This 13th-century Dominican church is rich in art. Along with crucifixes by Giotto and Brunelleschi, it contains every textbook’s example of the early Renaissance mastery of perspective: The Trinity by Masaccio. The exquisite chapels trace art in Florence from medieval times to early Baroque. The outside of the church features a dash of Romanesque (horizontal stripes), Gothic (pointed arches), Renaissance (geometric shapes), and Baroque (scrolls). Step in and look down the 330-foot nave for a 14th-century optical illusion.
Next to the church are the cloisters and the museum, located in the old Dominican convent of Santa Maria Novella. The museum’s highlight is the breathtaking Spanish Chapel, with walls covered by a series of frescoes by Andrea di Bonaiuto.
Cost and Hours: Church and museum—€5, covered by Firenze Card, Mon-Thu 9:00-17:30, Fri 11:00-17:30, Sat 9:00-17:00, Sun 12:00-17:00 July-Sept (from 13:00 Oct-June), last entry 45 minutes before closing, audioguide-€5, modest dress required, main entrance on Piazza Santa Maria Novella, Firenze Card holders must enter behind the church at Piazza della Stazione 4, tel. 055-219-257, http://museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it or www.chiesasantamarianovella.it.
This palatial perfumery has long been run by the Dominicans of Santa Maria Novella. Thick with the lingering aroma of centuries of spritzes, it started as the herb garden of the Santa Maria Novella monks. Well-known even today for its top-quality products, it is extremely Florentine. Pick up the history sheet from the rack, and wander deep into the shop. The main sales room, where you can sample various cosmetics and perfumes, was originally a chapel, the middle (green) room offers items for the home, and the historic third room, which sells herbal products, is where the pharmacy was originally established in 1612. From here, you can peek at one of Santa Maria Novella’s cloisters with its dreamy frescoes and imagine a time before Vespas and tourists.
Cost and Hours: Free but shopping encouraged, daily 9:00-20:00, a block from Piazza Santa Maria Novella, 100 yards down Via della Scala at #16—see map on here, tel. 055-216-276, www.smnovella.com.
The imposing Pitti Palace, several blocks southwest of Ponte Vecchio, is not only home to the second-best collection of paintings in town, the Palatine Gallery, but also happens to be the most sumptuous palace you can tour in Florence. The building itself is mammoth, holding several different museums and anchoring two gardens. Stick primarily to the gallery, forget about everything else, and the palace becomes a little less exhausting.
You’ll walk through one palatial room after another, walls sagging with masterpieces by 16th- and 17th-century masters, including Rubens, Titian, and Rembrandt. Its Raphael collection is the second-biggest anywhere—the Vatican beats it by one. Each room has some descriptions in English, though the paintings themselves have limited English labels.
The collection is all on one floor. To see the highlights, walk straight down the spine through a dozen or so rooms. Before you exit, consider a visit to the Royal Apartments. These 14 rooms (of which only a few are open at any one time) are where the Pitti’s rulers lived in the 18th and 19th centuries. Each room features a different color and time period. Here, you get a real feel for the splendor of the dukes’ world.
The rest of Pitti Palace is skippable, unless the various sights match your interests: the Gallery of Modern Art (second floor, features Romantic, Neoclassical, and Impressionist works by 19th- and 20th-century Tuscan painters), Argenti/Silverworks Museum (on the ground and mezzanine floors; displays Medici treasures from jeweled crucifixes to gilded ostrich eggs), Costume Gallery, Porcelain Museum, and Boboli and Bardini gardens (behind the palace; enter from Pitti Palace courtyard—be prepared to climb uphill).
The main reason to visit Pitti Palace is to see the Palatine Gallery, but you can’t buy a ticket for the gallery alone; to see it you’ll need to buy ticket #1, which includes the Palatine Gallery, Royal Apartments, and Gallery of Modern Art. Ticket #2 covers the Boboli and Bardini Gardens, Costume Gallery, Argenti/Silverworks Museum, and Porcelain Museum. Behind door #3 is a combo-ticket covering the whole shebang.
Cost and Hours: Ticket #1—€13 (€8.50 if no special exhibits), Tue-Sun 8:15-18:50, closed Mon, last entry 45 minutes before closing. Ticket #2—€10 (€7 if no special exhibits), daily June-Aug 8:15-19:30, April-May and Sept-Oct 8:15-18:30, March 8:15-17:30, Nov-Feb 8:15-16:30, closed first and last Mon of each month, last entry one hour before closing. Ticket #3—€11.50, valid 3 days, usually not available during special exhibitions. Reservations are possible but unnecessary, and everything is covered by the Firenze Card (except the Bardini Gardens—an additional €6 for cardholders). The €6 audioguide (€10/2 people) explains the sprawling palace. No photos are allowed in the Palatine Gallery. Tel. 055-238-8614, www.polomuseale.firenze.it.
Getting In: If there’s a long line, you can try asking at window 3 at the ticket office (marked “Reservation Desk”) if they’ll let you make a €3 reservation on the spot (not always possible). You can also skip lines if you have a Firenze Card (but remember that the card doesn’t cover the Bardini Gardens). Once you have your ticket, enter through the main doorway in the center of the facade. Firenze Card holders should go directly to the main entrance (where you may be ushered to the head of the security checkpoint); then go to the bookstore on the left side of the courtyard to have your card swiped and get your tickets.
For the best look at works by Masaccio (one of the early Renaissance pioneers of perspective in painting), see his restored frescoes here. Instead of medieval religious symbols, Masaccio’s paintings feature simple, strong human figures with facial expressions that reflect their emotions. The accompanying works of Masolino and Filippino Lippi provide illuminating contrasts.
Your ticket includes a 20-minute film (English subtitles) on the chapel, the frescoes, and Renaissance Florence. (If the film’s not showing, consider the €2 videoguide.) The film’s computer animation brings the paintings to 3-D life—they appear to move—while narration describes the events depicted in the panels. The film takes liberties with the art, but it’s visually interesting and your best way to see the frescoes close up.
Cost and Hours: €6, cash only, covered by Firenze Card; free and easy reservations required if you don’t have a Firenze Card (see next); Mon and Wed-Sat 10:00-17:00, Sun 13:00-17:00, closed Tue, last entry 30 minutes before closing; free 20-minute film, videoguide-€2, knees and shoulders must be covered; in Church of Santa Maria del Carmine, on Piazza del Carmine in the Oltrarno neighborhood; reservations tel. 055-276-8224 or 055-276-8558, ticket desk tel. 055-284-361, http://museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it.
Reservations: Although reservations are required, on weekdays and any day off-season, it’s often possible to walk right up and get an entry time, especially if you come before 15:30. To reserve in advance, call the chapel a day ahead (tel. 055-276-8224 or 055-276-8558, English spoken, call center open Mon-Sat 9:30-13:00 & 14:00-17:00, Sun 9:30-12:30). You can also try via email—info.museoragazzi@comune.fi.it.
This church has a classic Brunelleschi interior—enjoy its pure Renaissance lines (and ignore the later Baroque altar that replaced the original). Notice Brunelleschi’s “dice”—the stone cubes added above the column capitals that contribute to the nave’s playful lightness. The church’s art treasure is a painted, carved wooden crucifix attributed to 17-year-old Michelangelo. The sculptor donated this early work to the monastery in appreciation for allowing him to dissect and learn about bodies. The Michelangelo Crocifisso is displayed in the sacristy, through a door midway down the left side of the nave (if it’s closed, ask someone to let you in). Copies of Michelangelo’s Pietà and Risen Christ flank the nave (near the main door). Beer-drinking, guitar-playing rowdies decorate the church steps.
Cost and Hours: Free, Mon-Tue and Thu-Sat 9:30-12:30 & 16:00-17:30, Sun 11:30-12:30 & 16:00-17:30, closed Wed, Piazza di Santo Spirito, tel. 055-210-030, www.basilicasantospirito.it.
Overlooking the city from across the river (look for the huge bronze statue of David), this square has a superb view of Florence and the stunning dome of the Duomo.
It’s worth the 30-minute hike, drive, or bus ride (either #12 or #13 from the southeast corner of the train station, between the pine trees and the bikes—takes 20-30 minutes, longer in bad traffic). It makes sense to take a taxi or ride the bus up and then enjoy the easy downhill walk back into town. An inviting café (open seasonally) with great views is just below the overlook. The best photos are taken from the street immediately below the overlook (go around to the right and down a few steps). Off the west side of the piazza is a somewhat hidden terrace, an excellent place to retreat from the mobs. After dark, the square is packed with schoolkids licking ice cream and each other. About 200 yards beyond all the tour groups and teenagers is the stark, beautiful, crowd-free, Romanesque San Miniato Church (next listing). A WC is located just off the road, halfway between the two sights.
The hike down is quick and enjoyable. Take the steps between the two bars on the San Miniato Church side of the parking lot (Via San Salvatore al Monte). At the first landing (marked #3), peek into the rose garden (Giardino delle Rose). After a few minutes, you’ll walk through the old wall (Porta San Miniato) and emerge in the delightful little Oltrarno neighborhood of San Niccolò, with a fun and funky passel of cafés and restaurants (for recommendations, see here).
According to legend, the martyred St. Minias—this church’s namesake—was beheaded on the banks of the Arno in A.D. 250. He picked up his head and walked here (this was before the #12 bus), where he died and was buried in what became the first Christian cemetery in Florence. In the 11th century, this church was built to house Minias’ remains.
The church’s green-and-white marble facade (12th century) is classic Florentine Romanesque, one of the oldest in town. Inside you’ll find some wonderful 3-D paintings, a plush ceiling of glazed terra-cotta panels by Luca della Robbia, and an exquisite Renaissance chapel (on the left side of the nave). The highlight for me is the brilliantly preserved art in the sacristy (upstairs to right of altar, in the room on right) showing scenes from the life of St. Benedict (circa 1350, by a follower of Giotto). Drop €2 into the electronic panel in the corner to light the room for five minutes. The evening vesper service with the monks chanting in Latin offers a meditative worship experience—a peaceful way to end your visit.
Cost and Hours: Free, daily Easter-mid-Oct 8:00-20:00, in winter 8:30-13:00 & 15:30-19:00, closed sporadically for special occasions, tel. 055-234-2731, www.sanminiatoalmonte.it.
Getting There: It’s about 200 yards above Piazzale Michelangelo. From the station, bus #12 takes you right to the San Miniato al Monte stop (hop off and hike up the grand staircase); bus #13 from the station takes you to Piazzale Michelangelo, from which you’ll hike up the rest of the way.
Gregorian Chants: To experience this mystical medieval space at its full potential, time your visit to coincide with a prayer service of Gregorian chants. In general, these are held each evening at 18:30 and last 30 minutes—but as the schedule is subject to change, double-check with any TI, the church’s website, or call ahead.
Florence may be one of Europe’s most enticing shopping towns—it’s been known for its sense of style since the Medici days. Many people spend entire days (or lifetimes) shopping here. Smaller stores are generally open 9:00-13:00 and 15:30-19:30, usually closed on Sunday, often closed on Monday (or at least Monday morning), and sometimes closed for a couple of weeks around August 15. Bigger stores have similar hours, without the afternoon break. Many stores also have promotional stalls in the market squares.
Busy street scenes and markets abound, especially at San Lorenzo Market near Mercato Centrale, near Santa Croce, on Ponte Vecchio, and at Mercato Nuovo (the covered market square three blocks north of Ponte Vecchio, described on here). Leather, cosmetics, gold, silver, art prints, and tacky plaster mini-Davids are most popular. Prices are soft in the markets and even at many midrange leather shops—go ahead and bargain.
For shopping ideas, ads, and a list of markets, see The Florentine newspaper or Florence Concierge Information magazine (free from TI and many hotels). For authentic, locally produced wares, look for shops displaying the Esercizi Storici Fiorentini seal, with a picture of Palazzo Vecchio’s tower. At these city-endorsed “Historical Florentine Ventures,” you may pay a premium, but you can be assured of quality (for a list of shops, see www.esercizistorici.it).
For ritzy Italian fashions, the entire area between the Arno River and the cathedral is busy with inviting boutiques. Browse along Via della Vigna Nuova (runs west from Via de’ Tornabuoni) and Via degli Strozzi (runs east from Via de’ Tornabuoni to Piazza della Repubblica). A tempting string of streets—Borgo Santi Apostoli, Via del Parione, and Borgo Ognissanti—runs parallel to the river one block inland, from near the Uffizi westward. Fashion lovers shouldn’t miss the Gucci Museum, with a prime address on Piazza della Signoria (and described on here). The main Ferragamo store fills a classy 800-year-old building with a fine selection of shoes and bags (daily 10:00-19:30, Via de’ Tornabuoni 2). The store also has a fun shoe museum; see here.
