Map: Stockholm: City of Islands
Map: Stockholm’s Gamla Stan Walk
Nightlife and Entertainment in Stockholm
Map: Stockholm Hotels & Restaurants
Map: Gamla Stan Hotels & Restaurants
If I had to call one European city home, it might be Stockholm. One-third water, one-third parks, one-third city, on the sea, surrounded by woods, bubbling with energy and history, Sweden’s stunning capital is green, clean, and underrated.
The city is built on a string of islands connected by bridges. Its location midway along the Baltic Sea, behind the natural fortification of its archipelago, made it a fine port, vital to the economy and security of the Swedish peninsula. In the 1500s, Stockholm became a political center when Gustav Vasa established the monarchy (1523). A century later, the expansionist King Gustavus Adolphus made it an influential European capital. The Industrial Revolution brought factories and a flood of farmers from the countryside. In the 20th century, the fuming smokestacks were replaced with steel-and-glass Modernist buildings housing high-tech workers and an expanding service sector.
Today, with more than two million people in the greater metropolitan area (one in five Swedes), Stockholm is Sweden’s largest city, as well as its cultural, educational, and media center. It’s also the country’s most ethnically diverse city. Despite its size, Stockholm is committed to limiting its environmental footprint. Development is strictly monitored, and pollution-belching cars must pay a toll to enter the city. If there’s a downside to Stockholm, it’s that the city feels super-wealthy (even its Mac-toting hipsters), sometimes snobby, and a bit sure of itself. Stockholm rivals Oslo in expense, and beats it in pretense.
For the visitor, Stockholm offers both old and new. Crawl through Europe’s best-preserved old warship and relax on a scenic harbor boat tour. Browse the cobbles and antique shops of the lantern-lit Old Town. Take a trip back in time at Skansen, Europe’s first and best open-air folk museum. Marvel at Stockholm’s glittering City Hall, slick shopping malls, and art museums. (Even “also ran” museums in this city rank high on the European scale.) Explore the funky vibrancy of the hipster/foodie/design-forward Södermalm district.
While progressive and sleek, Stockholm respects its heritage. In summer, military bands parade daily through the heart of town to the Royal Palace, announcing the Changing of the Guard and turning even the most dignified tourist into a scampering kid.
With extra time, travelers can consider several Stockholm side-trips, including the nearby royal residence, Drottningholm Palace; the cute town of Sigtuna; or the university town of Uppsala, with its grand cathedral and Iron Age mounds (see the Near Stockholm chapter). Stockholm is also an ideal home base for cruising to island destinations in the city’s archipelago (see Stockholm’s Archipelago chapter).
On a two- to three-week trip through Scandinavia, Stockholm is worth two days. For the busiest and best two- to three-day plan, I’d suggest this:
Day 1: 10:00—See the Vasa warship (movie and tour); 12:00—Visit the Nordic Museum; 13:30—Tour the Skansen open-air museum and grab lunch there; 16:00—Ride the boat (or tram #7) to Nybroplan and follow my self-guided walk through the modern city from Kungsträdgården; 18:30—Take the Royal Canal boat tour (confirm last sailing time, no boats Jan-March).
Day 2: 10:00—Ride one of the city orientation bus tours (either the hop-on, hop-off or the 1.25-hour bus tour from the Royal Opera House), or take the City Hall tour and climb its tower; 12:15—Catch the Changing of the Guard at the palace (13:15 on Sun); 13:00—Lunch on Stortorget; 14:00—Tour the Royal Armory (and, if time and budget allow, the Nobel Museum and/or Royal Palace sights), and follow my Old Town self-guided walk; 18:30—Explore Södermalm for dinner—it’s just across the locks from Gamla Stan—or take a harbor dinner cruise.
Day 3: With an extra day, add a cruise through the scenic island archipelago (easy to do from Stockholm), visit the royal palace at Drottningholm, take a side-trip to charming Sigtuna or Uppsala (see next two chapters), or spend more time in Stockholm (there’s plenty left to do and experience).
Greater Stockholm’s two million residents live on 14 islands woven together by 54 bridges. Visitors need only concern themselves with these districts, most of which are islands:
Norrmalm is downtown, with most of the hotels and shopping areas, and the combined train and bus station. Östermalm, to the east, is more residential.
Kungsholmen, the mostly suburban island across from Norrmalm, is home to City Hall and inviting lakefront eateries.
Gamla Stan is the Old Town island of winding, lantern-lit streets, antiques shops, and classy cafés clustered around the Royal Palace. The adjacent Riddarholmen is similarly atmospheric, but much sleepier. The locks between Lake Mälaren (to the west) and the Baltic Sea (to the east) are at a junction called Slussen, just south of Gamla Stan on the way to Södermalm.
Skeppsholmen is the small, central, traffic-free park/island with the Museum of Modern Art and two fine youth hostels.
Djurgården is the park-island—Stockholm’s wonderful green playground, with many of the city’s top sights (bike rentals just over bridge as you enter island).
Södermalm, just south of the other districts, is sometimes called “Stockholm’s Brooklyn”—young, creative, and trendy. Apart from its fine views and some good eateries, this residential island may be of less interest to those on a quick visit.
Stockholm has two TI organizations, one far better than the other. The helpful city-run TI—called Visit Stockholm—has two branches. The main office is downtown in the Kulturhuset, facing Sergels Torg (Mon-Fri 9:00-19:00—until 18:00 off-season, Sat 9:00-16:00, Sun 10:00-16:00, Sergels Torg 3, T-bana: T-Centralen, tel. 08/5082-8508, www.visitstockholm.com). They also have a branch at the airport, in Terminal 5, where most international flights arrive (long hours daily, tel. 08/797-6000). The efficient staff provides free city maps, the glossy Stockholm Guide booklet that introduces the city, the monthly What’s On leaflet, Stockholm Cards (described later), transportation passes, day-trip and bus-tour information and tickets, and a room-booking service (small fee). Take a number as you enter, or avoid the wait by looking up sightseeing details on one of the user-friendly computer terminals (they can also give you the code for free Wi-Fi).
Around town, you’ll also see the green i logo of the other “tourist information” service, Stockholm Info, run by a for-profit agency. While less helpful than the official TI, they hand out maps and brochures, sell Stockholm Cards, and may be able to answer basic questions (locations include train station’s main hall, Gamla Stan, and Gallerian mall).
Stockholm Card: This 24-hour pass includes all public transit, entry to almost every sight (80 attractions), plus some free or discounted tours for 525 kr. An added bonus is the substantial pleasure of doing everything without considering the cost (many of Stockholm’s sights are worth the time but not the money). The card pays for itself if you use public transportation and see Skansen, the Vasa Museum, and Drottningholm Palace. You can stretch it by entering Skansen on your 24th hour. A child’s pass (age 7-17) costs about 60 percent less. The Stockholm Card also comes in 48-hour (675 kr), 72-hour (825 kr), and 120-hour (1,095 kr) versions. Cards are sold at the Visit Stockholm TIs, the unofficial Stockholm Info offices, many hotels and hostels, larger subway stations, and at www.visitstockholm.com.
Stockholm’s adjacent train (Centralstation) and bus (Cityterminalen) stations, at the southwestern edge of Norrmalm, are a hive of services (including an unofficial Stockholm Info “TI”), eateries, shops, exchange desks, and people on the move. From the train station, the bus station is up the escalators from the main hall and through the glassy atrium (lined with sales desks for bus companies and cruise lines). Those sailing to Finland or Estonia can catch a shuttle bus to the port from the bus terminal. Underground is the T-Centralen subway (T-bana) station—probably the easiest way to reach your hotel. Taxi stands are outside. The best way to connect the city and its airport is via the Arlanda Express shuttle train, which leaves from tracks 1 and 2 (follow Arlanda Express/airport train signs through the station; see below).
Stockholm’s Arlanda Airport is 28 miles north of town (airport code: ARN, tel. 08/797-6000, www.arlanda.se). The airport TI (described earlier) can advise you on getting into Stockholm and on your sightseeing plans.
Getting Between the Airport and Downtown: The airport train, the Arlanda Express, is the fastest way to zip between the airport and the central train station. Traveling most of the way at 125 mph, it gets you downtown in just 20 minutes—but it’s not cheap (260 kr one-way, 490 kr round-trip, free for kids under age 17 with adult, covered by rail pass; generally 4/hour—departing at :05, :20, :35, and :50 past the hour in each direction; toll-free tel. 020-222-224, www.arlandaexpress.com). Buy your ticket either at the window near the track or from a ticket-vending machine, or pay an extra 100 kr to buy it on board. In summer and on weekends, a special fare lets two people travel for nearly half-price (two for 280 kr one-way, available daily mid-June-Aug, Thu-Sun year-round).
Airport shuttle buses (Flygbussarna) run between the airport and Stockholm’s train/bus stations (119 kr, 6/hour, 40 minutes, may take longer at rush hour, buy tickets from station kiosks or at airport TI, www.flygbussarna.se).
Taxis between the airport and the city center take 30-40 minutes (about 520 kr, depends on company, look for price printed on side of cab). Establish the price first. Reputable taxis accept credit cards.
The cheapest airport connection is to take bus #583 from the airport to Märsta, then switch to the pendeltåg (suburban train, 4/hour), which goes to Stockholm’s central train station (72 kr, 1 hour total journey time, covered by Stockholm Card).
Some discount airlines use Skavsta Airport, about 60 miles south of Stockholm (airport code: NYO, www.skavsta.se). Flygbussarna shuttle buses connect to the city (159 kr, cheaper if you buy online in advance, about 1-2/hour—generally timed to meet arriving flights, 80 minutes, www.flygbussarna.se).
For details on arriving in Stockholm by cruise ship, see here. For information on Stockholm’s ferry terminals, see here for boats to Tallinn, or here for boats to Helsinki.
Only a Swedish meatball would drive a car in Stockholm. Park it and use public transit instead. The TI has a Parking in Stockholm brochure. Those sailing to Finland or Estonia should ask about long-term parking at the terminal when reserving tickets; to minimize the risk of theft and vandalism, pay extra for the most secure parking garage.
Theft Alert: Even in Stockholm, when there are crowds, there are pickpockets (such as at the Royal Palace during the Changing of the Guard). Too-young-to-arrest teens—many from other countries—are hard for local police to control.
Emergency Assistance: In case of an emergency, dial 112.
Medical Help: For around-the-clock medical advice, call 1177. The C. W. Scheele 24-hour pharmacy is near the train station at Klarabergsgatan 64 (tel. 08/454-8130).
English Bookstore: The aptly named English Bookshop, in Gamla Stan, sells a variety of reading materials (including Swedish-interest books) in English (Mon-Fri 10:00-18:30, Sat 10:00-16:00, Sun 12:00-15:00, Lilla Nygatan 11, tel. 08/790-5510).
Laundry: Tvättomaten is a rare find—the only independent launderette in Stockholm (self-service-100 kr/load, 48-hour full-service-200 kr/load—bring it in early and you can get it back at the end of the day; open Mon-Fri 8:30-18:30—until 17:00 in July-mid-Aug, Sat 9:30-13:00, closed Sun; across from Gustav Vasa church, Västmannagatan 61 on Odenplan, T-bana: Odenplan, tel. 08/346-480, www.tvattomaten.com).
Updates to This Book: For updates to this book, check www.ricksteves.com/update.
Stockholm’s fine but pricey public transport network (officially Storstockholms Lokaltrafik—but signed as SL) includes subway (Tunnelbana, called “T-bana”) and bus systems, and a single handy tram from the commercial center to the sights at Djurgården. It’s a spread-out city, so most visitors will need public transport at some point (transit info tel. 08/600-1000, press * for English, www.sl.se/english). The subway is easy to figure out, but many sights are better served by bus. The main lines are listed on the back of the official city map. A more detailed system map is posted around town and available free from subway ticket windows and SL info desks in main stations. Check out the modern public art in the subway (such as at Kungsträdgården Station).
Tickets: A single ride for subway, tram, or bus costs 36 kr (up to 1.25 hours, including transfers); a 24-hour pass is 115 kr, while a 72-hour pass is 230 kr. Tickets are sold on the tram, but not on board buses—buy one before you board.
You can choose whether to buy paper tickets or get an SL-Access fare card. Paper tickets are sold at the Pressbyrån newsstands scattered throughout the city, inside almost every T-bana station, and at some transit-ticket offices (all SL ticket-sellers are clearly marked with a blue flag with the SL logo); they are not available at self-service machines.
Locals and savvy tourists carry a blue SL-Access card, which you touch against the blue pad to enter the T-bana turnstile or when boarding a bus or tram. If planning to use public transit for more than a few rides, the card can save you money (200 kr for 8 rides, 20-kr deposit for card). You can top up your card at self-service machines (US credit cards work if you know your PIN). Cards are good for several years, so you can pass it along or save it for a return trip.
In summer, ferries let you make a fun, practical, and scenic shortcut across the harbor to Djurgården Island. Boats leave from Slussen (at the south end of Gamla Stan), docking near the Gröna Lund amusement park on Djurgården (45 kr, covered by public-transit passes, 3-4/hour, May-mid-Sept only, 10-minute trip, tel. 08/679-5830, www.waxholmsbolaget.se). On some runs, this ferry also stops near the Museum of Modern Art on Skeppsholmen Island. The Nybro ferry makes the five-minute journey from Nybroplan to Djurgården, landing next to the Vasa Museum (55 kr, credit cards only, 1/hour, April-Sept daily roughly 9:00-18:00, tel. 08/731-0025, www.ressel.se). While buses and trams run between the same points more frequently, the ferry option gets you out onto the water and can be faster—and certainly more scenic—than overland connections. The hop-on, hop-off boat tour (see here) also connects many of these stops.
Stockholm is a good taxi town—provided you find a reputable cab that charges fair rates. Taxis are unregulated, so companies can charge whatever they like. Before hopping in a taxi, look carefully at the big yellow label in the back window, which lists various fares. On the left, you’ll see the per-kilometer fares for weekdays, evenings and weekends, and holidays. The largest number, on the right, shows their “highest comparison price” (högsta järnförpriset) for a 10-kilometer ride that lasts 15 minutes; this number should be between 290 and 390—if it’s higher, move on. (Legally, you’re not obligated to take the first cab in line—feel free to compare fares.) Most cabs charge a drop fee of about 45 kr. Taxis with inflated rates tend to congregate at touristy places like the Vasa Museum or in Gamla Stan. I’ve been ripped off enough by cabs here to know: Take only “Taxi Stockholm” cabs with the phone number (08/150-000) printed on the door. (Other companies that are reportedly honest include Taxi Kurir, tel. 08/300-000, and Taxi 020, tel. 08/850-400 or 020-20-20-20.) Your hotel, restaurant, or museum can call a cab, which will generally arrive within minutes (no extra charge—the meter starts when you hop in).
The sightseeing company Strömma has a lock on most city tours, whether by bus, by boat, or on foot. Their website (www.stromma.se) covers the entire program, much of which is listed next. For more information on their tours, call 08/1200-4000. Tours can be paid for in advance online, or simply as you board. The Stockholm Card provides discounts or even covers some of Strömma’s tours, including the Royal Canal or Historic Canal boat trip (free), their orientation bus tour (half-price), and their hop-on, hop-off bus tour (discounted).
Three hop-on, hop-off buses make a 1.5-hour circuit of the city, orienting riders with a recorded commentary and linking all the essential places from Skansen to City Hall; when cruises are in town, they also stop at both cruise ports (Stadsgården and Frihamnen). Open Top Tours’ green buses and City Sightseeing’s red buses both cooperate with Strömma (260 kr/24 hours, 350 kr/72 hours, ticket covers both buses; May-Sept 2/hour daily 10:00-16:00, fewer off-season, none mid-Jan-mid-Feb, www.stromma.se). Red Sightseeing offers a similar hop-on, hop-off itinerary for the same price (3/hour, www.redbuses.se). All bus companies offer free Wi-Fi.
Several different city bus tours leave from the Royal Opera House on Gustav Adolfs Torg. Strömma’s Stockholm Panorama tour provides a good overview—but, as it’s the same price as the 24-hour hop-on, hop-off ticket, I’d take this tour only if you want a quick and efficient loop with no unnecessary stops (260 kr, 4-6/day, fewer in Oct-May, 1.25 hours).
For a good floating look at Stockholm and a pleasant break, consider a sightseeing cruise. I enjoy these various boat tours at the end of the day, when the light is warm and the sights and museums are closed. The handiest are the Strömma/Stockholm Sightseeing boats, which leave from Strömkajen, in front of the Grand Hotel, and also stop at Nybroplan five minutes later. The Royal Canal Tour is short and informative (170 kr, 50 minutes, departs at :30 past each hour May-Aug 10:30-18:30, less frequent off-season, none Jan-March). The nearly two-hour Under the Bridges Tour goes through two locks and under 15 bridges (225 kr, departures on the hour May-mid-Sept). The Historic Canal Tour leaves from the Stadshusbron dock at City Hall (170 kr, 50 minutes, departs at :30 past each hour June-Aug). You’ll circle Kungsholmen island while learning about Stockholm’s history from the early Industrial Age to modern times.
Stockholm is a city surrounded by water, making this boat option enjoyable and practical. Strömma/Royal Sightseeing offers the same small loop, stopping at key spots such as Djurgården (Skansen and Vasa Museum), Gamla Stan (near Slussen and again near Royal Palace), the Viking Line dock next to the cruise terminal at Stadsgården, and Nybroplan. Use the boat strictly as transport from Point A to Point B, or make the whole one-hour, eight-stop loop and enjoy the recorded commentary (Strömma-160 kr/24 hours, Royal Sightseeing-120 kr/24 hours, 2-3/hour May-mid-Sept, pick up map for schedule and locations of boat stops, www.stromma.se or www.royalsightseeing.com).
