GRAND FIR TIPS
Just to make things clear, this book is not designed to be a field guide to foraging. It is a handbook on the use of wild foods for harvesting, tips for developing a pantry, and recipes for creating wonderful meals. It is not meant to be a definitive guidebook on the subject. There are a lot of great reference books out there (see here) with much more attention to detail and scope. In my research, I personally found that there is almost too much information contained in some of these books. I want to know what stuff tastes good, is harmless, and provides nutrition and benefits to my diet. My goal is to sift through my experiences and present techniques, recipes, and ideas for you to incorporate wild foods into the modern diet.
GRAND FIR TIPS
In our journey into foraging, I will emphasize safety first. It’s always best to keep this in mind when entering a world of edible and poisonous substances. Successful foraging is about educating yourself and building up confidence in the identification and preparation of wild products. It is about knowing what to avoid, along with the seasonal variations in plants and shellfish. There are appropriate times for foraging these products, and if you miss that window, then you’ll have to wait a full year to get a second chance.
While many wild plants can provide healthy benefits to our diets, quite a few plants do the opposite—they can kill you, place you in a coma, shut down your organs, and cause neurological irregularities. Scared yet? Well good, remember that a healthy respect is key for successful foraging. The best advice is to focus in on a core of tasty and abundant products . . . and leave the rest alone. If you can’t leave them alone, perhaps we can work on improving your odds for survival.
Here are my thoughts on where to begin your foraging journey.
New foragers tend to stress out over the potential of eating a poisonous plant or mushroom. In reality, you are far more likely to fall prey to the environment around you. The wilderness is a sometimes inhospitable place. Mossy slopes, downed trees, sinkholes, thorns, and thick brush all lurk quietly, waiting to twist your ankle or break a bone. Most unfortunate incidents would require a call to an ambulance or a visit to an emergency room in the city. In the wilderness, this event can turn into a life-threatening situation far from help. You would benefit from some basic survival knowledge and an awareness of the potential dangers waiting.
The first rule of thumb is to never venture into the woods alone. It is a rule I sometimes break with my dog as a companion and a cell phone in my pocket. Usually these trips are close to home and in areas I know very well. But keep in mind I have many years of woods and survival experience and an admitted love of danger (my wife says I’m not that bright). Realize that smart phones are urban phones and often have a very limited range in the deep woods. They might be useful for that compass app, but don’t count on your phone working when you absolutely need it. I also make it a rule to tell people where I am going and when I expect to return. Solo foraging is not recommended for most people—too much can go wrong, cell calls drop, batteries die, weather changes. In general, if you are going into the deep forest, bring a friend or two and leave a note with your destination, parking location, and time you will return.
There are a few things I always bring with me when foraging. Here is my checklist:
The best foraged materials are often found far from civilization. You might use logging roads or trails as a starting point, but it is easy to get off the grid and into territory that has few or no signs of civilization. A good map is handy to have in the wild; modern technology like a hand-held GPS is also useful for those not familiar with the terrain of the foraging area.
While foraging, there is a tendency to do two dangerous things. One is looking at the ground as you walk. The second is getting carried away by the thrill of the forage. Particularly when you are finding lots of plants or mushrooms, the thrill tends to make you forget things like direction. The natural tendency for most people is to veer off to the left or right when they are walking (even though they may think they are walking in a straight line). Your best low-tech source of direction is often the sun—but this is not helpful if it is cloudy or raining. I like to keep an eye on stream directions and the general layout of hills as I hike. If I am in an area that is not familiar, I tend to work in loops away from a base point (usually my vehicle) and explore the area in expanding circles. Always remember to get out of the woods well before dusk; the light diminishes quickly in the forest.
Deadfall, rotted stumps, and soft moss are all part of the hazards of foraging. Rotting stumps are particularly treacherous as they can allow your leg to sink suddenly deep into the moss, a potential threat to your bones and knee ligaments. High winds are another dangerous hazard in the woods: tree branches break off, trees uproot, and dead trees can become dangerous projectiles. Leave the woods quickly if high winds occur.
