I close my eyes and smell that vibrant scent of the tomato, it’s unmistakable—zingy, earthy and fruity. It’s probably one smell everyone in the world could recognize.
RECIPES
MY FRESH TOMATO STEW FOR ALL SORTS OF THINGS
MY VERSION OF PANZANELLA: TOMATOES, BURRATA, BASIL, MIGAS & GREEN OLIVES
SMOKED TOMATO & GOAT CHEESE GOUGÈRES
My Grandad Tom gave me my love for tomatoes. At the back of his house, in a small mining village called Barnsley, was an oasis of things that had been grown to eat, and the two masterpieces in his greenhouse were the passion fruit flower (which he always wore on his lapel when he used to go to the club on Friday nights to impress the ladies) and the glorious tomato. He grew them everywhere—in the greenhouse, in the garden, in the house, even in the coal shed. I guess it was him that gave me a love of gardening, passed down through my own father, “Wilkie” Snr.
Gardening back in my grandad’s day wasn’t like it is today where we find ourselves doing it mainly as a hobby. For him, with certain produce not being widely available, especially during the war, growing your own produce was a necessity so you could have the vegetables of the season at hand.
I’ve only come around in the past two years not to eat a tomato out of season. I will use the canned variety instead as I believe they are a good product, with the tomatoes captured at their peak, and also because preserving things for use when they are out of season is how we are able to survive. The varieties available to us year round taste so watery, smell of chemicals and, not to mention, are so much more expensive. A tomato at its peak is such a delight, especially now that we have so many heirloom varietals re-emerging and making their way into our supermarkets and nurseries.
In fact, when you think about it, tomatoes are everywhere. And it’s hard to imagine any Western cuisine without them, especially Italian. Whether they are used in sugo, tomato paste, sauces, ketchups, chutneys, stews, fresh, cooked, canned or bottled, tomatoes are a staple of the modern diet. It’s surprizing then to discover that the tomato was viewed with huge suspicion by most when it was first introduced. It came from South America courtesy of the Spanish colonizers in the early 1500s, and then via Spain through to Italy and the rest of Europe, including the UK. It took the general population a long time to warm to them, and while they were always around, they only increased in popularity after the mid-1700s, following the fashion of importing delicacies from the continent.
There were a few reasons for people to be apprehensive, even if they were all ultimately incorrect. It started with the name. They were known as “love apples,” and were grown as an ornament, something that a man would present to his lady as a token of love. There was also a yellow variety (much more common then than now) whose fruit supposedly resembled the biblical mandrake plant, long thought to have aphrodisiac qualities. Hence the Italian title “pomo d’oro” or “golden apple.”
They were also thought to be very bad for the digestion, the skins said to stick to the lining of the stomach, and many doctors warned against eating them. Again this refers back to their name, this time their scientific one, Lycopersicon esculentum, which translates as “wolf peach.” The “peach” part is understandable due to its shape, but “wolf’ was because of their relation to the deadly nightshade family and the assumption that tomatoes, too, must be poisonous.
There is a persistent myth of how they came to be accepted as safe for consumption in America, and that was when, in 1820, one Colonel Johnson stood on the steps of the courthouse in Salem and proceeded to eat an entire basket of raw tomatoes. A large crowd gathered in anticipation of seeing him die slowly, and were probably really disappointed when he didn’t!
For my part, there’s something so great about growing your own tomatoes. There’s such a variety to choose from, for starters, including all sizes, shapes and colors. Red, yellow, green, striped, cherry, pear, plum, the list just goes on. I do know, however, that some people find them quite intimidating to grow. All I can say is give it a go, and you’ll be pleasantly surprised. They are a self-pollinating plant, which basically means they can reproduce all on their own. So don’t be surprised if some pop up in your compost. You can always pull the little fellows out and plant them in a pot or garden bed. If they can survive on their own, imagine how well they will do with a bit of love, food and water. They really love warm weather, quite a lot of sun, and well-drained soil with a heap of compost and manure added. If they are the taller-growing varieties, you will need to tie them to a stake for support as they grow. One little tip I discovered too: they are very sensitive to tobacco, and will wilt if touched with a hand that has held a cigarette. Strange but true.
A great companion for the tomato—both in eating and growing—is beautiful sweet basil. Dot a few of these in between your tomatoes and come harvest time you will have the makings of a lovely fresh, light panzanella salad (see recipe) or as I like to call it, “summer in a bowl.” I think even Grandad Tom would approve.