Strömma offers a 1.25-hour Old Town walk (150 kr, 2/day July-Aug only, departs from obelisk next to Royal Palace on Gamla Stan).
Håkan Frändén is an excellent guide who brings Stockholm to life (mobile 070-531-3379, hakan.franden@hotmail.com). You can also hire a private guide through the Association of Qualified Tourist Guides of Stockholm (www.guidestockholm.com, info@guidestockholm.com). The standard rate is about 1,500 kr for up to three hours. Marita Bergman is a teacher and a licensed guide who enjoys showing visitors around during her school breaks (1,650 kr/half-day tour, mobile 073-511-9154, maritabergman@bredband.net).
To tour Stockholm on two wheels, you can either use one of the city bikes or rent your own.
Using City Bikes: Stockholm’s City Bikes program is a good option for seeing this bike-friendly town. While you’ll find similar bike-sharing programs all over Europe, Stockholm’s is the most usable and helpful for travelers. It’s easy, the bikes are great, and the city lends itself to joy-riding.
Purchase a 165-kr, three-day City Bike card at the TI, at the SL Center (Stockholm Transport) office at Sergels Torg, or at many hotels and hostels. The card allows you to grab a bike from one of the more than 90 City Bike racks around the city. You must return it within three hours (to any rack), but if you want to keep riding, just check out another bike. You can do this over and over for three days (available April-Oct only, www.citybikes.se).
The downside: Unless you have a lock, you can’t park your bike as you sightsee. You’ll need to return it to a station and get another when you’re ready to go—which sounds easy enough, but in practice many stations are full (without an empty port in which to leave a bike) or have no bikes available. To overcome this problem, download the fun, easy, and free app from the website, which can help you find the nearest racks and bikes.
Renting a Bike: You can also rent bikes (and boats) at Sjöcaféet, next to Djurgårdsbron bridge near the Vasa Museum. It’s ideally situated as a springboard for a pleasant bike ride around the park-like Djurgården island—use their free and excellent bike map/guide. For details, see here.
This section includes two different self-guided walks to introduce you to Stockholm, both old (Gamla Stan) and new (the modern city).
(See “Stockholm’s Gamla Stan Walk” map, here.)
Stockholm’s historic island core is charming, photogenic, and full of antiques shops, street lanterns, painted ceilings, and surprises. Until the 1600s, all of Stockholm fit in Gamla Stan. Stockholm traded with other northern ports such as Amsterdam, Lübeck, and Tallinn. German culture influenced art, building styles, and even the language, turning Old Norse into modern Swedish. With its narrow alleys and stairways, Gamla Stan mixes poorly with cars and modern economies. Today, it’s been given over to the Royal Palace and to the tourists, who throng Gamla Stan’s main drag, Västerlånggatan, seemingly unaware that most of Stockholm’s best attractions are elsewhere. While you could just happily wander, this quick walk gives meaning to Stockholm’s Old Town.
• Our walk begins along the harborfront. Start at the base of Slottsbacken (the Palace Hill esplanade) leading up to the...
Royal Palace: Along the water, check out the 
statue of King Gustav III gazing at the palace, which was built on the site of Stockholm’s first castle (described later, under “Sights in Stockholm”). Gustav turned Stockholm from a dowdy Scandinavian port into a sophisticated European capital, modeled on French culture. Gustav loved the arts, and he founded the Royal Dramatic Theater and the Royal Opera in Stockholm. Ironically, he was assassinated at a masquerade ball at the Royal Opera House in 1792, inspiring Verdi’s opera Un Ballo in Maschera.
Walk up the broad, cobbled boulevard to the crest of the hill. Stop, look back, and scan the harbor. The grand building across the water is the National Museum, which is often mistaken for the palace. Beyond that, in the distance, is the fine row of buildings on Strandvägen street. Until the 1850s, this area was home to peasant shacks, but as Stockholm entered its grand stage, it was cleaned up and replaced by fine apartments, including some of the city’s smartest addresses. The blocky gray TV tower—a major attraction back in the 1970s—stands tall in the distance. Turn to the palace facade on your left (finished in 1754, replacing one that burned in 1697). The niches are filled with Swedish bigwigs (literally) from the mid-18th century.
As you crest the hill, you’re facing the 
obelisk that honors Stockholm’s merchant class for its support in a 1788 war against Russia. In front of the obelisk are tour buses (their drivers worried about parking cops) and a sand pit used for boules. The royal family took a liking to the French game during a Mediterranean vacation, and it’s quite popular around town today. Behind the obelisk stands Storkyrkan, Stockholm’s cathedral (which we’ll visit later in this walk). From this angle you can see its Baroque facade, which was added to better match the newer palace. Opposite the palace (dark orange building on left) is the Finnish church (Finska Kyrkan), which originated as the royal tennis hall. When the Protestant Reformation hit in 1527, church services could at last be said in the peoples’ languages rather than Latin. Suddenly, each merchant community needed its own church. Finns worshipped here, the Germans built their own church (coming up on this walk), and the Swedes got the cathedral.
Stroll up the lane to the right of the Finnish church into the shady churchyard where you’ll find the fist-sized 
Iron Boy, the tiniest public statue (out of about 600 statues) in Stockholm. Swedish grannies knit caps for him in the winter. Local legend says the statue honors the orphans who had to transfer cargo from sea ships to lake ships before Stockholm’s locks were built. Some people rub his head for good luck (which the orphans didn’t have). Others, likely needy when it comes to this gift, rub his head for wisdom. The artist says it’s simply a self-portrait of himself as a child, sitting on his bed and gazing at the moon.
• Continue through the yard, turn left onto Trädgårdsgatan, then bear right with the lane until you pop out at...
Köpmangatan: Take a moment to explore this street from one end to the other. With its cobbles and traditional pastel facades, this is a quintessential Gamla Stan lane—and one of the oldest in town. The mellow yellow houses are predominantly from the 18th century; the red facades are mostly 17th century. Once merchants’ homes, today these are popular with antique dealers. Back when there was comfort living within a city’s walls, Gamla Stan streets like this were densely populated.
Head left, and you’ll emerge on Köpmantorget square, with the breathtaking 
statue of St. George slaying the dragon. About 10 steps to the right of that is a maiden (representing Stockholm), looking on with thanks and admiration. At the other (top) end of the lane is old Stockholm’s main square, our next stop.
Stortorget, Stockholm’s Oldest Square: Colorful old buildings topped with gables line this square, which was the heart of medieval Stockholm (pop. 6,000 in 1400). This was where the many tangled lanes intersected, becoming the natural center for shopping and the town well. Today Stortorget is home to lots of tourists—including a steady storm of cruise groups following the numbered Ping-Pong paddle of their guides on four-hour blitz tours of the city (300 ships call here between June and September each year). The square also hosts concerts, occasional demonstrators, and—in winter—Christmas shoppers at an outdoor market.
The grand building on the right is the Stock Exchange. It now houses the noble Nobel Museum (described later, under “Sights in Stockholm”). On the immediate left is the social-services agency Stockholms Stadsmission (offering the cheapest and best lunch around at the recommended Grillska Huset). If you peek into the adjacent bakery, you’ll get a fine look at the richly decorated ceilings characteristic of Gamla Stan in the 17th century—the exotic flowers and animals implied that the people who lived or worked here were worldly. You’ll also spy some tempting marzipan cakes (a local favorite) and kanelbullar (cinnamon buns). There’s a cheap sandwich counter in the back and lots of picnic benches in the square.
The town well is still a popular meeting point. This square long held the town’s pillory. Scan the fine old facades. The site of the Stockholm Bloodbath of 1520, this square has a notorious history. During a Danish power grab, many of Stockholm’s movers and shakers who had challenged Danish rule—Swedish aristocracy, leading merchants, and priests—were rounded up, brought here, and beheaded. Rivers of blood were said to have flowed through the streets. Legend holds that the 80 or so white stones in the fine red facade across the square symbolize the victims. (One victim’s son escaped, went into hiding, and resurfaced to lead a Swedish revolt against the Danish rulers. Three years later, the Swedes elected that rebel, Gustav Vasa, as their first king. He went on to usher in a great period in the country’s history—the Swedish Renaissance.)
• At the far end of the square (under the finest gables), turn right and follow Trångsund toward the cathedral.
Cathedral (Storkyrkan): Just before the church, you’ll see my personal phone booth (Rikstelefon) and the gate to the churchyard—guarded by statues of Caution and Hope. Enter the yellow-brick church—Stockholm’s oldest, from the 13th century (40 kr; daily 9:00-16:00, open later Mon-Fri in summer—until 17:00 or 18:00). Signs explain events (busy with tours and services in summer).
When buying your ticket, pick up the free, worthwhile English-language flier. Exploring the cathedral’s interior, you’ll find many styles, ranging from medieval to modern. The front of the nave is paved with centuries-old tombstones. At one time, more than a thousand people were buried under the church. The tombstone of the Swedish reformer Olaus Petri is appropriately simple and appropriately located—under the finely carved and gilded pulpit. A witness to the Stockholm Bloodbath, Petri was nearly executed himself. He went on to befriend Gustav Vasa and guide him in Lutheranizing Sweden (and turning this cathedral from Catholic to Protestant). The fine 17th-century altar is made of silver and ebony. Above it, the silver Christ stands like a conquering general evoking the 1650s, an era of Swedish military might.
Opposite the pulpit, find the bronze plaque in the pillar. It recalls the 1925 Swedish-led ecumenical meeting of all Christian leaders—except the pope—that encouraged the Church to speak out against the type of evil that resulted in World War I’s horrific death toll.
The royal boxes (carved wood, between the pulpit and the altar) date from 1684. In June of 2010, this church hosted a royal wedding (Crown Princess Victoria, heir to the throne, married Daniel Westling, her personal trainer). Imagine the pomp and circumstance as the nation’s attention was drawn to this spot.
The remarkably detailed statue to the left of the altar, Saint George and the Dragon (1489)—a copy of which you saw outside a few minutes ago—is carved of oak and elk horn. To some, this symbolizes the Swedes’ overcoming the evil Danes (commemorating a military victory in 1471). In a broader sense, it’s an inspiration to take up the struggle against even non-Danish evil. Regardless, it must be the gnarliest dragon’s head in all of Europe.
Return to the back of the church to find the exit. Before leaving, just to the left of the door, notice the painting that depicts Stockholm in the early 1500s, showing a walled city filling only today’s Gamla Stan. It’s a 1630 copy of the 1535 original. The church with its black spire dominated the town back then. The strange sun and sky predicted big changes in Sweden—and as a matter of fact, that’s what happened. Gustav Vasa brought on huge reforms in religion and beyond. (The doors just to the left and right of the painting lead to a free WC.)
Heading outside, you’ll emerge into the kid-friendly churchyard, which was once the cemetery.
• With your back to the church’s front door, turn right and continue down Trångsund. At the next corner, turn left and go downhill on Storkyrkobrinken and take the first left on...
Prästgatan: Enjoy a quiet wander down this peaceful 15th-century “Priests’ Lane.” Västerlånggatan, the touristy drag, parallels this lane one block over. (While we’ll skip it now, you can walk back up it from the end point of this walk.) As you stroll Prästgatan, look for bits of its past: hoists poking out horizontally from gables (merchants used these to lift goods into their attics), tie bolts (iron bars necessary to bind the timber beams of tall buildings together), small coal or wood hatches (for fuel delivery back in the good old days), and flaming gold phoenixes under red-crown medallions (telling firefighters which houses paid insurance and could be saved in case of fire—for example, #46). Like other Scandinavian cities, Stockholm was plagued by fire until it was finally decreed that only stone, stucco, and brick construction (like you see here) would be allowed in the town center.
After a few blocks (at Kåkbrinken), a cannon barrel on the corner (look down) guards a Viking-age 
rune stone. In case you can’t read the old Nordic script, it says: “Torsten and Frogun erected this stone in memory of their son.”
• Continue one block farther down Prästgatan to Tyska Brinken and turn left. You will see the powerful brick steeple of the German Church.
German Church (Tyska Kyrkan): The church’s carillon has played four times a day since 1666. Think of the days when German merchants worked here. Today, Germans come to Sweden not to run the economy, but to enjoy its pristine nature (which is progressively harder to find in their own crowded homeland). Sweden formally became a Lutheran country even before the northern part of Germany—making this the very first German Lutheran church (free, Mon-Sat 11:00-15:00, Sun 12:30-17:00).
• Wander through the churchyard (past a cute church café) and out the back. Exit right onto Svartmangatan and follow it to the right, ending at an iron railing overlooking Österlånggatan.
Viewpoint: From this perch, survey the street below to the left and right. Notice how it curves. This marks the old shoreline. In medieval times, piers stretched out like fingers into the harbor. Gradually, as land was reclaimed and developed, these piers were extended, becoming lanes leading to piers farther away. Behind you is a cute shop where elves can actually be seen making elves.
• Walk right along Österlånggatan to...
Järntorget: A customs square in medieval times, this was the home of Sweden’s first bank back in 1680 (the yellow building with the bars on the windows). The Co-op Nära supermarket on this square offers picnic fixings. From here, Västerlånggatan—the eating, shopping, and commercial pedestrian mall of Gamla Stan—leads back across the island. You’ll be there in a minute, but first finish this walk.
• Continue out of the square (opposite where you entered) down Järntorgsgatan, walk (carefully) out into the traffic hell, passing an equestrian statue of Jean-Baptiste Bernadotte—the French son of a lawyer invited to establish the current Swedish royal dynasty in the early 1800s. Continue ahead 50 yards until you reach a viewpoint overlooking a lock.
Bridge Overlooking Slussen: This area is called Slussen, named for the locks between the salt water of the Baltic Sea (to your left) and the fresh water of the huge Lake Mälaren (to your right). In fact, Stockholm exists because this is where Lake Mälaren meets the sea. Traders would sail their goods from far inland to this point, where they’d meet merchants who would ship the goods south to Europe. In the 13th century, the new Kingdom of Sweden needed revenue, and began levying duty taxes on all the iron, copper, and furs shipped through here. From the bridge, you may notice a current in the water, indicating that the weir has been lowered and water is spilling from Lake Mälaren (about two feet above sea level) into the sea. Today, the locks are nicknamed “the divorce lock” because this is where captains and first mates learn to communicate under pressure and in the public eye.
Survey the view. Opposite Gamla Stan is the island of Södermalm—bohemian, youthful, artsy, and casual—with its popular Katarina viewing platform (see sidebar on here). Moored on the saltwater side are the cruise ships, which bring thousands of visitors into town each day during the season. Many of these boats are bound for Finland. The towering white syringe is the Gröna Lund amusement park’s free-fall ride. The revolving Djurgården Färjan sign, along the embankment to your left, marks the ferry that zips from here directly to Gröna Lund and Djurgården.
You could catch bus #2, which heads back downtown (the stop is just beyond Bernadotte, next to the waterfront). But better yet, linger longer in Gamla Stan—day or night, it’s a lively place to enjoy. Västerlånggatan, Gamla Stan’s main commercial drag, is a touristy festival of distractions that keeps most visitors from seeing the historic charms of the Old Town—which you just did. Now you’re free to window-shop and eat (see here). Or, if it’s late, find some live music (see here).
• For more sightseeing, consider the other sights in Gamla Stan or at the Royal Palace (all described later, under “Sights in Stockholm”). If you continue back up Västerlånggatan (always going straight), you’ll reach the Parliament building and cross the water back over onto Norrmalm (where the street becomes Drottninggatan). This pedestrian street leads back into Stockholm’s modern, vibrant new town.
Swedes drink more coffee per capita than just about any other country in the world. The Swedish coffee break—or fika—is a ritual. Fika is to Sweden what teatime is to Britain. The typical fika is a morning or afternoon break in the workday, but can happen any time, any day. It’s the perfect opportunity (and excuse) for tourists to take a break as well.
Fika fare is coffee with a snack—something sweet or savory. Your best bet is a kanelbulle, a Swedish cinnamon bun, although some prefer pariserbulle, a bun filled with vanilla cream. These can be found nearly everywhere coffee is sold, including just about any café or konditori (bakery) in Stockholm. A coffee and a cinnamon bun in a café will cost you about 40 kr. (Most cafés will give you a coffee refill for free.) But at Pressbyrån, the Swedish convenience stores found all over town, you can satisfy your fika fix for 25 kr by getting a coffee and bun to go. Grab a park bench or waterside perch, relax, and enjoy.
From here it’s also a 10-minute walk to Kungsträdgården, the starting point of my Modern City self-guided walk (described next). You can either walk along the embankment and take the diagonal bridge directly across to the square, or you can walk back through the middle of Gamla Stan, taking the stately walkway past the Parliament, then turning right when you cross the bridge. On the way there, you’ll pass the Royal Opera House and (tucked behind it) Gustav Adolfs Torg, with its imposing statue of Gustavus Adolphus. He was the king who established the Swedish empire. Considered by many to be the father of modern warfare for his innovative tactics, he was a Protestant hero of the Thirty Years’ War.
On this walk, we’ll use the park called Kungsträdgården as a springboard to explore the modern center of Stockholm—a commercial zone designed to put the focus not on old kings and mementos of superpower days, but on shopping. For the route, see the map on here.
