Built as a tomb for the emperor, used through the Middle Ages as a castle, prison, and place of last refuge for popes under attack, and today a museum, this giant pile of ancient bricks is packed with history. The structure itself is striking, but the sight feels empty and underexplained—come for the building itself and the views up top, not for the exhibits or artifacts.
Cost and Hours: €10.50, Tue-Sun 9:00-19:30, closed Mon, last entry one hour before closing, audioguide-€5, near Vatican City, Metro: Lepanto or bus #40 or #64, tel. 06-681-9111, www.castelsantangelo.beniculturali.it.
Background: Ancient Rome allowed no tombs—not even the emperor’s—within its walls. So Emperor Hadrian grabbed the most commanding position just outside the walls and across the river and built a towering tomb (c. A.D. 139) well within view of the city. His mausoleum was a huge cylinder (210 by 70 feet) topped by a cypress grove and crowned by a huge statue of Hadrian himself riding a chariot. For nearly a hundred years, Roman emperors (from Hadrian to Caracalla, in A.D. 217) were buried here.
In the year 590, the archangel Michael appeared above the mausoleum to Pope Gregory the Great. Sheathing his sword, the angel signaled the end of a plague. The fortress that was Hadrian’s mausoleum eventually became a fortified palace, renamed for the “holy angel.”
Castel Sant’Angelo spent centuries of the Dark Ages as a fortress and prison, but was eventually connected to the Vatican via an elevated corridor at the pope’s request (1277). Since Rome was repeatedly plundered by invaders, Castel Sant’Angelo was a handy place of last refuge for threatened popes. In anticipation of long sieges, rooms were decorated with papal splendor (you’ll see paintings by Carlo Crivelli, Luca Signorelli, and Andrea Mantegna). In 1527, during a sack of Rome by troops of Charles V of Spain, the pope lived inside the castle for months with his entourage of hundreds (an unimaginable ordeal, considering the food service at the top-floor bar).
Visiting the Castle: Touring the place is a stair-stepping workout. After you walk around the entire base of the castle—buying your ticket en route—take the small staircase down to the original Roman floor (following the route of Hadrian’s funeral procession). In the atrium, study the model of the mausoleum as it was in Roman times. Imagine being surrounded by a veneer of marble, and the niche in the wall filled with a towering “welcome to my tomb” statue of Hadrian. From here, a ramp leads to the right, spiraling 400 feet. While some of the fine original brickwork and bits of mosaic survive, the marble veneer is long gone (notice the holes in the wall from the pins that held it in place).
At the end of the ramp, turn left and go up the stairs. A bridge crosses over the room where the ashes of the emperors were kept. From here, more stairs continue out of the ancient section and into the medieval structure (built atop the mausoleum) that housed the papal apartments. Explore the rooms and enjoy the view. Then go through the Sala Paolina and up the stairs; don’t miss the Sala del Tesoro (Treasury—likely once Hadrian’s tomb, and later a prison), where the wealth of the Vatican was locked up in a huge chest. (Do miss the 58 rooms of the military museum.) From the pope’s piggy bank, a narrow flight of stairs leads to the rooftop and perhaps the finest view of Rome anywhere (pick out landmarks as you stroll around). From the safety of this dramatic vantage point, the pope surveyed the city in times of siege. Look down at the bend of the Tiber, which for 2,700 years has cradled the Eternal City.
The bridge leading to Castel Sant’Angelo was built by Hadrian for quick and regal access from downtown to his tomb. The three middle arches are actually Roman originals and a fine example of the empire’s engineering expertise. The statues of angels (each bearing a symbol of the passion of Christ—nail, sponge, shroud, and so on) are Bernini-designed and textbook Baroque. In the Middle Ages, this was the only bridge in the area that connected St. Peter’s and the Vatican with downtown Rome. Nearly all pilgrims passed this bridge to and from the church. Its shoulder-high banisters recall a tragedy: During a Jubilee Year festival in 1450, the crowd got so huge that the mob pushed out the original banisters, causing nearly 200 to fall to their deaths.
Rome’s semi-scruffy three-square-mile “Central Park” is great for its shade and for people-watching plenty of modern-day Romeos and Juliets. The best entrance is at the head of Via Veneto (Metro: Barberini, then 10-minute walk up Via Veneto and through the old Roman wall at Porta Pinciana, or catch a cab to Via Veneto—Porta Pinciana). There you’ll find a cluster of buildings with a café, a kiddie arcade, and bike rental (Bici Pincio, €4/hour). Rent a bike or, for romantics, a pedaled rickshaw (riscio, €12/hour). Bikes come with locks to allow you to make sightseeing stops. Follow signs to discover the park’s cafés, fountains, statues, lake, great viewpoint over Piazza del Popolo, and prime picnic spots. Some sights require paid admission, including the Borghese Gallery, Rome’s zoo, the National Gallery of Modern Art (which holds 19th-century art; not to be confused with MAXXI, described later), and the Etruscan Museum (also described later).
This plush museum, filling a cardinal’s mansion in the park, offers one of Europe’s most sumptuous art experiences. You’ll enjoy a collection of world-class Baroque sculpture, including Bernini’s David and his excited statue of Apollo chasing Daphne, as well as paintings by Caravaggio, Raphael, Titian, and Rubens. The museum’s mandatory reservation system keeps crowds to a manageable size.
Cost and Hours: €16, price includes €2 reservation fee, Tue-Sun 9:00-19:00, closed Mon, ticket office closes 30 minutes before museum. Reservations are mandatory. The 1.5-hour audioguide (€5) is excellent.
Reservations: Reservations are required and simple to get. It’s easiest to book online on their user-friendly website (www.galleriaborghese.it). You can also reserve by telephone (tel. 06-32810, press 2 for English, pay for tickets on arrival). Call during Italian office hours: Mon-Fri 9:00-18:00, Sat 9:00-13:00, office closed Sat in Aug and Sun year-round.
Entry times are 9:00, 11:00, 13:00, 15:00, and 17:00. Reserve a minimum of several days in advance for a weekday visit, and at least a week ahead for weekends. For off-season weekdays (but not weekends), your chances of getting a same-day reservation are fairly high if you’re flexible about the entry time—just call and ask.
After you reserve a day and time, you’ll get a claim number. They recommend that you arrive at the Borghese Gallery 30 minutes before your appointed time to pick up your ticket in the lobby on the lower level. Don’t cut it close—arriving late can mean forfeiting your reservation.
You can use a Roma Pass for entry, but you’re still required to make a reservation (by phone only—not online; specify that you have the Roma Pass). If you don’t have a reservation, try arriving near the top of the hour, when the museum sells unclaimed tickets to those standing by.
Getting There: The museum is set idyllically but inconveniently in the vast Villa Borghese Gardens. Bus #910 goes from Termini train station (and Piazza Repubblica) to the Via Pinciana stop, 100 yards from the museum.
By Metro, from the Barberini Metro stop, walk 10 minutes up Via Veneto, enter the park, and turn right, following signs another 10 minutes to the Borghese Gallery.
Tours: Guided English tours are offered at 9:10 and 11:10 (€6.50; may also be offered on busy weekends at 13:10 and 15:10). You can’t book a tour when you make your museum reservation—sign up as soon as you arrive. Or consider the excellent 1.5-hour audioguide tour (€5).
Length of This Tour: Two hours is all you get...and you’ll want every minute. But if you have less time, focus on the ground-floor sculptures, especially Bernini. If you’re speedy, you could squeeze in all of the highlights (including the Pinacoteca) in about an hour.
Visiting the Museum: It’s hard to believe that a family of cardinals and popes would display so many works with secular and sensual—even erotic—themes. But the Borgheses felt that all forms of human expression, including pagan myths and physical passion, glorified God.
The essence of the collection is the connection of the Renaissance with the classical world. As you enter, notice the second-century Roman reliefs with Michelangelo-designed panels above either end of the portico. The villa was built in the early 17th century by the great art collector Cardinal Scipione Borghese, who wanted to prove that the glories of ancient Rome were matched by the Renaissance.
In the main entry hall, high up on the wall, is a thrilling first-century Greek sculpture of a horse falling. The Renaissance-era rider was added by Pietro Bernini, father of the famous Gian Lorenzo Bernini.
Each room seems to feature a Baroque masterpiece. The best one of all is in Room III: Bernini’s Apollo and Daphne. It’s the perfect Baroque subject—capturing a thrilling, action-filled moment. In the mythological story, Apollo—made stupid by Cupid’s arrow of love—chases after Daphne, who has been turned off by the “arrow of disgust.” Just as he’s about to catch her, she calls to her father to save her. Magically, her fingers begin to sprout leaves, her toes become roots, her skin turns to bark, and she transforms into a tree. Frustrated Apollo will end up with a handful of leaves. Walk slowly around the statue. It’s more air than stone.
The fascinating Etruscan civilization thrived in Italy around 600 B.C., when Rome was an Etruscan town. The Villa Giulia (a fine Renaissance palace in the Villa Borghese Gardens) hosts a museum that tells the story. The displays are clean and bright, with good English information.
The star of the museum is the famous “husband and wife sarcophagus” (Il Sarofago degli Sposi, Room 12)—a dead couple seeming to enjoy an everlasting banquet from atop their tomb (sixth century B.C. from Cerveteri). Room 13b has a few gold sheets from Pyrgi, with inscriptions in two languages—the “Etruscan Rosetta Stone” that has helped scholars decipher their odd language. Room 40 displays the well-known terra-cotta statue, the Apollo of Veio, which stood atop Apollo’s temple. For more on the Etruscans, see the sidebar on here.
Cost and Hours: €8, Tue-Sun 8:30-19:30, closed Mon, last entry one hour before closing, good English information, 20-minute walk from Borghese Gallery or from most of the Villa Borghese Garden’s entrances, Metro: Flaminio, then tram #2 to Viale delle Belli Arti and a 5-minute walk (east) to the museum, Piazzale di Villa Giulia 9, tel. 06-322-6571, www.villagiulia.beniculturali.it.
Rome’s “National Museum of Art of the 21st Century” is the big news on the museum scene here—as you can imagine it would be, after the 10 years and €150 million it took to make it happen. This complex, designed by Zaha Hadid and billed as Italy’s “first national museum dedicated to contemporary creativity,” is a playful concrete and steel structure filled with bizarre installations. Like many contemporary art museums, it’s notable more for the building than the art inside. To me, it comes off as a second-rate Pompidou Center. While not to my taste, it’s one of the few places in the city where fans of contemporary architecture can see the latest trends.
Cost and Hours: €11, Tue-Sun 11:00-19:00, Sat until 22:00, closed Mon, last entry one hour before closing; no permanent collection, several rotating exhibits throughout the year—preview on their website; tram #2 (direction: Mancini) from Piazza del Popolo to the Apollodoro stop, then walk west 5 minutes to Via Guido Reni 4a; to return (direction: Flaminio), the tram stop is 50 yards closer to MAXXI, tel. 06-322-5178, www.fondazionemaxxi.it.
In the 1960s, movie stars from around the world paraded down curvy Via Veneto, one of Rome’s glitziest nightspots. Today it’s still lined with the city’s poshest hotels and the US Embassy, and retains a sort of faded Champs-Elysées elegance—but any hint of local color has turned to bland.
If you want to see artistically arranged bones, this is the place. The crypt is below the Church of Santa Maria della Immacolata Concezione on the tree-lined Via Veneto, just up from Piazza Barberini. The bones of more than 4,000 friars who died between 1528 and 1870 are in the basement, all lined up in a series of six crypts for the delight—or disgust—of the always-wide-eyed visitor.
Cost and Hours: €6, daily 9:00-19:00, last entry 30 minutes before closing, modest dress required, no photos, Via Veneto 27, Metro: Barberini, tel. 06-4201-4995.
These sights are on or within a short walk of the bustling Via del Corso thoroughfare, which connects Piazza del Popolo to the heart of town.
This vast oval square marks the traditional north entrance to Rome. From ancient times until the advent of trains and airplanes, this was just about any visitor’s first look at Rome. Today the square, known for its symmetrical design and its art-filled churches, is the starting point for the city’s evening passeggiata (see my “Dolce Vita Stroll” on here).
From the Flaminio Metro stop, pass through the third-century Aurelian Wall via the Porta del Popolo, and look south. The 10-story obelisk in the center of the square once graced the temple of Ramses II in Egypt and the Roman Circus Maximus racetrack. The obelisk was brought here in 1589 as one of the square’s beautification projects. (The oval shape dates from the early 19th century.) At the south side of the square, twin domed churches mark the spot where three main boulevards exit the square and form a trident. The central boulevard (running between the churches) is Via del Corso, which since ancient times has been the main north-south drag through town, running to Capitoline Hill (the governing center) and the Forum.
Along the north side of the square (flanking the Porta del Popolo) are two 19th-century buildings that give the square its pleasant symmetry: the Carabinieri station and the Church of Santa Maria del Popolo.
Two large fountains grace the sides of the square—Neptune to the west and Roma to the east (marking the base of Pincio Hill; steps lead up to the overlook with fine views to St. Peter’s and the rest of the city). Though the name Piazza del Popolo means “Square of the People” (and it is a popular hangout), the word was probably derived from the Latin populus, after the poplar trees that once stood here.
One of Rome’s most overlooked churches, this features two chapels with top-notch art by Caravaggio and Bernini, and a facade built of travertine scavenged from the Colosseum. The church is brought to you by the Rovere family, which produced two popes, and you’ll see their symbol—the oak tree and acorns—throughout.
Cost and Hours: Free but bring coins to illuminate the art, Mon-Sat 7:00-12:30 & 16:00-19:00, Sun 8:00-13:30 & 16:30-19:30, often partially closed to accommodate its busy schedule of Masses, on north side of Piazza del Popolo—as you face the gate in the old wall from the square, the church entrance is to your right.
Visiting the Church: Go inside. The Chigi Chapel (KEE-gee, second on the left as you face the main altar) was designed by Raphael and inspired (as Raphael was) by the Pantheon. Notice the Pantheon-like dome, pilasters, and capitals. Above in the oculus, God looks in, aided by angels who power the eight known planets. Raphael built the chapel for his wealthy banker friend Agostino Chigi, buried in the pyramid-shaped tomb in the wall to the right of the altar. Later, Chigi’s great-grandson hired Bernini to make two of the four statues, and Bernini delivered a theatrical episode. In one corner, Daniel straddles a lion and raises his praying hands to God for help. Kitty-corner across the chapel, an angel grabs the prophet Habakkuk’s hair and tells him to go take some food to poor Daniel in the lion’s den.
In the Cerasi Chapel (left of altar), Caravaggio’s Conversion of St. Paul shows the future saint sprawled on his back beside his horse while his servant looks on. The startled Paul is blinded by the harsh light as Jesus’ voice asks him, “Why do you persecute me?” In the style of the Counter-Reformation, Paul receives his new faith with open arms.
In the same chapel, Caravaggio’s Crucifixion of St. Peter is shown as a banal chore; the workers toil like faceless animals. The light and dark are in high contrast. Caravaggio liked to say, “Where light falls, I will paint it.”
The wide, curving staircase, culminating with an obelisk between two Baroque church towers, makes for one of Rome’s iconic sights. Beyond that, it’s a people-gathering place. By day, the area hosts shoppers looking for high-end fashions; on warm evenings, it attracts young people in love with the city. For more, see my “Heart of Rome Walk.”
On January 30, 9 B.C., soon-to-be-emperor Augustus led a procession of priests up the steps and into this newly built “Altar of Peace.” They sacrificed an animal on the altar and poured an offering of wine, thanking the gods for helping Augustus pacify barbarians abroad and rivals at home. This marked the dawn of the Pax Romana (c. A.D. 1-200), a Golden Age of good living, stability, dominance, and peace (pax). The Ara Pacis (AH-rah PAH-chees) hosted annual sacrifices by the emperor until the area was flooded by the Tiber River. Buried under silt, it was abandoned and forgotten until the 16th century, when various parts were discovered and excavated. Mussolini gathered the altar’s scattered parts and reconstructed them in a building here in 1938. Today, the Altar of Peace stands in a pavilion designed by American architect Richard Meier (opened 2006). If this modern building seems striking, perhaps that’s because it’s about the only entirely new structure permitted in the old center of Rome since Mussolini’s day.
Cost and Hours: €8.50 (more with special exhibits), tightwads can look in through huge windows for free, Tue-Sun 9:00-19:00, closed Mon, last entry one hour before closing, good audioguide-€4, good WC downstairs; a long block west of Via del Corso on Via di Ara Pacis, on the east bank of the Tiber near Ponte Cavour, Metro: Spagna plus a 10-minute walk down Via dei Condotti; tel. 06-0608, www.arapacis.it.
Visiting the Museum: Start with the model in the museum’s lobby. The Altar of Peace was originally located east of here, along today’s Via del Corso. The model shows where it stood in relation to the Mausoleum of Augustus (now next door) and the Pantheon.
Approach the Ara Pacis and look through the doorway to see the raised altar. This simple structure has just the basics of a Roman temple: an altar for sacrifices surrounded by cubicle-like walls that enclose a consecrated space.
Climb the 10 steps and go inside. From here, the priest would climb the eight altar steps to make sacrifices. The walls of the enclosure are decorated with the kinds of things offered to the gods: animals (see the cow skulls), garlands of fruit, and ceremonial platters to present the offerings. The reliefs on the north and south sides probably depict the parade of dignitaries who consecrated the altar, while the reliefs on the west side (near the altar’s back door) celebrate the two things Augustus brought to Rome: peace (goddess Roma as a conquering Amazon, right side) and prosperity (fertility goddess surrounded by children, plants, and animals, left side).
While most tourists and nearly all tour groups go out to the Appian Way to see the famous catacombs of San Sebastiano and San Callisto, the Catacombs of Priscilla (on the other side of town) are less commercialized and less crowded—they just feel more intimate, as catacombs should.
You enter from a convent and explore the result of 250 years of tunneling that occurred from the second to the fifth century. Visits are by 30-minute guided tour only (English-language tours go whenever a small group gathers—generally every 20 minutes or so). You’ll see a few thousand of the 40,000 niches carved here, along with some beautiful frescoes, including what is considered the first depiction of Mary nursing the Baby Jesus.
Cost and Hours: €8, Tue-Sun 8:30-12:00 & 14:30-17:00, closed Mon, last entry 30 minutes before closing, closed one random month a year—check website or call first, tel. 06-8620-6272, www.catacombepriscilla.com.
Getting There: The catacombs are northeast of Termini train station (at Via Salaria 430), far from the center (a €15 taxi ride) but well-served by buses (20-30 minutes). From Termini, take bus #86, #92, or #310 from Piazza Cinquecento. From Piazza Venezia, along Via del Corso or Via Barberini, take bus #63. Tell the driver “Piazza Crati” and “kah-tah-KOHM-bay” and he’ll let you off near Piazza Crati (at the Nemorense/Crati stop). From there, walk through the little market in Piazza Crati, then down Via di Priscilla (about 5 minutes). The entrance is in the orange building on the left at the top of the hill.
For more information, see the “Catacombs” sidebar on here.
Most of these sights are within a 10-minute walk of the train station (except for the Baroque Surprises Stroll and art exhibitions, which are a bit farther).
The National Museum’s main branch, at Palazzo Massimo, houses the greatest collection of ancient Roman art anywhere. It’s a historic yearbook of Roman marble statues with some rare Greek originals. On the ground floor alone, you can look eye-to-eye with Julius and Augustus Caesar, Alexander the Great, and Socrates.
Cost and Hours: €10 combo-ticket covers three other branches—all skippable, Tue-Sun 9:00-19:45, closed Mon, last entry 45 minutes before closing, audioguide-€5, about 100 yards from train station, Metro: Repubblica or Termini, tel. 06-3996-7700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it/en.
Getting There: The museum is in Palazzo Massimo, situated between Piazza della Repubblica (Metro: Repubblica) and Termini Station (Metro: Termini). It’s a few minutes’ walk from either Metro stop. As you leave Termini, it’s the sandstone-brick building on your left. Enter at the far end, at Largo di Villa Peretti.
Visiting the Museum: The museum is rectangular, with rooms and hallways built around a central courtyard. The ground-floor displays follow Rome’s history as it changes from a democratic republic to a dictatorial empire. The first-floor exhibits take Rome from its peak through its slow decline. The second floor houses rare frescoes and fine mosaics, and the basement presents coins and everyday objects.
On the first floor, along with statues and busts showing such emperors as Trajan and Hadrian, you’ll see the best-preserved Roman copy of the Greek Discus Thrower. Statues of athletes like this commonly stood in the baths, where Romans cultivated healthy bodies, minds, and social skills, hoping to lead well-rounded lives. Other statues on this floor originally stood in the pleasure gardens of the Roman rich—surrounded by greenery with the splashing sound of fountains, all painted in bright, lifelike colors. Though created by Romans, the themes are mostly Greek, with godlike humans and human-looking gods.
