USING YOUR SMARTPHONE IN EUROPE
LANDLINE TELEPHONES AND INTERNET CAFÉS
This chapter covers the practical skills of European travel: how to get tourist information, pay for purchases, sightsee efficiently, find good-value accommodations, eat affordably but well, use technology wisely, and get between destinations smoothly. To study ahead and round out your knowledge, check out “Resources” for a summary of recommended books and films.
The Scandinavian Tourist Board’s office in the US is a wealth of information on Norway, Denmark, Sweden, and Finland. Before your trip, download brochures and request any specifics you want (such as regional and city maps and festival schedules). Call 212/885-9700 or visit www.goscandinavia.com (info@goscandinavia.com). Estonia doesn’t have a tourist office in the US, but you can check their website (www.visitestonia.com, tourism@eas.ee).
In Scandinavia, your best first stop in every town is generally the tourist information office (abbreviated TI in this book). Throughout Scandinavia, you’ll find TIs are usually well-organized and always have an English-speaking staff. Most TIs are run by the government, which means their information isn’t colored by a drive for profit. (The big exception is the commercially operated Copenhagen TI, which dubs itself “Wonderful Copenhagen.”)
TIs are good places to get a city map and information on public transit (including bus and train schedules), walking tours, special events, and nightlife. Many TIs have information on the entire country or at least the region, so try to pick up maps for destinations you’ll be visiting later in your trip. If you’re arriving in town after the TI closes, call ahead or pick up a map in a neighboring town.
Most big cities publish a This Week in... or What’s On... guide (to Oslo, Bergen, Stockholm, Helsinki, and Tallinn, but not Copenhagen). These are free, found all over town or online, and packed with all the details about each city (24-hour pharmacy, embassies, tram/bus fares, restaurants, sights with hours/admissions/phone numbers), plus a useful calendar of events and a map of the town center.
While TIs are eager to book you a room, they’re a good deal only if you’re in search of summer and weekend deals on business hotels. A TI can help you find small pensions and private homes, but you’ll save yourself and your host money by going direct with the listings in this book.
Emergency and Medical Help: In all the countries in this book, dial 112 for medical or other emergencies. If you get sick, go to a pharmacist for advice. Or ask at your hotel for help—they’ll know the nearest medical and emergency services.
For police, dial 112 in Denmark, Norway, Finland, and Sweden—but in Estonia, dial 110.
Theft or Loss: To replace a passport, you’ll need to go in person to an embassy (see here). If your credit and debit cards disappear, cancel and replace them (see “Damage Control for Lost Cards” on here). File a police report, either on the spot or within a day or two; you’ll need it to submit an insurance claim for lost or stolen rail passes or travel gear, and it can help with replacing your passport or credit and debit cards. For more information, see www.ricksteves.com/help. Precautionary measures can minimize the effects of loss—back up photos and other files frequently.
Time Zones: Norway, Sweden, and Denmark, which share the same time zone as continental Europe, are generally six/nine hours ahead of the East/West Coasts of the US. Finland and Estonia are one hour ahead of Norway, Sweden, and Denmark. The exceptions are the beginning and end of Daylight Saving Time: Europe “springs forward” the last Sunday in March (two weeks after most of North America) and “falls back” the last Sunday in October (one week before North America). For a handy online time converter, try www.timeanddate.com/worldclock.
Business Hours: Banks are generally open weekdays from 9:00 to 15:00 or 16:00, with retail shops open an hour or two later. Saturdays are virtually weekdays, with earlier closing hours and no rush hour. Sundays have the same pros and cons as they do for travelers in the US: Sightseeing attractions are generally open, while shops and banks are closed, public transportation options are fewer (for example, no bus service to or from the smaller towns), and there’s no rush hour. Rowdy evenings are rare on Sundays. Many museums in Scandinavia are closed on Mondays.
Watt’s Up? Europe’s electrical system is 220 volts, instead of North America’s 110 volts. Most newer electronics (such as laptops, battery chargers, and hair dryers) convert automatically, so you won’t need a converter, but you will need an adapter plug with two round prongs, sold inexpensively at travel stores in the US. Avoid bringing older appliances that don’t automatically convert voltage; instead, buy a cheap replacement in Europe.
Discounts: While discounts are generally not listed in this book, note that liberal Scandinavia is Europe’s most generous corner when it comes to youths (under 18), students (with International Student Identity Cards, www.isic.org), seniors, and families. Children usually sleep and sightsee for half-price or free.
Online Translation Tip: You can use Google’s Chrome browser (available free at www.google.com/chrome) to instantly translate websites. With one click, the page appears in (very rough) English translation. You can also paste the URL of the site into the translation window at www.google.com/translate.
This section offers advice on how to pay for purchases on your trip (including getting cash from ATMs and paying with plastic), dealing with lost or stolen cards, VAT (sales tax) refunds, and tipping.
Bring both a credit card and a debit card. You’ll use the debit card at cash machines (ATMs) to withdraw local cash for most purchases, and the credit card to pay for larger items. Some travelers carry a third card, in case one gets demagnetized or eaten by a temperamental machine.
For an emergency stash, bring several hundred dollars in hard cash in $20 bills.
Because Scandinavian countries have different currencies, you’ll likely wind up with leftover cash when you’re leaving a country. Coins can’t be exchanged once you leave the country, so try to spend them before you cross the border. But bills are easy to convert to the “new” country’s currency. When changing cash, use exchange bureaus rather than banks. The Forex desks (easy to find at major train stations and airports) are considered reliable and fair.
Cash is just as desirable in Europe as it is at home. Small businesses (B&Bs, mom-and-pop cafés, shops, etc.) prefer that you pay your bills with cash. Some vendors will charge you extra for using a credit card, and some won’t take credit cards at all. Cash is the best—and sometimes only—way to pay for cheap food, bus fare, taxis, and local guides.
Throughout Europe, ATMs are the standard way for travelers to get cash. To withdraw money from an ATM, you’ll need a debit card (ideally with a Visa or MasterCard logo for maximum usability), plus a PIN code. Know your PIN code in numbers; there are only numbers—no letters—on European keypads. For increased security, shield the keypad when entering your PIN code, and don’t use an ATM if anything on the front of the machine looks loose or damaged (a sign that someone may have attached a “skimming” device to capture account information). Try to withdraw large sums of money to reduce the number of per-transaction bank fees you’ll pay.
When possible, use ATMs located outside banks—a thief is less likely to target a cash machine near surveillance cameras, and if your card is munched by a machine, you can go inside for help. Stay away from “independent” ATMs such as Travelex, Euronet, Moneybox, Cardpoint, and Cashzone, which charge huge commissions, have terrible exchange rates, and may try to trick users with “dynamic currency conversion” (described at the end of “Credit and Debit Cards,” next).
Although you can use a credit card for an ATM transaction, it only makes sense in an emergency, because it’s considered a cash advance (borrowed at a high interest rate) rather than a withdrawal.
While traveling, if you want to monitor your accounts online to detect any unauthorized transactions, be sure to use a secure connection (see here).
Pickpockets target tourists. To safeguard your cash, wear a money belt—a pouch with a strap that you buckle around your waist like a belt and tuck under your clothes. Keep your cash, credit cards, and passport secure in your money belt, and carry only a day’s spending money in your front pocket.
For purchases, Visa and MasterCard are more commonly accepted than American Express. Just like at home, credit or debit cards work easily at larger hotels, restaurants, and shops. I typically use my debit card to withdraw cash to pay for most purchases. I use my credit card only in a few specific situations: to book hotel reservations by phone, to buy advance tickets for events or sights, to cover major expenses (such as car rentals, plane tickets, and long hotel stays), and to pay for things near the end of my trip (to avoid another visit to the ATM). While you could use a debit card to make most large purchases, using a credit card offers a greater degree of fraud protection (because debit cards draw funds directly from your account).