Across the river in the Oltrarno, known for its artisanal workshops, a short walk past the tourist crowds takes you to some less-discovered zones that are worth exploring: near Pitti Palace, and the main street parallel to the river (Borgo San Jacopo to Via di Santo Spirito). For an in-depth look at Oltrarno workshops, pick up the brochure called “A Tour of Artisan Workshops,” which you may find at the TI or at participating shops. Various local tour operators also do tours of Oltrarno workshops (see “Tours in Florence” on here).
Many shoppers in Florence put leather at the top of their list: jackets, handbags, wallets, shoes, and so on. With its inimitable sense of style, richly perfumed leather shops, and notoriously persuasive sales clerks, Florence has a way of turning leather browsers into leather buyers. You’ll see leather for sale all over Florence. Don’t expect to get a good-quality, authentic leather, “made in Italy” jacket for less than about €250-350. Top-quality and designer jackets can cost much more—and there’s a big difference in quality between a €100 jacket, a €250 jacket, and a €500 jacket. Think carefully about your budget before you head out.
If you want to spend only €100-200, there are plenty of merchants around town (particularly at San Lorenzo Market stalls) willing to help you part with your money. But if you pay a lower price, you’re likely sacrificing quality, craftsmanship, and durability.
Most leather shops within walking distance of the old core of Florence cater to tourists and well-heeled locals, so true bargains are rare. Here are a few specific shops with good reputations:
La Pelle, straight ahead from the Oltrarno end of Ponte Vecchio, stocks a fine variety of good-quality leather coats (€300-400); the welcome is warm but not too aggressive (Via Guicciardini 11 red, tel. 055-292-031, www.lapellesrl.it).
Atelier Classe sits down a mostly neglected alley near Piazza Santa Croce. While surrounding streets teem with cut-rate leather, this boutique feels classier—but the prices are accordingly higher (€400-600 for a basic jacket, on-site alterations possible, closed Sun and Mon morning until 14:00, Via Torta 16 red, tel. 055-268-145, www.atelierclasse.com). They also have a shoe store two doors down.
Davide Cesari sits along the embankment on the north side of the Arno, just steps from Ponte Vecchio. They make jackets for some well-known American brands. It feels tasteful but a bit pushy (€250-400 jackets, Lungarno Acciaiuoli 32 red, tel. 055-282-019).
Noi, facing Piazza Davanzati, comes with an even harder sell than the others listed here, but the quality is reputable (Via Porta Rossa 65 red, tel. 055-210-319, www.noi-firenze.com).
Michelangelo is a bit less expensive than the others (midrange €250-350 jackets), and the quality feels less assured. Somewhere between “hard-sell” and “soft-sell,” it’s burrowed down a side street from the San Lorenzo Market chaos (daily 10:00-19:00, Via Giovan Battista Zannoni 9/11 red, tel. 055-285-497, www.lagalleriamichelangelo.com).
Some of the leather jacket shops listed above also sell bags. Other shops include:
The Leather School (Scuola del Cuoio) at Santa Croce Church—described on here—is the most famous place to buy leather in Florence. The quality is unsurpassed, but prices are extremely high. But even for browsers, it’s worth a visit as the most accessible place to watch leather workers hard at work (daily 10:00-18:00, artisans at work Mon-Fri 10:00-17:30, closed Sun off-season, enter around behind Santa Croce Church at Via San Giuseppe 5 red, or from inside the church; 055-244-533, www.scuoladelcuoio.com).
Via de Ginori 23r, one of Florence’s many midrange shops specializing in bags, is well worth a browse. Conveniently located just a couple of blocks from the San Lorenzo Market, this family-run shop carries a tasteful collection of stylish yet practical bags—some their own production, some from other local suppliers—and a line of eco-friendly bags made from recycled tires (Mon 15:30-19:30, Tue-Sat 10:00-14:00 & 15:00-19:30, closed Sun, may be closed Sat afternoon in summer, Via de Ginori 23 red, tel. 055-239-8031).
Furò e Punteruolo (“Flatknife and Awl”) sells a small selection of wallets, purses, and handbags in a more rustic style. Paulo makes everything by hand on the premises (closed Mon morning, Via del Giglio 29 red, mobile 348-437-0867).
Roberta, across the river in the Oltrarno, a couple of blocks from Ponte Vecchio, is another popular choice for fashionable but moderately priced leather handbags (Mon-Sat 10:00-19:30, closed Sun, also closed Mon Nov-Feb, Borgo San Jacopo 74 red, tel. 055-284-017, www.robertafirenze.com).
For a reliable local standby, consider Gilardini, just steps from the Duomo and Baptistery. This classic and classy shop sells a variety of Italian leather shoes, for women or men (Sun-Mon 15:30-19:30, Tue-Sat 9:30-19:30, Via Cerretani 8 red, tel. 055-212-412, www.gilardinishoes.it).
Competition among Florence’s hotels is stiff. When things slow down, fancy hotels drop their prices and become a much better value for travelers than the cheap, low-end places. Nearly all of my recommended accommodations are located in the center of Florence, within minutes of the great sights. If arriving by train, you can either walk (usually around 10 minutes) or take a taxi (roughly €6-8) to reach most of my recommended accommodations, as buses don’t cover the city center very well.
Florence is notorious for its mosquitoes. If your hotel lacks air-conditioning, request a fan and don’t open your windows, especially at night. Many hotels furnish a small plug-in bulb (zanzariere)—usually set in the ashtray—that helps keep the blood-suckers at bay. If not, you can purchase one cheaply at any pharmacy (farmacia).
Museumgoers take note: Your hotelier may be able to reserve entry times for you at the Uffizi Gallery and the Accademia (Michelangelo’s David). This can be handy if you don’t plan to get a Firenze Card, and don’t want to bother with reserving these sights yourself (for both options, see here). If interested, ask about it when you book your room. Your hotel may charge a fee for this service.
All of these places are within a block of Florence’s biggest church and main landmark. While touristy—and expensive—this location puts just about everything in town at your doorstep.
$$$ Palazzo Niccolini al Duomo, one of five elite Historic Residence Hotels in Florence, is run by Niccolini da Camugliano. The lounge (where free chamomile tea is served in the evenings) is palatial, but the 12 rooms, while splendid, vary wildly in size. If you have the money and want a Florentine palace to call home, this can be a good bet (Db-€240, bigger rooms up to €500, ask for 10 percent Rick Steves discount when you book directly with the hotel, check online to choose a room and consider last-minute deals, elevator, air-con, free guest computer, Wi-Fi, Via dei Servi 2, tel. 055-282-412, www.niccolinidomepalace.com, info@niccolinidomepalace.com).
$$$ Hotel Duomo’s 24 rooms are modern and comfortable enough, but you’re paying for the location and the views—the Duomo looms like a monster outside the hotel’s windows. If staying here, you might as well spring the extra €20 for a “superior” room with a view (Sb-€110, Db-€180, Tb-€230, 10 percent discount with this book if you pay cash, air-con, elevator, Wi-Fi, Piazza del Duomo 1, fourth floor, tel. 055-219-922, www.hotelduomofirenze.it, info@hotelduomofirenze.it; Paolo and Gilvaneide).
$$ Residenza dei Pucci rents 13 pleasant rooms (each one different) spread over three floors. The decor, a mix of soothing earth tones and aristocratic furniture, makes this place feel upscale for this price range (Sb-€135, Db-€150, Tb-€170, Qb suite-€238, 10 percent discount with this book if you pay cash, air-con, no elevator, Wi-Fi, reception open 9:00-20:00, shorter hours off-season—let them know if you’ll arrive late, Via dei Pucci 9, tel. 055-281-886, www.residenzadeipucci.com, info@residenzadeipucci.com, friendly Mirella and Marina).
$$ Soggiorno Battistero rents seven simple, airy rooms, most with great views, overlooking the Baptistery and the Duomo square. Request a view or a quieter room in the back when you book, but keep in mind there’s always some noise in the city center. It’s a pristine and minimalist place run by Italian Luca and his American wife Kelly, who makes the hotel particularly welcoming (Sb-€83, Db-€110, Tb-€145, Qb-€155, 5 percent discount if you book directly with the hotel and pay cash, breakfast served in room, air-con available June-Aug, elevator, Wi-Fi, Piazza San Giovanni 1, third floor, tel. 055-295-143, www.soggiornobattistero.it, info@soggiornobattistero.it).
$$ Residenza Giotto B&B offers the chance to stay on Florence’s upscale shopping drag, Via Roma. Occupying the top floor of a 19th-century building, this place has six bright, slightly scruffy rooms and a terrace with knockout views of the Duomo’s tower. Reception is generally open 9:00-17:00; let them know your arrival time in advance (Sb-€90, Db-€139, view rooms-€10 extra, extra bed-€25, 10 percent discount if you book direct and pay cash, air-con, elevator, Wi-Fi, Via Roma 6, tel. 055-214-593, www.residenzagiotto.it, info@residenzagiotto.it, Giorgio).
$$ La Residenza del Proconsolo B&B, run by helpful Mariano, has five older-feeling rooms a minute from the Duomo (three rooms have Duomo views). The place lacks public spaces, but the rooms are quite large and nice—perfect for eating breakfast, which is served in your room (Sb-€90, Db-€120, Tb-€140, slightly larger “deluxe” with view-€20 more, air-con, no elevator, Wi-Fi, Via del Proconsolo 18 black, tel. 055-264-5657, mobile 335-657-4840, www.proconsolo.com, info@proconsolo.com).
After dark, this neighborhood can feel a little deserted, but I’ve never heard of anyone running into harm here. It’s a short walk from the train station and an easy stroll to all the sightseeing action. While workaday, it’s practical, with plenty of good budget restaurants and markets nearby.
$$ Relais Grand Tour has five charming rooms on a nondescript street between the train station and the Accademia. This cozy B&B will make you feel right at home; it’s thoughtfully appointed and the owners, Cristina and Giuseppe, live there. The delightful and spacious suites come with a garden ambience on the ground floor (Db-€115, suite-€135, 10 percent discount with this book if you book directly with hotel and pay cash, includes breakfast voucher for the corner bar—or skip it to save €7/person, skip daily cleaning to save €11/day, air-con, Wi-Fi, Via Santa Reparata 21, tel. 055-283-955, www.florencegrandtour.com, info@florencegrandtour.com). They run another more romantic, pricier place a couple of blocks away.
$$ Galileo Hotel, a comfortable business hotel with 31 rooms on a chaotic and congested street, is run with familial warmth (Sb-€100, Db-€130, Tb-€160, Qb-€190, ask for 10 percent Rick Steves discount when you book directly with hotel and pay cash, quadruple-paned windows effectively shut out street noise, air-con, elevator, guest computer, Wi-Fi, Via Nazionale 22a, tel. 055-496-645, www.galileohotel.it, info@galileohotel.it).
$$ Hotel Il Bargellino, run by Bostonian Carmel and her Italian husband Pino, is in a residential neighborhood within walking distance of the center. They rent 10 summery rooms decorated with funky antiques and Pino’s modern paintings. Guests enjoy Leopoldo, the parrot, and relaxing on the big, breezy, momentum-slowing terrace adorned with plants and lemon shrubs (S-€45, D-€90, Db-€100, €5 more for room facing terrace, book directly with hotel and ask for Rick Steves rate, extra bed-€25, no breakfast, Wi-Fi, north of the train station at Via Guelfa 87, tel. 055-238-2658, www.ilbargellino.com, carmel@ilbargellino.com).
$ Casa Rabatti is the ultimate if you always wanted to have a Florentine mama. Its four simple, clean rooms are run with warmth by Marcella. This is a great place to practice your Italian, since Marcella loves to chat and speaks minimal English. Seeing nearly two decades of my family Christmas cards on their walls, I’m reminded of how long she has been keeping budget travelers happy (D-€50, Db-€60, €25 extra per bed in shared quad or quint, prices good with this book, cash only but secure reservation with credit card, no breakfast, fans available, Wi-Fi, 5 blocks from station at Via San Zanobi 48 black, tel. 055-212-393, casarabatti@inwind.it).