MY FRESH TOMATO STEW FOR ALL SORTS OF THINGS
MAKES ABOUT 4 CUPS
We all have a fail-safe recipe that lets us, at the last moment, pull a rabbit out of the hat. During the summer months, this is mine. It’s great with pasta, steak or chicken, brilliant on eggplant or with marinated sardines, or can be used as a base for Bolognese.
3 TABLESPOONS EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL
6 TOMATOES (MIXED HEIRLOOMS PREFERABLY), ROUGHLY CHOPPED
3 SHALLOTS, SLICED
2 GARLIC CLOVES, SLICED
1 OUNCE SALTED BABY CAPERS, RINSED
14 TURNS OF BLACK PEPPER FROM A MILL
1½ TABLESPOONS RED WINE VINEGAR
1 PINCH OF FINE SEA SALT
1 PINCH OF WHITE SUGAR
1 SMALL HANDFUL OF BASIL LEAVES, SHREDDED
1 SMALL HANDFUL ITALIAN PARSLEY LEAVES, SHREDDED
Heat a large skillet at least 10 inches in diameter over medium heat. Add the olive oil and heat for 1 minute, then add the tomato, shallot and garlic and cook out for 5 minutes. Add the capers and pepper, turn the heat to high, stir in the vinegar and ⅓ cup of water, bring to a boil, then turn down the heat and cook for 5–7 minutes or until the tomato has started to break down. Add the salt and sugar, take off the heat and add the herbs. Kapow! It’s ready.
MY VERSION OF PANZANELLA: TOMATOES, BURRATA, BASIL, MIGAS & GREEN OLIVES
SERVES 4 AS ENTRÉE OR AS A MAIN-DISH SALAD
There can’t be any other salad that shows off summer as much as a panzanella. My take is simply lots of different tomatoes, basil, green olives, some old bread that has been dipped in a smoked paprika oil and dried to make “migas” and burrata, which is a small ball of fresh mozzarella with a drop of seasoned cream in the center. If you can’t find it, substitute with good-quality fresh mozza.
JUICE OF 3 LEMONS
3 TABLESPOONS VINCOTTO
1 TABLESPOON DIJON MUSTARD
1 CUP OLIVE OIL
3 TABLESPOONS CHARDONNAY VINEGAR
FINE SEA SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
7 OUNCES STALE CIABATTA BREAD
¾ CUP OLIVE OIL
1 TEASPOON SMOKED PAPRIKA
ABOUT 8 MIXED HEIRLOOM TOMATOES (SEE NOTE), CUT INTO ANY SHAPES YOU LIKE
½ CUP GREEN OLIVES, CRUSHED AND PITTED
¼ BUNCH BASIL, BABY LEAVES PICKED
2 RED ASIAN SHALLOTS, FINELY DICED
2 BURRATA, ROUGHLY CHOPPED
SEA SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
For the lemon and vincotto dressing, whisk all the ingredients together in a bowl.
For the migas, preheat the oven to 350°F and line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Slice the ciabatta into thick, long fingers. Whisk together the oil and paprika in a shallow bowl, then dip in the bread and place on the tray. Bake for 9–13 minutes or until crisp on the outside but still a little soft on the inside.
To assemble, marinate, the sliced tomatoes in a little of the dressing for 20 minutes. Arrange onto a serving plate or bowl. Toss most of the olives and basil and all the shallot and migas together in a bowl, then arrange over the sliced tomatoes in any way you like really. Dress with a little more dressing, then scatter over the burrata. Season with salt and pepper, then top with the remaining basil and olives.
Note My favorite heirloom varieties include: Wapsipinicon Peach, Tigerella, Jaune Flamme, Brown Berry, Green Zebra, Purple Russian, Beams Yellow Pear, Black Russian, Tommy Toe and Black Krim.
PICKLED GREEN TOMATOES
FILLS A 6 CUP JAR
It’s up to you really how you go about selecting your green tomatoes. You may choose the Green Zebra variety or tomatillos, but for me I usually either pickle green tomatoes from the start of the season (the juvenile green tomatoes that have blossomed early) or from the end of the season (the immature ones that will not ripen). Whatever you choose, here is a fail-safe recipe for putting green tomatoes to good use. I like to use the pickled tomatoes in any form of toasted sandwich, in a salad or with a slice of cheese.
ABOUT 8 GREEN TOMATOES, THINLY SLICED
6 SHALLOTS, THINLY SLICED
3 LARGE GARLIC CLOVES, THINLY SLICED
3 TABLESPOONS FINE SEA SALT
1 SMALL GREEN CHILI, THINLY SLICED
4 CUPS WHITE WINE VINEGAR
⅔ CUP EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL
2 TEASPOONS CORIANDER SEEDS
2 TEASPOONS CRUSHED BLACK PEPPERCORNS
Place the tomato, shallot, garlic and salt in a large bowl and leave to sit for 5 minutes. This will bring out the moisture. Drain, then place the tomato in a large sterilized glass jar.