Ask Your Credit- or Debit-Card Company: Before your trip, contact the company that issued your debit or credit cards.
• Confirm that your card will work overseas, and alert them that you’ll be using it in Europe; otherwise, they may deny transactions if they perceive unusual spending patterns.
• Ask for the specifics on transaction fees. When you use your credit or debit card—either for purchases or ATM withdrawals—you’ll often be charged additional “international transaction” fees of up to 3 percent (1 percent is normal) plus $5 per transaction. If your card’s fees seem too high, consider getting a different card just for your trip: Capital One (www.capitalone.com) and most credit unions have low-to-no international fees.
• If you plan to withdraw cash from ATMs, confirm your daily withdrawal limit, and if necessary, ask your bank to adjust it. Some travelers prefer a high limit that allows them to take out more cash at each ATM stop (saving on bank fees), while others prefer to set a lower limit in case their card is stolen. Note that foreign banks also set maximum withdrawal amounts for their ATMs. Also, remember that you’re withdrawing local currency, not dollars—so, for example, in Finland and Estonia, if your daily limit is $300, withdraw just €200. Many frustrated travelers walk away from ATMs thinking their cards have been rejected, when actually they were asking for more cash in the local currency than their daily limit allowed.
• Get your bank’s emergency phone number in the US (but not its 800 number, which isn’t accessible from overseas) to call collect if you have a problem.
• Ask for your credit card’s PIN in case you need to make an emergency cash withdrawal or encounter Europe’s “chip-and-PIN” system; the bank won’t tell you your PIN over the phone, so allow time for it to be mailed to you.
Chip and PIN: Europeans are increasingly using chip-and-PIN cards, which are embedded with an electronic security chip (in addition to the magnetic stripe found on American-style cards). To make a purchase with a chip-and-PIN card, the cardholder inserts the card into a slot in the payment machine, then enters a PIN (like using a debit card in the US) while the card stays in the slot. The chip inside the card authorizes the transaction; the cardholder doesn’t sign a receipt. Your American-style card might not work at payment machines using this system, such as those at train and subway stations, toll roads, parking garages, luggage lockers, bike-rental kiosks, and self-serve gas pumps. If you have problems using your American card in a chip-and-PIN machine, here are some suggestions: For either a debit card or a credit card, try entering that card’s PIN when prompted. (Note that your credit-card PIN may not be the same as your debit-card PIN; you’ll need to ask your bank for your credit-card PIN.) If your cards still don’t work, look for a machine that takes cash, seek out a clerk who might be able to process the transaction manually, or ask a local if you can pay them cash to run the transaction on their card.
And don’t panic. Most travelers who carry only magnetic-stripe cards don’t run into problems. Still, it pays to carry plenty of cash; remember, you can always use an ATM with your magnetic-stripe debit card.
If you’re still concerned, you can apply for a chip card in the US (though I think it’s overkill). One option is the no-annual-fee GlobeTrek Visa, offered by Andrews Federal Credit Union in Maryland (open to all US residents; see www.andrewsfcu.org). In the future, chip cards should become standard issue in the US: Visa and MasterCard have asked US banks and merchants to use chip-based cards by late 2015.
Dynamic Currency Conversion: If merchants offer to convert your purchase price into dollars (called dynamic currency conversion, or DCC), refuse this “service.” You’ll pay even more in fees for the expensive convenience of seeing your charge in dollars. “Independent” ATMs (such as Travelex and Moneybox) may try to confuse customers by presenting DCC in misleading terms. If an ATM offers to “lock in” or “guarantee” your conversion rate, choose “proceed without conversion.” Other prompts might state, “You can be charged in dollars: Press YES for dollars, NO for kroner.” Always choose the local currency in these situations.
If you lose your credit, debit, or ATM card, you can stop people from using it by reporting the loss immediately to the respective global customer-assistance centers. Call these 24-hour US numbers collect: Visa (tel. 303/967-1096), MasterCard (tel. 636/722-7111), and American Express (tel. 336/393-1111). European toll-free numbers (listed by country) can be found at the websites for Visa (usa.visa.com) and Mastercard (www.mastercard.us).
Providing the following information will allow for a quicker cancellation of your missing card: full card number, whether you are the primary or secondary cardholder, the cardholder’s name exactly as printed on the card, billing address, home phone number, circumstances of the loss or theft, and identification verification (your birth date, your mother’s maiden name, or your Social Security number—memorize this, don’t carry a copy). If you are the secondary cardholder, you’ll also need to provide the primary cardholder’s identification-verification details. You can generally receive a temporary card within two or three business days in Europe (see www.ricksteves.com/help for more).
If you report your loss within two days, you typically won’t be responsible for any unauthorized transactions on your account, although many banks charge a liability fee of $50.
Tipping in Europe isn’t as automatic and generous as it is in the US—and Scandinavia is one part of Europe where tips are less common. For special service, tips are appreciated, but not expected. As in the US, the proper amount depends on your resources, tipping philosophy, and the circumstances, but some general guidelines apply.
Restaurants: Tipping is an issue only at restaurants that have table service. If you order your food at a counter, don’t tip.
Throughout Scandinavia, a service charge is typically included in your bill, and you aren’t required to leave an additional tip. But don’t assume that the service charge goes to your server—often it goes right to the restaurant owner. In fancier restaurants or whenever you enjoy great service, round up the bill (about 5-10 percent of the total check). Rounding up for good service is especially common in Estonia (though never more than 10 percent).
Taxis: To tip the cabbie, round up. For a typical ride, round up your fare a bit (for instance, if the fare is 85 kr, pay 90 kr). If the cabbie hauls your bags and zips you to the airport to help you catch your flight, you might want to toss in a little more. But if you feel like you’re being driven in circles or otherwise ripped off, skip the tip.
Special Services: In general, if someone in the service industry does a super job for you, a small tip (the equivalent of a euro or two) is appropriate...but not required. If you’re not sure whether (or how much) to tip for a service, ask your hotelier or the TI.
Wrapped into the purchase price of your Scandinavian souvenirs is a Value-Added Tax (VAT) of 20-25 percent (among the highest rates in Europe). You’re entitled to get most of that tax back if you purchase goods worth more than a certain amount (300 kr in Denmark, 315 kr in Norway, 200 kr in Sweden, €40 in Finland, and €38 in Estonia) at a store that participates in the VAT refund scheme (look for signs in store windows—VAT is called MVA in Norway and MOMS in Denmark, Finland, and Sweden). Typically, you must ring up the minimum at a single retailer—you can’t add up your purchases from various shops to reach the required amount.
Getting your refund is usually straightforward and, if you buy a substantial amount of souvenirs, well worth the hassle. If you’re lucky, the merchant will subtract the tax when you make your purchase. (This is more likely to occur if the store ships the goods to your home.) Otherwise, you’ll need to:
Get the paperwork. Have the merchant completely fill out the necessary refund document. You’ll have to present your passport. Get the paperwork done before you leave the store to ensure you’ll have everything you need (including your original sales receipt).
Get your stamp at the border or airport. If you’ve made purchases in Denmark, Sweden, Finland, and/or Estonia, process your VAT document at your last stop in the European Union (such as at the airport) with the customs agent who deals with VAT refunds. If you’ve shopped hard in Norway (a non-EU country), get your document(s) stamped at the border or at your point of departure from Norway.
Arrive an additional hour before you need to check in for your flight to allow time to find the local customs office—and to stand in line. It’s best to keep your purchases in your carry-on. If they’re too large or dangerous to carry on (such as knives), pack them in your checked bags and alert the check-in agent. You’ll be sent (with your tagged bag) to a customs desk outside security, which will examine your bag, stamp your paperwork, and put your bag on the belt. You’re not supposed to use your purchased goods before you leave. If you show up at customs wearing your new Norwegian sweater, officials might look the other way—or deny you a refund.
