1 Cited by Driver, The British at Table, p. 77.
2 Jonathan Meades, ‘Goodness gracious!’, The Times, 21 April 2001.
3 Iqbal Wahhab and Emma Brockes, ‘Spice …the final frontier’, The Guardian, 4 November 1999.
4 Sharma (ed.), Rampal, p. 142.
5 Appadurai, ‘How to make a national cuisine’, p. 18.
6 Conlon, ‘Dining out’, p. 114.
7 Buchanan, Journey from Madras, I, pp. 101–2. See also Rao, ‘Conservatism and change’, pp. 127–9; Lewis, Village Life, p. 267.
8 Gardener, ‘Desh-bidesh’, p. 6.
9 Phillip Ray in conversation with the author.
10 Jubi and Hafeez Noorani, ‘A unique culinary culture’, The Taj Magazine, 11, 1 (1982).
11 Cantile, ‘The moral significance of food’, pp. 42–5.
12 Achaya, ‘Indian food concepts’, pp. 221–2.
13 Marriott and Inden, ‘Toward an ethnosociology’, p. 233.
14 Marriott, ‘Caste ranking and food transactions’, p. 134.
15 Ibid., pp. 133–63.
16 Rao, ‘Introduction and overview’, p. 3; Beck, The Experience of Poverty, pp. 137–42.
17 Rao (ed.), Encyclopaedia of Indian Medicine, IV, pp. 3–8, 45–8.
18 Zimmermann, The Jungle, p. 24.
19 Sharma (ed.), Caraka-samhita, I, pp. 44–5; Sharma, Social and Cultural History, p. 100; Achaya, Indian Food, p. 81.
20 Storer, ‘Hot and cold food beliefs’, p. 34.
21 Chattopadhyaya, ‘Case for a critical analysis’, p. 217.
22 Zimmermann, The Jungle, p. 126.
1 Manrique, Travels, II, pp. 213–20.
2 Ibid., pp. 207–13.
3 Madan, Non-Renunciation, p. 143; Sethi, ‘The creation of religious identities’, pp. 16, 202–6; Richards, The Mughal Empire, pp. 20, 34.
4 Thackston (ed.), The Baburnama, pp. 332, 334, 350–1, 359–60.
5 Ikram, Muslim Civilization, p. 136.
6 Thackston (ed.), The Baburnama, p. 350.
7 Peterson, ‘The Arab influence’, pp. 321–2.
8 Cunningham Papers, p. 397.
9 Vambery, Sketches, pp. 118–19.
10 Schuyler, Turkistan, p. 125.
11 Sastri, ‘The Chalukyas of Kalyani’, pp. 370, 453.
12 Zimmermann, The Jungle, pp. 30, 55–61, 98, 170, 185; Sharma (ed.), Caraka-samhita, I, p. 222.
13 Sastri, ‘The Chalukyas of Kalyani’, p. 453; Arundhati, Royal Life, pp. 113–30.
14 Saletore, Social and Political Life, pp. 310–11.
15 Arundhati, Royal Life, p. 125.
16 Prasad, ‘Meat-eating’, p. 290.
17 Keay, India, pp. 96-7.
18 Majumdar, The Age of Imperial Unity, pp. 73–4.
19 Murti et al., Edicts of As’oka, pp. 3, 9, 11, 105, 107.
20 Wadley, Struggling with Destiny, p. 45.
21 Jaffrey, A Taste of India, p. 57.
22 Carstairs, The Twice Born, p. 109.
23 Tavernier, Travels, I, p. 38; Valle, The Travels, p. 294.
24 Tavernier, Travels, I, pp. 311, 326; Hamilton, A New Account, p. 96.
25 Chattopadhyaya, ‘Case for a critical analysis’, pp. 212–13.
26 Jha, The Myth of the Holy Cow, pp. 30–7, 95–8; Brockington, The Sanskrit Epics, pp. 20–1, 197.
27 Achaya, Indian Food, p. 55; Jha, The Myth of the Holy Cow, pp. 61–89.
28 Manucci, Storia do Mogor, pp. 42–3.
29 Peterson, ‘The Arab influence’, p. 321.
30 Khare, ‘The Indian Meal’, pp. 162–4.
31 Thackston (ed.), The Baburnama, pp. 367–8.
32 Eraly, The Last Spring, p. 108.
33 Ahsan, Social Life, p. 152.
34 Quereshi, The Muslim Community, p. 31; Ahsan, Social Life, p. 155.
35 Tavernier, Travels, I, p. 41.
36 Zubaida, ‘Rice’, pp. 92–4; Fragner, ‘From the Caucasus’, pp. 57–9.
37 Jaffrey, Madhur Jaffrey’s Indian Cookery, p. 154.
38 Fryer, A New Account, III, p. 240.
39 Burton, Savouring, p. 197.
40 Richards, The Mughal Empire, p. 17; Dalrymple, ‘That’s magic’, The Guardian Review, 1 January 2003, p. 18.
41 Allami, Ain-i-Akbari, I, p. 60.
42 Bernier, Travels, p. 287; Richards, The Mughal Empire, pp. 190–1, 195; Kulshreshtha, The Development of Trade, pp. 184–5.
43 www.menumagazine.co.uk/asafoetida.htm; Fryer, A New Account I, p. 286.