• Find the statue of King Karl XII, facing the waterfront at the harbor end of the park.
Kungsträdgården: Centuries ago, this “King’s Garden” was the private kitchen garden of the king, where he grew his cabbage salad. Today, this downtown people-watching center, worth ▲, is considered Stockholm’s living room, symbolizing the Swedes’ freedom-loving spirit. While the name implies that the garden is a private royal domain, the giant clump of elm trees just behind the statue reminds locals that it’s the people who rule now. In the 1970s, demonstrators chained themselves to these trees to stop the building of an underground train station here. They prevailed, and today, locals enjoy the peaceful, breezy ambience of a teahouse instead. Watch the AstroTurf zone with “latte dads” and their kids, and enjoy a summer concert at the bandstand. There’s always something going on. High above is a handy reference point—the revolving NK clock.
Kungsträdgården—surrounded by the harborfront and tour boats, the Royal Opera House, and shopping opportunities (including a welcoming Volvo showroom near the top-left side of the square, showing off the latest in Swedish car design)—is the place to feel Stockholm’s pulse (but always ask first: “Kan jag kanna på din puls?”).
Kungsträdgården also throws huge parties. The Taste of Stockholm festival runs for a week in early June, when restaurateurs show off and bands entertain all day. Beer flows liberally—a rare public spectacle in Sweden.
• Stroll through Kungsträdgården, past the fountain and the Volvo store, and up to Hamngatan street. From here, we’ll turn left and walk the length of the NK department store (across the street) as we wade through...
Stockholm’s Urban Shopping Zone (Hamngatan): In just a couple of blocks, we’ll pass some major landmarks of Swedish consumerism. First, at the top of Kungsträdgården on the left, look for the gigantic Illums Bolighus design shop. (You can enter from the square and stroll all the way through it, popping out at Hamngatan on the far end.) This is a Danish institution, making its play for Swedish customers with this prime location. Across the street (on your right as you walk down Hamngatan), notice the giant gold NK marking the Nordiska Kompaniet department store (locals joke that the NK stands for “no kronor left”). It’s located in an elegant early 20th-century building that dominates the top end of Kungsträdgården. If it feels like an old-time American department store, that’s because its architect was inspired by grand stores he’d seen in the US (circa 1910).
Another block down, on the left, is the sleeker, more modern Gallerian mall. Among this two-story world of shops, upstairs you’ll find a Clas Ohlson hardware and electronics shop (a men’s favorite, as most Stockholmers have a cabin that’s always in need of a little DIY repair). And there are plenty of affordable little lunch bars and classy cafés for your fika (Swedish coffee-and-bun break). You may notice that American influence (frozen yogurt and other trendy food chains) is challenging the entire notion of the traditional fika.
• High-end shoppers should consider heading into the streets behind NK, with exclusive designer boutiques and the chichi Mood Stockholm mall (see here). Otherwise, just beyond the huge Gallerian mall, you’ll emerge into Sergels Torg. (Note that the handy tram #7 goes from here directly to Skansen and the other important sights on Djurgården; departures every few minutes, tickets sold on board.)
Sergels Torg and Kulturhuset: Sergels Torg square, worth ▲, dominates the heart of modern Stockholm with its stark 1960s-era functionalist architecture. The glassy tower in the middle of the fountain plaza is ugly in daylight but glows at night, symbolic of Sweden’s haunting northern lights.
Kulturhuset, the hulking, low-slung, glassy building overlooking the square (on your left) is Stockholm’s “culture center.” Inside, just past the welcoming info desk, you’ll find a big model of the city that locals use to check in on large infrastructure projects. Push a few buttons and see what’s happening. In this lively cultural zone, there’s a space for kids, a library (with magazines and computer terminals), chessboards, fun shops, fine art cinema, art exhibits, and a venue for new bands (tel. 08/5083-1508, www.kulturhuset.stockholm.se).
I like to take the elevator to the top and explore each level by riding the escalator back down to the ground floor. On the rooftop, choose from one of two recommended eateries with terrific city views: Cafeteria Panorama has cheap meals and a salad bar while the Mat and Bar café is trendier and pricier (see here).
Back outside, stand in front of the Kulturhuset (across from the fountain) and survey the expansive square nicknamed “Plattan” (the platter). Everything around you dates from the 1960s and 1970s, when this formerly run-down area was reinvented as an urban “space of the future.” In the 1970s, with no nearby residences, the desolate Plattan became the domain of junkies. Now the city is actively revitalizing it, and the Plattan is becoming a people-friendly heart of the commercial town.
DesignTorget (enter from the lower level of Kulturhuset) is a place for independent Swedish designers to showcase and sell their clever products. (Local designers submit their creations, and the DesignTorget staff votes on and carries their favorites—perhaps you need a banana case?) Nearby are the major boutiques and department stores, including, across the way, H&M and Åhléns.
Sergelgatan, a thriving pedestrian and commercial street, leads past the five uniform white towers you see beyond the fountain. These office towers, so modern in the 1960s, have gone from seeming hopelessly out-of-date to being considered “retro,” and are now quite popular with young professionals.
• Walk up Sergelgatan past the towers, enjoying the public art and people-watching, to the market at Hötorget.
Hötorget: “Hötorget” means “Hay Market,” but today its stalls feed people rather than horses. The adjacent indoor market, Hötorgshallen, is fun and fragrant. It dates from 1914 when, for hygienic reasons, the city forbade selling fish and meat outdoors. Carl Milles’ statue of Orpheus Emerging from the Underworld (with seven sad Muses) stands in front of the city concert hall (which hosts the annual Nobel Prize award ceremony). The concert house, from 1926, is Swedish Art Deco (a.k.a. “Swedish Grace”). The lobby (open through much of the summer, 70-kr tours) still evokes Stockholm’s Roaring Twenties. If the door’s open, you’re welcome to look in for free.
Popping into the Hötorget T-bana station provides a fun glimpse at local urban design. Stockholm’s subway system was inaugurated in the 1950s, and many stations are modern art installations in themselves.
• Our walk ends here. For more shopping and an enjoyable pedestrian boulevard leading back into the Old Town, cut down a block to Drottninggatan and turn left. This busy drag leads straight out of the commercial district, passes the Parliament, then becomes the main street of Gamla Stan.
Royal Palace Complex (Kungliga Slottet)
▲▲Military Parade and Changing of the Guard
▲▲Royal Armory (Livrustkammaren)
▲Royal Coin Cabinet (Kungliga Myntkabinettet)
Museum of Medieval Stockholm (Medeltidsmuseet)
On Kungsholmen, West of Norrmalm
On Blasieholmen and Skeppsholmen
▲National Museum of Fine Arts (Nationalmuseum)
Museum of Modern Art (Moderna Museet)
▲▲Nordic Museum (Nordiska Museet)
The best of Gamla Stan is covered in my self-guided “Old Town Walk,” earlier. But here are a few ways to extend your time in the Old Town.
Opened in 2001 for the 100-year anniversary of the Nobel Prize, this wonderful little museum tells the story of the world’s most prestigious prize. Pricey but high-tech and eloquent, it fills the grand old stock exchange building that dominates Gamla Stan’s main square, Stortorget.
Cost and Hours: 100 kr, free Tue after 17:00; open June-Aug daily 10:00-20:00; Sept-May Tue 11:00-20:00, Wed-Sun 11:00-17:00, closed Mon; audioguide-20 kr, free 30-minute orientation tours in English: 6/day in summer, fewer off-season; on Stortorget in the center of Gamla Stan a block from the Royal Palace, tel. 08/5348-1800, www.nobelmuseum.se.
Background: Stockholm-born Alfred Nobel was a great inventor, with more than 300 patents. His most famous invention: dynamite. Living in the late 1800s, Nobel was a man of his age. It was a time of great optimism, wild ideas, and grand projects. His dynamite enabled entire nations to blast their way into the modern age with canals, railroads, and tunnels. It made warfare much more destructive. And it also made Alfred Nobel a very wealthy man. Wanting to leave a legacy that celebrated and supported people with great ideas, Alfred used his fortune to fund the Nobel Prize. Every year since 1901, laureates have been honored in the fields of physics, chemistry, medicine, literature, and peacemaking.
Visiting the Museum: Inside, portraits of all 700-plus prizewinners hang from the ceiling—shuffling around the room like shirts at the dry cleaner’s (miss your favorite, and he or she will come around again in six hours). Behind the ticket desk are video screens honoring the six Nobel Prize categories, each running a clip about the most recent laureate in that category.
Flanking the main hall beyond that—where touchscreens organized by decade invite you to learn more about the laureates of your choice—two video rooms run a continuous montage of quick programs (three-minute bios of various winners in one program, five-minute films celebrating various intellectual environments—from Cambridge to Parisian cafés—in the other).
To the right of the ticket desk, find “The Gallery,” with an endearingly eccentric collection of items that various laureates have cited as important to their creative process, from scientific equipment to inspirational knickknacks. The randomness of the items offers a fascinating and humanizing insight into the great minds of our time. Beyond that are a room dedicated to Alfred Nobel and a small children’s area.
The Viennese-style Bistro Nobel is the place to get creative with your coffee...and sample the famous Nobel ice cream. All Nobel laureates who visit the museum are asked to sign the bottom of a chair in the café. Turn yours over and see who warmed your chair. And don’t miss the lockable hangers, to protect your fancy, furry winter coat. The Swedish Academy, which awards the Nobel Prize for literature each year, is upstairs.
Although the royal family beds down at Drottningholm (see next chapter), this complex in Gamla Stan is still the official royal residence. The palace, designed in Italian Baroque style, was completed in 1754 after a fire wiped out the previous palace—a much more characteristic medieval/Renaissance complex. This blocky Baroque replacement, which houses various museums, is big and (frankly) pretty dull. Note two of the sights—the Royal Armory and the Royal Coin Cabinet—are operated by different organizations, so they have separate entrances and tickets.
Planning Your Time: Visiting the several sights in and near the palace could fill a day, but Stockholm has far better attractions elsewhere. Prioritize. The Changing of the Guard and the awesome Royal Armory are the highlights.
The Royal Palace ticket includes four museums. Of these, the Royal Treasury is worth a look; the Royal Apartments are not much as far as palace rooms go; the Museum of Three Crowns gets you down into the medieval cellars to learn about the more interesting earlier castle; and Gustav III’s Museum of Antiquities is skippable. The chapel is nice enough (and the only interior that’s free to enter). The Royal Coin Cabinet—which requires a separate ticket—fascinates coin collectors.
Visitors in a rush should see the Changing of the Guard, pay to enter the Royal Armory, and skip the rest. The information booth in the semicircular courtyard (at the top, where the guard changes) gives out a list of the day’s guided tours and an explanatory brochure/map that marks the entrances to the different sights. The main entrance to the Royal Palace (including the apartments, chapel, and treasury) faces the long, angled square and obelisk.
Tours: In peak season, the main Royal Palace offers a full slate of English tours covering the different sights (included in the admission)—allowing you to systematically cover nearly the entire complex. If you’re paying the hefty price for a ticket, you might as well try to join at least one of the tours—otherwise, you’ll struggle to appreciate the place. Some tours are infrequent, so be sure to confirm times when you purchase your admission (for more on tours, see the individual listings below).
Expect Changes: Since the palace is used for state functions, it is sometimes closed to tourists. And, as the exterior is undergoing a 20-year renovation, don’t be surprised if parts are covered in scaffolding.
Starting two blocks from Nybroplan (in front of the Army Museum at Riddargatan 13), Stockholm’s daily military parade marches over Norrbro bridge, in front of the Parliament building, and up to the Royal Palace’s outer courtyard, where the band plays and the guard changes. Smaller contingents of guards spiral in from other parts of the palace complex, eventually convening in the same place.
The performance is fresh and spirited, because the soldiers are visiting Stockholm just like you—and it’s a chance for young soldiers from all over Sweden in every branch of the service to show their stuff in the big city. Pick your place at the palace courtyard, where the band arrives at about 12:15 (13:15 on Sun). The best spot to stand is along the wall in the inner courtyard, near the palace information and ticket office. There are columns with wide pedestals for easy perching, as well as benches that people stand on to view the ceremony (arrive early). Generally, after the barking and goose-stepping formalities, the band shows off for an impressive 30-minute marching concert. Though the royal family now lives out of town at Drottningholm, the palace guards are for real. If the guard by the cannon in the semicircular courtyard looks a little lax, try wandering discreetly behind him.
Cost and Hours: Free; mid-May-mid-Sept Mon-Sat parade begins at 11:45 (reaches palace at 12:15), Sun at 12:45 (palace at 13:15); April-mid-May and mid-Sept-Oct Wed and Sat at 11:45 (palace at 12:15), Sun at 12:45 (palace at 13:15); Nov-March starts at palace Wed and Sat at 12:15, Sun at 13:15. Royal appointments can disrupt the schedule; confirm times at TI. In summer, you might also catch the mounted guards (but they do not appear on a regular schedule).
The oldest museum in Sweden is both more and less than an armory. Rather than dusty piles of swords and muskets, it focuses on royal clothing: impressive ceremonial armor (never used in battle) and other fashion through the ages (including a room of kidswear), plus a fine collection of coaches. It’s an engaging slice of royal life. Everything is displayed under sturdy brick vaults, beautifully lit, and well-described in English and by the museum’s evocative audioguide.
Cost and Hours: 90 kr, half-price if you’ve already bought your Royal Palace ticket—so if you’re touring both sights, buy your palace ticket before you come here; May-June daily 11:00-17:00; July-Aug daily 10:00-18:00; Sept-April Tue-Sun 11:00-17:00, Thu until 20:00, closed Mon; 20-kr audioguide is excellent—romantic couples can share it if they crank up the volume, information sheets in English available in most rooms; entrance at bottom of Slottsbacken at base of palace, tel. 08/402-3010, www.livrustkammaren.se.
Visiting the Museum: Buy your ticket and begin with the ground-floor collection. The first room (A) is almost a shrine for Swedish visitors. It contains the clothes Gustavus Adolphus wore—and even the horse he was riding, when he was killed in the Thirty Years’ War. Continue through Room B into Rooms C and D, where the exquisite workmanship on the ceremonial armor is a fine example of weaponry as an art form. Also in Room D are royal suits and gowns through the ages. The 1766 wedding dress of Queen Sofia is designed to cleverly show off its fabulously rich fabric (the dress seems even wider when compared to her 20-inch corseted waist). There are some modern dresses here as well. The royal children get a section for themselves (Room E), featuring a cradle that has rocked heirs to the throne since the 1650s; eventually it will leave the armory to rock the next royal offspring as well. It’s fun to imagine little princes romping around their 600-room home with these toys. A century ago, one prince treasured his boxcar and loved playing cowboys and Indians. At the end of the main hall is a children’s area.
The easy-to-miss mezzanine level (overlooking these main rooms) is typically filled with good temporary exhibits.
Backtrack to the entrance and find the stairs down to the basement, filled with lavish royal coaches. The highlight (last coach on the right, with purple and blue accents) is a plush coronation coach made in France in about 1700 and shipped to Stockholm, ready to be assembled Ikea-style. It last rolled a king to his big day—with its eight fine horses and what was then the latest in suspension gear—in 1869. At the end of the hall, the display of luggage over the centuries makes it obvious that Swedish royalty didn’t know how to pack light.
The Royal Palace consists of a chapel and four museums. Compared to many grand European palaces, it’s underwhelming and flooded with cruise-excursion groups who don’t realize that Stockholm’s best sightseeing is elsewhere. It’s worth a quick walk-through if you have a Stockholm Card (and, as a bonus, cardholders can go straight into each museum, bypassing the ticket office).
Cost and Hours: 150-kr combo-ticket covers all four museums and the chapel, includes guided tour; mid-May-mid-Sept daily 10:00-17:00; mid-Sept-mid-May Tue-Sun 12:00-16:00, closed Mon; tel. 08/402-6130, www.royalcourt.se.
Orientation: I’ve listed the museums in order of sightseeing worthiness. But if you want to see them all with minimal backtracking, follow this plan: Begin at the main entrance. Head up to the chapel for a peek, then descend to the treasury. Tour the Royal Apartments, exiting at the far side of the building—where you can head straight into the Museum of Three Crowns. Exiting there, you’ll find the final sight (Museum of Antiquities) to your right.
Royal Apartments: The stately palace exterior encloses 608 rooms (one more than Britain’s Buckingham Palace) of glittering 18th-century Baroque and Rococo decor. Clearly the palace of Scandinavia’s superpower, it’s steeped in royal history. You’ll enter into the grand main hall (cheapskates can get a free look at this first room before reaching the ticket checkpoint), then walk the long halls through four sections. On the main level are the Hall of State (with an exhibit of fancy state awards) and the lavish Bernadotte Apartments (some fine Rococo interiors and portraits of the Bernadotte dynasty); upstairs you’ll find the State Apartments (with rooms dating to the 1690s—darker halls, faded tapestries, and a wannabe hall of mirrors) and the Guest Apartments (with less lavish quarters, where visiting heads of state still crash). Guided 45-minute tours in English run twice daily.
Royal Treasury (Skattkammaren): Refreshingly compact compared to the sprawling apartments, the treasury gives you a good, up-close look at Sweden’s crown jewels. Climbing down into the super-secure vault, you’ll see 12 cases filled with fancy crowns, scepters, jeweled robes, the silver baptismal font of Karl XI, and plenty of glittering gold. It’s particularly worthwhile with an English guided tour (daily at 13:00) or the included audioguide (which covers basically the same information). The first room holds the crowns of princes and princesses, while the second shows off the more serious regalia of kings and queens. For more than a century, these crowns have gone unworn: The last Swedish coronation was Oskar II’s in 1873; in 1907 his son and successor—out of deference for the constitution (and living in a Europe that was deep in the throes of modernism)—declined to wear the crown, so he was “enthroned” rather than “coronated.” The crowns still belong to the monarchs and are present in the room on special occasions—but they are symbols rather than accessories.