The second floor contains frescoes and mosaics that once decorated the walls and floors of Roman villas. They’re remarkably realistic and unstuffy, featuring everyday people, animals, flowery patterns, and geometrical designs. The Villa Farnesina frescoes—in black, red, yellow, and blue—are mostly architectural designs, with fake columns, friezes, and garlands. The Villa di Livia frescoes, owned by the wily wife of Augustus, immerse you in a leafy green garden full of birds and fruit trees, symbolizing the gods.
Finally, descend into the basement to see fine gold jewelry, an eight-year-old girl’s mummy, and vault doors leading into the best coin collection in Europe, with fancy magnifying glasses maneuvering you through cases of coins from ancient Rome to modern times.
Of all the marvelous structures built by the Romans, their public baths were arguably the grandest, and the Baths of Diocletian were the granddaddy of them all. Built by Emperor Diocletian around A.D. 300 and sprawling over 30 acres—roughly five times the size of the Colosseum—these baths could cleanse 3,000 Romans at once. They functioned until A.D. 537, when barbarians attacked and the city’s aqueducts fell into disuse, plunging Rome into a thousand years of poverty, darkness, and B.O. Today, tourists can visit one grand section of the baths, its former main hall. This impressive remnant of the ancient complex was later transformed (with help from Michelangelo) into the Church of Santa Maria degli Angeli.
Cost and Hours: Free, Mon-Sat 7:00-18:30, Sun 7:00-19:30. The entrance is on Piazza della Repubblica (Metro: Repubblica or buses #40 and #64).
Visiting the Baths: Start outside the church. The curved brick facade of today’s church was once part of the caldarium, or steam room, of the ancient baths. Romans loved to sweat out last night’s indulgences. After entering the main lobby (located where Piazza della Repubblica is today), they’d strip in the locker rooms, then enter the steam room. The caldarium had wood furnaces under the raised floors. Stoked by slaves, these furnaces were used to heat the floors and hot tubs. The low ceiling helped keep the room steamy.
Step into the vast and cool church. This round-domed room with an oculus (open skylight, now with modern stained glass) was once the tepidarium—the cooling-off room of the baths, where medium, “tepid” temperatures were maintained. This is where masseuses would rub you down and scrape you off with a stick (Romans didn’t use soap).
Enter the biggest part of the church and stand under the towering vault on the inlaid marble cross. In ancient times, from the tepidarium, Romans would have continued on to this space, the central hall of the baths. While the decor around you dates from the 18th century, the structure dates from the fourth century. This hall retains the grandeur of the ancient baths. It’s the size of a football field and seven stories high—once even higher, since the original ancient floor was about 15 feet below its present level. The ceiling’s crisscross arches were an architectural feat unmatched for a thousand years. The eight red granite columns are original, from ancient Rome—stand next to one and feel its five-foot girth.
The church we see today was (at least partly) designed by Michelangelo (1561), who used the baths’ main hall as the nave. Later, when Piazza della Repubblica became an important Roman intersection, another architect renovated the church. To allow people to enter from the grand new piazza, he spun it 90 degrees, turning Michelangelo’s nave into a long transept.
This church houses Bernini’s best-known statue, the swooning St. Teresa in Ecstasy.
Cost and Hours: Free, pay €0.50 for light, Mon-Sat 8:30-12:00 & 15:30-18:00, Sun 15:30-18:00, about 5 blocks northwest of Termini train station at Via XX Settembre 17, Metro: Repubblica.
Visiting the Church: Inside the church, you’ll find St. Teresa to the left of the altar. Teresa has just been stabbed with God’s arrow of fire. Now, the angel pulls it out and watches her reaction. Teresa swoons, her eyes roll up, her hand goes limp, she parts her lips...and moans. The smiling, cherubic angel understands just how she feels. Teresa, a 16th-century Spanish nun, later talked of the “sweetness” of “this intense pain,” describing her oneness with God in ecstatic, even erotic, terms.
Bernini, the master of multimedia, pulls out all the stops to make this mystical vision real. Actual sunlight pours through the alabaster windows, bronze sunbeams shine on a marble angel holding a golden arrow. Teresa leans back on a cloud and her robe ripples from within, charged with her spiritual arousal. Bernini has created a little stage-setting of heaven. And watching from the “theater boxes” on either side are members of the family who commissioned the work.
The church, originally a poor Carmelite church, was slathered with Baroque richness in the 17th century. (It grew popular in modern times for its part in Dan Brown’s Angels and Demons, something that serious historians scoff at.) At the altar, in the center of the starburst, is an icon of the Virgin Mary, considered miraculous for the military victories attributed to it during the Thirty Years’ War (early 1600s). And, as the 17th century was a time when the Roman Catholic Church was threatened by Protestants, the ceiling shows Mary defeating (Protestant) snakes, who grasp scriptures translated from the pope’s Latin into the evil vernacular.
The facade of this church is considered the first in the Baroque style—see the date: MDCIII (1603). It was designed by Carlo Maderno at the same time he was working on the facade of St. Peter’s. The structure seems to pop out at you from the center with an energy that enlivens the entire building. The architect added a new Baroque element—curves—seen in the scrollwork “shoulders.” The home of the American Catholic Church in Rome, Santa Susanna may be closed for renovation during your visit. When open, they hold Mass in English Monday through Saturday at 18:00, and on Sunday at 9:00 and 10:30; if they’re closed, check their website for the temporary location and time. They’ll continue to arrange papal audience tickets (see here), and their excellent website contains tips for travelers and a list of convents that rent out rooms.
Cost and Hours: Free, Mon-Sat 9:00-12:00 & 16:00-19:00, open Sun only for Mass, Via XX Settembre 15, near recommended Via Firenze hotels, Metro: Repubblica, tel. 06-4201-4554, www.santasusanna.org.
(See “Near Termini Station” map, here.)
When Pope Sixtus V developed an ambitious plan to reorganize Rome around key landmarks (c. 1580s), he transformed this formerly sleepy neighborhood near the Baths of Diocletian. Within three generations, it was a major traffic hub and the center of a new city water system. The streets were lined with grand fountains, obelisks, and churches, all decorated in the new style of the 1600s—Baroque.
For an enjoyable half-mile walk, start in Piazza di San Bernardo (near the Church of Santa Maria della Vittoria, with Bernini’s famous statue of St. Teresa, and the Santa Susanna Church), stroll down Via XX Settembre (passing two Baroque churches—the Church of San Carlo alla Quattro Fontane and the Church of Sant’Andrea al Quirinale), and end at the Palazzo del Quirinale, which marks the summit of Quirinal Hill, the highest of Rome’s fabled seven hills. The fountain in the middle of the square has colossal statues of horses and men (probably Castor and Pollux, third century); as part of his reordering of the city, Pope Sixtus V had the figures moved here from a spot near the Baths of Constantine. The obelisk, which formerly stood in front of the Mausoleum of Augustus, was erected here in the late 1700s. Take in the views—there’s a fine vista of St. Peter’s Basilica in the distance. From here, a set of stairs (in the direction of the dome) leads down to the Trevi Fountain. The big road continues on to Piazza Venezia.
Two temporary exhibition spaces, near Palazzo del Quirinale and just a few blocks from each another, show top-notch art on a rotating basis. Scuderie del Quirinale typically focuses on the great masters (Titian, Vermeer, Caravaggio), while Palazzo delle Exposizioni favors contemporary artworks and photography.
Cost and Hours: €12 for each, can be more with some exhibits, €20 combo-ticket covers both for three days; both open Sun-Thu 10:00-20:00, Fri-Sat 10:00-22:30 except the Palazzo is closed Mon; both may open—and stay open—much later in summer; last entry one hour before closing; Scuderie—Via XXIV Maggio 16, tel. 06-696-271, www.scuderiequirinale.it; Palazzo—Via Nazionale 194, tel. 06-3996-7500, www.palazzoesposizioni.it.
East of the Colosseum (and south of Termini train station) are several venerable churches that Catholic pilgrims make a point of visiting. Near one of the churches is a small WWII museum.
Built by Constantine, the first Christian emperor, this was Rome’s most important church through medieval times. A building alongside the church houses the Holy Stairs (Scala Santa) said to have been walked up by Jesus, which today are ascended by pilgrims on their knees.
Cost and Hours: Church and Holy Stairs-free, cloister-€5, chapel at Holy Stairs-€3.50 (€8 combo-ticket covers both); church open daily 7:00-18:30, audioguide available; Holy Stairs open April-Sept Mon-Sat 6:00-12:00 & 15:00-19:00, Sun 7:00-12:30 & 15:30-19:00, Oct-March daily 7:00-12:30 & 15:00-18:30, last entry 15 minutes before closing; Piazza di San Giovanni in Laterano, Metro: San Giovanni, or bus #85 or #87; tel. 06-6988-6409, www.scalasanta.net.
This small memorial museum, near the Church of San Giovanni in Laterano, is housed in the prison wing of the former Nazi police headquarters of occupied Rome. Other than a single pamphlet, there’s little in English. Still, for those interested in resistance movements and the Nazi occupation, it’s a stirring visit. You’ll see a few artifacts, many photos of heroes, and a couple of cells preserved as they were found on June 4, 1944, when the city was liberated.
Cost and Hours: Free but donations accepted, Tue-Sun 9:30-12:30, Tue and Thu-Fri also 15:30-19:30, closed Mon and Aug, just behind the Holy Stairs, look for the flags at Via Tasso 145; tel. 06-700-3866.
Home of Rome’s best-surviving mosaics line the nave of this church built as Rome was falling. The nearby Church of Santa Prassede has still more early mosaics.
Cost and Hours: Free, daily 7:00-19:00, Piazza Santa Maria Maggiore, Metro: Termini or Vittorio Emanuele, tel. 06-6988-6802.
Besides visiting the church itself, with frescoes by Masolino, you can also descend into the ruins of an earlier church. Descend yet one more level and enter the eerie remains of a pagan temple to Mithras. It’s one of the easiest places to fully appreciate the layers of history that lie underfoot in Rome.
Cost and Hours: Upper church-free, lower church-€5, both open Mon-Sat 9:00-12:30 & 15:00-18:00, Sun 12:00-18:00, last entry to lower church 20 minutes before closing; Via di San Giovanni in Laterano, Metro: Colosseo, or bus #85 or #87; tel. 06-774-0021, www.basilicasanclemente.com.
The area south of the center contains some interesting but widely scattered areas, from Trastevere to Testaccio to E.U.R. Note that Metro line B hits several of the outlying sights listed here: Piramide (Testaccio area and trains to Ostia Antica), Garbatella (Montemartini Museum), Basilica San Paolo (St. Paul’s Outside the Walls), E.U.R. Magliana (Palace of the Civilization of Labor), and E.U.R. Fermi (Museum of Roman Civilization). For maximum efficiency, use this spine to quickly hop between these sights.
Trastevere is the colorful neighborhood across (tras) the Tiber (Tevere) River. Trastevere (trahs-TAY-veh-ray) offers the best look at medieval-village Rome. The action unwinds to the chime of the church bells. Go there and wander. Wonder. Be a poet. This is Rome’s Left Bank. (You can download a free Rick Steves audio tour of this neighborhood to your mobile device; see here.)
This proud neighborhood was long a working-class area. Now that it’s becoming trendy, high rents are driving out the source of so much color. Still, it’s a great people scene, especially at night. Stroll the back streets (for restaurant recommendations, see here).
To reach Trastevere by foot from Capitoline Hill, cross the Tiber on Ponte Fabricio to Isola Tiberina; from there, Ponte Cestio takes you to Trastevere. You can also take tram #8 from Piazza Venezia or Largo Argentina, or bus #H from Termini or Piazza della Repubblica (get off at Sonnino/Piazza Belli). From the Vatican (Piazza Risorgimento), it’s bus #23 or #271.
Linking Trastevere with the “Heart of Rome Walk”: You can walk from Trastevere to Campo de’ Fiori to link up with the beginning of my “Heart of Rome Walk” (see here). From Trastevere’s church square (Piazza di Santa Maria), take Via del Moro to the river and cross at Ponte Sisto, a pedestrian bridge that has a good view of St. Peter’s dome. Continue straight ahead for one block. Take the first left, which leads down Via di Capo di Ferro through the scary and narrow darkness to Piazza Farnese, with the imposing Palazzo Farnese. Michelangelo contributed to the facade of this palace, now the French Embassy. The fountains on the square feature huge one-piece granite hot tubs from the ancient Roman Baths of Caracalla. One block from there (opposite the palace) is the atmospheric square, Campo de’ Fiori.
One of Rome’s oldest church sites, a basilica was erected here in the fourth century, when Christianity was legalized. It is said to have been the first church in Rome dedicated to the Virgin Mary. The structure you see today dates mainly from the 12th century. Its portico (covered area just outside the door) is decorated with fascinating fragments of stone—many of them lids from catacomb burial niches—and filled with early Christian symbolism. The church is on Piazza di Santa Maria. While today’s fountain is from the 17th century, there has been a fountain here since Roman times.
Cost and Hours: Free, daily 8:30-21:00.
Here’s a unique opportunity to see a sumptuous Renaissance villa in Rome decorated with Raphael paintings. It was built in the early 1500s for the richest man in Renaissance Europe, Sienese banker Agostino Chigi. Kings and popes of the day depended on generous loans from Chigi, whose bank had more than 100 branches in places as far-flung as London and Cairo. His villa was the meeting place of aristocrats, artists, beautiful women, and philosophers.
Architect Baldassare Peruzzi’s design—a U-shaped building with wings enfolding what used to be a vast garden—successfully blended architecture and nature in a way that both ancient and Renaissance Romans loved. Orchards and flower beds flowed down in terraces from the palace to the riverbanks. Later construction of modern embankments and avenues robbed the garden of its grandeur, leaving it with a more melancholy charm. Inside, cavorting gods and goddesses cover the walls and ceilings, most famously Raphael’s depiction of the sea nymph Galatea.
Cost and Hours: €6; Mon-Sat 9:00-14:00, closed Sun except open 9:00-17:00 on second Sun of month, last entry 30 minutes before closing; across the river from Campo de’ Fiori, a short walk from Ponte Sisto and a block behind the river at 230 Via della Lungara; tel. 06-6802-7268, www.villafarnesina.it.
From this park atop a hill, the city views are superb, and the walk to the top holds a treat for architecture buffs. Start at Trastevere’s Piazza di San Cosimato, and follow Via Luciano Manara to Via Garibaldi, at the base of the hill. Via Garibaldi winds its way up the side of the hill to the Church of San Pietro in Montorio. To the right of the church, in a small courtyard, is the Tempietto by Donato Bramante. This tiny church, built to commemorate the martyrdom of St. Peter, is considered a jewel of Italian Renaissance architecture.
Continuing up the hill, Via Garibaldi connects to Passeggiata del Gianicolo. You’ll soon reach the large Piazzale Giuseppe Garibaldi, dominated by the equestrian statue of the swashbuckling military leader of the Italian unification. He enjoys a magnifico view of the Eternal City that you can drink in by standing at the railing on the right. A little farther along, look left to find the baby-carrying, gun-wielding, horse-riding statue of Anita Garibaldi, Giuseppe’s Brazilian-born partner in battle (and in life). The nearby Manfredi Lighthouse was built as a gift to Rome from Italian immigrants to Argentina.
In the gritty Testaccio neighborhood, several fascinating but lesser sights cluster at the Piramide Metro stop. (This is a quick and easy stop as you return from E.U.R., or when changing trains en route to Ostia Antica.)
In ancient times (when Rome’s population topped a million), wharves lined the banks of the Tiber River here. Back then, 90 percent of the city’s food came through here, and the long tradition of Testaccio feeding Rome continues today.
Long a working-class neighborhood, Testaccio has recently gone trendy-bohemian. Visitors wander through an awkward mix of hipster and proletarian worlds, not noticing—but perhaps sensing—the “Keep Testaccio for the Testaccians” graffiti.
You can pick and choose among the Testaccio sights described here or link them with my walking directions, starting at the Piramide Metro station. Use the map on the next page to follow along.
• As you exit the Metro station, look straight across the busy (and slightly seedy) square to find the giant pyramid and the adjacent brick fortress. For a closer look at these—and to begin our walk—carefully cross the several busy lanes of traffic and head for the gap between these two landmarks.
In the first century B.C., the Roman occupation of Egypt brought exotic pharaonic styles into vogue. Stoking the fascination with Egypt even further was the love affair of Mark Antony and Cleopatra; this power couple was the ancient equivalent of Brangelina (Cleopantony?). A rich Roman magistrate, Gaius Cestius, had this pyramid built as his tomb, complete with a burial chamber inside. Made of brick covered in marble, the 90-foot structure was completed in just 330 days (as stated in its Latin inscription). While smaller than actual Egyptian pyramids, its proportions are correct. It was later incorporated into the Aurelian Wall (explained next), and it now stands as a marker to the entrance of Testaccio. The most dramatic views of the pyramid are from inside the Protestant Cemetery (described later), on the other side of the wall.
• Across the narrow street from the pyramid is the...
This formidable gate is from the Aurelian Wall, begun in the third century under Emperor Aurelian. The wall, which encircled the city, was 12 miles long and averaged about 26 feet high, with 14 main gates and 380 72-foot-tall towers. Most of what you’ll see today is circa A.D. 400, but the barbarians reconstructed the gate later, in the sixth century.
Inside the gate is a tiny free museum (find entrance near pyramid; open Tue and Thu 9:00-16:30, Wed and Fri-Sat 9:00-13:30, open first and third Sun of month 9:00-13:30, closed Mon and second and fourth Sun of month, tel. 06-574-3193). The museum offers a chance to explore the gate and a few models of Rome’s ancient port, Ostia Antica; its neighbor, Porto, with its famed hexagonal harbor; and the Ostian Way, the straight Roman road that paralleled the curvy Tiber for 15 miles from Rome to the sea.
• Go through the gap between the pyramid and the gate on Via Raffaele Persichetti/Via Marmorata. On your right, notice the beige travertine post office from 1932. This is textbook Mussolini-era fascist architecture; the huge X design on the exterior celebrates the 10th anniversary of the dictator’s reign.
Take the first left, on sleepy Via Caio Cestio, and walk about 200 yards, looking on the left for the gate of the cemetery.
Lush and lovingly cared for, the Cemetery for the Burial of Non-Catholic Foreigners (Cimitero Acattolico per gli Stranieri al Testaccio) is a tomb-filled “park,” running along the wall just beyond the pyramid. The cemetery is also the only English-style landscape (rolling hills, calculated vistas) in Rome, making it a favorite spot for a quiet stroll.
Cost and Hours: €3 suggested donation—leave in box by entrance, Mon-Sat 9:00-17:00, Sun 9:00-13:00, last entry 30 minutes before closing, nice WC inside, staff at info office can help you find specific graves, tel. 06-574-1900, www.cemeteryrome.it.
Visiting the Cemetery: Originally, none of the Protestant epitaphs were allowed to make any mention of heaven. Signs direct visitors to the graves of notable non-Catholics who have died in Rome since 1716. Many of the buried were diplomats. And many, such as the poets Percy Bysshe Shelley (1792-1822) and John Keats (1795-1821), were from the Romantic Age. They came to Italy on the Grand Tour and—“captivated by the fatal charms of Rome,” as Shelley wrote—never left.
Shelley’s tomb is straight ahead from the entrance, up the hill and a bit to the left, at the base of the stubby tower. It’s a big, inscribed, flat slab in the ground. Like so many Romantic age artists and writers, Shelley was enamored with Rome. In 1821 he wrote, “Go thou to Rome,—at once the Paradise, the grave, the city, and the wilderness” (from Adonais, his elegy on Keats’ death).
Back at the entrance, with your back to the gate, head 90 degrees left to find Keats’ tomb, near the fence in the far corner of the big park facing the pyramid. Keats died in his twenties, unrecognized. He wanted to be unnamed on a tomb that read, “Young English Poet, 1821. Here lies one whose name was writ in water.” (To see Keats’ tomb when the cemetery is closed, look through the tiny peephole on Via Caio Cestio, 10 yards off Via Marmorata.)
• Exit the cemetery through the main gate and turn left, continuing down Via Caio Cestio. Cross the wide street and head down into the sunken area ringing...
This “hill,” actually a 115-foot-tall ancient trash pile, is made of testae—broken shards of earthenware jars mostly used to haul oil 2,000 years ago, when this was a gritty port warehouse district. For 500 years, rancid oil vessels were discarded here. Slowly, Rome’s lowly eighth hill was built. Because the caves dug into the hill stay cool (perfect for storing wine), trendy bars, clubs, and restaurants compete with gritty car-repair places for a spot.
The neighborhood was once known for its huge slaughterhouse and a Roma (Gypsy) camp that squatted inside an old military base. Now it’s home to the Testaccio Village (a site for summer concerts and techno raves—dead until late at night, when it thrives), a weekend farmers’ market, and a branch of Rome’s contemporary art museum (MACRO).
