algae: See river weed.
anchovy fillets: Anchovies preserved in brine or olive oil.
anise: See star anise.
aromatic jasmine rice: Often called Thai jasmine, aromatic jasmine rice is long-grain aromatic rice that cooks to a tender, slightly clinging consistency. It is the staple rice in many parts of Thailand and Vietnam and in Cambodia. Similar rices are eaten in many parts of Burma. The highest-quality jasmine rice used to be grown in Cambodia. Now Thailand is the source of most top-quality Southeast Asian jasmine rice. Jasmine rice grown in Thailand is widely available in North America, in supermarkets as well as in Asian groceries. American-grown jasmine rices are similar, but often have less aroma. They are also widely available. See Index for recipes.
Asian basil: See basil.
Asian eggplant: See eggplant.
bac ha: This is eaten as a vegetable, especially in Vietnam, but is, in fact, the long, strong, bright green stem of a plant known in English as giant taro. It looks a little like a single giant smooth stalk of celery, but it is a brighter green color and has no thick fibers. To cook, boil until tender. Frequently used in Vietnamese sour soup, it is sold in Vietnamese grocery stores.
basil, Asian basil, holy basil: With purple flowers, medium to dark green pointed leaves, and a sharp anise taste that stands up better to heating than sweet Mediterranean basil, Asian basil (also known as Thai basil) is a tropical variety of sweet basil (Occimum basilicum) that has become a favorite with chefs and other cooks and eaters who like strong tastes. In Vietnamese, it’s called rau que; in Khmer, jii’ liang vong; in Thai and Lao, bai horapa; in the Luang Prabang region of Laos, pak itoo. You’ll find it in Asian groceries and in many large supermarkets. Holy basil (Occimum basilicum) has narrower leaves than Asian basil, and the leaves are sometimes tinged with purple. Known as bai gaprow in Thai and mareh preuw in Khmer, it is often available in Southeast Asian grocery stores. It has little taste or aroma when raw; the flavor emerges strongly when it’s cooked. In Thailand, there’s another form of sweet basil, rarely available here, known as bai menglak. It has small bright green leaves, and it doesn’t keep well.
bean curd: See tofu.
bean sprouts: Chinese and other East Asian cuisines make use of the sprouts of both mung beans and soybeans. Mung bean sprouts are widely available; they are about 2 inches long and white with a small green yellow pod (the bean) at one end. Soybean sprouts are yellow, thicker, and longer (4 inches or more), and the beans from which they sprout are big and yellow. Mung bean sprouts are the only sprouts called for in this book. Buy sprouts that are crisp and pale-colored. Rinse them well with cold water and store them in a well-sealed container or plastic bag in the refrigerator; they are best when they are very fresh. They can be eaten raw or briefly parboiled or stir-fried. See Index for recipes.
black sticky rice: The unpolished version of one variety of Thai sticky rice (see Sticky rice), black sticky rice is widely used in Southeast Asia, especially for sweet treats. Because it is an unmilled (“brown”) rice, it takes longer to cook and is less sticky than white (milled) sticky rice. It is now widely available in Asian shops and large grocery stores. See Index for recipes.
black vinegar: See vinegar.
bok choi: Also sometimes spelled bok choy, this Chinese green and its close cousin Shanghai bok choi are increasingly available in large grocery stores as well as in Asian markets. Bok choi has wide dark green leaves and wide white stems; it grows in a small bunch or head, made up of several stems. Shanghai bok choi is shaped the same, but is bright green all over. Both are usually sold in bundles of two or three, bound with a rubber band. As with all these greens, the smaller the better in terms of tenderness and subtlety of flavor.
broccoli rabe: Also known as rapini, this member of the brassica family is now widely available in North America. It is a staple winter vegetable in Italy with dark green leaves and small heads of yellow flowers. Substitute regular broccoli.
canned coconut milk: See coconut.
carambola: See star fruit.
cassia (Cinnamomum cassia): Cassia bark has a strong cinnamonlike taste. It is sold in quills, long curved dried bits of bark, or powdered, and is usually labeled “cinnamon.” Most of the cinnamon sticks and ground cinnamon sold in North America are in fact cassia, and that is the cinnamon we call for in this book, for in Southeast Asia it is cassia, not true cinnamon, that is used to give a cinnamon taste.
celery leaf, Chinese celery leaf: Used as a fresh herb in Chinese and Lao dishes (in the same way that coriander leaves are used), celery leaf is known in Laos as tang sai. Bundles of it are sold in Chinese and Southeast Asian groceries. It is long and pale green, like regular celery, but with thin green stalks and much stronger tasting leaves. You can substitute the Japanese herb mitsuba or leaves from regular celery (they’ll be less strong tasting). Celery seeds are used in yellow curry.
cellophane noodles: See noodles.
chick-peas: Often known as garbanzos, these round golden yellow dried legumes are eaten in India, Central Asia, and the Mediterranean. They are available dried in most grocery stores and must be soaked overnight, then boiled for 2 to 3 hours until tender. Chick-pea flour, made from ground chick-peas, is known as besan in Hindi and is widely used in India.
chile pepper flakes: See chiles.
Chiles
Chiles are used both fresh and dried in the Mekong region. They vary greatly in chile heat, from mild to very hot. The general word for chiles in Thai and Lao is prik; in Khmer, m’teh; in Vietnamese, ot; and in Mandarin, la jiao. Use rubber gloves when cutting hot chiles, or wash your hands thoroughly with soapy water immediately afterward; do not touch your face or eyes with “chile hands.” Wash all cutting surfaces thoroughly after chopping chiles, or you’ll spread chile heat to other foods.
banana chiles, Cubanelles, Hungarian wax chiles: All these chiles are pale yellow to pale green, long, and 1½ to 2 inches wide at the top. They are mild to medium-hot, the heat varying even among chiles of the same type sold in the same bin at the produce stand. These are the closest approximation to the mild to medium chiles used in northern Thai and Lao cooking and known there as prik num; they are usually grilled, then pounded to a paste. They too vary in heat but are generally closest to banana chiles, in our experience. Use whichever chiles you have available. If yours are very mild and you wish more heat, just add a little serrano or bird chile to the recipe.
bird chiles: These small, pointed very hot chiles come in small cellophane packages in Southeast Asian shops. They’re known in Khmer as m’teh k’mang, in Vietnamese as ot, and in Thai and Lao as prik kii noo. They may be green or orange or red; most packages contain a mixture. You can substitute serrano chiles; you’ll have less heat but a similar flavor.
cayenne chiles, red and green: Long narrow pointed chiles, shiny bright red or deep green, cayenne chiles are sold in large grocery stores and in Asian markets. They are hot, though less hot than bird chiles.
chile pepper flakes: Dried red chiles are ground to a coarse powder and sold as chile pepper flakes in Asian groceries. They come in small plastic packages. Buy the brightest-red ones you can find. Store well sealed; if they start to smell musty, discard them. You can substitute finely chopped dried red chiles or the red pepper flakes that are sold in supermarket spice sections.
dried red chiles, Thai dried red chiles: Called prik haeng in Thai, dried red chiles are sold in cellophane packages in Asian grocery stores and many supermarkets. Try to find those labeled “product of Thailand” and, if you have a choice, pick those that are brightest red. As they age, dried red chiles seem to darken, and they also break into pieces, so if the chiles in the package look fairly intact, it’s a good sign. Store, once opened, in a well-sealed glass jar (this keeps them fresher and prevents moths and other infestations). Dried red chile flakes can usually be substituted.
chile oil: A bright-red flavored oil sold in most Asian grocery stores, in glass jars. Chile oil keeps almost indefinitely in a cool place. It’s made by steeping chile flakes in canola, cottonseed, or soy oil. Making your own, better-tasting version is very easy (see Hot Chile Oil, page 310).