Collect your refund. You’ll need to return your stamped document to the retailer or its representative. Many merchants work with services, such as Global Blue or Premier Tax Free, that have offices at major airports, ports, or border crossings (either before or after security, probably strategically located near a duty-free shop). These services, which extract a 4 percent fee, can usually refund your money immediately in cash, or credit your card (within two billing cycles). If the retailer handles VAT refunds directly, it’s up to you to contact the merchant for your refund. You can mail the documents from home, or more quickly, from your point of departure (using an envelope you’ve prepared in advance or one that’s been provided by the merchant). You’ll then have to wait—it can take months.
You are allowed to take home $800 worth of items per person duty-free, once every 30 days. You can take home many processed and packaged foods: vacuum-packed cheeses, dried herbs, jams, baked goods, candy, chocolate, oil, vinegar, mustard, and honey. Fresh fruits and vegetables and most meats are not allowed, with exceptions for some canned items.
As for alcohol, you can bring in one liter duty-free (it can be packed securely in your checked luggage, along with any other liquid-containing items). To bring alcohol (or liquid-packed foods) in your carry-on bag on your flight home, buy it at a duty-free shop at the airport. You’ll increase your odds of getting it onto a connecting flight if it’s packaged in a “STEB”—a secure, tamper-evident bag. But stay away from liquids in opaque, ceramic, or metallic containers, which usually cannot be successfully screened (STEB or no STEB).
For details on allowable goods, customs rules, and duty rates, visit www.cbp.gov.
Sightseeing can be hard work. Use these tips to make your visits to Scandinavia’s finest sights meaningful, fun, efficient, and painless.
Set up an itinerary that allows you to fit in all your must-see sights. For a one-stop look at opening hours in the bigger cities, see the “At a Glance” sidebars for Copenhagen, Oslo, Bergen, Stockholm, Helsinki, and Tallinn. Most sights keep stable hours, but you can easily confirm the latest by checking with the TI or visiting museum websites.
Don’t put off visiting a must-see sight—you never know when a place will close unexpectedly for a holiday, strike, or restoration. Many museums are closed or have reduced hours at least a few days a year, especially on holidays such as Christmas, New Year’s, and Labor Day (May 1). A list of holidays is on here; check museum websites for possible closures during your trip. In summer, some sights may stay open late. Off-season, many museums have shorter hours.
Going at the right time helps avoid crowds. This book offers tips on the best times to see specific sights. Try visiting popular sights very early or very late. Evening visits are usually peaceful, with fewer crowds.
Study up. To get the most out of the sight descriptions in this book, read them before your visit.
Here’s what you can typically expect:
Entering: Be warned that you may not be allowed to enter if you arrive 30 to 60 minutes before closing time. And guards start ushering people out well before the actual closing time, so don’t save the best for last.
Some important sights have a security check, where you must open your bag or send it through a metal detector. Some sights require you to check daypacks and coats. (If you’d rather not check your daypack, try carrying it tucked under your arm like a purse as you enter.)
Photography: If the museum’s photo policy isn’t clearly posted, ask a guard. Generally, taking photos without a flash or tripod is allowed. Some sights ban photos altogether.
Temporary Exhibits: Museums may show special exhibits in addition to their permanent collection. Some exhibits are included in the entry price, while others come at an extra cost (which you may have to pay even if you don’t want to see the exhibit).
Expect Changes: Artwork can be on tour, on loan, out sick, or shifted at the whim of the curator. To adapt, pick up a floor plan as you enter, and ask museum staff if you can’t find a particular item.
Audioguides: Many sights rent audioguides, which generally offer excellent recorded descriptions in English (about $8 or less). If you bring your own earbuds, you can enjoy better sound and avoid holding the device to your ear. To save money, bring a Y-jack and share one audioguide with your travel partner. Increasingly, museums are offering apps (often free) that you can download to your mobile device.
Services: Important sights may have an on-site café or cafeteria (usually a handy place to rejuvenate during a long visit). The WCs at sights are free and nearly always clean.
Before Leaving: At the gift shop, scan the postcard rack or thumb through a guidebook to be sure that you haven’t overlooked something that you’d like to see.
Every sight or museum offers more than what is covered in this book. Use the information in this book as an introduction—not the final word.
Accommodations in Scandinavia are fairly expensive, but normally very comfortable and come with breakfast. When budgeting, plan on spending about $180 per hotel double in big cities, and $100 in towns and in private homes.
I favor hotels and restaurants that are handy to your sightseeing activities. Rather than list hotels scattered throughout a city, I choose two or three favorite neighborhoods and recommend the best accommodation values in each, from dorm beds to fancy doubles with all the comforts.
A major feature of this book is its extensive and opinionated listing of good-value rooms. I like places that are clean, central, relatively quiet at night, reasonably priced, friendly, small enough to have a hands-on owner and stable staff, run with a respect for Scandinavian traditions, and not listed in other guidebooks. (In Scandinavia, for me, six out of these eight criteria means it’s a keeper.) I’m more impressed by a convenient location and a fun-loving philosophy than flat-screen TVs and a pricey laundry service. I’ve also thrown in a few hostels, private rooms, and other cheap options for budget travelers.
Book your accommodations well in advance, especially if you’ll be traveling during busy times. See here for a list of major holidays and festivals in Scandinavia; for tips on making reservations, see here.
Some people make reservations as they travel, calling hotels a few days to a week before their arrival. If you’d rather travel without any reservations at all, you’ll have greater success snaring rooms if you arrive at your destination early in the day. If you anticipate crowds (weekends are worst) on the day you want to check in, call hotels at about 9:00 or 10:00, when the receptionist knows who’ll be checking out and which rooms will be available. If you encounter a language barrier, ask the fluent receptionist at your current hotel to call for you.
To get the most sleep for your dollar at these northern latitudes, pull the dark shades (and even consider bringing your own night shades) to keep out the early-morning sun.
I’ve described my recommended accommodations using a Sleep Code (see sidebar). Prices listed are for one-night stays in peak season, include breakfast, and assume you’re booking directly with the hotel (not through an online-booking engine or TI). Booking services extract a commission from the hotel, which logically closes the door on special deals. Book direct.
Each of my recommended hotels has a website (often with a built-in booking form) and an email address; you can expect a response in English within a day (and often sooner).
If you’re on a budget, it’s smart to email several hotels to ask for their best price. Comparison-shop and make your choice. This is especially helpful when dealing with the larger hotels that use “dynamic pricing,” a computer-generated system that predicts the demand for particular days and sets prices accordingly: High-demand days will often be more than double the price of low-demand days. This makes it impossible for a guidebook to list anything more accurate than a wide range of prices. I regret this trend. While you can assume that hotels listed in this book are good, it’s very difficult to say which ones are the better value unless you email to confirm the price.
As you look over the listings, you’ll notice that some accommodations promise special prices to Rick Steves readers. To get these rates, you must book direct (that is, not through a booking site like TripAdvisor or Booking.com), mention this book when you reserve, and then show the book upon arrival. Rick Steves discounts apply to readers with ebooks as well as printed books. Because I trust hotels to honor this, please let me know if you don’t receive a listed discount. Note, though, that discounts understandably may not be applied to promotional rates.
In general, prices can soften if you do any of the following: offer to pay cash, stay at least three nights, or mention this book. You can also try asking for a cheaper room or a discount, or offer to skip breakfast.
Many places keep an odd misfit room (100 kr cheaper than the others) lashed to a bedpost in the attic, but will only tell you if you ask. Backpacker places have a range of rooms, blurring the distinction between “hotel” and “hostel.” Money-conscious travelers should consider doubles in hostels and rooms in simple hotels with shared baths—a respectable option in clean and wholesome Scandinavia.
A triple is much cheaper than a double and a single. While hotel singles are most expensive, private accommodations have a flat per-person rate. Hostels and dorms always charge per person. Families can get a price break; normally a child can sleep free or for very little in the parents’ room.
