Affettati

SLICED CURED MEATS

In times of no refrigeration, cured meats were an important source of protein, enabling the family to preserve the meat after an animal was butchered. Sliced cured meats often sufficed for a whole meal, especially on days when there was work to be done. Seasonal accompaniments might include fresh fruit, olives, or nuts.

SERVES 4

6 thin slices pancetta

6 thin slices prosciutto di Parma

12 slices finocchiona salame (Tuscan-style salame with fennel seeds or your favorite salame)

Sliced country-style bread or grissini (bread sticks)

Arrange the meats on a cutting board or serving platter. Accompany with a basket of bread.

Bruschetta al Pomodoro

TOASTED BREAD WITH TOMATO

Bruschetta literally means “toasted,” and a slice of grilled or toasted bread can be served with many different toppings. Traditionally, the first pressing of the olive harvest is tasted on the spot and drizzled over bruschetta, which is also called fettunta.

SERVES 6

1 loaf country-style bread (1 pound), sliced ¹/2 inch thick

2 cloves garlic

2 tomatoes, diced

A few fresh basil leaves, torn into small pieces

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling

Sea salt

Grill or toast the bread on both sides. Remove from the heat and immediately rub with the cloves of garlic. In a medium bowl, combine the tomatoes, basil, the 3 tablespoons olive oil, and salt to taste. Spoon the tomato mixture onto the bread, place on a serving platter, and drizzle with olive oil.

Clockwise from bottom, center: Bruschetta al Pomodoro, Pan’ Santo, and Crostini del Cortile

Pan’ Santo

HOLY BREAD

Cavolo nero, literally “black cabbage,” is a dark, leafy vegetable grown in the late fall and winter, best after the first frost. In the United States, it is known as dinosaur or lacinato kale. If you are unable to find it in your market, substitute regular kale, Swiss chard, or spinach and decrease the cooking time by half. I imagine this is called “holy bread” because it is “anointed” with liquid.

SERVES 6

¹/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling

1 onion, finely chopped

3 ounces pancetta, finely chopped

1 dried peperoncino (dried red pepper) or pinch of red pepper flakes (optional)

20 leaves cavolo nero, julienned

1 cup vegetable, meat, or chicken stock

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

6 slices country-style bread

1 clove garlic

In a large sauté pan, heat the ¹/4 cup olive oil over medium heat and sauté the onion, pancetta, and peperoncino until the onion is golden, about 5 minutes. Remove the peperoncino and discard. Add the cavolo nero and stock; cover and simmer for 20 to 30 minutes, or until the cavolo nero is softened. Uncover and simmer another 10 minutes to reduce the cooking liquid. Season with salt and pepper to taste, and remove from the heat.

Toast the bread and rub it with the garlic clove. Arrange the toasts on a tray and top with the cavolo nero mixture. Drizzle with olive oil and serve at once.

Crostini del Cortile

FARMYARD CROSTINI

In a culture where nothing is wasted, all parts of the animals are used. Chickens, geese, and ducks ranged freely in the farmyard. When one of these birds was butchered, the innards were used to make a delicious mixture to spread on a slice of bread. My friend Lina Mazzetti taught me to add a bit of apple and anchovy to round out the flavor.

SERVES 6

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

¹/2 onion, finely chopped

6 ounces chicken, goose, or duck giblets (livers, heart, and gizzards)

1 apple, peeled, cored, and diced

¹/4 cup dry white wine or vin santo

¹/2 cup chicken stock

1 anchovy fillet

¹/2 teaspoon minced fresh thyme

1 tablespoon minced fresh flat-leaf parsley

1 tablespoon salt-cured capers, rinsed

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

12 slices country-style bread, toasted

In a medium skillet, heat the olive oil over medium heat and sauté the onion for about 3 minutes, or until translucent. Add the giblets and apple and cook for 4 to 5 minutes, or until the onion is browned and the giblets are crisp. Add the wine and stir to scrape up the browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Add the chicken stock and anchovy and cook for 10 to 12 minutes, or until the giblets are firm to the touch and the mixture has thickened. Transfer to a food processor and pureé until smooth. Stir in the thyme, parsley, capers, and salt and pepper to taste. Set aside and let cool.