Chinese broccoli: Depending on who you’re talking to, this name may refer to either of two broccolilike Chinese greens, gai laan, with round stalks and small white flowers, or choi sum, also known as flowering Chinese cabbage, with ridged green stalks and small yellow flowers. Both are members of the mustard family (Brassicaceae), like broccoli; both are widely available in Asian markets; and both are delicious.
Chinese celery leaf: See celery leaf.
Chinese chives: Flat-bladed chives with a flavor that has some onion and some garlic in it. Widely available (sold in bundles) in Asian markets. Regular chives can be substituted, with a slight difference in flavor and texture.
Chinese mustard greens, Swatow mustard: Another group of Chinese greens from the brassica family, all of these are pale green, with leaves attached at the bottom of the stem, giving a loose or tight “head of lettuce” appearance. Traditionally in China, they are used fresh or salted and pickled.
Chinese pickled cabbage: Often known as Tianjin (or Tientsin) cabbage, this preserve has a salty vinegary taste, less sweet than Pickled Cabbage, Thai Style (page 311). Homemade or store-bought, pickled cabbage makes a great condiment, in small quantities, for congee-style rice soups and other soups. Tianjin pickled cabbage usually comes in small heavy plastic packages or in crocks, both sold at East Asian grocery stores. You can substitute other pickled vegetables, such as pickled lettuce (often sold in jars); it’s fun to walk down the aisle of a Chinese or Vietnamese grocery and see all the pickled greens possibilities. Once opened, pickled vegetables should be stored in the refrigerator, well sealed.
Chinese rice wine: Known as Shaoxing, this pale brown cooking wine is available in Chinese grocery stores and some liquor stores. It gives a good depth of flavor to sauces and simmered dishes. It’s similar in taste and smell to dry sherry, which can be substituted.
cinnamon, cinnamon stick: True cinnamon has a milder flavor and more flaky, fragile bark than cassia, the spice that is usually sold as cinnamon and cinnamon sticks in North America. Cassia is the cinnamon used in Southeast Asia, and the one we mean when we call for cinnamon in this book. See cassia.
Coconut
Coconuts grow in tropical and subtropical climates, the fruit of the coconut palm. They are available, brown colored and hairy with fibers, at some markets in North America. Buy coconuts that are firm, not cracked. To tell if a coconut is ripe, pick it up and shake it; it should be heavy and have liquid sloshing around inside. To open, hit sharply with a hammer, or place the point of a large screwdriver on the coconut and tap the other end with a hammer. The inside of the coconut should be a gleaming fresh white with a slightly sweet smell.
grated coconut: This useful ingredient is produced by splitting open a ripe coconut and scraping the white meat from inside the fruit. To extract the meat, you need a coconut grater, a hand-held metal scraper attached to a board, available from Southeast Asian and Indian shops. You scrape the coconut against the grater to produce a pile of freshly grated coconut. (To improvise, for small quantities, you can use the sharp rippled edge of a large bottle cap to scrape out the coconut meat.) Use the meat immediately, fresh or to make Dry-Roasted Grated Coconut (page 308) or coconut milk, or freeze it. Grated coconut is also available frozen or dried in many Asian markets. For frozen, look in the freezer for 1-pound packages in heavyweight clear plastic; for dried, check the dried spices and flavorings section. Note: Be sure to read the package carefully. You do not want “young coconut”; you want unsweetened grated coconut, whether frozen or dried.
coconut cream and coconut milk: These are the thicker and thinner versions of the white liquid extracted from grated coconut. They are high in saturated fat (so that they solidify when refrigerated) and slightly sweet. To make fresh-pressed coconut milk, using freshly grated coconut, begin with 2 cups grated coconut. Place it in a large bowl and pour over 1½ cups warm (about 110ºF) water. Stir with your hands, massaging and kneading the coconut for about a minute, or blend it briefly in a blender or food processor, then let it stand for a few minutes, if you have the time, before you squeeze the liquid out of it handful by handful, setting the meat aside in another bowl. Set this extracted first pressing milk aside; you should have just over 1½ cups. Repeat to extract a second (thinner) pressing, and discard the coconut meat. Use the milk immediately, or refrigerate in a glass container, well sealed, for no more than 24 hours. If you use less water, say about ¾ cup, the first pressing will be thicker and richer, “coconut cream.” To use frozen grated unsweetened coconut to produce coconut milk, place 2 cups thawed grated coconut in a bowl with 1½ cups very warm water and follow the same method as above. The milk you extract will be a little less thick and tasty than that from freshly grated coconut, but still very acceptable.
If you are in a hurry or don’t have access to good coconuts (we usually fall into both categories), then you’ll want to keep a supply of canned (unsweetened) coconut milk in your pantry. It’s available in most Asian groceries, in 14- and 20-ounce cans. Try any made-in-Thailand brand, such as Aroy or Mae Ploy. It usually separates in the can into a thick “cream” layer on top and thinner watery milk below. You can use these separately, or stir well to recombine. Once opened, canned coconut milk should be transferred to a glass container and stored, well sealed, in the refrigerator for no more than 36 hours. (Note: Su-Mei Yu, a Thai chef and writer of Chinese-Thai origin who is passionate about respecting culinary traditions, feels that canned coconut milk is an abomination, and she won’t have it in her kitchen. Su-Mei lives in San Diego and manages to get good coconuts, from which she presses coconut milk. If your supply of coconut is unreliable, but you’d like to press your own milk, try pressing your own coconut milk from frozen grated unsweetened coconut [see above].)
cooking oils: For stir-frying Chinese and Southeast Asian food, we generally use cold-pressed Chinese peanut oil, sold in large tins in Asian grocery stores. It’s less expensive and more flavorful than North American–style peanut oil. For an oil with very little taste, use Planter’s peanut oil. Peanut oil can be heated to a very high temperature without breaking down, which also makes it ideal for deep-frying. You can substitute canola oil or corn oil if you wish; they are a little less stable at high temperatures. If preparing food for people with nut allergies, avoid peanut oil. In most of the Mekong region, rendered pork fat (lard) is the traditional cooking oil. It gives an incomparable flavor, but it is not in accord with current approaches to healthy eating. Pork fat is also something of a luxury for many people in the region, so that in fact many cooks in the Mekong area use a vegetable oil, such as cottonseed oil or soy oil, instead. Buy pork fat from your butcher or accumulate a supply over time by trimming fat from pork and storing it in a plastic bag in the freezer. To render pork fat, place pieces of pork fat in a heavy skillet over medium heat; the fat will gradually melt. When all the fat has melted, pour through a strainer, to catch any stray pieces of meat, into a container. Once cooled, store, covered, in the refrigerator or freezer.
coriander, coriander leaves, coriander roots: Known as pakchi in Thai, pak hom pom in Lao, and rau ngo in Vietnamese, coriander has now become widely available, even in small grocery stores. The leaves and roots of coriander, also known by its Mexican name, cilantro, are widely used in Southeast Asia. The roots are particularly important in Thai and Lao cuisines. Try to buy bunches of coriander with the roots still on. Stored in water (to the top of the roots) with a plastic bag placed loosely over the leaves, it will keep in the refrigerator for about a week. Because coriander root is so handy to have for preparing many classic Thai dishes, we try to stockpile it. We always buy coriander with the roots on; when we’ve finished with the leaves, we wash the roots, then wrap them in foil and freeze them. Defrost simply by running them under cold water.
cornstarch: Sold in any grocery store, cornstarch is used to thicken the sauce at the last minute in many Chinese stir-fry dishes. It’s also an ingredient in Fresh Noodle Sheets (page 121). Store in a well-sealed jar.