Hotels are expensive ($150-250 doubles), with some exceptions. Even though most hotels in Scandinavia base their prices on demand, it is possible to find lower prices during the summer and on weekends. Check hotel websites for deals. When a classy, modern $200 place has a $150 summer special that includes two $10 buffet breakfasts, the dumpy $100 hotel room without breakfast becomes less exciting.
Many modern hotels have “combi” rooms (singles with a sofa that turns the room into a perfectly good double), which are cheaper than a full double. And if a hotel is not full, any day can bring out summer discounts.
If you’re arriving early in the morning, your room probably won’t be ready. You can drop your bag safely at the hotel and dive right into sightseeing.
Hoteliers can be a great help and source of advice. Most know their city well, and can assist you with everything from public transit and airport connections to finding a good restaurant, the nearest launderette, or a Wi-Fi hotspot.
Even at the best places, mechanical breakdowns occur: Air-conditioning malfunctions, sinks leak, hot water turns cold, and toilets gurgle and smell. Report your concerns clearly and calmly at the front desk. For more complicated problems, don’t expect instant results.
If you suspect night noise will be a problem (if, for instance, your room is over a nightclub), ask for a quieter room in the back or on an upper floor. To guard against theft in your room, keep valuables out of sight. Some rooms come with a safe, and other hotels have safes at the front desk. I’ve never bothered using one.
Checkout can pose problems if surprise charges pop up on your bill. If you settle up your bill the afternoon before you leave, you’ll have time to discuss and address any points of contention (before 19:00, when the night shift usually arrives).
Above all, keep a positive attitude. Remember, you’re on vacation. If your hotel is a disappointment, spend more time out enjoying the city you came to see.
Throughout Scandinavia, people rent rooms in their homes to travelers for about $85 per double (or about $95 for a double with private bath). You’ll get your own key to a clean, comfortable, but usually simple private room (sometimes without a sink), with access to the family shower and WC if the room doesn’t have its own bath.
While some put out a Værelse, Rom, Rum, or Hus Rum sign, and some can be booked through the local TI (which occasionally keeps these B&Bs a secret until all hotel rooms are taken), you’ll most likely find them online through sites such as Airbnb or Roomorama. When possible, I’ve listed direct contact information for B&Bs—booking direct saves both you and your host the cut the TI takes. The TIs are very protective of their lists. If you enjoy a big-city private home that would like to be listed in this book, I’d love to hear from you.
Other Accommodation Options: If you want a place to sleep that’s free, Couchsurfing.org is a vagabond’s alternative to Airbnb. It lists millions of outgoing members, who host fellow “surfers” in their homes. And websites such as HomeAway and its sister sites VRBO and GreatRentals are good resources for finding apartments or houses to rent.
Scandinavian hostels, Europe’s finest, are open to travelers of all ages. They offer classy facilities, members’ kitchens (making your own meals is a great way to save money), cheap hot meals (often breakfast buffets), plenty of doubles (for a few extra kroner), guest computers, Wi-Fi, self-service laundries, and great people experiences. Nowadays, concerned about bedbugs, hostels are likely to provide all bedding, including sheets. Family and private rooms may be available on request. Hostels are also a tremendous source of local and budget travel information. Note that many hostels close in the off-season.
You’ll find lots of Volvos in hostel parking lots, as Scandinavians know that hostels provide the best (and usually only) $35 beds in town. Hosteling is ideal for families who fit into two sets of bunk beds (4-bed rooms, kitchens, washing machines, discount family memberships). Pick up each country’s free hostel directory at any hostel or TI.
Independent hostels tend to be easygoing, colorful, and informal (no membership required); www.hostelworld.com is the standard way backpackers search and book hostels these days, but also try www.hostelz.com and www.hostels.com.
Official hostels are part of Hostelling International (HI) and share an online booking site (www.hihostels.com). HI hostels typically require that you either have a membership card or pay extra per night. Many hostels in Norway regularly promote nonmember prices—if you have a membership card, be sure to ask about a discount.
Scandinavian campgrounds are practical, comfortable, and cheap (about $10/person with $20 camping card, available on the spot). This is the middle-class Scandinavian family way to travel: safe, great social fun, and no reservation problems. Campgrounds are friendly, safe, more central and convenient than rustic, and rarely full.
Reserve your rooms several weeks in advance—or as soon as you’ve pinned down your travel dates. Note that some national holidays merit your making reservations far in advance (see here).
Requesting a Reservation: It’s easiest to book your room through the hotel’s website. (For the best rates, always use the hotel’s official site and not a booking agency’s site.) If there’s no reservation form, or for complicated requests, send an email (see sample request). Most recommended hotels take reservations in English. The hotelier wants to know:
• the number and type of rooms you need
• the number of nights you’ll stay
• your date of arrival (use the European style for writing dates: day/month/year)
• your date of departure
• any special needs (such as bathroom in the room or down the hall, cheapest room, twin beds vs. double bed, and so on)
Mention any discounts—for Rick Steves readers or otherwise—when you make the reservation.
Confirming a Reservation: Most places will request your credit-card number to hold the room. If they don’t have a secure online reservation form—look for the https—you can email it (I do), but it’s safer to share that confidential info via a phone call or two emails (splitting your number between them).
Canceling a Reservation: If you must cancel, it’s courteous—and smart—to do so with as much notice as possible, especially for smaller family-run places. Be warned that cancellation policies can be strict; read the fine print or ask about these before you book. Internet deals may require prepayment, with no refunds for cancellations.
Reconfirming a Reservation: Always call to reconfirm your room reservation a few days in advance. For smaller hotels and B&Bs, I call again on my day of arrival to tell my host what time I expect to get there (especially important if arriving late—after 17:00).
Phoning: For tips on how to call hotels overseas, see here.
The national tourist office websites have campground listings, but for more comprehensive guides, visit these websites: www.camping.se (Sweden), www.camping.dk (Denmark), and www.camping.no (Norway). Your hometown travel bookstore should also have guidebooks on camping in Europe. You’ll find campgrounds just about everywhere you need them.
Most campgrounds provide huts (hytter) for wannabe campers with no gear. Huts normally sleep four to six in bunk beds, come with blankets and a kitchenette, and charge one fee (about 500 kr or more, plus extra if you need sheets). The toilet and shower may be in a nearby shared washhouse. Because locals typically move in for a week or two, many campground huts are booked for summer long in advance. You can book these ahead as well, or try your chances on the road.
When restaurant-hunting, choose a spot filled with locals, not tourists. Venturing even a block or two off the main drag leads to higher-quality food for less than half the price of the tourist-oriented places. Locals eat better at lower-rent locales.
Most Scandinavian nations have one inedible dish that is cherished with a perverse but patriotic sentimentality. These dishes, which often originated during a famine, now remind the young of their ancestors’ suffering. Norway’s penitential food, lutefisk (dried cod marinated for days in lye and water), is used for Christmas and for jokes.
Hotel breakfasts are a huge and filling buffet, generally included but occasionally a $12-or-so option. They feature fruit, cereal, and various milks (look for words like skummet for skim, lett for low-fat, sød or hel for whole, filmjölk for buttermilk). Grab a drinkable yogurt and go local by pouring it in the bowl and sprinkling your cereal over it. The great selection of breads and crackers comes with jam, butter (smør), margarine (same word), and cheese (ost). And you’ll get cold cuts (pålegg), pickled herring (sursild), caviar paste (in a squeeze tube), and boiled eggs (egg or æg—bløt is soft-boiled, kokt is hard-boiled); use the plastic egg cups and small spoons provided to eat your soft-boiled egg Scandinavian-style.