To serve, spread a thin layer of the paste onto the toasted bread and arrange on a platter.

Fiori di Zucchine

STUFFED ZUCCHINI FLOWERS

Early summer is announced by the call of the cuckoo birds and the first zucchini flowers. Each plant bears both male and female flowers; the short-stemmed female flower bears the fruit. The longer-stemmed male flowers, the pollinators, are harvested for frying, but flowers with baby zucchini attached can also be used.

SERVES 6

12 very fresh zucchini flowers

1 cup (8 ounces) whole-milk ricotta

1 teaspoon minced fresh thyme

1 teaspoon minced fresh basil

3 tablespoons grated pecorino cheese

Sea salt

Extra-virgin olive oil for drizzling

Freshly ground black pepper

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Lightly oil a baking sheet.

Carefully rinse the zucchini flowers and remove the stamens. Blanch the flowers in boiling water for 3 seconds. Using a wire skimmer or slotted spoon, immediately transfer to a bowl of ice water for a few seconds to stop the cooking process. Using a wire skimmer or slotted spoon, immediately transfer to paper towels to drain.

In a medium bowl, combine the ricotta, herbs, and pecorino. Stir to blend, and then season to taste with salt. Fit a pastry bag with a large, plain tip. Fill with the mixture and squeeze some gently into each open flower until full. Twist the ends closed and place on the prepared pan.

Drizzle with olive oil, season with salt and pepper to taste, and bake for 4 to 6 minutes, or until heated through. Transfer to a serving platter and serve at once.

Acciughe Fritte

FRIED ANCHOVIES

Maria Aurelia Oriente remembers these delicacies, made by her mother. To make the morsels go further, her mother battered and coated the anchovies twice. Fresh anchovies are delicious and full of good nutrition, but if they are unavailable, use salt-cured ones instead. Rinse the anchovies and press one on a sage leaf, smearing it to make it stick, then continue with the batter and fry as indicated below.

SERVES 4

1 pound fresh anchovies, butterflied, cleaned, and heads removed (tails intact)

2 large eggs

1 teaspoon minced fresh marjoram

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Canola oil for deep-frying

20 to 25 fresh sage leaves

¹/2 to ³/4 cup fine dried bread crumbs

Rinse and drain the anchovies.

In a small bowl, beat the eggs with the marjoram and a pinch of salt and pepper. Place the bread crumbs in another bowl.

In a medium saucepan, heat 3 inches of oil to 375°F on a deep-fat thermometer.

Place a sage leaf on each anchovy and dip it in the egg mixture, then the bread crumbs. Press lightly to attach the coating to the anchovies, and dip each again in the egg and crumbs a second time. Add the coated anchovies carefully to the hot oil, and cook for 1 to 2 minutes on each side. Using a wire skimmer or a slotted spoon, transfer to paper towels to drain. Sprinkle with salt and serve at once.

Frittura Mista di Verdure

FRIED FLOWERS AND VEGETABLES

I make this appetizer year-round. In the fall and winter, I use strips of winter squash, sage, and sliced potatoes; in the spring, elderberry and acacia flowers; and in summer, zucchini flowers and eggplant. The important thing is to heat the oil to a temperature of 375°F; at this point, less oil is absorbed by the food. Fry in small batches, as large quantities will decrease the temperature of the oil.

SERVES 4

2 large eggs

3 tablespoons sparkling water, beer, or Prosecco

1 teaspoon sea salt, plus more for sprinkling

¹/4 cup unbleached all-purpose flour

Sunflower oil for frying

8 zucchini flowers (or your local edible flower), rinsed and patted dry

1 zucchini, cut into sticks

1 small onion, sliced and separated into rings

In a small bowl, combine the eggs, sparkling water, and the 1 teaspoon salt. Whisk in the flour until the mixture is smooth and the consistency of pancake batter.