• Circling the rest of the way around Monte Testaccio, you’ll run right into the very modern-looking...
The covered and colorful market is a focal point of the neighborhood. It recently moved to this more modern and “hygienic” location—many say that it’s lost some of its edgy charm. But while the structure may be new, the community ties are still old, as locals nurture close relationships with the merchants who sell them their favorite foods. A stroll through here affords a fine look at a traditional Roman market (open Mon-Sat until 14:00, closed Sun, WC on the north side, near the clothing stalls). Find the center (where the sky opens up) and look down at the ancient Roman road littered with the shards of broken amphorae.
For tips on where to eat within the market and the surrounding neighborhood, see here.
You can ride the Metro to the Montemartini Museum and St. Paul’s Outside the Walls, but if you prefer to stay above ground, buses #23, #271, and #769 run on Via Ostiense from the Piramide Metro stop to the museum (stop: Ostiense/Garbatella) and the church (stop: Viale S. Paolo).
This museum houses a dreamy collection of 400 ancient statues, set evocatively in a classic 1932 electric power plant, among generators and Metropolis-type cast-iron machinery. While the art is not as famous as the collections you’ll see downtown, the effect is fun and memorable—and you’ll encounter absolutely no tourists. If you’re tackling Rome with kids, this museum is ideal: It’s uncrowded and cool, immersed in an old power plant, with art placed at kid level.
Cost and Hours: €6.50, Tue-Sun 9:00-19:00, closed Mon, last entry 30 minutes before closing, look for red banner marking Via Ostiense 106, a short walk from Metro: Garbatella, tel. 06-0608, www.centralemontemartini.org.
According to Christian tradition, the body of St. Paul was buried here, where a small shrine once stood. It was replaced by a much bigger church in around A.D. 380—in what was the last major construction project of Imperial Rome and the largest church in Christendom until St. Peter’s. That church burned in 1823, and the stately if stark, Neoclassical church you see today was built on its footprint. Pilgrims flock here to venerate the saint, especially since forensic experts concluded in 2009 that the bones interred under the altar date from the first or second century.
Cost and Hours: Free, daily 7:00-18:30, modest dress code enforced, dry audioguide-€5 plus ID, Via Ostiense 186, Metro: Basilica San Paolo, exit the Metro station following via Ostiense sign, and look for the church’s round tower, the entrance is on the far side, tel. 06-6988-0800, www.basilicasanpaolo.org.
Visiting the Church: The column-lined courtyard leading up to the church is typical of early Christian churches—the first version of St. Peter’s Basilica also had this kind of welcoming zone. The facade, while 19th century, is early Christian in its style—with Rome and Jerusalem flanking the Lamb of God. In the courtyard’s center is a statue of Paul holding his trademark sword, the instrument of his martyrdom. The palm trees, while not native to Rome, remind pilgrims of what they saw in the Holy Land. The central door of bronze and silver, from the 1930s, is dedicated to Peter (crucified upside-down) and Paul (beheaded).
Step inside and feel as close as you’ll get in the 21st century to experiencing a monumental Roman basilica. Marvel at the ceiling, with those massive wood beams.
The marble-inlaid floor is like that of the Pantheon and typically Roman. Alabaster windows light the vast interior. It feels sterile, but in a good way—as if you’re already in heaven. Along with St. Peter’s Basilica, San Giovanni in Laterano, and Santa Maria Maggiore, this church is, legally speaking, part of the Vatican rather than Italy. The triumphal arch leading to the altar has a fifth-century mosaic of Christ raising his hand in blessing.
The fine 13th-century mosaic filling the dome in the apse is Byzantine in style; it was likely done by the same craftsmen who decorated St. Mark’s in Venice. Notice the tiny white bug-like creature washing Jesus’ toe. It’s Honorius III, the 13th-century pope who paid for the apse renovation—reminding people of his humbleness while getting some credit at the same time.
The church is built upon the supposed grave of St. Paul. According to tradition, Paul was decapitated two miles from this spot. His head was preserved at San Giovanni in Laterano, and his body was buried here under the altar. In 2009, archaeologists unearthed a sarcophagus with early inscriptions identifying it as Paul’s, and carbon-dating on the bones inside confirmed their ancient origin.
Ringing the upper part of the church are round mosaic portraits of 266 popes, from St. Peter (the first one in the right transept) to the present. Find the recent popes to the right of the altar—not in the nave, but farther to the right, under the arches of the dim right aisle. You’ll see globetrotting John Paul II (Jo Paulus II) and progressive John XXIII, who oversaw the Vatican II changes of the 1960s. A portrait of Pope #266—Francis—was recently installed, alongside blank medallions for future popes.
The peaceful 13th-century cloister (€4) has elegant Romanesque columns and arches, and fragments of early Christian/Roman sarcophagi, a relic chapel, and a small painting gallery.
In the late 1930s, Italy’s dictator Benito Mussolini planned an international exhibition to show off the wonders of his fascist society. But these wonders brought us World War II, and Il Duce’s celebration never happened. The unfinished mega-project was completed in the 1950s, and today it houses government offices and big, obscure museums filled with important, rarely visited relics.
If Hitler and Mussolini had won the war, our world might look like E.U.R. (AY-oor). Hike down E.U.R.’s wide, pedestrian-mean boulevards. Patriotic murals, aren’t-you-proud-to-be-an-extreme-right-winger pillars, and stern squares decorate the soulless planned grid and sterile office blocks. Patriotic quotes are chiseled into walls. Boulevards named for Astronomy, Electronics, Social Security, and Beethoven are more exhausting than inspirational. And, not to be outdone by the ancients, Mussolini had a towering fascist-style obelisk erected in the central Piazza Marconi.
Despite its grim past, E.U.R. is now an up-and-coming place with young people and trendy cafés. It’s worth a trip for the Museum of Roman Civilization (described later). And because a few landmark buildings of Italian modernism are located here and there, E.U.R. has become an important destination for architecture buffs. The new futuristic convention center nicknamed “The Cloud” (it’s meant to look like a cloud suspended in a glass box) promises to bring even more life to the district.
The Metro skirts E.U.R. with three stops (10 minutes from the Colosseum). Use E.U.R. Magliana for the Palace of the Civilization of Labor and E.U.R. Fermi for the Museum of Roman Civilization. Consider walking 20 minutes from the palace to the museum through the center of E.U.R.
From the E.U.R. Magliana Metro stop, stairs lead uphill to this epitome of fascist architecture. With its giant no-questions-asked patriotic statues and its stark simplicity, this is E.U.R.’s tallest building and key landmark. It’s understandably nicknamed the “Square Colosseum.” Closed to the public while they decide how to use it, it’s still interesting to walk around. Downhill, in front of the palace, Caffè Palombini is a popular Roman institution; their buffet line is a hit with local workers for lunch (daily 7:00-22:00; good gelato, pastries, and snacks; Piazzale Adenauer 12—you’ll see it towering above as you exit the E.U.R. Magliana Metro station, tel. 06-591-1700).
With dozens of rooms of plaster casts and models illustrating the greatness of classical Rome, this vast and dated museum gives a strangely lifeless, close-up look at Rome. It’s calm and quiet, and lets you see virtually every ancient site intact. Each room has a theme, from military tricks to musical instruments, and is well described in English. One long hall is filled with casts of the reliefs of Trajan’s Column. The highlight is the huge scale model of Constantine’s Rome, circa A.D. 300. There are no ancient artifacts, but the various models can teach volumes about life and war in ancient Rome. The Planetarium and Astronomical Museum are mostly of interest to children—so don’t bother with the €10.50 combo-ticket unless you have kids. As this museum has recently been renovated, some of the specifics may have changed.
Cost and Hours: €8.50, Tue-Sat 9:00-14:00, Sun 9:00-13:30, closed Mon, last entry one hour before closing, Piazza G. Agnelli, about a 10-minute walk from the E.U.R. Fermi Metro station, tel. 06-0608, www.museociviltaromana.it.
Southeast of the city center lie several ancient sites that make the trek here worthwhile.
Inaugurated by Emperor Caracalla in A.D. 216, this massive bath complex could accommodate 1,600 visitors at a time. Today it’s just a shell—a huge shell—with all of its sculptures and most of its mosaics moved to museums. You’ll see a two-story roofless brick building surrounded by a garden, bordered by ruined walls. The two large rooms at either end of the building were used for exercise. In between the exercise rooms was a pool flanked by two small mosaic-floored dressing rooms. Niches in the walls once held statues. The baths’ statues are displayed elsewhere: For example, the immense Toro Farnese (a marble sculpture of a bull surrounded by people) snorts in Naples’ Archaeological Museum.
In its day, this was a remarkable place to hang out. For ancient Romans, bathing was a social experience. The Baths of Caracalla functioned until Goths severed the aqueducts in the sixth century. In modern times, grand operas are performed here during the summer (www.operaroma.it).
Cost and Hours: €6, includes the Tomb of Cecilia Metella and the Villa dei Quintili on the Appian Way, Mon 9:00-14:00, Tue-Sun 9:00 until one hour before sunset (roughly April-Sept 19:00, Oct 18:30, Nov-mid-Feb 16:30, mid-Feb-March 17:00), last entry one hour before closing, audioguide-€5, good €8 guidebook; Metro: Circo Maximus, then a 5-minute walk south along Via delle Terme di Caracalla; bus #714 from Termini train station or bus #118 from the Appian Way—see “Getting There” on here; tel. 06-3996-7700.
For a taste of the countryside around Rome and more wonders of Roman engineering, take the four-mile trip from the Colosseum out past the wall to a stretch of the ancient Appian Way, where the original pavement stones are lined by several interesting sights. Ancient Rome’s first and greatest highway, the Appian Way once ran from Rome to the Adriatic port of Brindisi, the gateway to Greece. Today you can walk (or bike) some stretches of the road, rattling over original paving stones, past crumbling monuments that once edged the sides.
The wonder of its day, the Appian Way was the largest, widest, fastest road ever, called the “Queen of Roads.” Begun in 312 B.C. and named after Appius Claudius Caecus (a Roman official), it connected Rome with Capua (near Naples), running in a straight line for much of the way, ignoring the natural contour of the land. Eventually, this most important of Roman roads stretched 430 miles to the port of Brindisi—the gateway to the East—where boats sailed for Greece and Egypt. Twenty-nine such roads fanned out from Rome. Just as Hitler built the Autobahn system in anticipation of empire maintenance, the expansion-minded Roman government realized the military and political value of a good road system.
Today the road and the landscape around it are preserved as a cultural park. For the tourist, the ancient Appian Way offers three attractions: the road itself, with its ruined monuments; the two major Christian catacombs open to visitors; and the peaceful atmosphere, which provides a respite from the city. Be aware, however, that the road today is very narrow (with high walls on both sides), busy with traffic, and actually quite treacherous in spots.
The road starts at the massive San Sebastiano Gate and Museum of the Walls, about two miles south of the Colosseum. The stretch that’s of most interest to tourists starts another two miles south of the gate. I like to begin near the Tomb of Cecilia Metella, at the far (southern) end of the key sights, and work northward (mostly downhill) toward central Rome.
When to Go: Visit in the morning or mid-afternoon (note that the Catacombs of San Callisto shut down from 12:00 to 14:00), but don’t go too late; the last tours at both catacombs depart at 16:30 (and other sights close as early as 16:00). All the recommended sights are open on Tuesday, Thursday, Friday, and Saturday. On Monday, several sights are closed, including the Tomb of Cecilia Metella and the Circus and Villa of Maxentius. On Wednesday, the Catacombs of San Callisto and the pedestrian path through the park are closed. On Sunday, the Catacombs of San Sebastiano are closed; however, the Appian Way is closed to most car traffic, making it a great day for walking or biking.
Getting There: Several buses run from Rome to the Appian Way, and some can also be used for connecting the dots along this tour—though there are some challenges. Stops are squeezed onto the very narrow (sometimes nonexistent) shoulder of the road, and the specific locations of the stops can change. Use the map as a guideline, but be flexible, and ask around to find the current locations. There are only a few places to buy bus tickets on the Appian Way (including the TI and the shop at the Catacombs of San Sebastiano)—have one in hand for your return trip.
Bus #660 is the best way to reach the Appian Way, since it drops you off at the Tomb of Cecilia Metella. In Rome, take Metro line A to the Colli Albani stop, where you catch bus #660 (2/hour) and ride 15 minutes to the last stop—Cecilia Metella/Via Appia Antica (at the intersection of Via Cecilia Metella and Via Appia Antica).
Bus #118 runs partway down the Appian Way, linking the major stops at the northern part (as far as the Catacombs of San Sebastiano). In Rome, catch #118 from either one of two Metro stops: Piramide (look for the bus-stop island right in front of the Metro station) or Circo Massimo; going away from the city center, it stops at the Baths of Caracalla, San Sebastiano Gate, Domine Quo Vadis Church, Catacombs of San Callisto, and Catacombs of San Sebastiano. In a pinch, you could use this bus to get to the starting point of our walk: Ride bus #118 to the San Sebastiano stop, then walk 500 yards (less than 10 minutes) to the Tomb of Cecilia Metella. Going back to Rome, bus #118 takes a somewhat different route (skipping the Catacombs of San Sebastiano); catch this northbound bus just up the road at the Catacombs of San Callisto or near Domine Quo Vadis.
Bus #218 goes from San Giovanni in Laterano to Domine Quo Vadis Church and the west entrance of the Catacombs of San Callisto, but isn’t useful for reaching Appian Way sights farther south.
The handy, but much more expensive, Archeobus runs from Termini train station to the major Appian Way sights (see “Tours,” here). It stops at all the key attractions—you can hop off, tour the sights, and pick up a later bus (officially runs twice hourly Fri-Sun during summer, but service can be spotty).
A taxi will get you from Rome to the Tomb of Cecilia Metella for about €20. However, to return by taxi, you’ll have to phone for one; there are no taxi stands on the Appian Way.
Getting Back: No matter how you arrive at the Appian Way, the bus is the easiest and cheapest way to return to Rome. Bus #118 has more stops along the Way, and takes you quickly to the Piramide Metro stop in Testaccio (end of the line). Bus #218 is handy to the northern part of the Way (including a stop near Domine Quo Vadis Church), and brings you to the San Giovanni in Laterano Church, where you can hop on the Metro (San Giovanni stop, line A) or transfer to another bus (#85 or #87 to the Colosseum and Piazza Venezia; #81 to Largo Argentina and the Vatican).
Information: The Via Appia Antica TI near Domine Quo Vadis Church gives out maps and information on the entire park, which stretches east and south of the visit outlined here (daily April-Oct 9:30-17:30, Nov-March 9:30-16:30, rents bikes, good €1 map, Via Appia Antica 58, tel. 06-513-5316, www.parcoappiaantica.it, general info at www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it/en).
The archaeological site of Capo di Bove has a small info center that sits deep in a tranquil, inviting garden surrounding active excavations (Mon-Sat 10:00-16:00, Sun 10:00-18:00, closes earlier in winter, good place for discreet picnic, clean WCs, Via Appia Antica 222, tel. 06-3996-7700); it’s 100 yards beyond (south of) Appia Antica Caffè, which also sells maps.
Services: Free WCs are at the San Sebastiano and San Callisto catacombs and at Capo di Bove, and WCs for paying customers are at the Tomb of Cecilia Metella and the Appia Antica Caffè. There are several fountains along the way for refilling water bottles.
A guide leads you underground through the tunnels where early Christians were buried. You’ll see faded frescoes and graffiti by early-Christian tag artists, as well as some pagan tombs that predate the Christian catacombs. Besides the catacombs themselves, there’s a historic fourth-century basilica with the relics of St. Sebastian, the (supposedly) original Quo Vadis footprints of Christ, and an exquisite Bernini statue. See the “Catacombs” sidebar for more information.
Cost and Hours: €8, includes 35-minute tour, 2/hour, Mon-Sat 10:00-17:00, closed Sun and late-Nov-late-Dec, last entry 30 minutes before closing, Via Appia Antica 136, tel. 06-785-0350, www.catacombe.org.
The larger of the two sets of catacombs, San Callisto also is the more prestigious, having been the burial site for several early popes.
Cost and Hours: €8, includes 30-minute tour, at least 2/hour, Thu-Tue 9:00-12:00 & 14:00-17:00, closed Wed and Feb, Via Appia Antica 110, tel. 06-513-0151, www.catacombe.roma.it.
For an exciting day trip, pop down to the Roman port of Ostia, which is similar to Pompeii but a lot closer and, in some ways, more interesting. Because Ostia was a working port town, it shows a more complete and gritty look at Roman life than wealthier Pompeii. Wandering around today, you’ll see warehouses, apartment flats, mansions, shopping arcades, and baths that served a once-thriving port of 60,000 people. With over 70 peaceful park-like acres to explore and relatively few crowds, it’s a welcome break from the bustle of Rome. Buy a map, then explore the town, including the 2,000-year-old theater. Finish with its fine little museum.
Cost and Hours: €8 for the site and museum, €10 with special exhibits, April-Aug Tue-Sun 8:30-19:15, Sept Tue-Sun 8:30-19:00, Oct Tue-Sun 8:30-18:30, Nov-mid-Feb Tue-Sun 8:30-16:30, mid-Feb-March Tue-Sun 8:30-17:00, late March Tue-Sun 8:30-17:30, closed Mon year-round, last entry one hour before closing. The museum sometimes closes from 13:30 to 14:30 for lunch.
The catacombs are burial places for (mostly) Christians who died in ancient Roman times. By law, no one was allowed to be buried within the walls of Rome. While pagan Romans were into cremation, Christians preferred to be buried (so that they could be resurrected when the time came). But land was expensive, and most Christians were poor. A few wealthy, landowning Christians allowed their properties to be used as burial places.
The 40 or so known catacombs are scattered outside the ancient walls of Rome. Catacombe means, literally, “near the quarry”—as some of these were dug into the exposed walls of existing quarries. From the first through the fifth centuries, Christians dug an estimated 375 miles of tomb-lined tunnels, with networks of galleries as many as five layers deep. The volcanic tuff that Rome sits atop—which is soft and easy to cut, but hardens when exposed to air—was perfect for the job. The Christians burrowed many layers deep for two reasons: to get more mileage out of the donated land, and to be near martyrs and saints already buried there. Bodies were wrapped in linen (like Christ’s). Since they figured the Second Coming was imminent, there was no interest in embalming the body. They called this place a dormitorio—a “place to sleep” while awaiting the rapture. After each corpse was laid to rest, it was covered with a stone slab—though most of these are now long-gone, shattered by looters and vandals.
When Emperor Constantine legalized Christianity in A.D. 313, Christians had a new, interesting problem: There would be no more recently persecuted martyrs to bind them together and inspire them. Instead, the early martyrs and popes assumed more importance, and Christians began making pilgrimages to their burial places in the catacombs.
In the 800s, when barbarian invaders started ransacking the tombs, Christians moved the relics of saints and martyrs to the safety of churches in the city center. For a thousand years, the catacombs were forgotten. In early modern times, they were excavated and became part of the Romantic Age’s Grand Tour of Europe.
When abandoned plates and utensils from ritual meals were found, 18th- and 19th-century Romantics guessed that persecuted Christians hid out in these candlelit galleries. The popularity of this legend grew, even though it was untrue: By the second century, more than a million people lived in Rome, and the 10,000 early Christians didn’t need to camp out in the catacombs. They hid in plain view, melting into obscurity within the city itself.
The underground tunnels, while empty of bones, are rich in early Christian symbolism, which functioned as a secret language. The dove represented the soul. You’ll see it quenching its thirst (worshipping), with an olive branch (at rest), or happily perched (in paradise). Peacocks, known for their purportedly “incorruptible flesh,” embodied immortality. The shepherd with a lamb on his shoulders was the “good shepherd,” the first portrayal of Christ as a kindly leader of his flock. The fish was used because the first letters of these words—“Jesus Christ, Son of God, Savior”—spelled “fish” in Greek. The combination of an X and a P was actually a chi and a rho—the first two letters of CHRist’s name in the Greek alphabet. And the anchor, a cross in disguise, symbolized how true believers felt anchored by their faith. Some fragments were stamped with the hallmark of the mason who created it. A second-century bishop had written on his tomb, “All who understand these things, pray for me.” You’ll see pictures of people praying with their hands raised—the custom at the time.
Information: A map of the site with suggested itineraries is available for €2 from the ticket office. Tel. 06-5635-0215. Helpful websites include www.ostiaantica.beniculturali.it and www.ostia-antica.org.
Audio Tour: Although you’ll see little audioguide markers throughout the site, there may not be audioguides for rent. But you can download a free Rick Steves audio tour of Ostia Antica to your mobile device; see here.