curry pastes: Ready-made curry pastes from Thailand (red, green, yellow, mussamen, and sometimes others) are now widely sold in Southeast Asian groceries and large well-stocked grocery stores. You can also make your own (see Index). Curry pastes contain fresh and dried flavorings, usually including galangal, dried or fresh chiles, and shrimp paste, among other ingredients. They come in cans or jars or in foil packages. Once opened, stored in the refrigerator, well sealed, they will keep for a month or more. Most traditional Southeast Asian curries begin by heating the curry paste in oil or coconut milk to release the flavors; the remaining ingredients in the dish are then added and cooked in the curry-flavored oil.
daikon (Raphanus sativus spp.): A large white or pale green radish, also sometimes called icicle radish or white radish, this root vegetable is used sliced or grated in soups and salads and to make pickles. It is now widely available in large grocery stores as well as in Asian markets. Buy firm smooth-skinned daikon, and choose smaller ones over larger. Daikon keeps well in a plastic bag in the refrigerator. Daikon is the Japanese name; the Vietnamese is cu cai tau; the Thai, hua pak had.
dao jiao: See fermented soybean paste.
dill: Known in Thailand as pak chi lao and in Laos as pak si, fresh dill is used in the cooking of the Luang Pabang region, usually simmered in cooked dishes rather than raw. Fresh dill has soft frondlike leaves and long stems; the flowers are parasol-shaped and ripen into dill seed, used in Northern and Eastern European cooking.
doufu gan: See tofu.
dried mushrooms: See mushrooms.
dried red chile flakes: See chiles.
dried river weed: See river weed.
dried shrimp: These small orange-pink shrimp are salty and pungent-tasting, flavor-packed. They are widely used for giving flavor and depth to soups and curry pastes in many parts of Southeast Asia and in China. Known as gung haeng in Thai and tngoi in Khmer, they are easy to find, sold in clear cellophane packages in Chinese and Southeast Asian grocery stores. If you have a choice, choose larger over smaller shrimp and strong-colored over pale. Once you have opened the package, store in a tightly sealed plastic bag in the refrigerator for no longer than a month.
eggplant (Solanum spp.): Many different eggplants are used in Southeast Asian dishes, some cooked and some raw. Look for them in Asian shops and large well-stocked grocery stores. Long eggplants, also known as Asian eggplants, are pale or dark purple, white, or bright green in color and are stir-fried, grilled, or simmered; they are 5 to 12 inches long and fairly slender. Unlike Mediterranean eggplants, they do not need salting to draw out bitterness. Small round, firm, white or pale green Thai eggplants (makheua khun in Thai and Lao), also known as round eggplants, are the size of limes. They are often used in Thai and Lao curries, whole or halved. They may also come to the table uncooked, as part of the array of raw vegetables served to accompany cooked salsas and other dishes. Tiny green eggplants, known as pea eggplants (makheua puong in Thai and Lao), are used in curries to give an agreeable bitter taste. They are smaller than cherry tomatoes and bright green, usually sold on the stalk.
European cucumber: Long, tender-skinned European cucumbers (sometimes called English or seedless cucumbers) are mild-tasting, with small tender seeds, and ideal accompaniments to many Southeast Asian dishes. They are now widely available in grocery stores almost year-round. Substitute other cucumbers if you wish, but peel them and remove any tough seeds.
fagara: See Sichuan pepper.
fermented soybean cakes: Known in Shan as tua nao, these dark brown thin, almost crisp rounds are used in northern Thai and Shan cooking. In recipes, you can substitute fermented soybean paste (see below). These are the instructions we were given for making them: Boil soybeans in water until soft. Let sit for 3 days to ferment, then pound to flatten and shape into 3-inch disks. Flatten between two layers of cotton cloth. Dry in the sun. Grill lightly to dry out completely. To use, pound in a mortar with other flavorings such as dried red chile, sesame seeds, and peanuts (see Shan Chile Paste, page 37).
fermented soybean paste: Most readily available in Thai groceries and Vietnamese shops, this is the original fermented soybean product, the forerunner of soy sauce, miso, and other soy products. Fermented soybeans are a traditional ingredient in northern Thai and Shan cooking and in vegetarian Chinese and Vietnamese dishes. (Farther south, in central and southern Thailand, smoky fermented flavor comes instead from using shrimp paste and dried shrimp.) Soybean paste comes in glass jars; we keep it in the refrigerator once the jar has been opened. It traditionally contains only soybeans, salt, and water, but often there is also a little sugar as well as a preservative in it. The beans may be whole or already mashed; mash the beans before using it.
The Thai name is dao jiao and Thai versions are labeled “fermented soybeans”; the Vietnamese version (which contains a little sugar and is slightly darker) comes as a paste or sauce labeled tuong cu da or tuong bac. (Note: Read the label—if it contains ingredients other than soybeans, salt, water, sugar, and, perhaps, a preservative, it will have a different flavor, say, of garlic or hot chiles; look for a plain version.) You can also use Indonesian fermented soybeans (the brand we find most often is Yeo); again, it’s a little sweet and the beans need to be mashed. A spoonful or two gives a distinctive and wonderful flavor to Thai rice noodles (see, for example, page 116), vegetable stir-fries, many Shan specialties, and vegetarian versions of many Thai and Vietnamese dishes.
fermented soybean sauce: See fermented soybean paste.
fiddleheads: The tender, edible tip of a kind of young fern, fiddleheads are available in the spring from well-stocked grocery stores and specialty produce markets. Fiddleheads from New England and the maritime provinces of Canada are the best known. They are best eaten very young and very fresh. To prepare, place in a large sink full of cool water. Gently rub off any remaining papery-like casing, trim off the tough stem ends, and wash thoroughly before cooking. Many ferns are poisonous, so don’t go out into the woods to gather fiddleheads unless you know them well.
fish sauce: Known as nam pla in Thai, nam pa in Lao, tuk trey in Khmer, and nuoc mam in Vietnamese, fish sauce is the essential flavoring and condiment in much of Southeast Asia. The pale liquid released by heavily salted and pressed fish as they ferment, it is salty and the flavor varies from slightly smoky to very pungent. Thai and Cambodian fish sauces tend to be milder and less pungent than the Vietnamese. Fish sauce is sold in tall bottles, very inexpensively. (Some U.S.-based companies are now repackaging Thai fish sauce in small attractively labeled bottles with a much higher price.) You’ll find it in Asian groceries and in many large supermarkets. Check the label for the list of ingredients: Avoid fish sauces that include sugar (many Vietnamese brands now being exported are sweetened). Fish sauce keeps almost indefinitely in the cupboard; it does not need refrigeration. For salt equivalent, our rough rule of thumb is 1 tablespoon fish sauce equals 1 teaspoon salt. See also preserved fish.
five-spice powder: The ground version of the Chinese and Vietnamese “five spices” (often, in fact, six or seven), usually consisting of star anise, cassia, cloves, Sichuan pepper, licorice root, and fennel or anise seed, this strong-tasting, very aromatic spice powder is available in most Asian groceries. It makes an interesting rub for grilled meat.
fresh ham: See pork.
fresh-pressed coconut milk: See coconut.
freshwater algae: See river weed.
galangal (also sometimes spelled galingale): A close cousin of ginger, this rhizome has a sharp, more lemony pine-resin taste and a sharper but less pungent heat. It is widely used in Thai curry pastes and in some Mekong salsas (see Index). It was a common flavoring in the Middle Ages in Europe, then fell out of use. It is available in Southeast Asian groceries; look for a gingerlike rhizome with pink shoots or tips and a paler, thinner skin than ginger, marked with fine dark concentric rings. (Ask the shopkeeper for help.) The Thai and Lao name is khaa, the Khmer is mtdaeng, the Vietnamese is rieng, the Malay is lengkuas, and the Indonesian is laos. You may see Indonesian laos powder for sale, dried powdered galangal; avoid it, for it has little flavor.
