Napoli
Map: “A Slice of Neapolitan Life” Walk
Near Via Toledo and Spaccanapoli
Map: Naples Hotels & Restaurants
Map: Naples Hotels & Restaurants Key
If you like Italy as far south as Rome, go farther south—it gets better. If Italy is getting on your nerves, don’t go farther. Italy intensifies as you plunge deeper. Naples is Italy in the extreme—its best (birthplace of pizza and Sophia Loren) and its worst (home of the Camorra, Naples’ “family” of organized crime).
Neapolis (“new city”) was a thriving Greek commercial center 2,500 years ago. Today, it remains southern Italy’s leading city. Naples impresses visitors with one of Europe’s top archaeological museums (with the artistic treasures of Pompeii), fascinating churches that convey the city’s unique personality and powerful devotion, an underground warren of Greek and Roman ruins, fine works of art (including pieces by Caravaggio, who lived here for a time), and evocative Nativity scenes (called presepi). Naples, of course, makes the best pizza you’ll find anywhere, and tasty pastries as well (try the crispy, ricotta-stuffed sfogliatella). But more than anything, Naples has a brash and vibrant street life—“Italy in your face” in ways both good and bad. Walking through its colorful old town is one of my favorite experiences anywhere in Europe. For a grand overlook, head to the hilltop viewpoint (San Martino) for sweeping views of the city and its bay.
Naples—Italy’s third-largest city, with more than one million people—has almost no open spaces or parks, which makes its position as Europe’s most densely populated city plenty evident. Watching the police try to enforce traffic sanity is almost comical in Italy’s grittiest, most polluted, and most crime-ridden city. But Naples surprises the observant traveler with its impressive knack for living, eating, and raising children in its streets with good humor and decency. Overcome your fear of being run down or ripped off long enough to talk with people. Enjoy a few smiles and jokes with the man running the neighborhood tripe shop, or the woman taking her day-care class on a walk through the traffic.
The pulse of Italy throbs in Naples. Like Cairo or Mumbai, it’s appalling and captivating at the same time, the closest thing to “reality travel” that you’ll find in Western Europe. But this tangled mess still somehow manages to breathe, laugh, and sing—with a joyful Italian accent. Thanks to its reputation as a crime-ridden and dangerous place, Naples doesn’t get nearly as many tourists as it deserves. While the city has its problems, it has improved a lot in recent years. And even though it’s a bit edgy, I feel comfortable here. Naples richly rewards those who venture in.
Naples is also the springboard for a full region of sightseeing treats (covered in the next three chapters): Just beyond Naples are the remarkable ruins of Pompeii and Herculaneum, and the brooding volcano that did them both in, Mount Vesuvius. A few more miles down the road is the pleasant resort town of Sorrento and the offshore escape isle of Capri. And plunging even farther south, you’ll reach the dramatic scenery of the Amalfi Coast.
Naples makes an ideal day trip either from Rome or from the comfortable home base of Sorrento, located an hour south. Or stow your bag at the station and see Naples in a few hours while you change trains here on the way between Rome and Sorrento. A little Naples goes a long way; if you’re not comfortable in chaotic and congested cities, think twice before spending the night here. But those who are intrigued by the city’s sights and street life enjoy overnighting in Naples.
On a quick visit, start with the Archaeological Museum (closed Tue), follow my self-guided Naples walk, and celebrate your survival with pizza. With more time, dip into more churches, go underground to see Greek and Roman ruins, and consider ascending San Martino for the view. Of course, Naples is huge. But even with limited time, if you stick to the prescribed route and grab a cab when you’re lost or tired, it’s fun. Treat yourself well in Naples; the city is cheap by Italian standards. This is a place where splurging on a sane and comfortable hotel is a particularly worthwhile investment.
For a blitz tour from Rome, you could have breakfast on an early Rome-Naples express train (usually daily 7:35-8:45), do Naples and Pompeii in a day, and be back in Rome in time for bed. That’s exhausting, but more memorable than a fourth day in Rome.
Remember that on summer afternoons, Naples’ street life slows and many churches and museums close as the temperature soars. The city comes back to life in the early evening.
Naples is set deep inside the large and curving Bay of Naples, with Mount Vesuvius looming just five miles away. Although Naples is a sprawling city, its fairly compact core contains the most interesting sights. The tourist’s Naples is a triangle, with its points at the Centrale train station in the east, the Archaeological Museum to the west, and the Piazza del Plebiscito (with the Royal Palace) and the port to the south. Steep hills rise above this historic core, including San Martino, capped with a mighty fortress.
Central Naples has six TIs (run variously by the city, the region, and a local business association), all of which are equally incapable of dispensing reliable advice. All are understaffed and have little to offer besides free maps. The most convenient—but perhaps least helpful—is in the Centrale train station (daily 9:00-18:00, near track 23, operated by a private agency, tel. 081-268-779). This is a convenient place to buy Campania ArteCard passes (see sidebar).
Other TIs are scattered around town: There are two near Piazza del Plebiscito, near the port: one right on the piazza at #14, under the arches to the right of church entrance (Mon-Fri 9:00-19:00, closed Sat-Sun, tel. 081-795-6162); and another by the entrance to the Galleria Umberto I shopping mall, across from Teatro di San Carlo (Mon-Sat 9:00-17:00, Sun 9:00-13:00, tel. 081-402-394). Along Spaccanapoli, there’s an office across from the Church of Gesù Nuovo (Mon-Sat 9:00-17:00, Sun 9:00-13:00, tel. 081-551-2701). By the Museo Metro stop, in the park next to the Archaeological Museum, is a tiny information kiosk (Mon-Fri 10:00-17:00, Sat 10:00-14:00, closed Sun). And cruise-ship passengers exiting the cruise terminal complex pass through a little checkpoint (marked Molo Angioino) that has a small TI.
For information online, the best overall website is www.inaples.it. At www.inaples.it/eng/quinapoli.htm, you can download the PDF version of the Qui Napoli booklet, which lists museum hours, events, and transportation info. A print version is occasionally available at the TI.
There are several Naples train stations, but all trains coming into town stop at either Napoli Centrale or Garibaldi—which are essentially the same place, with Centrale on top of Garibaldi. Stretching in front of this station complex is the vast and gritty Piazza Garibaldi.
Centrale is the main station, serving trains on the main line. It’s been spruced up in the past few years and has lots of facilities, including a small TI (near track 23), an ATM (at Banco di Napoli near track 24), a bookstore (La Feltrinelli, daily 7:00-21:00, near track 24), a baggage check (€6/5 hours, then €0.90/hour, daily 8:00-20:00, marked deposito bagagli, near track 5), and a ticket office (daily 5:50-21:10). WCs (€1) are down the stairs across from track 13.
Garibaldi is a commuter rail station on the lower level of the Centrale Station complex. Get off here if arriving on the Circumvesuviana train line from Sorrento or Pompeii (the line terminates one stop deeper into downtown, at the Napoli Porta Nolana station). Garibaldi is also used by a few regular trains to make a quick stop as they barrel through. For more on the Circumvesuviana, see the “Getting Around the Region” sidebar on here.
Naples is a ferry hub with great boat connections to Sorrento, Capri, and other nearby destinations. Ferries use the Molo Beverello dock, while cruise ships use the nearby Stazione Marittima cruise terminal. The two docks are side-by-side at the port on the southeast edge of downtown Naples, near Castel Nuovo and the grand square called Piazza del Plebiscito. In the covered area between the cruise-terminal buildings, you’ll find cafés and various shops, including a tobacco shop (where you can buy bus tickets).
Whether arriving by ferry or cruise ship, you can get to the city center by taxi, bus, or on foot; the Alibus shuttle bus runs to the airport (see “By Plane,” below; the stop is a couple of blocks inland from the port, between Castel Nuovo and Teatro di San Carlo).
The taxi stand is in front of the port area. A posted sign lists official fixed prices—to get to the train station or to the Archaeological Museum figure on €11-13 (see “Getting Around Naples—By Taxi” on here).
Tram #1 stops at the busy road directly in front of the cruise terminal and heads to Piazza Garibaldi and the train station, where you can connect to trains to sights outside of town (6/hour, 15 minutes, buy €1.30 ticket at tobacco shop, validate ticket in yellow box on the tram as you board); to reach the Circumvesuviana commuter line to Pompeii or Sorrento, you can hop off this tram a bit earlier, at Porta Nolana, to catch the train at its starting point.
Straight ahead across the road from the cruise terminal (on the right side of the big fortress) is a drab square called Piazza Municipio; from here, a bus stop to Naples’ Archaeological Museum is a block down on Via Agostino Depretis (#R4, departs every 10-15 minutes, ride six stops to Piazza Museo). The new Municipio Metro stop, which may open here in 2015, will zip you to the museum faster (take line 1 three stops, to Museo).
On foot, it’s a seven-minute walk—past the gigantic Castel Nuovo—to Piazza del Plebiscito and the old city center: After crossing the busy street in front of the port, head up the ramp just to the right of the castle. At the top, angle left, past Teatro di San Carlo, to Piazza del Plebiscito. From this square, you could do a truncated version of my self-guided walk (begin near the end of “Part 2,” do that stretch backward up the hill, then launch right into “Part 3”).
Naples International Airport (a.k.a. Capodichino, code: NAP) is located a few miles outside of town (tel. 081-789-6111 for operator, tel. 848-888-777 for info, www.gesac.it). Alibus shuttle buses zip you from the airport to Naples’ Centrale train station/Piazza Garibaldi in 15 minutes, and then head to the port/Piazza Municipio for boats to Capri and Sorrento (buses run daily 6:30-24:00, 3/hour, less frequent early and late, 30 minutes to the port, €3 ticket from a tobacco shop or €4 on board, turn right as you exit and find platform #2 at the bus stop, stops at train station and port only). It’s tough to get a cabbie to use the meter from the airport, but a taxi ride should cost about €20 (see “Getting Around Naples—By Taxi” on page ).
To reach Sorrento from Naples Airport, take the direct Curreri bus (daily at 9:00, 11:00, 13:00, 14:30, 16:30, and 19:30; 1.25 hours, €10, pay driver, tel. 081-801-5420, www.curreriviaggi.it).
Theft Alert: While most travelers visit Naples completely safely, err on the side of caution. Don’t venture into neighborhoods that make you uncomfortable. The areas close to the train station are especially seedy. Walk with confidence, as if you know where you’re going and what you’re doing. Touristy Spaccanapoli and the posh Via Toledo shopping boulevard are more upscale, but you’ll still see rowdy kids and panhandlers. Assume able-bodied beggars are thieves.
Stick to busy streets and beware of gangs of hoodlums. A third of the city is unemployed, and past local governments have set an example that the Mafia would be proud of. Assume con artists are more clever than you. Any jostle or commotion is probably a thief-team smokescreen. To keep bags safe, it’s probably best to leave them at your hotel or at the left-luggage office in Centrale Station.
Always walk on the sidewalk (even if the locals don’t) and carry your bag on the side away from the street—thieves on scooters have been known to snatch bags as they swoop by. The less you have dangling from you (including cameras and necklaces), the better.