44 Singh, Indian Cooking, p. 25; Thirty-Five Years’ Resident, The Indian Cookery Book, p. 16.
45 Allami, Ain-i-Akbari, I, p. 61.
46 Ibid., pp. 59, 64.
47 Eraly, The Last Spring, pp. 195, 219; Richards, The Mughal Empire, p. 47.
48 Eraly, The Last Spring, p. 165.
49 Beveridge (ed.), The Tuzuki-i-Jahangiri, p. 184; Eraly, The Last Spring, p. 239; Srivastava, Social Life, p. 2.
50 Eraly, The Last Spring, p. 169.
51 Tavernier, Travels, I, 95–6.
52 Lal, Twilight, pp. 276–7; David, Harvest, pp. 246–8.
53 Goody, Cooking, p. 98.
54 Manrique, Travels, II, pp. 218–19.
55 Terry, A Voyage to East-India, pp. 206–11.
56 Eraly, The Last Spring, pp. 274, 312.
57 Beveridge (ed.), The Tuzuki-i-Jahangiri, p. 215.
58 Manrique, Travels, I, pp. 65–6.
59 Manucci, Storia do Mogor, p. 68.
60 Chapman, The New Curry Bible, p. 111; Jaffrey, A Taste of India, pp. 128–9.
61 Thackston (ed.), The Baburnama, pp. 423, 445.
62 Foltz, Mughal India and Central Asia, p. 7.
63 Beveridge (ed.), The Tuzuki-i-Jahangiri : I, pp. 116, 435; II, p. 101.
64 See, for example, ibid., I, p. 116.
65 Bernier, Travels, p. 284.
66 Foster (ed.), The Embassy of Sir Thomas Roe, p. 152.
67 Manucci, Storia do Mogor, pp. 37–8
68 Thackston (ed.), The Baburnama, p. 343; Beveridge (ed.), The Tuzuki-i-Jahangiri, p. 116.
69 Eraly, The Last Spring, p. 337.
70 Ibid., p. 322.
71 Foster (ed.), The Embassy of Sir Thomas Roe, pp. 99, 190, 240, 324–5.
72 Hawkins, The Hawkins Voyages, p. 437.
73 Beveridge (ed.), The Tuzuki-i-Jahangiri, I, pp. 307–10.
74 Manucci, Storia do Mogor, II, p. 5.
75 Eraly, The Last Spring, pp. 303, 307.
76 Panjabi, 50 Great Curries, p. 88.
77 Manrique, Travels, II, pp. 186–8. Reals were Spanish pieces of eight.
78 Eraly, The Last Spring, p. 312.
79 Keay, The Honourable Company, pp. 115–16.
80 Manucci, Storia do Mogor, II, pp. 5–6.
81 Sen (ed.), Indian Travels of Thevenot and Careri, p. 236; Eraly, The Last Spring, p. 393; Srivastava, Social Life, p. 4.
1 Dalby, Dangerous Tastes, p. 89.
2 Tavernier, Travels, II, p. 11.
3 Pharmacopoeia, pp. 172, 177.
4 Dalby, Dangerous Tastes, p. 91.
5 Peterson, ‘The Arab influence’, pp. 317, 319–20; Scully, The Art of Cookery, p. 84; Sass, ‘The preference’, pp. 254–7; Prasad, Early English Travellers, p. xxxii; Laurioux, ‘Spices in the medieval diet’, pp. 46–7, 51, 59.
6 Scully, The Art of Cookery, p. 30; Laurioux, ‘Spices in the medieval diet’, pp. 56–9.
7 Cohen, The Four Voyages, pp. 11–17, 121; Dalby, Dangerous Tastes, pp. 148, 150.
8 Dalby, Dangerous Tastes, p. 148.
9 Laudan and Pilcher, ‘Chilies, chocolate and race’, p. 65.
10 Andrews, ‘The peripatetic chilli’, p. 92.
11 Subrahmanyam, The Career and Legend, pp. 129–38.
12 Silverberg, The Longest Voyage, pp. 58–9.
13 Subrahmanyam, The Portuguese Empire, p. 63.
14 Pearson, The Portuguese, pp. 30–2.
15 Burton, The Raj at Table, p. 6.
16 Hyman and Hyman, ‘Long pepper’, pp. 50–2.
17 Watt, A Dictionary, II, p. 135.
18 Achaya, Indian Food, p. 227; Watt, A Dictionary, II, p. 137.
19 Jaffrey, A Taste of India, p. 220.
20 Andrews, ‘The peripatetic chilli’, pp. 92–3.
21 Linschoten, The Voyage, I, pp. 207-8.
22 Sen (ed.), Indian Travels of Thevenot and Careri, p. 162.
23 Fryer, A New Account, II, pp. 27–8; Linschoten, The Voyage, I, pp. 205, 212–13.
24 Linschoten, The Voyage, I, pp. 67–8.
25 Ibid., pp. 222, 228–30; Subrahmanyam, The Portuguese Empire, p. 225.
26 Fryer, A New Account, I, p. 192.
27 Linschoten, The Voyage, I, p. 193.
28 Ibid., pp. 219–22. For the corruption of Portuguese officers of all ranks, see Xavier, Goa, pp. 214–15.
29 Fryer, A New Account, II, p. 16.
30 Pearson, ‘The people and politics’, p. 10; Subrahmanyam, The Portuguese Empire, p. 228.
31 Boxer, Race Relations, pp. 60–1.
32 Linschoten, The Voyage, I, pp. 207–8, 212.
33 Fryer, A New Account, II, pp. 27–8,
34 Laudan and Pilcher, ‘Chilies, chocolate and race’, p. 65.
35 Fitch, in Foster (ed.), Early Travels, p. 46.
36 M. Albertina Saldanha, ‘Goan cuisine. How good is it?’, Goa Today, XXIII, 12 (July 1989), p. 22; Mundy, The Travels, p. 59.
37 Coelho and Sen, ‘Cooking the Goan way’, p. 150.
38 This was Richard Burton, later to become famous as the first white man to enter Mecca, and as the translator of the Arabian Nights into English. Burton, Goa, p. 104.
