locals do.

Pay admission at the first fale and park your car at the second fale, near the main blowhole. You shouldn't have to pay admission again, though you may be asked to; there are a few crafty sorts around here, so keep your doors locked, even when you're inside the car.

Pulemelei MoundARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; off South Coast Rd)

Polynesia’s largest ancient structure is the intriguing, pyramidal Pulemelei Mound (sometimes called Tia Seu Ancient Mound). Constructed sometime between AD 1100 and 1400, it measures 65m by 60m at its base and rises to a height of more than 12m. Its original purpose continues to baffle experts. It’s a stirring place, with views from its stony summit to the ocean and into thick rainforest. The surrounding area is presumably covered in important archaeological finds but, for now, the jungle hides its secrets.

It's very difficult to visit the mound as it’s located on disputed land. There’s no signage or upkeep: the path to the site and the mound itself are very overgrown. Guides often refuse to take people here because they worry that someone who has an ambiguous claim to the land may hassle them into handing over an exorbitant fee, or worse, just kick them off. That said, it may be possible to pick up a guide; ask at the fale at nearby Afu-A-Au Falls.

If you want to try it sans-guide, head down the road flanked by iron poles that starts about 300m beyond the iron-girder bridge on the opposite side of the river from Afu-A-Au Falls (no sign). You’ll soon reach a rocky ford over a stream (impassable without a good 4WD). Park here, cross the creek at the bend and enter an overgrown track between two poles. The track follows an old road bordered by stone walls, then continues up a fern-filled path to the mound. The walk takes about an hour each way: you'll need water and sturdy shoes.

This is a very secluded area – women especially should not walk alone, and don’t leave any valuables in your car.

Afu-A-Au FallsWATERFALL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; off South Coast Rd; adult/child ST5/2; h8am-6pm Mon-Sat)

Gorgeous Afu-A-Au Falls, also known as Olemoe Falls, are a dream come true on a steamy Samoan day (which is, truthfully, almost every day). Cascading down to a blessedly cool 3m-deep waterhole in a secluded jungle, the falls are spring-fed, meaning swimming is possible even during the dry season. It's only signposted if you're travelling from the east; if you're coming from the west, turn left immediately after crossing the steel bridge. Pay at the fale by the entrance.

Tafua Peninsula Rainforest PreserveNATURE RESERVE

(admission ST5)

This preserve contains superb stands of rainforest and rugged stretches of lava coast studded with cliffs and sea arches. A highlight is the Tafua Savai’i crater: its sheer, deep walls are choked with vegetation, giving it a lost-world feel. This place is a birdwatcher's delight, and you will probably catch glimpses of flying foxes napping in the trees far below.

Take the side road signposted to Tafua opposite Ma’ota Airport and pay the ‘custom fee’ about 50m along. The hiking track to the crater is overgrown and can be hard to follow, so it’s worth taking the services of a guide (be sure to agree on a price beforehand) or at least asking directions from the village kids.

GATEWAY TO THE UNDERWORLD

The natural beauty of the Falealupo Peninsula befits its spiritual significance. In pre-Christian times it was believed to be the gateway for souls into the next world. According to tradition, there are two entrances to the underworld: one for chiefs and another for commoners. One entrance is through a cave near Cape Mulinu’u and the other is on the trail made by the setting sun over the sea.

2Activities

At the western end of Fa’a’ala village, a track leads to lovely Aganoa Beach. There are strong currents here, so swim with care. Ask at at Aganoa Lodge before surfing.

SatuiatuaSURFING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; per person ST10)

Surfers will find an excellent left-hand surf-break at Satuiatua; the fee is used to support the local school.

4Sleeping & Eating

Satuiatua Beach FalesBUNGALOW$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %846 4119; South Coast Rd, Satuiatua; bungalows per person incl breakfast & dinner ST75; pW)

Run by a family of women, this spotless place is loaded with simple and effective touches. Open fale have proper beds and are well maintained, while enclosed fale are more like large cottages; there are also a couple of ensuite units. The marvellous treehouse (with swings!) perched in a huge banyan tree is reason alone to stay, though the idyllic snorkelling and fantastic surfing get high marks too.

The restaurant (lunch ST20) serves good, hearty meals. It’s a good stop for lunch if you find yourself in these parts when the tummy rumbles.

Aganoa LodgeBUNGALOW$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %+1 310 990 6269; www.pegasuslodges.com; Aganoa Beach; 6-night surfer packages from ST5080; pW)

Recently rebranded and given a high-end makeover, this all-inclusive surf resort exploits the beauty of an exquisite little beach and its proximity to some of Savai'i's best breaks. Surfers (and their nonsurfing partners and families) shack up in luxurious fale with real beds, ensuites, open-air showers, electricity and surf-facing decks. Set meals are top-notch, locally sourced and served communally.

Surf package prices include all meals, accommodation, guided surf trips and return airport transfers.