Perhaps your biggest risk of theft is while catching or riding the Circumvesuviana commuter train. If you’re connecting from a long-distance express, you’ll be stepping from a relatively secure compartment into an often crowded and dingy train, where disoriented tourists with luggage delicately mix with the residents of Naples’ most down-at-heel districts. It’s prime hunting ground for thieves. While I ride the Circumvesuviana comfortably and safely, each year I hear of many travelers who get ripped off on this ride. You won’t be mugged—but you may be conned or pickpocketed. Especially late at night, the Circumvesuviana train is plagued by intimidating ruffians. For maximum safety and peace of mind, sit in the front car, where the driver will double as your protector, and avoid riding it after dark.
Con artists may say you need to “transfer” by taxi to catch the Circumvesuviana; you don’t. Carry your own bags and keep valuables buttoned up.
Traffic Safety: In Naples, red lights are discretionary, and pedestrians need to be wary, particularly of motor scooters. Even on “pedestrian” streets, stay alert to avoid being sideswiped by scooters that nudge their way through the crowds. Keep children close. Smart tourists jaywalk in the shadow of bold and confident locals, who generally ignore crosswalks. Wait for a break in traffic, cross with confidence, and make eye contact with approaching drivers. The traffic will stop.
Bookstore: La Feltrinelli, conveniently located in Centrale Station, carries a small selection of English-language books, including my guidebooks (daily 7:00-21:00, near track 24).
Laundry: Laundry DIY, between Piazza Dante and the Archaeological Museum, will—despite its name—do your laundry for you (€8/load, Mon-Fri 8:00-19:15, Sat 8:00-13:15, closed Sun, Via Vincenzo Bellini 50, mobile 339-318-0876).
Supermarket: Superò is a block off Piazza Dante, close to my recommended hotels along Via Toledo and Spaccanapoli (Mon-Sat 8:30-20:30, Sun 8:30-14:00, Via San Domenico Soriano 20e).
Naples’ entire public transportation system—Metro, buses, funicular railways, and the single tram line—uses the same tickets, which must be stamped as you enter (in the yellow machines). A €1.30 single transit ticket gives you the run of the system for 1.5 hours, with unlimited changes. Tickets are sold at tabacchi stores, some newsstands, and occasionally at station windows; the few ticket machines you’ll see are usually out of order. A giornaliero day pass costs €3.70 (€3.10 on weekends) and pays for itself with three rides, but can be hard to find; many tabacchi stores don’t sell them. Several versions of the Campania ArteCard (see sidebar on here) include free public transport in Naples, but the card doesn’t work in the subway and funicular turnstiles; you’ll have to show it to the staff, who will open the gate for you. For general information, maps, and fares in English, visit www.unicocampania.it. For schedules, your only option is the Italian-only site www.anm.it.
By Subway: Naples’ subway, the Metropolitana, has three main lines.
Line 1 is currently being extended, adding several new stations that will eventually make it very useful for tourists. The completion dates given here are subject to change: From the Museo stop (Archaeological Museum), line 1 heads to Dante (at Piazza Dante, between the museum and Spaccanapoli), Toledo (south end of Via Toledo, near Piazza del Plebiscito), Municipio (may open in 2015; at Piazza Municipio, just above the harbor and cruise terminal), Università (the university), Duomo (scheduled to open in 2016; near the cathedral and the end of my self-guided walk), and Garibaldi (on Piazza Garibaldi in front of Centrale Station).
Line 2 (technically part of the Italian rail system) is most useful for getting from the train station to the Archaeological Museum quickly: It runs from Centrale Station (catch it downstairs—the stop is called Garibaldi; usually leaves from binario 4) to Piazza Cavour (by the Archaeological Museum). Other stops on line 2 include Montesanto (top of Spanish Quarter and Spaccanapoli street, and base of funicular up to San Martino), and Amedeo (recommended hotel in the Chiaia district). The new line 6 is not yet complete; it will begin at Municipio and head west—unlikely to be of much use to tourists.
Station entrances and signs to the Metro are marked by a red square with a white M.
By Funicular: Central Naples’ three funiculars (funicolare) carry commuters and sightseers into the hilly San Martino neighborhood just west of downtown. All three converge near Piazza Fuga, a short walk from the hilltop fortress and monastery/museum. The Centrale line runs from the Spanish Quarter, just near Piazza del Plebiscito and the Toledo Metro stop; the Montesanto line from the Montesanto Metro stop and Via Pignasecca market zone; and the Chiaia line from near the Piazza Amadeo Metro stop.
By Bus: Buses can be handy for certain trips, such as getting from the port to the Archaeological Museum (bus #R4), or if you curtail my self-guided walk from Via Toledo back to the station. But buses are crowded and poorly signed, and aren’t a user-friendly option for uninitiated newcomers.
By Tram: Tram line #1 runs along Corso Garibaldi (at the other end of the big square from Centrale Station) and down to the waterfront, terminating by the ferry and cruise terminals (direction: Stazione Marittima; with your back to the station, the tram heads toward the left). It’s useful if you’re connecting from boat to train, or returning to the port after finishing my self-guided walk.
By Taxi: Taxi drivers in Naples are notorious for overcharging. A short ride in town should cost €10-12. Ask for the tariffa predeterminata (a fixed rate). Your hotel can tell you what a given ride should cost. There are some legitimate extra charges (baggage fees, €2.50 supplement after 22:00 or all day Sun and holidays). Radio Taxi 8888 is one reputable company (tel. 081-8888).
Pina Esposito knows her ancient archaeology and art and does fine private walking and driving tours of Naples and the region (Pompeii, Capri, the Amalfi Coast, etc.), including Naples’ Archaeological Museum (€60/hour, 2-hour minimum, 10 percent off with this book, lower rates for full-day tours, mobile 366-622-8217, giuseppina.esposito20@istruzione.it). The team at Mondo Guide also offers private tours of the museum (€120/2 hours), city (€240/4 hours), and region, along with a special deal for my readers—see sidebar on here (tel. 081-751-3290, www.mondoguide.it, info@mondoguide.it).
CitySightseeing Napoli tour buses make three different loops through the city, allowing riders to get on and off to explore. While the city’s most engaging charms are buried in the tight tangle of lanes near Spaccanapoli, a bus tour does give you a better sense of the greater Naples that this chapter largely ignores (€22, ticket valid 24 hours, infrequent departures—4-11/day depending on route, buy from driver or from kiosk at Piazza Municipio in front of Castel Nuovo near the port, scant recorded narration; for details, see the brochure at hotels and TI, tel. 081-551-7279, www.napoli.city-sightseeing.it). The same company offers another route, traversing the historical center in an open-top minibus, but it’s of marginal value as it misses the city’s best parts: the pedestrian areas (€7, €25 combo-ticket with the main route, 40-minute loop, departs in front of the Church of Gesù Nuovo).
Convenient for cruise-ship passengers, the Can’t Be Missed tour company gives you a quick look at Naples, Pompeii, Sorrento, and the Amalfi Coast with a group and local guide for €65 (meet at 8:00 in front of port, bus leaves at 8:30, returns at 17:00, Pompeii ticket extra, mobile 329-129-8182, www.cantbemissedtours.com, 10 percent discount with this book—use promo code “RICKSTEVES” on their website).
Naples’ Archaeological Museum (Museo Archeologico), worth ▲▲▲ offers the best possible peek at the art and decorations of Pompeii and Herculaneum, the two ancient burgs that were buried in ash by the eruption of Mount Vesuvius in A.D. 79. For lovers of antiquity, this museum alone makes Naples a worthwhile stop. When Pompeii was excavated in the late 1700s, Naples’ Bourbon king bellowed, “Bring me the best of what you find!” The finest art and artifacts ended up here, and today, the ancient sites themselves are impressive but barren. (If you’d like to visit those sites—both an easy train ride from Naples—see the next chapter.)
Cost and Hours: €8, sometimes more for temporary exhibits, free first Sun of the month, cash only, Wed-Mon 9:00-19:30, closed Tue, last entry 30 minutes before closing. Early and temporary closures are noted on a board near the ticket office. In July and August, expect many rooms to be closed due to lack of staff.
Getting There: To take the subway (Metropolitana) from Centrale Station, follow the signs to the Garibaldi subway station (down the stairs in front of track 13). Buy a single transit ticket at the newsstand or a tobacco shop (unless you’re getting a pass), and validate it in the small yellow boxes near the escalator going down to the tracks. You’re looking for trains on line 2 (Linea 2), heading in the direction of Pozzuoli (generally depart from track 4). Hop on any train that comes through (confirm by its sign or with a local that it’s going to Pozzuoli), and ride the subway one stop to Cavour. As you leave the Metro, exit and hike five minutes uphill through the park along the busy street. Look for a grand old red building located up a flight of stairs at the top of the block.
If taking the Metro back to Centrale Station, make sure to catch your train in the Cavour subway station, rather than at the connected Museo stop (which is on a different line that takes longer to get back to Garibaldi).
Figure on €12 for a taxi from the train station to the museum.
Information: The shop sells a worthwhile National Archaeological Museum of Naples guidebook for €12. Tel. 081-442-2149.
Tours: My self-guided tour (below) covers all the basics. For more detail, the decent audioguide costs €5 (at ticket desk). For a guided tour, book Pina Esposito (see “Tours in Naples,” earlier).
Baggage Check: Bag check is obligatory and free.
Photography: Photos are allowed without a flash.
Eating: The museum has no café, but vending machines sell drinks and snacks at reasonable prices. There are several good places to grab a meal within a few blocks; see here.
Entering the museum, stand at the base of the grand staircase. To your right, on the ground floor, are the larger-than-life statues of the Farnese Collection, starring the Toro Farnese and the Farnese Hercules. Up the stairs on the mezzanine level (turn left at the lion) are mosaics and frescoes from Pompeii, including the Battle of Alexander and the Secret Room of erotic art. On the top floor are more frescoes, a scale model of Pompeii, and bronze statues from Herculaneum. WCs are behind the staircase.
• From the base of the grand staircase, turn right through the door marked Collezione Farnese and head to the far end—walking through a rich collection of idealistic and realistic ancient portrait busts—to reach the farthest room (Sala XIII).
The museum’s ground floor alone has enough Greek and Roman art to put any museum on the map. This floor has nothing from Pompeii; its highlight is the Farnese Collection, a grand hall of huge, bright, and wonderfully restored statues excavated from Rome’s Baths of Caracalla. Peruse the larger-than-life statues filling the hall. They were dug up in the 1540s at the behest of Alessandro Farnese (by then Pope Paul III) while he was building the family palace on the Campo dei Fiori in Rome. His main purpose in excavating the baths was to scavenge quality building stone. The sculptures were a nice extra and helped the palace come in under budget on decorations. In the 1700s, the collection ended up in the hands of Charles, the Bourbon king of Naples (whose mother was a Farnese). His son, the next king, had it brought to Naples.