ginger, young ginger: Often referred to as gingerroot, ginger is in fact a rhizome. Look for smooth, firm ginger with unwrinkled skin. Young ginger has thinner, paler beige skin than mature ginger and a milder, sweeter taste. Peel ginger before using (since the peel, except on very tender young ginger, is thick and tough), unless you’re just adding slices to soup as a flavoring. Use the peels to make ginger tea.
glass noodles: See noodles.
glutinous rice: See sticky rice.
green mangoes: Small firm green, sometimes tinged with a little red, these unripe mangoes travel well and are now widely available. The flesh is pale green to pale yellow, firm, and tart-tasting. Slice or coarsely grate. Peel green mangoes just before using; store them in the vegetable drawer of the refrigerator. See also mangoes.
hog plum: Known as makawk in Thai and Lao, this small sour green fruit (Selaeocarpus madopetalus) is oval and about 3 inches long. It has a thin skin and large pit and is used, raw, in savory dishes as a sour flavoring. Mashed and simmered briefly in a little hot water, it also makes a very good Mekong salsa. It is sometimes available in Southeast Asian groceries. Tomatillos, with their tart green taste, make a good substitute.
holy basil: See basil.
jicama: Also sometimes known as yam bean, jicama is a roundish tuber with pale tan skin and a crisp white interior. Peel before using and use chopped in salads. It has a slightly sweet taste.
kabocha: Also known as Japanese squash, this small (8-inch-diameter) round squash has golden yellow firm flesh and dull green skin. It can be steamed, simmered, or braised. Use in place of pumpkin or other winter squash in savory recipes. It is widely available in Asian groceries.
kaffir limes, kaffir lime leaves: See wild lime leaves.
kaipen, khai pen: See river weed.
kosher salt: See salt.
krachai (Kaempferia panduratum): We use the Thai-Lao name for this rhizome because there seems to be no consistent English-language name. Some books refer to it as rhizome (and you’ll see small packages of dried krachai sold as “rhizome powder”; it has little flavor, so avoid it). In others, it’s called lesser galangal. Krachai looks like a small bundle of soft pale brown fingers. It’s a rhizome, another in the ginger and galangal family, and is used in Khmer and Thai cooking, especially in fish curries and jungle curries.
lemongrass (Cymbopogon citratus): Long dry-looking pale green to beige stalks, sold in bundles of three or four in Southeast Asian and Chinese groceries and large produce markets, lemongrass is a wonderful, distinctive herb that keeps well in the refrigerator for 10 days or more, drying out over time. You can also freeze it, whole or minced. Avoid dried lemongrass powder; it has very little taste. Only the strongly aromatic 2 to 3 inches of the bulb end of the lemongrass stalk is used. To use, cut off the very tough root end and peel off the outermost layer of the stalk; discard both. Trim off and discard the top (grassy end), leaving you 2 to 3 inches of stalk. You can smash this flat with a cleaver and use it whole as a flavoring in soups and stews, or you can finely mince it before using it in a flavor paste or curry paste. Minced lemongrass freezes well; it makes a great rub for grilled meats. In Vietnamese, it’s called sa; in Thai, takrai; in Lao, sikai; and in Khmer, culs lakray.
lime juice, limes: Lime juice freshly squeezed from the small juicy limes of Southeast Asia is a very important ingredient in the region, especially in Thai, Khmer, and Vietnamese cooking. Lime wedges are often served alongside fried rice so diners can squeeze on a little extra juice at their pleasure. Look for juicy limes, Key limes if you can find them. Try to keep several in your refrigerator at all times. If limes are absolutely unavailable, substitute lemons; avoid bottled lime juice, since it often has a metallic taste from the preservatives blended in.
lime leaves: See wild lime leaves.
long beans: See yard-long beans.
makawk: See hog plum.
mangoes: Ripe mangoes are sweet and juicy, wonderful tropical fruits. They originated in Asia but are now widely grown in Mexico, Central America, and the Caribbean, as well as in tropical Asia. The best mangoes have a smooth sweet golden yellow to orange flesh and no fibrous strands. All mangoes have a flat pit inside. See page 297 for instructions on peeling and slicing mangoes. See also green mangoes.
mint leaves: Mint leaves are used fresh throughout Southeast Asia. Try to find Vietnamese mint; it has fine, smooth tender leaves and a good flavor. Unfortunately, in most parts of North America, it is still hard to find in grocery stores. We substitute the fresh strong-tasting mint (spearmint) that grows widely in North America. It tends to be a little coarse, so we mince it rather than just tearing it as we do with other more tender green-leafed herbs.
monosodium glutamate (msg): This manufactured version of a naturally occurring substance is widely used in Southeast Asia to enhance flavor. It is sold as a crystalline powder, often labeled “flavor powder.” Tasted on its own, it is not salty. Rather, it has a meaty taste, the flavor known by its Japanese name umami. We have not included msg in any recipes; most cooks in Southeast Asian towns and cities add msg to many savory dishes. They add it to taste when they add salt or fish sauce. To try it, generally add it in the same amount as you would salt (and if using fish sauce, use 1 teaspoon per tablespoon of fish sauce). Some people experience headaches or dizziness after eating foods overly seasoned with msg.
mung beans, split mung beans (Phaseolus aureus): Whole mung beans are dull green in color, small, and almost round dried peas. Split mung beans are sold in natural food stores and in Asian groceries. In Vietnamese, they’re dau xanh. They may be hulled (yellow in color) or unhulled (green on the outside and yellow on the split side). All the recipes in this book call for yellow (hulled) split mung beans. Hulled mung beans are a golden yellow color all over because the outer green skin of the bean has been removed. They cook quickly, like lentils, and are a delicious mainstay in our pantry. See Index for recipes.
Mushrooms
button mushrooms: The most commonly available mushroom in North America, these are also widely grown in Asia. Look for firm smooth mushrooms where the cap has not separated from the stem.
dried mushrooms: Also known as black mushrooms or as dried shiitakes (hed hom in Thai, nam huong in Vietnamese) these pantry staples may be beige to brown in color. Dried mushrooms have a very intense flavor and keep well if stored in a well-sealed plastic bag. They are widely available in Asian shops and in large grocery stores. They must be lightly rinsed, then soaked before using. The mushroom soaking water makes a good flavoring for soups and simmered dishes.
oyster mushrooms: Pale, almost luminous gray beige in color, these large flat-topped, asymmetrical, fragile-looking mushrooms are widely cultivated in Asia. They are now available in most large produce sections.
straw mushrooms: Widely cultivated in Asia, straw mushrooms are shaped like smooth pointed domes. They are pale beige when small, then turn a darker gray as they mature. Unfortunately, they don’t keep well, so in North America they are available only in cans; drain and rinse before using. They have a mild, slightly earthy taste and an agreeable smooth texture. tree ear mushrooms: Also known as cloud ear fungus or wood fungus (in Khmer and Thai, their name means rat ear fungus), these small dried black mushrooms are sold in Asian groceries. They are called het hoonoo in Thai and mu-er in Mandarin. Soak before using (they expand four to five times in volume once soaked) and cut off and discard any tough bits. They have a mild taste, a gelatinous surface texture, and a pleasing chewiness; they are believed to have a purifying effect on the blood.
white fungus (Tremella fruciformis): White to pale yellow, large dried pieces of white fungus look a little like dried-out sponges. White fungus is widely available in Asian groceries; it is sold in bulk or in boxes with a clear plastic window so you can see what you are buying. To use it, soak the large pieces, uncut, until tender and soft, then cut off and discard any tough parts. White fungus absorbs flavors very well and has a pleasant slightly crunchy texture, making it a good ingredient in Thai salads; see White Fungus Salad (page 79).
napa cabbage: Also known as Peking cabbage or Chinese cabbage, this green is pale green to white. It comes in heavy firm heads of tightly packed long, wide pale stems topped by crinkly edged leaves. Use raw or cooked; slice crosswise into chunks, or slice right through lengthwise if using the whole head, rather than using it leaf by leaf. Napa cabbage keeps well in the vegetable drawer of the refrigerator.