Understand Samoa

Samoa Today

In 2012 Samoa celebrated 50 years of independence with huge pomp and partying. Though Samoa is very much its own country, it still relies heavily on foreign aid, particularly from Australia and New Zealand, with whom ties are very close. In 2014 Samoa hosted the third international Small Island Developing States (SIDS) conference, which culminated in the adoption of the Samoa Pathway, a document which – in part – saw global leaders pledge their support to sustainable development and the battles against climate change faced by small, vulnerable island nations.

History

Prehistory

The oldest evidence of human occupation in Samoa is Lapita village, partially submerged in the lagoon at Mulifanua on the island of Upolu. Carbon tests date the site to 1000 BC.

Archaeologists have discovered more than a hundred star-shaped stone platforms across the islands. It’s believed that these platforms, dubbed ‘star mounds’, were used to snare wild pigeons, a favoured pastime of matai (chiefs). Savai’i’s Pulemelei Mound is the largest ancient structure in the Pacific.

Around AD 950 warriors from Tonga established their rule on Savai’i, and then moved on to Upolu. They were eventually repelled by Malietoa Savea, a Samoan chief whose title, Malie toa (Brave warrior), was derived from the shouted tributes of the retreating Tongans. There was also contact with Fiji, from where legends say two girls brought the art of tattooing. The Samoans never really trusted their neighbours – togafiti (tonga fiji) means ‘a trick’.

European Contact

Whalers, pirates and escaped convicts apparently introduced themselves to Samoa well before the first officially recorded European arrival in the region. This was the Dutchman Jacob Roggeveen, who approached the Manu’a Islands in American Samoa in 1722. Other visitors followed in his wake and over the next 100 years numerous Europeans settled in. The settlers established a society in Apia and a minimal code of law in order to govern their affairs, all with the consent of Upolu chiefs, who maintained sovereignty in their own villages. Along with technological expertise, the palagi (Europeans) also brought with them diseases to which the islanders had no immunity.

Missionaries

In August 1830 missionaries John Williams and Charles Barff of the London Missionary Society (LMS) arrived at Sapapali’i on Savai’i’s eastern coast. They were followed by Methodist and Catholic missionaries, and in 1888 Mormons added to the competition for souls. Samoans were quite willing to accept Christianity due to the similarity of Christian creation beliefs to Samoan legend, and because of a prophecy by war goddess Nafanua that a new religion would take root in the islands. Although interdistrict warfare was not abolished until the start of the 20th century, schools and education were eagerly adopted.

Squabbling Powers

There were – and still are – four paramount titles relating to four ‘aiga (extended families equivalent to royal dynasties), in what is now Samoa: Malietoa, Tupua Tamasese, Mata’afa and Tu’imaleali’ifano. During the 1870s a civil dispute broke out between two of these families, dividing Samoa. Much land was sold to Europeans by Samoans seeking to acquire armaments to settle the matter.

The British, Americans and Germans then set about squabbling over Samoan territory, and by the late 1880s Apia Harbour was crowded with naval hardware from all three countries. Most of it subsequently sunk – not because of enemy firepower, but because of a cyclone that struck the harbour in March 1889. After several attempted compromises, the Tripartite Treaty was signed in 1899, giving control of Western Samoa to the Germans and eastern Samoa to the Americans.

Foreign Administration

In February 1900 Dr Wilhelm Solf was appointed governor, and the German trading company DHPG began to import thousands of Melanesians and Chinese to work on its huge plantations. But although the Germans had agreed to rule ‘according to Samoan custom’, they didn’t keep their word. In 1908 there was widespread discontent, and the organisation of the Mau a Pule (Mau Movement) by Namulau’ulu Lauaki Mamoe; he and his chief supporters were sent into exile soon after.

In 1914, at the outbreak of WWI, Britain persuaded NZ to seize German Samoa. Preoccupation with affairs on the home front prevented Germany from resisting. Under NZ administration Samoa suffered a devastating (and preventable) outbreak of influenza in 1919; more than 7000 people (one-fifth of the population) died, further fuelling anger with the foreign rulers. Increasing calls for independence by the Mau Movement culminated in the authorities opening fire on a demonstration at the courthouse in Apia in 1929.

Following a change of government (and policy) in NZ, Western Samoa’s independence was acknowledged as inevitable and even desirable, and in 1959 Prime Minister Fiame Mata’afa was appointed. The following year a formal constitution was adopted and, on 1 January 1962, independence was finally achieved.

Since Independence

The Human Rights Protection Party (HRPP) has been in power for most of the period since independence. Economic development has been excruciatingly slow or nonexistent, far below population growth, but at least the country has been politically stable.

Upolu and Savai’i have been battered by several huge tropical storms over the past two decades, including the severe Category Four cyclones Val (1991) and Evan (2012).

In 2009 the government switched driving from the right-hand side of the road to the left, apparently to allow access to cheap secondhand vehicle imports from NZ.