• Quick—look down to the left end of the hall. There’s a woman being tied to a snorting bull.
The tangled Toro Farnese tells a thrilling Greek myth. At 13 feet, it’s the tallest ancient marble group ever found, and the largest intact statue from antiquity. A third-century A.D. copy of a lost bronze Hellenistic original, it was carved out of one piece of marble. Michelangelo and others “restored” it at the pope’s request—meaning that they integrated surviving bits into a new work. Panels on the wall show which pieces were actually carved by Michelangelo (in blue on the chart): the head of the woman in back, the torso of the aunt under the bull, and the dog. (Imagine how the statue would stand out if it were thoughtfully lit and not surrounded by white walls.)
Here’s the tragic story behind the statue: Once upon an ancient Greek time, King Lycus was bewitched by Dirce. He abandoned his pregnant wife, Antiope (standing regally in the background). The single mom gave birth to twin boys (shown here). When they grew up, they killed their deadbeat dad and tied Dirce to the horns of a bull to be bashed against a mountain. Captured in marble, the action is thrilling: cape flailing, dog snarling, hooves in the air. You can almost hear the bull snorting. And in the back, Antiope oversees this harsh ancient justice with satisfaction.
At the opposite end of the hall stands the Farnese Hercules. The great Greek hero is exhausted. He leans wearily on his club (draped with his lion skin) and bows his head. He’s just finished the daunting Eleventh Labor, having traveled the world, fought men and gods, freed Prometheus from his rock, and carried Atlas’ weight of the world on his shoulders. Now he’s returned with the prize: the golden apples of the gods, which he cups behind his back. But, after all that, he’s just been told he has to return the apples and do one final labor: descend into hell itself. Oh, man.
The 10-foot colossus is a third-century A.D. Roman marble copy (signed by “Glykon”) of a fourth-century B.C. Greek bronze original (probably by Lysippos). The statue was enormously famous in its day. Dozens of copies—some marble, some bronze—have been found in Roman villas and baths. This version was unearthed in Rome’s Baths of Caracalla in 1546, along with the Toro Farnese.
The Farnese Hercules was equally famous in the 16th-18th centuries. Tourists flocked to Rome to admire it, art students studied it from afar in prints, Louis XIV made a copy for Versailles, and petty nobles everywhere put small-scale knock-offs in their gardens. This curly-haired version of Hercules became the modern world’s image of the Greek hero.
• Backtrack to the main entry hall, then head up to the mezzanine level (turning left at the lion).
Most of these mosaics—of animals, musicians, and geometric designs—were taken from Pompeii’s House of the Faun (see here). Walk into the third room and look for the 20-inch-high statue in a freestanding glass case: the house’s delightful centerpiece, the Dancing Faun. This rare surviving Greek bronze statue (from the fourth century B.C.) is surrounded by some of the best mosaics of that age.
A museum highlight, just beyond the statue, is the grand Battle of Alexander, a second-century B.C. copy of the original Greek fresco, done a century earlier. It decorated a floor in the House of the Faun and was found intact; the damage you see occurred as this treasure was moved from Pompeii to the king’s collection here. Alexander (left side of the scene, with curly hair and sideburns) is about to defeat the Persians under Darius (central figure, in chariot with turban and beard). This pivotal victory allowed Alexander to quickly overrun much of Asia (331 B.C.). Alexander is the only one without a helmet...a confident master of the battlefield while everyone else is fighting for their lives, eyes bulging with fear. Notice how the horses, already in retreat, add to the scene’s propaganda value. Notice also the shading and perspective, which Renaissance artists would later work so hard to accomplish. (A modern reproduction of the mosaic is now back in Pompeii, at the House of the Faun.)
Farther on, the Secret Room (Gabinetto Segreto) contains a sizable assortment of erotic frescoes, well-hung pottery, and perky statues that once decorated bedrooms, meeting rooms, brothels, and even shops at Pompeii and Herculaneum. These bawdy statues and frescoes—many of them once displayed in Pompeii’s grandest houses—were entertainment for guests. (By the time they made it to this museum, in 1819, the frescoes could be viewed only with permission from the king—see the letters in the glass case just outside the door.) The Roman nobles commissioned the wildest scenes imaginable. Think of them as ancient dirty jokes.
At the entrance, you’re enthusiastically greeted by big stone penises that once projected over Pompeii’s doorways. A massive phallus was not necessarily a sexual symbol, but a magical amulet used against the “evil eye.” It symbolized fertility, happiness, good luck, riches, straight A’s, and general well-being.
Circulating counterclockwise through this section, look for the following: a faun playfully pulling the sheet off a beautiful woman, only to be grossed out by a hermaphrodite’s plumbing (perhaps the original “Mamma mia!”; #12); horny pygmies from Africa in action (#27); a toga with an embarrassing bulge (#34); a particularly high-quality statue of a goat and a satyr illustrating an act of sodomy (#36); and, watching over it all with remarkable aplomb, Venus, the patron goddess of Pompeii (#39).
The back room is furnished and decorated the way an ancient brothel might have been. The 10 frescoes on the wall functioned as both a menu of services offered and as a kind of Kama Sutra of sex positions. The glass cases contain more phallic art.
• So, now that your travel buddy is finally showing a little interest in art...finish up your visit by climbing the stairs to the top floor.
At the top of the stairs, go through the center door to enter a grand, empty hall. This was the great hall of the university (17th and 18th centuries) until the building became the royal museum in 1777. Walk to the center. The sundial (from 1791) still works. Look up to the far-right corner of the hall and find the tiny pinhole. At noon (13:00 in summer), a ray of sun enters the hall and strikes the sundial, showing the time of the year...if you know your zodiac.
To your left, you’ll see a door marked affreschi. This leads to eight rooms showing off the museum’s impressive and well-described collection of (non-erotic) frescoes taken from the walls of Pompeii villas. Pompeiians loved to decorate their homes with scenes from mythology (Hercules’ labors, Venus and Mars in love), landscapes, everyday market scenes, and faux architecture. Continue around this wing counterclockwise (with the courtyard on your left) through rooms of artifacts found at Pompeii. At the far end is a scale model of Pompeii as excavated in 1879 (plastic di Pompeii). Another model (on the wall) shows the site in 2004, after more excavations.
• Eventually you’ll end up back in the great hall.
Step out to the top landing of the staircase you climbed earlier. Turn left and go down, then up, 16 steps and into the wing labeled La Villa dei Papiri. This exhibition shows off artifacts (particularly bronze statues) from the Herculaneum holiday home of Julius Caesar’s father-in-law. In the second room (numbered CXVI), look into the lifelike blue eyes of the intense Corridore (athletes), bent on doing their best. The Five Dancers, with their inlaid-ivory eyes and graceful poses, decorated a portico. The next room (CXVII) has more fine works: Resting Hermes (with his tired little heel wings) is taking a break. Nearby, the Drunken Faun (singing and snapping his fingers to the beat, a wineskin at his side) is clearly living for today—true to the carpe diem preaching of the Epicurean philosophy. Caesar’s father-in-law was a fan of Epicurean philosophy, and his library—containing 2,000 papyrus scrolls—supported his outlook. Back by the entrance, check out the plans of the villa, and in the side room, see how the half-burned scrolls were unrolled and (with luck) read after excavation in the 1750s.
• Return to the ground floor. The exit hall (right) leads around the museum courtyard and to the gift shop.
For extra credit on your way out, find Doriforo. He was last spotted on the right as you walk down the exit hall. (If he’s been moved, ask a guard, “Dov’è il Doriforo?”) This seven-foot-tall “spear-carrier” (the literal translation of doriforo) just stands there, as if holding a spear. What’s the big deal about this statue, which looks like so many others? It’s a marble replica made by the Romans of one of the most-copied statues of antiquity, a fifth-century B.C. bronze Greek original by Polyclitus. This copy once stood in a Pompeii gym, where it inspired ancient athletes by showing the ideal proportions of Greek beauty. So full of motion, and so realistic in its contrapposto pose (weight on one foot), the Doriforo would later inspire Donatello and Michelangelo, helping to trigger the Renaissance. And so the glories of ancient Pompeii, once buried and forgotten, live on today.
(See “ A Slice of Neapolitan Life” map, here.)
This self-guided walk takes you from the Archaeological Museum through the heart of town and back to Centrale Station. Allow at least three hours, plus time for pizza and sightseeing stops. If you’re in a rush, do it in half the time by walking briskly and skipping Part 2.
Naples, a living medieval city, is its own best sight. Couples artfully make love on Vespas surrounded by more fights and smiles per cobblestone than anywhere else in Italy. Rather than seeing Naples as a list of sights, visit its one great museum and then capture its essence by taking this walk through the core of the city.
(See “ A Slice of Neapolitan Life” map, here.)
The first two parts of this walk are a mostly straight one-mile ramble down a fine boulevard (with a few colorful detours) to the waterfront at Piazza del Plebiscito. Your starting point is the Archaeological Museum (at the top of Piazza Cavour, Metro: Cavour or Museo; for a self-guided tour of the museum, see earlier). As you stroll, remember that here in Naples, red traffic lights are considered “decorations.” When crossing a street, try to tag along with a native.
• From the door of the Archaeological Museum, cross the street, veer right, and pass through the fancy mall.
Galleria Principe di Napoli: This was named for the first male child of the royal Savoy family, the Prince of Naples. Walk directly through it, enjoying this fine shopping gallery from the late 19th century, similar to those popular in Paris and London. This is “Liberty Style,” Italy’s version of Art Nouveau (named for a British department store) that was in vogue at a time when Naples was nicknamed the “Paris of the South.” Parisian artist Edgar Degas left Paris to adopt Naples—which he actually considered more cosmopolitan and sophisticated—as his hometown.
• Leaving the gallery through the opposite end, walk one block downhill. At Via Conte di Ruvo, head left, passing the fine Bellini Theater (also in the Liberty Style). After one block, turn right on Via Costantinopoli, continuing directly downhill to Piazza Bellini. As you walk, look up to enjoy architecture built in the late 19th century, when Naples was the last stop on Romantic Age travelers’ Grand Tour of Europe. (From a tourism perspective, Sorrento only rose with the cultural and economic fall of Naples in the decades following Italian independence, around the early 20th century.)
Soon you’ll run into the ragtag urban park called...
Piazza Bellini: Walking between columns of two grand churches, suddenly you’re in neighborhood Napoli. A statue of Vincenzo Bellini marks the center of Piazza Bellini. It’s dedicated to the Sicilian opera composer who worked here in the early 1800s. Survey the many balconies—and the people who use them as a “backyard” in this densely packed city. The apartment flats were originally the palaces of noble families, as indicated by the stately family crests above grand doorways. Look down below the square to see the ruined Greek walls: tuff blocks without mortar. This was the wall, and you’re standing on land that was outside of the town. You can see the street level from the fifth century B.C., when Neapolis—literally, “the new city”—was founded. For 2,500 years, laundry has blown in the breeze right here.
