Funghi Porcini alle Brace

GRILLED PORCINI MUSHROOMS WITH MINT AND GARLIC

After a few days of rain in the fall, then a few days of sun, the woods are filled with basket-carrying funghi hunters. The fresh Boletus edulis has a dense, meaty texture that has earned it the name “poor man’s steak.” This recipe can also be made with a firm mushroom such as shiitake or Portobello.

SERVES 4 TO 6

1 teaspoon minced fresh flat-leaf parsley

1 teaspoon minced fresh thyme

1 teaspoon minced fresh rosemary

1 teaspoon minced fresh mint

2 cloves garlic, minced

¹/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for brushing

1 pound porcini mushrooms (about 6 medium)

Light a medium fire in a charcoal grill.

In a small bowl, combine the herbs, garlic, and ¹/3 cup olive oil. Stir to blend and set aside.

Clean the mushrooms with a damp cloth. Cut them into ¹/2-inch-thick slices and brush them lightly with olive oil. Place on the grill and cook for 3 minutes on each side, or until lightly browned.

Transfer to a serving platter and brush with the herb-oil mixture. Serve at once.

Fagioli al Fiasco

BAKED BEANS

In the past, dishes were often left to cook while people went out to work the fields. Fagioli al fiasco was one of those dishes, beans left to simmer for hours in the coals of the kitchen fire. The container was a heavy green hand-blown glass bottle known as a fiasco. Into the bottle went beans, water, garlic, olive oil, salt, and fresh herbs (usually sage). The bottle would be closed with a cloth, then covered with coals and ash and left for hours. Today, the same dish is made in a Dutch oven or other ovenproof casserole and baked in the oven.

SERVES 4

1 cup dried cannellini beans, rinsed and picked over

2 cloves garlic, gently smashed

3 fresh sage leaves

¹/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

¹/2 teaspoon sea salt, plus more for seasoning

Freshly ground black pepper

In a medium saucepan, combine the beans, garlic, and sage. Add water to cover by 2 inches and soak overnight.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Drain the beans and place them in an ovenproof casserole dish. Add water to cover by 1 inch. Add the olive oil and ¹/2 teaspoon salt, cover, and bake for 2 hours, or until the beans are tender. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Fagioli Cannellini

COOKED CANNELLINI BEANS

True Italian cannellini beans can be found in the resources. Most cannellini beans in the U.S. market, even in gourmet stores, are white kidney beans grown in the Americas. They can be substituted, but the Italian bean is sweeter and has a wonderful creamy but firm consistency when cooked.

MAKES 3 CUPS

1 cup dried cannellini beans, rinsed and picked over

2 cloves garlic, gently smashed

3 fresh sage leaves

¹/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

¹/2 teaspoon sea salt

In a medium saucepan, combine the beans, garlic, and sage. Add water to cover by 2 inches and soak overnight.

Drain the beans and place them in a large stockpot with the garlic and sage. Add water to cover by 1 inch. Add the olive oil and salt, cover, and bring to a boil. Skim any foam and decrease the heat to a simmer. Cover and cook for 2 hours, or until tender, adding water as needed to keep the beans moist as they cook.

Zucca al Forno

BAKED WINTER SQUASH

October and November are the peak of the season for winter squash, though it can be kept for months longer. Besides pairing perfectly with roasted or grilled meats, the roasted squash can be cooled and puréed to use later as a ravioli filling.

SERVES 4

1¹/2 pounds acorn squash or butternut squash, peeled, halved, and seeded

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Preheat an oven to 375°F. Lightly oil a baking dish.

Cut the squash into 1-inch-thick slices, and place them in the prepared dish in a single layer. Drizzle with the olive oil, season with salt and pepper to taste, and bake for 35 to 40 minutes, or until fork-tender. Serve at once.

Pomodori, Fagioli, e Cipolline

ROASTED TOMATOES, BEANS, AND ONIONS

This hearty vegetable casserole needs no meat to make a satisfying meal on a cold night. If the small, squat onions known as cipolline are not available, you can substitute 4 quartered sweet red onions or 4 heads of garlic with the tops removed.