EARTHQUAKE & TSUNAMI DISASTER IN THE SAMOAS

On 29 September 2009 Upolu’s southern and eastern coasts and the south coast of Tutuila in American Samoa were struck by a tsunami that killed approximately 190 people and left thousands homeless. It began with an 8.1 magnitude earthquake with its epicentre 190km south of Apia, which struck at 6.48am local time. Eight minutes later, a 10m-high wave demolished Upolu’s south coast where people had little to no warning. On Tutuila, four tsunami waves between 4m and 6m were reported; these waves surged up to 1.6km inland, destroying homes and wiping out the electricity infrastructure.

In the years after the tsunami, resorts were rebuilt, new all-weather access roads were constructed, and visitors to many coastal regions will notice street signs pointing to tsunami evacuation routes leading to higher ground.

The Culture

Many visitors correctly sense that below the surface of the outwardly friendly and casual Samoan people lies a complex code of traditional etiquette. Beneath the light-heartedness, the strict and demanding Fa’a Samoa (Samoan Way) is rigorously upheld.

The National Psyche

‘Aiga, or extended family groupings, are at the heart of the Fa’a Samoa. The larger an ‘aiga, the more powerful it is, and to be part of a powerful ‘aiga is the goal of all traditionally minded Samoans. Each ‘aiga is headed by a matai, who represents the family on the fono (village council). Matai are elected by all adult members of the ‘aiga and can be male or female, but over 90% of current matai are male.

The fono consists of the matai of all of the ‘aiga associated with the village. The ali’i (high chief of the village) sits at the head of the fono. In addition, each village has one pulenu’u (a combination of mayor and police chief) and one or more tulafale (orators or talking chiefs). The pulenu’u acts as an intermediary between the village and the national government, while the tulafale liaises between the ali’i and outside entities, carries out ceremonial duties and engages in ritual debates.

‘Ava (kava) is a drink derived from the ground root of the pepper plant. The ‘ava ceremony is a ritual in Samoa, and every government and matai meeting is preceded by one.

Beneath the matai, members of a village are divided into four categories. The society of untitled men, the aumaga, is responsible for growing food. The aualuma, the society of unmarried, widowed or separated women, provides hospitality and produces various goods such as siapo (decorated bark cloth) and the ie toga (fine mats) that are an important part of fa’alavelave (lavish gift-exchange ceremonies). Married women are called faletua ma tausi. Their role revolves around serving their husband and his family. The final group is the tamaiti (children). Close social interaction is generally restricted to members of one’s own group.

Individuals are subordinate to the extended family. There is no ‘I’, only ‘we’. The incapable are looked after by their family rather than by taxpayers, and with such onerous family (plus village and church) obligations, it’s a struggle for any individual to become wealthy. Life is not about individual advancement or achievement, but about serving and improving the status of your ‘aiga. The communal ownership of land and lack of reward for individual effort tend to stymie Western-style economic development, but have kept control of most of Samoa’s resources in Samoan hands.

Lifestyle

Parents and other relatives treat babies with great affection, but at the age of three the children are made the responsibility of an older sibling or cousin. Fa’aaloalo is respect for elders, the most crucial aspect of the Fa’a Samoa, and children are expected to obey not just their immediate relatives, but all the matai and adults in the village as well as older siblings. Parents rarely hug or praise their children, so the youth often suffer from low self-esteem and lack confidence and ambition. Fun family activities are few and far between; a rare exception is White Sunday in October, when children eat first, star in church services, and are bought new clothes and toys. Some teenagers resort to musu (refusing to speak to anybody) as a form of protest.

Overriding all else in Samoa is Christianity. Every village has at least one large church, ideally a larger one than in neighbouring villages. These operate as the village social centre, the place where almost everyone makes an appearance on Sunday, dressed up in their formal best. Sunday-morning church services are inevitably followed by to’ona’i (Sunday lunch), when families put on banquets fit for royalty.

Sa, which means ‘sacred’, is the nightly vespers, though it’s not applied strictly throughout all villages. Sometime between 6pm and 7pm a gong sounds, signifying that the village should prepare for sa. When the second gong is sounded, sa has begun. All activity should come to a halt. If you’re caught in a village during sa, stop what you’re doing, sit down and quietly wait for the third gong, about 10 or 15 minutes later, when it’s over.

A rigid approach to Christianity has led to conservative attitudes on many social issues, including homosexuality, but this is tempered by a generally tolerant attitude to fa’afafine – men who dress and behave like women. The name fa’afafine means ‘like a woman’ and has no obvious parallel in Western society. Fa’afafine fulfil an important role in the social fabric, often helping out with the children and looking after their parents in old age. A fa’afafine may have a relationship with a man, but this isn’t seen as homosexual. Neither are they seen as women, per se.