Getting There: Getting to Ostia Antica from downtown Rome is a snap—it’s a 45-minute combination Metro/train ride. (Since the train is part of the Metro system, it only costs one Metro ticket each way—€3 total round-trip.)
From Rome, take Metro line B to the Piramide stop, which is attached to the Roma Porta San Paolo train station. The train tracks are just a few steps from the Metro tracks: Follow signs to Lido—go up the escalator, turn left, and go down the steps into the Roma-Lido station. All trains depart in the direction of Lido, leave every 15 minutes, and stop at Ostia Antica along the way. The lighted schedule reads something like, “Prossima partenza alle ore 13.25, bin 3,” meaning, “Next departure at 13:25 from track 3.” Look for the next train, hop on, ride for about 30 minutes (no need to stamp your Metro ticket again, but keep it handy in case they decide to check), and get off at the Ostia Antica stop.
Leaving the train station in Ostia Antica, cross the road via the blue skybridge and walk straight down Via della Stazione di Ostia Antica, continuing straight until you reach the parking lot. The entrance is to your left. (If you don’t have a ticket to get back, purchase one at the ticket window at the station, or from the nearby snack bar.)
Sightseeing Tip: If you’re using the Metro and want to maximize sightseeing efficiency on your Ostia day trip, consider visiting the sights in south Rome on your return. The Piramide Metro stop—where you’ll change trains—really is next to a pyramid, and is on the edge of the Testaccio neighborhood, which has several interesting sights. Other south Rome sights include St. Paul’s Outside the Walls, E.U.R., and the Montemartini Museum (for more on all of these, see here).
Haggle if you arrive late in the day during off-season (roughly mid-July through August and November through mid-March). It’s common for hotels in Rome to lower their prices 10-50 percent in the off-season, although prices at hostels and the cheaper hotels won’t fluctuate much. Room rates are lowest in sweltering August.
Traffic in Rome roars. Thanks to double-paned windows and air-conditioning, night noise is not the problem it once was. Even so, light sleepers who ask for a tranquillo room will likely get a room in the back...and sleep better. Once you actually see your room, consider the potential problem of night noise. If necessary, don’t hesitate to ask for a quieter room. Almost no hotels have parking, but nearly all have a line on spots in a nearby garage (about €24/day).
For tips on making reservations, see here.
Convents: Although I list just a few, Rome has many convents that rent out rooms. See the Church of Santa Susanna’s website for a list (www.santasusanna.org, select “Coming to Rome”). At convents, the beds are twins and English is often in short supply, but the price is right. Consider these nun-run places, all listed in this section: the expensive but divine Casa di Santa Brigida (near Campo de’ Fiori), Suore di Santa Elisabetta (near Santa Maria Maggiore), Casa Il Rosario (near Piazza Venezia), and Casa per Ferie Santa Maria alle Fornaci (near the Vatican).
Hostels: If going the hostel route, consider the ones I list in this section (within a 10-minute walk of Termini train station), or check www.backpackers.it for more listings.
While not as atmospheric as other areas of Rome, the hotels near Termini train station are less expensive, and public-transportation options link these places easily with the entire city. The city’s two Metro lines intersect at the station, and most buses leave from here. Piazza Venezia is a 20-minute walk down Via Nazionale.
Most of these hotels are on or near Via Firenze, a safe, handy, central, and relatively quiet street that’s a 10-minute walk from Termini train station and the airport train, and two blocks beyond Piazza della Repubblica. The Defense Ministry is nearby, so you’ve got heavily armed guards watching over you all night.
The neighborhood is well-connected by public transportation (with the Repubblica Metro stop nearby). Virtually all the city buses that rumble down Via Nazionale (#60, #64, #70, and the #40 express) take you to Piazza Venezia (Forum). From Piazza Venezia, bus #64 (jammed with people and thieves) and the #40 express bus continue to Largo Argentina (Pantheon, Campo de’ Fiori) and the Vatican area. Or, at Piazza Venezia, you can transfer to tram #8 to Trastevere (get off at first stop after crossing the river). Bus #H also makes the journey to Trastevere, leaving from Piazza della Repubblica (on the northeast side of the square, near the entrance to Baths of Diocletian). If you are staying near the Santa Susanna and Santa Maria della Vittoria churches, buses from nearby Largo Santa Susanna (#62, #85, #116, #175, and #492) wind through the city center (leaving from the Bissolati stop; returning the stop name is Largo S. Susanna).
To stock your closet pantry, pop over to Despar Supermarket (daily 8:00-21:00, Via Nazionale 213, at the corner of Via Venezia). A 24-hour pharmacy near the recommended hotels is Farmacia Piram (Via Nazionale 228, tel. 06-488-4437).
$$$ Residenza Cellini feels like the guest wing of a gorgeous Neoclassical palace. It offers 11 rooms, “ortho/anti-allergy beds,” four-star comforts and service, and a breezy breakfast terrace (Db-€190, larger Db-€210, extra bed-€25, prices good through 2015 with this book and cash, air-con, elevator, guest computer, Wi-Fi, Via Modena 5, reception on third floor, tel. 06-4782-5204, www.residenzacellini.it, residenzacellini@tin.it, Barbara, Gaetano, and Donato). They hope to open a seven-room annex in the same building in 2015.
$$$ Hotel Modigliani, a delightful 23-room place, is energetically run in a clean, bright, minimalist yet in-love-with-life style that its artist namesake would appreciate. It has a vast and plush lounge, a garden, and a newsletter introducing you to each of the staff (Db-€202, check website for deals and ask for a 10 percent Rick Steves discount when you book direct through 2015, air-con, elevator, Wi-Fi; northwest of Via Firenze—from Tritone Fountain on Piazza Barberini, go 2 blocks up Via della Purificazione to #42; tel. 06-4281-5226, www.hotelmodigliani.com, info@hotelmodigliani.com, Giulia and Marco).
$$$ IQ Hotel, facing the Opera House, feels almost Scandinavian in its efficiency, without a hint of the Old World. It lacks charm, but more than compensates with modern amenities. Its 88 rooms are fresh and spacious, the roof garden comes with a play area and foosball, and vending machines dispense bottles of wine (Db-€100-230 depending on room size and season—likely €200 in peak season, €40 extra for third and fourth person, 10 percent discount off best Web price for Rick Steves readers through 2015—must book direct and request at time of booking, breakfast-€10, air-con, elevator, guest computer, Wi-Fi, cheap self-service laundry, gym, Via Firenze 8, tel. 06-488-0465, www.iqhotelroma.it, info@iqhotelroma.it, manager Diego).
$$$ Hotel Rex is modern, cool, and sleek, but also family-friendly, with an engaging lounge and a rooftop breakfast terrace (Db-€197, air-con, elevator, guest computer, Wi-Fi, Via Torino 149, tel. 06-482-4828, www.hotelrex.net, rex@hotelrex.net).
$$ Hotel Oceania is a peaceful slice of air-conditioned heaven. This 24-room manor house-type hotel is spacious and quiet, with tastefully decorated rooms. Stefano runs a fine staff, serves wonderful coffee, provides lots of thoughtful extra touches, and works hard to maintain a caring family atmosphere (Sb-€135, Db-€168, Tb-€198, Qb-€220, these prices good through 2015 with this book, 5 percent discount if you pay cash, deep discounts summer and winter, family suite, elevator, guest computer, Wi-Fi, videos in the TV lounge, Via Firenze 38, third floor, tel. 06-482-4696, www.hoteloceania.it, info@hoteloceania.it; Anna and Radu round out the staff).
$$ Hotel Aberdeen, which perfectly combines quality and friendliness, is warmly run by Annamaria, with support from sister Laura and cousin Cinzia, and staff members Mariano and Costel. The 37 comfy, modern rooms are a fine value (Sb-€102, Db-€170, Tb-€180, Qb-€200, for these rates—or better—book direct via email or use the “Rick Steves reader reservations” link on their website, air-con, guest computer, Wi-Fi, Via Firenze 48, tel. 06-482-3920, www.hotelaberdeen.it, info@hotelaberdeen.it).
$$ Hotel Opera Roma, with contemporary furnishings and marble accents, boasts 15 spacious, modern, and thoughtfully appointed rooms. It’s quiet and just a stone’s throw from the Opera House (Db-€150, Tb-€165, for these rates book direct and mention Rick Steves, 5 percent discount if you pay cash, air-con, elevator, guest computer, Wi-Fi, Via Firenze 11, tel. 06-487-1787, www.hoteloperaroma.com, info@hoteloperaroma.com, Reza, Litu, and Federica).
$$ Hotel Sonya offers 40 well-equipped if small rooms, a hearty breakfast, and decent prices (Sb-€90, Db-€150, Tb-€165, Qb-€185, Quint/b-€200, 5 percent discount with this book if you pay cash through 2015, air-con, elevator, guest computer, Wi-Fi, faces the Opera House at Via Viminale 58, Metro: Repubblica or Termini, tel. 06-481-9911, www.hotelsonya.it, info@hotelsonya.it, Francesca and Ivan).
$$ Hotel Selene Roma spreads its 40 stylish rooms out on a few floors of a big palazzo. With elegant furnishings and room to breathe, it’s a fine value (Db-€160, Tb-€190, email direct for 10 percent discount, additional 5 percent discount if you pay cash upon arrival, air-con, elevator, Wi-Fi, family rooms, Via del Viminale 8, tel. 06-474-4781, www.hotelseleneroma.it, reception@hotelseleneroma.it).
$$ Target Inn is a sleek, practical six-room place next to Residenza Cellini (listed earlier). It’s owned by the same people who run the recommended Target Restaurant nearby (Db-€150, this special price for Rick Steves readers through 2015, air-con, elevator, Wi-Fi, Via Modena 5, third floor, tel. 06-474-5399, www.targetinn.com, info@targetinn.com).
$$ Bellesuite Rome offers six rooms that feel dated for the price, but are worth considering for the location—in the same fine building as Residenza Cellini and Target Inn (Db-€160, Tb-€199, Qb-€240, 5 percent discount through 2015 if you show this book and pay cash, air-con, elevator, Wi-Fi, Via Modena 5, third floor, tel. 06-9521-3049, www.bellesuiterome.com, mail@bellesuiterome.com).
$ Hotel Nardizzi Americana, with a small rooftop terrace and 40 standard rooms spread throughout the building, is another decent value (Sb-€95, Db-€125, Tb-€155, Qb-€175; to get the best rates, check their “Rick Steves readers reservations” link along with the rest of their website; additional 10 percent off any price if you pay cash, air-con, elevator, Wi-Fi, Via Firenze 38, reception on fourth floor, tel. 06-488-0035, www.hotelnardizzi.it, info@hotelnardizzi.it; friendly Stefano, Fabrizio, Mario, and Giancarlo).
$ Hotel Italia Roma, in a busy and handy locale, is located safely on a quiet street next to the Ministry of the Interior. Thoughtfully run by Andrea, Sabrina, Abdul, and Gabriel, it has 35 modest but comfortable rooms (Sb-€80, Db-€120, Tb-€150, Qb-€180, book direct via email for these rates, air-con, elevator, guest computer, Wi-Fi, Via Venezia 18, just off Via Nazionale, tel. 06-482-8355, www.hotelitaliaroma.it, info@hotelitaliaroma.it). The four “residenza” rooms upstairs on the third floor are newer and about €10 more expensive. They also have eight similar annex rooms across the street for the same price as the main hotel.
$ Hotel Margaret offers few frills and 12 simple rooms at a fair price (Db-€110, Tb-€140, Qb-€155, mention this book and pay cash for best rates, air-con, elevator, Wi-Fi, north of Piazza Repubblica at Via Antonio Salandra 6, fourth floor, tel. 06-482-4285, www.hotelmargaret.net, info@hotelmargaret.net, Emanuela).
These good-value places cluster around the basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore, on the edge of Rome’s international district.
$ Hotel Montreal is a basic three-star place with 27 small rooms on a big street a block southeast of Santa Maria Maggiore (Sb-€90, Db-€110, Tb-€135, email direct and ask for a Rick Steves discount, air-con, elevator, guest computer, Wi-Fi, small garden terrace, good security, Via Carlo Alberto 4, 1 block from Metro: Vittorio Emanuele, 3 blocks from Termini train station, tel. 06-445-7797, www.hotelmontrealroma.it, info@hotelmontrealroma.it, Pasquale).
$ Suore di Santa Elisabetta is a heavenly Polish-run convent with a serene garden and 70 beds in tidy twin-bedded (only) rooms. Often booked long in advance, with such tranquility it’s a super value (S-€40, Sb-€48, D-€66, Db-€85, Tb-€106, Qb-€128, Quint/b-€142, fans but no air-con, elevator serves top floors only, fine view roof terrace and breakfast hall, 23:00 curfew, a block southwest of Santa Maria Maggiore at Via dell’Olmata 9, Metro: Termini or Vittorio Emanuele, tel. 06-488-8271, www.csse-roma.eu, ist.it.s.elisabetta@libero.it).
$ Gulliver’s Lodge has four colorful rooms on the ground floor of a large, secure building. While on a busy street, the rooms are quiet. Although the public spaces are few, in-room extras like DVD players (and DVDs, including my Italy shows) make it a fine home base (Db-€120, Tb-€145, includes small breakfast at nearby bar, mention this book for these prices through 2015, cash only, air-con, guest computer, Wi-Fi, a 15-minute walk southwest of Termini train station at Via Cavour 101, Metro: Cavour, tel. 06-9727-3787, www.gulliverslodge.com, info@gulliverslodge.com, Sara and Mary).
The cheapest beds in town are northeast of Termini train station (Metro: Termini). Some travelers feel this area is weird and spooky after dark, but these hotels feel plenty safe. With your back to the train tracks, turn right and walk two blocks out of the station. Splashnet launderette/Internet café is handy (€8 full-serve wash and dry, guest computer-€1.50/hour, €2 luggage storage per day—or free if you wash and go online, daily 8:30-23:00, just off Via Milazzo at Via Varese 33, tel. 06-4470-3523).
$ The Beehive gives vagabonds—old and young—a cheap, clean, and comfy home in Rome. Thoughtfully and creatively run by Steve and Linda, a friendly American couple, and their hardworking staff, the place offers six great-value artsy-mod double rooms (D-€80, T-€120) and an eight-bed dorm (€35 bunks) in the main building (with no air-con, only fans). Their nearby annex, The Sweets, has similar style and several rooms with private baths (Sb-€70, D-€90, Db-€100, air-con-€10; breakfast extra, guest computer, Wi-Fi, private garden terrace, dinner available some nights, 2 blocks from Termini train station at Via Marghera 8, tel. 06-4470-4553, www.the-beehive.com, info@the-beehive.com). They’re also a good resource for apartments across the city (www.cross-pollinate.com).
$ Hotel Select Garden, a modern and comfortable 21-room hotel run by the cheery Picca family, boasts lively modern art adorning the walls and a beautiful lemon-tree garden. It’s a safe, tranquil, and welcoming refuge just a couple of blocks from the train station (Sb-€95, Db-€125, Tb-€145, book direct and mention Rick Steves for these prices through 2015, air-con, Wi-Fi, Via V. Bachelet 6, tel. 06-445-6383, www.hotelselectgarden.com, info@hotelselectgarden.com, Cristina and Maurizia).
$ Hotel Sileo, with shiny chandeliers in dim rooms, is a homey little place renting 10 basic rooms. It’s worn, but run with warmth by friendly Alessandro and Maria Savioli (who don’t speak English) and their daughter Anna (who does); their other daughter, Stefania, painted the wall murals (Db-€70, Tb-€85, mention Rick Steves to get these prices through 2015, discount if you pay cash, air-con, elevator, Wi-Fi, Via Magenta 39, fourth floor, tel. 06-445-0246, www.hotelsileo.com, info@hotelsileo.com).
$ Hotel Robinson is just a few steps from the station, but tucked away from the commotion. Set on an interior courtyard, it has 20 small and simple rooms, handsomely decorated with dark-wood accents, that are a good value (Sb-€65, Db-€85, Tb-€120, mention this book for these rates and a small breakfast plus free air-con, Wi-Fi, Via Milazzo 3, tel. 06-491-423, www.hotelrobinsonrome.com, info@hotelrobinsonrome.com).
$ Yellow Hostel rents 220 beds in 4-, 6-, and 10-bed dorms to 18- through 40-year-olds only (I’d skip their 16 private rooms, which are basic and overpriced). Hip yet sane, it’s well-run with fine facilities, including lockers and a café/late-night bar (€18-40/bed depending on plumbing, size, and season, Db-€140; reserve online—no telephone reservations accepted, breakfast extra, loaner towels, elevator, Wi-Fi, loaner iPads, no curfew, 6 blocks from station, just past Via Vicenza at Via Palestro 40, tel. 06-4938-2682, www.yellowhostel.com, questions@the-yellow.com).
$ Funny Palace Hostel, adjacent to Splashnet and run by the same entrepreneurial owner, Mabri, rents dorm beds in quiet four-person rooms and 18 stark-but-clean private rooms. It’s far less convivial than Yellow Hostel, but suitable for introverts (dorm beds-€30, Db-€100, cash only, includes breakfast in café, elevator, lockers, guest kitchen, Wi-Fi, reception in the launderette—described earlier, Via Varese 33, tel. 06-4470-3523, www.hostelfunny.com, info@hostelfunny.com).
Stretching from the Colosseum to Piazza Venezia, this area is central. Sightseers are a short walk from the Colosseum, Roman Forum, and Trajan’s Column—and all of these listings (except Hotel Lancelot) are near or in the charming Monti district, with good restaurants and shopping. While buses are your best bet here, I list a Metro stop if it’s convenient.
$$$ Hotel Lancelot is a comfortable refuge—a 60-room hotel with the ambience of a B&B. Located in a pleasant, low-key residential neighborhood a 10-minute stroll or easy tram or bus ride beyond the Colosseum, it’s quiet and safe, with a shady courtyard, restaurant, bar, and tiny communal sixth-floor terrace. It’s well-run by Faris and Lubna Khan, who serve a good €25 dinner—a chance to connect with your hotel neighbors and the friendly staff. No wonder it’s popular with returning guests (Sb-€130, Db-€200, Tb-€230, Qb-€270, €20 extra for sixth-floor terrace room with a Colosseum view, 5 percent off these rates in 2015 if you book direct and mention Rick Steves, air-con, elevator, wheelchair-accessible, Wi-Fi, parking-€10/day, 10-minute walk behind Colosseum near San Clemente Church at Via Capo d’Africa 47, tel. 06-7045-0615, www.lancelothotel.com, info@lancelothotel.com). Faris and Lubna speak the Queen’s English.
$$$ Hotel Nerva is a boutiquey, snazzy slice of tranquility with 19 small, overpriced (but often discounted) rooms. It sits on a quiet, ideally located side street that faces the Roman Forum and has the lovable Monti neighborhood in its backyard (Sb-€160, Db-€230, extra bed-€50, book direct and use promo code “RICKSTEVES” for an additional discount through 2015, air-con, elevator, Wi-Fi, Via Tor de’ Conti 3, tel. 06-678-1835, www.hotelnerva.com, info@hotelnerva.com, Antonio and Paolo).
$$ Hotel Paba is a cozy throwback, with seven fresh rooms, chocolate-box-tidy and lovingly cared for by Alberta Castelli. It’s just two blocks from the Forum. Although it overlooks busy Via Cavour, it’s quiet enough (Db-€135, extra bed-€40, 5 percent discount if you pay cash, big beds, breakfast served in room, air-con, elevator, Wi-Fi, Via Cavour 266, Metro: Cavour, tel. 06-4782-4902, www.hotelpaba.com, info@hotelpaba.com).
$$ Nicolas Inn Bed & Breakfast, a delightful little four-room place with thoughtful touches, is spacious and bright. While on a busy street, it’s just steps from the lively Monti district. It’s run by François and American expat Melissa, who make you feel like you have caring friends in Rome (Db-€150-170, 10 percent Rick Steves discount with this book through 2015, cash only, includes breakfast served at neighboring bar, air-con, Wi-Fi, Via Cavour 295, tel. 06-9761-8483, www.nicolasinn.com, info@nicolasinn.com).
$$ Hotel Raffaello, with its courteous and professional staff, offers 41 rooms in a grand 19th-century building in Monti. This formal hotel comes with generous public spaces and a breakfast room fit for aristocrats (Sb-€80-100, Db-€120-180, Tb-€168-228, family room-€210-270, save by booking direct, breakfast included, air-con, Via Urbana 3, Metro: Cavour, tel. 06-488-4342, www.hotelraffaello.it, info@hotelraffaello.it, helpful Elena).
$ Hotel Antica Locanda is a quiet gem in the heart of Monti. While the entrance is nothing special and stairs are plentiful, the seven rooms—each named for a composer or artist—come with stylish furnishings that are romantically rustic. The rooftop terrace is great for sunbathing or relaxing with a sunset drink (Db-€90-140, Tb-€120-170, breakfast included, air-con, no elevator, Via del Boschetto 84, Metro: Cavour, tel. 06-484-894, www.anticalocandaroma.it, anticalocandaroma@gmail.com).