In a heavy, medium saucepan, heat 2 inches of oil to 375°F on a deep-fat thermometer. Working in batches, dip the flowers and prepared vegetables in the batter and fry for 2 minutes, then turn and fry for another 2 minutes, or until golden brown. Using a wire skimmer or a slotted spoon, transfer to paper towels to drain. Sprinkle with salt and serve at once.

Pinzimonio

CRUDITÉS WITH OLIVE OIL

Italian-style restaurants in America often put a plate of olive oil on the table for guests to dip their bread into. But that just doesn’t happen in Italy. This recipe for a seasoned oil to dip vegetables in is the closest you will get to that idea. Use seasonal vegetables: In the spring and summer, take advantage of tender peas, asparagus, baby carrots, fennel, and sweet bell peppers. In fall and winter, choose more robust vegetables, such as cardoons, mushrooms, potatoes, and roasted beets.

SERVES 6

4 ounces broccoli florets, blanched

4 ounces cauliflower florets, blanched

4 ounces asparagus, trimmed to 4-inch lengths and blanched

3 carrots, peeled and cut into 4-inch-long strips

1 fennel bulb, cored and cut into wedges

2 red bell peppers, seeded, deveined, and cut into 4-inch-long strips

1¹/2 cups extra-virgin olive oil

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Arrange the vegetables on a platter. Offer your guests extra-virgin olive oil in individual dipping bowls, and let them season it to taste with salt and pepper.

Frittata con Cicoria

EGGS WITH WILD GREENS

Arugula is a good substitute for dandelion greens in this frittata. Adding leftover pasta or potatoes to the eggs before cooking makes for a more substantial dish.

SERVES 4

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 medium onion, finely chopped

4 ounces dandelion greens or arugula leaves, julienned

6 large eggs

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

In a 10-inch nonstick skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil over medium heat, and sauté the onion and greens for 3 to 4 minutes, or until the onion is translucent and greens have wilted. Remove from the heat.

In a medium bowl, beat the eggs until blended, and season with salt and pepper to taste. Add the cooked onion mixture.

Heat the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil in the same sauté pan. Add the egg mixture and cook, stirring gently, for 3 to 4 minutes, or until the eggs have set. Loosen the edges, flip the frittata over by sliding it onto a plate, then reverse it into the pan and cook the second side for 2 to 3 minutes, or until golden. Cut into fourths and serve at once.

Necci

CHESTNUT CRÊPES

Signora Eni Fiorini Marcucci uses ancient stones to make these crêpes in her fireplace. This recipe has been adapted for the modern kitchen. The traditional filling is fresh sheep’s milk ricotta, but cooked beans, onion frittata, sautéed wild greens, or bits of leftover roasted meat can also be used. The crêpes can also be drizzled with chestnut honey and served as a dessert.

MAKES 12 CRÊPES; SERVES 6

2¹/2 cups chestnut flour

2 cups spring water

¹/2 teaspoon sea salt

Piece of pork rind or cooking oil to grease cooking surface

1 cup (8 ounces) whole-milk ricotta, preferably sheep’s milk

In a large bowl, whisk the flour, salt, and water together until smooth. Cover and set aside for at least 1 hour or as long as overnight.

Heat a 7-inch nonstick crêpe pan or skillet over medium heat. Smear the pan with the pork rind (or brush with oil). Stir the batter and pour a scant ¹/4 cup into the pan. Tilt the pan so that the batter runs to the edges, creating a thin, even layer. Immediately loosen the edges with a spatula and cook for 1 minute, or until the top is set and looks dry. Turn and cook for 15 to 30 seconds, just to lightly brown the bottom. Stack the crêpes with parchment paper between them to keep the crêpes from sticking to one another until ready to use. Repeat for each crêpe, greasing the pan lightly each time before adding the batter.

To serve, place a tablespoonful of ricotta on each crêpe and roll it up. Serve at once.