Population

Three-quarters of Samoans live on the island of Upolu. The urban area of Apia houses around 21% of the nation’s population, with the rest sprinkled around the small villages that mainly cling to the coastline. Minorities include both expat and Samoan-born Europeans (called palagi in Samoan) and a small number of Chinese; both minorities are centred on Apia.

Sport

Sport in Samoa is a community event, which might explain why this tiny nation turns out a disproportionate number of great sportspeople. Drive through any village in the late afternoon and you’ll see people of all ages gathering on the malae (village green) to play rugby, volleyball and kirikiti. Fautasi (45-person canoe) races are held on special occasions. Samoa’s main obsession is rugby union and the members of the national team, Manu Samoa, are local heroes – as are the many Samoan players who fill the ranks of rugby union, rugby league and netball teams in NZ, Australia, the UK and France.

Arts

Architecture

Traditional (not to mention highly practical) Samoan architecture is exemplified by the fale, an oval structure with wooden posts but no walls, thus allowing natural airflow. It’s traditionally built on a stone or coral foundation and thatched with woven palm or sago leaves. Woven coconut-leaf blinds can be pulled down to protect against rain or prying eyes, but in truth, privacy in such a building is practically impossible.

Palagi-style square homes with walls, louvre windows and doors, though uncomfortably hot and requiring fans, have more status than traditional fale and are becoming more common in Samoa.

Fiafia

Originally, the fiafia was a village play or musical presentation in which participants would dress in costume and accept money or other donations. These days the term ‘fiafia night’ usually refers to a lavish presentation of Samoan fire- and slap-dancing and singing, accompanied by a buffet dinner. But traditional fiafia are still performed during weddings, birthdays, title-conferring ceremonies and at the opening of churches and schools.

Drummers keep the beat while dancers sing traditional songs illustrated by coordinated hand gestures. A fiafia traditionally ends with the siva, a slow and fluid dance performed by the village taupou (usually the daughter of a high chief), dressed in siapo with her body oiled.

Literature

Towering over Samoan literature is Albert Wendt, a novelist, poet, academic and latterly visual artist, now resident in NZ. Many of his novels deal with the Fa’a Samoa bumping against palagi ideas and attitudes, and the loss of Samoa’s pre-Christian spirituality; try Leaves of the Banyan Tree (1979), Ola (1995) or The Mango’s Kiss (2003). Perhaps some of the prose is too risqué for the Methodists who run most of Samoa’s bookshops, as copies are hard to track down in Samoa – you’ll have better luck overseas or online.

The Beach at Falesa by Robert Louis Stevenson is a brilliant short story set in Samoa by a master stylist with inside knowledge of the South Pacific. Stevenson spent the last four years of his life in Samoa.

Music

Music is a big part of everyday life in Samoa, whether it be the exuberant drumming that accompanies fiafia nights, the soaring harmonies of church choirs or the tinny local pop blaring out of taxis.

Traditionally, action songs and chants were accompanied by drums and body slaps, but guitars, ukuleles and Western-style melodies are now a firm part of the fiafia repertoire. Songs were once written to tell stories or commemorate events and this practice continues today. Love songs are the most popular, followed by patriotic songs extolling local virtues. We are Samoa by Jerome Grey is Samoa’s unofficial national anthem.

While clubs in Apia host local hip-hop and reggae-influenced acts, it’s offshore that Samoan artists have hit the big time, especially NZ-based rappers such as King Kapisi, Scribe and Savage.

Siapo & Ie Toga

The bark cloth known as siapo is made from the inner bark of the u’a (paper mulberry tree) and provides a medium for some of the loveliest artwork in Samoa.

The fine mat called ie toga is woven from pandanus fibres split into widths of just a couple of millimetres and can involve years of painstaking work. Ie toga, along with siapo, make up ‘the gifts of the women’ that must be exchanged at formal ceremonies. Agricultural products comprise ‘the gifts of the men’.

Tattooing

Samoa is the last of the Polynesian nations where traditional tattooing (tatau) is still widely practised (albeit against the wishes of some religious leaders). The traditional pe’a (male tattoo) covers the man’s body from the waist to the knees. Women can elect to receive a malu (female tattoo), but their designs cover only the thighs.

The skills and tools of the tufuga pe’a (tattoo artist) were traditionally passed down from father to son, and sharpened shark teeth or boar tusks were used to carve the intricate designs into the skin. It was believed that the man being tattooed must not be left alone in case the aitu (spirits) took him. In most cases the procedure takes at least a fortnight. Noncompletion would cause shame to the subject and his ‘aiga.

Environment

Current environmental issues faced by Samoa include soil erosion, overfishing (including dynamite fishing), deforestation and invasive species. As a low-lying nation with the majority of its population living along the coast, Samoa is – like all islands in the region – vulnerable to effects of climate change including rising sea levels, increase in cyclones, drought and coral damage.