$ Domus Nova Bethlem, run by the Oblate Sisters of Baby Jesus, is a spacious, pristine, and institutional-feeling hotel in the Monti district. The 24 high-ceilinged rooms are modest yet classy, and guests have access to a peaceful and leafy courtyard garden (Sb-€88, Db-€110-135, Tb-€140-175, family rooms, breakfast included, air-con, Wi-Fi, 1:00 in the morning curfew, Via Cavour 85A, Metro: Cavour, tel. 06-4782-4414, www.domusnovabethlem.it, info@domusnovabethlem.it).
$ Hotel Rosetta, a homey and family-run pensione in the same building as Nicolas Inn, rents 15 simple rooms. It’s pretty minimal, with no lounge and no breakfast, but its great location makes it a fine budget option (Sb-€70, Db-€95, Tb-€110, air-con, Wi-Fi, Via Cavour 295, tel. 06-4782-3069, www.rosettahotel.com, info@rosettahotel.com, Antonietta and Francesca).
$ Casa Il Rosario is a peaceful, well-run Dominican convent renting 40 rooms with monastic simplicity to both pilgrims and tourists in a steep but pleasant corner of the Monti neighborhood (reserve several months in advance, S-€42, Sb-€56, Db-€94, Tb-€120, single beds only but can be pushed together, some rooms with air-con and others with fans, elevator, guest computer, Wi-Fi, picnics welcome in small garden or on rooftop terrace, 23:00 curfew, midway between Quirinale and Colosseum near bottom of Via Nazionale at Via Sant’Agata dei Goti 10, bus #40 or #170 from Termini, tel. 06-679-2346, irodopre@tin.it).
Winding, narrow lanes filled with foot traffic and lined with boutique shops and tiny trattorias...this is village Rome at its best. And like a real village, buses are the only practical way to connect with other destinations. The atmosphere doesn’t come cheap, but this is where you want to be—especially at night, when Romans and tourists gather in the floodlit piazzas for the evening stroll, the passeggiata.
You’ll pay a premium (and endure a little extra night noise) to stay in the old center. But each of these places is romantically set deep in the tangled back streets near the idyllic Campo de’ Fiori and, for many, worth the extra money.
$$$ Casa di Santa Brigida overlooks the elegant Piazza Farnese. With soft-spoken sisters gliding down polished hallways and pearly gates instead of doors, this lavish 20-room convent makes exhaust-stained Roman tourists feel like they’ve died and gone to heaven. If you don’t need a double bed or a TV in your room, it’s worth the splurge—especially if you luxuriate in its ample public spaces or on its lovely roof terrace (Sb-€120, twin Db-€200, book well in advance, air-con, elevator, guest computer, Wi-Fi, tasty €25 dinners, roof garden, plush library, Monserrato 54, tel. 06-6889-2596, www.brigidine.org, piazzafarnese@brigidine.org, many of the sisters are from India and speak English—pray you get to work with wonderful sister Gertrude).
$$$ Relais Teatro Argentina, a six-room gem, is steeped in tasteful old-Rome elegance, but has all the modern comforts. It’s cozy and quiet like a B&B and couldn’t be more centrally located (Db-€210, Tb-€255, discounts if you pay cash and stay 3 nights or more, air-con, no elevator, 3 flights of stairs, guest computer, Wi-Fi, Via del Sudario 35, tel. 06-9893-1617, mobile 331-198-4708, www.relaisteatroargentina.com, info@relaisteatroargentina.com, Carlotta).
$$ Hotel Smeraldo, with 50 rooms, is strictly run by an impersonal staff, but it’s clean and a reasonable deal (Sb-€110, Db-€140, Tb-€170, buffet breakfast free in 2015 if you show this book, air-con, elevator, guest computer, Wi-Fi, flowery roof terrace, midway between Campo de’ Fiori and Largo Argentina at Vicolo dei Chiodaroli 9, tel. 06-687-5929, www.smeraldoroma.com, info@smeraldoroma.com; Massimo, Walter, and Eugenio). Their Dipendenza Smeraldo, 10 yards around the corner at Via dei Chiavari 32, has 16 similar rooms (same price and free breakfast, same reception and contact info).
$$ Hotel Arenula, with 50 decent rooms, is the only hotel in Rome’s old Jewish ghetto. Though it has the ambience of a gym and attracts lots of students, it is in the thick of old Rome (Sb-€100, Db-€140, 5 percent off with this book in 2015, extra bed-€21, air-con, no elevator, Wi-Fi, opposite the fountain in the park on Via Arenula at Via Santa Maria de’ Calderari 47, tel. 06-687-9454, www.hotelarenula.com, info@hotelarenula.com).
These places are buried in the pedestrian-friendly heart of ancient Rome, each within about a five-minute walk of the Pantheon. You’ll pay more here—but you’ll save time and money by being exactly where you want to be for your early and late wandering.
$$$ Hotel Nazionale, a four-star landmark, is a 16th-century palace that shares a well-policed square with the Parliament building. Its 100 rooms are accentuated by lush public spaces, fancy bars, a uniformed staff, and a marble-floored restaurant. It’s a big, stuffy hotel but it’s a worthy splurge if you want security, comfort, and the heart of Rome at your doorstep (Sb-€220, Db-€390, giant deluxe Db-€530, extra person-€70, check online for summer and weekend discounts—you’ll typically save 30 percent off their sky-high rack rates, air-con, elevator, Wi-Fi, Piazza Montecitorio 131, tel. 06-695-001, www.hotelnazionale.it, info@hotelnazionale.it).
$$$ Albergo Santa Chiara, in the old center, is big, solid, and hotelesque. Flavia, Silvio, and their fine staff offer marbled elegance (but basic furniture) and all the hotel services. Its ample public lounges are dressy and professional, and its 99 rooms are quiet and spacious (Sb-€138, Db-€215, Tb-€260, check website for discounts, book online direct and request special Rick Steves rates, elevator, air-con, Wi-Fi, behind Pantheon at Via di Santa Chiara 21, tel. 06-687-2979, www.albergosantachiara.com, info@albergosantachiara.com).
$$$ Hotel Portoghesi is a classic hotel with 27 colorful rooms in the medieval heart of Rome. It’s peaceful, quiet, and calmly run, and comes with a delightful roof terrace—though you pay for the location (Sb-€160, Db-€200, Tb-€260, Qb suite-€300, €30 extra for bigger deluxe room, breakfast on roof, air-con, elevator, Wi-Fi, Via dei Portoghesi 1, tel. 06-686-4231, www.hotelportoghesiroma.it, info@hotelportoghesiroma.it).
$$$ Hotel Due Torri, hiding out on a tiny quiet street, is beautifully located. It feels professional yet homey, with an accommodating staff, generous public spaces, and 26 rooms (the ones on upper floors are smaller but have views). While the location and lounge are great, the rooms are overpriced unless you score a discount (Sb-€125, Db-€200, family apartment-€240 for 3 and €265 for 4, check website for frequent discounts, air-con, elevator, Wi-Fi, a block off Via della Scrofa at Vicolo del Leonetto 23, tel. 06-6880-6956, www.hotelduetorriroma.com, info@hotelduetorriroma.com, Cinzia).
$$$ Hotel San Carlo is buried in the thick of Rome’s bustling “shopping triangle,” which also has many restaurants. Its 50 rooms, connected by a treehouse floor plan, provide a tranquil haven (Sb-€125, standard Db-€195, superior Db-€224, 10 percent discount with this book through 2015, air-con, elevator, guest computer, Wi-Fi, Via delle Carrozze 92—see map on here, tel. 06-678-4548, www.hotelsancarloroma.com, info@hotelsancarloroma.com).
Colorful and genuine in a gritty sort of way, Trastevere is a treat for travelers looking for a less touristy and more bohemian atmosphere. Choices are few here, and public transit is limited to a few buses and trams. But by trekking across the Tiber, you can have the experience of being comfortably immersed in old Rome.
$$$ Residenza Arco dei Tolomei is your most poetic Trastevere experience imaginable, with six small, unique, antique-filled rooms, some boasting fragrant balconies. With its quiet and elegant setting, you can pretend you’re visiting aristocratic relatives (Db-€205, discounts if you pay cash and stay more than 3 nights, reserve well in advance, guest computer, Wi-Fi, from Piazza Piscinula a block up Via dell’Arco de’ Tolomei at #27, tel. 06-5832-0819, www.bbarcodeitolomei.com, info@bbarcodeitolomei.com; Marco and Gianna Paola).
$$$ Hotel Santa Maria sits like a lazy hacienda in the midst of Trastevere. Surrounded by a medieval skyline, you’ll feel as if you’re on some romantic stage set. Its 20 small but well-equipped, air-conditioned rooms—former cells in a cloister—are all on the ground floor, as are a few suites for up to six people. The rooms circle a gravelly courtyard of orange trees and stay-awhile patio furniture (Db-€190, Tb-€230; prices good through 2015 with this book, cash, and minimum stay of three nights; family rooms, free loaner bikes, guest computer, Wi-Fi, face church on Piazza Maria Trastevere and go right down Via della Fonte d’Olio 50 yards to Vicolo del Piede 2, tel. 06-589-4626, www.hotelsantamariatrastevere.it, info@hotelsantamaria.info). Some rooms come with family-friendly fold-down bunks for €30 extra per person. Their freshly renovated six-room Residenza Santa Maria is a couple of blocks away (same prices, www.residenzasantamaria.com).
$$ Casa San Giuseppe is down a characteristic laundry-strewn lane with a sunny roof terrace and views of Aurelian Walls. While convent-owned, it’s a secular place renting 29 plain but peaceful, spacious rooms that are getting a bit long in the tooth (Sb-€115, Db-€155, Tb-€190, Qb-€220, garden-facing rooms are quiet, air-con, elevator, guest computer, Wi-Fi in lobby, parking-€15/day, just north of Piazza Trilussa at Vicolo Moroni 22, tel. 06-5833-3490, www.casasangiuseppe.it, info@casasangiuseppe.it, Matteo).
$$ Arco del Lauro B&B rents six white, minimalist rooms in a good location. Facing a courtyard (no views but little noise), the friendly welcome and good value make up for the lack of public spaces (Db-€135, Qb-€185, prices good if booked direct, cash only, 3-4 night minimum stay over weekends in high season, includes breakfast served in a café, air-con, guest computer, Wi-Fi, from Piazza Piscinula a block up Via dell’Arco de’ Tolomei at #29, tel. 06-9784-0350, mobile 346-244-3212, www.arcodellauro.it, info@arcodellauro.it, Lorenza and Daniela).
$$ Hotel San Francesco, big and blocky yet welcoming, stands like a practical and efficient oasis at the edge of all the Trastevere action. Renting 24 trim rooms in this authentic district, it comes with an inviting roof terrace and a helpful staff. Handy trams to Piazza Venezia are just a couple of blocks away (Db-€90-180, prices vary wildly, email direct and mention this book for best rates, air-con, elevator, Wi-Fi, Via Jacopa de’ Settesoli 7, tel. 06-5830-0051, www.hotelsanfrancesco.net, hotelsanfrancesco@gmail.com).
Sleeping near the Vatican is expensive, but some enjoy calling this more relaxed, residential neighborhood home. While jammed with tourists, the tree-lined streets are wider than in the historical center, and it feels less claustrophobic. Even though it’s handy to the Vatican (when the rapture hits, you’re right there), everything else is a long way away. Fortunately, it’s well-served by public transit—use the Metro (line A) and bus (ask your hotel for the most convenient routes) to easily connect with the center.
$$$ Hotel Alimandi Vaticano, facing the Vatican Museum, is beautifully designed. Run by the Alimandi family (Enrico, Irene, and Germano), it features four stars, 24 spacious rooms, and all the modern comforts you can imagine (Sb-€170, standard Db-€200, big Db with 2 double beds-€260, Tb-€260, 5 percent discount if you pay cash, air-con, elevator, guest computer, Wi-Fi, Viale Vaticano 99, Metro: Ottaviano, tel. 06-3974-5562, www.alimandi.com, alimandivaticano@alimandi.com).
$$$ Hotel Alimandi Tunisi is a good value, run by other members of the friendly and entrepreneurial Alimandi family—Paolo, Luigi, Marta, and Barbara. They have 27 modest but comfortable rooms and vast public spaces, including a piano lounge, pool table, and rooftop terrace where the grand buffet breakfast is served (Sb-€90, Db-€180, 5 percent discount if you pay cash, elevator, air-con, guest computer, Wi-Fi, down the stairs directly in front of Vatican Museum, Via Tunisi 8, Metro: Ottaviano, tel. 06-3972-3941, www.alimandi.it, alimandi@tin.it).
$$$ Hotel Gerber, set in a quiet residential area, is family-run with 27 thoughtfully decorated rooms—some chic and modern, others polished and businesslike (Sb-€140, Db-€180, Tb-€200, Qb-€220, 10 percent high-season discount and 15 percent low-season discount off these prices with this book in 2015 when you book direct, air-con, elevator, Wi-Fi, small leafy terrace; from Lepanto Metro station, go one block down Via M. Colonna and turn right to Via degli Scipioni 241; tel. 06-321-6485, www.hotelgerber.it, info@hotelgerber.it; Peter, Simonetta, and friendly dog Kira).
$$$ Hotel dei Consoli, with 26 rooms tucked down a side street near Piazza del Risorgimento, feels stately and old-fashioned (Db-€180, air-con, elevator, Wi-Fi, Via Varrone 2D, tel. 06-6889-2972, www.hoteldeiconsoli.com, info@hoteldeiconsoli.com).
$$$ Hearth Hotel, a block from the Vatican wall, has 20 small, modern, efficient, and characterless rooms (Db-€180, air-con, elevator, Wi-Fi, Via Santamaura 2, tel. 06-3903-8383, www.hearthhotel.com, info@hearthhotel.com).
$$$ Excel Rome St. Peter is all glassy modernity, with 24 rooms and an impersonal feel (Db-€180, air-con, elevator, Wi-Fi, Via Catone 34, tel. 06-3973-5082, www.excelstpeter.it, booking@excelstpeter.it).
$$ Casa Valdese is an efficient, well-managed, church-run hotel that’s popular with Germans. Its 33 big, quiet rooms feel older and a bit institutional, with the bonus of two breezy, communal roof terraces with incredible views (two external Sb-€63, Sb-€100, Db-€133, Tb-€183, Qb-€213, discounts for 3-night stays, air-con, elevator, guest computer, Wi-Fi; from Lepanto Metro station, go one block down Via M. Colonna, turn left on Via degli Scipioni, then continue for a block to the intersection with Via Alessandro Farnese 18; tel. 06-321-5362, www.casavaldeseroma.it, reception@casavaldeseroma.it, Matteo).
$ Casa per Ferie Santa Maria alle Fornaci is simple and efficient, housing pilgrims and secular tourists just a short walk south of the Vatican in a dull, high-rise residential zone. Its 54 identical, stark, utilitarian rooms are mostly twin-bedded. Reserve at least three months in advance (Sb-€70, Db-€100, Tb-€135, air-con, elevator, guest computer, Wi-Fi; take bus #64 from Termini train station to San Pietro train station, then walk 100 yards north along Via della Stazione di San Pietro to Piazza Santa Maria alle Fornaci 27; or from the airport, take the train to Trastevere Station, then transfer to San Pietro Station; tel. 06-3936-7632, www.trinitaridematha.it, cffornaci@tin.it, Carmine).
I’ve listed a number of restaurants I enjoy. While many are in quaint and therefore pricey and touristy areas (Trastevere and the Pantheon neighborhood, including Piazza Navona and Campo de’ Fiori), others are tucked away just off the tourist crush.
I’m impressed by how small the price difference can be between a mediocre Roman restaurant and a fine one. You can pay about 20 percent more for double the quality. If I had $100 for three meals in Rome, I’d spend $50 for one and $25 each for the other two, rather than $33 on all three. For splurge meals, I’d consider Gabriello, Fortunato, and Taverna Trilussa (in that order).
Rome’s fabled nightspots (most notably Piazza Navona, near the Pantheon, and Campo de’ Fiori) are lined with the outdoor tables of touristy restaurants with enticing menus and formal-vested waiters. The atmosphere is super-romantic: I, too, like the idea of dining under floodlit monuments, amid a constantly flowing parade of people. But you’ll likely be surrounded by tourists, and noisy English-speakers can kill the ambience of the spot...leaving you with just a forgettable and overpriced meal. Restaurants in these areas are notorious for surprise charges, forgettable food, microwaved ravioli, and bad service.
I enjoy the view by savoring just a drink or dessert on a famous square, but I dine with locals on nearby low-rent streets, where the proprietor needs to serve a good-value meal and nurture a local following to stay in business. If you’re set on eating—or just drinking and snacking—on a famous piazza, you don’t need a guidebook listing to choose a spot; enjoy the ritual of slowly circling the square, observing both the food and the people eating it, and sit where the view and menu appeal to you. (And pizza is probably your best value and least risky bet.)
(See “Trastevere” map, here.)
Colorful Trastevere is now pretty touristy. Still, Romans join the tourists to eat on the rustic side of the Tiber River. Start at the central square, Piazza di Santa Maria. This is where the tourists dine, while others wander the back streets in search of mom-and-pop places with barely a menu. My recommendations are within a few minutes’ walk of each other (between Piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere and Ponte Sisto; see map on here).
Taverna Trilussa is your best bet for dining well in Trastevere. Brothers Massimo and Maurizio offer quality at high prices, but without pretense. With a proud 100-year-old tradition, this place has the right mix of style and informality. The service is fun-loving (they’re happy to let you split plates into smaller portions to enjoy a family-style meal), yet professional. The menu celebrates local classics and seasonal specials, and comes with a big wine selection. The spacious dining hall is strewn with eclectic Roman souvenirs. For those who’d rather eat outdoors, Trilussa has an actual terrace rather than just tables jumbled together on the sidewalk (€15 pastas, €20-28 secondi, Mon-Sat from 19:30 for dinner, closed Sun, reservations very smart, Via del Politeama 23, tel. 06-581-8918, www.tavernatrilussa.it).
La Gensola is one of the best places in town to splurge on seafood (though they also have Roman classics on the menu). The interior, which feels like a rustic yet sophisticated living room, is pleasantly homey. Warmly and unpretentiously run by Irene and Claudio, this place is justifiably popular—reserve ahead for dinner (€14-20 seafood pastas, €15-25 secondi, daily 12:00-15:00 & 19:30-24:00, Piazza della Gensola 15, tel. 06-581-6312, www.osterialagensola.it).
Trattoria da Lucia lets you enjoy simple, traditional food at a good price. It’s your basic old-school, Trastevere dining experience, and has been family-run since World War II. You’ll meet four generations of the family, including Giuliano and Renato, their uncle Ennio, and Ennio’s mom—pictured on the menu in the 1950s. The family specialty is spaghetti alla Gricia, with pancetta (€9-10 pastas, €11-14 secondi, Tue-Sun 12:30-15:30 & 19:30-24:00, closed Mon and several weeks in Aug, cash only, evocative outdoor or comfy indoor seating—but avoid back room, just off Via del Mattonato at Vicolo del Mattonato 2, tel. 06-580-3601).
Trattoria da Olindo takes homey to extremes. You really feel like you dropped in on a family that cooks for the neighborhood to supplement their income (€8 pastas, €10 secondi, Mon-Sat dinner served 19:30-22:30, closed Sun—also closed Mon off-season, cash only, indoor and funky outdoor seating, on the corner of Vicolo della Scala and Via del Mattonato at #8, tel. 06-581-8835).
Osteria Ponte Sisto, small and Mediterranean, specializes in traditional Roman cuisine, but has frequent Neapolitan specials as well. Just outside the tourist zone, it caters mostly to Romans and offers beautiful desserts and a fine value. Reservations for dinner are smart (€8-12 pastas, €12-18 secondi, March-Oct Thu-Tue 12:30-23:30, closes between lunch and dinner off-season, closed Wed, Via Ponte Sisto 80, tel. 06-588-3411, www.osteriapontesisto.com, Oliviero). If you’re coming from the city center, cross Ponte Sisto (pedestrian bridge), and continue across the little square (Piazza Trilussa). It’s on the right.
Pizzeria “Ai Marmi” is a bright and noisy festival of pizza, where the oven and pizza-assembly line are surrounded by marble-slab tables (hence the nickname “the Morgue”). It’s a classic Roman scene, whether you enjoy the chaos inside or sit at a sidewalk table, with famously good €8 Roman-style pizza (thin and crispy) and very tight seating. Expect a long line between 20:00 and 22:00 (Thu-Tue 18:30-24:00, closed Wed, cash only, tram #8 from Piazza Venezia to first stop over bridge, just beyond Piazza Sonnino at Viale di Trastevere 53, tel. 06-580-0919).