$ Hotel Enza rents 18 straightforward rooms, some recently renovated. The prices are reasonable for predictable hotel comfort (Sb-€55, Db-€80, Tb-€100, these prices promised through 2015 with this book, no breakfast, air-con, no elevator, guest computer, Wi-Fi, Via San Zanobi 45 black, tel. 055-490-990, www.hotelenza.it, info@hotelenza.it, Diana).
$$$ Hotel Loggiato dei Serviti, at the most prestigious address in Florence on the most Renaissance square in town, gives you Old World romance with hair dryers. Stone stairways lead you under open-beam ceilings through this 16th-century monastery’s monumental public rooms—it’s so artful, you’ll be snapping photos everywhere. The 38 cells—with air-conditioning, TVs, mini-bars, Wi-Fi, and telephones—would be unrecognizable to their original inhabitants. The hotel staff is both professional and warm (Sb-€120, Db-€160, superior Db-€190, family suites from €280, ask for Rick Steves rate when you book directly with hotel, elevator, valet parking-€21/day, Piazza S.S. Annunziata 3, tel. 055-289-592, www.loggiatodeiservitihotel.it, info@loggiatodeiservitihotel.it; Simonetta, Gianni, and two Chiaras). When full, they rent five spacious and sophisticated rooms in a 17th-century annex a block away. While it lacks the monastic mystique, the annex rooms are bigger, gorgeous, and cost the same.
$$$ Hotel dei Macchiaioli offers 15 fresh and spacious rooms on one high-ceilinged, noble floor in a restored palazzo owned for generations by a well-to-do Florentine family. You’ll eat breakfast under original frescoed ceilings while enjoying modern comforts (Sb-€100, Db-€180, Tb-€240, 10 percent Rick Steves discount if you book directly with hotel and pay cash, air-con, Wi-Fi, Via Cavour 21, tel. 055-213-154, www.hoteldeimacchiaioli.com, info@hoteldeimacchiaioli.com, helpful Francesca and Paolo).
$$ Hotel Morandi alla Crocetta, a former convent, envelops you in a 16th-century cocoon. Located on a quiet street with 12 rooms, period furnishings, parquet floors, and wood-beamed or painted ceilings, it takes you back a few centuries and up a few social classes (Sb-€105, Db-€155, Tb-€185, Qb-€199, big “superior” room-€30 extra, air-con, no elevator, Wi-Fi, a block off Piazza S.S. Annunziata at Via Laura 50, tel. 055-234-4747, www.hotelmorandi.it, welcome@hotelmorandi.it, well-run by Maurizio, Rolando, and Ertol).
$$ Hotel Europa, family run since 1970, has a welcoming atmosphere fostered by cheery Miriam, Roberto, and daughters Priscilla and Isabel. The breakfast room is spacious, and most of the 12 rooms have views of the Duomo (Sb-€89, Db-€150, Tb-€180, Qb-€250, 10 percent discount if you pay cash, mention Rick Steves to get their best available room, air-con, elevator, Wi-Fi, Via Cavour 14, tel. 055-239-6715, www.webhoteleuropa.com, firenze@webhoteleuropa.com).
While convenient to the sights and offering a good value, these places are mostly along nondescript urban streets, lacking the grit, charm, or glitz of some of my other recommended neighborhoods.
$$ Residenza il Villino has 10 charming rooms and a picturesque, peaceful little courtyard. The owner, Neri, has turned part of the hotel into a mini-museum of early Italian fashion. As it’s in a “little villa” (as the name implies) set back from the street, this is a quiet refuge from the bustle of Florence (Sb-€105, small Db-€120, Db-€135, family suite that sleeps up to 5—price upon request, book directly with hotel for best prices, 5 percent discount with this book if you pay cash, air-con, guest computer, Wi-Fi, just north of Via degli Alfani at Via della Pergola 53, tel. 055-200-1116, www.ilvillino.it, info@ilvillino.it).
$$ Panella’s Residence, once a convent and today part of owner Graziella’s extensive home, is a classy B&B, with five chic, romantic, and ample rooms, antique furnishings, and historic architectural touches (Db-€155, bigger “deluxe” Db-€180, extra bed-€40, book direct and mention Rick Steves for these prices, discounts for cash and stays of 3 or more nights, air-con, Wi-Fi, Via della Pergola 42, tel. 055-234-7202, mobile 345-972-1541, www.panellaresidence.com, panella_residence@yahoo.it).
$$ B&B Il Bargello is a home away from home, run by friendly and helpful Canadian expat Gabriella. Hike up three long flights (no elevator) to reach six smart, relaxing rooms. Gabriella offers a cozy communal living room, kitchen access, and an inviting rooftop terrace with close-up views of Florence’s towers (Db-€110, ask for Rick Steves rate when you book directly with hotel and pay cash; fully equipped apartment across the hall-€180/2 people, €10 more per extra person; air-con, free guest computer, Wi-Fi, 20 yards off Via Proconsolo at Via de’ Pandolfini 33 black, tel. 055-215-330, mobile 339-175-3110, www.firenze-bedandbreakfast.it, info@firenze-bedandbreakfast.it).
$ Hotel Dalí has 10 cheery rooms in a nice location for a great price. Samanta and Marco, who run this guesthouse with a charming passion and idealism, are a delight to know (S-€40, D-€70, Db-€85, extra bed-€25, request quiet room when you book, nearby apartments sleep 2-6 people, no breakfast, fans but no air-con, elevator, Wi-Fi, free parking, 2 blocks behind the Duomo at Via dell’Oriuolo 17 on the second floor, tel. 055-234-0706, www.hoteldali.com, hoteldali@tin.it).
$ Locanda de’ Ciompi, overlooking the inviting Piazza dei Ciompi antique market in a young and lively neighborhood, is just right for travelers who want to feel like a part of the town. Alessio and daughter Lisa have five rooms that are tidy, lovingly maintained, and affordable (S with private b down hall-€73, Db-€90, bigger superior Db-€96, Tb-€140, 10 percent discount with this book if you book directly with hotel and pay cash, includes breakfast at nearby bar, air-con, Wi-Fi, 8 blocks behind the Duomo at Via Pietrapiana 28—see map on here, tel. 055-263-8034, www.bbflorencefirenze.com, info@bbflorencefirenze.com).
$ Oblate Sisters of the Assumption run an institutional 30-room hotel in a Renaissance building with a dreamy garden, great public spaces, appropriately simple rooms, and a quiet, prayerful ambience (Sb-€55, Db-€94, Tb-€141, Qb-€188, cash only, single beds only, family discounts available, air-con, elevator, Wi-Fi in lobby with suggested donation, €10/day limited parking—request when you book, Borgo Pinti 15, tel. 055-248-0582, sroblateborgopinti@virgilio.it, sisters are likely to speak French but not English, Sister Theresa is very helpful).
Buried in the narrow, characteristic lanes in the very heart of town, these are the most central of my accommodations recommendations (and therefore a little overpriced). While worth the extra cost for many, given Florence’s walkable, essentially traffic-free core, nearly every hotel I recommend can be considered central.
$$$ In Piazza della Signoria B&B, overlooking Piazza della Signoria, is peaceful, refined, and homey at the same time. Fit for a honeymoon, the 10 rooms come with all the special touches and little extras you’d expect in a top-end American B&B, and the service is sharp and friendly. However, the rates are high, and the “partial view” rooms, while slightly larger, require craning your neck to see anything—not worth the extra euros. Guests enjoy socializing at the big, shared breakfast table (viewless Db-€250, partial-view Db-€280, full-view “deluxe” Db-€300, Tb-€280, partial-view Tb-€300, ask for 10 percent discount when you book directly with this book, family apartments, lavish bathrooms, air-con, tiny elevator, guest computer, Wi-Fi, Via dei Magazzini 2, tel. 055-239-9546, mobile 348-321-0565, www.inpiazzadellasignoria.com, info@inpiazzadellasignoria.com, Sonia and Alessandro).
$$$ Hotel Pendini, with three stars and 44 rooms (most of them recently renovated and plush), fills the top floor of a grand building overlooking Piazza della Repubblica that was built to celebrate Italian unification in the late 19th century. This place just feels classy; as you walk into the lobby, it’s as if you’re walking back in time (Sb-€139, Db-€189, deluxe Db with square view and noise-€239, air-con, elevator, guest computer, Wi-Fi, Via degli Strozzi 2, tel. 055-211-170, www.hotelpendini.it, info@hotelpendini.it).
$$ B&B Dei Mori, a peaceful haven with a convivial and welcoming living room, rents five colorful rooms ideally located on a quiet pedestrian street near Casa di Dante—within a five-minute walk of the Duomo, the Bargello, or Piazza della Signoria. Accommodating Daniele (Danny) and his staff pride themselves on offering personal service, including lots of tips on dining and sightseeing in Florence (D-€110, Db-€130, minimum two-night stay, 10 percent discount for Rick Steves readers—ask when you book directly with the hotel, less inviting overflow apartment, air-con-€5, no elevator, Wi-Fi, reception open 8:00-19:00, Via Dante Alighieri 12, tel. 055-211-438, www.deimori.com, deimori@bnb.it).
$$ Hotel Maxim is reasonably priced considering its prime location on the main pedestrian drag. While the 26 rooms are straightforward, its narrow, painting-lined halls and cozy lounge have old Florentine charm (Sb-€75, Db-€130, Tb-€160, Qb-€180, book directly with hotel and use promo code “RICK” for 10 percent discount, air-con, elevator, guest computer, Wi-Fi, Via de’ Calzaiuoli 11, tel. 055-217-474, www.hotelmaximfirenze.it, reservation@hotelmaximfirenze.it, Chiara).
$$ Hotel Axial, two floors below their sister Hotel Maxim, has a more businesslike feel and 14 rooms that are only slightly nicer for the higher rates (Sb-€90, bigger “superior” Sb-€114, Db-€149, book directly with hotel and use promo code “RICK” for 10 percent discount, air-con, elevator, guest computer, Wi-Fi, Via de’ Calzaiuoli 11, tel. 055-218-984, www.hotelaxial.it, info@hotelaxial.it, Nicola).
This sleepy zone is handy to several sights and some fine shopping streets (from top-end boutiques to more characteristic hole-in-the-wall shops), though it’s accordingly pricey and lacks a neighborhood feel of its own.
$$$ Hotel Davanzati, bright and shiny with artistic touches, has 25 cheerful rooms with all the comforts. The place is a family affair, thoughtfully run by friendly Tommaso and father Fabrizio, who offer drinks and snacks each evening at their candlelit happy hour, plus lots of other extras (Sb-€132, Db-€199, Tb-€259, family rooms available, these rates good with this book though prices soft off-season, 10 percent discount if you pay cash, free loaner laptop in every room, free on-demand videos—including Rick Steves’ Italy shows—on your room TV, air-con, Wi-Fi, next to Piazza Davanzati at Via Porta Rossa 5—easy to miss so watch for low-profile sign above the door, tel. 055-286-666, www.hoteldavanzati.it, info@hoteldavanzati.it).
$$$ Hotel Torre Guelfa has grand—almost royal—public spaces and is topped by a fun medieval tower with a panoramic rooftop terrace (72 stairs take you up—and back—720 years). Its 31 pricey rooms vary wildly in size and layout. Room 315, with a private terrace (€260), is worth reserving several months in advance (Db-€190, higher prices for bigger rooms, ask for Rick Steves discount, family deals, check their website for promotions, air-con, elevator, guest computer, Wi-Fi, a couple blocks northwest of Ponte Vecchio, Borgo S.S. Apostoli 8, tel. 055-239-6338, www.hoteltorreguelfa.com, info@hoteltorreguelfa.com, Niccolo and Barbara).
$$$ Relais Uffizi is a peaceful little gem, offering a friendly welcome and 15 classy but well-worn rooms tucked away down a tiny alleyway off Piazza della Signoria. The lounge has a huge window overlooking the action in the square below (Sb-€120, Db-€180, Tb-€220, more for deluxe rooms, air-con, elevator, guest computer, Wi-Fi; from the square, go down the tiny Chiasso de Baroncelli lane—right of the loggia—and look for Chiasso del Buco 16 on your right; tel. 055-267-6239, www.relaisuffizi.it, info@relaisuffizi.it, charming Alessandro and Elizabetta).
$$ Hotel Alessandra, a lesser value, is 16th-century, tranquil, and sprawling, with 27 big, old-school rooms and a tiny Arno-view terrace (S with private bathroom down the hall-€88, Sb-€110, Db-€150, “superior” Db with Arno view-€30 extra, Tb-€195, Qb-€215, 5 percent cash discount, air-con, 30 steps to the elevator, guest computer, Wi-Fi, Borgo S.S. Apostoli 17, tel. 055-283-438, www.hotelalessandra.com, info@hotelalessandra.com, Anna and son Andrea).
This touristy zone has lots of budget and midrange hotels catering to an international clientele, stacks of basic trattorias, and easy access to major sights (just steps from the Medici Chapels, Church of San Lorenzo, and Mercato Centrale, and only a bit farther to the biggies). The mostly pedestrianized Via Faenza is the spine of this neighborhood, with lots of tourist services.
$$$ Hotel Centrale is indeed central, just a short walk from the Duomo. The 31 spacious but overpriced rooms—with a tasteful mix of old and new decor—are over a businesslike conference center (Db-€190, bigger superior Db-€237, Tb-€236, suites available, 10 percent discount with this book, ask for Rick Steves rate when you reserve, 20 percent discount if booked two months in advance, air-con, elevator, guest computer, Wi-Fi, Via dei Conti 3, check in at big front desk on ground floor, tel. 055-215-761, www.hotelcentralefirenze.it, info@hotelcentralefirenze.it, Margherita and Roberto).
$$ Hotel Accademia has 21 old-school rooms and a floor plan that defies logic. While it’s overpriced and getting a bit long in the tooth, the location is convenient (small Sb-€70, Db-€145, Tb-€170, 10 percent discount with this book if you book directly with the hotel and pay cash, air-con, no elevator, guest computer, Wi-Fi, Via Faenza 7, tel. 055-293-451, www.hotelaccademiafirenze.com, info@hotelaccademiafirenze.com, Tea).