39 Laudan and Pilcher, ‘Chilies, chocolate and race’, p. 66.
40 Scully, The Art of Cookery, p. 136.
41 Larsen, Faces, p. 118.
42 Mandelslo, The Voyages and Travels, p. 79.
43 Sen, ‘The Portuguese influence’, p. 290.
44 Bernier, Travels, II, p. 182.
45 Burton, Goa, p. 98.
46 M. Albertina Saldanha, ‘Goan cuisine. How good is it?’, Goa Today, XXIII, 12 (July 1989), p. 22.
47 Coelho and Sen, ‘Cooking the Goan way’, p. 153; Cabral, ‘Of Goa and gourmets’, The Taj Magazine, 26, 1 (1997); Laudan, The Food of Paradise, pp. 88–9.
48 Tavernier, Travels, 1, p. 150; The Saraswat Brahmans who did not convert to Christianity developed a vegetarian Goan cuisine.
49 Robinson, ‘The construction of Goan interculturality’, pp. 290–1.
50 Manucci, Storia do Mogor, pp. 180–1.
51 Hamilton, A New Account, p. 143.
52 Richards, Goa, p. 25; Priolkar, The Goa Inquisition, pp. 116–17.
53 Subrahmanyam, The Portuguese Empire, p. 231.
54 Cited by Priolkar, The Goa Inquisition, p. 55.
55 Souza, Goa to Me, p. 87; Gracias, ‘The impact’, p. 48; Lopes, ‘Conversion’, pp. 69, 72.
56 Scammell, ‘The pillars of empire’, pp. 477–87; Subrahmanyam, The Portuguese Empire, p. 231.
57 Priolkar, The Goa Inquisition, p. 104; Axelrod and Fuerch, ‘Flight of the deities’, pp. 412–13.
58 Axelrod and Fuerch, ‘Flight of the deities’, pp. 393–4.
59 Ibid., p. 387.
60 Borges, ‘A lasting cultural legacy’, p. 55.
61 Robinson, ‘The construction of Goan interculturality’, p. 309.
62 Burton, Goa, pp. 104–5; Axelrod and Fuerch, ‘Flight of the deities’, p. 410.
63 Robinson, ‘The construction of Goan interculturality’, p. 310.
64 Richards, Goa, pp. 4–5, 71.
65 Sen, ‘The Portuguese influence’, p. 293.
66 Scully, The Art of Cookery, p. 112.
67 Dawe, The Wife’s Help, p. 62.
68 Coelho and Sen, ‘Cooking the Goan way’, p. 151; M. Albertina Saldanha, ‘Goan cuisine. How good is it?’, Goa Today, XXIII, 12 (July 1989), p. 13.
69 Cited by Collins, The Pineapple, pp. 9–17.
70 Beveridge (ed.), The Tuzuki-I-Jahangiri, I, pp. 215, 350.
71 Nichter, ‘Modes of food classification’, pp. 195–6.
72 Maciel, Goan Cookery Book, p. 9.
73 Eraly, The Last Spring, pp. 434, 495.
74 Gordon, Marathas, p. 35.
75 Fryer, A New Account, II, pp. 67–8; Ikram, Muslim Civilisation, pp. 196–7, 206.
76 C. Y. Gopinath, ‘So what’s for dinner then?’, The Taj Magazine, 18, 3 (1990).
77 Richards, Goa, pp. 33–4.
78 Rao, Eighteenth Century Deccan, pp. 227–8.
1 Ovington, A Voyage, pp. 394–8.
2 Farrington, Trading Places, pp. 16–20, 39; Richards, The Mughal Empire, pp. 196–9.
3 Foster (ed.), Early Travels, pp. 60–70.
4 Foster (ed.), The Embassy of Sir Thomas Roe, p. xxiv; Terry, A Voyage to East-India, pp. 211, 218.
5 Farrington, Trading Places, p. 69.
6 Bayly (ed.), The Raj, p. 68.
7 Ovington, A Voyage, p. 141; Fryer, A New Account, I, p. 179; Burnell, Bombay, pp. 20–1.
8 Wilson (ed.), The Early Annals, p. 208.
9 Richards, The Mughal Empire, p. 201; Keay, The Honourable, pp. 134–5.
10 Mandelslo, The Voyages and Travels, p. 13; Anderson, The English, p. 48; Ovington, A Voyage, pp. 237–8.
11 Oxford English Dictionary.
12 Ramaswami (ed.), The Chief Secretary, p. 79.
13 Terry, A Voyage, p. 107.
14 Manucci, Storia do Mogor, I, pp. 62–3; Major (ed.), India in the Fifteenth Century, p. 32.
15 Ovington, A Voyage, p. 397.
16 Fryer, A New Account, I, p. 177.
17 Terry, A Voyage, p. 94.
18 Laudan, ‘The birth of the modern diet’, p. 62.
19 Scully, The Art of Cookery, p. 207.
20 Appadurai, ‘How to make a national cuisine’, p. 13.
21 Stein, Peasant State and Society, pp. 144–5.
22 Breckenridge, ‘Food politics and pilgrimage’, p. 30.
23 Hultzsch, South Indian Inscriptions, p. 189.
24 Breckenridge, ‘Food politics and pilgrimage’, pp. 32, 37–40; Jaffrey, A Taste of India, pp. 197–8.
25 Richards, The Mughal Empire, p. 190.
26 Appadurai, Worship and Conflict, p. 37.
27 Hamilton, A New Account, p. 211.
28 Achaya, Indian Food, p. 68.
29 Jaffrey, A Taste of India, p. 220.
30 Aziz, ‘Glimpses’, pp. 170–1; Jaffrey, A Taste of India, pp. 170–1.
31 Sharar, Lucknow, p. 157.
32 Hasan, Palace Culture, pp. 4–5.
33 Fisher, A Clash of Cultures, pp. 71–6.
34 Sharar, Lucknow, pp. 155–6.
35 ‘Oude Accounts etc. 1777–83’, Warren Hastings Papers, p. 26.
