Garmugia Lucchese

LUCCA’S SPRING VEGETABLE SOUP

The origins of this soup go back to the 1600s. It is another version of a seasonal soup that uses whatever vegetables are at hand. In this case, it is a spring soup of early vegetables: asparagus, fava beans, fresh peas, and artichokes, flavored with small amounts of pancetta and veal.

SERVES 4

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 ounces pancetta, diced

2 ounces ground veal

4 spring onions or green onions, sliced crosswise

4 baby artichokes, trimmed and thinly sliced

4 baby carrots, peeled and cut into thin rounds

4 stalks asparagus, trimmed and cut into ¹/2-inch lengths

¹/4 cup green peas

4 ounces fava beans in the pod, shelled, blanched for 1 minute, and peeled

4 cups chicken stock, heated

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

4 slices country-style bread, toasted

In a large, heavy saucepan, heat the olive oil over medium heat, and add the pancetta, veal, and onions. Cook, stirring, for 4 to 5 minutes, or until the veal has browned. Add the artichokes and carrots, and cook until softened, about 2 minutes. Add the asparagus, peas, and fava beans, and cook for 2 minutes. Add the chicken stock, bring to a boil, decrease the heat to a simmer, and cook, uncovered, for 30 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Place a slice of toasted bread in each of 4 shallow soup bowls and ladle the soup over it. Serve at once.

Acquacotta

BREAD, ONION, AND GREENS SOUP

The word acquacotta literally means “cooked water,” and this soup is a traditional dish from the southern coastal part of Tuscany known as the Maremma. Because meat was rare and often the only liquid available was water, this was a kind of “stone soup” to which leftover bits of other foods were added.

SERVES 6

¹/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 onion, finely chopped

2 carrots, peeled and finely chopped

1 stalk celery, finely chopped

Pinch of red pepper flakes

1 pound chard or spinach, steamed and coarsely chopped

1 pound ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and coarsely chopped

6 cups water

Sea salt and freshly ground pepper

6 large eggs

¹/2 teaspoon white wine vinegar

6 thin slices country-style bread, toasted

In a large saucepan, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onion, carrots, celery, and pepper flakes. Cook for 4 to 5 minutes, or until the onion is golden, then add the chard. Cover, decrease the heat to low, and cook for 10 minutes. Add the tomatoes and water. Bring to a boil, decrease the heat to a simmer, cover, and cook for 45 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.

Meanwhile, poach the eggs. Bring a large saucepan of water to a boil, add the vinegar and a pinch of salt, then decrease the heat to a high simmer. Crack an egg into a soup ladle, then slide it into the water. Repeat with the remaining five eggs, cooking the eggs for 3 minutes, or until the white has set.

Place a slice of toasted bread in each of 6 shallow soup bowls. Using a slotted spoon, transfer each egg to each slice of toasted bread. Bring the soup to the table, stir it well, and ladle it into each bowl over the egg and serve at once.

Zuppa di Farro

FARRO SOUP

Farro (Triticum dicoccum), also sometimes called emmer, is an ancient strain of wheat thought to be one of the oldest grains in the Mediterranean. Found in Italy since Roman times, it was replaced for awhile with higher-producing types of wheat, but has made a comeback due to its nutty flavor, chewy texture, and because it is a good source of protein.

SERVES 4

¹/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling

1 medium onion, finely chopped

1 large carrot, peeled and finely chopped

1 stalk celery, finely chopped

2 cloves garlic, minced

2 cups whole farro

6 cups vegetable or chicken stock, heated

¹/2 cup cooked cannellini beans

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

¹/4 cup minced fresh flat-leaf parsley

In a medium soup pot, heat the ¹/4 cup olive oil over medium heat, and sauté the onion, carrot, and celery for 4 to 5 minutes, or until the onion is golden. Add the garlic and farro, and stir for 2 minutes. Gradually stir in the stock, allowing the farro to absorb some of the liquid. Cook, stirring frequently, for about 30 minutes, or until the farro is tender.

In a blender, purée half of the beans; add the puréed and whole beans to the soup and heat through. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve in warmed soup bowls, garnished with parsley and a drizzle of olive oil.

Pappa al Pomodoro

TOMATO-BREAD SOUP

This was the classic after-school snack in the past. Still pleasing to all ages, it can be made with fresh tomatoes in season, or with canned tomatoes in the off season. The word pappa means “baby food” or “mush,” giving you a clue to the consistency of this soup. It was another of the many ways to use dry, day-old bread. If you don’t want to make the traditional unsalted bread, use your favorite country-style bread and toast it.