Foraging on the seashore has its own set of complications. The forage zones around rocks are slippery and it can be easy to trip and fall in the water. There are dangerous currents called rip tides that can quickly whisk you out to sea, sometimes with undertow currents that drag you down. Be very careful around rocks and seaside cliffs. Erosion is always at work on these cliffs, making their edges very fragile and prone to collapse.
The beach is also bombarded with UV rays, which makes getting a sunburn a very real possibility. Combine this with a windburn and you could be in for a few painful days. I always add a good hat and sunscreen to the list of foraging tools for the seashore. And don’t forget your lips—the wind and sun will dry them out quickly and result in chapped and cracked lips. I carry lip balm in my backpack to protect mine.
It is fairly common to come across animals like bears while foraging in the forest. Happily, bears will usually run away and leave you alone. Most bears are doing the same thing you are: foraging for berries. They have poor eyesight, so they will hear and smell you before they see you. You should be concerned if you see a freshly killed carcass, or small bear cubs nearby. Slowly back away from these bears and head off in the opposite direction. If you are placed in a bad position (i.e., being attacked), you can try using bear spray (hot pepper spray) or hitting the bear sharply on the nose or in the eyes—repeatedly. This is easier said than done. A brown bear can weigh up to 1,500 pounds (680 kg) and has very strong teeth and claws. The bear will often try to attack your head and neck, so the best advice is to curl up in a ball and wrap your hands around your neck. Actually, the very best advice is to avoid a confrontation—it is far less painful. Most bears are just as scared of you. However, bears that wander through towns or garbage dumps are more dangerous, as they have been conditioned to not fear humans.
Cougars are another threat here in the Pacific Northwest. Although naturally shy, cougars are sometimes attracted to dogs and small children. They hunt around dusk, so it is never a good idea to be foraging at this time of the day. Cougar attacks are more common if the natural food of the cougar is scarce (deer, rabbits, etc.) or the animal is in distress and desperate. Most serious animal attacks in our region involve cougars.
My beach travels have resulted in several encounters with wolves. They are often chasing other prey or just hanging out at the beach with the rest of us. Wolves are naturally shy and tend to stay away from humans and civilizations. They are usually far more interested in the local deer population; if you see a carcass, move away as quickly as possible.
Ticks are another common pest of Pacific Northwest forests. Be sure to remove any ticks as soon as possible. The tick is a mild irritant but they do occasionally harbour bacteria that can result in Lyme disease. This is a serious infection that has debilitating effects; the classic symptoms are a circular expanding rash around the bite, followed by severe and persistent flu like systems (sometimes lasting months). The best protection against ticks is covering your skin with clothing, tucking pants into your socks, and wearing a hat. They are fairly rare, but ticks may have serious consequences.
There are many poisonous plants and mushrooms lurking out in the wild. I have tried to focus on the safer bets for foraging, but every aspect of gathering wild plants has some risks. One of the nastiest plants out there is commonly known as water hemlock (Cicuta species, locally Cicuta douglasii). It contains a toxin (cicutoxin) that has a damaging effect on the central nervous system, leading to convulsions, loss of consciousness, and death in some cases. To make matters worse, these plants are easily mistaken for common edible plants like wild celery, cow parsnip, and wild carrots.
Many other plants contain compounds (toxins, acids, psychoactive compounds) that are potentially detrimental to your health and well-being. Positive identification is a critical first step to keeping safe. Always make sure you are identifying the plant correctly before ingesting any wild product. Even then, some people’s metabolism or general health levels will not tolerate some wild plants. People with compromised immune systems and kidney or liver issues should be particularly careful with their usage of wild plants.
In most regions, there are Poison Control response centres that are manned by specialists in poisonous substances. They are experts in identifying poisons and can create a life-saving plan of action for those affected. If you have an issue with something you have eaten, it is handy to have a sample or photo to aid in identification. Inducing vomiting is usually the first line of defense, along with ingesting fluids to flush the toxins through the liver and kidneys. Get help immediately.