The brown cheese with the texture of earwax and a slightly sweet taste is called geitost (“goat cheese”) or brunost (“brown cheese”). Popular in Norway, it’s not really a cheese—it’s made from boiled-down, slightly sweetened whey—and often contains a blend of goat and cow’s milk. Try to develop a taste for this odd but enjoyable dairy product. Swedes prefer a spreadable variety called messmör.
For beverages, it’s orange juice (the word for orange is appelsin, so OJ is AJ) and coffee or tea. Coffee addicts can buy a thermos and get it filled in most hotels and hostels for around $5. While it’s bad form to take freebies from the breakfast buffet to eat later, many hotels will provide you with wax paper and a plastic bag to pack yourself a lunch, legitimately, for $7-8. Ask for a matpakke (packed lunch).
If you skip your hotel’s breakfast, you can visit a bakery to get a sandwich and cup of coffee. Bakeries have wonderful inexpensive pastries. The only cheap breakfast is the one you make yourself. Many simple accommodations provide kitchenettes or at least coffeepots.
Many restaurants offer cheap daily lunch specials (dagens rett) and buffets for office workers. Scandinavians, not big on lunch, often just grab a sandwich (smørrebrød) and a cup of coffee at their work desk.
Especially in Denmark, you’ll find smørrebrød shops turning sandwiches into an art form. These open-face delights taste as good as they look. My favorite is the one piled high with shrimp (reker or rejer). The roast beef is good, too. Shops will wrap sandwiches up for a perfect picnic in a nearby park.
If you want to enjoy a combination of picnics and restaurant meals on your trip, you’ll save money by eating in restaurants at lunch (when there’s usually a special and food is generally cheaper) and picnicking for dinner.
Scandinavia has colorful markets and economical supermarkets. Picnic-friendly minimarkets at gas and train stations are open late. Samples of picnic treats: Wasa cracker bread (Sport is my favorite; Ideal flatbrød is ideal for munchies), packaged meat and cheese, brown “goat cheese” (geitost), drinkable yogurt, freshly cooked or smoked fish from markets, fresh fruit and vegetables, lingonberries, squeeze tubes of mustard and sandwich spreads (shrimp, caviar), rye bread, and boxes of juice and milk. Grocery stores sell a cheap, light breakfast: a handy yogurt with cereal and a spoon. Most places offer cheap ready-made sandwiches. If you’re bored with sandwiches, some groceries and most delis have hot chicken, salads by the portion, and picnic portables.
The large meal of the Nordic day is an early dinner. Most Scandinavians eat dinner at home, and restaurant dinners are expensive treats. Alternate between picnic dinners (outside or in your hotel or hostel); cheap, forgettable, but filling cafeteria or fast-food dinners ($20); and atmospheric, carefully chosen restaurants popular with locals ($40 and up). One main course and two salads or soups fill up two travelers without emptying their pocketbooks. If potatoes came with your main dish, most servers are happy to give you a second helping. Booze is pricey: A beer costs about $12 in Oslo. Water is served free with an understanding smile at most restaurants (though in Denmark, there is a charge for water if you don’t order another beverage).
In Scandinavia, a $40 meal in a restaurant is not that much more than a $30 American meal, since tax and tip are included in the menu price.
The smörgåsbord (known in Denmark and Norway as the store koldt bord) is a Scandinavian culinary tradition. Though locals reserve the smörgåsbord for festive times such as the Christmas season, anyone can dig into this all-you-can-eat buffet any time of year at certain hotels and on overnight ferries. While the word originally referred to a spread of cold cuts, the smörgåsbords you’ll find usually include hot dishes, too.
Seek out a smörgåsbord at least once during your trip, just for the high of seeing so much wholesome Nordic food spread out in front of you. Good smörgåsbord opportunities covered in this book are at the Grand Hotel in Stockholm; on the overnight boats between Stockholm and Helsinki or Copenhagen and Oslo; and at Kviknes Hotel in the Norwegian fjordside town of Balestrand.
Follow these simple steps to enjoy a smaklig (tasty) smörgåsbord:
1. Browse the buffet before you begin, so you can budget your stomach space. Think of the smörgåsbord as a five- or six-course meal.
2. Don’t overload your plate. Instead, make several trips, taking a fresh plate and cutlery each time. To signal the waiter that you’re finished with each round, lay your fork and knife side-by-side on the plate. If you’re getting up but are not finished with your plate, place your fork and knife in the shape of an X on the plate.
3. Begin with the herring dishes, along with boiled potatoes and knäckebröd (Swedish crisp bread).
4. Next, sample the other fish dishes (warm and cold) and more potatoes. Gravlax is salt-cured salmon flavored with dill, served along with a sweet mustard sauce (gravlax senap).
5. Move on to salads, egg dishes, and various cold cuts.
6. Now for the meat dishes—it’s meatball time! Pour on some gravy as well as a spoonful of lingonberry sauce, and have more potatoes. Reindeer and other roast meats and poultry may also tempt you.
7. Still hungry? Make a point to sample the Nordic cheeses—try creamy Havarti, mild Castello (a soft blue cheese), and in Norwegian buffets, goat cheese. Sample the delicious seasonal fruits and franskbrød white bread. And there are racks of traditional desserts, cakes, and custards (see “Dessert,” later). Cap the meal with coffee.
Smaklig måltid! Enjoy your meal!
Purchasing heavily taxed wine, beer, and spirits in Scandinavia can put a dent in your vacation budget. In Sweden and Norway, spirits, wine, and strong beer (more than 3.5 percent alcohol) are sold in state-run liquor stores: Systembolaget in Sweden, and Vinmonopolet in Norway. Buying a beer or glass of wine in a bar or restaurant in Sweden or Norway is particularly expensive. Therefore, many Scandinavians will have a drink or a glass of wine at home (or in their hotel room) before going out, then limit themselves to one or two glasses at the restaurant. If taking an overnight cruise during your trip, you can get a good deal on a bottle of wine or spirits in the onboard duty-free shop. Liquor laws are much more relaxed in Denmark, where you can buy wine, beer, and spirits at any supermarket or corner store. Prices are a bit lower as well. Public drinking is acceptable in Denmark, while it is illegal (although often done) in Norway and Sweden. Throughout Scandinavia, drinking and driving is not tolerated.
Some local specialties are akvavit, a strong, vodka-like spirit distilled from potatoes and flavored with anise, caraway, or other herbs and spices—then drunk ice-cold (common in Norway, Sweden, and Denmark). Lakka is a syrupy-sweet liqueur made from cloudberries, the small orange berries grown in the Arctic (popular in Norway, Sweden, and Finland). Salmiakka is a nearly black licorice-flavored liqueur (Finland, Norway, and Denmark). Gammel Dansk can be described as Danish bitters for the adventurous (Denmark only).
Scandinavians love sweets. A meal is not complete without a little treat and a cup of coffee at the end. Bakeries (konditori) fill their window cases with all varieties of cakes, tarts, cookies, and pastries. The most popular ingredients are marzipan, almonds, hazelnuts, chocolate, and fresh berries. Many cakes are covered with entire sheets of solid marzipan. To find the neighborhood bakery, just look for a golden pretzel hanging above the door or windows.
Scandinavian chocolate is some of the best in Europe. In Denmark, seek out Anthon Berg’s dark chocolate and marzipan treats, as well as Toms’ chocolate-covered caramels (Toms Guld are the best). Sweden’s biggest chocolate producer, Maribou, makes huge bars of solid milk chocolate, as well as some with dried fruits or nuts. Daim are milk chocolate-covered hard toffees, sold in a variety of sizes, from large bars to bite-size pieces, all in bright-red wrappers. The Freia company, Norway’s chocolate goddess (named for the Norse goddess Freya), makes a wonderful assortment of delights, from Et lite stykke Norge (“A little piece of Norway”—bars of creamy milk chocolate wrapped in pale-yellow paper) and Smil (chocolate-covered soft caramels sold in rolls) to Firkløver (bars of milk chocolate with hazelnuts). For those who can’t decide on one type, the company sells bags of assorted chocolates called Twist and red gift boxes of chocolates called Kong Haakon, named after Norway’s first king.