Geography

Samoa lies in the heart of the vast South Pacific, 3700km southwest of Hawai’i. Tonga lies to the south, Fiji to the southwest, Tuvalu to the northwest and Tokelau to the north, while the Cook Islands are to the southeast.

The country has a total land area of 2934 sq km and is composed primarily of high, eroded volcanic islands with narrow coastal plains. It has two large islands: Savai’i (1700 sq km) and Upolu (1115 sq km). The nation’s highest peak, Mt Silisili on Savai’i, rises to 1866m. The small islands of Manono and Apolima lie in the 22km-wide Apolima Strait that separates Upolu and Savai’i. A few other tiny, uninhabited rocky islets and outcrops lie southeast of Upolu.

Ecology

The heights of Savai’i and Upolu are covered in temperate forest vegetation: tree ferns, grasses, wild coleus and epiphytic plants. The magnificent aoa (banyan tree) dominates the higher landscapes, while other areas are characterised by scrublands, marshes, pandanus forests and mangrove swamps. The rainforests of Samoa are a natural apothecary, home to some 75 known medicinal plant species.

Because Samoa is relatively remote, few animal species have managed to colonise it. The Lapita brought with them domestic pigs, dogs and chickens, as well as the ubiquitous Polynesian rat. But apart from two species of fruit bat (protected throughout the islands after being hunted close to extinction) and the small, sheath-tailed bat, mammals not introduced by humans are limited to the marine varieties. Whales, dolphins and porpoises migrate north and south through the islands, depending on the season.

Pili (skinks) and mo’o (geckos) can be seen everywhere, and various types of turtles visit the islands. The only land creature to beware of (besides the unloved and unlovely dogs) is the giant centipede, which packs a nasty bite.

Survival Guide

8Directory A–Z

Accommodation

It’s fair to say that accommodation options in Samoa are limited. There’s little budget accommodation outside the ubiquitous fale; and at the other end of the scale, only a handful of resorts qualify as truly luxurious. At both ends of the scale, many properties are overpriced given the quality offered. That said, much of the country’s accommodation occupies idyllic settings on the beautiful sands that fringe the islands – this meets the minimum requirements for most visitors.

An excellent source of accommodation information is the Samoa Hotels Association ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %30160; www.samoahotels.ws; Samoa Tourism Authority information fale, Beach Rd, Apia). It also acts as a booking agent, taking its fee from the provider, not the guest.

Beach fale are the most interesting budget option. Hotel, motel and resort accommodation ranges from rooms in slightly dilapidated buildings with cold-water showers to well-maintained rooms with all the mod cons. There’s sometimes access to a shared kitchen. Resorts tend to offer bungalow-style accommodation (sometimes called fale to sound exotic), with the bigger ones having swim-up cocktail bars and multiple restaurants.

Traditional village homestays can be organised through Samoa Village Stays (%22777; www.samoavillagestays.com; ST100 per person per night).

SLEEPING PRICE RANGES

The following price ranges refer to a double room or fale:

$ less than ST150

$$ ST150–300

$$$ more than ST300

THE BEACH FALE: SAMOA’S SIGNATURE ACCOMMODATION

The simple structures called fale come in a variety of styles. At their most simple and traditional, they’re just a wooden platform with poles supporting a thatched roof, surrounded by woven blinds for privacy. Woven sleeping mats are laid on the floor, topped by a mattress with sheets and a mosquito net. From this basic model, various degrees of luxury can be added: electric lights, ceiling fans, proper beds, wooden walls, lockable doors and decks. Avoid those with plastic-sheeting walls; they tend to flap around in the wind without letting much air through. Bathroom facilities are usually a communal block, with cold water being the norm. The price usually includes breakfast and often a set lunch and dinner as well.

Fale are usually priced per person, ranging from a reasonable ST70 (including meals) to well over ST200. As a result, couples or larger groups may find themselves paying much more than they would for a midrange hotel, for what is basically one step up from camping on the beach.

Activities

Visiting Samoa is less about seeing sights as doing things – particularly things that involve tropical beaches.

Diving

Samoa’s dive industry is far less developed than those of some of its neighbours, meaning there are some fantastic sites to explore, with access to a multitude of tropical fish and larger marine creatures, such as turtles and dolphins. Two-tank dives start from ST275 and PADI open-water courses are around ST1250.

Fishing

Samoan reefs and their fishing rights are owned by villagers, so you can’t just drop a line anywhere; seek permission first. If you’d like to go fishing with locals, inquire at your accommodation or speak to the pulenu’u of the village concerned.

Game fishing is becoming increasingly popular in the islands – in fact, Samoa has been rated one of the top 10 game-fishing destinations in the world. The Samoa International Game Fishing Tournament (www.sigfa.ws) heads out from Apia Harbour in late April.

Hiking

Samoa’s rugged coastal areas, sandy beaches, thick rainforests and volcanoes all invite exploration on foot. However, trails can quickly become obscured due to tangled tropical growth and half-hearted track maintenance. Combine this with the effects of heavy rain and there’s often a good chance of getting lost (or at the very least covering yourself in mud). For more remote treks, it pays to take a guide with you.