36 Hasan, Palace Culture, pp. 4–5.
37 Panjabi, 50 Great Curries, p. 25.
39 Sharar, Lucknow, pp. 157–8.
40 Cited by Allen (ed.), Food, p. 239.
41 Sharar, Lucknow, pp. 158–62.
42 Praveen Talha, ‘Nemat-e-Dastarkhwan. Bounty of the table’, The Taj Magazine, 23, 1 (1994).
43 Llewellyn-Jones, Engaging Scoundrels, p. 12.
44 Allami, Ain-i-Akbari, I, pp. 62–3.
45 Llewellyn-Jones, Engaging Scoundrels, p. 44.
46 Ali, Observations on the Mussulmauns of India, I, p. 38.
47 Sharar, Lucknow, p. 161; Singh, Mrs Balbir Singh’s Indian Cookery, p. 132.
48 Ali, Observations on the Mussulmauns of India : I, pp. 324–5; II, p. 67
1 Parks, Wanderings, I, pp. 25, 46–7; Williamson, The East-India Vade-Mecum: I, pp. 213–14, 238–9; II, p. 180; Campbell, Excursions, I, p. 68; Graham, Journal of a Residence, p. 30.
2 [Hobbes], Reminiscences, p. 14.
3 Richard Burton, cited by Brodie, The Devil Drives, p. 51.
4 Young, Early Victorian England, pp. 104–8.
5 Macnabb Collection, / 4, f. 77; Fenton, The Journal, p. 53.
6 Cordiner, A Voyage to India, p. 110; Graham, Journal of a Residence, p. 30.
7 Roberts, Scenes and Characteristics, I, p. 76.
8 Spencer, ‘The British Isles’, pp. 1222–3; Fine et al., Consumption in the Age of Affluence, p. 203.
9 Roberts, Scenes and Characteristics, I, p. 72; Elizabeth Gwillim, Gwillim Papers/1, f. 48.
10 F. J. Shore, Futtyghur, 23 July 1820, Frederick John Shore Collection/5–8.
11 Elizabeth Gwillim, Gwillim Papers/1, ff. 37–8.
12 Fane, Five Years, I, p. 29.
13 Valle, The Travels, II, p. 328.
14 Some food writers suggest that the word comes from kahree, or karhi, the name for a northern Indian dish made with chickpea flour and yogurt. But none of the seventeenth-century writers describe anything that sounds like this dish when they use the words caril, carree or curry. They clearly use them to refer to Indian stews or ragouts in general.
15 Edmunds, Curries, p. 10.
16 Tandon, Punjabi Century, p. 88.
17 Nichter, ‘Modes of food classification’, p. 200.
18 Thirty-Five Years’ Resident, The Indian Cookery Book, p. 22.
19 McCosh, Medical Advice, p. 83.
20 Dawe, The Wife’s Help, p. 59.
21 In 1923, C. Lewis recommended for tiffin ‘a curry with as many concomitants as are available, such as Bombay duck, Popadums, chutney, minced cocoanut, etc. Anyone who has lived on the Madras side or in Ceylon will know how the additions improve a curry. At the Galle Face in Colombo we have counted as many as 16 different side dishes served with it’ (Lewis, Culinary Notes, p. 59).
22 Williamson, The East-India Vade-Mecum, II, p. 128.
23 [Palmer], Indian Cookery, p. 184.
24 Burton, Goa, p. 296.
25 Campbell, Excursions, I, p. 68.
26 Burton, The Raj at Table, p. 105.
27 Jaffrey, A Taste of India, p. 87; Panjabi, 50 Great Curries, pp. 98–9; Behram Contractor, ‘Eating-out with a difference’, The Taj Magazine, 11, 2 (1982).
28 Roberts, Scenes and Characteristics, I, p. 153.
29 Burton, Goa, p. 251.
30 Mandelslo, The Voyages and Travels, pp. 19–20.
31 Eden, Up the Country, p. xiv.
32 Flora Holman, Holman Paper, p. 13.
33 Emily Sandys, 26 August 1854, Stuart Papers.
34 Tayler, Thirty-Eight Years, pp. 394–5.
35 Burton, The Raj at Table, pp. 113–14.
36 Kaye (ed.), The Golden Calm, p. 120.
37 A Thirty-Five Years’ Resident, The Indian Cookery Book, p. 20.
38 Roberts, Scenes and Characteristics, I, p. 51.
39 Burton, The Raj at Table, pp. 126–9.
40 Cited by ibid., p. 121.
1 Fisher, The First Indian Author, pp. 251–66.
2 Hunter, The Thackerays, pp. 85–99.
3 Fisher, The First Indian Author, p. 260; Holzman, The Nabobs, p. 90.
4 Salter, The Asiatic, pp. 28–31.
5 Visram, Ayahs, p. 15; Salter, The East, p. 38; Salter, The Asiatic, pp. 25, 69–70, 116.
6 24 October 1813, Spilsbury Collection / 1.
7 Shade, A Narrative, p. 27.
8 Geddes, The Laird’s Kitchen, pp. 71–9, 100.
9 Cited by Grove, Curry, Spice & All Things Nice.
10 ‘Indian Cookery’, pp. iii–iv.
11 Laudan, ‘Birth of the modern diet’, pp. 62–7; Freeman, Mutton and Oysters, pp. 69–71; Goody, Food and Love, pp. 130–1.
12 Spencer, The Heretic’s Feast, p. 280; Twigg, ‘Vegetarianism’, p. 24.
13 C. P. Moritz cited by Palmer, Moveable Feasts, pp. 12–13; Laurioux, ‘Spices in the medieval diet’, pp. 48, 66; Peterson, ‘The Arab influence’, p. 333.