While chocolate rules, licorice and gummy candies are also popular. Black licorice (lakrits) is at its best here, except for salt lakrits (salty licorice), which is not for the timid. Black licorice flavors everything from ice cream to chewing gum to liqueur (see “Drinking,” earlier). Throughout Scandinavia, you’ll find stores selling all varieties of candy in bulk. Fill your bag with a variety of candies and pay by the gram. Look around at the customers in these stores...they aren’t all children.
“How can I stay connected in Europe?”—by phone and online—may be the most common question I hear from travelers. You have three basic options:
1. “Roam” with your US mobile device. This is the easiest option, but likely the most expensive. It works best for people who won’t be making very many calls, and who value the convenience of sticking with what’s familiar (and their own phone number). In recent years, as data roaming fees have dropped and free Wi-Fi has become easier to find, the majority of travelers are finding this to be the best all-around option.
2. Use an unlocked mobile phone with European SIM cards. This is a much more affordable option if you’ll be making lots of calls, since it gives you 24/7 access to low European rates. Although remarkably cheap, this option does require a bit of shopping around for the right phone and a prepaid SIM card. Savvy travelers who routinely buy European SIM cards swear by this tactic.
3. Use public phones, and get online with your hotel’s guest computer and/or at Internet cafés. These options work particularly well for travelers who simply don’t want to hassle with the technology, or want to be (mostly) untethered from their home life while on the road.
Each of these options is explained in greater detail in the following pages. Mixing and matching works well. For example, I routinely bring along my smartphone for Internet chores and Skyping on Wi-Fi, but also carry an unlocked phone and buy SIM cards for affordable calls on the go.
For an even more in-depth explanation of this complicated topic, see www.ricksteves.com/phoning.
Many Americans are intimidated by dialing European phone numbers. You needn’t be. It’s simple, once you break the code.
The following instructions apply to dialing from a landline (such as a pay phone or your hotel-room phone) or from a Scandinavian mobile phone. If you’re roaming with a US phone number, follow the “Dialing Internationally” directions described later.
Denmark, Estonia, and Norway use a direct-dial system (no area codes). To call anywhere within one of these countries, just dial the number. For example, the number of one of my recommended Copenhagen hotels is 33 13 19 13. To call the hotel from anywhere in Denmark (including Copenhagen), simply dial 33 13 19 13.
Sweden and Finland, on the other hand, use area codes. To make domestic calls anywhere within these countries, punch in just the phone number if you’re dialing locally, and add the area code if calling long distance. For example, Stockholm’s area code is 08, and the number of one of my recommended Stockholm hotels is 723-7250. To call the hotel within Stockholm, just dial 723-7250. To call it from Kalmar (in southeast Sweden), dial 08/723-7250. Be aware, however, that if you’re calling a mobile or toll-free number, you’ll need to dial the whole number, regardless of where you’re calling from.
Always start with the international access code (011 if you’re calling from the US or Canada, 00 if you’re calling from Europe). If you’re dialing from a mobile phone, simply insert a + instead (by holding the 0 key).
Dial the country code of the country you’re calling (45 for Denmark, 47 for Norway, 46 for Sweden, 358 for Finland, 372 for Estonia, or 1 for the US or Canada).
Then dial the area code (if applicable) and the local number, keeping in mind that calling many countries requires dropping the initial zero of the area code or local number. The European calling chart lists specifics per country.
Calling from the US to direct-dial countries (Denmark, Estonia, and Norway): To call the Copenhagen hotel from the US, dial 011 (US access code), 45 (Denmark’s country code), then 33 13 19 13 (the hotel’s local number).
Calling from the US to area-code countries (Sweden and Finland): To call the Stockholm hotel from the US, dial 011, 46 (Sweden’s country code), 8 (Stockholm’s area code minus the initial zero), then 723-7250 (local number).
Calling from any European country to the US: To call my office in Edmonds, Washington, from anywhere in Europe, I dial 00 (Europe’s access code), 1 (US country code), 425 (Edmonds’ area code), and 771-8303.
The chart on the next page shows you how to dial per country. For online instructions, see www.countrycallingcodes.com or www.howtocallabroad.com.
Remember, if you’re using a mobile phone, dial as if you’re in that phone’s country of origin. So, when roaming with your US phone number in Scandinavia, dial as if you’re calling from the US. But if you’re using a European SIM card, dial as you would from that European country.
Note that calls to a European mobile phone are substantially more expensive than calls to a fixed line. Off-hour calls are generally cheaper.
Don’t be surprised that Scandinavian phone numbers may vary in length; for instance, a hotel can have a six-digit phone number and an eight-digit fax number.
Even in this age of email, texting, and near-universal Internet access, smart travelers still use the telephone. I call TIs to smooth out sightseeing plans, hotels to get driving directions, museums to confirm tour schedules, restaurants to check open hours or to book a table, and so on.
Most people enjoy the convenience of bringing their own smartphone. Horror stories about sky-high roaming fees are dated and exaggerated, and major service providers work hard to avoid surprising you with an exorbitant bill. With a little planning, you can use your phone—for voice calls, messaging, and Internet access—without breaking the bank.
Start by figuring out whether your phone works in Europe. Most phones purchased through AT&T and T-Mobile (which use the same technology as Europe) work abroad, while only some phones from Verizon or Sprint do—check your operating manual (look for “tri-band,” “quad-band,” or “GSM”). If you’re not sure, ask your service provider.
“Roaming” with your phone—that is, using it outside its home region, such as in Europe—generally comes with extra charges, whether you are making voice calls, sending texts, or reading your email. The fees listed here are for the three major American providers—Verizon, AT&T, and T-Mobile; Sprint’s roaming rates tend to be much higher. But policies change fast, so get the latest details before your trip. For example, as of mid-2014, T-Mobile waived voice, texting, and data roaming fees for some plans.
Voice calls are the most expensive. Most US providers charge from $1.29 to $1.99 per minute to make or receive calls in Europe. (As you cross each border, you’ll typically get a text message explaining the rates in the new country.) If you plan to make multiple calls, look into a global calling plan to lower the per-minute cost, or buy a package of minutes at a discounted price (such as 30 minutes for $30). Note that you’ll be charged for incoming calls whether or not you answer them; to save money ask your friends to stay in contact by texting, and to call you only in case of an emergency.
Text messaging costs 20 to 50 cents per text. To cut that cost, you could sign up for an international messaging plan (for example, $10 for 100 texts). Or consider apps that let you text for free (iMessage for Apple, Google Hangouts for Android, or WhatsApp for any device); however, these require you to use Wi-Fi or data roaming. Be aware that Europeans use the term “SMS” (“short message service”) to describe text messaging.
Data roaming means accessing data services via a cellular network other than your home carrier’s. Prices have dropped dramatically in recent years, making this an affordable way for travelers to bridge gaps between Wi-Fi hotspots. You’ll pay far less if you set up an international data roaming plan. Most providers charge $25-30 for 100-120 megabytes of data. That’s plenty for basic Internet tasks—100 megabytes lets you view 100 websites or send/receive 1,000 text-based emails, but you’ll burn through that amount quickly by streaming videos or music. If your data use exceeds your plan amount, most providers will automatically kick in an additional 100- or 120-megabyte block for the same price. (For more, see “Using Wi-Fi and Data Roaming,” later.)
With most service providers, international roaming (voice, text, and data) is disabled on your account unless you activate it. Before your trip, call your provider (or navigate their website), and cover the following topics:
• Confirm that your phone will work in Europe.
• Verify global roaming rates for voice calls, text messaging, and data.
• Tell them which of those services you’d like to activate.
• Consider add-on plans to bring down the cost of international calls, texts, or data roaming.