Costs vary enormously. Sometimes villagers will be happy to accompany you for nothing; at other times, they’ll be seeking goods as a reward (like cigarettes), but mostly they’ll be interested in cash.

Kayaking

Kayaks are perfect for pottering around lagoons; several accommodation providers have them available. Longer kayaking excursions can be organised through Outdoor Samoa.

Snorkelling & Swimming

The novice snorkeller will find Samoa’s waters fascinating and teeming with life. In places the reef has been damaged by cyclones, tsunamis and human contact, but will still reveal live corals and an abundance of colourful fish, often just a short paddle out from the beach. Some particularly good and accessible spots are Lalomanu, Namu’a and Palolo Deep Marine Reserve. Many places hire out snorkelling gear, but it’s worth bringing your own mask and snorkel.

The majority of Samoan beaches are great for splashing about in, but too shallow for satisfying swimming. Always ask permission from local villagers before using their beach.

Surfing

Powerful conditions, sharp reefs and offshore breaks that are difficult to access mean that surfing in Samoa is challenging, to say the very least, and probably one of the worst places in the world to learn the sport. While the surf can be magnificent at times, offering waves of a lifetime in glorious surroundings, conditions are generally difficult to assess, with some very dangerous situations awaiting the inexperienced or reckless. That said, the islands are an increasingly popular destination for experienced surfers. The wet season (November to April) brings swells from the north; the dry season (May to October) brings big swells from the south.

It’s best to hook up with a surfing outfit. They know all the best spots and provide boat transport to them and, perhaps more importantly, they have established relationships with local villagers and understand the culture – they know where it is and isn’t OK to surf.

Children

The Samoan climate (discounting long periods of heavy rain or the odd cyclone), warm waters and dearth of poisonous creatures make the islands a paradise for children. You’ll find that Samoans tend to lavish attention on very young children, and foreign toddlers will not be starved for attention or affection while visiting the islands.

Never leave your child unsupervised near beaches, reefs or on walking tracks, particularly those running along coastal cliffs (these are never fenced). Typically only the upmarket resorts provide cots, and only some car-rental agencies have car seats (and these can be of questionable quality), so it may pay to bring your own.

EATING PRICE RANGES

The following price ranges refer to a meal. Unless otherwise stated tax is included in the price.

$ less than ST20

$$ ST20–35

$$$ more than ST35

Embassies & Consulates

The following diplomatic missions are based in Apia.

Australian High CommissionHIGH COMMISSION

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %23411; www.embassy.gov.au/ws.html; Beach Rd; h9am-4.30pm Mon-Fri)

Canadian consular services are also provided here.

Chinese EmbassyEMBASSY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %22474; www.ws.chineseembassy.org/eng; Cross Island Rd, Vailima; h8.30am-noon & 2-4.30pm Mon-Fri)

New Zealand High CommissionHIGH COMMISSION

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %21711; www.nzembassy.com/samoa; Beach Rd; h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri)

US EmbassyEMBASSY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %21631; www.samoa.usembassy.gov; 5th fl, ACC Bldg, Apia; h9-11am Mon-Fri, phone enquiries to 5pm)

Emergency

AAmbulance 996

APolice 994

Festivals & Events

AIndependence Day celebrations (1–3 June) Festivities commemorating Samoa's 1962 independence from New Zealand.

ATeuila Festival (September) Apia reels in the tourists with canoe races, food and craft stalls, traditional dancing and a beauty pageant.

AWhite Sunday (second Sunday in October) The day that Samoan children rule the roost.

APalolo Rise (October/November) Marking the annual emergence of the edible reefworm.

ASamoana Jazz and Arts Festival (late October–early November) Hosts local and international artists, and jumps between Apia and American Samoa.

The first annual Upolu-Savaii swim (22km) event is due to take place in early April 2016.

Internet Access

Wi-fi in Samoa is offered by LavaSpot (www.lavaspot.ws) or Bluezone (www.bluezone.ws) hotspots on a pay-by-the-minute basis. You can buy time directly from their websites, or at your accommodation's front desk.

Hotspots are found at restaurants and hotels all around Apia and at some resorts around Upolu and Savai’i.

Note that web connections can drop out with frustrating frequency on these remote islands.

Maps

The free Jasons Samoa Visitor Map is updated annually and is widely available. It’s reasonably basic but should suit most visitors’ needs. They're also available to order online (free) at www.jasons.com/samoa.

Money

The tala (dollar), divided into 100 sene (cents), is the unit of currency in use in Samoa.

ATMs

Several branches of the ANZ and BSP banks are equipped with ATMs. Be aware that ATMs can be prone to running out of bills at the start of the weekend. Take plenty of cash with you (in small denominations) when you’re heading outside the bigger settlements.