Museum of Three Crowns (Museum Tre Kronor): This museum shows off bits of the palace from before a devastating 1697 fire. The models, illustrations, and artifacts are displayed in vaulted medieval cellars that are far more evocative than the run-of-the-mill interior of today’s palace. But while the stroll through the cellars is atmospheric, it’s basically just more old stuff, interesting only to real history buffs (guided tours in English offered on summer afternoons).
Chapel: If you don’t want to spring for a ticket, but would like a little taste of palace opulence, climb the stairs inside the main entrance for a peek into the chapel—the only free sight at the palace. It’s standard-issue royal Baroque: colorful ceiling painting, bubbly altars, and a giant organ.
Gustav III’s Museum of Antiquities (Gustav III’s Antikmuseum): In the 1700s, Gustav III traveled through Italy and brought home an impressive gallery of classical Roman statues. These are displayed exactly as they were in the 1790s. This was a huge deal for those who had never been out of Sweden (English tour at 16:00).
More than your typical royal coin collection, this is the best money museum I’ve seen in Europe. A fine exhibit tells the story of money from crude wampum to credit cards, and traces the development of the modern Swedish economy. The mellow but informative included audioguide helps make sense of the collection (which has only some English descriptions).
Cost and Hours: 70 kr, free on Mon, open daily June-Aug 11:00-17:00, Sept-May 10:00-16:00, Slottsbacken 6, tel. 08/5195-5304, www.myntkabinettet.se.
Visiting the Museum: You’ll begin on the ground floor, with a chronological sweep through the history of money, starting with the first-ever coin (look for the tiny, easy-to-miss golden pellet labeled det första myntet, dating from 625 B.C.). The gang’s all here: the ancient Greek drachma, the Roman dinarius, Charlemagne’s denier, Florence’s florin, ducats, pesos...and the German taler, where our dollar got its name. Banknotes finally arrived on the scene in 1661.
The upper floors are less engaging: The first floor up is heavy on Swedish economic history, including an interesting exhibit on “plate money”—from a time when, rather than bags of small coins, merchants carried around 40-pound slabs of copper (try to lift one). The second floor has the small royal coin collection and a large exhibit on ceremonial medals—including an actual Nobel Prize. The “Tally Up!” exhibit examines the role of money in our contemporary world, where the gulf between rich and poor seems greater than ever.
These first two sights sit on the Gamla Stan islet of Helgeandsholmen (just north of the Royal Palace), which is dominated by the Swedish Parliament. Also at the edge of Gamla Stan is the stately island of Riddarholmen.
For a firsthand look at Sweden’s government, tour the Parliament buildings. Guides enjoy a chance to teach a little Swedish poli-sci along the standard tour of the building and its art. It’s also possible to watch the Parliament in session.
Cost and Hours: Free one-hour tours go in English late June-late Aug, usually 4/day Mon-Fri (when Parliament is not in session). The rest of the year tours run 1/day Sat-Sun only; you’re also welcome to join Swedish citizens in the viewing gallery (free); enter at Riksgatan 3a, call 08/786-4862 between 9:00 and 11:00 to confirm tour times, www.riksdagen.se.
This modern, well-presented museum offers a look at medieval Stockholm. When the government was digging a parking garage near the Parliament building in the 1970s, workers uncovered a major archaeological find: parts of the town wall that King Gustav Vasa built in the 1530s, as well as a churchyard. This underground museum preserves these discoveries and explains how Stockholm grew from a medieval village to a major city, with a focus on its interactions with fellow Hanseatic League trading cities. Lots of artifacts, models, life-size dioramas, and sound and lighting effects—all displayed in a vast subterranean space—help bring the story to life.
The museum does a particularly good job of profiling individuals who lived in medieval Stockholm; their personal stories vividly set the context of the history. You’ll also see the preserved remains of a small cannon-ship from the 1520s and a reconstructed main market square from 13th-century Stockholm.
Cost and Hours: 100 kr ticket normally includes Stockholm City Museum in Södermalm, but that’s closed for restoration through 2017, so ticket price may change; Tue-Sun 12:00-17:00, Wed until 19:00, closed Mon; English audioguide-20 kr, enter museum from park in front of Parliament—down below as you cross the bridge, tel. 08/5083-1790, www.medeltidsmuseet.stockholm.se.
Nearby: The museum sits in Strömparterren park. With its café and Carl Milles statue of the Sun Singer greeting the day, it’s a pleasant place for a sightseeing break (pay WC in park, free WC in museum).
Literally the “Knights Isle,” Riddarholmen is the quiet and stately far side of Gamla Stan, with a historic church, private palaces, and a famous view. The knights referred to in its name were the nobles who built their palaces on this little island to be near the Royal Palace, just across the way. The island, cut off from the rest of Gamla Stan by a noisy highway, is pretty lifeless, with impersonal government agencies filling its old mansions. Still, a visit is worthwhile for a peek at its church and to enjoy the famous view of City Hall and Lake Mälaren from its far end.
A statue of Birger Jarl (considered the man who founded Stockholm in 1252) marks the main square. Surrounding it are 17th-century private palaces of old noble families (now government buildings). And towering high above is the spire of the Riddarholmen Church. Established in the 13th century as a Franciscan church, this has been the burial place of nearly every Swedish royal since the early 1600s. If you’re looking for a Swedish Westminster Abbey, this is it (50 kr, daily 10:00-17:00, shorter hours off-season). An inviting, shady café at the far end of the island is where people (and TV news crews) gather for Riddarholmen’s iconic Stockholm view.
I’ve organized these sights and activities in the urban core of Stockholm by island and/or neighborhood.
The Stadshuset is an impressive mix of eight million red bricks, 19 million chips of gilt mosaic, and lots of Stockholm pride. While churches dominate cities in southern Europe, in Scandinavian capitals, city halls seem to be the most impressive buildings, celebrating humanism and the ideal of people working together in community. Built in 1923, this is still a functioning city hall. The members of the city council—101 people (mostly women) representing the 850,000 people of Stockholm—are hobby legislators with regular day jobs. That’s why they meet in the evening. One of Europe’s finest public buildings, the site of the annual Nobel Prize banquet, and a favorite spot for weddings (they do two per hour on Saturday afternoons, when some parts of the complex may be closed), City Hall is particularly enjoyable and worthwhile for its entertaining and required 50-minute tour.
Cost and Hours: 100 kr; English-only tours offered daily, generally June-Aug every 30 minutes 9:30-16:00, off-season hourly 10:00-15:00; schedule can change due to special events—call to confirm; 300 yards behind the central train station—about a 15-minute walk from either the station or Gamla Stan, bus #3 or #62, tel. 08/5082-9059, www.stockholm.se/cityhall. City Hall’s cafeteria, which you enter from the courtyard, serves complete lunches for 95 kr (Mon-Fri 11:00-14:00, closed Sat-Sun).
Visiting City Hall: On the tour, you’ll see the building’s sumptuous National Romantic style interior (similar to Britain’s Arts and Crafts style), celebrating Swedish architecture and craftwork, and created almost entirely with Swedish materials. Highlights include the so-called Blue Hall (the Italian piazza-inspired, loggia-lined courtyard that was originally intended to be open air—hence the name—where the 1,300-plate Nobel banquet takes place); the City Council Chamber (with a gorgeously painted wood-beamed ceiling that resembles a Viking longhouse—or maybe an overturned Viking boat); the Gallery of the Prince (lined with frescoes executed by Prince Eugene of Sweden); and the glittering, gilded, Neo-Byzantine-style, and aptly named Golden Hall, where the Nobel recipients cut a rug after the banquet.
In this over-the-top space, a glimmering mosaic Queen of Lake Mälaren oversees the proceedings with a welcoming but watchful eye, as East (see Istanbul’s Hagia Sophia and the elephant, on the right) and West (notice the skyscrapers with the American flag, on the left) meet here in Stockholm. Above the door across the hall is Sweden’s patron saint, Erik, who seems to have lost his head (due to some sloppy mosaic planning). On the tour, you’ll find out exactly how many centimeters each Nobel banquet attendee gets at the table, why the building’s plans were altered at the last minute to make the tower exactly one meter taller, where the prince got the inspiration for his scenic frescoes, and how the Swedes reacted when they first saw that Golden Hall (hint: they weren’t pleased).
This 348-foot-tall tower rewards those who make the climb with the classic Stockholm view: The old church spires on the atmospheric islands of Gamla Stan pose together, with the rest of the green and watery city spread-eagle around them.
Cost and Hours: 40 kr, daily June-Aug 9:15-17:15, May and Sept 9:15-15:55, closed Oct-April.
Crowd-Beating Tips: Only 30 people at a time are allowed up into the tower, every 40 minutes throughout the day. To ascend, you’ll need a timed-entry ticket, which you can only get in person at the tower ticket office on the same day (no phone or Internet orders). It can be a long wait for the next available time, and tickets can sell out by mid-afternoon. If you’re touring City Hall, come to the tower ticket window first to see when space is available. Ideally an appointment will coincide with the end of your tour.
Visiting the Tower: A total of 365 steps lead to the top of the tower, but you can ride an elevator partway up—leaving you only 159 easy steps to the top.
First you’ll climb up through the brick structure, emerging at an atmospheric hall filled with models of busts and statues that adorn City Hall and a huge, 25-foot-tall statue of St. Erik. The patron saint of Stockholm, Erik was supposed to be hoisted by cranes up through the middle of the tower to stand at its top. But plans changed, big Erik is forever parked halfway up the structure, and the tower’s top is open for visitors to gather and enjoy the view.
From Erik, you’ll twist gradually up ramps and a few steps at a time through the narrow, labyrinthine brick halls with peek-a-boo views of the city. Finally you’ll emerge into the wooden section of the tower, where a spiral staircase brings you up to the roof terrace. Enjoy the view from there, but also take some time to look around at the building’s features. Smaller statues of Erik, Klara, Maria Magdalena, and Nikolaus, all patron saints, face their respective parishes. Look up: You’re in the company of the tower’s nine bells.
The peninsula of Blasieholmen pokes out from downtown Stockholm, and is tethered to the island of Skeppsholmen by a narrow bridge (with great views and adorned with glittering golden crowns). While not connected to the city by T-bana or tram, you can reach this area by bus #65 or the harbor shuttle ferry. Although Skeppsholmen is basically a “dead end” from a transportation perspective, it offers a peaceful break from the bustling city, with glorious views of Gamla Stan on one side and Djurgården on the other.
Stockholm’s 200-year-old art museum, though mediocre by European standards, owns a few good pieces. Highlights include several canvases by Rembrandt and Rubens, a fine group of Impressionist works, and a sizeable collection of Russian icons. Seek out the exquisite paintings by the Swedish artists Anders Zorn and Carl Larsson.
Cost and Hours: The museum is closed for an extensive renovation (reopening in 2017); for the latest, see www.nationalmuseum.se.
For a bird’s-eye perspective on this wonderful urban mix of water, parks, concrete, and people, consider these viewpoints.
City Hall Tower: The top of the tower comes with the classic city view (see listing on here).
Katarina: This viewing platform—offering fine views over the steeples of Gamla Stan—rises up from Slussen (the busy transit zone between Gamla Stan and Södermalm). You can get to the platform via a pedestrian bridge from Mosebacke Torg, up above in Södermalm. In good summer weather, you’ll have to wade through the swanky tables of Eriks restaurant to reach the (free and public) viewpoint.
Himlen: Rising above Södermalm’s main drag, the Skrapan skyscraper has a free elevator to the 25th-floor restaurant, called Himlen. While they’re hoping you’ll buy a meal (200-kr starters, 350-kr main courses) or nurse a 150-kr cocktail in the lounge, it’s generally fine to take a discreet peek at the 360-degree views—just march in the door at #78 and ride the elevator up to 25 (daily 14:00-late, Götgatan 78, tel. 08/660-6068, www.restauranghimlen.se).
Kaknäs Tower: This bold, concrete, 500-foot-tall TV tower—looming above the eastern part of the city, and visible from just about everywhere—was once the tallest building in Scandinavia (55 kr, June-Aug Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00, Sun until 19:00, shorter hours off-season, restaurant on 28th floor, east of downtown—bus #69 from Nybroplan or Sergels Torg to Kaknästornet Södra stop, tel. 08/667-2105, www.kaknastornet.se).
This bright, cheery gallery on Skeppsholmen island is as far out as can be. For serious art lovers, it warrants ▲▲. The impressive permanent collection includes modernist all-stars such as Picasso, Braque, Dalí, Matisse, Munch, Kokoschka, and Dix; lots of goofy Dada art (including a copy of Duchamp’s urinal); Pollock, Twombly, Bacon, and other postmodern works; and plenty of excellent contemporary stuff as well (don’t miss the beloved Rauschenberg Goat with Tire).
The curator draws from this substantial well of masterpieces to assemble changing exhibits. The building also houses the Architecture and Design Center, with changing exhibits on those topics (www.arkdes.se, covered by a separate ticket). All of the exhibits are illuminated by an excellent, free audioguide that makes modern art meaningful to visitors who might not otherwise appreciate it (download the audioguide app using the museum’s Wi-Fi).
Cost and Hours: Museum-120 kr, Architecture and Design Center-80 kr, 180 kr for both, free on Fri from 18:00; Tue and Fri 10:00-20:00, Wed-Thu and Sat-Sun 10:00-18:00, closed Mon; fine bookstore, harborview café, T-bana: Kungsträdgården plus 10-minute walk, or take bus #65, tel. 08/5202-3500, www.modernamuseet.se.
What this ritzy residential area lacks in museums, it makes up for in posh style. Explore its stately streets, dine in its destination restaurants, and be sure to explore the delightful, upscale Saluhall food market right on Östermalmstorg (see here). Östermalm’s harborfront is hemmed in by the pleasant park called Nybroplan; from here, ferries lead to various parts of the city and beyond (as this is the jumping-off point for cruises into Stockholm’s archipelago). If connecting to the sights in Djurgården, consider doing Östermalm by foot.
Enjoy Stockholm’s ever-expanding shoreline promenades. Tracing the downtown shoreline while dodging in-line skaters and ice-cream trolleys (rather than cars and buses), you can walk from Slussen across Gamla Stan, all the way to the good ship Vasa in Djurgården. Perhaps the best stretch is along the waterfront Strandvägen street (from Nybroplan past weather-beaten old boats and fancy facades to Djurgården). As you stroll, keep in mind that there’s free fishing in central Stockholm, and the harbor waters are restocked every spring with thousands of new fish. Locals tell of one lucky lad who pulled in an 80-pound salmon. The waterside lanes are extremely bike-friendly here and throughout Stockholm.
Four hundred years ago, Djurgården was the king’s hunting ground (the name means “Animal Garden”). You’ll see the royal gate to the island immediately after the bridge that connects it to the mainland. Now this entire lush island is Stockholm’s fun center, protected as a national park. It still has a smattering of animal life among its biking paths, picnicking families, art galleries, various amusements, and museums, which are some of the best in Scandinavia.
Orientation: Of the three great sights on the island, the Vasa and Nordic museums are neighbors, and Skansen is a 10-minute walk away (or hop on any bus or tram—they come every couple of minutes). Several lesser or special-interest attractions (from the ABBA museum to an amusement park) are also nearby.
To get around more easily, consider renting a bike as you enter the island. You can get one at Sjöcaféet, a café just over the Djurgårdsbron bridge; they also rent boats (bikes-80 kr/hour, 275 kr/day; canoes-150 kr/hour, kayaks-125 kr/hour; open May-Oct daily 9:00-21:00, closed off-season and in bad weather; handy city cycle maps, tel. 08/660-5757, www.sjocafeet.se).
In the concrete building upstairs from the café, you’ll find a Djurgården visitors center, with free maps, island bike routes, brochures, and information about the day’s events (you can also buy ABBA museum tickets here; center open daily in summer 8:00-20:00, shorter hours off-season).
Getting There: Take tram #7 from Sergels Torg (the stop is right under the highway overpass) or Nybroplan (in front of the gilded theater building) and get off at one of these stops: Nordic Museum (used also for Vasa Museum), Liljevalc Gröna Lund (for ABBA museum), or Skansen. In summer, you can take a ferry from Nybroplan or Slussen (see “Getting Around Stockholm,” earlier). Walkers enjoy the harborside Strandvägen promenade, which leads from Nybroplan directly to the island (described under “Waterside Walk,” earlier).
Founded in 1891, Skansen was the first in what became a Europe-wide movement to preserve traditional architecture in open-air museums. It’s a huge park gathering more than 150 historic buildings (homes, churches, shops, and schoolhouses) transplanted from all corners of Sweden. Other languages have borrowed the Swedish term “Skansen” (which originally meant “the Fort”) to describe an “open-air museum.” Today, tourists enjoy exploring this Swedish-culture-on-a-lazy-Susan, seeing folk crafts in action and wonderfully furnished old interiors. Kids love Skansen, where they can ride a life-size wooden Dala-horse and stare down a hedgehog, visit Lill-Skansen (a children’s zoo), and take a mini-train or pony ride. While it’s lively June through August before about 17:00, at other times of the year it can seem pretty dead; consider skipping it if you’re here off-season.