When you get home from Europe, be sure to cancel any add-on plans that you activated for your trip.
Some people would rather use their smartphone exclusively on Wi-Fi, and not worry about either voice or data charges. If that’s you, call your provider to be sure that international roaming options are deactivated on your account. To be double-sure, put your phone in “airplane mode,” then turn your Wi-Fi back on.
A good approach is to use free Wi-Fi wherever possible, and fill in the gaps with data roaming.
Wi-Fi is readily available throughout Europe. At accommodations, access is usually free, but you may have to pay a fee, especially at expensive hotels. At hotels with thick walls, the Wi-Fi signal from the lobby may not reach every room. If Wi-Fi is important to you, ask about it when you book—and be specific (“In the rooms?”). Get the password and network name at the front desk when you check in.
When you’re out and about, your best bet for finding free Wi-Fi is often at a café. They’ll usually tell you the password if you buy something. Or you can stroll down a café-lined street, smartphone in hand, checking for unsecured networks every few steps until you find one that works. Some towns have free public Wi-Fi in highly trafficked parks or piazzas. You may have to register before using it, or get a password at the TI.
Data roaming is handy when you can’t find Wi-Fi. Because you’ll pay by the megabyte (explained earlier), it’s best to limit how much data you use. Save bandwidth-gobbling tasks like Skyping, watching videos, or downloading apps or emails with large attachments until you’re on Wi-Fi. Switch your phone’s email settings from “push” to “fetch.” This means that you can choose to “fetch” (download) your messages when you’re on Wi-Fi rather than having them continuously “pushed” to your device. And be aware of apps—such as news, weather, and sports tickers—that automatically update. Check your phone’s settings to be sure that none of your apps are set to “use cellular data.”
I like the safeguard of manually turning off data roaming on my phone whenever I’m not actively using it. To turn off data and voice roaming, look in your phone’s settings menu—try checking under “cellular” or “network,” or ask your service provider how to do it. If you need to get online but can’t find Wi-Fi, simply turn on data roaming long enough for the task at hand, then turn it off again.
Figure out how to keep track of how much data you’ve used (in your phone’s menu, look for “cellular data usage”; you may have to reset the counter at the start of your trip). Some companies automatically send you a text message warning if you approach or exceed your limit.
There’s yet another option: If you’re traveling with an unlocked smartphone (explained later), you can buy a SIM card that also includes data; this can be far cheaper than data roaming through your home provider.
While using your American phone in Europe is easy, it’s not always cheap. And unreliable Wi-Fi can make keeping in touch frustrating. If you’re reasonably technology-savvy, and would like to have the option of making lots of affordable calls, it’s worth getting comfortable with European SIM cards.
Here’s the basic idea: With an unlocked phone (which works with different carriers; see below), get a SIM card—the microchip that stores data about your phone—once you get to Europe. Slip in the SIM, turn on the phone, and bingo! You’ve got a European phone number (and access to cheaper European rates).
Your basic options are getting your existing phone unlocked, or buying a phone (either at home or in Europe).
Some phones are electronically “locked” so that you can’t switch SIM cards (keeping you loyal to your carrier). But in some circumstances it’s possible to unlock your phone—allowing you to replace the original SIM card with one that will work with a European provider. Note that some US carriers are beginning to offer phones/tablets whose SIM card can’t be swapped out in the US but will accept a European SIM without any unlocking process.
You may already have an old, unused mobile phone in a drawer somewhere. Call your service provider and ask if they’ll send you the unlock code. Otherwise, you can buy one: Search an online shopping site for an “unlocked quad-band phone,” or buy one at a mobile-phone shop in Europe. Either way, a basic model typically costs $40 or less.
Once you have an unlocked phone, you’ll need to buy a SIM card (note that a smaller variation called “micro-SIM” or “nano-SIM”—used in most iPhones—is less widely available.)
SIM cards are sold at mobile-phone shops, department-store electronics counters, and newsstands for $5–10, and usually include about that much prepaid calling credit (making the card itself virtually free). Because SIM cards are prepaid, there’s no contract and no commitment; I routinely buy one even if I’m in a country for only a few days.
In Sweden, Finland, and Estonia, buying a SIM card is as easy as buying a pack of gum. However, an increasing number of countries—including Norway and Denmark—require you to register the SIM card with your passport (an antiterrorism measure). This takes only a few minutes longer: The shop clerk will ask you to fill out a form, then submit it to the service provider. Sometimes you can register your own SIM card online. Either way, an hour or two after submitting the information, you’ll get a text welcoming you to that network.
When using a SIM card in its home country, it’s free to receive calls and texts, and it’s cheap to make calls—domestic calls average 20 cents per minute. You can also use SIM cards to call the US—sometimes very affordably (Lebara and Lycamobile, which operate in multiple European countries, let you call a US number for less than 10 cents a minute). I’ve also had good luck with Telenor SIM cards in Norway and Comviq cards in Sweden. Rates are higher if you’re roaming in another country. But if you bought the SIM card within the European Union, roaming fees are capped no matter where you travel throughout the EU (about 25 cents/minute to make calls, 7 cents/minute to receive calls, and 8 cents for a text message). Keep in mind, though, that Norway is not part of the EU.
While you can buy SIM cards just about anywhere, I like to seek out a mobile-phone shop, where an English-speaking clerk can help explain my options, get my SIM card inserted and set up, and show me how to use it. When you buy your SIM card, ask about rates for domestic and international calls and texting, and about roaming fees. Also find out how to check your credit balance (usually you’ll key in a few digits and hit “Send”). You can top up your credit at any newsstand, tobacco shop, mobile-phone shop, or many other businesses (look for the SIM card’s logo in the window).
To insert your SIM card into the phone, locate the slot, which is usually on the side of the phone or behind the battery. Turning on the phone, you’ll be prompted to enter the “SIM PIN” (a code number that came with your card).
If you have an unlocked smartphone, you can look for a European SIM card that covers both voice and data. This is often much cheaper than paying for data roaming through your home provider.
If you prefer to travel without a smartphone or tablet, you can still stay in touch using landline telephones, hotel guest computers, and Internet cafés.
Phones in your hotel room can be great for local calls and for calls using cheap international phone cards (described in the sidebar). Many hotels charge a fee for local and “toll-free” as well as long-distance or international calls—always ask for the rates before you dial. Since you’ll never be charged for receiving calls, it can be more affordable to have someone from the US call you in your room.
While public pay phones are on the endangered species list, you’ll still see them in post offices and train stations. Pay phones generally come with multilingual instructions. Most public phones work with insertable phone cards (described in the sidebar).
You’ll see many cheap call shops that advertise low rates to faraway lands, often in train-station neighborhoods. While these target immigrants who want to call home cheaply, tourists can use them, too. Before making your call, be completely clear on the rates.
Finding public Internet terminals in Europe is no problem. Many hotels have a computer in the lobby for guests to use. Otherwise, head for an Internet café, or ask the TI or your hotelier for the nearest place to access the Internet.
European computers typically use non-American keyboards. A few letters are switched around, and command keys are labeled in the local language. Many European keyboards have an “Alt Gr” key (for “Alternate Graphics”) to the right of the space bar; press this to insert the extra symbol that appears on some keys. Europeans have different names for, and different ways to type, the @ symbol. If you can’t locate a special character (such as the @ symbol), simply copy it from a Web page and paste it into your email message.
Whether you’re accessing the Internet with your own device or at a public terminal, using a shared network or computer comes with the potential for increased security risks. Ask the hotel or café for the specific name of their Wi-Fi network, and make sure you log on to that exact one; hackers sometimes create a bogus hotspot with a similar or vague name (such as “Hotel Europa Free Wi-Fi”). It’s better if a network uses a password (especially a hard-to-guess one) rather than being open to the world.