$ Hotel Lorena, just across from the Medici Chapels, has 19 simple, well-worn rooms (six of which have shared bathrooms) and a tiny lobby. Though it feels a bit like a youth hostel, it’s cheap, well-located, and run with care by the Galli family (S-€45, Sb-€65, D-€75, small Db-€80, Db-€90, Tb-€120, very flexible rates, cash only, breakfast-usually €5 extra but free for Rick Steves readers, air-con, Wi-Fi, Via Faenza 1, tel. 055-282-785, www.hotellorena.com, info@hotellorena.com).
These fine, charming little budget options are on a grimy urban street that’s across Piazza Santa Maria Novella from the train station. The church’s sweet-smelling perfumery is just across the street.
$$ Bellevue House, a great budget option, is a third-floor (no elevator) oasis of tranquility, with six spacious, old-fashioned rooms flanking a long, mellow-yellow lobby. It’s a peaceful time warp thoughtfully run by the Michel family (Db-€110, Tb-€120, Qb-€140, 10 percent discount if you book directly with hotel and stay two nights, no breakfast, air-con, Wi-Fi, Via della Scala 21, tel. 055-260-8932, www.bellevuehouse.it, info@bellevuehouse.it; Luciano, Susan, and Alessandro).
$ Albergo Margaret, homey yet minimalist, doesn’t have a public lounge or offer breakfast. Run by the Cristantielli family, it has seven tidy, simple rooms (Ss-€55, D-€50, Ds-€70, Db-€90, 10 percent discount if you book directly with hotel and pay cash, extra bed-€10, air-con in most rooms, Wi-Fi, near Santa Maria Novella at Via della Scala 25, tel. 055-210-138, www.hotel-margaret.it, info@hotel-margaret.it; Francesco, Anna, and Graziano). Graziano also rents an apartment upstairs (for up to 5 people; prices on request).
This hostel, northeast of downtown, is a bus ride from the action. A far more central hostel is in the Oltrarno (see listing later).
$ Hostel 7 Santi calls itself a “travelers’ haven.” It fills a former convent, but you’ll feel like you’re in an old school. Still, it offers some of the best cheap beds in town, is friendly to older travelers, and comes with the services you’d expect in a big, modern hostel, including Wi-Fi and self-serve laundry. It’s in a more residential neighborhood near the Campo di Marte stadium, about a 10-minute bus ride from the center (200 beds in 60 rooms, mostly 4- or 6-bed dorms with a floor of doubles and triples, €16-18/dorm bed, Sb-€45, Db-€60, Tb-€70, Qb-€80, includes sheets and towels, breakfast and dinner available but cost extra, no curfew, guest computer, Wi-Fi; Viale dei Mille 11—from train station, take bus #10, #17, or #20, direction: Campo di Marte, to bus stop Chiesa dei Sette Santi; tel. 055-504-8452, www.7santi.com, info@7santi.com).
Across the river in the Oltrarno area, between Pitti Palace and Ponte Vecchio, you’ll find small, traditional crafts shops, neighborly piazzas, and family eateries. The following places are an easy walk from Ponte Vecchio. Only the first two are real hotels—the rest are a ragtag gang of budget alternatives.
$$$ Hotel Silla is a classic three-star hotel with 36 cheery, spacious rooms. On the opposite side of the river from Santa Croce Church, it has a breezy terrace and faces the river, overlooking a small park, with free coffee and tea for guests in the late afternoon. The surrounding neighborhood can be a bit noisy (Db-€170, bigger “superior” Db-€200, Tb-€230, book directly with hotel and use promo code “RICK” for 10 percent discount, extra bed-€35, air-con, elevator, guest computer, Wi-Fi, parking-€19/day, Via dei Renai 5—see map on here, tel. 055-234-2888, www.hotelsilla.it, hotelsilla@hotelsilla.it; Laura, Chiara, Massimo, and Stefano).
$$ Hotel la Scaletta has 36 recently remodeled, bright rooms hiding in a tortured floor plan, plus a fabulous rooftop terrace overlooking the Boboli Gardens (Db-€160, slightly more for new “superior” rooms, third bed-€30, family suite that sleeps up to 5-€270, breakfast-€10, air-con, elevator, guest computer, Wi-Fi, Via de’ Guicciardini 13, tel. 055-283-028, www.hotellascaletta.it, info@hotellascaletta.it).
$ Soggiorno Alessandra has five bright, comfy, and smallish rooms. Because of its double-paned windows, you’ll hardly notice the traffic noise (D-€70, Db-€75, Tb-€95, Qb-€125, includes basic breakfast in room, air-con-€5, no elevator, Wi-Fi, just past the Carraia Bridge at Via Borgo San Frediano 6, tel. 055-290-424, www.soggiornoalessandra.it, info@soggiornoalessandra.it, Alessandra).
$ Casa Santo Nome di Gesù is a grand, 25-room convent whose sisters—Franciscan Missionaries of Mary—are thankful to rent rooms to tourists. Staying in this 15th-century palace, you’ll be immersed in the tranquil atmosphere created by a huge, peaceful garden, generous and prayerful public spaces, and smiling nuns. As with the Istituto Gould, next, it’s a good value and understandably popular—it’s best to reserve a couple of months in advance (Db-€85, Tb-€115, Qb-€135, book direct to avoid fees, no air-con but rooms have fans, elevator, Wi-Fi in common areas, memorable convent-like breakfast room, 1:00 in the morning curfew, parking-€10, Piazza del Carmine 21, tel. 055-213-856, www.fmmfirenze.it, info@fmmfirenze.it).
$ Istituto Gould is a Protestant Church-run place with 40 clean and spartan rooms that have twin beds and modern facilities. It’s located in a 17th-century palace overlooking a beautiful garden courtyard. The complex also houses kids from troubled homes, and proceeds raised from renting rooms help fund that important work (Sb-€55, Db-€60, €20 more for garden rooms that are quieter and have air-con, Tb-€84, Qb-€100, breakfast-€6, non-air-con rooms have fans, Wi-Fi in lobby, Via dei Serragli 49, tel. 055-212-576, www.istitutogould.it, foresteriafirenze@diaconiavaldese.org). You must arrive when the office is open (Mon-Fri 8:45-13:00 & 15:00-19:30, Sat 9:00-13:30 & 14:30-18:00, no live check-in on Sundays but they’ll email you a code).
Hostel: $ Ostello Santa Monaca is a well-run, institutional-feeling hostel a long block east of the Brancacci Chapel. As clean as its guests, its 114 beds in 13 rooms (2- to 22-bed dorms) attract a young backpacking crowd (€18-26/bed, includes sheets and towel, 10:00-14:00 lock-out, 2:00 in the morning curfew, guest computer, Wi-Fi, self-serve laundry, kitchen, bike rental, Via Santa Monaca 6, tel. 055-268-338, www.ostellosantamonaca.com, info@ostellosantamonaca.com).
The Tuscan countryside south of Florence is loaded with rural farms offering accommodations, called agriturismi (for details, see here).
There are several places south of Florence to consider that are within 30 minutes of the city. The rustic and cozy $$$ Villa Salvadonica has a gorgeous setting overlooking rolling Tuscan hills (Db-€185, superior rooms and suites also available, Via Grevigiana 82, Mercatale Val di Pesa, tel. 055-821-8039, www.salvadonica.com, info@salvadonica.it). $$$ Villa Il Poggiale is a serene manor house with classy and spacious rooms and expansive countryside views (Db-€170, Via Empolese 69, San Casciano Val di Pesa, tel. 055-828-311, www.villailpoggiale.it, villailpoggiale@villailpoggiale.it). The spa hotel $$ Villa I Barronci offers a relaxing respite from sightseeing (Db-€129, Via Sorripa 10, San Casciano Val di Pesa, tel. 055-820-598, www.ibarronci.com, info@ibarronci.com).
Another option about 45 minutes south of Florence is in the Chianti region: $$$ I Greppi di Silli is a lovely, family-run agriturismo set among rolling hills. Owners Anna and Giuliano Alfani cultivate Chianti grapes and olive trees, and offer six carefully remodeled apartments with beds for 2-6 people, some with panoramic views and/or terraces; a seventh apartment (sleeps 8) is a mile away in an old country house (Db-€115-280 or €735-1,900/week, price depends on apartment, less off-season; one-week minimum—Sat-to-Sat—in July-Aug, fewer nights possible in shoulder and low season—but generally still a 3-night minimum; breakfast extra, pool, kids’ play area, table tennis, bocce ball court, loaner bikes, weekly farm dinners-€30/person—less for kids, Via Vallacchio 19, near San Casciano and just outside the village of Mercatale Val di Pesa, about 45 minutes’ drive to Florence or San Gimignano and one hour from Siena, tel. 055-821-7956, www.igreppidisilli.it, igreppidisilli@gmail.com).
Restaurants like to serve what’s fresh. If you’re into flavor, go for the seasonal best bets—featured in the piatti del giorno (“specials of the day”) section on menus. For dessert, it’s gelato (see sidebar, later).
To save money and time for sights, keep lunches fast and simple, eating at one of the countless sandwich shops and stands, pizzerias, or self-service cafeterias. Picnicking is easy—there’s no shortage of corner supermercatos, or you can picnic your way through Mercato Centrale. You’ll find a unique range of sandwich options in Florence. In addition to the basic panino (here, that’s usually on a baguette), crostini (open-faced sandwich on toasted baguette), and semel (a big, puffy roll), you’ll see places advertising schiaccata (sandwich made with a “squashed,” focaccia-like bread). Florence is home to many carts selling tripe sandwiches—a prized local specialty.
Foodies should consider purchasing Elizabeth Minchilli’s excellent app, Eat Florence, which has thorough descriptions of all things food-related in the city (www.elizabethminchilliinrome.com).
If you’d like to combine a meal with the opportunity to learn how to cook some Italian dishes, see the end of this section for a rundown of some of the many cooking classes offered in Florence.
(See “Florence Restaurants” map, here.)
Florence’s Industrial Age, steel-and-glass Mercato Centrale (Central Market) has undergone an exciting resurgence in recent years. The ground floor has always been a fun-to-explore food wonderland of vendors selling meat, fish, produce, and other staples to a mostly local clientele, plus some lunch-only food counters. But in 2014, the upstairs—long a gloomy and neglected no-man’s land—underwent a complete refurbishment and is now poised to become a global foodie mecca, with a chichi food court and several restaurants that are open late into the evening. As this is a rapidly gentrifying scene, expect changes as this space continues to evolve.
Upstairs: Under a gleaming glass roof and stylish giant wicker lampshades, a dozen upscale food counters (each labeled with the type of food and proprietor—a Who’s Who of Florentine chefs and restaurant-world insiders) let you browse for your perfect meal. Grab what you want—pizza, pasta, fish, meat, salumi, lampredotto, wine, and so on—and pull up a stool at one of the food-court tables between the stalls. Higher up, there are also restaurants with designated seating and table service: a more casual pizzeria on one side, and a more formal place on the other. The eateries up here are open much longer hours than the traditional, downstairs places—they’re fine for lunch or dinner (daily 10:00-24:00, www.mercatocentrale.it). Before choosing, be sure to browse a full circuit around the scene to know your options.
Ground Floor: The market zone, with lots of raw ingredients and a few humble food counters, is open only through lunchtime (Mon-Fri 7:00-14:00, Sat 7:00-17:00, closed Sun). Buy a picnic of fresh mozzarella cheese, olives, fruit, and crunchy bread to munch on the steps of the nearby Church of San Lorenzo. The fancy deli, Perini, is famous for its quality (pricey) products and enticing display. But for a sit-down meal, head for the venerable Nerbone in the Market. Join the shoppers and workers who crowd up to the bar to grab their €4-7 plates, and then find a stool at the cramped shared tables nearby. Of the several cheap market diners, this feels the most authentic (lunch menu served Mon-Sat 12:00-14:00, sandwiches available from 8:00 until the bread runs out, closed Sun, cash only, inside Mercato Centrale on the side closest to the Church of San Lorenzo, mobile 339-648-0251).
(See “Florence Restaurants” map, here.)
If you can’t find what you want in the market itself, consider one of these alternatives on the surrounding streets. My recommended eateries are all within a few blocks of each other, and each has its own distinct vibe, so scout around to choose your favorite. As this area is close to the “tourist ghetto” zone—near many hotels and San Lorenzo Market—these eateries skew to an especially touristy clientele.