Cost and Hours: 160 kr, kids-60 kr, less off-season; park open daily May-late-June 10:00-19:00, late-June-Aug 10:00-22:00, Sept 10:00-18:00, Oct and March-April 10:00-16:00, Nov-Feb 10:00-15:00; historical buildings generally open 11:00-17:00, late June-Aug some until 19:00, most closed in winter. Check their excellent website for “What’s Happening at Skansen” during your visit (www.skansen.se) or call 08/442-8000 (press 1 for a live operator).
Music: Skansen does great music in summer. There’s fiddling (30-minute performances June-Aug Tue-Fri at 18:15), folk dancing (June-Aug Tue-Fri at 19:00, also Sat-Sun at 16:00), and public dancing to live bands (Mon-Sat from 20:00, call for that evening’s theme—big band, modern, ballroom, folk). Confirm performance times before you go.
Visiting Skansen: Skansen isn’t designed as a one-way loop; it’s a sprawling network of lanes and buildings, yours to explore. For the full story, invest in the 75-kr museum guidebook. With the book, you’ll understand each building you duck into and even learn about the Nordic animals awaiting you in the zoo. Check the live crafts schedule at the information stand by the main entrance to make a smart Skansen plan. Guides throughout the park are happy to answer your questions—but only if you ask them. The old houses come alive when you take the initiative to get information.
From the entrance, bear left to find the escalator, and ride it up to “The Town Quarter” (Stadskvarteren), where shoemakers, potters, and glassblowers are busy doing their traditional thing (daily 10:00-17:00) in a re-created Old World Stockholm. Continuing deeper into the park—past the bakery, spice shop/grocery, hardware store, and a cute little courtyard café—you’ll reach the central square, Bollnästorget (signed as “Central Skansen” but labeled on English maps as “Market Street”), with handy food stands. The rest of Sweden spreads out from here. Northern Swedish culture and architecture is in the north (top of park map), and southern Sweden’s in the south (bottom of map). Various homesteads—each one clustered protectively around an inner courtyard—are scattered around the complex.
Poke around. Follow signs—or your instincts. It’s worth stepping into the old, red-wood Seglora Church (just past Bollnästorget), which aches with atmosphere under painted beams. The park has two different zoos: Lill-Skansen is a children’s petting zoo. Beyond the big brick spa tower and carnival rides sprawls the Scandinavian Animals section, with bears, wolves, moose (“elk”), seals, reindeer (near the Sami camp), and other animals.
Eating at Skansen: The park has ample eating options to suit every budget. The most memorable—and affordable—meals are at the small folk food court on the main square, Bollnästorget. Here, among the duck-filled lakes, frolicking families, and peacenik local toddlers who don’t bump on the bumper cars, kiosks dish up “Sami slow food” (smoked reindeer), waffles, hot dogs, and more. There are lots of picnic benches—Skansen encourages picnicking. (A small grocery store is tucked away across the street and a bit to the left of the main entrance.)
For a sit-down meal, the old-time Stora Gungan Krog, right at the top of the escalator in the craftsmen’s quarter, is a cozy inn (100-180-kr indoor or outdoor lunches—meat, fish, or veggie—with a salad-and-cracker bar). Another snug spot is Gubbhyllan, on the ground floor and fine porch of an old house (90-kr sandwiches, 130-160-kr meals, at base of escalator, just past main entrance). For a less atmospheric choice, consider one of three restaurants that share a modern building facing the grandstand (just up the hill inside the main entrance), all with nice views over the city: the simple Skansen Terrassen cafeteria (100-170-kr meals); Tre Byttor Taverne, with 18th-century pub ambience (140-kr lunches, 170-240-kr main courses); and, upstairs, the fussy Solliden restaurant, with a dated blue-and-white dining hall facing a wall of windows; the main reason to eat here is the big smörgåsbord lunch (370 kr, served 12:00-16:00).
Aquarium: The “aquarium”—featuring lemurs, meerkats, baboons, Gila monsters, giant anacondas, rattlesnakes, geckos, crocodiles, colorful tree frogs, and small sharks...but almost no fish—is located within Skansen, but is not covered by your Skansen ticket. Only animal lovers find it worth the steep admission price, but if you have a Stockholm Card, it’s a fun and free walk-through (120 kr, Sept-May daily 10:00-16:00, tel. 08/660-1082, www.skansen-akvariet.se).
Stockholm turned a titanic flop into one of Europe’s great sightseeing attractions. The glamorous but unseaworthy warship Vasa—top-heavy with an extra cannon deck—sank 40 minutes into her 1628 maiden voyage when a breeze caught the sails and blew her over. After 333 years at the bottom of Stockholm’s harbor, she rose again from the deep with the help of marine archaeologists. Rediscovered in 1956 and raised in 1961, this Edsel of the sea is today the best-preserved ship of its age anywhere—housed since 1990 in a brilliant museum. The masts perched atop the roof—best seen from a distance—show the actual height of the ship.
Cost and Hours: 130 kr, includes film and tour; daily June-Aug 8:30-18:00; Sept-May 10:00-17:00 except Wed until 20:00; WCs on level 3, good café, Galärvarvet, Djurgården, tel. 08/5195-4800, www.vasamuseet.se.
Getting There: The Vasa is on the waterfront immediately behind the stately brick Nordic Museum (described later), a 10-minute walk from Skansen. Or you can take tram #7 from downtown. To get from the Nordic Museum to the Vasa Museum, face the Nordic Museum and walk around to the right (going left takes you into a big dead-end parking lot).
Crowd-Beating Tips: The museum can have very long lines, but they generally move quickly—you likely won’t wait more than 15-20 minutes. If crowds are a concern, get here either right when it opens, or after about 16:00 (but note that the last tour starts at 16:30).
Tours: The free 25-minute tour is worthwhile. Because each guide is given license to cover whatever he or she likes, no two tours are alike—if you’re fascinated by the place, consider taking two different tours to pick up new details. In summer, English tours run on the hour and half-hour (last tour at 16:30); off-season (Sept-May) tours go 3/day Mon-Fri, hourly Sat-Sun (last tour at 15:30). Listen for the loudspeaker announcement, or check at the info desk for the next tour. Alternatively, you can access the audioguide by logging onto the museum’s Wi-Fi (www.vasamuseet.se/audioguide).
Film: The excellent 17-minute film digitally re-creates Vasa-era Stockholm (and the colorfully painted ship itself), dramatizes its sinking, and documents the modern-day excavation and preservation of the vessel. It generally runs three times per hour; virtually all showings are either in English or with English subtitles.
Visiting the Museum: For a thorough visit, plan on spending at least an hour and a half—watch the film, take a guided tour, and linger over the exhibits (this works in any order). After buying your ticket, head inside. Sort out your film and tour options at the information desk to your right.
Upon entry, you’re prow-to-prow with the great ship. The Vasa, while not quite the biggest ship in the world when launched in 1628, had the most firepower, with two fearsome decks of cannons. The 500 carved wooden statues draping the ship—once painted in bright colors—are all symbolic of the king’s power. The 10-foot lion on the magnificent prow is a reminder that Europe considered the Swedish King Gustavus Adolphus the “Lion from the North.” With this great ship, Sweden was preparing to establish its empire and become more engaged in European power politics. Specifically, the Swedes (who already controlled much of today’s Finland and Estonia) wanted to push south to dominate the whole of the Baltic Sea, in order to challenge their powerful rival, Poland.
Designed by a Dutch shipbuilder, the Vasa had 72 guns of the same size and type (a rarity on mix-and-match warships of the age), allowing maximum efficiency in reloading—since there was no need to keep track of different ammunition. Unfortunately, the king’s unbending demands to build it high (172 feet tall) but skinny made it extremely unstable; no amount of ballast could weigh the ship down enough to prevent it from tipping.
Now explore the exhibits, which are situated on six levels around the grand hall, circling the ship itself. All displays are well described in English. You’ll learn about the ship’s rules (bread can’t be older than eight years), why it sank (heavy bread?), how it’s preserved (the ship, not the bread), and so on. Best of all is the chance to do slow laps around the magnificent vessel at different levels. Now painstakingly restored, 98 percent of the Vasa’s wood is original (modern bits are the brighter and smoother planks).
On level 4 (the entrance level), right next to the ship, you’ll see a 1:10 scale model of the Vasa in its prime—vividly painted and fully rigged with sails. Farther along, models show how the Vasa was salvaged; a colorful children’s section re-creates the time period; and a 10-minute multimedia show explains why the Vasa sank (alternating between English and Swedish showings). Heading behind the ship, you’ll enjoy a great view of the sculpture-slathered stern of the Vasa. The facing wall features full-size replicas of the carvings, demonstrating how the ship was originally colorfully painted.
Several engaging displays are on level 5. “Life On Board” lets you walk through the gun deck and study cutaway models of the hive of activity that hummed below decks (handy, since you can’t enter the actual ship). Artifacts—including clothes actually worn by the sailors—were salvaged along with the ship. “Battle!” is a small exhibit of cannons and an explanation of naval warfare.
Level 6 features “The Sailing Ship,” with models demonstrating how the Vasa and similar vessels actually sailed. You’ll see the (very scant) remains of some of the Vasa’s actual riggings and sails. Level 7 gives you even higher views over the ship.
Don’t miss level 2—all the way at the bottom (ride the handy industrial-size elevator)—with some of the most interesting exhibits. “The Shipyard” explains how this massive and majestic vessel was brought into being using wood from tranquil Swedish forests. Tucked under the ship’s prow is a laboratory where today’s scientists continue with their preservation efforts. The “Objects” exhibit shows off actual items found in the shipwreck, while “Face to Face” introduces you to some of those who perished when the Vasa sunk—with faces that were re-created from skeletal remains. Nearby, you’ll see some of the skeletons found in the shipwreck.
As you exit, you’ll pass a hall of (generally excellent) temporary exhibits.
Built to look like a Danish Renaissance palace, this museum offers a fascinating peek at 500 years of traditional Swedish lifestyles. The exhibits insightfully place everyday items into their social/historical context in ways that help you really grasp various chapters of Sweden’s past. It’s arguably more informative than Skansen. Take time to let the excellent, included audioguide enliven the exhibits.
Cost and Hours: 100 kr, free Wed after 17:00 Sept-May; daily 10:00-17:00, Wed until 20:00 Sept-May; Djurgårdsvägen 6-16, at Djurgårdsbron, tram #7 from downtown, tel. 08/5195-6000, www.nordiskamuseet.se.
Visiting the Museum: Entering the museum’s main hall, you’ll be face-to-face with Carl Milles’ huge painted-wood statue of Gustav Vasa, father of modern Sweden. The rest of this floor is usually devoted to temporary exhibits.
Highlights of the permanent collection are on the top two floors. Head up the stairs, or take the elevator just to the left of Gustav. Begin on floor 4 and work your way down.
On floor 4, four different exhibits ring the grand atrium. The “Homes and Interiors” section displays 400 years of home decor. As you travel through time—from dark, heavily draped historical rooms to modern living rooms, and from rustic countryside cottages to aristocratic state bedrooms—you’ll learn the subtle meaning behind everyday furniture that we take for granted. For example, the advent of television didn’t just change entertainment—it gave people a reason to gather each evening in the living room, which, in turn, became a more-used (and less formal) part of people’s homes. You’ll learn about the Swedish designers who, in the 1930s, eschewed stiff-backed traditional chairs in favor of sleek perches that merged ergonomics and looks—giving birth to functionalism.
Also on this floor, the “Folk Art” section shows off colorfully painted furniture and wood carvings; vibrant traditional costumes; and rustic Bible-story illustrations that adorned the walls of peasants’ homes. The “Sápmi” exhibit tells the fascinating and often overlooked story of the indigenous Sami people (formerly called “Lapps”), who lived in the northern reaches of Norway, Sweden, Finland, and Russia centuries before Europeans created those modern nations. On display are shoes, ceremonial knives, colorful hats and clothing, and other features of Sami culture. You’ll learn how their nomadic lifestyle—following their herds of grazing reindeer—allowed them to survive so far north, and how the Sami (who still number around 20,000) have had an impact on greater Swedish society. Finally, tucked behind the stairwell, the “Small Things” collection shows off timepieces, ceramics, and tobacco pipes, among other items.
Floor 3 has several smaller exhibits. The most interesting are “Table Settings” (with carefully set tables from the last century, representing different time periods, social classes, and occasions—from an elegant tea party to a rowdy pub) and “Traditions” (showing and describing each old-time celebration of the Swedish year—from Christmas to Midsummer—as well as funerals, confirmations, and other life events). Also on display: 300 years of Swedish clothing illustrating how we define ourselves through our attire; jewelry and textile exhibits; a dollhouse and toy collection; and a photo exhibition pulled from the museum’s archive.
The Swedish pop group ABBA was, for a time, a bigger business than Volvo. After bursting on the scene in 1974 by winning the Eurovision Song Contest with “Waterloo,” and increasing their fame by serenading Sweden’s newly minted queen with “Dancing Queen” in 1976, they’ve sold more than 380 million records, and the musical based on their many hits, Mamma Mia!, has been enjoyed by 50 million people. It was only a matter of time before Stockholm opened an ABBA museum, which is conveniently located just across the street from Skansen and next to Gröna Lund amusement park. Like everything ABBA, it is aggressively for-profit and slickly promoted, with the steepest ticket price in town (not covered by Stockholm Card). True to its subject, it’s bombastic, glitzy, and highly interactive. If you like ABBA, it’s lots of fun; if you love ABBA, it’s ▲▲▲ nirvana.
Cost and Hours: 195 kr, 500-kr family ticket covers two adults and up to four kids, cash not accepted, daily 10:00-20:00, shorter hours off-season—likely until 18:00, Djurgårdsvägen 68, bus #44 or tram #7 to Liljevalc Gröna Lund stop, tel. 08/1213-2860, www.abbathemuseum.com.
Audioguide: ABBA aficionados will happily fork over 40 kr extra for the intimate audioguide, in which Agnetha, Benny, Björn, and Anni-Frid share their memories, in their own words.
Getting In: To control the crowds, only 75 people are let in every 15 minutes with timed-entry tickets. The museum strongly encourages getting tickets in advance from their website or at the TI. In fact, they’ll charge you 20 kr extra per ticket to book one in person (but computer terminals are standing by if you want to “pre-book” on the spot). It can be crowded on summer weekends, in which case you may have to wait for a later time.
Visiting the Museum: The museum is high-tech, with plenty of actual ABBA artifacts, re-created rooms where the group did its composing and recording (including their famous “Polar Studio” and their rustic archipelago cottage), a room full of gold and platinum records, plenty of high-waisted sequined pantsuits, and lots of high-energy video screens. Everything is explained in English.
Included in the ticket is a “digital key” that lets you take advantage of several interactive stations. For example, you can record a music video karaoke-style as a fifth member of the group—with virtual ABBA members dancing around you—and pick up the production from their website. A small wing features the Swedish Music Hall of Fame, but apart from that, it’s all ABBA.
While the tram zips sightseers between the Vasa Museum and Skansen, it’s a short, enjoyable, and very scenic walk along the waterfront—a delight on a nice day. You’ll see food stands, boats bobbing in the harbor, and sunbathing Swedes.
You’ll also pass several sights. Between the Vasa Museum and the Djurgårdsbron bridge is Junibacken, a fairy-tale house based on the writings of Astrid Lindgren, who created Pippi Longstocking. While oriented toward Swedish kids, American children may enjoy it, too (entry fee, www.junibacken.se). The pier directly in front of the Vasa Museum is actually part of the Maritime Museum (Sjöhistoriska), where historic ships are moored (typically big icebreakers from the Arctic, and sometimes military boats). Farther south, near the amusement park, is the Maritime Museum’s boat hall #2 (Båthall 2), filled with more boats and exhibits (free entry to all Maritime Museum sights, www.sjohistoriska.se). And halfway along the waterfront is the following odd but endearing museum that offers a weird but welcome break from heavier sightseeing.
The museum’s highly conceptual permanent exhibit considers the role of alcohol—and specifically, flavored vodkas—in Swedish society. While Sweden got a reputation for its “loose morals” in the 1970s (mostly surrounding sex and nudity), at the same time it was extremely puritanical when it came to alcohol; the government actively tried to get Swedes to stop drinking (hence the liquor-store system and sky-high alcohol taxes that still exist). In the exhibit’s season-themed rooms, you’ll be able to smell different types of flavored liquors (orange in the spring, elderflower in the summer, and so on); upstairs, you can ace a virtual pub quiz, recline (or nap) in the boozy drunk-simulator room, and step into a garishly lit, buzzing room that simulates a hangover. The temporary exhibits here are also quite good.
Cost and Hours: 100 kr, 200-kr ticket adds a taster kit of flavored vodkas; daily June-Aug 10:00-18:00, Sept-May 10:00-17:00, Tue until 20:00 year-round, Djurgårdsvägen 38, tel. 08/1213-1300, www.spritmuseum.se.
Stockholm’s venerable and lowbrow Tivoli-type amusement park still packs in the local families and teens on cheap dates. It’s a busy venue for local pop concerts.
Cost and Hours: 110 kr, late April-late Sept daily 12:00-23:00, closed off-season, www.gronalund.com.
If you liked the Larsson and Zorn art in the National Gallery, and/or if you’re a Munch fan, this charming mansion on the water at the far end of the Djurgården park is worth the trip.