• Walk 30 yards downhill. Stop at the horseshoe-shaped Port’Alba gate (on the right). Spin slowly 360 degrees and take in the scene. The proud tile across the street shows Piazza Bellini circa 1890. Learn to ignore graffiti (as the locals do). Pass through the gate, and stroll past the book stalls down Via Port’Alba to the next big square...
Piazza Dante: This square is marked by a statue of Dante, the medieval poet. Fittingly, half the square is devoted to bookstores. Old Dante looks out over an urban area that was once grand, then chaotic, and is now slowly becoming grand again.
While this square feels perfectly Italian to me, for many Neapolitans it represents the repression of the central Italian state. When Napoleon was defeated, Naples briefly became its own independent kingdom. But within a few decades of Italian unification, in 1861, Naples went from being a thriving cultural and political capital to a provincial town, its money used to help establish the industrial strength of the north, its dialect considered backward, and its bureaucrats transferred to Rome.
Originally, a statue of a Spanish Bourbon king stood in the square. (The grand orange-and-gray building is typical of Bourbon structures from that period.) But with the unification of Italy, the king, symbolic of Naples’ colonial subjugation, was replaced by Dante, the father of the unified Italian language—a strong symbol of nationalism (and yet another form of subjugation).
The Neapolitan people are survivors. A long history of corrupt and greedy colonial overlords (German, Norman, French, Austrian, and Spanish) has taught Neapolitans to deal creatively with authority. Many credit this aspect of Naples’ past for the strength of organized crime here.
Across the street, Caffè Mexico (at #86) is an institution known for its espresso, which is served already sweetened—ask for senza zucchero if you don’t want sugar (pay first, then take receipt to the counter and hand it over). Most Italians agree that Neapolitan coffee is the best anywhere.
• Walk downhill on...
Via Toledo: The long, straight street heading downhill from Piazza Dante is Naples’ principal shopping drag. It originated as a military road built under Spanish rule (hence the name) in the 16th century. Via Toledo skirted the old town wall to connect the Spanish military headquarters (now the museum where you started this walk) with the Royal Palace (down by the bay, where you’re heading). As you stroll, peek into lovely atriums, an ancient urban design feature providing a break from the big street.
After a couple of hundred yards, you’ll reach Piazza Sette Settembre. In 1860, from the white marble balcony of the Neoclassical building overlooking the square, the famous revolutionary Giuseppe Garibaldi declared Italy united and Victor Emmanuel II its first king. Only in 1870, a decade later, was the dream of Italian unity fully realized when Rome fell to unification forces.
• Continue straight on Via Toledo. About three blocks below Piazza Dante and a block past Piazza Sette Settembre, you’ll come to Via Maddaloni, which marks the start of the long, straight, narrow street nicknamed...
Spaccanapoli: Before crossing the street—whose name translates as “split Naples”—look left (toward the train station). Then look right (to see San Martino hill rising steeply above the center). Since ancient times, this thin street has bisected the city. It changes names several times: Via Maddaloni (as it’s called here), Via B. Croce, Via S. Biagio dei Librai, and Via Vicaria Vecchia. We’ll return to this intersection later.
• If you want to abbreviate this walk, turn left here and skip ahead to Part 3. Part 2, described next, is a bit of a detour, and requires backtracking uphill (or a short taxi ride) later. But if you have time, it’s worth the effort.
(See “ A Slice of Neapolitan Life” map, here.)
• We’ll detour off of Via Toledo for just a couple of blocks (rejoining it later). At the Spaccanapoli intersection, go right (toward the church facade on the hill, up Via Pasquale Scura). After about 100 yards, you hit a busy intersection. Stop. You’re on one of Naples’ most colorful open-air market streets...
Via Pignasecca Market: Snoop around from here if you are so inclined. Then, turn left down Via Pignasecca and stroll this colorful strip. You’ll pass meat and fish stalls, produce stands, street-food vendors, and much more. This is a taste of Naples’ famous Spanish Quarter, which we’ll experience more of later in this walk.
• Via Pignasecca meets back up with Via Toledo at the square called...
Piazza Carità: This square, built for an official visit by Hitler to Mussolini in 1938, is full of stern, straight, obedient lines. The big building belonged to an insurance company. (For the best example of fascist architecture in town, take a slight detour from here: With your back to Via Toledo, leave Piazza Carità downhill on the right-hand corner and walk a block to the Poste e Telegrafi building. There you’ll see several government buildings with stirring reliefs singing the praises of lobotomized workers and a totalitarian society.)
In Naples—long a poor and rough city—rather than being heroic, people learn from the cradle the art of survival. The modern memorial statue in the center of the square celebrates Salvo d’Acquisto, a rare hometown hero. In 1943, he was executed after falsely confessing to sabotage...in order to save 22 fellow Italian soldiers from a Nazi revenge massacre.
• From Piazza Carità, continue south down Via Toledo for a few blocks, looking to your left for more...
Fascist Architecture (Banks): You can’t miss the two big, blocky bank buildings. First comes the chalky-white BNL Bank. A bit farther down, past the Metro, imagine trying to rob the even more imposing Banco di Napoli (Via Toledo 178). Step across the street and check out its architecture: typical fascist arches and reliefs, built to celebrate the bank’s 400th anniversary (est. 1539—how old is your bank?).
The street here was pedestrianized after the Toledo Metro stop opened in 2012. Now the street is even more popular for strolling, property values have risen, and international brands such as H&M and the Disney Store have moved in.
• On the next block (at #184) is the...
Banca Intesa Sanpaolo: This fills an older palace—take a free peek at the opulent atrium. In the entry hall, you can buy a ticket for the Galleria d’Italia Palazzo Zevallos Stigliano, a small collection located in the upper two floors. The gallery’s only piece worth seeing—on the second floor—is a great late Caravaggio painting. The Martyrdom of Saint Ursula shows a terrible scene: His marriage proposal rejected, the king of the Huns shoots an arrow into Ursula’s chest. Blood spurts, Ursula is stunned but accepts her destiny sweetly, and Caravaggio himself—far right, his last self-portrait—screams to symbolize the rejection of evil. The rest of the second floor holds opulent chandeliered apartments, a few Neapolitan landscapes, and little else. The first floor has temporary exhibits (€4, Tue-Sun 10:00-18:00, closed Mon; entry includes audioguide, a look at old Naples paintings, and a fine WC; Via Toledo 185, tel. 800-454-229, www.palazzozevallos.com).
• Feeling bold? From here, side-trip uphill a couple of blocks into the...
Spanish Quarter: This is a classic world of basso (low) living. The streets—which were laid out in the 16th century for the Spanish military barracks outside the city walls—are unbelievably narrow (and cool in summer), and the buildings rise five stories high. In such tight quarters, life—flirting, fighting, playing, and loving—happens in the road. This is the cliché of life in Naples, as shown in so many movies. The Spanish Quarter is Naples at its most characteristic. The shopkeepers are friendly, and the mopeds are bold (watch out). Concerned locals will tug on their lower eyelids, warning you to be wary. Hungry? Pop into a grocery shop and ask the clerk to make you his best prosciutto-and-mozzarella sandwich (the price should be about €4).
• Return to Via Toledo and work your way down. Near the bottom of the street, on the right at #275, is Pintauro, a takeaway bakery famous for its sfogliatelle. These classic, ricotta-filled Neapolitan pastries are often served warm from the oven and make a tasty €2 treat.
Just beyond, on the right, notice the station for the Centrale funicular. If you have extra time and enjoy city views, this can take you sweat-free up to the top of San Martino, the hill with a fortress and a monastery/museum looming over town (see here for details on fortress and museum). Across the street is the impressive Galleria Umberto I—but don’t go in now, as you’ll see it in a minute from the other side.
For now, just keep heading down the main drag and through the smaller Piazza Trieste e Trento to the immense...
Piazza del Plebiscito: This square celebrates the 1861 vote (plebiscito, plebiscite) in which Naples chose to join Italy. Dominating the top of the square is the Church of San Francesco di Paola, with its Pantheon-inspired dome and broad, arcing colonnades. If it’s open, step inside to ogle the vast interior—a Neoclassical re-creation of one of ancient Rome’s finest buildings (free, daily 8:30-12:00 & 16:00-19:00).
• Opposite is the...
Royal Palace (Palazzo Reale): Having housed Spanish, French, and even Italian royalty, this building displays statues of all those who stayed here. Look for eight kings in the niches, each from a different dynasty (left to right): Norman, German, French, Spanish, Spanish, Spanish, French (Napoleon’s brother-in-law), and, finally, Italian—Victor Emmanuel II, King of Savoy. The statues were done at the request of V. E. II’s son, so his dad is the most dashing of the group. While you could consider touring the interior, it’s relatively unimpressive (described under “Sights in Naples,” later).
• Continue 50 yards past the Royal Palace (toward the trees) to enjoy a...
Fine Harbor View: While boats busily serve Capri and Sorrento, Mount Vesuvius smolders ominously in the distance. Look back to see the vast “Bourbon red” palace—its color inspired by Pompeii. The hilltop above Piazza del Plebiscito is San Martino, with its Carthusian monastery-turned-museum and Castle of St. Elmo (remember, the Centrale funicular to the top is just across the square and up Via Toledo). This street continues to Naples’ romantic harborfront—the fishermen’s quarter (Borgo Marinaro)—a fortified island connected to the mainland by a stout causeway, with its fanciful, ancient Castel dell’Ovo (Egg Castle) and trendy harborside restaurants. Farther along the harborfront stretches the Lungomare promenade and Santa Lucia district. (The long harborfront promenade, Via Francesco Caracciolo, is a delightful people-watching scene on balmy nights.)
• Head back through the piazza and pop into...
Gran Caffè Gambrinus: This coffee house, facing the piazza, takes you back to the elegance of 1860. It’s a classic place to sample a crispy sfogliatella pastry, or perhaps the mushroom-shaped, rum-soaked bread-like cakes called babà, which come in a huge variety. Stand at the bar (banco), pay double to sit (tavola), or just wander around as you imagine the café buzzing with the ritzy intellectuals, journalists, and artsy bohemian types who munched on babà here during Naples’ 19th-century heyday (daily 7:00-24:00, Piazza del Plebiscito 1, tel. 081-417-582, http://grancaffegambrinus.com/en).
• A block away, tucked behind the palace, you can peek inside the Neoclassical...
Teatro di San Carlo: Built in 1737, 41 years before Milan’s La Scala, this is Europe’s oldest opera house and Italy’s second-most-respected (after La Scala). The theater burned down in 1816, and was rebuilt within the year. Guided 35-minute visits in English basically just show you the fine auditorium with its 184 boxes—each with a big mirror to reflect the candlelight (€6; tours Mon-Sat at 10:30, 11:30, 12:30, 14:30, 15:30, and 16:30; Sun at 10:30, 11:30, and 12:30; tel. 081-797-2468, www.teatrosancarlo.it).
Beyond Teatro di San Carlo and the Royal Palace is the huge, harborfront Castel Nuovo, which houses government bureaucrats and the Civic Museum. It feels like a mostly empty shell, with a couple of dusty halls of Neapolitan art, but the views over the bay from the upper terraces are impressive (€6, Mon-Sat 9:00-19:00, closed Sun, last entry one hour before closing, tel. 081-795-7722, www.comune.napoli.it).