Pizzeria Dar Poeta, tucked in a back alley and a hit with local students, cranks out less traditional, thick-crust, wood-fired pizza—some of the best I’ve had in Rome. It’s run by three friends—Marco, Paolo, and another Marco—who welcome you into the informal restaurant beneath exposed brick arches. If you’re in a spicy mood, order lingua di fuoco (tongue of fire). If you’re extra hungry, pay an extra euro for pizza alto (even thicker crust). Choose between their classic, cramped interior and lively tables outside on the cobblestones. Their chocolate dessert calzone is a favorite (€5-10 pizza and salads, daily 12:00-24:00, Vicolo del Bologna 45, tel. 06-588-0516).
Cantina Paradiso Wine and Cocktail Bar, a block over Viale di Trastevere from the touristy action, has a funky romantic charm. During happy hour (18:00-21:00), the €8 drinks come with a well-made little buffet that can turn into a cheap, light dinner (€8 pastas, daily 18:00-24:00, Via San Francesco a Ripa 73, tel. 06-589-9799, Weronika).
Gelato: Gelateria alla Checco er Carettiere, run by and next door to the famous restaurant of the same name, is many locals’ favorite spot for gelato in Trastevere (Via Benedetta 7). Fatamorgana offers innovative flavors of organic gelato (Via Roma Libera 11).
The Jewish Ghetto sits just across the river from Trastevere (see map on here).
Sora Margherita, hiding on a cluttered square, has been a rustic neighborhood favorite since 1927. Amid a picturesque commotion, families chow down on old-time Roman and Jewish dishes. It’s technically not a real restaurant (it avoids red tape by officially registering itself an associazione culturale)—you can even sign a card to join the “cultural association” (don’t worry; membership has no obligations except that you enjoy your meal). The menu’s crude term for the fettuccini gives you some idea of the mood of this place: nazzica culo (“shaky ass”—what happens while it’s made). Reservations are almost always necessary (€11-12 pastas, €13-15 secondi; Sept-May daily 12:30-15:00, also dinner Mon and Wed-Sat 20:00-23:30—no dinner Tue or Sun; June-mid-Aug Mon-Fri 12:30-15:00 & 20:00-23:30, closed Sat-Sun; closed second half of Aug; just south of Via del Portico d’Ottavia at Piazza delle Cinque Scole 30—look for the red curtain, tel. 06-687-4216).
A Fast Lunch in the Ghetto: The ghetto’s main drag, Via del Portico d’Ottavia, is an ideal place for a quick lunch. Several kosher delis and other food stands line the broad street—particularly at the far (west) end. Walk the full length of the street before choosing. In addition to kosher hot dogs, you’ll find falafel and carciofi alla giudia—”Jewish-style” artichokes that are deep-fried. Near the end of this drag—just after the gourmet cheese shop—is Fonzie, a good “kosher burger house” (Santa Maria del Pianto 13).
For the restaurants in this central area, I’ve listed them based on which landmark they’re closest to: Campo de’ Fiori, Piazza Navona, the Trevi Fountain, or the Pantheon itself.
(See “Restaurants in the Pantheon Neighborhood” map, here.)
By day, Campo de’ Fiori hosts one of the few markets in downtown Rome, selling fruit and veggies (and an increasing number of tourist knickknacks; Mon-Sat closes around 13:30, closed Sun). Combined with a sandwich and a sweet from the Forno (bakery) in the west corner of the square (behind the fountain), you can assemble a nice picnic.
By night, while it is touristy, Campo de’ Fiori offers a sublimely romantic setting. And, since it’s so close to the heart of the Roman people, it remains popular with locals, even though its restaurants offer greater atmosphere than food value. The square is lined with popular and interesting bars, pizzerias, and small restaurants—all great for people-watching over a glass of wine. Later at night it’s taken over by a younger clubbing crowd.
Ristorante ar Galletto is nearby, on the more elegant and peaceful Piazza Farnese. Angelo entertains the upscale Roman clientele enjoying the magical outdoor seating or trendy interior. Regrettably, service can be brusque, you need to double-check the bill, and single diners aren’t treated very well. Still, if you’re in no hurry and ready to savor my favorite al fresco setting in Rome (while humoring the waiters), this can be a good bet (€10-13 pastas, €19-22 secondi, daily 12:15-15:00 & 19:30-23:00, reservations smart for outdoor seating, Piazza Farnese 104, tel. 06-686-1714, www.ristoranteargallettoroma.com).
Vineria Salumeria Roscioli is an elegant enoteca that’s a hit with local foodies, so reservations are a must. While it’s just a salami toss away from touristy Campo de’ Fiori, you’ll dine with classy locals, and feel like you’re sitting in a romantic (and expensive) deli after hours. They have a good selection of fine cheeses, meats, local dishes, and top-end wines by the glass (€12-16 pastas, €18-25 secondi, Mon-Sat 12:30-16:00 & 19:00-24:00, closed Sun, 3 blocks east of Campo de’ Fiori at Via dei Giubbonari 21, tel. 06-687-5287, www.salumeriaroscioli.com). Their nearby Forno Roscioli is a favorite for a quick slice of pizza or pastry to go (Mon-Sat 6:00-20:00, closed Sun, Via dei Chiavari 34, tel. 06-686-4045).
Trattoria der Pallaro, an eccentric and well-worn eatery that has no menu, has a slogan: “Here, you’ll eat what we want to feed you.” Paola Fazi—with a towel wrapped around her head turban-style—and her gang dish up a five-course meal of homey Roman food. You have three menu choices: €25 for the works; €20 for appetizers, secondi, and dessert; or €16 for appetizers and pasta. Any option is filling, includes wine and coffee, and is capped with a thimble of mandarin juice. While the service can be odd and the food is rustic, the experience is fun (daily 12:00-16:00 & 19:00-24:00, reserve if dining after 20:00, cash only, indoor/outdoor seating on quiet square, a block south of Corso Vittorio Emanuele, down Largo del Chiavari to Largo del Pallaro 15, tel. 06-6880-1488).
Filetti di Baccalà is a cheap and basic Roman classic, where nostalgic regulars cram in at wooden tables and savor their old-school favorites—fried cod finger-food fillets (€5 each) and raw, slightly bitter puntarelle greens (slathered with anchovy sauce, available in spring and winter). Study what others are eating, and order from your grease-stained server by pointing at what you want. Sit in the fluorescently lit interior or try to grab a seat out on the little square, a quiet haven a block east of Campo de’ Fiori (Mon-Sat 17:00-23:00, closed Sun, cash only, Largo dei Librari 88, tel. 06-686-4018). If you’re not into greasy spoons, avoid this place.
Open Baladin is a busy, modern pub featuring a few dozen Italian craft beers on tap and menu of burgers, salads, and freshly cooked potato chips. As this is a relatively new concept in Italy, prices are somewhat high—and the food can be hit or miss—but it’s a nice break if you’re parched and ready for pub grub (€7-12 sandwiches and plates, daily 12:00-24:00, Via degli Specchi 5, tel. 06-683-8989).
(See “Restaurants in the Pantheon Neighborhood” map, here.)
Piazza Navona is the quintessential setting for dining on a Roman square. Whether you eat here or not, you’ll want to stroll the piazza before or after your evening meal. This is where many people fall in love with Rome. The tangled streets just to the west are lined with popular eateries of many stripes.
Ciccia Bomba (a.k.a. Bomba Ciccia) is a traditional and touristy trattoria where Gianpaolo, Gianluca, and their crew serve up tasty homemade pasta, wood-fired pizza, and other Roman specialties (consider their daily-special sheet)—all at a good price. While downstairs you can sit at a table on ancient pavement next to your own column, I like the ambience on the main level. Reserve at least a week in advance for their 45-minute pizza-making “lesson” that costs €25 (€7-10 pastas and pizzas, €10-18 secondi, daily 7:00-24:00, Via del Governo Vecchio 76, a block west of Piazza Navona, just north of Piazza Pasquino, tel. 06-6880-2108).
Cul de Sac, a corridor-wide trattoria lined with wine bottles, is packed with an enthusiastic crowd enjoying a wide-ranging menu, from pasta to homemade pâté. They have fun tasting-plates of salumi and cheese, more than a thousand different wines, and fine outdoor seating. It’s small, and they don’t take reservations—come early to avoid a wait (€9-10 pastas, €8-11 secondi, daily 12:00-24:00, a block off Piazza Navona on Piazza Pasquino, tel. 06-6880-1094).
Baguetteria del Fico is a very cramped, trendy microbrew pub (with 150 different craft beers lining the walls) and a baguette-sandwich counter. With a sophisticated wine-bar ambience and a dedication to quality ingredients, this place is handy for a quick, light, and tasty lunch just west of Piazza Navona. Think of it as a notch above the interchangeable paninoteche scattered around the neighborhood (€5-7 sandwiches, well-described English menu, daily 10:00-late, Via della Fossa 12, tel. 06-9604-5541).
Ristorante Pizzeria “da Francesco,” bustling and authentic, has a 50-year-old tradition, a hardworking young waitstaff, great indoor seating, and classic outdoor seating on a cluttered little square that makes you want to break out a sketchpad. Their blackboard explains the daily specials (€9-11 pizzas and pastas, €15-20 secondi, daily 12:00-15:30 & 19:00-24:00, 3 blocks west of Piazza Navona at Piazza del Fico 29, tel. 06-686-4009).
Pizzeria da Baffetto, buried deep in the old quarter behind Piazza Navona, is a Roman favorite, offering tasty pizza and surly service. Its tables are tightly arranged amid the mishmash of photos and sketches littering the walls. The pizza-assembly kitchen keeps things energetic, and the pizza oven keeps the main room warm (you can opt for a table on the cobbled street). Come early or late, or be prepared to wait (€6-12 pizzas, daily from 18:30, cash only; order “P,” “M,” or “D”—small, medium, or large; west of Piazza Navona on the corner of Via Sora at Via del Governo Vecchio 114, tel. 06-686-1617).
Chiostro del Bramante offers drinks and light lunches in a unique setting—overlooking the tranquil open-air chiostro (cloister) of the San Bramante church, just west of Piazza Navona. Find the entrance just to the left of the church entrance, climb upstairs, order at the counter, and choose a stony bench—so close to all the tourists, yet so far away. Or sit in the mod lounge, with a window view of the church interior and its original Raphael fresco. Though food prices are high and portions small, the setting is unique and relaxing (€8-12 plates, Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-21:00, lunch served until 15:00—only drinks after that, Arco della Pace 5, tel. 06-6880-9035).
No.Au (as in “Know-How”) is a hip bar with light food in the heart of old Rome. The lively, cluttered interior breeds conviviality, and patrons enjoy organic craft beers on tap, along with wine and other drinks. Red tape prevents staff from operating a real kitchen (“no fire”), so they prepare creative and pricey dishes dalla cucina di MacGyver (“from MacGyver’s kitchen”). Come here not for a filling, traditional meal, but for a chance to sample a local beer, make some Roman friends, and nibble jury-rigged cuisine in a fresh locale tucked among all the touristy trattorias (€6-12 small plates, Tue-Fri 18:00-late, Sat-Sun 12:00-late, closed Mon, Piazza di Montevecchio 16A, tel. 06-4565-2770).
L’Insalata Ricca is a popular local chain that specializes in healthy, filling €6-9 salads and less-healthy pastas and main courses (daily 12:00-24:00). They have a handy branch on Piazza Pasquino (next to the recommended Cul de Sac, tel. 06-6830-7881) and a more spacious and enjoyable location a few blocks away, on a bigger square next to busy Corso Vittorio Emanuele (near Campo de’ Fiori at Largo dei Chiavari 85, tel. 06-6880-3656).
(See “Restaurants in the Pantheon Neighborhood” map, here.)
The streets surrounding the Trevi Fountain are littered with mediocre restaurants catering exclusively to tourists—try one of these instead.
Hostaria Romana is a busy bistro with a hustling and fun-loving gang of waiters. The upstairs is a tight, tidy, glassed-in terrace, while the cellar has noisy walls graffitied by happy eaters. As its menu specializes in traditional Roman dishes, it’s a good place to try saltimbocca alla romana or bucatini all’amatriciana (see “Roman Cuisine,” earlier in this section). Their €12 antipasti della casa plate, with a variety of vegetables and cheeses, makes a hearty start to your meal (€11 pastas, €15 secondi, Mon-Sat 12:30-15:00 & 19:15-23:00, closed Sun and Aug, reservations smart, a block up the lane just past the entrance to the big tunnel near the Trevi Fountain, corner of Via Rasella and Via del Boccaccio—see map on here, tel. 06-474-5284, www.hostariaromana.it).
L’Antica Birreria Peroni is Rome’s answer to a German beer hall. Serving hearty mugs of the local Peroni beer and lots of just plain fun beer-hall food and Italian classics, the place is a hit with Romans for a cheap night out (€7 pastas, €4-12 secondi, Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00, closed Sun, midway between Trevi Fountain and Capitoline Hill, a block off Via del Corso at Via di San Marcello 19, tel. 06-679-5310).
Ristorante Pizzeria Sacro e Profano fills an old church with spicy southern Italian (Calabrian) cuisine and satisfied tourists. Run with enthusiasm, this is just far enough away from the Trevi mobs. Their pizza oven is wood-fired, and their hearty €15 golosità calabresi appetizer plate is a filling montage of Calabrian taste treats (€7-9 pizzas, €10-12 pastas, €15-18 secondi, Tue-Sun 12:00-15:00 & 18:00-23:00, closed Mon, a block off Via del Tritone and Via della Panetteria at Via dei Maroniti 29, tel. 06-679-1836).
(See “Restaurants in the Pantheon Neighborhood” map, here.)
Eating on the square facing the Pantheon is a temptation, and I’d consider it just to relax and enjoy the Roman scene. But if you walk a block or two away, you’ll get less view and better value. Here are some suggestions.
Ristorante da Fortunato is an Italian classic, with fresh flowers on the tables and white-coated, black-tie career waiters politely serving good meat and fish to politicians, foreign dignitaries, and tourists with good taste. Don’t leave without perusing the photos of their famous visitors—everyone from former Iraqi Foreign Minister Tariq Aziz to Bill Clinton seems to have eaten here. All are pictured with the boss, Fortunato, who started this restaurant in 1975 and was a master of simple edible elegance. (His son Jason now runs the show.) The outdoor seating is fine for watching the river of Roman street life flow by, but the real atmosphere is inside. For a dressy night out, this is a reliable and surprisingly reasonable choice—but be sure to reserve ahead (plan to spend €45 per person, daily 12:30-15:30 & 19:30-23:30, a block in front of the Pantheon at Via del Pantheon 55, tel. 06-679-2788, www.ristorantefortunato.it).
Enoteca Corsi is a wine shop that grew into a thriving lunch-only restaurant. The Paiella family serves straightforward, traditional cuisine to an appreciative crowd of office workers. Check the board for daily specials (gnocchi on Thursday, fish on Friday, and so on). Friendly Giuliana, Claudia, Sara, and Manuela welcome eaters to step into their wine shop and pick out a bottle. For the cheap takeaway price, plus €4-8 (depending on the wine), they’ll uncork it at your table. With €9 pastas, €13 main dishes, and fine wine at a third of the price you’d pay in normal restaurants, this can be a good value. And guests with this book finish their meal with a free glass of homemade limoncello (Mon-Sat 12:00-15:30, closed Sun, no reservations possible, a block toward the Pantheon from the Gesù Church at Via del Gesù 87, tel. 06-679-0821).
Trattoria dal Cavalier Gino, tucked away on a tiny street behind the Parliament, has been a favorite since 1963. Photos on the wall recall the days when it was the haunt of big-time politicians. Grandpa Gino shuffles around grating the parmesan cheese while his English-speaking children Carla and Fabrizio serve up traditional Roman favorites and make sure things run smoothly. Reserve ahead, even for lunch, as you’ll be packed in with savvy locals (€8-12 pastas, €11-15 secondi, cash only, Mon-Sat 13:00-14:45 & 20:00-22:30, closed Sun, behind Piazza del Parlamento and just off Via di Campo Marzio at Vicolo Rosini 4, tel. 06-687-3434).
Ristorante la Campana is a classic—an authentic slice of Rome with a local following. Claiming a history dating to 1518, it boasts a clientele of mostly well-dressed Romans. This place feels unchanged over the years...probably because it doesn’t have to. It serves typical Roman dishes and daily specials, plus it has a good self-service antipasti buffet (€10-12 pastas, €11-18 secondi, Tue-Sun 12:30-15:00 & 19:30-23:00, closed Mon, inside seating only, reserve for dinner, just off Via della Scrofa and Piazza Nicosia at Vicolo della Campana 18, tel. 06-687-5273, www.ristorantelacampana.com).
Miscellanea is run by much-loved Mikki, who’s on a mission to keep foreign students well-fed. Welcoming travelers as well as locals, he offers hearty €4 sandwiches and a long list of €7 salads, along with pasta and other staples. This is a great value for a cheap and hearty dinner featuring typical rustic Roman cuisine. Mikki (and his son Romeo) often tosses in a fun little extra, including—if you have this book on the table—a free glass of Mikki’s “sexy wine” (from fragoline—strawberry-flavored grapes). While basic, it’s convenient (€7-8 pastas, €10-15 secondi, daily 11:00-24:00, indoor/outdoor seating, facing the rear of the Pantheon at Via della Palombella 34, tel. 06-6813-5318).
(See “Restaurants in the Pantheon Neighborhood” map, here.)
It’s fun to munch a picnic with a view of the Pantheon. (Remember to be discreet.) Here are some options.
Antica Salumeria is an old-time alimentari (grocery store) on the Pantheon square. While they hustle most tourists into premade €5 sandwiches, you can make your own picnic. Find your way to the back to buy artichokes, mixed olives, bread, cheese, and meat (daily 8:00-21:00, mobile 334-340-9014).
Frullati Pascucci, a hole-in-the-wall convenient for takeaway, has been making refreshing fruit frullati and frappés (like smoothies and shakes) for more than 75 years. Add a sandwich or fruit salad to make a healthy light meal (Mon-Sat 6:00-23:00, closed Sun, north of Largo Argentina at Via di Torre Argentina 20, tel. 06-686-4816).
Supermarkets near the Pantheon: Food is relatively cheap at Italian supermarkets. Super Market Carrefour Express is a convenient place for groceries a block from the Gesù Church (Mon-Sat 8:00-20:30, Sun 9:00-19:30, 50 yards off Via del Plebiscito at Via del Gesù 59). Nearby, just across the busy road, is a Despar (Mon-Sat 8:00-21:00, Sun 9:00-21:00, Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 42). Another Despar is half a block from the Pantheon toward Piazza Navona (daily 8:30-22:00, Via Giustiniani 18).
(See “Restaurants in the Pantheon Neighborhood” map, here.)
Several fine gelaterie are within a five-minute walk of the Pantheon.
Giolitti is Rome’s most famous and venerable ice-cream joint (although few would say it has the best gelato). Takeaway prices are reasonable, and it has elegant Old World seating (just off Piazza Colonna and Piazza Montecitorio at Via Uffici del Vicario 40, tel. 06-699-1243).
Crèmeria Monteforte is known for its traditional gelato and super-creamy sorbets (cremolati). The fruit flavors are especially refreshing—think gourmet slushies (closed Mon and Dec-Jan, faces the west side of the Pantheon at Via della Rotonda 22, tel. 06-686-7720).
San Crispino serves small portions of particularly tasty gourmet gelato. Because of their commitment to natural ingredients, the colors are muted; gelato purists consider bright colors a sign of unnatural chemicals, used to attract children (a block in front of the Pantheon on Piazza della Maddalena, tel. 06-6889-1310).
Gelateria Vice is a relative newcomer but might be the best of all. Using top-quality ingredients in innovative ways, the flavors change with the seasons (around the northwest corner of Largo Argentina at Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 96, tel. 06-8117-3023).
To locate these restaurants, see the “Dolce Vita Stroll” map on here.
Ristorante il Gabriello is inviting and small—modern under medieval arches—and provides a peaceful and local-feeling respite from all the top-end fashion shops in the area. Claudio serves with charisma, while his brother Gabriello cooks creative Roman cuisine using fresh, organic products from his wife’s farm. Italians normally just trust their waiter and say, “Bring it on.” Tourists are understandably more cautious, but you can be trusting here. Simply close your eyes and point to anything on the menu. Or invest €45 in “Claudio’s Extravaganza” (not including wine). Specify whether you’d prefer fish, meat, or both. (Romans think raw shellfish is the ultimate in fine dining. If you differ, make that clear.) When finished, I stand up, hold my belly, and say, “Ahhh, la vita è bella.” While you’re likely to dine surrounded by my readers here (especially if eating before 21:00), the atmosphere is fun and convivial (€11-18 pastas, €14-20 secondi, dinner only, Mon-Sat 19:00-23:00, closed Sun, reservations smart, air-con, dress respectfully—no shorts, 3 blocks from Spanish Steps at Via Vittoria 51, tel. 06-6994-0810, www.ilgabriello.it).