Cost and Hours: 100 kr, Tue-Sun 12:00-17:00, closed Mon, bus #69 (not #69K) from downtown, tel. 08/662-5884, www.thielska-galleriet.se.
In all of Stockholm, Djurgården is the most natural place to enjoy a bike ride. There’s a good and reasonably priced bike-rental place just over the bridge as you enter the island (see here), and a world of park-like paths and lanes with harbor vistas to enjoy.
Ask for a free map and route tips when you rent your bike. Figure about an hour to pedal around Djurgården’s waterfront perimeter; it’s mostly flat, but with some short, steeper stretches that take you up and over the middle of the island. Those who venture beyond the Skansen park find themselves nearly all alone in the lush and evocative environs.
At the summit of the island you’ll come upon Rosendal’s Garden, with a bakery and café (daily 11:00-17:00). You can sit in the greenhouse or in the delightful orchard or flower garden, where locals come to pick a bouquet and pay by the weight. (The garden is fertilized by the horse pies from adjacent Skansen.) Just beyond is the Rosendals Slott, the cute mini-palace of Karl Johans XIV, founder of the Bernadotte dynasty. This palace, in the so-called Karl Johans style (“Empire style”), went together in prefabricated sections in the 1820s. The story is told on a board in front, and a 9-ton porphyry vase graces the backyard.
A garden café at the eastern tip of the island offers a scenic break midway through your pedal. For a longer ride, you can cross the canal to the Ladugårdsgärdet peninsula (“Gärdet” for short), a swanky, wooded residential district just to the north.
Just south of Gamla Stan, the Södermalm district is the downscale antidote to the upscale, ritzy areas where most tourists spend their time (Norrmalm, Östermalm, Djurgården, and Gamla Stan). Södermalm recently has been in vogue thanks to Stieg Larsson’s Girl with the Dragon Tattoo novels, in which Lisbeth Salander and her cohorts represent the “real,” hardscrabble Stockholm (all the villains come from the posh north side). While the area has few tourist sights (aside from the Stockholm City Museum, which is closed for renovation through 2017), it offers fine views and is a fun place to eat (for recommendations, see here). Towering over Södermalm’s main road is the Skrapan building, with the Himlen view terrace on its 25th floor (see sidebar on here). The big white sphere on the horizon is the Ericsson Globe, a hockey arena.
With newfound popularity comes investment, and Södermalm is gentrifying quickly—giving it something of a split personality. While the often-repeated comparison to “Stockholm’s Brooklyn” is a stretch (this relatively sterile area lacks the loosey-goosey hipster charm of many such neighborhoods in the US and other parts of Europe), it does have a nice variety of shops, squares, restaurants, and bars where locals outnumber tourists. The most interesting areas to explore are along Götgatan and the zone south of Folkungagatan street—nicknamed “SoFo.”
Getting There: To stroll this area, simply head from Gamla Stan through the confusing Slussen transit mess. Facing the big P-hus Slussen tunnel, turn right one block into the pedestrian area (uphill, passing the T-bana station on your left and the Stockholm City Museum on your right), then left onto colorful Götgatan, and head on up the hill. Alternatively, you can ride the T-bana to Medborgarplatsen, which puts you right on the area’s main market square (but misses the interesting shops along Götgatan). Medborgarplatsen itself is a wonderful workaday plaza that feels like the center of a big urban neighborhood. Ringed by fun eateries, it’s great for people-watching.
The home and garden of Carl Milles, Sweden’s greatest sculptor, is less than an hour from the city center. For sights farther outside Stockholm (all reachable by public transportation), see the next chapter.
The villa and garden of Carl Milles is a veritable forest of statues by Sweden’s greatest sculptor. Millesgården is dramatically situated on a bluff overlooking the harbor in Stockholm’s upper-class suburb of Lidingö. While the art is engaging and enjoyable, even the curators have little to say about it from an interpretive point of view—so your visit is basically without guidance. But in Milles’ house, which dates from the 1920s, you can see his north-lit studio and get a sense of his creative genius.
Carl Milles spent much of his career teaching at the Cranbrook Academy of Art in Michigan. But he’s buried here at his villa, where he lived and worked for 20 years, lovingly designing this sculpture garden for the public. Milles wanted his art to be displayed on pedestals...to be seen “as if silhouettes against the sky.” His subjects—often Greek mythological figures such as Pegasus or Poseidon—stand out as if the sky was a blank paper. Yet unlike silhouettes, Milles’ images can be enjoyed from many angles. And Milles liked to enliven his sculptures by incorporating water features into his figures. Hand of God, perhaps his most famous work, gives insight into Milles’ belief that when the artist created, he was—in a way—divinely inspired.
Cost and Hours: 100 kr; daily 11:00-17:00 except closed Mon in Oct-April; English booklet explains the art, restaurant and café, tel. 08/446-7590, www.millesgarden.se.
Getting There: Catch the T-bana to Ropsten, then take bus #207 to within a five-minute walk of the museum; several other #200-series buses also get you close enough to walk (allow about 45 minutes total each way).
Sweden offers a world of shopping temptations. Smaller stores are open weekdays 10:00-18:00, Saturdays until 17:00, and Sundays 11:00-16:00. Some of the bigger stores (such as NK, H&M, and Åhléns) are open later on Saturdays and Sundays.
These chains have multiple branches around town; the most convenient are marked on the map on here.
DesignTorget, dedicated to contemporary Swedish design, receives a commission for selling the unique works of local designers (generally Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00, Sat 10:00-18:00, Sun 11:00-17:00, big branch underneath Sergels Torg—enter from basement level of Kulturhuset, other branches are at Nybrogatan 23 and at the airport, www.designtorget.se).
Systembolaget is Sweden’s state-run liquor store chain. A sample of each bottle of wine or liquor sits in a display case. A card in front explains how it tastes and suggests menu pairings. Look for the item number and order at the counter. Branches are in Hötorget underneath the movie theater complex, in Norrmalm at Vasagatan 21, and just up from Östermalmstorgat Nybrogatan 47 (Mon-Wed 10:00-18:00, Thu-Fri 10:00-19:00, Sat 10:00-15:00, closed Sun, www.systembolaget.se).
The main shopping zone between Kungsträdgården and Sergels Torg (described in “Stockholm’s Modern City Walk” on here) has plenty of huge department stores. At the top of Kungsträdgården, Illums Bolighus is a Danish design shop. Across the street, Nordiska Kompaniet (NK) is elegant and stately; the Swedish design (downstairs) and kitchenware sections are particularly impressive. The classy Gallerian mall is just up the street from NK and stretches seductively nearly to Sergels Torg. The Åhléns store, kitty-corner across Sergels Torg, is less expensive than NK and has two cafeterias and a supermarket. Affordable clothing chain H&M has a store right across the street.
The city’s most exclusive mall is a downtown block filled with big-name Swedish and international designers, plus a pricey food court and restaurants. The preciously upscale decor and mellow music give it a Beverly Hills vibe (Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00, Sat 10:00-18:00, Sun 11:00-17:00, Regeringsgatan 48). This mall anchors a ritzy, pedestrianized shopping zone; for additional trendy and exclusive shops, browse the nearby streets Jakobsbergsgatan and Biblioteksgatan.
When Swedes want the latest items by local designers, they skip the downtown malls and head for funky Södermalm. Götgatan, the main drag that leads from Slussen up to this neighborhood, is a particularly good choice, with shop after shop of mostly Swedish designers. Boutiques along here—some of them one-offs, others belonging to Swedish chains—include Weekday (jeans and dressed-up casual), Filippa K (smart casual and business attire), and Tiogruppen (bold bags and fabrics).
This short and pleasant traffic-free street, which connects Östermalmstorg with the Nybroplan waterfront, is lined with small branches of interesting design shops, including Nordiska Galleriet (eye-catching modern furniture, at #11), DesignTorget (described earlier, at #16), and Hemslöjden (Swedish handicrafts, at #23). It also has shoe and handbag stores, and an enticing cheese shop and bakery.
For a smörgåsbord of Scanjunk, visit the Loppmarknaden, northern Europe’s biggest flea market, at Vårberg Center (free entry weekdays and Sat-Sun after 15:00, 15 kr on weekends—when it’s busiest; open Mon-Fri 11:00-18:00, Sat 10:00-16:00, Sun 11:00-16:00; T-bana: Vårberg, tel. 08/710-0060, www.loppmarknaden.se). Hötorget, the produce market, also hosts a Sunday flea market in summer (see here).
The street called Stora Nygatan, with several lively bars, has perhaps the most accessible and reliable place for live jazz in town: Stampen. Several pubs here offer live Irish traditional music sessions or bluegrass several times each week; they tend to share musicians, who sometimes gather at one of these pubs for impromptu jam sessions (ask around, or stroll this street with your ears peeled). While it may seem odd to listen to Irish or bluegrass music in Stockholm, these venues are extremely popular with locals.
Stampen Jazz & Rhythm ’n’ Blues Pub has two venues under one roof: a stone-vaulted cellar below and a fun-loving saloon-like bar upstairs (check out the old instruments and antiques hanging from the ceiling). From Monday through Thursday, there’s live music in the saloon. On Friday and Saturday, bands alternate sets in both the saloon and the cellar (160-kr cover Fri-Sat only, open Mon-Thu 17:00-late, Fri-Sun 20:00-late, special free jam session Sat 14:00-18:00, Stora Nygatan 5, tel. 08/205-793, www.stampen.se). For the location, see the map on here.
Several other lively spots are within a couple of blocks of Stampen on Stora Nygatan. Your options include Wirströms Pub (live blues bands play in crowded cellar Tue-Sat 21:00-24:00, no cover, 62-kr beers, open daily 11:00-late, Stora Nygatan 13, www.wirstromspub.se); O’Connells Irish Pub (a lively expat sports bar with music—usually Tue-Sat at 21:00, open daily 12:00-late, Stora Nygatan 21, www.oconnells.se); and The Liffey (classic Irish pub with 150-180-kr pub grub, live music Wed and Fri-Sun at 21:30, open daily 11:00-late, Stora Nygatan 40-42, www.theliffey.se).
If you just want to put on a heavy coat and gloves and drink a fancy vodka in a modern-day igloo, consider the fun, if touristy, Icebar Stockholm. Everything’s ice—shipped down from Sweden’s far north. The bar, the glasses, even the tip jar are made of ice. You get your choice of vodka drinks and 45 minutes to enjoy the scene (online booking-185 kr, drop-ins pay 10 kr more—on weekends drop-ins only allowed after 21:45, additional drinks-95 kr, reservations smart; daily June-Aug 11:15-24:00, Sept-May 15:00-24:00; in the Nordic C Hotel adjacent to the main train station’s Arlanda Express platform at Vasaplan 4, tel. 08/5056-3124, www.icebarstockholm.se). If you go too early, it can be really dead—you’ll be all alone. At busy times, people are let in all at once every 45 minutes. That means there’s a long line for drinks, and the place goes from being very crowded to almost empty as people gradually melt away. At first everyone’s just snapping photos. While there are ice bars all over Europe now, this is the second one (after the Ice Hotel in Lapland). And it really is pretty cool...a steady 23°F.
In Sweden, international movies are shown in their original language with Swedish subtitles. Swedish theaters sometimes charge more for longer films, and tickets come with assigned seats (drop by to choose seats and buy a ticket, box offices generally open 11:00-22:00 daily). The Hötorget and Drottninggatan neighborhoods have many theaters.
To treat yourself to a Swedish spa experience—maybe with an authentic “Swedish massage”—head for the elegant circa-1900 CentralBadet Spa. It’s along downtown’s main strolling street, Drottninggatan, tucked back inside a tranquil and inviting garden courtyard. Admission includes entry to an extensive gym, “bubblepool,” sauna, steam room, “herbal/crystal sauna,” and an elegant Art Nouveau pool. Most areas are mixed, with men and women together, but some areas are reserved for women. If you won’t make it to Finland, enjoy a sauna here (for more on saunas, see here). Bring your towel into the sauna—not for modesty, but for hygiene (to separate your body from the bench). The steam room is mixed; bring two towels (one for modesty and the other to sit on). The pool is more for floating than for jumping and splashing. The leafy courtyard restaurant is a relaxing place to enjoy affordable, healthy, and light meals (220 kr, increases to 320 kr on Sat, towels and robes available for rent; slippers are required—20 kr to buy, 10 kr to rent; open Mon-Fri 7:00-20:30, Sat 9:00-20:30, Sun 9:00-17:30, last entry one hour before closing, ages 18 and up, Drottninggatan 88, 10 minutes up from Sergels Torg, tel. 08/5452-1300, reservation tel. 08/218-821, www.centralbadet.se).
Between business travelers and the tourist trade, demand for Stockholm’s hotels is healthy but unpredictable, and most hotels’ rates vary from day to day. For each hotel (for comparison’s sake), I’ve listed the average price for a standard double room in high season (mid-June-mid-Aug)—but your rate will almost certainly be higher or lower, depending on the timing of your visit. Use my descriptions to determine which hotels interest you, then check the specific rates online; it’s easiest to do this on a comparison booking site (but once you see the rates, book directly with the hotel, which may net you a lower price). For more booking tips, see here.
A program called Destination Stockholm is, for many (especially families), the best way to book a big hotel on weekends or during the summer. When you reserve a hotel room through this service, it includes a free Stockholm à la Carte card, which covers public transportation, most major sights, and lots of tours for the duration of your visit (even better than the Stockholm Card). Kids sleep free (and also get the card). Reserve by phone or online; be sure to review the cancellation policy before you commit (tel. 08/663-0080, www.destination-stockholm.com).
Consider hostels. Stockholm’s hostels are among Europe’s best, offering good beds in simple but interesting places for about 300 kr per night for a dorm bed. Each has helpful English-speaking staff, pleasant family rooms, and good facilities.
$$$ Freys Hotel is a Scan-mod, four-star place, with 127 compact, smartly designed rooms. It’s well-situated for train travelers, located on a dead-end pedestrian street across from the central station. While big, it works hard to be friendly and welcoming. Its cool, candlelit breakfast room becomes a bar in the evening, popular for its selection of Belgian microbrews (Sb-1,750 kr, Db-2,470 kr, check website for specials as low as Db-1,750 kr, air-con, guest computer, Wi-Fi, Bryggargatan 12, tel. 08/5062-1300, www.freyshotels.com, freys@freyshotels.com).
$$$ Scandic Kungsgatan, central but characterless, fills the top floors of a downsized department store with 270 rooms. If the Starship Enterprise had a low-end hotel, this would be it. Save about 100 kr by taking a “cabin” room with no windows—the same size as other rooms, quiet, and well-ventilated (Db-2,000 kr, air-con, guest computer, Wi-Fi, Kungsgatan 47, tel. 08/723-7220, www.scandichotels.com, kungsgatan@scandichotels.com).
$$ HTL Kungsgatan, jamming modernity into a classic old building a few blocks from the station, takes a futuristic approach to providing just what travelers really need—and nothing else. You reserve online, then check in at a self-service kiosk on arrival. Roving receptionists are standing by in the coffee bar for any needs. The 274 rooms are small and functional (no desk or chairs) but trendy and comfortable. Everything surrounds a stylish, glassy atrium boasting a hip lounge/restaurant with a youthful party vibe and live music until 24:00 on most weekends (Sb/Db-1,700 kr, can be much lower—around 700 kr—in slow times, 100 kr less for windowless but well-ventilated “sleeper” room, breakfast-75 kr, air-con, elevator, Wi-Fi, Kungsgatan 53, tel. 08/4108-4150, www.htlhotels.com, htlkungsgatan@htlhotels.com).
$$ Queen’s Hotel enjoys a great location at the quiet top end of Stockholm’s main pedestrian shopping street (about a 10-minute walk from the train station, or 15 minutes from Gamla Stan). The 59 rooms are well worn, but reasonably priced for the convenient location. Rooms facing the courtyard are quieter (Sb-1,100 kr, Db-1,300 kr, bigger “superior” Db with pull-out sofa bed-1,900, 10 percent discount for readers who book direct—ask for it; if booking online enter rate code “RICKS” in all caps, extra bed-250 kr, elevator, guest computer, Wi-Fi, Drottninggatan 71A, tel. 08/249-460, www.queenshotel.se, info@queenshotel.se).
$$ Hotel Bema, a bit farther out than the others listed in this section, is a humble place that rents 12 fine rooms for some of the best prices in town (S-900 kr, Db-1,100 kr, extra person-250 kr, breakfast served at nearby café, bus #65 from station to Upplandsgatan 13—near the top of the Drottninggatan pedestrian street, or walk about 15 minutes from the train station—exit toward Vasagatan and head straight up that street, tel. 08/232-675, www.hotelbema.se, info@hotelbema.se).
$ City Backpackers, with 140 beds a quarter-mile from the station, is youthful but classy (bunk in 8- to 12-bed room-230 kr, in 6-bed room-290 kr, in 4-bed room-320 kr; bunk-bed D-740 kr, 40 percent more for Fri- or Sat-night stay without weeknight; sheets-25 kr, free cook-it-yourself pasta, breakfast-55 kr, pay laundry, guest computer, Wi-Fi, movies, tours, sauna, lockers, Upplandsgatan 2A, tel. 08/206-920, www.citybackpackers.se, info@citybackpackers.se).
$ City Lodge Hostel, on a quiet side street just a block from the central train station, has 68 beds, a convivial lounge, and a kitchen with free cooking staples (bunk in 18-bed dorm-220 kr, in 6-bed dorm-275 kr, in quad-315 kr; a few tiny bunk-bed doubles-640 kr, bigger D-820 kr, cheaper outside of summer; sheets-50 kr, breakfast-60-kr, guest computer, Wi-Fi, laundry, no curfew, Klara Norra Kyrkogata 15, tel. 08/226-630, www.citylodge.se, info@citylodge.se).