Place the remaining ingredients and 1⅓ cups of water in a large saucepan and bring to a boil, then pour over the tomato. Allow to cool, then seal with a lid and store for at least 1 week before using. Store in the fridge after opening for up to 2 months.
SMOKED TOMATO & GOAT CHEESE GOUGÈRES
MAKES 20 SMALL GOUGÈRES
It may seem like a lot of fiddling around but these simple yet delicious canapés rock the kasbah. If you can’t buy smoked tomatoes, I have included a way to smoke your own tomatoes (see recipe)—it’s simple to do and I’m sure you will find yourself adding them to all sorts of incarnations; try them with a poached egg and some salted zucchini. If you don’t want to go to the trouble, then a little cheat’s method (but you didn’t hear it from me) is to peel and roast some tomatoes and sprinkle them with smoked salt. It’s a good substitute, especially for this recipe.
3 SMOKED TOMATOES, FLESH ONLY
7 OUNCES SOFT, FRESH GOAT CHEESE OR FROMAGE BLANC
SEA SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
3 TABLESPOONS MILK
1½ TABLESPOONS BUTTER, DICED
1 PINCH OF FINE SEA SALT
1 PINCH OF WHITE SUGAR
½ CUP ALL-PURPOSE FLOUR
2 FREE-RANGE OR ORGANIC EGGS
⅔ CUP FINELY GRATED PARMESAN
1 FREE-RANGE OR ORGANIC EGG YOLK, WHISKED WITH A FORK
For the gougères, preheat the oven to 400°F and line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
Place 3 tablespoons of water, the milk and butter in a saucepan and bring to a boil, then turn down the heat to low, add the salt, sugar and flour and, using a wooden spoon, whip until a smooth paste forms. Keep cooking out for 4–5 minutes, then take off the heat. Using the wooden spoon, beat in the eggs, then two-thirds of the Parmesan. You can at this point transfer the mixture to a food processor or to the bowl of an electric mixer to beat until cooled or just beat by hand.
Place the cooled mixture into a frosting bag fitted with a plain medium nozzle and pipe small rounds (about the size of a macadamia nut) onto the tray. Lightly brush with the whisked egg yolk and sprinkle with the remaining Parmesan. Bake for 12–18 minutes or until risen and golden. Place onto a wire rack and, using a small knife, make a hole, in the bases, only large enough so a small piping nozzle will fit into it.
For the smoked tomato and goat cheese filling, blitz together the smoked tomato flesh and goat cheese and season with salt and pepper. Transfer to a icing bag fitted with a small nozzle and pipe a little of the filling into the gougères. Flash in the oven to warm through, then serve immediately. There will be excess filling to serve on the side to dip into if you wish.
TOMATO KASUNDI
FILLS TWO 4-CUP CAPACITY JARS
British cuisine owes so much to the flavors of India and, on behalf of us Brits, I say thank you. Especially for a nice cup of tea and this great spicy tomato pickle sauce.
4½ OUNCE PIECE OF FRESH GINGER, PEELED AND CHOPPED
2½ OUNCES GARLIC
¾ OUNCE GREEN CHILIS, HALVED AND SEEDS REMOVED
¾ CUP VEGETABLE OIL
⅓ CUP BLACK MUSTARD SEEDS
½ OUNCE GROUND TURMERIC
2 OUNCES GROUND CUMIN
PINCH CHILI POWDER
2 POUNDS 10 ½ OUNCES CANNED CHOPPED TOMATOES
3 TEASPOONS FINE SEA SALT
1¼ CUPS APPLE CIDER VINEGAR
¾ CUP UNREFINED LIGHT BROWN SUGAR
Mince the ginger, garlic and chili in a food processor until a smooth paste forms.
Heat the vegetable oil in a heavy-bottomed 12-cup capacity saucepan over medium heat. Gently toast all the spices for 5 minutes to release their natural oils.
Add the ginger paste to the pan and cook for 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes, salt, vinegar and sugar, bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer and cook for 1–1½ hours. When the oil has come to the top and it looks like a curry sauce, it is ready. Take off the heat, and pour into sterilized preserving jars with lids. Keep for 4 weeks before using to give the flavors time to mature. This sauce will keep for a good year in a cool dark place. Once opened, store in the fridge and use within 3 months.