Noodles
cellophane noodles/bean threads/glass noodles: These noodles are made of processed mung beans. As sold, they’re thin and white and tough, like tough plastic string; after soaking, they soften enough to be cut. If immersed in boiling water, they soften to transparent threads. Available in 1-pound cellophane-wrapped packages in Asian markets, they keep indefinitely in a cupboard, making them a handy staple.
Chinese egg noodles: Known as bamee in Thai, these pale yellow noodles are made from wheat flour and whole eggs or egg whites and come in various widths. They are sold in Chinese groceries, either dried or fresh. (Dried have a long shelf life; fresh should be used within a day or two.) Dried egg noodles are usually sold in small tangled bundles, meant to be dropped into hot soup. Fresh noodles, either round or flat, usually come in vacuum-packed 1-pound clear plastic packages; before cooking them, rinse off the oil they are usually coated with. If you come upon a source for fresh egg noodles, buy some and try them cooked in plenty of boiling salted water like pasta. They have a wonderful flavor and texture.
dried rice noodles, rice stick: Dried rice noodles, flat, long, brittle, and semitransparent, are the dried version of fresh rice noodles or rice ribbons (see below). They come in two widths, about ⅓ inch wide and less than ¼ inch wide. They are often labeled “rice stick”; the narrower ones may be labeled “rice vermicelli.” The wider dried rice noodles are known as sen yai in Thai and banh pho in Vietnamese; the narrower ones are called sen lek in Thai and bun in Vietnamese. They’re sold in 1-pound clear plastic packages in many grocery stores and are a great pantry staple. They should be soaked for 15 minutes or so in warm water to become pliable, then stir-fried or briefly boiled in hot water or broth. When dried, they are almost transparent; they become opaque white when cooked.
fresh rice noodles, rice noodle sheets, rice noodle tubes, rice ribbon noodles, Sa-Ho noodles: Flat fresh rice noodles can be made at home (see Fresh Noodle Sheets, page 121). They are sold in 1-pound packages in Chinese and Vietnamese groceries (look in the refrigerated section, with the other noodles, and often near the tofu products). Fresh rice noodles come in many shapes, from wide and flat like very wide fettuccine to solid sheets (often labeled Sa-Ho noodles) to thick and round like fat spaghetti. They usually have a sell-by date and keep well until then if refrigerated and unopened. (They may harden slightly as the sell-by date approaches, but they soften when cooked.) Once opened, they should be used within 24 hours. To use, rinse off any oil (added to prevent the noodles from sticking to each other), slice if you wish, and then briefly heat in hot broth or water or stir-fry or steam until tender and heated through. The word for fresh rice ribbon noodles is the same in South Chinese languages as it is in Thai: guaytio.
mein/alimentary paste noodles: Plain flat Chinese noodles made of wheat flour, water, and salt, pale beige to white in color, come in several widths. You may find them fresh or dried, like pasta. They are more tender than pasta, though, and more fragile, since they are made of a softer wheat than the durum used for making pasta. If serving plain with toppings, cook in boiling salted water until just tender, then drain; if using for stir-fried noodles, rinse briefly in boiling water until tender, then stir-fry with vegetables, meat, and flavorings.
rice vermicelli: If we ever find a source for fresh rice vermicelli, we’ll be very happy. It’s one of the foods that people of Vietnam, and other parts of Southeast Asia, really miss when they live in North America. Dried rice vermicelli makes an acceptable substitute, excellent in fact, but without the soft, firm yet yielding texture of fresh rice vermicelli. Traditionally the noodles are made by soaking and grinding rice, then kneading it into a smooth batter. The batter is pushed through a perforated funnel into boiling water, making long thin round white strands, then drained. Fresh rice vermicelli, called kanom jiin in Thai and kao poon in northern Laos, is sold in village markets from Laos to Vietnam, usually in coiled bundles, known in Khmer as chavai. (See The Noodle Maker, page 142.) Thin dried rice vermicelli, like dried rice noodles, is sold in 1-pound clear plastic packages in many grocery stores, sometimes labeled “rice stick.” The noodles are fine, round creamy white strands, very dry and brittle, like spaghettini. They should be soaked for 15 minutes in warm water before being either stir-fried with flavorings or briefly cooked in boiling water or broth. (Unless you’re serving them in broth, drain the cooked noodles immediately.) If using them for deep-frying, add dried noodles directly to the hot oil, without soaking them first; when fried, they puff up to four or five times their size. Use fried rice vermicelli as a bed for stir-fried dishes or as a garnish.
okra: Okra pods, the fruit of a plant in the hibiscus family, are at their best about 1 to 1½ inches long, bright green, and tender. They are widely available in the produce sections of well-stocked groceries. Larger pods (up to 4 inches long) take longer to cook and may be a little tough. If chopped before cooking, okra will thicken a soup or sauce, for it has a soft mucilaginous interior that okra-lovers love and that the rest of the world finds slimy. Fresh tender okra has a taste a little like tender green asparagus, but slightly sweeter. Okra is widely used in the cuisines of the eastern Mediterranean, India, West Africa, the American South, and the Caribbean.
oxtails: Widely available (and inexpensive) in Vietnamese groceries, oxtails are wonderful for making beef broths and soups (see Index for recipes). They are mostly bone, with some meat attached, and come in approximately 2-inch chunks. Rinse with hot water before using.
padek: See preserved fish.
palm sugar: Palm sugar is made by boiling down the sap of the sugar palm. It has a pale golden color and a pleasing sweet and slightly smoky taste, very reminiscent of maple syrup. Brown sugar, Chinese rock sugar, or maple sugar blended half and half with white sugar can be substituted. Palm sugar is widely used in Southeast Asia, where sugar palms are common. It is sold in small round hard disks or as a paste in jars in Asian grocery stores. To use the blocks, use a cleaver or sharp knife to scrape off shavings, then add to hot liquid and stir well to melt them completely.
pandanus leaves: Sometimes shortened to “pandan” leaves, and also known in English as screw-pine leaves, these are the long (18 inches to 2 feet) sword-shaped green leaves of a Southeast Asian bush, Pandanus odorus, and, as the Latin name suggests, they are aromatic, with a mild floral scent. In Thai, they’re called bai toey hom. They are used in Thailand, Vietnam, Malaysia, and Indonesia to dye sweets green, to flavor rice, and to wrap rice before grilling or steaming. They have a perfumy flavor and are available at Southeast Asian groceries, fresh or frozen. To store, freeze, like banana leaves.
pa raa, pla raa: See preserved fish.
peanut oil: See cooking oils.
peanuts: Peanuts are widely used as a snack, as a garnish and flavoring, and as the base for sauces throughout Southeast Asia. They are very handy to have in the pantry. Large pale raw or boiled peanuts are sold in cellophane packages in Chinese and Southeast Asian groceries. Look for ones without skins. Before using them as a garnish, dry-roast them in a dry skillet over medium heat until they are pale to dark brown all over. (See Dry-Roasted Peanuts, page 308.)
pea shoots, pea sprouts, pea tendrils: The tender growing tips of green pea plants have recently become more widely available in North America. They have a fresh, slightly sweet taste. They are often sold loose in bins, in a large green tangle, especially in spring and early summer. They are characteristic of Shan and northern Thai and Lao cooking and are also widely used in China. The Shan call them pak tua noi; the Thai and Lao, yod tua lan tau. Choose fresh firm shoots, wash well, and chop; stir-fry with garlic or cook in boiling salted water for a few minutes, until tender but still bright green. Use as a vegetable, simply dressed, or add to bowls of noodle soup (see Index for recipes).