14 Cited by Davis, Fairs, p. 199.
15 White, Indian Cookery, p. 3.
16 Edmunds, Curries, p. 9; White, Indian Cookery, p. 6.
17 Punch, IX (1845).
18 Cited by Chaudhuri, ‘Shawls’, p. 246.
19 Geddes, The Laird’s Kitchen, p. 100.
20 Freeman, Mutton and Oysters, p. 125.
21 See Dawe, The Wife’s Help, p. 94; [Palmer], Indian Cookery, p. 188.
22 Cited by Narayan, ‘Eating cultures’, p. 82.
23 Freeman, Mutton and Oysters, p. 137; Cox (ed.), Mr and Mrs Charles Dickens, pp. 19, 39.
24 Chaudhuri, ‘Shawls’, p. 239.
25 Haldar, The English Diary, p. 85.
26 Terry, Indian Cookery, pp. 16–17, 23–4.
27 Panjabi, 50 Great Curries, p. 32.
28 Terry, Indian Cookery, pp. 16–17.
29 Glasse, The Art of Cookery (1748 edn), p. 101.
30 Francatelli, The Modern Cook, pp. 12–13, 20, 300; Ketab, Indian Dishes for English Tables; Chaudhuri, ‘Shawls’, p. 244.
31 Chaudhuri, ‘Shawls’, p. 244.
32 Ibid., p. 241.
33 Terry, Indian Cookery, endpieces; Santiagoe, The Curry Cook’s Assistant, p. xii (kindly lent to me by Jennifer Donkin).
34 du Maurier, Rebecca, p. 309.
35 White, Indian Cookery, p. 9.
36 Jaffrey, A Taste of India, pp. 82, 130.
37 Panjabi, 50 Great Curries, pp. 24, 32.
38 Katona-Apte and Apte, ‘The role of food’, p. 347.
39 Jaffrey, An Invitation, p. 18.
40 Petit, The Home Book, p. 24; Good Housekeeping’s Casseroles and Curries, pp. 19–23.
41 Edmunds, Curries, p. 52.
42 Allen (ed.), Food, p. 29.
43 Acton, Modern Cookery, pp. 343–4.
44 Santiagoe, The Curry Cook’s Assistant, p. ix.
45 Terry, Indian Cookery, pp. 5–7; Beeton, Mrs Beeton’s Book, p. 90; Acton, Modern Cookery, pp. 42–3.
46 Kingston, ‘The taste of India’, p. 45.
47 Valle, The Travels, II, p. 383.
48 Fryer, A New Account, I, p. 297.
49 David, Spices, p. 10.
50 Glasse, The Art of Cookery (1983 edn), p. 168.
51 Glasse, The Art of Cookery, (1748 edn), p. 240.
52 Smith, The Tomato, pp. 18–20.
53 Cited by Burton, The Raj at Table, p. 121; Wright, The Road from Aston Cross, p. 31.
54 David, Spices, p. 12.
55 MacKenzie, Propaganda, p. 97.
56 Erickson, Her Little Majesty, pp. 239–47; Glasheen, The Secret People, p. 158.
57 Hartley, Eighty-Eight Not Out, p. 71.
58 Ibid., pp. 75–8.
59 Gregory, ‘Staging British India’, pp. 152–64.
60 Santiagoe, The Curry Cook’s Assistant, p. 68.
61 Tollinton Papers.
62 The Times British Empire Exhibition Special Section, No. 1, 23 April 1924, pp. 52–4.
63 [Palmer], Indian Cookery, pp. 17–18.
1 John William Laing, 28 October 1873, Vol. I, Laing Diaries.
2 ‘Culinary Jottings for Madras by Wyvern. 1878’, The Calcutta Review, 68 (1879), p. xiv.
3 Stocqueler, The Hand-book, pp. 202–3.
4 Ibid., p. 207.
5 ‘Culinary Jottings for Madras by Wyvern. 1878’, The Calcutta Review, 68 (1879), p. xiii.
6 Kenny-Herbert, Wyvern’s Indian Cookery Book; Franklin, The Wife’s Cookery Book.
7 Masters, Bugles, p. 157; Annie Winifred Brown.
8 The army officer’s son in conversation with the author.
9 Indian Cookery ‘Local’, pp. 41–2.
10 The Englishwoman in India, p. 45; Cunningham Papers, p. 515.
11 Lady Minto’s Recipe Book, p. 85.
12 What to Tell the Cook; A Friend in Need, published by the Ladies’ Committee F.I.N.S. Women’s Workshop, and kindly lent to me by Maureen Nunn, also printed its recipes in English and Tamil and was much used by the wife of a coffee planter living in the Coorg Hills of southern India in the 1930s.
13 Dench Papers, p. 24.
14 Dutton, Life in India, p. 57.
15 Williamson, The East-India Vade-Mecum, I, p. 238.
16 Hall Papers.
17 Graham, Journal of a Residence, p. 30; W. W. Hooper, ‘Kitchen servants c.1880’, Photo 447/3(56).
18 Lyall Collection, / 2, p. 159; 21 March 1926, Maxwell Papers, Box XVII.
19 Bayley Papers, p. 6.
20 Abraham Caldecott, Letter 14, September 1783, Caldecott Collection.
21 Tavernier, Travels, I, 109.
22 Parks, Wanderings, I p. 32.
23 Deane, A Tour, pp. 15–16, 203.
24 William Dalrymple kindly supplied the information on Kirkpatrick and potatoes; Watt, A Dictionary, VI, III, p. 272; Sen, ‘The Portuguese influence’, p. 296. See also: Dalrymple, White Mughals, p. 330; Salaman, The History and Social Influence, p. 445; Achaya, Indian Food, p. 226.