Antica Enoteca, an upbeat, atmospheric 200-plus-year-old enoteca, has around 60 Italian-only wines by the glass (€6-10, listed on a big blackboard) and a full menu of eating options, from €6-12 salads to a €14 antipasti plate of veggies, salumi, and cheese. Very crowded on summer evenings, it comes with wonderful ambience both inside and out; its outside tables are set on a quiet cobbled street (€10-12 pastas, €12-18 secondi, daily 11:00-24:00, best to reserve for outdoor seating, Via della Croce 76b, tel. 06-679-0896, www.anticaenoteca.com).
Palatium Enoteca Regionale is a crisp, modern restaurant funded by the region of Lazio (home to Rome) to show off its finest agricultural fare. Surrounded by locals, you’ll enjoy generous, shareable plates of cheeses and salumi (€12-15), a limited menu of pasta and meat (€11-13 pastas, €12-16 secondi), and a huge selection of local wine (Mon-Sat 12:30-15:30 & 19:30-22:30, closed Sun and one week in Aug, 5 blocks in front of the Spanish Steps at Via Frattina 94, tel. 06-6920-2132).
Gusto Wine Bar is a convenient choice for a glass of wine or a light meal. Popular with trendy locals, it gives a glimpse of today’s Roman scene, though some of the decor has a 1930s ambience. While much of the food at their other nearby venues is pricey (and mediocre), the weekday €11 lunch buffet (12:30-15:30) is a good value. During happy hour (18:00-21:00) you get a light, self-service meal with your drink for €10-12 (daily 11:00-late, kitchen closes at 24:00; just behind the Ara Pacis at Via della Frezza 23, tel. 06-322-6273). Their osteria, next door, has a similar atmosphere (€12 pastas, €15-22 secondi).
Caffè Ciampini is delightfully set on one of my favorite traffic-free squares in the center of town. The food is quite pricey and won’t win any awards—and you pay for the location—so I’d only stop here to sit outside and people-watch. This is a good place to make the scene with trendy and professional Romans. The cocktails come with a little tray of finger sandwiches and nuts; for some it’s a light and inexpensive meal (€10-16 pizzas, salads, pastas, sandwiches; Mon-Fri 7:30-20:30, Sat 7:30-24:00, closed Sun, Piazza San Lorenzo in Lucina 29, tel. 06-687-6606, www.ciampini.com).
Eating Light on the Via della Croce: Two blocks north of the Spanish Steps, the Via della Croce offers a few simple options for a light meal or snack. As you walk down this street from Via del Corso, you’ll reach the following places (listed in order). Several takeout shops for pizza and sandwiches cluster near the start of this street, including Grano, Frutta e Farina (#49A). The Despar minisupermarket at #48 fits the bill for budget picnickers, or you can try a sandwich-on-request from the intriguing Foccaci shop (at #43, end of first block), with a long, enticing counter of meats and cheeses. Farther down is the more formal, sit-down Antica Enoteca (#76b, described earlier). Tucked away in a quiet, vine-covered courtyard, Trattoria Otello alla Concordia (#81) is a decent choice for traditional food served in a slightly faded old-time atmosphere (€11-13 pastas, €13-16 secondi, Mon-Sat 12:30-15:00 & 19:30-23:00, Sun 12:30-15:00 only, tel. 06-679-1178). Then comes another classic alimentari (grocery), Salsamenteria F.lli Fabi at #28. Venchi (#25-26) has chocolate in every form—good for their rich gelato and edible souvenirs. Pompi (#82), the self-proclaimed “kingdom of tiramisu,” features several flavors (classic, strawberry, pistachio) in €4 portions. And finally, Pastificio (#8) is a pasta shop that serves up two types of fresh pasta each day at 13:00. There are only a few stools so you might be eating in the street (off a plastic plate), but for €4 you also get water and a “drop of wine for the most deserving”—be nice and say “per favore” (daily 13:00-16:00 or when the pasta is gone).
Gelato: For organic gelato with some unusual flavors, head a few blocks north of Via della Croce to Fatamorgana (Via Laurina 10—see map on here).
Within a block of the Colosseum and Forum, you’ll find convenient eateries catering to weary sightseers, offering neither memorable food nor good value. To get your money’s worth, stick with one of my recommendations or head to the Monti neighborhood. Note that some of these are ideal for lunch, while others are dinner-only—worth considering after a long day of sightseeing, or as an excuse to stroll the floodlit ruins after dark. For locations, see the map on here.
(See “Hotels & Restaurants near Ancient Rome” map, here.)
Tucked behind Trajan’s Forum, in the tight and cobbled lanes between Via Nazionale and Via Cavour, is the characteristic Monti neighborhood. It’s just a few steps farther from the ancient sites than the battery of forgettable touristy restaurants, but that extra effort opens up a world of inexpensive and characteristic dining experiences. From the Forum, head up Via Cavour and then left on Via dei Serpenti; the action centers on Piazza della Madonna dei Monti and unfolds along Via dei Serpenti, Via del Boschetto, and Via Leonina/Urbana. For more on this area, see here.
L’Asino d’Oro (“The Golden Donkey”) is a top choice for foodies in this neighborhood (so reserve ahead). Chef Lucio Sforza, who previously ran restaurants in Orvieto, serves Umbrian cuisine with a creative twist—and mingles savory and sweet flavors to create a memorable meal. The service is crisp, the pasta is homemade, and the simple, modern space is filled with savvy diners (€11-13 pastas, €14-17 main dishes, €13 fixed-price lunch is a great value, Tue-Sat 12:30-15:00 & 19:30-23:00, closed Sun-Mon, some delightful outdoor seating, Via del Boschetto 73, tel. 06-4891-3832).
La Taverna dei Monti is frequented by locals and savvy tourists who want great, old-fashioned Roman cooking and Italian standards. Perhaps the dressiest of my Monti recommendations, it has good seating inside and out. Baked lamb is a favorite (dinner only, €8 pastas, €12-18 main dishes, just off of Via Nazionale at Via del Boschetto 41, tel. 06-481-7724).
La Carbonara has been serving locals since 1906 with food that makes up for the lack of smiles. Under walls scribbled with notes from happy diners, you’ll enjoy tasty dishes and great prices (€7-9 pastas, €9-15 secondi, Mon-Sat 12:30-14:30 & 19:00-23:00, closed Sun, reserve for dinner, Via Panisperna 214, tel. 06 482 5176, www.lacarbonara.it).
Enoteca Cavour 313 is a wine bar with a mission: to offer good wine and food with an old-fashioned commitment to value and friendly service. Its slightly unconventional menu, ranging from couscous and salads to high-quality affettati (cold cuts) and cheese, makes a nice alternative to the usual pasta/pizza choices. You’ll be served with a mellow ambience under lofts of wine bottles (€9-14 plates, daily 12:30-14:45 & 18:30-24:00, 100 yards off Via dei Fori Imperiali at Via Cavour 313, tel. 06-678-5496).
Taverna Romana is small and simple—with an open kitchen and hams and garlic hanging from the ceiling. Their cacio e pepe (cheese and pepper pasta) is the hands-down favorite at this family-run eatery. It’s popular so arrive early or call to reserve (€9-10 pastas, €9-14 secondi, Mon-Sat 12:30-14:45 & 19:00-23:00, closed Sun, Via Madonna dei Monti 79, tel. 06-474-5325).
La Vacca M’Briaca (The Drunk Cow) has a casual and fun vibe with its open kitchen, indoor and outdoor tables, and a good mix of hearty Roman and Italian fare. The bucatini all’amatriciana and saltimbocca are favorites. Avoid the back room if possible (daily, Via Urbana 29, tel. 06-4890-7118).
La Cicala e La Formica has its own little nook on Via Leonina. The terrace dining is good for people-watching, while the homey interior is livelier. The cuisine is more Italian than Roman, and the €10 two-course lunch special—offered weekdays only—is a good value (€10 pastas, €10 secondi, daily 12:00-15:30 & 19:00-23:00, Via Leonina 17, tel. 06-481-7490).
Taverna dei Fori Imperiali is a favorite with Monti locals and understandably popular with tourists. You’ll enjoy typical Roman cuisine served in a snug interior that bustles with energy (€9 antipasti, €9-12 pastas, €12-16 secondi, Wed-Mon 12:30-15:00 & 19:30-23:00, closed Tue, Via della Madonna dei Monti 9, reserve for dinner, tel. 06-679-8643, www.latavernadeiforiimperiali.com).
Trattoria da Valentino is a classic time-warp hiding behind its historic (and therefore protected) Birra Peroni signs. Serving simple plates, pastas, and salads—but no secondi—to a smart local clientele, it’s a hit with government ministry workers (closed Sun, Via del Boschetto 37, tel. 06-488-0643).
Closer to Piazza Venezia and Trajan’s Column: Enoteca Nel Cuore di Roma, while not strictly in Monti, is nearby and even more convenient to Piazza Venezia and Capitoline Hill. Overlooking Trajan’s Column, this modern little place has a cool, peaceful, and well-lit dining room and a few outside tables. It celebrates Roman cuisine with fresh local produce; the prices are quite high (€12-14 pastas, €15-22 secondi), but the daily €13 specials including wine are a good value (Tue-Sat 11:00-16:00 & 18:00-23:30, Sun-Mon 11:00-17:00, Foro Traiano 82, tel. 06-6994-0273).
(See “Hotels & Restaurants near Ancient Rome” map, here.)
The streets of Monti are crowded with fun and creative places offering inexpensive quality snacks and light meals to eat on tiny informal tables or to take away. Here are my favorites:
Ai Tre Scalini feels like the youthful meeting point of the entire community. The cobbles out in front of this bar are jammed with local hipsters enjoying drinks al fresco (it’s tough to get a seat unless you arrive early). While the focus here is on drinking and socializing more than dining, they do have a chalkboard menu of €5-10 plates (daily 12:30-24:00, Via Panisperna 251, tel. 06-4890-7495).
Pizzeria Chicco di Grano is a big sloppy pizzeria with a big outdoor terrace serving tasty, wood-fired pizzas. It has plenty of red-and-white-checkered tables and is ideal for families, (€2-4 bruschetta with a wide array of toppings, €8-11 pizzas, daily 12:00-24:00, Via degli Zingari 6 at the corner of Via del Boschetto, tel. 06-4782-5033).
Fafiuché Vineria is an intimate yet vibrant family-run wine bar with a fun-loving vibe and no pretense. They serve a broad selection of wines and beers inside or at tables on the cobblestones outside. Each evening from 18:30 to 21:00 Andrea and Mario offer a popular aperitivo special: €8 covers a glass of wine and one trip to the buffet—making it a cheap, light meal. Or, for more money, you can order serious regional specialties from Apulia and Piedmont (Mon-Sat 18:00-until late, closed Sun, Via della Madonna dei Monti 28, tel. 06-699-0968).
Zia Rosetta is a tiny eatery specializing in gourmet-like rosette, sandwiches on rose-shaped buns. At €3 for the tiny ones or €6 for the standard size, they’re a perfect for a light bite—either to take away or eat in. Their fun, healthy, and creative menu includes salads and fresh-squeezed, vitamin-bomb fruit and veggie juices (Tue-Sun 11:00-22:00, closed Mon, Via Urbana 54, tel. 06-3310-2516).
Pizzeria la Boccaccia serves eye-catching pizza to go by the gram. Point at what you like and mime how big of a rectangle you want. I recommend sampling several small slices, or go for a stuffed one—pizza farcita. They also have vegan and vegetarian options (Via Leonina 73, mobile 340-455-1968).
At dall’Antò, it’s all about traditional Italian bread hot out of the wood-fired oven. While you’ll find inexpensive standards like bruschetta and focaccia, the owners (Antonio and Antonio) encourage you to branch out with chickpea flatbread, chestnut crêpe, or crispy Sardinian flatbread. They serve €4 wine in paper cups (Tue-Thu 12:00-20:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-15:00 & 19:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-15:00, closed Mon, Via Madonna dei Monti 16, tel. 06-678-0712).
Gaudeo (“I’m Happy” in Latin) prides itself on assembling sandwiches from seasonal ingredients, either to go or eaten in their small, modern interior (€3-4 small sandwiches, €5-7 big sandwiches, €6-9 salads, €10 tagliere cheese-and-meat sampler platter, daily 10:00-21:00, Via del Boschetto 112, tel. 06-9818-3689).
Antico Forno ai Serpenti (“Old Bakery on Serpenti Street”) feels anything but old. This hip bakery—where you can watch the bakers through the laboratorio window—serves good bread, pastries, and other foods to go (daily 8:00-20:00, Via dei Serpenti 122-123, tel. 06-4542-7920).
Gelato: Fatamorgana, hiding on a welcoming little square a long block off of Monti’s main drag, features some of the most creative gelato flavor combinations I’ve seen in Italy—along with more conventional ones. Portions are small but good quality—everything is organic and gluten-free (Piazza degli Zingari 5, tel. 06-4890-6955).
Il Gelatone is another neighborhood favorite with a crowd-pleasing array of flavors including soy options (a block from main square at Via dei Serpenti 28, tel. 06-482-0187).
(See “Hotels & Restaurants near Ancient Rome” map, here.)
A pleasant little residential zone just up the street from the Colosseum (opposite direction from the Forum) features a real neighborhood feel and a variety of restaurants that capably serve tired and hungry sightseers.
Trattoria Luzzi is a well-worn, no-frills eatery serving simple food in a high-energy environment (as they’ve done since 1945). With good prices, big portions, and proximity to the Colosseum, it draws a crowd—reserve or expect a short wait at lunch and after 19:30 (€5-7 pizzas and pastas, €7-12 secondi, Thu-Tue 12:00-24:00, closed Wed, Via San Giovanni in Laterano 88, tel. 06-709-6332). If Luzzi is jam-packed, as it often is, Ristorante Pizzeria Naumachia (next door at Via Celimontana 7, tel. 06-700-2764) is a bit more upscale and serves good-quality pizza and pastas at decent prices (€6-8 pizzas, €8-10 pastas, €14-24 secondi).
Li Rioni is open only for dinner, when its over-the-rooftops interior and terrace out front are jammed with Romans watching the busy chef plunge dough into its wood-fired oven, then pull out crispy-crust Roman-style pizzas (€7-8 pizzas, Thu-Tue 19:30-24:00, closed Wed, Via S.S. Quattro 24, tel. 06-7045-0605).
La Taverna dei Quaranta, a casual neighborhood favorite, has a humble, red-checkered tablecloth ambience. In the evening, they fire up the wood oven for pizza, to go along with a basic menu of Roman classics and seasonal specialties. As the place caters mostly to locals, service can be a bit slow and straightforward—but it’s a good bet in this touristy area (€9-10 pastas, €10-14 secondi, daily 12:00-15:30 & 19:00-23:30, Via Claudia 24, tel. 06-700-0550).
(See “Hotels & Restaurants near Ancient Rome” map, here.)
You’ll find these places across the street and up the hill from the Colosseum. They’re more convenient than high cuisine, though they work fine in a pinch.
Hostaria da Nerone is a traditional place serving hearty classics, including tasty homemade pasta dishes. Their antipasti plate—with a variety of veggies, fish, and meat—is a good value for a quick lunch. While the antipasti menu indicates specifics, you can have a plate of whatever’s out—just direct the waiter to assemble the €10 antipasti plate of your lunchtime dreams (€11 pastas, €13-15 secondi, Mon-Sat 12:00-15:00 & 19:00-23:00, closed Sun, indoor/outdoor seating, Via delle Terme di Tito 96, tel. 06-481-7952, Teo and Eugenio).
Caffè dello Studente, next door to Hostaria da Nerone, is popular with engineering students attending the nearby University of Rome. The owners—Pina, Mauro, their perky daughter Simona, and their son-in-law Emiliano (the younger two speak English)—give my readers a friendly welcome. They serve average, microwaved bar gastronomia fare—toasted sandwiches, salads, and mixed bruschetta. If it’s not busy, show this book when you order at the bar and sit at a table without paying extra (€9 pastas, €10 fixed-price meal, Mon-Sat 7:30-21:00, Sun 8:30-19:00 in April-Oct, closed Sun in Nov-March, Via delle Terme di Tito, mobile 328-362-2186).
These restaurants are near my recommended hotels on Via Firenze. Several are clustered on Via Flavia, others are nearby (Target, etc.), and a few, such as Caffè Torino, are good options for quick meals.
(See “ Restaurants near Termini Station” map, here.)
To easily check out a fun and varied selection of eateries within a block of each other, walk to Via Flavia (a block behind the Church of Santa Maria della Vittoria of St. Teresa in Ecstasy fame) and survey these choices—an old-time restaurant, a good pizzeria, a small romantic place, and a friendly wine bar.
Ristorante da Giovanni, well-worn and old-fashioned, makes no concessions to tourism or the modern world—just hardworking cooks and waiters serving standard dishes at great prices to a committed clientele. It’s simply fun to eat in the middle of this high-energy Roman time warp (€6-14 pastas and secondi, daily specials, Mon-Sat 12:00-15:00 & 19:00-22:00, closed Sun and Aug, corner of Via XX Settembre at Via Antonio Salandra 1, tel. 06-485-950).
Ristorante la Pentolaccia, pricier and more romantic than the nearby Da Giovanni, is a dressy, more upscale, but still tourist-friendly place with tight seating and traditional Roman cooking—consider their daily specials. This is a local hangout, and reservations are smart (€8-14 pastas, €10-18 secondi, daily 12:00-15:00 & 17:30-23:00, a block off Via XX Settembre at Via Flavia 38, tel. 06-483-477, www.lapentolaccia.eu). To start things off with a free bruschetta, leave this book on the table.
Pizzeria Annicinquanta, big and classic, serves the neighborhood’s favorite pizzas in a calm ambience with outdoor seating (€6-8 Neapolitan-style pizzas, €9-18 pastas and secondi, daily 12:30-15:30 & 19:30-24:00 except no lunch on Sat, Via Flavia 3, tel. 06-4201-0460).
I Colori del Vino Enoteca is a modern wine bar that feels like a laboratory of wine appreciation. It has woody walls of bottles, a creative menu of affettati (cold cuts) and cheeses with different regional themes, and a great list of fine wines by the glass. Helpful, English-speaking Marco carries on a long family tradition of celebrating the fundamentals of good nutrition: fine wine, cheese, meat, and bread. Remember Shakespeare’s sage warning about drinking: “It provokes the desire, but it takes away the performance” (also €10-18 hot plates including pastas, Mon-Fri 10:30-15:00 & 17:30-23:00, closed Sat-Sun—except open Sat evenings in April-June and Sept-Nov, corner of Via Flavia and Via Aureliana, tel. 06-474-1745).
(See “ Restaurants near Termini Station” map, here.)
Target Restaurant seems to be the favorite recommendation of every hotel receptionist and tour guide for this neighborhood. It has a sleek and dressy ambience, capable service, and food that’s reliably good, but pricey (€9-14 salads, pastas, and pizzas; €17-22 secondi, free aperitivo with this book, daily 12:00-15:30 & 19:00-24:00 except no lunch on Sun, reserve to specify seating outside or inside—avoid getting seated in basement, Via Torino 33, tel. 06-474-0066, www.targetrestaurant.it).
(See “ Restaurants near Termini Station” map, here.)
Caffè Torino is a workers’ favorite for a quick, cheap lunch. They have good, fresh, hot dishes ready to go for a fine price. Head back past the bar to peruse their enticing display, point at what you want, then grab a seat and the young waitstaff will serve you (Mon-Fri 6:00-18:00, closed Sat-Sun, Via Torino 40, tel. 06-474-2767).
Snack Bar puts out a lunchtime display of inexpensive pastas, colorful sandwiches, fresh fruit, and salad. Their loyal customers appreciate the fruit salad with yogurt (€3-5 sandwiches and pasta dishes, daily 6:00-24:00, Via Firenze 33, tel. 06-9784-3866, Enrica).
Forno Firenze makes simple sandwiches and mini-pizzas, has a selection of well-priced wine, and stocks a few other goodies for a picnic to go (€2-4 sandwiches priced by weight, Mon-Fri 7:00-19:00, Sat 8:00-14:00, closed Sun, Via Firenze 51-52, tel. 06-488-5035, Giovanni).
Bufala e Pachino Pizza is a convenient place for pizza by the slice (al taglio) and priced by weight—just point and tell them how much you’d like. Their supplí (fried rice balls filled with mozzarella), at just €1 each, make for cheap, filling snacks (daily 8:00-23:00, Via Firenze 54).