Cross the street from Teatro di San Carlo and go through the tall yellow arch into the Victorian iron and glass of the 100-year-old shopping mall, Galleria Umberto I. It was built in 1892 to reinvigorate the district after a devastating cholera epidemic occurred here. Gawk up, then walk left to bring you back out on Via Toledo.
• For Part 3 of this walk, double back up Via Toledo to Piazza Carità, veering right (just above the first big fascist-style building we saw earlier) on Via Morgantini through Piazza Monteoliveto. Cross the busy street, then angle up Calata Trinità Maggiore to the fancy column at the top of the hill. (To avoid the backtracking and uphill walk, catch a €10 taxi to the Church of Gesù Nuovo—JAY-zoo noo-OH-voh.)
You’re back at the straight-as-a-Greek-arrow Spaccanapoli, formerly the main thoroughfare of the Greek city of Neapolis.
• Stop at...
Piazza Gesù Nuovo: This square is marked by a towering 18th-century Baroque monument to the Counter-Reformation. Although the Jesuit order was powerful in Naples because of its Spanish heritage, locals never attacked Protestants here with the full fury of the Spanish Inquisition.
If you’d like, you can visit two bulky old churches, starting with the dark, fortress-like, 17th-century Church of Gesù Nuovo, followed by the simpler Church of Santa Chiara (in the courtyard across the street). Both are described in more detail later, under “Sights in Naples.”
• After touring the churches, continue along the main drag. Since this is a university district, you’ll see lots of students and bookstores. This neighborhood is also famously superstitious. Look for incense-burning women with carts full of good-luck charms for sale.
Farther down Spaccanapoli—passing Palazzo Venezia, the embassy of Venice to Naples when both were independent powers—you’ll see the next square...
Piazza San Domenico Maggiore: This square is marked by an ornate 17th-century monument built to thank God for ending the plague. From this square, detour left along the right side of the castle-like church, then follow yellow signs, taking the first right and walking one block to the remarkable Cappella Sansevero. This Baroque chapel is well worth visiting (described later, under “Sights in Naples”).
• After touring the chapel, return to Via B. Croce (a.k.a. Spaccanapoli), turn left, and continue your cultural scavenger hunt. At the intersection of Via Nilo, find the...
Statue of the Nile (on the left): A reminder of the multiethnic make-up of Greek Neapolis, this statue is in what was the Egyptian quarter. Locals like to call this statue The Body of Naples, with the overflowing cornucopia symbolizing the abundance of their fine city. (I once asked a Neapolitan man to describe the local women, who are famous for their beauty, in one word. He replied simply, “Abundant.”) This intersection is considered the center of old Naples.
• Directly opposite the statue, inside of Bar Nilo, is the...
“Chapel of Maradona”: The small “chapel” on the wall is dedicated to Diego Maradona, a soccer star who played for Naples in the 1980s. Locals consider soccer almost a religion, and this guy was practically a deity. You can even see a “hair of Diego” and a teardrop from the city when he went to another team for more money. Unfortunately, his reputation has since been sullied by problems he’s had with organized crime, drugs, and police. Perhaps inspired by Maradona’s example, the coffee bar has posted a quadrilingual sign (though, strangely, not in English) threatening that those who take a picture without buying a cup of coffee may find their camera damaged...Capisce?
• As you continue, you’ll begin to see shops selling...
Presepi (Nativity Scenes): Just as many Americans keep an eye out year-round for Christmas-tree ornaments, Italians regularly add pieces to the family presepe, the centerpiece of their holiday decorations. Stop after a few blocks at the tiny square, where Via San Gregorio Armeno leads left into a colorful district with the highest concentration of shops selling fantastic presepi and their tiny components, including figurines caricaturing local politicians and celebrities. Also in this neighborhood is the underground Napoli Sotteranea archaeological site (described later, under “Sights in Naples”).
• Back on Spaccanapoli, as Via B. Croce becomes Via S. Biagio dei Librai, notice the...
Gold and Silver Shops: Some say stolen jewelry ends up here, is melted down immediately, and gets resold in some other form as soon as it cools. At #95, find the Compro Oro (“I Buy Gold”) shop. This is one of many pawn shops that have appeared in concert with Italy’s economic tough times. At #81, the Ospedale delle Bambole (Doll Hospital) heals dolls that have been loved to pieces, and also sells restored classics.
• Cross busy Via Duomo. If you have time and aren’t already churched out, consider detouring five minutes north (left) up Via Duomo to visit Naples’ Duomo; just around the corner is the Pio Monte della Misericordia Church, with a fine Caravaggio painting (both described later, under “Sights in Naples”). You’re also close to the Via Tribunali and several recommended pizzerie (see “Eating in Naples,” later). Afterward, continue straight along Via Vicaria Vecchia. As you stroll, ponder Naples’ vibrant...
Street Life, Past and Present: Here along Via Vicaria Vecchia, the street and side-street scenes intensify. The area is said to be a center of the Camorra (organized crime), but as a tourist, you won’t notice. Paint a picture with these thoughts: Naples has the most intact street plan of any surviving ancient Greek or Roman city. Imagine this city during those times (and retain these images as you visit Pompeii), with streetside shop fronts that close up after dark, and private homes on upper floors. What you see today is just one more page in a 2,000-year-old story of a city: all kinds of meetings, beatings, and cheatings; kisses, near misses, and little-boy pisses.
You name it, it occurs right on the streets today, as it has since ancient times. People ooze from crusty corners. Black-and-white death announcements add to the clutter on the walls. Widows sell cigarettes from buckets. For a peek behind the scenes in the shade of wet laundry, venture down a few side streets. Buy two carrots as a gift for the woman on the fifth floor, if she’ll lower her bucket to pick them up. The neighborhood action seems best at about 18:00.
A few blocks on, at the tiny fenced-in triangle of greenery, hang out for a few minutes to just observe the crazy motorbike action and teen scene.
• From here, veer right onto Via Forcella (which leads to the busy boulevard that takes you to Centrale Station). A block down, a tiny, fenced-in traffic island protects a chunk of the ancient Greek wall of Neapolis. Turn right here on Via Pietro Colletta, walk 40 yards, and step into the North Pole, at the...
Polo Nord Gelateria: The oldest gelateria in Naples has had four generations of family working here since 1931. Before you order, sample a few flavors, including their bacio or “kiss” flavor (chocolate and hazelnut)—all are made fresh daily. Low-sugar and soy ice cream are also available (Via Pietro Colletta 41). Via Pietro Colletta leads past two of Napoli’s most competitive pizzerias (see “Eating in Naples,” later) to Corso Umberto I.
• Turn left on the grand boulevard-like Corso Umberto I. From here to Centrale Station, it’s at least a 10-minute walk (if you’re tired, hop on a bus; they all go to the station). To finish the walk, continue on Corso Umberto I—past a gauntlet of purse/CD/sunglasses salesmen and shady characters hawking stolen mobile phones—to the vast, ugly Piazza Garibaldi. On the far side is the station. You made it.
Churches on or near Spaccanapoli
Porta Nolana Open-Air Fish Market
▲San Martino Carthusian Monastery and Museum (Certosa e Museo di San Martino)
These churches are linked—in this order—on Part 3 of my self-guided walk, earlier.
This church’s unique pyramid-grill facade survives from a fortified 15th-century noble palace. Step inside for a brilliant Neapolitan Baroque interior. The second chapel on the right features a much-adored statue of St. Giuseppe Moscati (1880-1927), a Christian doctor famous for helping the poor. In 1987, Moscati became the first modern doctor to be canonized. Sit and watch a steady stream of Neapolitans taking turns to kiss and touch the altar, then hold the good doctor’s highly polished hand.
Continue on to the third chapel and enter the Sale Moscati. Look high on the walls of this long room to see hundreds of “Ex Votos”—tiny red-and-silver plaques of thanksgiving for prayers answered with the help of St. Moscati (each has a symbol of the ailment cured). Naples’ practice of using Ex Votos, while incorporated into its Catholic rituals, goes back to its pagan Greek roots. Rooms from Moscati’s nearby apartment are on display, and a glass case shows possessions and photos of the great doctor. As you leave the Sale Moscati, notice the big bomb casing that hangs in the left corner. It fell through the church’s dome in 1943, but caused almost no damage...yet another miracle.
Cost and Hours: Free, daily 7:30-13:00 & 16:00-19:00, Piazza del Gesù Nuovo, www.gesunuovo.it.
Dating from the 14th century, this church is from a period of French royal rule under the Angevin dynasty. Consider the stark contrast between this church (Gothic) and the Gesù Nuovo (Baroque), across the street. Inside, notice the huge inlaid-marble Angevin coat of arms on the floor. The faded Trinity on the back wall (on the right as you face the door), shows a dove representing the Holy Spirit between the heads of God the Father and Christ (c. 1414). This is an example of the fine frescoes that once covered the walls. Most were stuccoed over during Baroque times or destroyed in 1943 by Allied bombs. The altar is adorned with four finely carved Gothic tombs of Angevin kings. A chapel stacked with Bourbon royalty is just to the right.
Cost and Hours: Free, daily 7:30-13:00 & 16:30-20:00, Piazza del Gesù Nuovo. Its tranquil cloistered courtyard, around back, is not worth its €6 entry fee.
This small chapel is a Baroque explosion mourning the body of Christ, who lies on a soft pillow under an incredibly realistic veil. It’s also the personal chapel of Raimondo de Sangro, an eccentric Freemason, containing his tomb and the tombs of his family. Like other 18th-century Enlightenment figures, Raimondo was a wealthy man of letters, scientist and inventor, and patron of the arts—and he was also a grand master of the Freemasons of the Kingdom of Naples. His chapel—filled with Freemason symbolism—is a complex ensemble, with statues representing virtues such as self-control, religious zeal, and the Freemason philosophy of freedom through enlightenment. Though it’s a pricey private enterprise, the chapel is worth a visit.
Cost and Hours: €7, buy tickets at office at the corner, Mon and Wed-Sat 9:30-18:30, Sun 9:30-14:00, closed Tue, last entry 20 minutes before closing, no photos, Via de Sanctis 19, tel. 081-551-8470, www.museosansevero.it. Good English explanations are posted throughout; when you buy your ticket, pick up the free floor plan, which identifies each of the statues lining the nave.
Visiting the Chapel: Study the incredible Veiled Christ in the center. Carved out of marble, it’s like no other statue I’ve seen (by Giuseppe “Howdeedoodat” Sammartino, 1753). The Christian message (Jesus died for our salvation) is accompanied by a Freemason message (the veil represents how the body and ego are obstacles to real spiritual freedom). As you walk from Christ’s feet to his head, notice how the expression on Jesus’ face goes from suffering to peace.