25 Watt, A Dictionary, V, p. 100. See also: David, Spices, p. 84; Rick, ‘The tomato’, p. 67; Davidson, ‘Europeans’ wary encounter’, pp. 7–9; Banerji, Bengali Cooking, p. 83.
26 Banerji, Bengali Cooking, p. 83.
27 Gandhi, The Collected Works, p. 40.
28 Thirty-Five Years’ Resident, The Indian Cookery Book, pp. 4–8.
29 Mary Symonds, Gwillim Papers / 1.
30 Roberts, Scenes and Characteristics, pp. 90–102.
31 Parks, Wanderings, II, p. 230.
32 A Lady Resident, The Englishwoman in India, p. 33.
33 Blanchard, Yesterday and Today, p. 45.
34 Campbell-Martin, Out in the Mid-day Sun, p. 52; Bourne Papers, pp. 71–2.
35 Hall Papers.
36 Brennan, Curries and Bugles, p. 153.
37 Tandon, Beyond Punjab, p. 47.
38 A Lady Resident, The Englishwoman in India, p. 45.
39 Lawrence, Indian Embers, p. 40.
40 Dench Papers, p. 50.
41 Champion Papers, p. 81.
42 The Art of Ceylon and Indian Cookery, p. 71.
43 Tandon, Punjabi Century, pp. 177–8.
44 Llewellyn-Jones, Engaging Scoundrels, pp. 12, 32–3, 44–5, 73.
45 Weeden, A Year, pp. 29–30, 58.
46 Rau and Devi, A Princess Remembers, p. 20.
47 Ibid., pp. 34, 52, 60.
48 Tandon, Beyond Punjab, p. 67.
49 Deane, A Tour, pp. 101–2, 107–8.
50 Fitzroy Collection, 8b, pp. 1, 158, 162.
51 Cited by Brown, Modern India, p. 75.
52 Misra, The Indian Middle Classes, pp. 153–4; Heber, Narrative, p. 291.
53 Fryer, A New Account, II, p. 113.
54 Deane, A Tour, pp. 11–12.
55 Jaffrey, A Taste of India, pp. 86–7.
56 Oman, The Brahmans, p. 40.
57 Misra, The Indian Middle Classes, p. 200.
58 Raychaudhuri, Europe Reconsidered, p. 62.
59 Sinha, Colonial Masculinity, p. 22.
60 Hay, ‘Between two worlds’, p. 308; Fiddes, Meat, p. 67.
61 Cited by Fiddes, Meat, p. 67.
62 Hunt, Gandhi, pp. 5–6, 18.
63 Ibid., p. 9.
64 Tandon, Punjabi Century, p. 202.
65 Gandhi, The Collected Works, pp. 80, 93, 96.
66 Twigg, ‘Vegetarianism’, pp. 22–6.
67 Malabari, The Indian Eye, pp. 45–7.
68 Lahiri, Indians in Britain, p. 156.
69 Tandon, Punjabi Century, p. 211.
70 Tandon, Beyond Punjab, p. 69.
71 Oman, The Brahmans, p. 41.
72 Lawrence, Indian Embers, p. 42.
73 Fitzroy Collection, 8b, pp. 46–7, 53.
74 Tandon, Beyond Punjab, pp. 97–8.
75 Rasul, Bengal to Birmingham, p. 8.
76 These can be seen at the house where he was assassinated in New Delhi which has a display of his personal possessions at the time of his death.
77 Bayley Papers, p. 3.
78 ‘Chota Sahib’, Camp Recipes, p. 53; Maureen Nunn in conversation with the author.
79 Freeman, Mutton and Oysters, p. 93.
80 Godden, A Time to Dance, p. 98; Margaret Orr Deas, Mrs Randhawa and Maureen Nunn in conversation with the author.
81 Rau and Devi, A Princess Remembers, p. 16.
82 Fus. H. Simons, ‘Army Cookery Notebook, 1944’; Eric Warren in correspondence with the author.
83 Mass Observation Winter Directive of 1982; Burton, The Raj at Table, pp. 19–20.
84 Margaret Orr Deas in conversation with the author.
85 Panjabi, 50 Great Curries, pp. 8–9.
86 Sen, ‘The Portuguese influence’, p. 293.
87 Jo Sharma in correspondence with the author.
88 Dalrymple, City of Djinns, p. 135; author’s own meal at the Fairlawn Hotel, Sudder Street, Calcutta.
89 Menu from Bengal Club dinner, 29 December 2000 (with thanks to Chris Bayly).
90 Suri, ‘Bombay Dreams’, The Observer, 13 October 2002.
1 Griffiths, The History, pp. 626–7.
2 Macfarlane and Macfarlane, Green Gold, p. 43.
3 Achaya, Indian Food, p. 151.
4 Mandelslo, The Voyages and Travels, p. 13; Srivastava, Social Life, pp. 11–12; Blake, ‘Cityscape’, p. 159.
5 Jaffrey, A Taste of India, p. 199.
6 Hattox, Coffee, p. 79; Tavernier, Travels, II, p. 20.
7 Terry, A Voyage to East-India, pp. 106–7; Mahias, ‘Milk’, p. 280.
8 Scattergood et al., The Scattergoods, p. 71. The name Bohea for black tea comes from the European mispronunciation of Wu-i (pronounced ‘bu-i’ in Chinese), the name of the area which produced the tea.