Trattoria Mario’s has been serving hearty lunches to market-goers since 1953 (Fabio and Romeo are the latest generation). Their simple formula: no-frills, bustling service, old-fashioned good value, and shared tables. It’s cucina casalinga—home cooking con brio. This place is high-energy and jam-packed. Their best dishes often sell out first, so go early. If there’s a line, put your name on the list (€5-6 pastas, €8 secondi, cash only, Mon-Sat 12:00-15:30, closed Sun and Aug, no reservations, Via Rosina 2, tel. 055-218-550).
Casa del Vino, Florence’s oldest operating wine shop, offers glasses of wine from among 25 open bottles (see the list tacked to the bar). Owner Gianni, whose family has owned the Casa for more than 70 years, is a class act. Gianni’s carta dei panini lists delightful €3.50 sandwiches and €1 crostini; the I Nostri Panini (classic sandwiches) richly reward adventurous eaters. Their €4-5 taglierini (sampler platters) offer nibbles of various local salumi (cured meats) and cheeses. During busy times, it’s a mob scene. You’ll eat standing outside alongside workers on a quick lunch break (Mon-Fri 9:30-20:00 year-round, Sat 9:30-17:00 Sept-June only, closed Sun year-round and Sat in summer, near Mercato Centrale at Via dell’Ariento 16 red, tel. 055-215-609).
Trattoria Zà-Zà screams “tourist trap” with big photo menus, touts out front, and covered terrace seating on a little square facing Mercato Centrale. And yet, for some reason, it remains a top recommendation among locals. Maybe it’s because they offer a family-friendly festival of standard Tuscan dishes, such as ribollita and bistecca alla fiorentina, plus a variety of big, splittable €8 salads. Arrive early (before 19:30), make a reservation, or stand in line. Choose between the colorful interior or the outdoor piazza. Understand your itemized bill, and don’t mistake their outside seating with the neighboring restaurant’s (€8-11 pastas, €11-16 secondi, daily 11:00-23:00, Piazza del Mercato Centrale 26 red, tel. 055-215-411, www.trattoriazaza.it). Their bar/osteria, nearby, has a similar menu (with a few differences, including more taglieri options—cheese-and-meat plates), a trendier-feeling interior, and a smaller, more open outdoor-dining zone.
Pepò, a colorful and charmingly unpretentious space tucked just around the corner from the Zà-Zà glitz, handles its neighbor’s overflow admirably. With a short menu of simple but well-prepared Florentine classics, it’s an easy neighborhood fallback where you won’t feel like you’ve settled for second-best (€9-10 pastas, €11-14 secondi, daily 12:00-14:30 & 19:00-22:30, Via Rosina 4/6 red, tel. 055-283-259).
Trattoria la Burrasca is Flintstone-chic. Friendly Elio and his staff offer a limited menu with good-value seasonal specials of Tuscan home cooking. It’s small, with just 14 tables—and often a copy of this guidebook on every one (it’s typically filled with my readers). If Archie Bunker were Italian, he’d eat at this trattoria for special nights out (€6-7 pastas, €8-14 secondi, no cover or service charge, Tue-Sun 12:00-15:00 & 19:00-22:30, closed Mon, Via Panicale 6, north corner of Mercato Centrale, tel. 055-215-827).
Beer Hall: To get a taste of Italy’s growing obsession with microbrews, nurse a pint at the rollicking Mostodolce, a “birrificio artigianale” (craft brewery). They serve nine different craft beers—their own production—and basic €6-10 pub grub to appreciative, raucous, youthful patrons who pin their drawings to the walls and spill out onto the street (daily 11:00-24:00, Via Nazionale 114 red, tel. 055-230-2928).
(See “Florence Restaurants” map, here.)
Self-Service Ristorante Leonardo is an inexpensive, air-conditioned, quick, and handy cafeteria. It feels no-frills and old-school, but the food is better than many table-service eateries in this part of town. Stefano and Luciano (like Pavarotti) run the place with enthusiasm and put out free pitchers of tap water. It’s just a block from the Duomo, southwest of the Baptistery (€5 primi, €6-7 main courses, lots of veggies, daily 11:45-14:45 & 18:45-21:45, closed Sat Nov-March, upstairs at Via Pecori 11, tel. 055-284-446).
Paszkowski, a grand café on Piazza della Repubblica, serves up inexpensive, quick lunches. At the display case, order a salad or €6 plate of pasta or cooked veggies (or half-and-half for €7), pay the cashier, and find a seat upstairs. Better yet, eat at one of the tables on the square—you can sit on the right side of the terrace for no extra charge...but note that the full-table service prices are much more expensive (daily 7:00-24:00, lunch served 12:00-15:00, closed Mon off-season, Piazza della Repubblica 35 red—northwest corner, tel. 055-210-236).
Gourmet Mini-Mall with Food Counters: EATaly is an outpost of the small but growing chain of foodie mini-malls that are popping up in big Italian cities (as well as in New York City, thanks to part-owner Mario Batali). This slick, modern space just a half-block from the Duomo offers several food options under one roof: a soft-serve gelato counter and tempting pastry shop (just inside the door); a grocery store for top-end Italian ingredients and kitchen gadgets; and, in back, a cluster of food counters serving €9-12 pastas and pizzas and €10-16 secondi, including daily specials. If you don’t have time to browse the markets and corner stores, this could be a handy place for a pricey, one-stop surgical strike to assemble a gourmet picnic or to stock up on edible souvenirs (Mon-Sat 9:00-22:30, Sun 10:00-22:30, restaurants closed before 12:00 and 15:30-19:00, Via de’ Martelli 22 red, tel. 055-015-3601).
Döner Kebabs: Good places to try this cheap Middle Eastern specialty include Turkuaz, a couple of blocks northeast of the Duomo (Via dei Servi 65) and Istanbul Döner Kebap (Via dei Benci 18 red, just south of Santa Croce).
Smoothies: For something a little more green, Veggy is a hole-in-the-wall serving inexpensive piadine, fresh salads, and fruit and veggie “shakes” to go (Mon-Sat 10:00-19:30, closed Sun, steps north of the Duomo at Via dei Servi 8 red, tel. 348-651-0507).
(See “Florence Restaurants” map, here.)
Piazza della Signoria, the scenic square facing Palazzo Vecchio, is ringed by beautifully situated yet touristy eateries serving overpriced, bad-value, and probably microwaved food. If you’re determined to eat on the square, have pizza at Ristorante il Cavallino or bar food from the Irish pub next door. Piazza della Signoria’s saving grace is Rivoire café, famous for its fancy desserts and thick hot chocolate (€7). While obscenely expensive, it has the best view tables on the square. Stand at the bar with the locals and pay way less (Tue-Sun 7:30-24:00, closed Mon, tel. 055-214-412).
(See “Florence Restaurants” map, here.)
Osteria Vini e Vecchi Sapori, half a block north of Palazzo Vecchio, is a colorful eatery serving Tuscan food with a fun, accessible menu of delicious €8-10 pastas and €9-15 secondi (Mon-Sat 12:30-14:30 & 19:30-22:30, closed Sun, reserve for dinner; facing the bronze equestrian statue in Piazza della Signoria, go behind its tail into the corner and to your left; Via dei Magazzini 3 red, tel. 055-293-045, run by Mario while wife Rosanna cooks and son Thomas serves).
Frescobaldi Ristorante and Wine Bar, the showcase of Italy’s aristocratic wine family, is a good choice for a formal dinner in Florence. Candlelight reflects off glasses of wine, and high-vaulted ceilings complement the sophisticated dishes. They offer the same seasonal menu in three different dining areas: cozy interior, tight wine bar, and breezy terrace. If coming for dinner, make a reservation and dress up (€11-15 appetizers and pastas, €19-26 secondi, lighter wine-bar menu at lunch, daily 12:00-14:30 & 19:00-22:30, closed the middle of Aug, air-con, half a block north of Palazzo Vecchio at Via dei Magazzini 2-4 red, tel. 055-284-724, www.deifrescobaldi.it, Duccio).
(See “Florence Restaurants” map, here.)
Cantinetta dei Verrazzano, a long-established bakery/café/wine bar, serves delightful sandwich plates in an old-time setting. Their selezione Verrazzano is a fine plate of four little crostini (like mini-bruschetta) proudly featuring different breads, cheeses, and meats from the Chianti region (€7.50). The tagliere di focacce, a sampler plate of mini-focaccia sandwiches, is also fun (€16 for big plate for two). Add a €6 glass of Chianti to either of these dishes to make a fine, light meal. Office workers pop in for a quick lunch, and it’s traditional to share tables. Be warned: Prices can add up here in a hurry (Mon-Sat 8:00-21:00, Sun 10:00-16:30, no reservations taken, just off Via de’ Calzaiuoli, across from Orsanmichele Church at Via dei Tavolini 18, tel. 055-268-590). They also have benches and tiny tables for eating at takeout prices. Simply step to the back and point to a hot focacce sandwich (€3), order a drink at the bar, and take away your food or sit with Florentines and watch the action while you munch. For dessert, consider their tempting display case of delicious cakes.
I Fratellini is a hole-in-the-wall where the “little brothers” have served peasants 29 different kinds of sandwiches and cheap glasses of Chianti wine (see list on wall) since 1875. Join the local crowd to order, then sit on a nearby curb to eat, placing your glass on the wall rack before you leave (€3 sandwiches, daily 9:00-19:30 or until the bread runs out, closed Sun in winter, 20 yards in front of Orsanmichele Church on Via dei Cimatori, tel. 055-239-6096). Be adventurous with the menu (easy-order by number). Consider finocchiona e caprino (#15, a Tuscan salami and soft goat cheese), lardo di Colonnata (#22, cured lard aged in Carrara marble), and cinghiale (#19, spicy boar salami) sandwiches. Order the most expensive wine they’re selling by the glass (€5 for a medium pour of Brunello; bottles are labeled).
Wine Bar near Ponte Vecchio: ’Ino is a mod little shop filled with gifty edibles. Alessandro and his staff serve €5-8 sandwiches and €3.50 glasses of wine—you’ll munch your meal while perched on a tiny stool. They can also make a fine €9-12 piatto misto of cheeses and meats with bread (daily 11:30-16:30, immediately behind Uffizi Gallery courtyard on Ponte Vecchio side, between olive tree and river, Via dei Georgofili 7 red, tel. 055-219-208).
Cheap Takeout on Via Dante Alighieri: Three handy places line up on this street, just a couple of blocks from the Duomo. L’Antico Trippaio, a food cart, is a fixture in the town center. Cheap and authentic as can be, this is where locals come daily for €4-7 sandwiches (panini), featuring specialties like trippa (tripe), lampredotto, and a list of more appetizing options, including bollito. Lisa, Maurizio, and Roberto offer a free plastic glass of rotgut Chianti with each sandwich for travelers with this book (daily 9:00-21:00, on Via Dante Alighieri, mobile 339-742-5692). Pizzeria Totò, just next to the tripe stand, has good €2.50-3 slices (daily 10:30-23:00, Via Dante Alighieri 28 red, tel. 055-290-406). And a few steps in the opposite direction is a Metà supermarket, with cheap drinks and snacks and a fine antipasti case inside (daily 8:30-21:30, Sun from 9:00, Via Dante Alighieri 20-24). If you pick up lunch at any of these, the best people-watching place to enjoy your sandwich is three blocks away, on Piazza della Signoria.
More Sandwich Shops in the Historic Center: Two additional handy, well-regarded places to grab a €4 sandwich are Da’ Vinattieri, just a half-block from the Duomo (schiaccata sandwiches plus trippa and lampredotto, daily 10:00-19:30, next to Casa di Dante at Via Santa Margherita 4 red); and Il Cernacchino (panino sandwiches, Mon-Sat 9:30-19:30, closed Sun, just north of Palazzo Vecchio at Via della Condotta 38 red, tel. 055-294-119). For something substantially more upscale, yet still affordable, stop by Panini Tartufati Procacci—right along Florence’s most genteel boutique-browsing street. This wine bar, with a swanky, circa-1885 atmosphere, specializes in pungent truffle-scented ingredients: €5 panini and €9-18 sampler plates of salumi and cheeses. While the platters are pricey, the sandwiches may be Florence’s cheapest way to dine on truffles (Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00, closed Sun, Via Tornabuoni 64 red, tel. 055-211-656).
Italy’s best ice cream is in Florence. But beware of scams at touristy joints on busy streets that turn a simple request for a cone into a €10 “tourist special” rip-off. To avoid this, survey the size options and specify what you want—for example, un cono da tre euro (a €3 cone). For more gelato tips, see here.
All of these places, which are a cut above, are open daily for long hours.
Near the Accademia: A Sicilian choice on a tourist thoroughfare, Gelateria Carabè is particularly famous for its luscious granite—Italian ices made with fresh fruit. A cremolata is a granita with a dollop of gelato—a delicious combination (from the Accademia, it’s a block toward the Duomo at Via Ricasoli 60 red).