These options in Norrmalm and Östermalm are in stately, elegant neighborhoods of five- and six-story turn-of-the-century apartment buildings. All are too long of a walk from the station with luggage, but still in easy reach of downtown sights and close to T-bana stops.
$$$ Hotel Wellington, two blocks off Östermalmstorg, is in a less handy but charming part of town. It’s modern and bright, with hardwood floors, 60 rooms, and a friendly welcome. While it may seem pricey, it’s a cut above in comfort, and its great amenities—such as a very generous buffet breakfast, free coffee all day long, and free buffet dinner in the evening—add up to a good value (prices range widely, but in summer generally Db-1,820 kr, smaller Db for 200 kr less, mention this book when you book direct for a 10 percent discount, guest computer, Wi-Fi, free sauna, old-fashioned English bar, garden terrace bar, T-bana: Östermalmstorg, exit to Storgatan and walk past big church to Storgatan 6; tel. 08/667-0910, www.wellington.se, cc.wellington@choice.se).
$$$ Story Hotel Stureplan is a colorful boutique hotel with a creative hipster vibe. Conveniently located near a trendy dining zone between Östermalmstorg and the Nybroplan waterfront, it has 83 rooms above a sprawling, cleverly decorated, affordably priced restaurant. You’ll book online, check yourself in at the kiosk, and receive a text message with your door key code (tight bunk-bed Db-1,700 kr, standard Db-2,000 kr, more for bigger rooms, elevator, free minibar drinks, Wi-Fi, Riddargatan 6, tel. 08/5450-3940, www.storyhotels.com).
$$$ Ibis Styles Stockholm Odenplan rents 76 cookie-cutter rooms on several floors of a late-19th-century apartment building (Db-1,950 kr, about 300 kr cheaper with nonrefundable “advance saver” rate, Wi-Fi, T-bana: Odenplan, Västmannagatan 61, reservation tel. 08/1209-0000, reception tel. 08/1209-0300, www.ibisstyles.se, odenplan@uniquehotels.se).
$ Hostel Bed and Breakfast is a tiny, woody, and easygoing independent hostel renting 36 beds in various dorm-style rooms. Many families stay here (bed in 4-bed room-320 kr, Sb-550 kr, Db-780 kr, sheets-50 kr, kitchen, laundry, Wi-Fi, across the street from T-bana: Rådmansgatan, just off Sveavägen at Rehnsgatan 21, tel. 08/152-838, www.hostelbedandbreakfast.com, info@hostelbedandbreakfast.com).
These options are in the midst of sightseeing, a short bus or taxi ride from the train station. For locations, see the map on here.
$$$ Scandic Gamla Stan offers Old World elegance in the heart of Gamla Stan (a 5-minute walk from Gamla Stan T-bana station). Its 52 small rooms are filled with chandeliers and hardwood floors (Sb-1,400 kr, Db-2,000 kr, 200 kr extra for larger room, elevator, Wi-Fi, Lilla Nygatan 25, tel. 08/723-7250, www.scandichotels.com, gamlastan@scandichotels.com).
$$$ Lady Hamilton Hotel, classic and romantic, is shoehorned into Gamla Stan on a quiet street a block below the cathedral and Royal Palace. The centuries-old building has 34 small but plush and colorfully decorated rooms. Each one is named for a Swedish flower and is filled with antiques (Db-2,200 kr, a few hundred kronor more for a bigger “corner” room with a better view, elevator, guest computer, Wi-Fi, Storkyrkobrinken 5, tel. 08/5064-0100, www.ladyhamiltonhotel.se, info@ladyhamiltonhotel.se).
$$ Urban Hostel Old Town is a sane and modern hostel conveniently located in an untrampled part of Gamla Stan, just a few steps off the harbor. Conscientiously run, with 135 beds in small but tidy modern rooms, it’s not a party hostel—grown-ups will feel comfortable here (bunk in 16-bed dorm-295 kr, S-695 kr, D-900 kr, Db-1,500 kr, T-1,100 kr, Q-1,400 kr, Qb-2,200 kr, breakfast-75 kr, air-con, elevator, Wi-Fi, Nygränd 5, tel. 08/1214-0444, www.urbanhostels.se, info@urbanhostels.se).
$$ The Ånedin Hostel is a floating hotel, moored near the foot of the Royal Palace. Once a cruise boat, the classic liner MS Birger Jarl has 130 cabins, varying from small simple rooms to superior cabins with private baths (Db-600 kr, Qb-900 kr, prices vary by size of room and berth configuration, breakfast-90 kr, Wi-Fi in public spaces, Skeppsbron Tullhus 1, tel. 08/6841-0130, www.anedinhostel.com, info@anedinhostel.com).
This relaxing island—while surrounded by Stockholm—feels a world apart, both in terms of its peacefulness and its somewhat less convenient transportation connections (you’ll rely on bus #65, the shuttle ferry, or your feet—it’s about a 20-minute walk from the train station). For locations, see the map on here.
$ Af Chapman Hostel, a permanently moored 100-year-old schooner, is Europe’s most famous youth hostel and has provided a berth for the backpacking crowd for years. Renovated from keel to stern, the old salt offers 120 bunks in four- to six-bed rooms (bunk-375 kr, D-850 kr, fancier “navigational” or “captain’s” cabins-1,240 kr/1,030 kr, 50 kr less for members, Wi-Fi, see next listing for contact information). Reception and breakfast are at the Skeppsholmen Hostel (next).
$ Skeppsholmen Hostel, just ashore from the Af Chapman, has 160 beds (bunk in 17-bed dorm-265 kr, in 3- to 6-bed room-310 kr, D-690 kr, 50 kr less for members; includes sheets, breakfast-80 kr, laundry service, no lockout, Wi-Fi, tel. 08/463-2266, chapman@stfturist.se).
Södermalm is residential and hip, with Stockholm’s best café and bar scene. You’ll need to take the bus or T-bana to get here from the train station.
$$$ Columbus Hotell—located in a 19th-century building that formerly housed a brewery, a jail, and a hospital—has 69 quiet rooms facing a big courtyard in the heart of Södermalm (Sb-1,600 kr, Db-1,850 kr, Tb-2,100 kr, rates may increase with planned renovation—which may also add an elevator; T-bana: Medborgarplatsen or bus #53 from train station to Tjärhovsplan, then a 5-minute walk to Tjärhovsgatan 11; tel. 08/5031-1200, www.columbushotell.se, info@columbushotell.se).
$$ Hotel Hornsgatan is a tidy, welcoming, nicely decorated B&B upstairs in an old townhouse facing a busy but elegant-feeling boulevard. Four of the 17 small rooms have private baths; the others share five modern bathrooms. Thoughtfully run by Clara and Scott, this is a good value for the location (S-900 kr, Sb-1,300 kr, D-1,100 kr, Db-1,500 kr, elevator, Wi-Fi, reception staffed until 22:00—make arrangements if arriving late, Hornsgatan 66B, T-bana: Mariatorget plus a short walk, 15-minute walk from Slussen/Gamla Stan, tel. 08/658-2901, www.hotelhornsgatan.se, info@hotelhornsgatan.se).
$$ Hotel Hellstens Malmgård is an eclectic collage of 50 rooms crammed with antiques in a circa-1770 mansion. No two rooms are alike, but all have modern baths and quirky touches such as porcelain stoves or four-poster beds. Unwind in its secluded cobblestone courtyard, and you may forget what century you’re in (Db-1,600 kr, elevator, Wi-Fi; T-bana: Zinkensdamm, then a 5-minute walk to Brännkyrkagatan 110; tel. 08/4650-5800, www.hellstensmalmgard.se, hotel@hellstensmalmgard.se).
$$ Långholmen Hotel/Hostel is on Långholmen, a small island off Södermalm that was transformed in the 1980s from Stockholm’s main prison into a lovely park. Rooms are converted cells in the old prison building. You can choose between hostel- and hotel-standard rooms at many different price levels (hostel rooms: dorm bed-260 kr, bunk-bed twin D-630 kr, Db-750 kr, Tb-900 kr, Q-1,040 kr, Qb-1,160 kr, 50 kr less for members, sheets-65 kr, breakfast-98 kr; hotel rooms: Db-2,050 kr, extra bed-250 kr, includes breakfast, about 100 kr cheaper for nonrefundable booking, Wi-Fi, laundry room, kitchen, cafeteria, free parking, on-site swimming; T-bana: Hornstull, walk 10 minutes down and cross small bridge to Långholmen island, follow hotel signs 5 minutes farther; tel. 08/720-8500, www.langholmen.com, hotel@langholmen.com).
To save money, eat your main meal at lunch, when cafés and restaurants have 95-kr daily special plates called dagens rätt (generally Mon-Fri only). Most museums have handy cafés (with lots of turnover and therefore fresh food, 100-kr lunch deals, and often with fine views). Convenience stores serve gas station-style food (and often have seats). As anywhere, department stores and malls are eager to feed shoppers and can be a good, efficient choice. If you want culturally appropriate fast food, stop by a local hot dog stand. Picnics are a great option—especially for dinner, when restaurant prices are highest. There are plenty of park-like, harborside spots to give your cheap picnic some class. I’ve also listed a few splurges—destination restaurants that offer a good sample of modern Swedish cooking.
(See “Gamla Stan Hotels & Restaurants” map, here.)
Most restaurants in Gamla Stan serve the 95-kr weekday lunch special mentioned above, which comes with a main dish, small salad, bread, and tap water. Choose from Swedish, Asian, or Italian cuisine. Several popular places are right on the main square (Stortorget) and near the cathedral. Järntorget, at the far end, is another fun tables-in-the-square scene. Touristy places line Västerlånggatan. You’ll find more romantic spots hiding on side lanes. I’ve listed my favorites below (for locations, see the adjacent map).
Grillska Huset is a cheap and handy cafeteria run by Stockholms Stadsmission, a charitable organization helping the poor. It’s grandly situated right on the old square, with indoor and outdoor seating (tranquil garden up the stairs and out back), fine daily specials, a hearty salad bar, and a staff committed to helping others. You can feed the hungry (that’s you) and help house the homeless at the same time. The 95-kr daily special gets you a hot plate, salad, and coffee, or choose the 90-kr salad bar—both available Mon-Fri 11:00-14:00 (also 100-kr meals, café serves sandwiches and salads daily 10:00-18:00, Stortorget 3, tel. 08/787-8605). They also have a fine little bakery (brödbutik) with lots of tempting cakes and pastries (30-40-kr premade sandwiches, closed Sun).
Kryp In, a small, cozy restaurant (the name means “hide away”) tucked into a peaceful lane, has a stylish hardwood and candlelit interior, great sidewalk seating, and an open kitchen letting you in on Vladimir’s artistry. If you dine well in Stockholm once (or twice), I’d do it here. It’s gourmet without pretense. They serve delicious, modern Swedish cuisine with a 475-kr three-course dinner. In the good-weather months, they serve weekend lunches, with specials starting at 120 kr. Reserve ahead for dinner (200-290-kr plates, daily 17:00-23:00, May-Oct Sat-Sun from 12:30, a block off Stortorget at Prästgatan 17, tel. 08/208-841, www.restaurangkrypin.se).
Vapiano Pasta Pizza Bar, a bright, high-energy, family-oriented eatery, issues you an electronic card as you enter. Circulate to the different stations, ordering up whatever you like as they swipe your card (80-150-kr pastas, pizzas, and salads). Portions are huge and easily splittable. As you leave, your card indicates the bill. Season things by picking a leaf of basil or rosemary from the potted plant on your table. Because tables are often shared, this a great place for solo travelers (daily 11:00-24:00, right next to entrance to Gamla Stan T-bana station, Munkbrogatan 8, tel. 08/222-940). They also have locations on Östermalm (facing Humlegården park at Sturegatan 12) and Norrmalm (between the train station and Kungsholmen at Kungsbron 15)—for these locations, see the map on here.
Hermitage Restaurant is a friendly, faded, hippie-feeling joint that serves a tasty vegetarian buffet in a warm communal dining setting (120 kr gets you a meal, Mon-Fri 11:00-21:00, Sat-Sun 12:00-21:00, Stora Nygatan 11, tel. 08/411-9500).
Picnic Supplies in Gamla Stan: The handy and affordable Coop Nära mini supermarket is strategically located on Järntorget, at the Slussen end of Gamla Stan; the Munkbrohallen supermarket downstairs in the Gamla Stan T-bana station is also very picnic-friendly (both open daily 7:00-22:00).
In Gamla Stan: The harbor embankment of Gamla Stan, facing a gorgeous Stockholm panorama, is lined with swanky quayside eateries and al fresco tables. While prices are high, the setting is memorably romantic—sophisticated, yet waterfront-casual. The listings below are open daily 11:30-24:00 in good weather, when it’s smart to call ahead to reserve a view table.
Mister French is the classiest option, with French and American cuisine and a sleek black-and-white color scheme. Choose between the bar (200-kr simple bar food) or the full restaurant (200-300-kr main courses, cheaper half-portions available). They serve a 150-kr lunch special. While the brasserie interior is classy, I’d eat here only for the outdoor views (Tullhus 2, tel. 08/202-095, www.mrfrench.se).
Loch & Quay, next door, is a simpler “summer pub” with lower prices (160-220-kr pub grub, 120-150-kr lunches available until 14:30, Tullhus 2, tel. 08/225-755).
In Kungsholmen, Behind City Hall: On a balmy summer’s eve, Mälarpaviljongen is a dreamy spot with hundreds of locals enjoying the perfect lakefront scene, as twinkling glasses of rosé shine like convivial lanterns. From City Hall, walk 15 minutes along Lake Mälaren (a treat in itself) and you’ll find a hundred casual outdoor tables on a floating restaurant and among the trees on shore. Line up at the cafeteria to order a drink, snack, or complete meal. When it’s cool, they have heaters and blankets. The walk along the lake back into town caps the experience beautifully (60-kr beer, 130-kr cocktails, 110-kr lunch plates, 180-240-kr evening meals, open in good weather April-Sept daily 11:00-late, easy lakeside walk or T-bana to Fridhemsplan plus a 5-minute walk to Nörr Mälarstrand 63, no reservations, tel. 08/650-8701).
In Djurgården: Sjöcaféet, beautifully situated and greedily soaking up the afternoon sun, fills a woody terrace stretching along the harbor just over the Djurgårdsbron bridge. In summer, this is a fine place for a meal or just a drink before or after your Skansen or Vasa visit. They have affordable lunch plates (105 kr, Mon-Fri 11:00-13:00 only); after 14:00, you’ll pay 130-180 kr per plate (also 12-kr pizzas, order at the bar, daily 8:00-20:00, often later in summer, closed off-season, tel. 08/661-4488). For the location, see the map on here.
Oaxen Slip Bistro, a trendy harborfront place 200 yards below the main Skansen gate, serves creative Nordic cuisine with sturdy local ingredients in a sleek interior or on its delightfully woody terrace. Overlooking a canal in what feels like an old shipyard, and filled with in-the-know locals, this place is a real treat. Reservations are smart (200-kr plates, game and seafood, daily 12:00-14:00 & 17:00-21:30, Beckholmsvägen 26, tel. 08/5515-3105, www.oaxen.com). For location, see the map on here.
Dinner Cruises on Lake Mälaren: The big sightseeing company Strömma sells a variety of lunch and dinner cruises that allow you to enjoy the delightful waterways of Stockholm and the archipelago while you eat. Options include shorter dinner cruises to Drottningholm Palace (2.5 hours round-trip), longer ones to the outer archipelago (up to 5 hours), and smörgåsbord cruises around Lake Mälaren. For prices, details, and booking, check www.stromma.se; see also their other options, including a shrimp cruise and a jazz cruise.
(See “Stockholm Hotels & Restaurants” map, here.)
This quickly gentrifying, working-class district, just south of Gamla Stan (steeply uphill from Slussen), has some of Stockholm’s most enticing food options—especially for beer lovers. It’s also a bit less swanky, and therefore more affordable, than many of the city’s more touristy neighborhoods. Combine dinner here with a stroll through a side of Stockholm many visitors miss. For more on Södermalm, see here.
The neighborhood’s liveliest street is the artery called Götgatan, which leads from Slussen (where Södermalm meets Gamla Stan) steeply up into the heart of Södermalm. Here, mixed between the boutiques, you’ll find cafés tempting you to join the Swedish coffee break called fika, plus plenty of other eateries. Even if you don’t dine in Södermalm, it’s worth a stroll here just for the window-shopping fun.
At the top of the street, you’ll pop out into the big square called Medborgarplatsen. This neighborhood hang-out is a great scene, with almost no tourists and lots of options—especially for Swedish fast food. (My favorite, Melanders Fisk, is listed next.) Outdoor restaurant and café tables fill the square, which is fronted by a big food hall. (There’s also a T-bana stop here for an easy return home after dinner.) The recommended Kvarnen beer hall (see later) is just around the corner to the left.
Melanders Fisk, facing the square, has only outside tables (and is therefore an option only in warm weather). You order at the bar and join locals in this classic scene. Skagenröra, shrimp with mayo on toast or filling a baked potato, is the signature dish—and dear to the Swedish heart (115 kr; also 90-kr lunch plates daily, 130-150-kr fish plates served daily until 21:00, after 21:00 it’s only skagenröra, Medborgarplatsen 3, tel. 08/644-4040).