There is a dizzying array of common shellfish illnesses associated with contaminated products. These include bacteria and symptom types like Vibrio parahaemolyticus, hepatitis A, norovirus, Paralytic Shellfish Poisoning (PSP), amnesic shellfish poisoning (ASP), and diarrhetic shellfish poisoning (DSP). Symptoms may appear within a few hours or may take a number of days to develop. These dangers are the reason it is critical never to harvest near populated areas or where harvest bans are in place. It is also important to always cook products thoroughly to kill some (but not all) of these toxins.
As a forager, you are forced to make a series of judgment calls on the suitability of the foraged materials. Is the environment free of contamination? Is the plant ready for harvesting? Is the plant past its prime? Am I absolutely sure of the identification? These judgments in the field are crucial to finding safe products and to ensuring you make the best of a precious resource.
The environment surrounds us: land, water, and air. It is often an incredibly nurturing cradle of fertility; occasionally, it is harsh and unforgiving. Taking a health survey of the harvest environment is a critical step. Are there signs of civilization nearby—roadways, buildings, signs of pollution? Pollution can take on many disguises, from an oily sheen on the water (a sign of contamination) to the aroma of industrial fluids, or the presence of garbage and abandoned equipment or vehicles. Many people choose the strangest and most beautiful places to dump their refuse. Wild plants readily suck up contaminants in their growth. In this way, they are indicators of environmental health. Plants may look healthy and may indeed thrive in conditions that create dangerous compounds. Urban areas in particular are sources of nasty chemicals and rich sources of bacterial contamination. Mushrooms in particular may be compromised with heavy metals, radiation, and dangerous chemicals. These are man-made interactions and the presence of nearby signs of civilization and wild foods living together should always give you pause for concern. This factor makes foraging in urban areas relatively risky. It may be possible to harvest healthy and clean food in these environments but the odds of finding compromised food increases with the level of human activity around the plants. So where do you go? As far away as possible from civilization might be the best advice.
A. PINE SHOOTS B. BLACKBERRIES C. CATTAIL D. YELLOW CHANTERELLES
The timing of foraged product depends on many factors. Along the Pacific coast, the seasons arrive at different times, depending on a few factors. Latitude dictates the amount of sunlight and darkness each day receives. Altitude of the location affects the daily temperatures, and orientation (north, south, east, west) plays a role in when plants emerge and grow to maturity.
In general, plants growing in areas with lower altitude and good exposure to sunlight will mature sooner. Areas like north-facing slopes at higher elevations may be a month or more behind. Mushrooms rely on a combination of moisture and sunlight to fruit; they may need a blend of these conditions to make the right mixture for abundant harvesting.
These reasons are why the best foragers take years to know the climate and terrain of a region. They may need to go to different areas each year to obtain the correct combination of conditions. This is as much art as it is science. Careful observation is the best teacher.
In our region, look to the spring for the best greens and shoots from trees and berries. The first mushroom harvest starts with morels and oyster mushrooms. Summer is primetime for berries, with the first chanterelles and lobster mushrooms also appearing. Fall is all about tree fruits and the vast majority of the mushroom harvest. Finally, the winter months are peak seasons for shellfish and a special treat—tapping the bigleaf maples to create wondrous syrup. There are amazing products to be found in all our seasons.
Wild foods are out there at the mercy of the elements, animals, and insects. The plants that are edible to us are usually edible to a host of creatures. Many wild greens are best in the spring when they are young, tender, sweeter, and less prone to insect damage and infestation. Pick specimens that have whole leaves and do not appear wilted, damaged, or diseased.
Berries are best when they have ripened fully. The berry is often sour and bitter up until that point. While there are some uses for these sour and bitter components, most of us will want the berries when they are sweet and succulent. Unfortunately, this is the time many other creatures also want the sweet fruit. Bears, mice, deer, birds, squirrels—the list could go on and on. Pick berries when they are firm, sweet, and plump. Don’t forget to leave a few behind for the wildlife!
Moulds are a particular concern for wild food and mushroom foraging. Parasitic moulds attack certain mushrooms often with an increased risk for allergy issues and stomach upsets. Berries and foods with higher sugar contents are subject to wild yeast and may even ferment while on the plant. Wrinkled, discoloured, and mouldy foods should be separated and discarded.