Near the Duomo: Grom used to be a strictly boutique gelateria, but its smart and aggressive expansion plan has now conquered Italy and beyond (with branches in New York City and Malibu). While they tout their organic ingredients and seasonally changing menu, that claim carries a bit less weight coming from a global chain. But the quality is still reasonably good—as the line you’ll frequently see here attests—and the location is handy to the Duomo area (Via delle Oche 24 red). Just up Via Cavour from the Duomo, the EATaly foodie superstore has a unique soft-serve gelato counter just inside the door (Via de’ Martelli 22 red).
Near Orsanmichele Church: Perchè No! is located dead-central—just off the busy main pedestrian drag, Via de’ Calzaiuoli—and it’s surprisingly good, much better than similar-seeming places nearby. They serve up a few unusual flavors, to boot (Via dei Tavolini 19).
Near Ponte Vecchio: Carapina is a mod gelateria with some pleasantly atypical flavors, seasonal ingredients, and a loyal following (Via Lambertesca 18 red).
Near the Church of Santa Croce: Florentines flock to Gelateria de’ Neri, with an enticingly wide array of flavors (Via dei Neri 9 red). Nearby, the venerable Vivoli’s still has great gelato—but it’s more expensive, and stingy in its servings. Before ordering, try a free sample of their rice flavor—riso (opposite the Church of Santa Croce, go down Via Torta a block and turn right on Via Stinche).
Across the River: If you want an excuse to check out the little village-like neighborhood across the river from Santa Croce (or are walking to Piazzale Michelangelo), enjoy a gelato at the tiny Il Gelato di Filo (named for Filippo and Lorenzo) at Via San Miniato 5 red, a few steps toward the river from Porta San Miniato. Foodies and connoisseurs rank Filo as one of Florence’s best (and in this city, that’s really saying something). Gelato chef Edmir is proud of his fruity sorbet as well. Closer to the main sights (roughly between Pitti Palace and Brancacci Chapel), Gelateria della Passera is another good, popular, classy choice (Via Toscanella 15).
(See “Florence Restaurants” map, here.)
There aren’t many appealing sit-down restaurants in the boring streets near the Accademia (though two excellent choices, Da Tito and La Cafaggi, aren’t too far away and are worth a detour—described later). But hungry tourists looking for a quick lunch between sightseeing stops find plenty of options. My favorite plan is to picnic in the ultimate Renaissance square: Grab a takeout bite at one of these places, then hike around the block and join the bums on Piazza S.S. Annunziata, the first Renaissance square in Florence (don’t confuse this with the less-interesting Piazza San Marco, closer to the supermarket). There’s a fountain for washing fruit on the square. Grab a stony seat anywhere you like, and savor one of my favorite cheap Florence eating experiences.
Due Sorsi e un Boccone (“Two Sips and a Bite”), just around the corner from David, serves just that: €1 glasses of house wine and €3.50 savory or sweet crêpes and made-to-order schiacciate (sandwiches on flattened, foccacia-like bread). Order your food to go, or squeeze into the tight interior (just a few counters and tall stools). It’s run with a fresh, youthful attitude and jammed with local students at lunchtime (Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00, closed Sat-Sun, Via degli Alfani 105 red, mobile 334-264-0931).
La Mescita Fiaschetteria is a characteristic hole-in-the-wall a few steps farther down the same street, where locals and students enjoy €5-6 pasta plates, €6-8 secondi, or hearty €2.50 sandwiches with good €1.50 house wine. The place can either be mobbed by students or a peaceful time warp, depending on when you stop by. Mirco and Alessio are gregarious to the point of being a bit pushy...order carefully and check your bill (Mon-Sat 10:45-16:00, closed Sun, Via degli Alfani 70 red, mobile 338-992-2640).
Il Centro Supermercati, a handy supermarket a half-block north of the Accademia, has a curbside sandwich bar (Panineria); you’ll order your sandwich at the bar, then head inside the supermarket to pick up any other provisions and pay (Mon-Sat 8:30-20:00, Sun 10:00-15:00, sandwich counter may close earlier, Via Ricasoli 109 red).
Sit-Down Lunch in a Classy Café: Pasticceria Robiglio, a smart little café, opens up its stately dining area and sets out a few tables on the sidewalk for lunch. They have a small menu of daily pasta and secondi specials, and seem determined to do things like they did in the elegant, pre-tourism days. Before you leave, be tempted by their pastries—famous among Florentines (generous €9-10 plates, a great €8 niçoise-like “fantasy salad,” pretty pastries, smiling service, daily 12:00-15:00, longer hours as a café, a block toward the Duomo off Piazza S.S. Annunziata at Via dei Servi 112 red, tel. 055-212-784).
(See “Florence Restaurants” map, here.)
These two places—within a 5- to 10-minute walk of the Accademia—are worth going out of your way for to get a memorable meal.
Antica Trattoria da Tito, a 10-minute hike from the Accademia along Via San Gallo, can be fun if you want a long, drawn-out event of a meal with a local crowd and smart-aleck service. The boss, Bobo, serves quality traditional food and lots of wine. While the food is good, there’s no pretense—it’s just a playground of Tuscan cuisine with “no romance allowed.” The music is vintage 1980s and can be loud. To gorge on a feast of antipasti (cold cuts, cheeses, a few veggies, and bruschetta), consider ordering fermami (literally “stop me”)—for €17, Bobo brings you food until you say, “Fermami!” A couple can get fermami, desserts, and a nice bottle of wine for around €60 total. As this is a popular place, they say that reservations are “almost obligatory” (€6-10 pastas, €10-18 secondi, €17 gran tagliere—big plate of cheese and meat, travelers with this book get a free after-dinner drink, Mon-Sat 12:30-15:00 & 19:00-23:00, closed Sun, Via San Gallo 112 red, tel. 055-472-475, www.trattoriadatito.it).
Ristorante Cafaggi fills a bright, sophisticated-but-not-snobby space on a drab street between the Accademia and Mercato Centrale. With a vaguely 1950s vibe, it feels like it’s been retro since before it was “retro.” Family-run since 1922, with Grandma and Grandpa still puttering around and lending a hand, this place feels devoted to good cuisine, with a thoughtfully planned menu and recipes posted on their website. The service can be a bit shy; the emphasis here is their generations-old passion for Florentine food. In addition to flawlessly executed renditions of many of the local favorites described on here, notice that the menu includes more challenging-yet-authentic dishes, such as tripe and brains (€8-10 pastas, €12-16 secondi, Mon-Sat 12:30-15:00 & 19:00-22:00, closed Sun, Via Guelfa 35 red, tel. 055-294-989, www.ristorantecafaggi.com).
(See “Florence Restaurants” map, here.)
Ristorante del Fagioli, an enthusiastically run eatery where you can sense the heritage, just feels real. The dad, Gigi, commands the kitchen while family members Antonio, Maurizio, and Simone keep the throngs of loyal customers returning. The cuisine: home-style bread-soups, hearty steaks, and other Florentine classics. Don’t worry—while fagioli means “beans,” that’s the family name, not the extent of the menu (€9-12 pastas and secondi, cash only, Mon-Fri 12:30-14:30 & 19:30-22:30, closed Sat-Sun, reserve for dinner, a block north of the Alle Grazie bridge at Corso dei Tintori 47, tel. 055-244-285).
Trattoria Anita, midway between the Uffizi and Santa Croce, feels old-school, with wood paneling and rows of wine bottles. Brothers Nicola, Gianni, and Maurizio offer a good-value lunch special: three hearty Tuscan courses for €10 on weekdays (€7-8 pastas, €7-13 secondi, Mon-Sat 12:00-14:30 & 19:00-22:15, closed Sun, on the corner of Via Vinegia and Via del Parlagio at 2 red, tel. 055-218-698).
Trattoria I’cche C’è C’è (EE-kay chay chay; dialect for “whatever there is, there is”) is a small, tourist-crammed, family-style restaurant where fun-loving Gino, his wife Mara, and their son Jacopo serve functional Florentine dishes. It’s worth considering for budget travelers who want an affordable sit-down meal in a lively locale—their €13 three-course, fixed-price meal is a good deal, if high cuisine is not your priority (also €7-12 pastas, €12-18 secondi, Tue-Sun 12:30-14:30 & 19:30-22:30, closed Mon and two weeks in Aug, midway between Bargello and river at Via Magalotti 11 red, tel. 055-216-589).
Quick Lunch Places Behind Palazzo Vecchio: Via dei Neri, which runs behind Palazzo Vecchio and the Uffizi exit toward Santa Croce, seems to specialize in sightseers seeking lunch between landmarks. Clearly the most popular is All’Antico Vinaio, a photogenic Florentine favorite, which offers two options: You can either stand in the street, grabbing a €5 sandwich and pouring your own wine (€2/glass), or head across the street to their osteria to sit down and order from a more extensive menu (Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-16:00, Via dei Neri 65 red, tel. 055-238-2723). If Vinaio is just too overrun, a few doors down is the quieter Club del Gusto, with friendly owner/chef Paolo. Grab a salad or sandwich to carry away, or enjoy a made-to-order pasta plate at a table in back (€5 crostini and pastas, €6 small secondi, daily 9:00-24:00, Via dei Neri 50 red, tel. 348-090-3142).
(See “Florence Restaurants” map, here.)
Trattoria Sostanza-Troia, characteristic and well-established, is famous for its beef. Hearty steaks and pastas are splittable. Whirling ceiling fans and walls strewn with old photos evoke earlier times, while the artichoke pies remind locals of Grandma’s cooking. Crowded, shared tables with vinyl tablecloths give the place the feel of a simple bistro. Reservations are always a good idea but essential for dinner, during which they offer two seatings, at 19:30 and 21:00 (€9-11 pastas, €12-18 secondi, cash only, lunch served Mon-Sat 12:30-14:00, closed Sun, closed Sat off-season, Via del Porcellana 25 red, tel. 055-212-691).
Trattoria Marione serves sincerely home cooked-style meals to a mixed group of tourists and Florentines beneath hanging ham hocks. The ambience is happy, crowded, food-loving, and a bit frantic (€9-12 pastas, €10-13 secondi, daily 12:00-17:00 & 19:00-23:00, Via della Spada 27 red, tel. 055-214-756, Fabio).
Trattoria al Trebbio serves traditional food, especially rabbit and steak, in a throwback Florentine setting. Inside, enjoy the old movie posters and garlands of garlic, or grab one of the few tables outside (€7-10 pastas, €10-14 secondi, daily 12:00-15:00 & 19:00-23:00, half a block off of Piazza Santa Maria Novella at Via delle Belle Donne 47 red, tel. 055-287-089, Antonio).
Trattoria “da Giorgio” is a family-style diner on a sketchy street serving up piping-hot, simple home cooking to happy locals and tourists alike. Their three-course, fixed-price meal, including water and a drink, is a great value (€13 at lunch, €14 at dinner). Choose from among the daily specials or the regular menu. This place is completely without pretense—ideal for a cheap but fun night out (Mon-Sat 12:00-14:30 & 18:30-22:00, closed Sun, Via Palazzuolo 100 red, tel. 055-284-302, Silvano).
(See “Florence Restaurants” map, here.)
If you’re willing to pay way too much to nurse a drink surrounded by Florentine splendor, head to one of these rooftop terraces.
Caffè La Terrazza, at the top of La Rinascente department store overlooking Piazza della Repubblica (and described on here), is the slightly more lowbrow, more affordable option, with one of the best views in Florence of the nearby Duomo, which looms gloriously on the horizon (€6 coffee drinks).
Sesio, perched on the top floor of the luxurious Westin Hotel on Piazza Ognissanti, charges outrageous prices for cocktails (€15 and up; €6 coffee drinks) with amazing views of the Florence skyline. As you’re at the eastern edge of town, the city lines up before you: Duomo, Palazzo Vecchio, Ponte Vecchio, Pitti Palace. To turn your pricey drink into a light dinner, come by during their aperitivo happy hour (19:00-21:00), when your €15 drink includes access to a little buffet, giving you something to nibble as the sun sinks low in the sky and bathes the skyline in a spotlight (daily 12:00-24:00, Piazza Ognissanti 3, tel. 055-27151). This is a nice finale to a shopping stroll down Borgo Santi Apostoli and Borgo Ognissanti.
In general, dining in the Oltrarno offers a more authentic experience; although it’s quite close to the old center, tourists imagine that it’s another world and tend to stay away. At many of these places, Florentines may even outnumber my readers. For locations, see the map on here.
(See “Oltrarno Restaurants” map, here.)