SERVES 4

¹/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

3 cloves garlic, halved, plus 1 whole clove garlic

Pinch of red pepper flakes

1 pound fresh tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and cubed, or 1 (14¹/2-ounce) can peeled whole Italian tomatoes with juice, coarsely chopped

4 slices country-style bread, toasted

3 cups vegetable stock

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

¹/4 cup fresh basil leaves, julienned

In heavy, medium saucepan, combine the oil, halved garlic cloves, and pepper flakes, and cook over low heat for about 5 minutes to infuse the oil with the flavors; don’t let the garlic burn. Using a slotted spoon, remove the garlic and discard. Add the tomatoes and simmer for 15 minutes.

Rub the toasted bread with the whole garlic clove, and place the bread in a large heatproof casserole. Pour the vegetable stock, and then the tomato mixture over the toast, and cook over medium-high heat for 10 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Spoon into warmed soup bowls and garnish with the basil.

Farinata Toscana

TUSCAN CORNMEAL, KALE, AND BEAN SOUP

This recipe is from food historian Nancy Harmon Jenkins’ book Flavors of Tuscany. The origins of the soup are in the Casentino Mountains above Arezzo. In hard times, it could have been made with any kind of flour and foraged wild greens or mushrooms. It may be eaten as a thick soup, but like polenta, it is sometimes spread on a board to firm up, then sliced and fried in olive oil.

SERVES 8

¹/2 cup dried cannellini beans, rinsed and picked over

1 (6-inch) strip fresh pork rind, or 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 small bunch kale or cavolo nero (dinosaur or lacinato kale)

2 ounces pancetta, chopped

¹/2 medium onion

1 stalk celery

1 carrot, peeled

¹/2 cup fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves

1 clove garlic, crushed

2 tablespoons fresh rosemary leaves

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling

2 medium potatoes, peeled and cubed

¹/2 teaspoon fennel seeds, crushed

Sea salt

3¹/2 cups water

1 cup coarsely ground cornmeal or polenta

8 thin slices country-style bread, toasted or fried in extra-virgin olive oil

Grated aged pecorino or Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese for garnish

Place the beans in a medium saucepan with water to cover by 2 inches; soak overnight.

Drain the beans and place them in a small saucepan with the pork rind or olive oil. Add water to cover by 1 inch. Bring to a boil, decrease the heat, cover, and simmer for 1¹/2 hours, or until the beans are tender but not falling apart, adding a little boiling water from time to time if necessary. Remove the pork rind and discard. Set the beans aside in their cooking liquid.

Remove and discard the tough central ribs from the kale. Stack and roll the leaves into a cylinder, then cut them into shreds crosswise. You should have about 4 cups, tightly packed. Rinse the leaves well but do not dry. Set aside.

On a cutting board, chop together the pancetta, onion, celery, carrot, parsley, garlic, and rosemary until the mixture is very fine.

In a soup kettle, heat the 2 tablespoons olive oil over medium heat and sauté the chopped mixture for 4 to 5 minutes, or until the vegetables are soft but not brown. Add the cooked beans and all their liquid and stir to mix well. Add the shredded kale, the potatoes, fennel seeds, and salt to taste. Add 1¹/2 cups of the water and bring to a boil. Decrease the heat to a simmer and cook for about 20 minutes, or until the potatoes are cooked through and the other vegetables are very soft. The farinata may be prepared ahead of time up to this point. When ready to continue, heat the vegetable mixture to simmering, adding a little more water if necessary.

In a medium bowl, combine the cornmeal and the remaining 2 cups water. Stir until the cornmeal has absorbed the water, then gradually stir the cornmeal into the simmering soup until blended. Cook, stirring frequently, for 40 minutes, to make a very thick, porridgy soup.

Spoon the farinata over the toasted or fried bread. Drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with a little grated cheese. Serve at once.

Ribollita

CLASSIC TUSCAN VEGETABLE-BREAD SOUP

The restaurant Da Delfina in Artimino, just west of Florence, is a reference point for cucina povera. Chef Carlo Cioni understands intimately the relationship between the land and the table. In his hands, a sturdy vegetable soup is transformed into a second dish by layering leftover soup with bread, then into a third dish by baking the leftover layered soup and bread. The fourth and final transformation is ribollita, the remaining vegetable stew cooked in a skillet, a dish that exemplifies the resourcefulness of Tuscan cooks.