Tipping

Not expected or encouraged, though it is acceptable for exceptional service at finer restaurants.

Opening Hours

On Sunday almost everything is closed, although ripples of activity appear in the evening. Markets normally get underway by about 6am; Maketi Fou in Apia is active more or less 24 hours a day.

Standard opening hours:

ABanks 9am to 3pm Monday to Friday, some open 8.30am to 12.30pm Saturday

ABars noon to 10pm or midnight

AGovernment offices 8am to 4.30pm Monday to Friday

ARestaurants 8am to 4pm and 6pm to 9pm

AShops 8am to 4.30pm Monday to Friday, 8am to noon Saturday (kiosks and convenience stores keep longer hours)

PRACTICALITIES

Language Samoan, English

Media The website of the country's main newspaper, the Samoa Observer (www.sobserver.ws), is a good resource for news relating to Samoa and the Pacific region.

Telephone

The country code for Samoa is 685. The nation does not use area codes.

The mobile phone providers in Samoa are Digicel (www.digicelsamoa.com) and Bluesky (www.blueskysamoa.ws). Prepay top-ups can be purchased from dozens of shops around both islands, including at the international airport. Reception is generally very good.

Tourist Information

The excellent, comprehensive website of the Samoa Tourism Authority (www.samoa.travel) has easy-to-browse information on activities, attractions, accommodation and useful organisations, plus an up-to-date events calendar.

Time

At midnight on 29 December 2011, Samoa officially switched to the west side of the International Date Line. This means its dates are the same as those of NZ, Australia and Asia. Local time is GMT/UTC plus 13 hours. Therefore, when it’s noon in Samoa, it’s 11am the same day in Auckland.

Samoa adopted daylight saving time in 2010. In early October the clocks go forward (to GMT/UTC plus 14 hours), returning to normal in late March.

Visas

A free, 60-day visitor permit is granted to all visitors on arrival in Samoa (except for American Samoans).

Samoan visitor permits may be extended by several weeks at a time by the country’s Immigration Office ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %20291; www.samoaimmigration.gov.ws; Convent St, Apia; h9am-4pm Mon-Fri). Take along your passport, wallet and two passport-sized photos and don’t make any other plans for the rest of the day. You may also need to have proof of hotel accommodation, onward transport and sufficient funds for your requested period of stay.

8Getting There & Away

Air

Aside from a few flights from American Samoa, all flights to Samoa arrive at Faleolo Airport, 35km west of Apia. Many arrive and depart in the early hours of the morning, but airport transfer and accommodation providers are well used to this. Fagali’i Airport ( GOOGLE MAP ; Fagali'i), on Apia’s eastern outskirts, is mainly used for flights to/from American Samoa.

Direct flights head to Samoa from American Samoa, Fiji, Auckland, Brisbane and Sydney. If you’re flying from the northern hemisphere, flights via Honolulu are likely to be the most straightforward.

Airlines that service Samoa include the following (phone numbers are local):

Air New Zealand (NZ; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %20825; www.airnz.com; cnr Convent & Vaea Sts, Apia; h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat)

Fiji Airways ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %22983; www.fijiairways.com; Saleufi St, Apia; h8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 8am-noon Sat)

Inter Island Airways (%42580; www.interislandair.com; Faleolo Airport)

Polynesian Airlines ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %21261; www.polynesianairlines.com; Beach Rd, Apia)

Virgin Australia (www.virginaustralia.com)

Sea

Ship

Samoa Shipping Corporation (%20935; www.samoashipping.com; one way adult/child ST12/6, vehicles from ST80) runs a car ferry/cargo ship (MV Lady Naomi) between Apia and Pago Pago (American Samoa) once a week. It departs from Apia every Thursday at 11pm; it departs Pago Pago the following day (also a Thursday, thanks to the bizarre dateline) at 4pm. The ferry takes foot passengers as well as vehicles. The journey takes about seven hours. Return deck fares are ST120/75 per adult/child. Note that American passport holders can only buy one-way tickets from Apia. All tickets must be purchased at least one day in advance: book online or ask your accommodation in Apia for assistance.

Cargo ships sail between Apia and remote Tokelau two to three times a month. Bookings for the 24- to 26-hour trip (return fares NZ$450) can be made in Apia at the Tokelau Apia Liaison Office ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %20822; www.tokelau.org.nz; Fugalei St, Apia; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri). You must obtain a Tokelau visa before booking.

Yacht

Between May and October (outside the cyclone season), South Pacific harbours swarm with yachts from around the world. Apia is the official entry point for private yachts visiting Samoa. In Savai’i, there are also anchorages at Fagamalo, Salelologa Wharf and Asau Harbour.

Before entering Apia's harbour, yachts must call Apia Port Control on VHF 16. Officially, yachties must contact each clearance department – customs, immigraton and quarantine – separately (see www.samoagovt.ws for directories); however, Port Control will most likely do it for you once you've made contact.