Golden View Open Bar is a lively, trendy bistro, good for a romantic meal or just a salad, pizza, or pasta with fine wine and a fine view of Ponte Vecchio and the Arno River. Its white, minimalist interior is a stark contrast to atmospheric old Florence. Reservations for window tables are essential unless you drop in early for dinner (€10 pizzas, €11-16 pastas, big €13 salads, €20-30 secondi, daily 11:30-24:00, impressive wine bar, 50 yards east of Ponte Vecchio at Via dei Bardi 58, tel. 055-214-502, mobile 333-475-7400, www.goldenviewopenbar.com, run by Antonio, Marco, and Tommaso). They have four seating areas (with the same menu and prices) for whatever mood you’re in: a riverside pizza place, a classier restaurant, a jazzy lounge, and a wine bar (they also serve a buffet of appetizers free with your €10-12 drink from 19:00 to 21:30). Mixing their fine wine, river views, and live jazz makes for a wonderful evening (jazz Mon, Wed, Fri, and Sat nights at 21:00).
(See “Oltrarno Restaurants” map, here.)
Of the many good and colorful restaurants in the Oltrarno, these are my favorites. Reservations are a good idea in the evening.
Il Santo Bevitore Ristorante, lit like a Rembrandt painting and filled with dressy tables, serves creative Tuscan cuisine. They’re enthusiastic about matching quality produce from the area with the right wine. This is a good break from the big, sloppy plates of pasta you’ll get at many Florence eateries (€9-12 pastas, €8-12 meat-and-cheese taglieri, €10-18 secondi, good wine list by the glass or bottle, daily 12:30-14:30 & 19:30-22:30, closed Sun for lunch, come early or make reservations, no outside seating, Via di Santo Spirito 64, tel. 055-211-264, www.ilsantobevitore.com). Their smaller wine bar next door, Enoteca Il Santino Gastronomia, feels like the perfect after-work hangout for foodies who’d like a glass of wine and some light food. Tight, cozy, and atmospheric, one wall is occupied by the bar, where you can assemble an €8-12 tagliere of local cheeses and salumi (also available to take away). They also have a few €6-8 hot dishes. Both the food and the wine are locally sourced from small producers (daily 12:30-23:00, Via di Santo Spirito 60 red, no reservations, tel. 055-230-2820).
Trattoria 4 Leoni creates the quintessential Oltrarno dinner scene, and is understandably popular with tourists. The Tuscan-style food is made with an innovative twist and an appreciation for vegetables. You’ll enjoy the fun energy and characteristic seating, both outside on the colorful square, Piazza della Passera, and inside, where you’ll dine in exposed-stone sophistication. While the wines by the glass are pricey, the house wine is good (€10-14 primi, €12-15 secondi, daily 12:00-24:00, dinner reservations smart; from Ponte Vecchio walk four blocks up Via de’ Guicciardini, turn right on Via dello Sprone, then slightly left to Via de’ Vellutini 1; tel. 055-218-562, www.4leoni.com).
Antico Ristoro Di’ Cambi is a meat lover’s dream—thick with Tuscan traditions, rustic touches, and T-bone steaks. The bustling scene has a memorable, beer-hall energy. As you walk in, you’ll pass a glass case filled with red chunks of Chianina beef that’s priced by weight (for the famous bistecca alla fiorentina, €40/kilo, standard serving is half a kilo per person). Before you OK your investment, they’ll show you the cut and tell you the weight. While the steak comes nearly uncooked, it’s air-dried for 21 days so it’s not really raw, just very tasty and tender—it’ll make you happy you’re at the top of the food chain. Sit inside the convivial woody interior or outside on a square (€8-10 pastas, €10-18 secondi, Mon-Sat 12:00-14:30 & 18:30-22:30, closed Sun, reserve on weekends and to sit outside, Via Sant’Onofrio 1 red, one block south of Ponte Amerigo Vespucci, see map on here, tel. 055-217-134, www.anticoristorodicambi.it, run by Stefano and Fabio, the Cambi cousins).
Olio & Convivium Gastronomia is primarily a catering company for top-end events, and this is where they showcase their cooking. It started as an elegant deli whose refined olive-oil-tasting room morphed into a romantic, aristocratic restaurant. Their three intimate rooms are surrounded by fine prosciutti, cheeses, and wine shelves. It can seem intimidating and a little pretentious, but well-dressed foodies will appreciate this place for its quiet atmosphere. Their list of €14-25 gastronomia plates offers an array of taste treats and fine wines by the glass (€14-18 pastas, €20-22 secondi, stylish €18 lunches with wine, Tue-Sun 12:00-14:30 & 19:00-22:30, closed Mon, strong air-con, Via di Santo Spirito 4, tel. 055-265-8198, Tommaso).
Trattoria da Sergio is a tiny eatery about a block before Porta San Frediano, one of Florence’s medieval gates. It has charm and a strong following, so reservations are a must. The food is on the gourmet side of home-cooking—mama’s favorites with a modern twist—and therefore a bit more expensive (€9-10 primi, €12-18 secondi, Mon-Sat 12:00-14:00 & 19:30-22:45, Sun 12:00-14:00 only, Borgo San Frediano 145 red, see map on here, tel. 055-223-449, Sergio and Marco).
Trattoria Al Tranvai, with tight seating and small dark-wood tables, looks like an old-time tram filled with the neighborhood gang. A 10-minute walk from the river at the edge of the Oltrarno, it feels like a small town’s favorite eatery (€8-10 pastas, €10-13 secondi, Mon 19:00-24:00, Tue-Sat 12:30-14:30 & 19:30-22:30, closed Sun; from the Brancacci Chapel, go south on Via del Leone 5 minutes to Piazza T. Tasso 14 red—see map on here; tel. 055-225-197, www.altranvai.it).
Via di San Niccolò: This charming little street—the Oltrarno’s “hipster corner”—can be a fun place for young foodies to explore. There’s a convivial neighborhood pizzeria, an enoteca, a rollicking and youthful bar (Il Baretto del Rifrullo), and a gelateria scooping up some of Florence’s best ice cream (Neri—see here). For those looking to dine, two eateries anchor the square: Antica Mescita San Niccolò, with traditional decor but a modern approach, feels like the grandkids took over Nonno’s trattoria. Technically a wine bar, they also serve up Tuscan standbys. Check out their cellar, which is built in what was a thousand-year-old church crypt (€9 pastas, €14 secondi, daily 12:00-24:00, Via San Niccolò 60 red, tel. 055-234-2836). Zeb is a tight, mod, minimalist wine bar/deli with one long counter (just two dozen seats) flanked by tall stools. Although the name is short for zuppe e bolliti (“soup and boiled meats”), they dish up all types of well-executed and elegantly presented Florentine food. The chalkboard menu lists homemade pastas and meat and fish secondi. Portions are large and fun to share. While smiley Mama Guiseppina is charming, her son Alberto—who interacts with the English-speaking clients—didn’t quite inherit her warmth. The clientele is a mix of tipsy regulars and international foodies seeking a slightly fresher take on Italian classics. Dinner reservations are smart (€8-12 pastas and secondi, Mon-Tue 9:30-20:00, Thu-Sat 9:30-22:30, Sun 9:30-17:00, closed Wed, Via San Miniato 2 red, tel. 055-234-2864, www.zebgastronomia.com).
(See “Oltrarno Restaurants” map, here.)
Trattoria Sabatino, farthest away and least touristy of my Oltrarno listings, is a spacious, brightly lit mess hall. You get the feeling it hasn’t changed much since it opened—in 1956. It’s disturbingly cheap, with family character and a simple menu—a super place to watch locals munch, especially since you’ll likely be sharing a table. You’ll find it just outside Porta San Frediano, a 15-minute walk from Ponte Vecchio (€4 pastas, €5-6 secondi, Mon-Fri 12:00-14:30 & 19:15-22:00, closed Sat-Sun, Via Pisana 2 red, see map on here, tel. 055-225-955, www.trattoriasabatino.it, little English spoken).
Trattoria Casalinga, an inexpensive standby, comes with aproned women bustling around the kitchen. Florentines and tourists alike pack the place and leave full and happy, with euros to spare for gelato (€7 pastas, €9-11 secondi, Mon-Sat 12:00-14:30 & 19:00-22:00, after 20:00 reserve or wait, closed Sun and Aug, just off Piazza di Santo Spirito, near the church at Via de’ Michelozzi 9 red, tel. 055-218-624, www.trattorialacasalinga.it, Andrea and Paolo).
Caffè Ricchi has fine gelato, homemade desserts, shaded outdoor tables, and €4 pasta dishes at lunch (self-service or to go). After noting the plain facade of the Brunelleschi church facing the square, step inside the café and pick your favorite picture of the many ways the church might be finished (daily 7:00-24:00, until 21:00 in winter, tel. 055-280-830). Ristorante Ricchi, its sister restaurant next door, is more formal, has a larger menu, and also has tables on the square.
Le Volpi e l’Uva, a wine bar just steps from Ponte Vecchio, has a limited menu of affettati (cold cuts), cheese, and crostone (hearty bruschetta)—a nice spot for a light lunch (Mon-Sat 11:00-21:00, closed Sun, 65 yards south of bridge, Piazza del Rossi 1, tel, 055-239-8132).
Supermarket: Sapori & Dintorni Conad, just over Ponte Vecchio and to the left, has all you need for a picnic (Mon-Sat 8:30-21:00, Sun 9:30-21:00).
Tuscany has some of Italy’s best food, and Florence is a natural place to learn a thing or two from this region’s prodigious culinary tradition. Cooking classes range from multi-day or multi-week courses for professional and semi-professional chefs, to two- or three-hour crash courses for tourists. You’ll typically spend a couple of hours cooking, then sit down to a hard-earned (if not always flawlessly executed) meal. They’ll send you on your way with the recipes you prepared that day, ready to try to re-create them at home. Some classes also include a shopping trip to the market.
The options listed below represent only a few of your many choices. As this is a fast-changing scene, if you’re serious about taking a cooking class in Florence, it’s worth doing some homework online (compare websites, read reviews) and booking well ahead.
Through a Cooking School: In Tavola hits a good balance: It’s a dedicated cooking school in the heart of the Oltrarno, where trained, Italian but English-speaking chefs quickly demonstrate each step before setting you loose to try your hand. The kitchen feels functional and real (in a good way), but you’ll sit down to eat in the cozy wine cellar (classes ranging from €53-73/person, multi-lesson professional courses available, ideally book well ahead but you can try calling last-minute, between Pitti Palace and Brancacci Chapel at Via dei Velluti 18/20 red, tel. 055-217-672, www.intavola.org, info@intavola.org, Fabrizio and American Jennifer).
Through a Tour Operator: Several reputable walking-tour companies in Florence offer a variety of cooking classes. ArtViva offers a range of hands-on cooking classes: three-course (€59/person), four-course (€68/person), pasta (€53/person), and pastry (€55/person; 10 percent discount with this book—log in at www.artviva.com/ricksteves with username “ricksteves” and password “reader;” tel. 055-264-5033). Florencetown’s five-hour experience starts with a trip to Mercato Centrale, then settles into their kitchen for a cooking lesson (€85/person; also 3-hour pizza- and gelato-making class for €45/person; 10 percent discount with the code “RICKSTEVES,” chef Giovanni, Via de Lamberti 1, tel. 055-281-103, www.florencetown.com). Both of these companies are described under “Tours in Florence” on here.
Florence is Tuscany’s transportation hub, with fine train, bus, and plane connections to virtually anywhere in Italy. The city has several train stations, a bus station (next to the main train station), and an airport (and Pisa’s airport is nearby). Livorno, on the coast west of Florence, is a major cruise-ship port for passengers visiting Florence, Pisa, and other nearby destinations.
From Florence by Train to: Pisa (2-3/hour, 45-75 minutes), Lucca (2/hour, about 1.5 hours), Siena (direct trains hourly, 1.5-2 hours; bus is better because Siena’s train station is far from the center), Camucia-Cortona (hourly, 1.5 hours), Livorno (hourly, 1.25 hours, some change in Pisa), La Spezia (for the Cinque Terre, 5/day direct, 2.5 hours, otherwise nearly hourly with change in Pisa), Milan (hourly, 1.75 hours), Venice (hourly, 2-3 hours, may transfer in Bologna; often crowded—reserve ahead), Assisi (8/day direct, 2-3 hours), Orvieto (hourly, 2 hours, some with change in Campo di Marte or Rifredi station), Rome (at least hourly, 1.5 hours, most connections require seat reservations), Naples (hourly, 3 hours), Brindisi (8/day, 8 hours with change in Bologna or Rome), Interlaken (5/day, 5.5-6 hours, 2-3 changes), Frankfurt (1/day, 12 hours, 1-3 changes), Paris (3/day, 10-15 hours, 1-2 changes, important to reserve overnight train ahead), Vienna (1 direct overnight train, or 5/day with 1-3 changes, 10-16 hours).
Note that the departures listed above are operated by Trenitalia; Italo offers additional high-speed connections to major Italian cities (including Milan, Padua, Venice, Rome, and Naples; see here).