Raimondo’s mom and dad are buried on either side of the main altar. To the right of the altar, marking his father’s tomb, a statue representing Despair or Disillusion struggles with a marble rope net (carved out of a single piece of stone), symbolic of a troubled mind. The flames on the head of the winged boy represent human intellect—more Freemason symbolism, showing how knowledge frees the human mind. To the left of the main altar is a statue of Modesty, marking the tomb of Raimondo’s mother (who died after his birth, and was only 20). The veiled woman fingers a broken tablet, symbolizing an interrupted life.
Raimondo de Sangro himself lies buried in a side altar (on the right). Among his inventions was the deep-green pigment used on the ceiling fresco. The inlaid M. C. Escher-esque maze on the floor around de Sangro’s tomb is another Freemason reminder of how the quest for knowledge gets you out of the maze of life. This tilework once covered the floor of the entire chapel.
Your Sansevero finale is downstairs: two mysterious...skeletons. Perhaps another of the mad inventor’s fancies: Inject a corpse with a fluid to fossilize the veins so that they’ll survive the body’s decomposition. While that’s the legend, investigations have shown that the veins were artificial, and the models were created to illustrate how the circulatory system works.
Naples’ historic cathedral, built by imported French Anjou kings in the 14th century, boasts a breathtaking Neo-Gothic facade. Step into the vast interior to see the mix of styles along the side chapels—from pointy Gothic arches to rounded Renaissance ones to gilded Baroque decor.
Cost and Hours: Free, Mon-Sat 8:30-13:30 & 14:30-20:00, Sun 8:30-13:30 & 16:30-19:30, Via Duomo.
Visiting the Church: Explore the two largest side-chapels—each practically a church in its own right. On the left, the Chapel of St. Restituta stands on the site of the original, early-Christian church that predated the cathedral (at the far end, you can pay €1.50 to see its sixth-century baptismal font under mosaics and go downstairs to see its even earlier foundations; chapel open Mon-Sat 8:30-12:30 & 14:30-18:30, Sun 8:30-13:00, last entry 30 minutes before closing). On the right is the Chapel of San Gennaro—dedicated to the beloved patron saint of Naples—decorated with silver busts of centuries of bishops, and seven paintings done on bronze.
Back out in the main nave, the altar at the front is ringed by carved wooden seats, filled three times a year by clergy to witness the Miracle of the Blood. Thousands of Neapolitans cram into this church for a peek at two tiny vials with the dried blood of St. Gennaro. As the clergy roots—or even jeers—for the miracle to occur, the blood temporarily liquefies. Neapolitans take this ritual with deadly seriousness, and believe that if the blood remains solid, it’s terrible luck for the city. Sure enough, on the rare occasion that the miracle fails, locals can point to a terrible event soon after—such as an earthquake or an eruption of Mount Vesuvius.
The stairs beneath the altar take you to a crypt with the relics of St. Gennaro and (across the room) a statue of the bishop who rescued the relics from a rival town and returned them to Naples.
Art lovers come to this small church (near the Duomo, and run by a charitable foundation) to appreciate one of the best works by Caravaggio, The Seven Works of Mercy, which hangs over the main altar. In one crowded canvas, the great early-Baroque artist illustrates seven virtues: burying the dead (the man carrying a corpse by the ankles), visiting the imprisoned, feeding the hungry (Pero breastfeeding her starving father—a scene from a famous Roman story), sheltering the homeless (a pilgrim on the Camino de Santiago, with his floppy hat, negotiates with an innkeeper), caring for the sick, clothing the naked (St. Martin offers part of his cloak to the injured man in the foreground), and giving drink to the thirsty (Samson chugs from a jawbone in the background)—all of them set in a dark Neapolitan alley and watched over by Mary, Jesus, and a pair of angels. Caravaggio painted this work in Naples in 1607, while in exile from Rome, where he had been sentenced to death for killing a man in a duel. Your ticket also lets you in to the foundation’s pleasant upper-floor museum, with some minor Neapolitan paintings.
Cost and Hours: €7, includes audioguide, Thu-Tue 9:00-14:30, closed Wed, last entry 30 minutes before closing, Via dei Tribunali 253, tel. 081-446-944, www.piomontedellamisericordia.it.
Facing Piazza del Plebiscito, this huge, lavish palace welcomes the public. The palace’s grand Neoclassical staircase leads up to a floor with 30 plush rooms. You’ll follow a one-way route (with some English descriptions) featuring the palace theater, paintings by “the Caravaggio Imitators,” Neapolitan tapestries, fine inlaid-stone tabletops, chandeliers, gilded woodwork, and more. The rooms do feel quite grand, but they lack the personality and sense of importance of Europe’s better palaces. Don’t miss the huge, tapestry-laden Hercules Hall. On the way out, stop into the chapel, with a fantastic Nativity scene—a commotion of 18th-century ceramic figurines.
Cost and Hours: €4, includes painfully dry audioguide, free first Sun of the month, Thu-Tue 9:00-20:00, closed Wed, last entry one hour before closing, tel. 848-800-288.
This archaeological site, a manmade underground maze of passageways and ruins from Greek and Roman times, can only be toured with a guide. You’ll descend 121 steps under the modern city to explore two different underground areas. One is the old Greek tuff quarry used to build the city of Neapolis, which was later converted into an immense cistern by the Romans. The other is an excavated portion of the Greco-Roman theater that once seated 6,000 people. It’s clear that this space has been encroached upon by modern development—some current residents’ windows literally look down into the theater ruins. The tour involves a lot of stairs, as well as a long, narrow 20-inch-wide walkway—lit only by candlelight—that uses an ancient water channel (a heavyset person could not comfortably fit through this, and claustrophobes will be miserable). Although there’s not much to actually see, the experience is fascinating and includes a little history from World War II—when the quarry/cistern was turned into a shelter to protect locals from American bombs.
Cost and Hours: €10; includes 1.5-hour tour. Visits in English are offered daily at 10:00, 12:00, 14:00, 16:00, and 18:00. Bring a light sweater. Tel. 081-296-944, www.napolisotterranea.org.
Getting There: The site is at Piazza San Gaetano 68, along Via dei Tribunali. It’s a 10-minute walk from the Archaeological Museum, and just a couple of blocks uphill from Spaccanapoli’s statue of the Nile. The entrance is immediately to the left of the Church of San Paolo Maggiore (look for the Sotterranea signs).
Naples’ fish market squirts and stinks as it has for centuries under the Porta Nolana (gate in the city wall), immediately in front of the Napoli Porta Nolana Circumvesuviana station and four long blocks from Centrale Station. Of the town’s many boisterous outdoor markets, this will net you the most photos and memories. From Piazza Nolana, wander under the medieval gate and take your first left down Vico Sopramuro, enjoying this wild and entirely edible cultural scavenger hunt (Tue-Sun 8:00-14:00, closed Mon).
Two other markets with more clothing and fewer fish are at Piazza Capuana (several blocks northwest of Centrale Station and tumbling down Via Sant’Antonio Abate, Mon-Sat 8:00-18:00, Sun 9:00-13:00) and a similar cobbled shopping zone along Via Pignasecca (just off Via Toledo, west of Piazza Carità, described on here).
Each evening, relaxed and romantic Neapolitans in the mood for a scenic harborside stroll do their vasche (laps) along the inviting Lungomare promenade. To join in this elegant people-watching scene (best after 19:00), stroll about 15 minutes from Piazza del Plebiscito along Via Nazario Sauro.
Detour out along the fortified causeway to poke around Borgo Marinaro (“fishermen’s quarter”), with its striking Castel dell’Ovo and a trendy restaurant scene (see “Eating in Naples,” later), where you can dine amidst yachts with a view of Vesuvius. This is known as the Santa Lucia district because this is where the song “Santa Lucia” was first performed. (The song is probably so famous in America because immigrants from Naples sang it to remember the old country.) Beyond that stretches the Lungomare, along Via Francesco Caracciolo. Taxi home or retrace your steps back to the old center.
MADRE, a museum of contemporary art, displays works by Jeff Koons, Anish Kapoor, Francesco Clemente, and other big names in the art world. Aficionados of modern art consider it one of the better collections in the country. Some descriptions are in English—you’ll need them (€7, free on Mon; Wed-Mon 10:00-19:30, closed Tue, last entry one hour before closing; Via Settembrini 79, tel. 081-292-833, www.madrenapoli.it).
The ultimate view overlooking Naples, its bay, and the volcano is from the hill called San Martino, just above (and west of) the city center. Up top you’ll find a mighty fortress (which charges for entry but offers the best views from its ramparts) and the adjacent monastery-turned-museum. While neither of these sights is exciting in its own right, the views are. And the surrounding neighborhood (especially Piazza Fuga) has a classy “uptown” vibe compared to the gritty city-center streets below. Cheapskates can enjoy the views for free from the benches on the square in front of the monastery.
Getting There: From Via Toledo, the Spanish Quarter gradually climbs up San Martino’s lower slopes, before steep paths take you up the rest of the way. But the easiest way to ascend San Martino is by funicular. Three different funicular lines lead from lower Naples to the hilltop: the Centrale line from near the bottom of Via Toledo, the Montesanto line from the Metro stop of the same name (near the top end of Via Toledo), and the Chiaia line from farther out, near Piazza Amadeo (all three are covered by any regular local transit ticket). Ride any of these three up to the end of the line. All three lines converge within a few blocks at the top of the hill—Centrale and Chiaia wind up at opposite ends of the charming Piazza Fuga, while Montesanto terminates a bit closer to the fortress and museum.
Leaving any of the funiculars, head uphill, carefully tracking the brown signs for Castel S. Elmo and Museo di San Martino (strategically placed escalators make the climb easier). Regardless of where you come up, you’ll pass the Montesanto funicular station—angle right (as you face the station) down Via Pirro Ligorio, and then continue following the signs. You’ll reach the castle first, and then the monastery/museum (both about 10 minutes’ walk from Piazza Fuga).
While it’s little more than an empty husk with a decent modern art museum, this 16th-century, Spanish-built, star-shaped fortress boasts commanding views over the city and the entire Bay of Naples. Buy your ticket at the booth, then ride the elevator up to the upper courtyard and climb up to the ramparts for a slow circle to enjoy the 360-degree views. In the middle of the yard is the likeable little Museo del Novecento, a gallery of works by 20th-century Neapolitan artists (covered by same ticket); the castle also hosts temporary exhibits.
Cost and Hours: €5, open Wed-Mon 9:00-19:00, closed Tue, last entry one hour before closing, Via Tito Angelini 22, tel. 081-229-4401.
The monastery, founded in 1325 and dissolved in the early 1800s, is now a sprawling museum with several parts. The square out front has city views nearly as good as the ones you’ll pay to see from inside, and a few cafés angling for your business.
Cost and Hours: €6, Thu-Tue 8:30-19:30, closed Wed, last entry one hour before closing, audioguide-€5, Largo San Martino 8, tel. 081-229-4502, http://cir.campania.beniculturali.it/museosanmartino/.
