Green Sleeves

Teva Durham

Inspired by an unusual crisscross shrug in a photograph of runway fashion, Teva Durham tried draping fabric around her body until she understood how to achieve a similar effect. Then she got out her needles and experimented with textured stitch patterns. The result is a pair of “sleeves” joined by an extended “back,” worked in a lofty honeycomb stitch. To complete the look, Teva added a simple ribbed tank under the cozy wrap. To put it on, drape the center part of the wrap across your back (as for a shawl), cross the “sleeves” in front of your body, then insert your arms into the cuffs—like magic, the piece stays in place.

FINISHED SIZE

Shrug: Center section about 20" (51 cm) wide and 60" (152.5 cm) long; Attached sleeves: 10½" (26.6 cm) circumference at cuff, 14½" (37 cm) circumference at upper edge, and 12" (30.5 cm) long.

Shell: 20" (51 cm) bust/chest circumference with rib relaxed. Note: Shell fabric will stretch to fit up to a 38" (96.5-cm) bust/chest for a very close, body-conscious fit.

YARN

About 950 yd (870 m) of worsted-weight (Medium #4) yarn for shrug and 380 yd (347 m) of worsted-weight (Medium #4) yarn for shell.

We used: Jaeger Extra Fine Merino Aran (100% merino; 95 yd [87 m]/50 g): #544 laurel green, 10 balls for shrug and 4 balls for shell.

NEEDLES

Shrug—Size 8 (5 mm): straight. Shell—Size 6 (4 mm): 24" (60-cm) circular (cir). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.

NOTIONS

Markers (m); tapestry needle; size E/4 (3.5 mm) crochet hook for shell ties.

GAUGE

10 sts and 27 rows = 4" (10 cm) in honeycomb st on size 8 (5 mm) needles; 28 sts and 27 rows = 4" (10 cm) in k1, p1 rib on size 6 (4 mm) needles, unstretched.

STITCH GUIDE

Honeycomb Stitch: (even number sts)

Row 1: (WS) *K1, knit into st in row below next st on needle allowing the loop on the needle to unravel down to the new st; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.

Row 2: (RS) Rep Row 1.

Rows 3 and 4: K2, *knit into st in row below next st on needle allowing the loop on the needle to unravel down to the new st, k1; rep from *.

Repeat Rows 1–4 for pattern.


NOTES

  • To customize the length of the shrug, work the center section to about 2" (5 cm) short of the measurement given in the pattern. With the center section still on the needles, drape the piece around your shoulders and cross the ends in front. The ends should reach to each elbow when slightly stretched. Add the necessary number of rows to achieve the desired length. Be aware that you may need more yarn if you want your shrug much longer than the one shown.
  • The following guidelines will help you work the honeycomb stitch pattern. On wrong-side Rows 1 and 3, knit into the row below for each stitch that was knit below on the previous row (leaving the stitch holding a “bundle” of three floats); knit normally each stitch that appears as an ordinary purl stitch. On right-side Rows 2 and 4, knit into the row below for each stitch that appears as an ordinary purl stitch; knit normally any stitch that is holding a bundle of three floats. Always knit normally the first and last stitches of every row for selvedge sts.
  • As you work each row of honeycomb stitch, spread the stitches out along the needle and tug downward gently to encourage the stitches worked in the row below to unravel and settle into the honeycombs. Always measure each piece after stretching, with the floats unraveled to their full length.

SHRUG

Center section

With size 8 (5 mm) needles, CO 50 sts. Purl 1 row. Beg with Row 2 (RS), work Rows 2–4 of honeycomb patt (see page 29) once, then rep Row 1–4 until piece measures 60" (152.5 cm) from beg, ending with Row 2 or 4 (RS). Add or subtract rows if necessary to achieve a custom fit (see Notes, page 29). With WS facing, BO all sts pwise.

The possibilities for wrap constructions are as endless as your imagination.

SLEEVES (make 2)

With size 8 (5 mm) needles, CO 26 sts. Purl 1 row. Beg with Row 2 (RS), work Rows 2–4 of honeycomb patt once, then rep Rows 1–4, and at the same time, beg with the first RS row, inc 1 st each end of needle every 12th row 5 times total—36 sts. Cont even in patt until piece measures 12" (30.5 cm) from beg, ending with a RS row. With WS facing, BO all sts as if to purl.

FINISHING

With yarn threaded on a tapestry needle, sew the BO edge of each sleeve to a short edge of center section, easing center section to fit. Sew sleeve seams. Weave in ends. Block lightly only if necessary, taking care not to flatten the honeycomb patt.

SHELL

With size 6 (4 mm) cir needle, CO 140 sts. Place marker (pm), and join for working in the rnd, being careful not to twist sts. Work k1, p1 rib until piece measures 12½" (31.5 cm) from beg.

Shape armholes and neck: BO 71 sts in rib for back, work rib to end—69 sts rem for front. Mark the 35th st with a removable marker or safety pin to indicate the center front st. Cont working k1, p1 rib back and forth in rows and work short-rows (see Glossary, page 154) as foll:

Short-Row 1: (WS) Work in established rib to last 2 sts, wrap next st, turn.

Short-Row 2: (RS) Rep Short-Row 1—1 st wrapped at each end of needle.

Short-Row 3: Work in rib to 2 sts before last wrap, wrap next st, turn.

Short-Rows 4–7: Rep Short-Row 3 four times—4 wrapped sts at beg of RS rows (left side); 3 sts wrapped at end of RS rows (right side).

Short-Row 8: (RS) Work in rib to 2 sts before marked center front st, wrap next st, turn.

Short-Row 9: Rep Short-Row 3—1 wrapped st at center left front; 5 wrapped sts at left side.

Short-Row 10: Work in rib to 2 sts before wrapped st at left front, wrap next st, turn.

Short-Row 11: Rep Short-Row 3—2 wrapped sts at left front; 6 wrapped sts at left side.

Short-Rows 12–14: Rep Short-Rows 10 and 11 once, then work Short-Row 10 again—4 wrapped sts at center left front; 7 wrapped sts at left side.

Cut yarn, leaving a 4-yd (4-meter) tail to use later for strap. Leave sts on needle. With RS still facing, rejoin yarn to beg of right front sts—3 sts already wrapped at end of RS rows for right side. Work short-rows for right side as foll to reverse shaping:

Short-Row 8: (RS) Rep Short-Row 3—4 wrapped sts at right side.

Short-Row 9: Work in rib to 2 sts before marked center front st, wrap next st, turn.

Short-Row 10: Rep Short-Row 3—1 wrapped st at right front; 5 wrapped sts at right side.

Short-Row 11: Work in rib to 2 sts before wrapped st at right front, wrap next st, turn.

Short-Rows 12–15: Rep Short-Rows 10 and 11 twice—4 wrapped sts at center right front; 7 wrapped sts at right side.

Cut yarn, leaving another 4-yd (4-meter) tail. Rejoin yarn to beg of left side sts, ready to work a RS row. BO across all sts loosely in rib, working wrapped sts tog with their wraps as you go.

Combine different stitch patterns for rich texture variations.

FINISHING

Straps: With crochet hook and using long tails left at the top point of each front, work a crochet chain (see Glossary, page 148) about 21" (53.5 cm) long. Fasten off and tie an overhand knot at the end of each chain. Weave in loose ends. Wear with straps tied together at back neck, halter style.