SERVES 8 TO 10

2 pounds potatoes, peeled and cut into 2-inch pieces

2 pounds cipolline onions, about 1¹/2 inches in diameter, trimmed and peeled

1 bulb fennel, cored and cut lengthwise into eighths

¹/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

2 cups cherry tomatoes

3 cups cooked cannellini beans

3 sprigs fresh thyme for garnish

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Place the potatoes, onions, and fennel in a roasting pan. Add the olive oil and toss well to coat. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Roast, turning occasionally, for 20 minutes. Add the tomatoes and roast another 10 to 15 minutes, or until the potatoes and cipolline are fork-tender and golden brown. Add the beans, garnish with thyme, and serve at once.

Uova ai Piselli alla Marelia

MARELIA’S PEAS AND EGGS

Maria Aurelia Oriente’s memories of the wartime cuisine revolve around peas. They were eaten fresh in season and dried the rest of the year. She still prepares them, and this is still one of her favorite dishes. If you’re serving a crowd, use a casserole dish rather than individual ramekins. The cooking time is the same. Frozen peas can be substituted when fresh peas are not in season.

SERVES 4

¹/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 onion, finely chopped

2 ounces pancetta, diced

1 cup water

1 pound fresh or frozen green peas

4 large eggs

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Preheat an oven to 375°F. Lightly oil four 1-cup ramekins.

In a large saucepan, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat, and sauté the onion and pancetta for 2 to 3 minutes, or until softened but not browned. Add the water and bring to a boil. Add the peas, decrease the heat to a brisk simmer, and cook for 3 minutes. Drain the peas and divide them among the prepared ramekins. Make a well in the center of each cup of peas and crack an egg into the well. Season with salt and pepper to taste, cover with aluminum foil, and place on a baking sheet. Bake for 12 to 14 minutes, or until the egg white is completely set. Serve at once.

Ceci Stufati

STEWED CHICKPEAS

In the area around Pisa, chickpeas are stewed with greens and anchovies, a delightful combination. Pasta can also be added for a complete one-dish meal.

SERVES 4

1 cup dried chickpeas, rinsed and picked over

¹/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 onion, finely chopped

2 carrots, peeled and finely chopped

1 stalk celery, finely chopped

6 cups water, heated

3 ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and coarsely chopped

3 salt-cured anchovies, rinsed and mashed

8 ounces Swiss chard, shredded

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Place the chickpeas in a medium saucepan, and add water to cover by 2 inches. Soak overnight.

Drain the chickpeas. In a large, heavy saucepan, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the onion, carrots, and celery, and cook for 4 to 5 minutes, or until the onion is golden. Add the water, tomatoes, anchovies, and drained chickpeas. Bring to a boil, then decrease the heat to a simmer, cover, and cook for 1¹/2 hours. Add the chard and cook for another 30 minutes, or until the chickpeas are tender. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Cicoria in Padella

SAUTÉED WILD GREENS

In the past, the cicoria, or chicory, in this recipe was a wild green also called puntarelle. Belgian endive and red radicchio are also members of the chicory family, with the characteristic bitter taste that complements fatty dishes. Arugula is a good substitute if you can’t find the greens listed in this recipe. Delicious as a side dish, these sautéed greens are also an excellent topping for bruschetta or tossed with pasta.

SERVES 4

2 pounds wild chicory, dandelion greens, and/or nettles

¹/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling

¹/2 cup chopped onion

2 anchovy fillets

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

In a large pot of salted boiling water, cook the greens for 10 minutes. Drain, let cool to the touch, and squeeze small handfuls to remove excess water. Set aside.

In a large sauté pan, heat the ¹/4 cup olive oil over medium heat and sauté the onion and anchovies for 2 to 3 minutes, or until the onion is softened. Add the cooked greens, tossing to coat them. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Transfer to a serving dish, drizzle with olive oil, and serve at once.