Visiting the Monastery and Museum: If you want to tour the place, buy your ticket and head into the complex (which has some English information). Step into the church, a Baroque explosion with beautifully decorated chapels. Around the humble cloister are a variety of museum exhibits. The Naval Museum has nautical paintings, model boats, and giant ceremonial gondolas. In an adjacent hall is an excellent collection of presepi (Nativity scenes), both life-size and miniature, including a spectacular one by Michele Cucinello—the best I’ve seen in this presepi-crazy city. Beyond that is the larger garden cloister, ringed with a painting gallery (with lots of antique maps and artifacts of old Naples), and an entrance to a pretty view terrace.
Another hilltop, about a mile due north from the Archaeological Museum, is home to Naples’ top art museum—the pleasantly uncrowded Museo di Capodimonte. Its three floors of art include works by Raphael, Titian, Caravaggio, and Bellini. While most visitors to Naples prefer to focus on the city’s uniquely vibrant street life, characteristic churches, and remarkable ancient artifacts—and there are better art museums elsewhere in Italy—art lovers with some time to spare may find a visit to Capodimonte worth the trip. While buses #C63 and #R4 run to Capodimonte from Piazza Dante and the Archaeological Museum, it’s easier to take a taxi (about €8-10 from downtown).
Cost and Hours: €7.50, free first Sun of the month, Thu-Tue 8:30-19:30, closed Wed, last entry one hour before closing, Via Miano 2, tel. 081-749-9111.
As an alternative to intense Naples, most travelers prefer to sleep in mellow Sorrento, just over an hour away (see Sorrento chapter). But, if needed, here are a few good options. The prices listed are typical for high season (spring and late fall). In this business-oriented (rather than tourist-oriented) city, prices are particularly soft during the slow summer months (July-Sept).
Many cities in Italy levy a hotel tax of about €2 per person, per night, which must be paid in cash (not included in the rates I’ve quoted). Unless otherwise noted, credit cards are accepted, English is spoken, and breakfast is included. Prices can change without notice; verify the hotel’s current rates online or by email. For the best prices, always book directly with the hotel.
$$$ Decumani Hotel de Charme is a classy oasis tucked away on a residential lane in the very heart of the city, just off Spaccanapoli. While the neighborhood is Naples-dingy, the 22 rooms—filling an elegant 18th-century palace with a gorgeous breakfast room—are an inviting retreat (standard Db-€139, bigger deluxe Db-€20 more, Tb-€159, rates soft—check website for deals, air-con, elevator, free Wi-Fi, Via San Giovanni Maggiore Pignatelli 15—from Spaccanapoli, this lane is one street toward the station from Via Santa Chiara, second floor, tel. 081-551-8188, www.decumani.com, info@decumani.com).
$$$ Hotel Piazza Bellini is a newish hotel with 48 stripped-down-minimalist but comfy rooms surrounding a quiet courtyard. Two blocks below the Archaeological Museum and just off the lively Piazza Bellini, it offers modern sanity in the city center (generally Sb-€120, Db-€170, less if slow, bi-level “superior” Db-€20 more, extra bed-€25, air-con, elevator, free guest computer, free Wi-Fi, Via Santa Maria di Constantinopoli 101, close to Metro: Dante, tel. 081-451-732, www.hotelpiazzabellini.com, info@hotelpiazzabellini.com).
$$$ Chiaja Hotel de Charme, with the same owner as the Decumani (listed earlier), rents 33 rooms on the upscale Via Chiaia pedestrian shopping drag near Piazza del Plebiscito (Sb-€94, smaller standard Db with interior view-€139, bigger Db with view of pedestrian street-€159, air-con, elevator, free Wi-Fi, Via Chiaia 216, first floor, tel. 081-415-555, www.hotelchiaia.it, info@hotelchiaia.it, Pietro Fusella).
$$ Art Resort Galleria Umberto has 15 rooms in two different buildings inside the Umberto I shopping gallery at the bottom of Via Toledo, just off Piazza del Plebiscito. This genteel-feeling place gilds the lily, with an aristocratic setting and decor but older bathrooms. Consider paying €20 extra for a room overlooking the gallery (cheapest non-view Db-€109-120, elevator, air-con, free Wi-Fi, Galleria Umberto 83, fourth floor—ask at booth for coin to operate elevator if needed, tel. 081-497-6224, www.artresortgalleriaumberto.it, info@artresortgalleriaumberto.it).
$$ Hotel Il Convento, with 14 small but comfortable rooms with balconies, is a good choice for those who want to sleep in the gnarly, tight tangle of lanes called the Spanish Quarter—quintessential Naples. While the neighborhood can feel off-putting after dark, it’s not especially unsafe. You’re only a couple of short blocks off the main Via Toledo drag, and heavy-duty windows help block out some—but not all—of the scooter noise and church bells. A rare haven in this characteristic corner of town, it’s in all the guidebooks (small Db-€80, Db-€110, Tb-€120, Qb-€150, €10-20 less if you prepay, air-con, elevator, free Wi-Fi, Via Speranzella 137A, tel. 081-403-977, www.hotelilconvento.com, info@hotelilconvento.com).
Although rates here are cheaper and it’s very handy to the station, this area is relatively inconvenient for sightseeing and dining, less characteristic than the areas described earlier, and can feel unnerving—especially after dark.
$ Grand Hotel Europa, a gem on a seedy street right next to the station, has 89 decent rooms whimsically decorated with not-quite-right reproductions of famous paintings (Sb-€60, Db-€75, Tb-€90, book directly with the hotel and ask for 15 percent Rick Steves discount off these prices or check website for special deals, air-con, elevator, free guest computer, free Wi-Fi, restaurant, Corso Meridionale 14, tel. 081-267-511, www.grandhoteleuropa.com, booking@grandhoteleuropa.com, well-run by Claudio). To find the hotel, exit the station on the north side, past track 5. You’ll turn left and a right around a green Polfer sign, then exit through a gate. The hotel is across the street and a few doors down to the right.
$ Hotel Suite Esedra, with 17 small but tasteful rooms, is affordably priced and located on a tiny square off busy Corso Umberto I, just outside of the station-neighborhood sleaze (Sb-€60, Db-€80, Tb-€110, these prices if you book directly with the hotel and mention this book, air-con, elevator, free Wi-Fi, 10-minute walk from the station at Via Arnaldo Cantani 12—across the Corso from the Church of Santa Maria Egiziaca, tel. 081-287-451, www.hotelsuiteesedranapoli.it, info@hotelsuiteesedranapoli.it, Alessandro).
$ Hotel Potenza offers a rare bit of security and peace right on Piazza Garibaldi, 100 yards in front of the station. Its 26 pleasant rooms have good windows that help block out the bustle (Sb-€50, Db-€65, Tb-€75, Qb-€92, air-con, no elevator, free Wi-Fi, 100 yards in front of the station at Piazza Garibaldi 120, tel. 081-286-330, www.hotelpotenza.com, info@hotelpotenza.com, Valenzano family).
$$ Pinto-Storey Hotel seems a world away from the bustle of the city center. With 16 straightforward rooms in a relatively upscale neighborhood (three Metro stops from the train station), the hotel has an old-time charm (Sb-€78, Db-€98, Tb-€128, best prices if you book direct and mention this book, air-con, fourth floor, elevator, pay Wi-Fi, across the square from Metro line 2’s Amedeo stop at Via Martucci 72, tel. 081-681-260, www.pintostorey.it, info@pintostorey.it).
Naples is the birthplace of pizza. Its pizzerias bake just the right combination of fresh dough (soft and chewy, as opposed to Roman-style, which is thin and crispy), mozzarella, and tomatoes in traditional wood-burning ovens. You can head for the famous, venerable places (I’ve listed five below), but these can have a long line stretching out the door, and a half-hour wait for a table. If you want to skip the hassle, just ask your hotel for directions to the neighborhood pizzeria. An average one-person pie (usually the only size available) costs €4-8; most places offer both take-out and eat-in, and pizza is often the only thing on the menu.
(See “ Naples Hotels & Restaurants” map, here.)
These two pizzerias—the most famous—are both a few long blocks from the train station, and at the end of my self-guided Naples walk.
Antica Pizzeria da Michele is for pizza purists. Filled with locals (and tourists), it serves just two varieties: margherita (tomato sauce and mozzarella) and marinara (tomato sauce, oregano, and garlic, no cheese). Come early to sit and watch the pizza artists in action. A pizza with beer costs €6-7. As this place is often jammed with a long line, arrive early or late to get a seat. If there’s a mob, head inside to get a number. If it’s just too crowded to wait, the less-exceptional Pizzeria Trianon (described next) generally has room (Mon-Sat 10:30-24:00, closed Sun; look for the vertical red Antica Pizzeria sign at the intersection of Via Pietro Colletta and Via Cesare Sersale at #1; tel. 081-553-9204).
Pizzeria Trianon, across the street and left a few doors, has been da Michele’s archrival since 1923. It offers more choices, higher prices (€5-8, plus a 15 percent service charge), air-conditioning, and a cozier atmosphere. For less chaos, head upstairs. While waiting for your meal, you can survey the transformation of a humble wad of dough into a smoldering bubbly feast in their entryway pizza kitchen (daily 11:00-15:30 & 19:00-23:00, Via Pietro Colletta 42, tel. 081-553-9426).
(See “ Naples Hotels & Restaurants” map, here.)
This street, which runs a couple of blocks north of Spaccanapoli, is home to several pizzerias that are more convenient to sightseeing. Three in particular are on all the “best pizza in Naples” lists...as you’ll learn the hard way if you show up at peak mealtimes, when huge mobs crowd outside the front door waiting for a table. Gino Sorbillo is a local favorite (closed Sun, Via dei Tribunali 32—don’t confuse this with his relatives’ similarly named places on the same street, tel. 081-446-643). At Pizzeria di Matteo, people waiting out front snack on €0.50 croquettes (crocché), sold at the little window (sometimes closed Sun, Via dei Tribunali 94, tel. 081-455-262). Pizzeria I Decumani has a bit nicer seating and is perhaps less chaotic (closed Mon, facing Piazza San Gaetano at Via dei Tribunali 58, tel. 081-557-1309).
If you want a full meal rather than a pizza, consider these options, which I’ve organized by neighborhood.
(See “ Naples Hotels & Restaurants” map, here.)
Ecomesarà serves up Neapolitan and meridionale (southern Italian) dishes, abiding by the Slow Food ethic, in a modern setting just below the Santa Chiara cloister, a long block south of Spaccanapoli. The atmosphere is mellow, modern, and international. Cristiano and his staff are happy to explain the menu and explain that separate contorni (vegetable sides) aren’t necessary because all of their dishes have vegetables (€10-16 main courses, Tue-Sun 13:00-15:00 & 19:30-23:00, closed Mon, Via Santa Chiara 49, tel. 081-1925-9353).
Trattoria Campagnola is a classic family place with a daily home-cooking-style chalkboard menu on the back wall, mama busy cooking in the back, and wine on tap. Here you can venture away from pastas, be experimental with a series of local dishes, and not go wrong (€7 main courses, Wed-Mon 12:00-16:00 & 19:00-23:00, closed Tue, between the famous pizzerias at Via Tribunali 47, tel. 081-459-034 but no reservations).