9 Mandelslo, The Voyages and Travels, p. 13.
10 Ovington, A Voyage, p. 306.
11 Ali, Observations on the Mussulmauns of India, p. 331.
12 Tandon, Punjabi Century, p. 23.
13 Ovington, A Voyage, p. 306.
14 Mandelslo, The Voyages and Travels, p. 10.
15 Griffiths, The History, p. 16.
16 Banerji, Bengali Cooking, p. 93.
17 Kaye (ed.), The Golden Calm, p. 120.
18 Cited by Antrobus, A History, p. 17.
19 Shineberg, They Came for Sandalwood, p. 3.
20 Ibid.; Macfarlane and Macfarlane, Green Gold, pp. 101–8.
21 Twining, The House of Twining, pp. 12, 16–17, 69.
22 Burnett, Liquid Pleasures, pp. 49–52.
23 Mayhew, London Labour, pp. 183, 193.
24 Shineberg, They Came for Sandalwood, p. 5; Burnett, Liquid Pleasures, p. 57.
25 Griffiths, The History, p. 38.
26 Antrobus, A History, p. 14; Macfarlane and Macfarlane, Green Gold, p. 101.
27 Griffiths, The History, pp. 31–2.
28 Antrobus, A History, pp. 46–7; Griffiths, The History, pp. 50, 56; Weatherstone, The Pioneers, pp. 32–40.
29 Weatherstone, The Pioneers, p. 40.
30 Antrobus, A History, p. 65; Macfarlane and Macfarlane, Green Gold, pp. 141–8.
31 Griffiths, The History, pp. 97, 106.
32 Macfarlane and Macfarlane, Green Gold, pp. 160–5; Sanyal, Record of Criminal Cases, pp. 25–40.
33 Kingston, ‘The taste of India’, p. 43.
34 Griffiths, The History, pp. 579, 582–3, 586–7; Burnett, Liquid Pleasures, pp. 61-2; Lahiri, Indians in Britain, p. 69.
35 Ali, Observations on the Mussulmauns of India, p. 331; Gandhi, The Collected Works, p. 22.
36 Jo Sharma in conversation with the author.
37 Watt, Dictionary, IV, III, p. 475.
38 Weeden, A Year, p. 184.
39 Tea Association Records, / 922, p. 21.
40 Griffiths, The History, pp. 593, 601.
41 Ibid., pp. 606, 621.
42 Brennan, Curries and Bugles, p. 153; Sethi, ‘The creation of religious identities’, p. 78; Griffiths, The History, pp. 592–3.
43 Ukers, All About Tea, II, p. 324.
44 Griffiths, The History, p. 608.
45 Tea Association Records, / 924, p. 47.
46 Griffiths, The History, pp. 617–19, 626–7.
47 Anil Sethi in conversation with the author.
48 Adams, Across Seven Seas, p. 182.
49 Tea Association Records, / 924, pp. 46, 50; Griffiths, The History, pp. 608–9.
50 Tea Association Records, / 924, report on propaganda operations in India during the period 1 April 1939 to 31 December 1939; report 1 October 1940 to 30 September 1941; report October 1941 to September 1942; October 1942 to September 1943; October 1943 to September 1944; October 1944 to September 1945.
51 Hardyment, Slice of Life, p. 5.
52 Preston, A Yank’s Memories, Photo 934(54).
53 Tea Association Records, / 798, Notes on the Scheme for Development of Tea Propaganda in India by the Director of Propaganda (1955), pp. 3–4.
54 Weisberger and Comer, ‘Tea’, p. 716.
55 Banerji, Bengali Cooking, p. 93.
56 Beck, The Experience of Poverty, p. 140.
57 Weisberger and Comer, ‘Tea’, p. 716.
58 Banerji, Bengali Cooking, p. 93.
59 Beck, The Experience of Poverty, p. 140.
60 Tea Association Records, / 924, p. 47.
61 Pharmacopoeia, p. 181; Mahias, ‘Milk’, pp. 273–6.
62 Oman, The Brahmans, p. 35.
63 Tandon, Punjabi Century, pp. 16–17, 37, 73, 78.
64 Marriott, ‘Caste ranking and food transactions’, p. 169.
65 Carstairs, The Twice-Born, pp. 59, 234.
66 The Constitution of India (1950) made untouchability and its practice an offence. Mendelsohn and Vicziany, The Untouchables, pp. 118–27.