Carlo insists it must be made on top of the stove, not in the oven, a version often seen in restaurants. Oil is used sparingly for this is a peasant dish. The ingredients vary according to what is available, but Carlo explains, “There must be a balance between the dolce (sweet), aromatica (aromatic), and amaro (bitter).” The sweet is found in herbs, such as parsley, celery, and purslane; the aromatic is in thyme, borage, and fennel; and the bitter essences come from mustard greens and chicory. A leafy green is always present; in the winter, cavolo nero, and in the summer, cabbage.

Carlo admonishes cooks to handle the beans tenderly and cook them slowly, and “dolcemente,” gently, so they are not broken or crushed. He soaks them overnight with aromatics: whole cloves of garlic, a bay leaf, and a sprig of sage. Use any seasonal vegetables in this soup, and cook them in the order of hardness; start with vegetables such as potatoes that take longer to cook, and finish with the tender herbs.

SERVES 8

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling

1 onion, finely chopped, plus ¹/2 cup more chopped onion for Day 3

2 carrots, peeled and finely chopped

1 stalk celery, finely chopped

2 cloves garlic, minced

10 cups vegetable stock

1 or 2 boiling potatoes, peeled and cubed

3 zucchini, coarsely chopped

4 cups shredded cavolo nero (dinosaur or lacinato kale) or regular kale

1 cup shredded assorted leafy greens (such as Swiss chard, nettles, and spinach)

1 cup coarsely chopped aromatic greens (such as borage, fennel, and mustard)

2 cups cooked cannellini beans

¹/4 cup minced mixed aromatic herbs (such as fresh flat-leaf parsley, rosemary, and sage)

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 pound day-old country bread, thinly sliced

DAY 1: MINESTRA DI VERDURA (Vegetable Soup)

In a large soup pot, heat the oil over medium heat and sauté the onion, carrots, and celery for 4 to 5 minutes, or until the onion is golden. Add the garlic and stock, stirring to scrape up the browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Increase the heat to medium-high and add the potatoes and zucchini. Cook for 10 minutes, then add the cavolo nero and leafy greens. Decrease the temperature to a simmer and cook for 20 minutes. Add the beans and aromatic herbs. Simmer for 10 minutes to heat the beans through. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve in warmed soup bowls.

DAY 2: MINESTRA DI PANE (Bread Soup)

In a saucepan, warm the leftover soup over mediumlow heat. Place very thin slices of country-style bread in the bottom of a lightly oiled baking dish. Spoon one-third of the hot soup over the bread, and repeat with two more layers of bread and soup. Cover and let stand for 15 minutes to 1 hour in a warm place before serving.

DAY 3: MINESTRA DI PANE AL FORNO (Baked Bread Soup)

In a preheated 375°F oven, heat the leftover Bread Soup in its baking dish. Sprinkle with chopped onion and drizzle with olive oil. Return to the oven and bake for 20 minutes, or until the onions are lightly browned.

DAY 4: RIBOLLITA (Recooked Vegetable Stew)

Lightly brush a medium skillet with olive oil. Spoon the remaining Baked Bread Soup into the pan and brown over medium heat for 4 to 5 minutes, or until crisp on the bottom. Turn and cook for about 4 to 5 minutes to crisp the second side. Drizzle lightly with olive oil and sprinkle with freshly ground black pepper. The ribollita should be firm enough to eat with a fork. Serve at once.

Carabaccia

ONION SOUP

Sweet, tender onions, bread, and cheese—this is comfort food. The recipe for this Florentine dish goes back to the Renaissance, and many believe it to be the forerunner of French onion soup.

SERVES 4

¹/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 pounds sweet red onions, very thinly sliced

6 cups meat stock, heated

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

4 slices country-style bread, toasted

2¹/2 cups coarsely grated pecorino or Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

In a large soup pot, heat the olive oil over low heat. Add the onions and cook, stirring occasionally, for 20 to 30 minutes, or until the onions are caramelized. Add the stock, cover, and simmer for another 30 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Place a slice of toasted bread in each of 4 individual ovenproof soup bowls. Divide the onion soup among the bowls, and sprinkle one-fourth of the cheese into each bowl. Bake for 5 minutes, or until the cheese has melted and formed a crust.