pepper, black and white (Piper nigrum): Both black and white peppercorns begin as the berry of the pepper vine. Black peppercorns are green berries that are picked, fermented, and then dried; white peppercorns are the bleached seeds of the ripe berry. White pepper has a hotter, sharper taste than black pepper, which, when freshly ground, is more aromatic and complex-tasting.
pepper leaves: Heart-shaped dark green tender leaves from a tree of the Piper family, slightly pungent in flavor, these are known in Vietnamese as la lot and in Lao as pak i leut. They are traditionally used to wrap miang, small wrapped foods (see Index for recipes), and are also the wrapping for betel nut chew, the mildly narcotic recreational drug that is chewed with pleasure by many people in India and Southeast Asia. Pepper leaves are sometimes available in Southeast Asian grocery stores, sold in small stacked bundles. Use as a salad green or for wrapping. Substitute salad greens.
pomelo: A larger-than-grapefruit-size thick-skinned citrus fruit, pomelo is occasionally available in Asian groceries. It is eaten as a snack in Southeast Asia or as an ingredient in savory salads. Grapefruit can be substituted.
poppy seeds: Gray-black poppy seeds are widely available, often used in European baking.
pork: This most widely used of meats in the Mekong region is very versatile. For most dishes, since the meat is cut into small pieces, the cut doesn’t matter; use whatever is available to you that has good flavor (pork tenderloin can be less flavorful than less expensive cuts such as shoulder or butt). Meat is rarely trimmed of all fat in the Mekong region, for the fat gives flavor and succulence, so trim your meat to your taste. (Store any trimmed pork fat in a plastic bag in the freezer. Use it as a cooking oil [see cooking oils] or as an ingredient in sausages or paté.) Sometimes we call for fresh ham, a cut from the hind leg that also has good flavor. You can substitute any other boneless cut of pork. Ground pork is perishable. Buy it already ground, or use a cleaver to chop your own; that way, you’ll know it’s fresh.
pork fat, pork lard: See cooking oils.
pork skin, pork crackling, dried pork skin shreds: In most of the Mekong region, deep-fried pork skin, also known as pork crackling, is eaten as a snack or as an accompaniment to meals, usually used to scoop up jaew (salsalike dishes) (see page 238). In Lao, it’s known as khiep moo. The skin is usually dried, then fried; as it fries, it puffs up and becomes a light, crispy golden brown. Fried pork skin is sold in Southeast Asian groceries, in small clear plastic packages (sometimes labeled with the Filipino name sitsaron); it’s also available in Mexican groceries, where it is called chicharrones. In Laos and northern Thailand, water buffalo skin is also dried, cut into small strips that look like wide tough rubber bands, and then fried; when it is fried, it puffs up, hence its name, nang bong, which means “skin grows.” Like fried pork skin, it’s eaten with salsas. Dried pork skin shreds are sold in Asian groceries for use as an ingredient in various dishes. They give texture to Vietnamese pâtés and prepared meats. In Vietnamese, they’re called bi or bi heo kho. To use, soak in warm water until softened, then chop into small pieces. Drop into boiling water for several minutes, then drain.
potato starch: Potato starch is very like cornstarch. It is used in some noodle doughs and as a thickener.
prahok: See preserved fish.
preserved fish, fermented fish: Along the middle and lower stretches of the Mekong river, and in central and southern Thailand, fermented fish, in the form of pieces of fish floating in a brine that often contains rice bran too, is used as a food and flavoring. The fish and the liquid are both used. In Khmer, the basic fermented fish sauce is called prahok; in Lao, padek; in Vietnamese, mam; in Thai, pla raa. Jars of preserved fish are sold in Vietnamese and other Southeast Asian groceries. They may be labeled “poisson en saumure” or “preserved gray featherback fish” or “preserved mudfish.” Preserved fish has a stronger taste than fish sauce (see fish sauce), but it can be substituted for fish sauce in many recipes, to taste. (Go carefully.) See also Fermented Fish, page 220.
preserved radish shreds: See salted radish.
pressed tofu: See tofu.
pumpkin: Pumpkin, that useful native of North America, is eaten as a vegetable almost all over the world except in Europe and North America. It is sold here in Caribbean and Asian groceries, usually cut into wedges and wrapped in plastic wrap. Look for smooth-textured (less fibrous) pumpkin, and pick the piece with the richest-colored flesh; it will have the best flavor. Japanese kabocha squash can be used as a substitute. See Index for recipes.
red curry paste: See curry pastes.
rendered pork fat: See cooking oils.
rice flour, sweet rice flour, glutinous rice flour: Both plain rice and sticky rice are ground into flour and sold in Asian groceries and some specialty shops. Rice flour is used for making noodles and rice papers and some sweets; it can also be used as a thickener for sauces. The flour from sticky rice will be labeled “sweet rice flour” or “glutinous rice flour.” It is softer and is used to make the dough for some sweets. In general, the flours are not interchangeable.
rice noodles: See noodles.
rice paddy herb: This Vietnamese herb, known as ngo om in Vietnamese and ma om in Khmer, has a sharp citrus taste and thick stems with small pale green leaves. It is used in Vietnamese sour soup and in some Khmer dishes. You’ll find it in Vietnamese groceries, often sold together with sawtooth herb, and in some other Southeast Asian stores.
rice papers: Known in Vietnamese as banh trang, these dried semitransparent sheets are made from rice flour and water and sun-dried. They’re a very useful and versatile pantry item, since they keep well and can be used for roll-your-own meals or for classic Vietnamese roll-ups. Rice papers come as rounds or as wedge shapes (a quarter of a round) and are sold in many grocery stores as well as in Asian markets. We prefer the thinner, finer ones, since they soften more quickly and are more tender. Rice papers carry the pattern of the bamboo mat on which they were dried. Since they’re very brittle until moistened, plan on a few extra to allow for breakage. To use, moisten in lukewarm water until soft, then lay flat on a lettuce leaf or on a wet cloth placed on a work surface, and use to wrap other ingredients. See Index for recipes.
rice sticks: See dried rice noodles, under noodles.
rice vermicelli: See noodles.
rice vinegar: See vinegar.
river weed, dried river weed, dried algae, freshwater algae: In Laos and northern Thailand, fresh algae from the rivers is harvested in late November and December, then sundried. It is eaten stir-fried and flavored with hot oil, or it may be dried and pressed into crisp sheets. River weed is known as khai in Lao, salai in Thai, and dao’ in Shan. The dried sheets of river weed, almost black and looking like Japanese nori, though a little thicker and flavored with sesame seeds, are called khai pen. They are now being imported into North America and sold as “kaipen.” They can be cut up and toasted or fried, then used as a topping for rice or noodles. For more, see River Weed, page 164.
roasted sesame oil: See sesame oil.
round eggplant: See eggplant.
rose water: Available from Middle Eastern and Asian groceries, and sometimes in specialty shops, rose water is an aromatic flavoring liquid used for making sweets. A little goes a long way, so don’t add more than the recipe calls for. It keeps indefinitely in the cupboard.
sakhan: The woody stem of a kind of Piper tree, sakhan is used in Luang Prabang cooking to give a bitter taste in stewed dishes, particularly in the class of dishes known as oaw’ lam. Peel before using.
salt, kosher salt, sea salt: In Southeast Asia, salt may be extracted from the sea or from salt wells, so the type of salt used depends on what is available in the area. Salt is very important in Southeast Asia for brining and preserving vegetables and fish so they can be eaten year-round. We use sea salt or kosher salt for cooking and flavoring, kosher salt for pickles (when you want just straight salt with no extra flavors). For making pepper-salt, we usually use sea salt, for it has a more complex flavor. Compare the taste of different salts; you may be astonished at the range of flavors.
salted radish: Sometimes labeled “preserved turnip,” salted radish is sold in small plastic packages in Southeast Asian and Chinese groceries. It is a pale beige-white clump of shreds, either dry or in a little liquid. Once it’s open, store in a well-sealed plastic bag in the refrigerator. Salted radish is salty and intensetasting; rinse it off or soak it briefly before using. It adds flavor and a little crunch to pad thai and other stir-fried dishes. In Thai, it’s known as hua pakkad kem.