8Getting Around

Air

Samoa Air (%27905; www.samoaair.ws) operates charter flights between Upolu and Savai'i. Email them for bookings and fares.

Bicycle

Touring Upolu and Savai’i by bicycle is a scenic, reasonably relaxed option – we say ‘reasonably’ because aggressive dogs are a prevalent problem. The roads are generally in good condition and traffic is minimal. The major roads encircling the islands are sealed and relatively flat, but you’d need a sturdy mountain bike to tackle most of the trails to beaches and other coastal attractions. You can transport a bike between Samoa’s two main islands on the ferry.

A big challenge for cyclists is the heat. Even during the coolest months of the year (July, August and September), afternoon temperatures will still be high. Plan to avoid cycling long stretches in the heat of the day. Also bear in mind that buses are unlikely to be able to accommodate bicycles should you run out of leg power.

It shouldn’t be hard to track down a bike repairer if you really need one, but it’s best to bring your own repair kit, a decent lock and heavy-duty panniers. Some accommodation providers offer bike hire, but these are for day touring, not long-distance rides.

Boat

The ferry from Mulifanua Wharf regularly plies the waters between Upolu and Savai’i. Small boats leave from Cape Fatuosofia for Manono.

The Apia Yacht Club is a good place to share information on sailing around the islands over a cold beer.

Bus

Travelling by public bus in Samoa is an experience in itself. The vibrantly painted, wooden-seated vehicles (more often than not blasting Samoan pop music at deafening volumes) each have their own character. Drivers are often as eccentric as the vehicles, and services operate completely at their whim: if a driver feels like knocking off at 1pm, he does, and passengers counting on the service are left stranded. Never rely on a bus after about 2pm. Buses are also scarce on Saturday afternoon and often only cater to church services on Sunday.

All buses prominently display the name of their destination in the front window. To stop a bus, wave your hand and arm, palm down. To get off, either knock on the ceiling or clap loudly. Fares are paid to the driver – try to have as near to the exact change as possible.

Although most visitors don’t notice it at first, there is a seating hierarchy on Samoan buses. Unmarried women normally sit together, while foreigners and older people must have a seat and sit near the front of the bus. Don’t worry about arranging this yourself – the locals will see to it that everything is sorted out. The way in which Samoans stack themselves on top of each other on crowded buses without losing any dignity is akin to a social miracle.

Car

Getting around by car in Samoa is quite straightforward. The coastal roads on Upolu and Savai'i are sealed; most of the other main roads are pretty good. A 4WD will make trips down rough, unsealed side roads more comfortable, but nearly all of these can be tackled in a high-clearance 2WD (unless there's been heavy rain).

Petrol stations are few and far between on both islands.

Driving Licence

Visitors to Samoa need to obtain a temporary driving licence. Most car-hire companies issue these, or you can call into the Land Transport Authority (LTA; GOOGLE MAP ; %26740; www.lta.gov.ws; Off Vaitele St (opposite Vailima Brewery), Vaitele; licence per month ST21; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri) in Apia. You’ll need to present a valid overseas driving licence.

Hire

There are dozens of car-hire agencies in Samoa and, on top of this, some of the larger accommodation providers also hire vehicles. Most of the agencies are in or around Apia and the airport, and prices can be quite competitive. Note that you can usually take hire cars from Upolu over to Savai’i and back, but cars hired on Savai’i cannot be taken to Upolu. It’s sometimes cheaper to hire in Upolu even given the ferry fee, especially if you obtain a discount for a longer booking.

When hiring a vehicle, check for any damage or scratches and note everything on the rental agreement, lest you be held liable for damage when the car is returned. Furthermore, fend off requests to leave your passport or a cash deposit against possible damages. Many places will require a credit card pre-authorisation by way of a deposit and it’s usual to pay in advance.

Prices start at around ST110 per day, with discounts offered for longer-term rentals.

Insurance

It’s essential to have your hire car covered by insurance as repair costs are extremely high in Samoa. Insurance costs aren’t always included in the price of a quote, so always double-check this.

Road Rules

In 2009 the Samoan government decided to change the law from driving on the right-hand side of the road to the left-hand side. Still, don’t be surprised to see a mixture of left-hand-drive and right-hand-drive vehicles on the road. When renting a car, insist on a right-hand drive vehicle. The speed limit within central Apia and through adjacent villages is 40km/h; outside populated areas it’s 56km/h.

Local Transport

On Upolu, taxis can be a useful transport option for day tripping; however, the same can’t be said for taxis on Savai’i, which are only convenient for short trips. It always pays to have the correct change as drivers can be (perhaps too conveniently) relied upon not to have any.

If you find a driver you hit it off well with early on, it can be worth getting their telephone number and using their service during your stay. You may be able to negotiate a decent day rate that compares favourably with a hire car.

Local buses are cheap and run all over the islands frequently (apart from on Sundays).