The BusItalia bus station (100 yards west of the Florence train station on Via Santa Caterina da Siena) is a big, old-school lot with numbered stalls and all the services you’d expect. Schedules for regional trips are posted, and TV monitors show imminent departures. Bus service drops dramatically on Sunday. Generally it’s best to buy bus tickets in the station, as you’ll pay 30 percent more if you buy tickets on board. Bus info: tel. 800-373-760 (Mon-Fri 9:00-15:00, closed Sat-Sun), www.fsbusitalia.it.
From Florence by Bus to: San Gimignano (hourly, less on Sun, 1.5-2 hours, change in Poggibonsi), Siena (about 2/hour, 1.25-hour rapida/via superstrada buses are faster than the train, avoid the slower ordinaria buses, www.sienamobilita.it), Volterra (4/day Mon-Sat, 1/day Sun, 2 hours, change in Colle di Val d’Elsa to CPT bus #770, www.cpt.pisa.it), Montepulciano (1-2/day, 2 hours, change in Bettolle, LFI bus, www.lfi.it), Florence’s Amerigo Vespucci Airport (2/hour, 30 minutes, pay driver and immediately validate ticket, usually departs from platform 1, first bus leaves for airport from Florence at 5:30).
For small groups with more money than time, zipping to nearby towns by taxi can be a good value (e.g., €120 from your Florence hotel to your Siena hotel).
A more comfortable alternative is to hire a private car service. Florence-based Transfer Chauffeur Service has a fleet of modern vehicles with drivers who can whisk you between cities, to and from the cruise ship port at Livorno, and through the Tuscan countryside for around the same price as a cab (tel. 338-862-3129, www.transfercs.com, marco.masala@transfercs.com, Marco). Prestige Rent also has friendly, English-speaking drivers and offers similar services (office near Piazza della Signoria at Via Porta Rossa 6 red, tel. 055-398-6598, mobile 333-842-4047, www.prestigerent.com, usa@prestigerent.com, Saverio).
For information on Florence’s Amerigo Vespucci Airport, see here. For Pisa’s Galileo Galilei Airport, see here.
Florence’s port is Livorno (sometimes called “Leghorn” in English), a coastal town about 60 miles west of Florence. Of the excursion options, Florence is the most time-consuming to reach (roughly two hours each way by public transit); it will take you the whole day. Pisa is closer (about an hour each way), and since Pisa is well-connected with Lucca, it’s possible to combine those two cities into one long day. (If doing this, save Pisa until after lunch to avoid the cruise crowds in the morning, and be aware that most shops and restaurants in Lucca are closed Sun-Mon.) No matter where you go, if you’re taking the train, keep in mind that it can take about 30 minutes just to get from Livorno’s cruise port to the train station across town. Plan your day conservatively, as trains can be delayed.
Livorno’s port (at the western edge of town) is vast and sprawling, but most cruise ships dock in one of two places: Molo 75, at the Porto Mediceo; or at the adjacent Molo Capitaneria. Livorno’s city center clusters around two nearby squares: Piazza del Municipio (TI, public WCs, shuttle-bus stop) and Piazza Grande (stop for buses #1 and #1R to train station). The squares are connected by a long, covered pedestrian mall (with the main TI inside).
Tours: The TI arranges local guides and has a free Livorno brochure with self-guided Livorno walks. They can also inform you about local tours, such as a boat trip around the canals of Livorno plus a visit to Pisa (€20). Karin Kibby, an Oregonian living in Livorno who leads Rick Steves tours, offers a morning “slice of Italian life” walk (including Livorno’s fantastic food market) and day trips from the cruise port throughout Tuscany (2-10 people, mobile 333-108-6348, karinkintuscany@yahoo.it).
On Your Own: With a little patience, budget-minded travelers can use public transportation to go from Livorno to Florence, Pisa, or Lucca, and back again before the ship departs.
First, ride the cruise line’s shuttle bus from the port to downtown Livorno. It will drop you off at a bus stop near the TI on Piazza del Municipio (about €5-8 round-trip). Then ride public bus #1 or #1R to the Livorno Centrale Station (buses depart from the middle of Piazza Grande, in front of the cathedral).
From the station, trains zip to Florence (hourly, usually departs at :10 after the hour, arrive in Florence at :32 past the following hour—1 hour and 22 minutes total, €9 on a regional train; occasional departures are a few minutes shorter but require you to change trains at Pisa Centrale), Pisa (2-3/hour, 20 minutes, €2.50 on a regional train), Lucca (about hourly, 1-1.25 hours, transfer at Pisa Centrale, €5.10 on a regional train), and other points in Italy.
If you’re going to Pisa, note that it’s usually listed as an intermediate station (for example, on the way to Firenze, Milano, or Torino) rather than the final destination. All Florence-bound trains stop in Pisa. If you want to visit Lucca and Pisa in one day, take the train to Lucca first. A handy bus connects Lucca’s Piazzale Giuseppe Verdi to Pisa’s Field of Miracles (€3, hourly Mon-Sat, fewer on Sun, 50 minutes).
Taxi and Shared Minibus Excursions: Taxis meet arriving cruises and offer various day trips around the area (the cabbie drops you off for a designated amount of time in one or two cities). While a private taxi is costly, enterprising drivers with eight-seat minibuses gather groups to split their €400 fee; €50/person is actually a great deal—you’ll be driven one hour into Florence, dropped off near the center for four or five hours of free time, and then taken back to the port.
Here are some ballpark round-trip fares for a four-seat car: Pisa—€120, Pisa and Lucca—€220, Florence—€320. Ask if wait time is included—if not, it can cost about €30/hour. In general, drivers at the port prefer to take passengers who will pay them for the whole day, so it can be difficult to get someone to take you just one-way (especially the long haul into Florence).
Taxis both at the port and in the city offer the same rates. Clarify the fare beforehand, even though by law the driver must have the meter on (the quoted price will usually be less than the meter).
Cruise-Ship Excursions: Most cruise lines offer a “transportation-only” excursion from the ship to Florence. This includes a bus ride from the ship directly to a point in downtown Florence, free time to explore the city, then a bus ride back to your ship. This is extremely convenient but relatively expensive (around $100-125—which is about €75-95).
Perched on a hill overlooking the Arno valley, the tidy little town of Fiesole (fee-AY-zoh-lay) gives weary travelers a break in the action and—during the heat of summer—a breezy location from which to admire the city below. It’s a small town with a main square, a few restaurants and shops, a few minor sights, and a great view. It’s fitting that the E. M. Forster novel and the Merchant-Ivory film adaptation A Room with a View both have ties here.
The ancient Etruscans knew a good spot when they saw one, and chose to settle here, establishing Fiesole about 400 years before the Romans founded Florence. Wealthy Renaissance families in pre-air-conditioning days chose Fiesole as a preferred vacation spot, building villas in the surrounding hillsides. Later, 19th-century Romantics spent part of the Grand Tour admiring the vistas, much like the hordes of tourists do today. Most come here for the view—the actual sights pale in comparison to those in Florence. Shutterbugs visit in the morning for the best light, while some prefer the evening for sunset.
Getting to Fiesole: It’s only a half-hour away by bus or taxi. From Florence’s Piazza San Marco, take bus #7—enjoying a peek at gardens, vineyards, orchards, and villas—to the last stop, Piazza Mino (3-4/hour, fewer after 21:00 and on Sun, 30 minutes, €1.20, €2 if bought on bus, validate on board; departs Florence from Piazza San Marco to the right of the museum). As bus tickets can be tricky to buy in Fiesole (the lone tobacco stand that sells them can be unexpectedly closed), bring a return ticket with you from Florence—or be ready to pay extra to buy your ticket on board. Taxis from Florence cost about €25-35 (ride to the view terrace near La Reggia restaurant, then hike up to the Church of San Francesco—which is hard to reach by car—and finally, explore downhill).
Tourist Information: The TI is a two-minute walk from the bus stop, inside the ticket office for the Roman Archaeological Area—just head behind the church (daily April-Sept 10:00-19:00, March and Oct 10:00-18:00, Nov-Feb 10:00-14:00, Via Portigiani 3, tel. 055-596-1311, www.fiesoleforyou.it).
Market Day: Fiesole weekends often come with markets—produce on Saturday mornings, and all-day artisan markets on some Sundays.
While this church has a drab, 19th-century exterior, the interior is enlivened by some glittering Gothic altarpieces and a wood-beamed ceiling. Over the main door, look for the blue-and-white glazed Giovanni della Robbia statue of St. Romulus (Fiesole’s patron saint). Then climb up the stairs past the altar and bear right to find the smiling, head-cocked tomb of Bishop Salutati, which was carved by Mino da Fiesole, a talented student of Donatello’s.
Cost and Hours: Free, daily 8:00-12:00, across Piazza Mino from the bus stop.
Florence has few visible Roman ruins—and archaeological finds are far, far better elsewhere in Italy—but if you’re dying to see some local ancient history, Fiesole is probably your best chance. This overpriced and sparse but well-presented complex features a largely intact Roman theater, some less-intact fragments of other buildings, and a decent museum of local finds. And the valley view and peaceful setting are lovely. If you don’t want to spring for the hefty entry fee, you can get a peek of the grounds from the café terrace just to the left of the turnstile.
Cost and Hours: €10, except Fri-Sun when an obligatory combo-ticket (€12) adds the Bandini Museum (see next listing), includes excellent videoguide, covered by Firenze Card; April-Sept daily 10:00-19:00, March and Oct daily 10:00-18:00; Nov-Feb Wed-Mon 10:00-14:00, closed Tue; behind the Duomo at Via Portigiani 1, www.museidifiesole.it.
This petite museum displays the wooden panels of lesser-known Gothic and Renaissance painters as well as the glazed terra-cotta figures of Andrea della Robbia.
Cost and Hours: €5, covered by €12 combo-ticket with Archaeological Area and Museum, also by Firenze Card, April-Sept Fri-Sun 10:00-19:00, closed Mon-Thu, shorter hours Oct-March, behind Duomo at Via Dupre 1.
To reach these sights, you’ll have to huff your way about 10 minutes steeply up from the main square and bus stop. First you’ll pass the recommended La Reggia restaurant, then the terrace, and finally (a few more vertical minutes up) the church complex.
Catch the sunset (and your breath) from the sweeping view terrace just above La Reggia restaurant. Florence stretches out from the Duomo’s stately dome, with the Oltrarno and Piazzale Michelangelo in the background. And the hillsides all around are draped with vineyards and speckled with luxury villas of Renaissance bigwigs who knew how to maximize a great city view. Overachievers in search of similar views can climb up the opposite side of the square, along the equally steep road hugging the ridgeline.
For even more hill-climbing, continue up from the view terrace to this charming little church. Its small scale and several colorful altar paintings make this church arguably more enjoyable than Fiesole’s Duomo. (Before entering the church, poke in the doorway to the right for a look at the tranquil cloister.) Inside, walking from the back to the front of this church is like flipping the pages of a Florentine Renaissance textbook: Notice how the altarpieces evolve from rigid, staged-looking late Gothic to fully flowering, more organic High Renaissance. You’ll also find the Franciscan Ethnographic Missionary Museum, a quirky collection of souvenirs from local missionaries’ travels (to the left of the altar, find the door into the cloister, then head downstairs).
Cost and Hours: Church—free, Mon-Sat 7:00-19:00, Sun 7:00-11:00 & 12:00-19:00, tel. 055-59-175; museum—free but donation suggested, flexible hours—usually Mon-Sat 9:30-12:00 & 15:00-18:30, Sun 15:00-18:30, may be closed Fri morning, tel. 055-59-175; both at Via San Francesco 13.
The first restaurant is right on Piazza Mino, where the bus from Florence stops; the other is near the view terrace above town.
Fiesolano, a local favorite, serves authentic Tuscan dishes at a fair price. They’re particularly well-regarded for their Florentine steaks. Choose between the homey, cluttered interior, the few sidewalk tables facing the main square, or the shady garden terrace (€7-9 pizzas and pastas, €12-18 secondi, daily 12:30-14:30 & 19:30-23:30, Piazza Mino 9R, tel. 055-59-143, Leonardo).
Ristorante La Reggia degli Etruschi has some of the highest prices—and best views—in town, as long as you’re willing to make the steep walk up. As you’re paying for the panorama, it’s essential to reserve a table at a window or on their terrace to fully enjoy the vista (€10-14 pastas, €18-20 secondi, daily 11:00-15:00 & 18:00-23:00, Via San Francesco 18, tel. 055-59-385).
Picnics: Fiesole is made-to-order for a scenic and breezy picnic. Grab a simple sandwich and a pastry at Fiesole’s best pasticceria, Alcedo (head up the main drag from the bus stop to Via Gramsci 27, Tue-Sat 7:00-20:00, Sun 7:00-13:00, closed Mon). Round out your goodies across the street at the Coop supermarket (Mon-Sat 8:00-13:00 & 16:00-20:00, closed Sun) before backtracking to the panoramic terrace. Or, for more convenience and less view, picnic at the shaded park on the way to the view terrace (walk up Via San Francesco about halfway to the terrace, and climb the stairs to the right).