Savoy cabbage: This is the common pale green cabbage of Europe, round and firm, with a slightly frilled edge to its tightly packed leaves; substitute any head cabbage. Smaller heads tend to be sweeter and more tender.
sawtooth herb: This long fresh green leaf with serrated edges and a tender texture is widely used in Vietnamese cooking, especially as a last-minute flavoring for soups. (A close cousin is used in Mexican and Puerto Rican cooking and is known as Mexican or Puerto Rican coriander or, in some places, culantro.) It has a pleasing, corianderlike taste. In Vietnamese it’s called ngo gai (ngo means “coriander,” gai means “thorny”) and you’ll often be able to find it in Southeast Asian groceries; substitute coriander if you can’t find it. In Khmer it’s jii banla’. In Lao it’s usually called pakchi farang; in the Luang Prabang area, it’s known as hom pen.
scallions: Also known as green onions, or spring onions, these are widely available in supermarkets. Throughout Southeast Asia they are eaten both cooked and raw, and both the green leaves and the white bulb are used. In central Laos, the green leaves are frequently used as a garnish or topping, sometimes mixed with coriander leaves (the mixture is often referred to as hom or pak hom, meaning “aromatics”). Scallions are also part of the bundle of aromatics sold in markets in Cambodia and known as chmoi. Recipe instructions often call for smashing scallions. Use the flat side of a cleaver or a large knife to smash the scallions flat, then slice lengthwise or crosswise as called for. Smashing helps the scallions cook more quickly and evenly and also helps release flavors. In Khmer, scallions are selak tum; in Thai, ton hom.
sea salt: See salt.
sesame oil: Roasted sesame oil (the most reliable widely available brand is Kadoya) is used as a flavoring in many Chinese and Japanese dishes. It is sometimes referred to as Asian sesame oil. The sesame seeds are roasted before the oil is pressed, giving it a brown color and a distinctive and delicious nutty taste. Store in a cool place. Do not substitute plain (unroasted) sesame oil.
sesame seeds: Available hulled and unhulled, beige (white) or black, sesame seeds are rich in oil and so should be stored in the refrigerator, to prevent them from turning rancid. Sesame seeds are pressed for their oil. In cooking, they are most often dry-roasted in a hot skillet (see Dry-Roasted Sesame Seeds, page 308) before being used as a topping or garnish for both savory and sweet dishes.
shallots: Shallots are members of the same family as onions and garlic. They are an essential ingredient in Southeast Asian food, especially in Laos and northern Thailand. In Lao, they’re called mo hom daeng; in Thai, hom lek. Shallots look like reddish bulbs, with a fine reddish-brown papery outer layer, under which the shallots themselves may be tinged with purple. They often come in a cluster of two or three. Peel before using. Asian shallots are generally smaller than European-style shallots. In grocery stores, you’ll generally find the large ones, while the smaller Asian shallots are widely available in Asian markets. Some Asian shallots are really tiny, with a distinctive mauve tint on the bulb. In the recipes, we give quantities for both large and small shallots and also often give cup measurements.
Shanghai bok choi: See bok choi.
shrimp paste: Known in Thai and Khmer as kapi and in Vietnamese as mam tom or mam ruoc, shrimp paste is a concentrated flavoring made of fermented salted shrimp. The paste comes in many shades, from dull pink to gray, and is available in most Asian grocery stores. The most reliable brands we’ve found are those made in Thailand. Shrimp paste is a necessary ingredient in many curry pastes. It is also used in Malay cooking and is known in Malaysia and Indonesia as trassi. Shrimp paste must be cooked before using. Our usual method is to wrap a little in foil, then dry-roast it in a skillet or grill it over a flame. Though it gives off pungent fumes while it is being toasted (hence the wrapping in foil), once cooked, it adds a wonderful subtle salty, smoky taste. Wrap it well after opening and refrigerate.
Sichuan pepper (Zanthoxylum piperitum): The small berry of the prickly ash, Sichuan pepper is one of the oldest spices used in Chinese cooking. It gives a numbing warmth to the mouth and has a pleasing aromatic taste. In Japan, its close cousin, from the Japanese prickly ash, is called sansho; in English, Sichuan pepper is sometimes referred to as fagara. Sichuan pepper comes as small reddish-brown husks (dried berries), with some shiny black seeds inside. The flavor is in the husks; the seeds are very bitter. To use, dry-roast to bring out the flavor, then grind in a spice mill or mortar. If you are a perfectionist, you will want to take the trouble to pick out and discard the little black seeds; we usually don’t bother. Sichuan pepper is used on its own during cooking, and is also used as part of the condiment known as “pepper-salt.” See Index for recipes.
soybean paste/soybean sauce: See fermented soybean paste.
soy sauce: Soy sauce is the liquid produced when soybeans are brewed with wheat and salt. (Tamari is a kind of soy sauce that uses no wheat in the brewing process; we do not call for it in this book.) We use Kikkoman brand soy sauce, either regular or, for dipping sauces, the lighter, fresher-tasting reduced-sodium soy sauce. Pearl River soy sauce also has good flavor, though not quite as clear a taste. Avoid nonbrewed soy sauces, which are just harsh-tasting salty liquids. You can really taste the difference.
star anise (Illicum verum): This beautiful warm-brown star-shaped spice is sold in Asian markets and specialty shops. It tastes like licorice or aniseed and is used whole (in the same way as cinnamon sticks are) to flavor soups such as Hearty Vietnamese Beef Noodle Soup (pho bo, page 128) and some simmered beef dishes, such as Hui Beef Stew with Chick-peas and Anise (page 231).
star fruit: Also known as carambola, star fruit comes in tart and sweet versions. Both are pale green to yellow in color, with deep ridges that, when the fruit is sliced crosswise, make a star shape. Star fruit is used to give a tart or acid taste in a number of southern Vietnamese salads and savory dishes (see Index for recipes). The sweet variety, sliced, makes a decorative addition to sweet desserts.
sticky rice, glutinous rice, sweet rice: Medium- to long-grain sticky rice is a staple food in Laos and northern and northeastern Thailand. It is a different variety of rice, very low in amylose and high in amylopectin, that cooks to an agreeable sticky yet not mushy texture. It is usually eaten out of hand, rather than with utensils. Thai-Lao sticky rice must be soaked before being steamed over (not in) boiling water. Sticky rice is available in Southeast Asian groceries, in well-stocked grocery stores, and by mail-order. Be sure you buy rice grown in Thailand or Laos, not short-grain Chinese or American sweet rices, for use in the recipes in this book (see Index).