67 Sharma, Rampal, pp. 36–7.
68 Wadley, Struggling with Destiny, p. 224.
69 Forbes, India of the Princes, p. 272.
70 Conlon, ‘Dining out’, p. 102.
71 Kanigel, The Man, p. 21.
72 Pearson, Coastal Western India, p. 137; Wadley, Struggling with Destiny, p. 275.
73 Sharma, Rampal, pp. 36–7.
74 Mendelsohn and Vicziany, The Untouchables, pp. 120–7.
75 Busybee, ‘Trailing those charming cafés’, The Taj Magazine, 11, 2 (1982); Conlon, ‘Dining out’, p. 99.
76 Conlon, ‘Dining out’, p. 102.
77 Karkaria, Bachi J., ‘The incredible dabba connection’, The Taj Magazine, 10, 1 (1981).
78 Tandon, Punjabi Century, p. 110.
1 Srivastava, Social Life, p. 10; Beveridge (ed.), The Tuzuki-i-Jahangiri, p. 150.
2 Banerji, Bengali Cooking, p. 7.
3 Sherwood, ‘Race, nationality and employment’, pp. 233–4.
4 Ibid., pp. 239–41; Adams, Across Seven Seas, p. 149.
5 Choudhury, The Roots and Tales, pp. 41–3.
6 Ibid., pp. 49, 60.
7 Ibid., p. 72; Choudhury (ed.), Sons of the Empire, pp. 29–30.
8 Adams, Across Seven Seas, p. 152.
9 Choudhury (ed.), Sons of the Empire, p. 30.
10 Banerji, Bengali Cooking, p. 7.
11 Adams, Across Seven Seas, pp. 76–7.
12 Ibid., p. 155.
13 Hosain, ‘Of memories and meals’, p. 141.
14 Choudhury, The Roots and Tales, p. 66.
15 Ibid., p. 67.
16 Walton, Fish and Chips, p. 2.
17 Adams, Across Seven Seas, p. 157.
18 Walton, Fish and Chips, pp. 140, 153.
19 Adams, Across Seven Seas, pp. 77, 80.
20 Ibid., pp. 80–1.
21 Ibid., pp. 39, 89.
22 Gardner, ‘Desh and bidesh’, pp. 1, 4, 13.
23 Adams, Across Seven Seas, pp. 98–100.
24 Choudhury, The Roots and Tales, pp. 197–8.
25 Cotta, A Heritage, foreword.
26 Panjabi, 50 Great Curries, p. 25.
27 Geraldine Bedell, Observer, 12 May 2002.
28 Emma Brockes, ‘Tikka trickery’, Guardian, 30 July 1999.
29 Visram, ‘South Asians’, p. 174.
30 Clark et al., South Asians, p. 17.
31 Gardner, ‘Desh and bidesh’, p. 7.
32 Basu, Curry in the Crown, pp. 27–32.
33 Malabari, The Indian Eye, p. 45.
34 Blaxter and Paterson, ‘The goodness’, p. 97.
35 Cotta, A Heritage, foreword; Mass Observation Winter Directive of 1982. See also Good Housekeeping’s Casseroles and Curries, pp. 19–23.
36 Many of the citations from this paragraph are drawn from the Mass Observation Winter Directive of 1982 which asked participants about food and gardening.
37 Kingston, ‘The taste of India’, p. 45.
38 Levenstein, Paradox of Plenty, pp. 217–19.
39 Hardyment, Slice of Life, pp. 89–95.
40 Ian Jack, ‘Remembrance of meals past’, Guardian Review, 24 April 2004, p. 7.
41 Adams, Across Seven Seas, pp. 86–9, 105.
42 Margaret Orr Deas in conversation with the author.
43 Hardyment, A Slice of Life, p. 124.
44 Adams, Across Seven Seas, p. 105.
45 Williamson, East-India Vade-Mecum, II, p. 122.
46 Postgate (ed.), The Good Food Guide 1967–8, p. 500.
47 Petit, The Home Book, p. 19; Sethi, ‘The creation of religious identities’, p. 81.
48 See Chapman, The New Curry Bible, p. 59.
49 Lowe and Davidson, 100 Best Balti Curries.
50 Choudhury, Roots and Tales, pp. 101–3; Adams, Across Seven Seas, p. 105.
51 Hardyment, A Slice of Life, p. 123.
52 Jaffrey, An Invitation, pp. 13–14; Jaffrey, Madhur Jaffrey’s Indian Cookery, p. 7.
53 Jaffrey, Madhur Jaffrey’s Ultimate Curry Bible, p. 32.
54 Choudhury, The Roots and Tales, pp. 108–9.
55 Vickers, The European Ethnic Foods Market, p. 11.
56 Mass Observation Winter Directive of 1982.
57 Basu, Curry in the Crown, pp. xxvii–viii, 48, 88.
58 Vickers, The European Ethnic Foods Market, pp. 19, 21.
59 Geraldine Bedell, ‘It’s curry’, Observer, 12 May 2002.
60 Advert for Observer in Guardian, 7 May 2002.
61 Bell, Consuming Geographies, p. 174.
62 Hartley, Food in England, p. 1; James, ‘How British’, pp. 83–4; James, ‘Cooking the books’, p. 91.
63 Kathryn Flett, ‘Star of India’, Observer, 11 February 2001.
64 Yasmin Alibhai-Brown, ‘Why the future may not be orange’, Guardian, 13 July 2001.
1 Gardner, ‘Desh-Bidesh’, p. 11.
2 Jaffrey, Madhur Jaffrey’s Ultimate Curry Bible, pp. 14, 16–17.
3 Kale, ‘Projecting identities’, p. 74.
4 Clark et al, South Asians, p. 8.
5 Jaffrey, Madhur Jaffrey’s Ultimate Curry Bible, pp. 75, 153.
6 Mohammed Safiq in conversation with the author.
7 Jaffrey, Madhur Jaffrey’s Ultimate Curry Bible, p. 23.
8 Higman, ‘Cookbooks’, pp. 82–3.
9 Lal, Mr Tulsi’s Store, p. 108.
10 School menu for the village of Lovoni, Ovalau, Fiji.
11 Lal, Mr Tulsi’s Store, pp. 92–3.
12 Clark, West Indian Cookery, pp. 73–4.
13 Melendy, Asians in America, pp. 185, 206–8, 238–40; Takaki, Strangers, pp. 63–5, 295–312.
14 Takaki, Strangers, p. 65.
15 Melendy, Asians in America, pp. 238–9; Takaki, Strangers, p. 305.
16 Takaki, Strangers, pp. 296–7.
17 Ibid., p. 311.
18 Ibid., pp. 309–10.
19 Ibid., p. 311.
20 Ibid., p. 312; LaBrack and Leonard, ‘Conflict and compatibility’, pp. 537, 533.
21 Kaiya and Hanasaki, Oishinbo.
22 Ohnuma, ‘Curry rice’, pp. 8, 12; Travel Day Trip, Spice of Life @http://metropolis.japantoday.com.
23 Ohnuma, ‘Curry rice’, p. 9.
24 Bayly and Harper, Forgotten Armies, pp. 5, 16; Kishi Asako, ‘Curry on rice’, Nipponia, 15 September 2001.
25 Ohnuma, ‘Curry rice’, p. 10; Kaiya and Hanasaki, Oishinbo.
26 Japanese products @http://www.house-foods.com.
27 Ohnuma, ‘Curry rice’, pp. 10–11.
28 Guardian, 6 March 2000.
29 This is Arjun Appadurai’s argument. See Appadurai, ‘How to make a national cuisine’.
30 Das Sreedharan, ‘Star of India’, Observer, 22 July 2001; Anil Sethi in conversation with the author.