Flann O’Brien Irish Pub is an entertaining place for a light meal of pasta...or something other than pasta, such as grilled meats and giant salads, served early and late, when other places are closed. They have Irish beer, live sporting events on TV, and perhaps the most Italian crowd of all. Walk way back before choosing a table. Live bands play about once per week (€11-16 pub grub, daily 7:00-24:00, Via Nazionale 17, at intersection with Via Napoli, tel. 06-488-0418).
As in the Colosseum area, eateries near the Vatican cater to exhausted tourists. Avoid the restaurant pushers handing out fliers: They’re usually hawking places with bad food and expensive menu tricks. Instead, tide yourself over with a slice of pizza or at any of these eateries (see map on here) and save your splurges for elsewhere.
(See “ Hotels & Restaurants near Vatican City” map, here.)
These are a stone’s throw from the Vatican wall, located halfway between St. Peter’s Basilica and the Vatican Museum. They’re all fast and cheap, with a good gelateria next door.
Hostaria dei Bastioni, run by Antonio while Emilio cooks, has noisy streetside seating and a quiet interior (€8-10 pastas, €8-13 secondi, Mon-Sat 12:00-15:30 & 18:30-23:00, closed Sun, at corner of Vatican wall at Via Leone IV 29, tel. 06-3972-3034).
L’Insalata Ricca is another branch of the popular chain that serves hearty salads and pastas (€6-10 meals, daily 12:30-23:30, across from Vatican walls at Piazza Risorgimento 5, tel. 06-3973-0387).
Duecento Gradi is a good bet for fresh and creative €5-7 sandwiches. Munch your lunch on a stool or take it away (daily 11:00-24:00, Piazza Risorgimento 3, tel. 06-3975-4239).
Gelato: Gelateria Old Bridge scoops up hearty portions of fresh gelato for tourists and nuns alike—join the line (just off Piazza Risorgimento across from Vatican walls at Via Bastioni 3).
(See “ Hotels & Restaurants near Vatican City” map, here.)
The first three listings—the restaurant, the streets with pizza shops, and the covered market—are near the Vatican Museum. The Borgo Pio eateries are near St. Peter’s Basilica.
Ristorante La Rustichella serves tasty wood-fired pizzas (€6-9) and the usual pastas (€7-10) in addition to their antipasti buffet (€8 for a single plate) in a no-frills, neighborhood setting. Do like the Romans do—take a moderate amount of antipasti and make one trip only (Tue-Sun 12:00-15:00 & 19:00-24:00, closed Mon, near Metro: Cipro, opposite church at end of Via Candia, Via Angelo Emo 1, tel. 06-3972-0649). Consider the fun and fruity Gelateria Millennium next door.
Viale Giulio Cesare and Via Candia: These streets are lined with cheap pizza rustica shops, self-serve places, and basic eateries. Forno Feliziani (closed Sun, Via Candia 61, tel. 06-3973-7362) is a good bet for pizza by the slice and simple cafeteria-style dishes.
Covered Market: As you collect picnic supplies, turn your nose loose in the wonderful Mercato Trionfale covered market. Almost completely untouristy (with lots of vendors, but no real prepared-food stands), it’s one of the best in the city, located three blocks north of the Vatican Museum (Mon-Sat roughly 7:00-14:00, Tue and Fri some stalls stay open until 19:00, closed Sun, corner of Via Tunisi and Via Andrea Doria). If the market is closed, try several nearby supermarkets; the most convenient is Carrefour Express (Mon-Sat 8:00-20:00, Sun 9:00-20:30, Via Sebastiano Veniero 16).
Along Borgo Pio: The pedestrians-only Borgo Pio—a block from Piazza San Pietro—has restaurants worth a look, such as Tre Pupazzi (Mon-Sat 12:00-15:00 & 19:00-23:00, closed Sun, at corner of Via Tre Pupazzi and Borgo Pio, tel. 06-686-8371). At Vecchio Borgo, across the street, you can get pasta, pizza slices, and veggies to go (Mon-Sat 9:00-21:00, closed Sun, Borgo Pio 27a, tel. 06-8117-3585).
Once a slaughterhouse district, working-class Testaccio is now going upscale. In recent years, particularly with the renovation of their bustling market hall, Testaccio has increasingly become a destination for local chefs and international foodies. While this zone is a bit more run-down, and feels slightly sketchy after dark, adventurous diners find it worth exploring.
Thanks to its history as the neighborhood of slaughterhouses, Testaccio (more so than elsewhere in Rome) is home to restaurants that are renowned for their ability to cook up the least palatable parts of the animals...the quinto quarto (“fifth quarter”): tripe (stomach), lungs, brains, sweetbreads (organs), tail, and so on. While trendsetting foodies (who call this “nose-to-tail” eating) seek out these dishes—and you’ll find them at most restaurants here—every place also has plenty of non-offal offerings.
For more information on this district—including a map showing the locations of the restaurants listed here—see here.
Testaccio Market is the place to head at lunchtime (open Mon-Sat until 14:00—though some food stalls stay open a bit later, closed Sun). Head toward the left side of the market (closest to Via Beniamino Franklin) to search out a few favorites for a light lunch. At Mordi & Vai (stall 15), Sergio makes tasty €3-4 sandwiches; locals love the trippa (tripe), but I prefer the panino con allesso (boiled beef with the bread dipped in broth) and picchiapò (stewed beef in a mildly spicy tomato sauce). As this is a popular place, you’ll need to take a number. Nearby, Dess’art (stall 66) will satisfy your sweet tooth with their creative pastries. For olives, cheese, and cold cuts, try Ferraro’s (stall 2-3, around the corner from Mordi & Vai). They’re also a good bet for edible souvenirs—dried porcini mushrooms and sun-dried tomatoes, as well as other specialties, many from Calabria (think spicy).
Agustarello has been serving Roman specialties since 1957, but their restaurant feels up-to-date and without pretense—the emphasis is on the food. As this family-run place is quite small and very lively, reservations are smart (€10 pastas, €12-18 secondi, Mon-Sat 12:30-15:00 & 19:30-24:00, closed Sun, Via Giovanni Branca 98, tel. 06-574-6585 or mobile 345-066-5646).
Flavio al Velavevodetto, partially set inside Monte Testaccio (windows reveal the ancient stacked pottery shards), is a good place to try traditional Roman classics like coda alla vaccinara (oxtail) or less adventurous options (€8-10 pastas, €12-18 secondi, daily 12:30-15:00 & 19:30-23:00, reservations smart for dinner, Via di Monte Testaccio 97, tel. 06-574-4194, www.flavioalvelavevodetto.it).
Pizzeria Remo—the humble pizza joint with the huge mob of locals out front late into the evening—is a favorite for Roman-style (thin, crispy-crust) pizza and deep-fried appetizers. If people are jamming the entrance, muscle your way inside and put your name on the list; there’s ample seating, and table turnover is brisk (€6-8 pizzas, Mon-Sat 19:00-24:00, closed Sun, Piazza Santa Maria Liberatrice 44, tel. 06-574-6270).
Volpetti Più is a fixture in this neighborhood of foodies for its great pizza and tavola calda. If you need a cheap, quick, and tasty lunch or early dinner, drop by, pick up a tray, and point to what looks (and is) good (€5-8 meals, Mon-Sat 10:30-15:30 & 17:30-21:30, closed Sun, just off Via Marmorata at Via Alessandro Volta 8, tel. 06-574-2352). Their deli (similar hours) at Via Marmorata 47 is a sensory extravaganza for anyone enthusiastic about gourmet Italian cheeses, meats, and olive oils.
Perilli is the neighborhood’s classic, old-school eating house—rollicking with tight tables of local families since 1911 (€11-13 pastas, €11-14 daily specials, Thu-Tue 12:30-15:00 & 19:30-23:15, closed Wed, Via Marmorata 39, tel. 06-5710-2846).
L’Oasi della Birra (“Beer Oasis”) is well-known among Roman beer lovers, as it stocks more than 500 Italian and international brews. The main floor is a bottle shop and classy grocery, while the nondescript cellar and the terrace out front serve as a popular bar for locals to hang out and dine on pub grub. This is not a place for a fine meal or special ambience, but rather, to enjoy a beer and the lively local scene (€8 bruschetta and salads, €9-12 daily specials; during happy hour from 17:30 to 20:30—except on Sun—€10 buys you a beer and access to their light dinner spread; open Mon-Sat 8:00-13:30 & 16:00-24:00, Sun 19:00-24:00 only, Piazza Testaccio 38, tel. 06-574-6122).
Rome is well-connected with the rest of the planet: by train, bus, plane, car, and cruise ship. This section addresses your arrival and departure from the city. It explains the various options and gives a rundown on their points of departure.
Rome’s main train station is the centrally located Termini train station, which has connections to the airport. Rome’s other major station is the Tiburtina bus/train station, which is starting to get some high-speed rail connections, including privately run Italo trains (see here). For in-depth descriptions of Termini and Tiburtina stations, see here.
Smaller stations include Ostiense (some high-speed rail service, mostly Italo) and its neighbor, Porta San Paolo, (connections to Ostia Antica). If you’re staying near the Vatican and taking a regional train, it saves time to get off at the San Pietro train station rather than at Termini; from this station, bus #64 connects you to the Vatican area and to other major landmarks around Rome. Cruise-ship passengers coming from Civitavecchia on a day trip usually use Ostiense or San Pietro.
The most convenient connections for travelers nearly all depart from Termini, but as a precaution, it’s always smart to confirm whether your train departs from Termini or Tiburtina. Note that the following connections are for Trenitalia; for Italo connections, see www.italotreno.it.
From Rome’s Termini Station by Train to: Venice (roughly hourly, 3.5 hours, overnight possible), Florence (at least hourly, 1.5 hours, some stop at Orvieto en route), Siena (1-2/hour, 3-3.5 hours, change in Florence or Chiusi), Orvieto (roughly hourly, 1-1.5 hours), Assisi (nearly hourly, 2-3.5 hours, 5 direct, most others change in Foligno), Pisa (2/hour, 3-4 hours, many change in Florence), La Spezia (8/day direct, more with transfers in Pisa, 3-4.5 hours), Milan (hourly, 3 hours, overnight possible), Naples (at least hourly, 1.25 hours on Frecciarossa or Italo trains, otherwise 2 hours), Civitavecchia cruise-ship port (2-3/hour, 40-80 minutes), Brindisi (6/day, 3 direct, 5-9 hours, overnight possible), Amsterdam (6/day, 20 hours), Interlaken (5/day, 6.5-8 hours), Frankfurt (6/day, 11-12 hours), Munich (5/day, 9-10 hours, 1 direct night train, 11.5 hours), Nice (1/day, 13 hours), Paris (3/day, 11-12 hours, 1-2 changes), Vienna (2/day, 11.75 hours, 1 direct night train, 12 hours).
From Rome’s Tiburtina Station by Train to: Florence (2-4/hour, 1.5 hours), Milan (almost hourly, 3-3.5 hours), Naples (almost hourly, 1.5 hours), Venice (almost hourly, 3.5 hours).
Long-distance buses (such as from Siena and Assisi) arrive at Rome’s Tiburtina Station (described on here).
From Rome by Bus to: Assisi (2/day, 3 hours—the train makes much more sense), Siena (9-10/day, 3 hours), Sorrento (1-2/day, 4 hours; this is a cheap and easy way to go straight to Sorrento, buy tickets at Ticket Bus at Tiburtina, other travel agencies, or on board for a €3 surcharge; tel. 080-579-0111, www.marozzivt.it—in Italian only).
Rome’s two airports—Fiumicino (a.k.a. Leonardo da Vinci, airport code: FCO) and the small Ciampino (airport code: CIA)—share the same website (www.adr.it).
Rome’s major airport has a TI (in Terminal 3, daily 8:00-19:30), ATMs, banks, luggage storage, shops, and bars. The Rome Walks website (www.romewalks.com) has a useful video on options for getting into the city from the airport. For airport information, call 06-65951. To inquire about flights, call 06-6595-3640.
The slick, direct Leonardo Express train connects the airport and Rome’s central Termini train station in 30 minutes for €14. Trains run twice hourly in both directions from roughly 6:00 to 23:00 (leaving the airport usually at :06 and :36). From the airport’s arrival gate, follow signs to the train icon or Stazione/Railway Station. Buy your ticket from a machine, the Biglietteria office, or a newsstand near the platform; then validate it in a yellow machine near the track. Make sure the train you board is going to the central “Roma Termini” station, not “Roma Orte” or others.
Going from Termini train station to the airport, trains depart at about :20 and :50 past each hour, usually from track 24. Check the departure boards for “Fiumicino Aeroporto”—the local name for the airport—and confirm with an official or a local on the platform that the train is indeed going to the airport (€14, buy ticket from any tobacco shop or a newsstand in the station, or at the self-service machines, Termini-Fiumicino trains run 5:50-22:50). Read your ticket: If it requires validation, stamp it in the green or yellow machines near the platform before boarding. From the train station at the airport, you can access most of the terminals. American airlines flying direct to the US depart from Terminal 5, which is a separate building not connected to the rest of the terminals. If you arrive by train, catch the T5 shuttle bus (navetta) on the sidewalk in front of Terminal 3—it’s too far to walk with luggage.
Allow lots of time going in either direction; there’s a fair amount of transportation involved (e.g., getting from your hotel to Termini, the ride to the airport, the walk from the airport train station to check-in, etc.). Flying to the US involves an extra level of security—plan on getting to the airport even earlier than normal (flying transatlantic, I like to arrive 2.5 hours ahead of my flight; within Europe, 2 hours is usually sufficient).
Various bus companies, including Terravision (www.terravision.eu), SIT (www.sitbusshuttle.com), and Atral (www.atral-lazio.com) connect Fiumicino and Termini train station, departing roughly every 40 minutes. While cheaper than the train (about €5 one-way), buses take twice as long (about an hour, depending on traffic) and can potentially fill up (allow plenty of extra time; leaves the airport from Terminal 3, leaves Termini Station from Via Marsala—just outside the exit closest to track 1). The Terravision bus also stops near the Vatican. At the airport, the companies’ desks line up in Terminal 3, near the entrance to the train station; I’d just compare my options and hop on whichever one is departing first.
Shuttle van services run to and from the airport and can be economical for one or two people. It’s cheaper from the airport to downtown, as several companies compete for this route; by surveying the latest deals, you should be able to snare a ride into town for around €10-15. To get from your hotel to the airport, consider Rome Airport Shuttle (€25/1 person, extra people-€6 each, by reservation only, tel. 06-4201-4507 or 06-4201-3469, www.airportshuttle.it).
A taxi between Fiumicino and downtown Rome takes 45 minutes in normal traffic (for tips on taxis, see here). If you’re catching a taxi at the airport, be sure to wait at the taxi stand. Avoid unmarked, unmetered taxis; these guys will try to tempt you away from the taxi-stand lineup by offering an immediate (rip-off) ride. Rome’s and Fiumicino’s official taxis have a fixed rate to and from the airport (€48 for up to four people with normal-size bags).
Cabbies not based in Rome or Fiumicino are allowed to charge €70 for the ride. That sign is posted next to the €48-fare sign—confusing many tourists and allowing dishonest cabbies to overcharge. It’s best to use Rome city cabs, which have a maroon logo with the words “Roma Capitale” on the door. They can only charge €48 for the ride to anywhere in the historic center (within the old city walls, where most of my recommended hotels are located).
If your cab driver tries to charge you more than €48 from the airport into town, say, “Quarant’otto euro—è la legge” (kwah-RAHN-OH-toh eh-OO-roh—eh lah LEH-jeh; which means, “Forty-eight euros—it’s the law”), and they should back off.
To get from the airport into town cheaply by taxi, try teaming up with any tourist also just arriving (most are heading for hotels near yours in the center). When you’re departing Rome, your hotel can arrange a taxi to the airport at any hour.
Rome’s smaller airport (tel. 06-6595-9515) handles charter flights and some budget airlines (including most Ryanair flights).
Various bus companies—including Cotral, Terravision, and SIT—will take you to Rome’s Termini train station (about €5 and 2/hour for each company, 45 minutes). Cotral also runs a quicker route (25 minutes) to the Anagnina Metro stop, where you can connect by Metro to the stop nearest your hotel (departs every 40 minutes). At Termini Station, buses pick up on Via Marsala (closest to track 1).
The fixed price for any official taxi (with the maroon “Roma Capitale” logo on the door) is €30 to downtown (within the old city walls, including most of my recommended hotels).
Rome Airport Shuttle also offers service to and from Ciampino (€25/1 person, listed earlier).
Hundreds of cruise ships—including Carnival, Royal Caribbean, Princess, and Celebrity lines—dock each year at the port of Civitavecchia, about 45 miles northwest of Rome. If your trip includes cruising beyond Rome, consider my guidebook, Rick Steves Mediterranean Cruise Ports. Port facilities include a TI (tel. 0766-679-619), ATMs, Internet access, bag storage, and cafés.
To get from your ship to Civitavecchia’s train station, take the free shuttle bus to the port entrance (some shuttles may take you all the way to the station—ask). From the shuttle-bus stop, walk through the security checkpoint at the port gate, and then walk about 10 minutes straight ahead up the main road with the sea on your right-hand side. After about three blocks, at Hotel de La Ville, bear left and uphill through a long parking lot to the pale-orange train station (marked Civitavecchia); if you get turned around, look for signs to Stazione FF. SS.
Taxis also wait at the port gate, attempting to extort €15 for the very short ride to the train station (tel. 076-626-121). A local bus to the train station only saves you a few minutes of walking; take one only if you’re carrying heavy bags or have limited mobility. Buses #B, #C, and #D go from just above the port gate on Largo Plebiscito (Viale Garibaldi stop) one stop to the train station (Stazione FF. SS. stop; €1, 3-4/hour, 5 minutes, buy ticket at a tobacco shop before you board).
The traffic between Civitavecchia and Rome is terrible, making trains faster and more economical than a taxi (which can run €110-150 one-way). Recommended driver Ezio of Autoservizi Monti Concezio takes cruise travelers to Rome in a private car (€130/2 people, €20 for each additional person) and offers full-day tours of the city (€400 for up to 6 people, €450 for up to 8; see “Car and Minibus Tours” on here). Beware of unlicensed taxis offering a huge price break; local police sometimes follow these “gypsy” cabs in a scam that imposes hefty fines on both the driver and the passengers (the driver later gets a kickback from the cop).
Keep in mind that it takes approximately 1.5 hours each way to get between your ship and downtown Rome—so you’ll need to mentally subtract at least three hours from the time you have in port.
Frequent trains (2-3/hour) connect Civitavecchia with several stations in Rome. Depending on your sightseeing plans, you’ll likely be best off heading either to Ostiense Station (with a handy Metro station, just two stops from the Colosseum) or San Pietro Station (10-minute walk or a couple of stops on bus #64 to get to St. Peter’s Basilica). Termini Station, the main hub for the city’s transit and for shuttle trains to the airport, overshoots the key sights a bit.
Regional trains (marked REG) head into Rome roughly twice an hour, stopping at San Pietro and Ostiense stations on their way to Termini (40-55 minutes to San Pietro, 55-70 minutes to Ostiense, 65-80 minutes to Termini). The Intercity train (marked IC) is somewhat faster (40-50 minutes to Ostiense, 50 minutes to Termini), but doesn’t stop at San Pietro, and isn’t covered by the good-value BIRG ticket (described next). When there are enough ships in port to justify it, there’s also a special express “Vatican train non-stop” to San Pietro, offering one daily round-trip designed for cruise travelers.
If you’re taking a regional train, save money by getting the wonderful BIRG ticket: a €12 day pass covering second-class, round-trip train travel between Civitavecchia and Rome as well as unlimited travel on Rome’s buses, Metro, and trams—a great convenience (not valid on fast Intercity trains or the express train to San Pietro). Otherwise, expect to pay about €5 each way for regional trains or €10 on the Intercity. All train tickets must be validated in the green or yellow box before getting on the train.
The Civitavecchia train station has five main platforms (binario, or bin; numbered 1 through 5), connected by an underground tunnel. There are also two “short” (tronco) platforms, 1T and 2T, at the far-right end of the station as you face the tracks; these are not the same as tracks 1 and 2. Be sure you’re waiting at the correct platform. For a useful video on taking the train from the port into the city, check out the Rome Walks website (www.romewalks.com).
You’ll need to take two trains to link Civitavecchia and Fiumicino Airport: one between Civitavecchia and Rome’s Termini train station, and another between Termini and the airport. See “By Plane,” earlier.
Shuttle van services run between the port and Rome’s Fiumicino Airport. Try Rome Airport Shuttle (€90/1-2 people, €15 each additional person up to 8, share with others and save, much more for pickup between 21:00 and 7:00, tel. 06-4201-4507 or 06-4201-3469, www.airportshuttle.it). A taxi costs about €120 one-way between Civitavecchia and Fiumicino Airport.