Mushrooms are a perishable product that begins to deteriorate as soon as you pick it. The more delicate the mushroom, the faster this deterioration will occur. One of your first considerations should be conservation. Mushrooms are the fruit of a much bigger organism whose main job it is to produce spores to help the plant reproduce. I usually forage for mushrooms that are relatively plentiful (like the ones I have described in this book [see here]).
If you find a large patch of mushrooms, resist the urge to pick every specimen. For one thing, there will usually be a wide range of quality in the mushrooms. Young buttons may look great but they will not have had time to develop a depth of flavour. Older mushrooms will be starting to decay and perhaps be riddled with worm larva. I tend to high-grade mushrooms in the field and take only the best, making sure to leave any questionable mushrooms behind.
If you include wormy mushrooms in your harvest, beware as the larva will migrate to the other, untouched mushrooms as they sit in transport or storage. This is particularly important to watch for with porcini and pine mushrooms.
There is much debate over the correct way to harvest mushrooms. In a mossy forest floor habitat, I feel it is best to gently push the mushroom until it detaches from the mycelium (underground mushroom body) and then pull it up from the forest floor. At that point, you can trim any dirt from the base and clean off as much debris as possible. I never allow dirt to enter my collecting basket or bag. I have no real preference between using baskets or cloth, or even plastic, bags—as long as I immediately place the mushrooms in a packing basket when I return to my vehicle. If you store the mushrooms in a plastic bag for any length of time, they will sweat moisture and the decay process will be accelerated.
Other mushrooms occur on the trunks and stumps of trees (like the oyster mushroom and the cauliflower fungus). These mushrooms must be cut off with a knife as they are harvested. Oyster mushrooms are fragile, so I prefer to use a basket for collecting delicate specimens. A bag would jostle and crush these mushrooms.
In general, try to keep mushroom types separate. Don’t worry too much about similar cousins like hedgehogs, chanterelles, etc. These you can sort out back at the house. If there are fragile mushrooms, you can place them in a paper bag and keep then apart in your collecting basket. If you are unsure about the ID of a mushroom, it is a good idea to keep the mushroom separate until it can be identified with certainty (using a guidebook or other expert opinion).
Back in the kitchen, I like to soak greens in a big pan of cold water and remove any dirt, dust, and foreign materials from the harvest. I keep all the different plants separate and process them quickly if needed (i.e., stinging nettles). Or I spin them dry in a salad spinner and place them in a small container covered with a damp cloth. Most greens will keep fresh for a couple of days this way.
Depending on the type of berry, berries must usually be handled delicately. You can give them a quick rinse but avoid soaking the berries as it may speed up their decay. Remove any leaves and foreign materials as well as any unripe or damaged fruit. It is wise to process the berries quickly as some are prone to breaking down or developing moulds quickly.
After a mushroom harvest, lay out newspapers on a table and spread out your collection. Go through the mushrooms to confirm the identification, discarding any that you are unsure of. You also have a second opportunity to clean the mushrooms, trimming off any brown edges of the mushrooms. It is important to check for worms (and worm trails) and discard any specimens that are riddled with worms. Failing to do so will result in the transfer of the worms to all the adjacent mushrooms. Make sure to brush off any debris and to wipe the mushrooms with a wet cloth if they appear soiled. If the mushrooms are very wet (like chanterelles tend to be) you can leave the mushrooms out for several hours. Moisture will evaporate and be absorbed by the newspapers. Choose a storage container with plenty of side ventilation (see here) and line it with paper towels or newspaper. Place the cleaned mushrooms inside and top with more paper. Here you need a judgment on the moisture content of the mushrooms. If they appear dry, sprinkle a little water on the top to keep the mushrooms hydrated. If the mushrooms appear wet, do not add any additional water, just place in the refrigerator overnight.
Whatever your harvest, it is a good idea to make plans to process (dry, preserve, etc.) the products within a few days. Like any fresh product, they start to deteriorate the moment they are picked. The more delicate and fragile the material, the greater the urgency to deal with the harvest before it begins to deteriorate.