A bit farther south, these cross-streets make another good spot to browse among fun and enticing restaurants, particularly for ethnic cuisine.
Nytorget Urban Deli is the epitome of Södermalm’s trendy-hipster vibe and an amazing scene. It’s half fancy artisanal delicatessen—with all manner of ingredients—and half white-subway-tile-trendy eatery, with indoor and outdoor tables filled with Stockholm yuppies eating well. If it’s busy—as it often is—they’ll scrawl your name at the bottom of the long butcher-paper waiting list (no reservations). If it’s full, you can grab a place at the bar and eat there (international and Swedish modern dishes, 100-190-kr light meals, 190-225-kr bigger meals, daily 8:00-23:00, at the far end of Skånegatan at Nytorget 4, tel. 08/5990-9180).
Nytorget Urban Deli Picnic: The upscale grocery store attached to the deli seems designed for picnickers, with lots of creative boxed meals and salads to go (same address and hours—see listing above). The park across the street has lots of benches and picnic tables.
Kohphangan, with an almost laughably over-the-top island atmosphere that belies its surprisingly good Thai food, has been a hit for 20 years. (Thailand is to Swedes what Mexico is to Americans—the sunny “south of the border” playground.) The ambience? Mix a shipwreck, Bob Marley, and a Christmas tree and you’ve got it (160-220-kr dishes, daily 12:00-24:00, Skånegatan 57, tel. 08/642-5040).
Gossip is a mellow, unpretentious hole-in-the-wall serving Bangladeshi street food (120-160-kr dishes, Mon-Fri 11:00-23:00, Sat-Sun 13:00-23:00, Skånegatan 71, tel. 08/640-6901).
(See “Stockholm Hotels & Restaurants” map, here.)
Södermalm cultivates the most interesting beer scene in this beer-crazy city.
Beer Garden with a View: Mosebacke, perched high above town, is a gravelly beer garden with a grand harbor view. The beer garden (open only on warm summer evenings) prides itself on its beer rather than its basic grub (read: bar snacks). It’s a good place to mix with a relaxed young crowd. As each of the beer kiosks has its own specialties, survey all of them before making your choice (a block inland from the top of the Katarina viewing platform, look for the triumphal arch at Mosebacke Torg 3, tel. 08/556-09890, www.sodrateatern.com). The adjacent restaurant serves fine 250-kr plates.
Classic Swedish Beer Halls: Two different but equally traditional Södermalm beer halls serve well-executed, hearty Swedish grub in big, high-ceilinged, orange-tiled spaces with rustic wooden tables.
Kvarnen (“The Mill”) is a reliable choice with a 1908 ambience. As it’s the home bar for the supporters of a football club, it can be rough. Pick a classic Swedish dish from their fun and easy menu (100-130-kr starters, 140-200-kr main courses, daily 17:00-24:00, Tjärhovsgatan 4, tel. 08/643-0380).
Pelikan, an old-school beer hall, is less sloppy and has nicer food. It’s a bit deeper into Södermalm (120-230-kr starters, 190-270-kr main courses, Mon-Thu 16:00-23:00, Fri-Sun 13:00-23:00, Blekingegatan 40, tel. 08/5560-9290).
Trendier “Craft Beer” Pub: Akkurat has a staggering variety of microbrews—both Swedish and international (on tap and bottled)—as well as whisky. It’s great if you wish you were in England with a bunch of Swedes (short menu of 190-240-kr pub grub, Mon-Fri 11:00-24:00, Sat 15:00-24:00, Sun 18:00-24:00, Hornsgatan 18, tel. 08/644-0015).
(See “Stockholm Hotels & Restaurants” map, here.)
Royal Smörgåsbord: To stuff yourself with all the traditional Swedish specialties (a dozen kinds of herring, salmon, reindeer, meatballs, lingonberries, and shrimp, followed by a fine table of cheeses and desserts) with a super harbor view, consider splurging at the Grand Hotel’s dressy Veranda Restaurant. While very touristy, this is considered the finest smörgåsbord in town. The Grand Hotel, where royal guests and Nobel Prize winners stay, faces the harbor across from the palace. Pick up their English flier for a good explanation of the proper way to enjoy this grand buffet (and read about smörgåsbords on here). Reservations are often necessary (485 kr in evening, 445 kr for lunch, drinks extra, open nightly 18:00-22:00, also open for lunch Sat-Sun 13:00-16:00 year-round and Mon-Fri 12:00-15:00 in May-Sept, no shorts after 18:00, Södra Blasieholmshamnen 8, tel. 08/679-3586, www.grandhotel.se)
Restaurang B.A.R. has a fun energy, with diners surveying the meat and fish at the ice-filled counter, talking things over with the chef, and then choosing a slab. Prices are on the board, and everything’s grilled (250-300-kr meals, open daily except closed Sun-Mon in July, behind the Grand Hotel at Blasieholmsgatan 4, tel. 08/611-5335).
(See “Stockholm Hotels & Restaurants” map, here.)
The Operakällaren, one of Stockholm’s most exclusive restaurants, runs a little “hip pocket” restaurant called Bakfickan on the side, specializing in traditional Swedish quality cooking at reasonable prices. It’s ideal for someone eating out alone, or for anyone wanting an early dinner. Choose from two different daily specials or pay 180-280 kr for main dishes from their regular menu (160-180-kr specials served daily from 12:00 until they run out—which can be early or as late as 20:00, no specials in July). Sit inside—at tiny private side tables or at the big counter with the locals—or, in good weather, grab a table on the sidewalk, facing a cheery red church (Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00, closed Sun, on the inland side of Royal Opera House, tel. 08/676-5809).
(See “Stockholm Hotels & Restaurants” map, here.)
Hötorget (“Hay Market”), a vibrant outdoor produce market just two blocks from Sergels Torg, is a fun place to picnic-shop. The outdoor market closes at 18:00, and many merchants put their unsold produce on the push list (earlier closing and more desperate merchants on Sat).
Hötorgshallen, next to Hötorget (in the basement under the modern cinema complex), is a colorful indoor food market with an old-fashioned bustle, plenty of exotic and ethnic edibles, and—in the tradition of food markets all over Europe—some great little eateries (Mon-Fri 10:00-18:00, Sat 10:00-15:00, closed Sun). The best is Kajsas Fisk, hiding behind the fish stalls. They serve delicious fish soup to little Olivers who can hardly believe they’re getting...more. For 95 kr, you get a big bowl of hearty soup, a simple salad, bread and crackers—plus one soup refill. Their stekt strömming (traditional fried herring and potato dish) is a favorite (90-150-kr daily fish specials, Mon-Fri 11:00-18:00, Sat 11:00-16:00, closed Sun, Hötorgshallen 3, tel. 08/207-262). There’s a great kebab and falafel place a few stalls away.
Kungshallen, an 800-seat indoor food court across the square from Hötorget, has more than a dozen eateries. The main floor is a bit more upscale, with sit-down places and higher prices, while the basement is a shopping-mall-style array of fast-food counters, including Chinese, sushi, pizza, Greek, and Mexican. This is a handy place to comparison-shop for a meal at lower prices (Mon-Fri 9:00-22:00, Sat-Sun 12:00-22:00).
(See “Stockholm Hotels & Restaurants” map, here.)
The pleasant, pedestrianized shopping street called Drottninggatan, which runs from the train station area up into Stockholm’s suburbs, is a fine place to find a forgettable meal but with memorable people-watching. Several interchangeable eateries with sidewalk tables line the street (and don’t miss the delightful, leafy park courtyard of Centralbadet, at #88, with several outdoor cafés). None of them merits a special detour, except the next listing.
Rolfs Kök, a vibrant neighborhood favorite, is worth the pleasant five-minute stroll up from the end of Drottninggatan. The long bar up front fades into an open kitchen hemmed in with happy diners at counters, and tight tables fill the rest of the space before spilling out onto the sidewalk. Trendy, casual, and inviting, this bistro features international fare with a focus on Swedish classics and a good wine list. Reservations are smart (100-160-kr starters, 220-300-kr main courses, Mon-Fri 11:30-24:00, Sat-Sun 17:00-24:00, closed in July and sometimes early Aug—confirm it’s open before making the trip, Tegnérgatan 41, tel. 08/101-696, www.rolfskok.se).
(See “Stockholm Hotels & Restaurants” map, here.)
Kulturhuset Rooftop Eateries: Two places (one cheap and the other trendy) are handy for simple meals with great city views. Cafeteria Panorama, offering cheap eats and a salad bar, has both inside and outside seating with jaw-dropping vistas (90-kr lunch specials with salad bar, Sat-Mon 11:00-18:00, Tue-Fri 11:00-20:00). The more stylish Mat and Bar café has a pleasant garden setting with pricier food (daily until 21:00).
The many modern shopping malls and department stores around Sergels Torg all have appealing, if pricey, eateries catering to the needs of hungry local shoppers. Åhléns department store has a Hemköp supermarket in the basement (daily until 21:00) and two restaurants upstairs with 80-110-kr daily lunch specials (Mon-Fri 11:00-19:30, Sat 11:00-18:30, Sun 11:00-17:30).
(See “Stockholm Hotels & Restaurants” map, here.)
Saluhall, on Östermalmstorg (near recommended Hotel Wellington), is a great old-time indoor market with top-quality artisanal producers and a variety of sit-down and takeout eateries. While it’s nowhere near “cheap,” it’s one of the most pleasant market halls I’ve seen, oozing with upscale yet traditional Swedish class. Inside you’ll find Middle Eastern fare, sushi, classic Scandinavian open-face sandwiches, seafood salads, healthy wraps, cheese counters, designer chocolates, gourmet coffee stands, and a pair of classic old sit-down eateries (Elmqvist and Tystamare). This is your chance to pull up a stool at a lunch counter next to well-heeled Swedish yuppies (Mon-Thu 9:30-18:00, Fri until 19:00, Sat until 16:00, closed Sun).
Örtagården, upstairs from the Saluhall, is primarily a vegetarian restaurant and serves a 145-kr buffet weekdays until 17:00 and a larger 155-kr buffet evenings and weekends (Mon-Fri 11:00-22:00, Sat-Sun 11:00-21:00, entrance on side of market building at Nybrogatan 31, tel. 08/662-1728).
Restaurang Volt is a destination restaurant for foodies looking to splurge on “New Nordic” cooking: fresh, locally sourced ingredients fused into bold new recipes with fundamentally Swedish flavors. Owners Fredrik Johnsson and Peter Andersson fill their minimalist black dining room with just 31 seats, so reservations are essential (550 kr/four courses, 700 kr/six courses, no à la carte, Tue-Sat 18:00-24:00, closed Sun-Mon, Kommendörsgatan 16, tel. 08/662-3400, www.restaurangvolt.se).
Riche, a Parisian-style brasserie just a few steps off Nybroplan at Östermalm’s waterfront, is a high-energy environment with a youthful sophistication. They serve up pricey but elegantly executed Swedish and international dishes in their winter garden, bright dining room, and white-tile-and-wine-glass-chandeliered bar (140-230-kr starters, 200-340-kr main courses, 175-kr plat du jour, Mon-Fri 7:30-24:00, Sat-Sun 12:00-24:00, Birger Jarlsgatan 4, tel. 08/5450-3560).
Unless you have a rail pass, long-distance buses are cheaper than trains, such as from Stockholm to Oslo or Kalmar. Buses usually take longer, but have more predictable pricing, shorter ticket lines, and student discounts. Swebus is the largest operator (tel. 0771-21-8218, www.swebus.se); Nettbuss also has lots of routes (www.nettbuss.se). Some bus companies offer discounts with advance purchase.
From Stockholm by Bus to: Copenhagen (about 3/day with change in Malmö, 9.5 hours, longer for overnight trips), Oslo (3/day, 8 hours), Kalmar (4/day, fewer on weekends, 6 hours).
The easiest and cheapest way to book train tickets is online at www.sj.se. Simply select your journey and pay for it with a credit card. When you arrive at the train station, print out your tickets at a self-service ticket kiosk (bring your purchase confirmation code). You can also buy tickets at a ticket window in a train station, but this comes with long lines and a 5 percent surcharge. For timetables and prices, check online, call 0771/757-575, or use one of the self-service ticket kiosks.
As with airline tickets and hotel rooms, Swedish train ticket prices vary with demand. The cheapest are advance-purchase, nonchangeable, and nonrefundable.
For rail-pass holders, seat reservations are required on express (such as the “SJ high-speed” class) and overnight trains, and they’re recommended on some longer routes (to Oslo, for example). Second-class seat reservations to Copenhagen cost 65 kr (150 kr in first class). If you have a rail pass, make your seat reservation at a ticket window in a train station, by phone (at the number above), or online (under “Buy Tickets,” choose “pass 2cl” from the “customer card” menu).
From Stockholm by Train to: Uppsala (4/hour, 40 minutes; also possible on slower suburban pendeltåg—2/hour, 55 minutes, covered by local transit pass plus small supplement), Växjö (every 2 hours, 3.5 hours, change in Alvesta, reservations required), Kalmar (hourly, 4.5-5 hours, transfer in Alvesta, reservations required), Copenhagen (almost hourly, 5-6 hours on high-speed train, some with a transfer at Lund or Hässleholm, reservations required; overnight train requires a change in Malmö or Lund; all trains stop at Copenhagen airport before terminating at the central train station), Oslo (2/day direct Intercity trains, 6 hours; 2/day with change, 6-7.5 hours).
Ferry boat companies run shuttle buses from the train station to coincide with each departure; check for details when you buy your ticket. When comparing prices between boats and planes, remember that the boat fare includes a night’s lodging.
From Stockholm to: Helsinki and Tallinn (daily/nightly boats, 16 hours, see Helsinki and Tallinn chapters), Turku (daily/nightly boats, 11 hours). St. Peter Line connects Stockholm to St. Petersburg, but the trip takes two nights—you’ll sail the first night to Tallinn, then a second night to St. Petersburg; returning, you’ll sail the first night to Helsinki, and the second night to Stockholm (www.stpeterline.com). Note: To visit Russia, American and Canadian citizens need a visa (arrange weeks in advance); for details on the visa requirement and the company, see here in the Helsinki chapter.
For many more details on Stockholm’s ports, and other cruise destinations, pick up my Rick Steves Northern European Cruise Ports guidebook.
Stockholm has two cruise ports: the more central Stadsgården port, used mainly by ships that are just passing through, is in Södermalm; the Frihamnen port, used primarily by ships that are beginning or ending a cruise, is three miles northeast of the city center.
Getting Downtown: Most cruise lines offer a convenient shuttle bus (about 100 kr round-trip) that drops you in downtown Stockholm near the Opera House. From there it’s an easy walk or public bus/tram ride to various points of interest. It’s not a bad value in this expensive city, where a single one-way ticket on public transit costs over $5. Taxis from each port are also available (depending on your destination, figure 115-190 kr from Stadsgården and 150-235 kr from Frihamnen). Other options, including a hop-on, hop-off bus or boat from Stadsgården or the public bus from Frihamnen, are explained next.
Port Details: TI kiosks (with bus tickets, city guides, and maps) open at both ports when ships arrive.
Stadsgården is a long embankment, with cruises arriving at areas that flank the busy Viking Line Terminal (used by boats to Helsinki). The nearest transportation hub (with bus and T-bana stops) is Slussen, which sits beneath the bridge connecting the Old Town/Gamla Stan and the Södermalm neighborhood. Berth 160 is an easy 10-minute walk to Slussen; berths 165/167 are farther out but still walkable (about 25 minutes to Slussen).
From Stadsgården, a good option is the handy hop-on, hop-off harbor boat tour, which departs from right next to the cruise dock and connects several worthwhile downtown areas for a reasonable price (120-160 kr for 24 hours, tickets often discounted from cruise port; for more details, see here). A taxi stand is next to the TI kiosk just outside the port gate. Near the taxi stand is the departure point for hop-on, hop-off tour buses (for details, see here). The public bus from Stadsgården is not a convenient option.
Frihamnen is a sprawling, drab industrial port zone used by cruise liners as well as overnight Baltic boats. Cruises typically use one of three berths—634, 638, or 650. Berth 638 is the main dock and has the only dedicated terminal building (with a TI desk and gift shops). Along the main harborfront road you’ll find a TI kiosk; hop-on, hop-off bus tours (pricey but convenient; for details see here); and a public bus stop—a good option. Bus #76 zips you to several major sights, including Djurgårdsbron, Nybroplan, Kungsträdgården, Räntmästartrappan, and Slussen (4-7/hour Mon-Fri, 2-3/hour Sat, none on Sun). On weekends, you may be better off taking the less convenient but more frequent bus #1, which cuts across the top of Östermalm and Norrmalm to the train station (runs daily). You can’t buy bus tickets on board—get one at the TI inside the terminal, at the booth near the bus stop, or from the ticket machine at the bus stop.
For information on arriving at Stockholm’s airports, see “Arrival in Stockholm,” earlier in this chapter.
To Helsinki and Tallinn: Many low-fare airlines are offering flights across the Baltic. For flights from Stockholm to Helsinki, check www.flysas.com/fi; to Tallinn, also visit www.norwegian.com and www.estonian-air.com.
Stockholm to Oslo: It’s an eight-hour drive from Stockholm to Oslo. Årjäng, just before the Norwegian border, is a good place for a rest stop. At the border, change money at the little TI kiosk (on right side). Pick up the Oslo map and What’s On in Oslo, and consider buying your Oslo Card here.