Swatow mustard: See Chinese mustard greens.
sweetened condensed milk: Available in cans from most groceries, sweetened condensed milk is cooked-down milk that can be stored without refrigeration and is thus widely used in the tropics.
sweet rice: See sticky rice.
tamarind, tamarind pulp, tamarind paste: The pulp of the tamarind pod, dissolved in water, is used to give a sour taste in many Southeast Asian, Indian, and Georgian dishes. (It is also used to make wonderfully intense sour-sweet candies, especially in Vietnam.) Tamarind is called mak kham in Lao and Thai, am peuhl in Khmer, and me chua in Vietnamese. It is a dark brown, almost black, sticky fibrous mass of seeds and pulp and is sold in small cellophane-wrapped blocks in Asian grocery stores. It keeps almost indefinitely in the refrigerator, well wrapped in plastic to prevent it from drying out. Tamarind pulp must be dissolved in water and then strained through a sieve, as described in the recipes. If you can find only tamarind paste (sometimes labeled “tamarind concentrate”), reduce the quantity called for by half and dissolve in water as directed. We prefer the pulp because the flavor is more reliable; the concentrate often tastes metallic.
tapioca, tapioca pearls, tapioca starch/tapioca flour: Tapioca is produced from the cassava plant, a starchy root vegetable that grows well even in poor soil. Tapioca pearls and tapioca flour are available in Southeast Asian markets. Tapioca pearls are small round granules made of tapioca starch; they come in small and larger sizes, the small ones being most commonly used in Southeast Asian desserts, the larger being more commonly used in Europe. Small tapioca pearls are sold in Southeast Asian markets, either white or dyed pink or yellow or pale green. Tapioca pearls are first soaked in warm water, then boiled until tender; sugar must not be added until they are cooked, for it prevents them from softening. Tapioca starch, also sometimes known as tapioca flour, is finely ground and very powdery. It is used as a thickener and is also an ingredient in some rice noodles and rice wrappers.
Thai dried red chiles: See chiles.
Thai eggplant: See eggplant.
Thai jasmine rice: See aromatic jasmine rice.
Tofu
Many products are made from processed soybeans. The list below includes only those mentioned in this book. All are available in Chinese and Southeast Asian groceries, in the refrigerated section. All should be stored in the refrigerator, and none keeps for very long. You can also freeze tofu products; they change their texture but remain delicious and useful pantry staples.
fresh tofu/bean curd, firm tofu, silky tofu: White blocks of fresh tofu, or bean curd, are made by cooking soybeans, grinding them, pressing out the liquid, and then adding a coagulant (as is done in cheese making) to get the liquid to set into a dense block with a custard texture. Chinese fresh tofu is firm and smooth; blocks vary in size, but are usually about 3 inches square and 1½ inches thick and weigh about 6 ounces. A finer, more custardlike tofu is sold in Japanese stores; often referred to as silky tofu, it usually comes in smaller 2-inch square blocks. It’s especially suited to desserts. Doufu hua, sometimes called bean jelly, is the Chinese name for soft tofu that has a more custardlike texture; it comes in loose curds, not in blocks. Fresh tofu is stored in water in the refrigerator; change the water every day. Freeze any that you can’t use within 3 days.
pressed tofu/firm tofu/doufu gan: When fresh tofu is pressed under a weight, it firms up and compresses as the water drains out and then has the consistency of firm fresh cheese. Known as doufu gan (“dry tofu”) in Mandarin, dauhu leong in Thai, and dau hi ki in Vietnamese, pressed tofu is available in Asian groceries. You can also make your own: Wrap several blocks of fresh tofu in cheesecloth, place on a flat surface, and top with a plate weighted with a 2- to 5-pound weight. Pour off the water as it drains out; after 8 to 12 hours, the tofu will be firm and fairly dry. It can be sliced and stir-fried, or eaten without cooking, just dressed with a little oyster sauce or dark soy and some chopped scallion greens. See Index for recipes.
tuong: The Vietnamese word for sauce/condiment (tuong ot tuoi is chile paste, for example), tuong is more specifically used to name fermented soybean sauce (see above).
turmeric: We all know the bright yellow orange of turmeric powder, but fresh turmeric has only recently become available here, in Southeast Asian groceries. Ask for nghe in Vietnamese, khamin in Thai. It is used in curry pastes and spice pastes. A member of the ginger family, turmeric is a small rhizome (about the size of a little finger) with a thin tawny-orange skin, bright orange flesh, and a hot gingery taste. The juice stains fingers and clothing.
vegetable oils: See cooking oils.
Vinegar
Vinegar is distilled from grains or fruit. Its acidity varies, with wine vinegars generally having a higher acidity (as much as 7 percent) than rice vinegars (which range from 3½ to 4½ percent acetic acid).
black rice vinegar: Almost black in color, manufactured in China, and sold here in tall bottles, black rice vinegar has a smoky, slightly sweet flavor; a mild balsamic vinegar can be substituted. Chinese black vinegars may also be made from wheat or sorghum or millet.
brown rice vinegar: A pale brown Japanese vinegar (called genmai su in Japanese) made from brown rice, this has a mild flavor with a little more depth than white rice vinegar.
cider vinegar: Widely available, made from fermented apples, this can be substituted for rice vinegar in a pinch.
white rice vinegar: Japanese white rice vinegars, mild-tasting and reliable, are a staple in our pantry. There are many good brands. Make sure you don’t buy a vinegar that is marked “seasoned”; you don’t want the salt and sugar already added to your vinegar.
Vietnamese coriander: Known as pakchi wietnam in Thai and Lao (or sometimes pak payo in Lao), as rau ram in Vietnamese, and daun kesom in Malay, this perennial herb is also known as Polygonum (its botanical name). It is one of our favorites, with a strong distinctive flavor (in the same way that both Asian basil and coriander are strong-tasting). It has narrow pointed tender leaves, medium to dark green, sometimes with a darker green marking in the center; the leaves alternate along the succulent stems. To use, tear the leaves off the stem, then use them whole or coarsely torn. Vietnamese coriander is particularly good with chicken or fish. It is now widely available in Vietnamese and other Southeast Asian groceries. If you put several stems in water, it will root quickly. Once the roots are well grown, you can plant it. We grow Vietnamese coriander in the house in a pot during the winter, then set it out in the garden during the warm summer weather; it needs plenty of water.
water spinach: Also known as swamp cabbage, aquatic morning glory, or water convolvulus, this green has long hollow stems and pointed arrowhead-shaped leaves. Its Latin name is Ipomoea aquatica. There are two similar versions, one that grows in damp soil and one that grows in water; the former is more widely available in North America. Known as pak boong in Thai, pak bong in Lao, and rau muang in Vietnamese, water spinach is widely available in Asian markets. It is traditionally stir-fried with a little garlic in a very hot wok, tossed until the stems are limp, then seasoned with fish sauce or salt and served immediately.
white fungus: See mushrooms.
white radish: See daikon.
wild lime, wild lime leaves: Also known as kaffir lime, the wild lime (Citrus hystrix) has green fruit with a lumpy, wrinkled skin. (Kaffir is a derogatory term; we avoid the word.) The zest of the fruit is used in curry pastes; regular lime zest can be substituted. The leaves, double-lobed, dark green, and shiny, are aromatic and are used as a savory flavoring, much as bay leaves are used in Western cooking. Lime leaves freeze very well, so when you find them, buy plenty, then wrap in plastic wrap and freeze. Avoid dried lime leaves.
winged beans (Psophocarpus tetrogonolobus): Although these beans originated in southern Europe, they are now sold mostly in Asian grocery stores. They have long frilled edges running the length of the bean and are bright green in color. Tender and slightly sweet-tasting, winged beans are widely used in South Indian and Thai cooking. The Thai name is tua plu; in English, they are sometimes called asparagus beans (somewhat confusingly, since so are yard-longs!; see below).
yard-long beans/long beans/asparagus beans: These 18-inch-long slender green beans are the pods of the cow pea (Vigna sesquipedelis). They grow in temperate and tropical climates and are now widely available in Asian groceries, sold in bundles. There are two kinds, one pale green and the other a darker green. We like both kinds. Try to find firm, fresh-looking beans. In Southeast Asia, long beans are eaten raw or cooked. They are known in Thai as tua fak yao; in Vietnamese as dau dua; in Cantonese as dau gok; and in Khmer as sangdek khoua. See Index for recipes.