Osteria il Garum is great if you’d like to eat on a classic Neapolitan square. It’s named for the ancient fish sauce that was widely used in Roman cooking. These days, mild-mannered Luigi and his staff inject their pricey local cuisine with centuries of tradition, served in a cozy split-level cellar or outside on a covered terrace facing a neighborhood church. It’s just between Via Toledo and Spaccanapoli, a short walk from the Church of Gesù Nuovo (€9-13 pastas, €14-17 secondi, daily 12:00-15:30 & 19:00-23:30, Piazza Monteoliveto 2A, tel. 081-542-3228).
Valù, with a modern red-and-black color scheme and a wine-bar vibe, sits sane and romantic in the colorful and rowdy Spanish Quarter just a block off Via Toledo. This risotteria specializes in risotto (which is not a local dish), serving 20 different variations. Choose between the interior or a few outdoor tables along a tight alley (€10-12 risottos, €8-16 meat dishes, Mon-Sat 12:30-15:00 & 19:00-24:00, closed Sun, Vico Lungo del Gelso 80, up alley directly opposite Banco di Napoli entrance, tel. 081-038-1139, www.valu.it).
Trattoria da Nennella is fun-loving chaos, with red-shirted waiters barking orders, a small festival anytime someone puts a tip in the bucket, and the fruit course served in plastic bidets. There’s one price—€12 per person—and you choose three courses plus a fruit. House wine is served in tiny plastic cups, the crowd is ready for fun, and the food’s good. It’s buried in the Spanish Quarter. You can sit indoors, or on a cobbled terrace under a trellis (Mon-Sat 12:00-15:00 & 19:15-23:15, closed Sun, leave Via Toledo a block down from the BNL bank and walk up Vico Teatro Nuovo three blocks to the corner of Vico Lungo Teatro Nuovo, Vico Lungo Teatro Nuovo 103, tel. 081-414-338 but no reservations).
(See “ Naples” map, here.)
La Stanza del Gusto, two blocks downhill from the museum, tackles food creatively and injects crusty Naples with a little modern color and irreverence. The downstairs is casual, trendy, and playful, while the upstairs is more refined yet still polka-dotted (€5-8 panini, €10-15 secondi; fixed-price meals: €35 five-course vegetarian, €65 seven-course meat; Tue-Sat 12:00-15:30 & 19:30-23:30, closed Sun-Mon, Via Santa Maria di Constantinopoli 100, tel. 081-401-578).
Caffetteria Angela is a fun little eating complex: coffee bar; tavola calda with hot ready-to-eat dishes (€3-4); and a tiny meat, cheese, and bread shop with all you need for a cheap meal to go. It offers honest pricing and simple, peaceful, air-conditioned indoor seating (no cover, open Mon-Sat 7:00-21:00, Sun 9:00-14:00, 3 blocks below museum at Via Conte di Ruvo 21, between Via Pessina and Via Bellini, tel. 081-033-2928).
((See “ Naples” map, here.)
Ristorante la Scialuppa (“The Rowboat”) is a great bet for a fine local meal on the harbor. Located in the romantic Santa Lucia district, you’ll walk across the causeway to the Castel dell‘Ovo in the fisherman’s quarter (the castle on the island) just off Via Partenope. They boast fine indoor and outdoor seating, attentive waitstaff, a wonderful assortment of antipasti, great seafood, and predictably high prices. Reservations are smart (€10 pizza, €14 pastas, €18 secondi, Borgo Marinaro 4, tel. 081-764-5333, www.ristorantelascialuppa.it).
While far from high cuisine, these functional options are worth considering if you’re on the way back to catch your train, or if you’re sleeping in this neighborhood and don’t want to venture far: La Cantina dei Mille, a block in front of the train station, is a traditional family-style place serving good, basic Neapolitan food to good, basic Neapolitans (€5-7 pizza, pasta, and secondi, 15 percent service charge, daily 12:00-16:00 & 17:00-24:00; with your back to the station, it’s about halfway up the left side of Piazza Garibaldi at #126; tel. 081-283-448). Next door, Iris is another decent choice. The recommended Grand Hotel Europa has a restaurant peacefully buried in its basement, offering friendly service and a fine value (€20 fixed-price dinners include water and coffee, show this book for a 15 percent discount, dinner served 19:00-22:30).
From Naples by Boat to: Sorrento (6/day, more in summer, departs roughly every 2 hours starting at 9:00, 35 minutes), Capri (roughly 2/hour, 45 minutes); for more information, see www.snav.it and www.navlib.it. Seasonal boats to Positano (summer only, 4/day, 1.25-1.5 hours) continue on to Amalfi (1.5-2 hours). For a map showing boat connections, see here.
By Train to: Rome (at least hourly, 1.25 hours on Frecciarossa express trains; otherwise 2 hours), Civitavecchia (at least hourly, 3 hours, most change in Rome), Florence (hourly, 3 hours), Livorno (roughly hourly, 5 hours, most change in Rome or Florence), Salerno (2/hour, 35-60 minutes, change in Salerno for boats to Amalfi and Positano; avoid slower trains that leave from Garibaldi Station), Paestum (10/day, 1.5 hours, tickets sold at ticket counter and tobacco shops but not from machines, direction: Sapri), Brindisi (8/day, 4.75-7 hours, overnight possible; from Brindisi, ferries sail to Greece), Milan (direct trains hourly, 4.5-5 hours, more frequent with change in Rome, overnight possible), Venice (almost hourly, 5.5-7 hours with changes in Bologna or Rome, overnight possible), Palermo (2/day direct, 9-9.5 hours, overnight possible), Nice (3/day, 12 hours with change in Genoa), Paris (3/day, 13-15 hours with change in Rome or Milan). Any train listed on the schedule as leaving Napoli PG or Napoli-Garibaldi departs not from Napoli Centrale, but from the adjacent Garibaldi Station.
To connect Naples, Sorrento, and the Amalfi Coast, you can travel on land by train, bus, and taxi. Whenever possible, consider taking a boat—it’s faster, cooler, and more scenic, and you can take coastline photos that you can’t get from land. For specifics, check the “Connections” sections of each chapter. Confirm times and prices locally.
By Circumvesuviana Train: This useful commuter train—popular with locals, tourists, and pickpockets—links Naples, Herculaneum, Pompeii, and Sorrento. At Naples’ Centrale Station, follow Circumvesuviana signs downstairs and down the corridor to the Circumvesuviana ticket windows and turnstiles. When you buy your ticket, ask which track your train will depart from (“Quale binario?”; KWAH-lay bee-NAH-ree-oh). Insert your ticket at the turnstiles and find your platform (down another level).
Circumvesuviana tickets are covered by the Campania ArteCard (see here), but not rail passes. All-day Circumvesuviana tickets are available, but—unless you’re making several stops on a long round-trip—aren’t worth considering, except on weekends, when they’re nearly half-price (€12 Mon-Fri, €6.50 “weekend pass” available Sat-Sun). For schedules, see www.vesuviana.it.
If you’re heading to Pompeii or Herculaneum, take any Circumvesuviana train marked Sorrento—they all stop at both places. Sorrento-bound trains depart twice hourly, and take about 50 minutes to reach Ercolano Scavi (for the Herculaneum ruins, €2.20 one-way), 30 minutes to reach Pompei Scavi-Villa Misteri (for the Pompeii ruins, €2.90 one-way), and 70 minutes to reach Sorrento, the end of the line (€4.10 one-way). Express trains to Sorrento marked DD (6/day) reach Sorrento 15 minutes sooner (and also stop at Herculaneum and Pompeii).
As you board, double-check with a local that the train goes to Sorrento, as the Circumvesuviana has several lines that branch out to other destinations. When returning to Naples on the Circumvesuviana, get off at the next-to-the-last station, Garibaldi (Centrale Station is just up the escalator). Back in Naples, you can use your Circumvesuviana ticket to cover all public transit within three hours of validation (no need to validate again).
Be on guard: Many readers report being ripped off on the Circumvesuviana (see “Theft Alert,” here).
If you’re coming from Rome, note that a different (non-Circumvesuviana) train—run by the national rail company—goes from Rome to Naples, then continues to the ugly modern city of Pompei. But there is almost no reason to go to Pompei city, where you’ll face a long walk to the actual site. It’s better to simply get off at Naples’ Centrale Station and transfer to the Circumvesuviana (described above). The Pompei city train station is useful only if you need to travel directly between the ruins and Salerno (roughly hourly, 20 minutes) or Paestum (4 trains/day, 1 hour).
By Bus: Crowded SITA buses (often red or green-and-white) are most useful for traversing the popular Amalfi Coast; see “Getting Around the Amalfi Coast—By Bus” on here.
By Taxi: For €100, you can take a 30-mile taxi ride from Naples directly to your Sorrento hotel; agree on a set price without the meter and pay upon arrival. You can hire a cab on Capri for about €70/hour. Taxis in the Amalfi Coast are generally expensive, and more than willing to overcharge you, but they can be convenient, especially with a larger group. See “Getting Around the Amalfi Coast—By Taxi” on here.
By Boat: Several ferry companies service the Naples, Sorrento, and Amalfi Coast areas. While these can change from year to year, major companies include Caremar (www.caremar.it), SNAV (www.snav.it), Gescab (a.k.a. NLG Jet, www.gescab.it), Metrò del Mare (www.metrodelmare.com), Navigazione Libera del Golfo (www.navlib.it), and Alilauro (www.alilauro.it). Each company has different destinations and prices; some compete for the same trips. The quicker the trip, the higher the price. A hydrofoil, called a “jet boat,” skims between Naples and Sorrento—it’s faster, safer from pickpockets, more scenic, and more expensive than the train (6/day, more in summer, departs roughly every 2 hours starting at 9:00, 35 minutes, €12-13). A taxi from Naples’ Centrale train station to its port costs about €12-15.
For schedules to Capri, you can check online (www.capritourism.com; click “Shipping Timetable”), at any TI, or at Naples’ Molo Beverello boat dock. Ticket windows clearly display the next available departure. The number of boats that run per day depends on the season. Trips are canceled in bad weather. Most boats charge €2 or so for luggage.
If you plan to arrive at and leave a destination by boat, note the return times—the last boat usually leaves before 19:00.
Note that the departures listed above are Trenitalia connections; a private rail company called Italo offers additional high-speed options to Rome, Salerno, Florence, Milan, and Venice. While Italo may be cheaper, it doesn’t accept rail passes (for details on Italo, see here or visit www.italotreno.it), and in some cities (Rome and Milan) it serves only secondary stations.
By Circumvesuviana Train: See the “Getting Around the Region” sidebar for information on getting to Herculaneum, Pompeii, and Sorrento.
To Pompeii: To visit the ancient site of Pompeii, don’t use national train connections to the city of Pompei (which is far from the site). You’re better off on the Circumvesuviana train, which takes you to the Pompei Scavi-Villa dei Misteri stop near the actual site.