While traveling, you may want to check your online banking or credit-card statements, or to take care of other personal-finance chores, but Internet security experts advise against accessing these sites entirely while traveling. Even if you’re using your own computer at a password-protected hotspot, any hacker who’s logged on to the same network can see what you’re up to. If you need to log on to a banking website, try to do so on a hard-wired connection (i.e., using an Ethernet cable in your hotel room), or if that’s not possible, use a secure banking app on a cellular telephone connection.
If using a credit card online, make sure that the site is secure. Most browsers display a little padlock icon, and the URL begins with https instead of http. Never send a credit-card number over a website that doesn’t begin with https.
If you’re not convinced a connection is secure, avoid accessing any sites (such as your bank’s) that could be vulnerable to fraud.
You can mail one package per day to yourself worth up to $200 duty-free from Europe to the US (mark it “personal purchases”). If you’re sending a gift to someone, mark it “unsolicited gift.” For details, visit www.cbp.gov and search for “Know Before You Go.”
The postal service works fine throughout Scandinavia, but for quick transatlantic delivery (in either direction), consider services such as DHL (www.dhl.com). You can get stamps at the neighborhood post office, newsstands within fancy hotels, and some mini-marts and card shops.
Copenhagen is usually the most direct and least expensive Scandinavian capital to fly into from the US (Icelandair serves Copenhagen as well as Stockholm, Oslo, and Helsinki). Copenhagen is also Europe’s gateway to Scandinavia from points south. There are often cheaper flights from the US into Frankfurt and Amsterdam than into Copenhagen, but it’s a long, rather dull, one-day drive (with a 45-minute, $90-per-car ferry crossing at Puttgarden, Germany—www.scandlines.dk). By train, Copenhagen is an easy overnight ride from Cologne or Frankfurt. The base ticket price ($200 or more) is covered if you have a Global Pass or a rail pass covering the particular countries. Another option is flying into London and then hopping to Copenhagen on a low-cost, no-frills airline, such as easyJet or Ryanair.
For transportation within Scandinavia, consider these factors: Cars are best for three or more traveling together (especially families with small kids), those packing heavy, and those scouring the countryside. Trains, buses, and boats are best for solo travelers, blitz tourists, and city-to-city travelers, those with an ambitious, multi-country itinerary; and those who don’t want to drive in Europe. While a car gives you more freedom, trains, buses, and boats zip you effortlessly and scenically from city to city, usually dropping you in the center, often near a TI. Cars are an expensive headache in places like Copenhagen and Stockholm.
With a few exceptions, trains cover my recommended Scandinavian destinations wonderfully.
Schedules and Tickets: Pick up train schedules from stations as you go. While most information is given both in the country’s language and in English, it’s good to know the word for “delayed”—forsinket in Danish and Norwegian, and försenad in Swedish.
To study ahead online, check www.bahn.com (Germany’s excellent Europe-wide timetable). Local train companies also have their own sites with fare and timetable information, and even online booking in English; see www.dsb.dk or www.rejseplanen.dk (Denmark), www.nsb.no (Norway), www.sj.se (Sweden), www.vr.fi (Finland), and www.gorail.ee (Estonia).
Rail Passes: One of the great Nordic bargains, the Eurail Scandinavia pass is your best rail pass deal for a trip limited to Scandinavia. Although Eurail Scandinavia passes are available only for second-class seats, Scandinavian second class is plenty comfortable. Some trains, including those that cover part of the popular Norway in a Nutshell route (see here), do not offer first class. For options and prices, see the rail pass chart in this chapter and www.ricksteves.com/rail.
If your trip extends south of Scandinavia, consider the flexible Select Pass, which allows you to choose four adjacent countries connected by land or ferry (for instance, Germany-Denmark-Sweden-Finland). A more expensive Global Pass is a good value only for those spending more time traveling throughout Europe. A three-week first-class Global Pass costs about $950 (if you travel with a companion, you’ll save about 15 percent apiece with a Global saverpass).
Rail passes give you discounts on some boat tickets (such as Stockholm to Helsinki) and cover almost all trains in the region (though you’ll need 50-kr reservations for long rides and express trains, plus a 220-kr supplement for Norway’s Myrdal-Flåm ride—part of the Norway in a Nutshell route). If you’ll be taking a popular train on a busy day and want to be assured of having a seat, a reservation can be a good investment even if it’s not required.
For more detailed advice on figuring out the smartest rail pass options for your train trip, visit the Trains & Rail Passes section of my website at www.ricksteves.com/rail.
Don’t overlook long-distance buses, which are usually slower but have considerably cheaper and more predictable fares than trains. (In Denmark, however, the train system is excellent and nearly always the better option.) On certain routes, such as between Stockholm and Oslo, the bus is cheaper and only slightly slower than the train. Scandinavia’s big bus carriers are Norway’s Nor-Way Bussekspress (www.nor-way.no), Denmark’s public buses (www.rejseplanen.dk), Sweden’s Swebus (www.swebusexpress.se), and Finland’s Matkahuolto (www.matkahuolto.fi). Estonia has several carriers, of which Lux Express is the largest (www.luxexpress.ee).
Boats are romantic, scenic, and sometimes the most efficient—or only—way to link destinations in coastal Scandinavia. But boats can often be more expensive than other options, although some routes may be covered or discounted if you have a rail pass. Note that short-distance ferries may take only cash, not credit cards.
Advance reservations are recommended for overnight boats, especially in summer or on weekends. The main links are Oslo to Copenhagen (www.dfdsseaways.com), Stockholm to Helsinki (www.vikingline.fi and www.tallinksilja.com), and Stockholm to Tallinn (www.tallinksilja.com).
Several companies speed between Helsinki and Tallinn in 2-3 hours (see here). Other worthwhile routes connect Norway and Denmark (Kristiansand and Hirtshals several times daily, Stavanger and Hirtshals by overnight boat; see here, www.fjordline.com and www.colorline.com). Ferries are essential for hopping between the mainland and Scandinavia’s many islands, such as Ærø in central Denmark (drivers should reserve in advance for weekends and summer, www.aeroe-ferry.dk), or Stockholm’s archipelago. Boats are both a necessary and spectacular way to travel through Norway’s fjords or along its coast (www.fjordtours.no, www.fjord1.no, and www.tide.no). Bergen, in Norway, is a departure point for boats to the Arctic (www.hurtigruten.com).
The minimum age to rent a car varies by country and rental company (you must be 21 in Denmark and Estonia, and 19 in Sweden, Norway, and Finland). Drivers under the age of 25 may incur a young-driver surcharge, and some rental companies do not rent to anyone 75 and over. If you’re considered too young or old, look into leasing (covered later), which has less-stringent age restrictions.
Research car rentals before you go. It’s cheaper to arrange most car rentals from the US. Call several companies or look online to compare rates.
Most of the major US rental agencies (including Avis, Budget, Hertz, and Thrifty) have offices throughout Europe. Also consider the two major Europe-based agencies, Europcar and Sixt. It can be cheaper to use a consolidator, such as Auto Europe/Kemwel (www.autoeurope.com) or Europe by Car (www.europebycar.com), which compares rates at several companies to get you the best deal—but because you’re working with a middleman, it’s especially important to ask in advance about add-on fees and restrictions.
Regardless of the car-rental company you choose, always read the fine print carefully for add-on charges—such as expensive one-way drop-off fees, airport surcharges, or mandatory insurance policies—that aren’t included in the “total price.” You may need to query rental agents pointedly to find out your actual cost.
For the best deal, rent by the week with unlimited mileage. To save money on fuel, ask for a diesel car. I normally rent the smallest, least-expensive model with a stick shift (generally much cheaper than an automatic). Almost all rentals are manual by default, so if you need an automatic, you must request one in advance; be aware that these cars are usually larger models (not as maneuverable on narrow, winding roads).
Figure on paying about $300 for a one-week rental. Allow extra for supplemental insurance, fuel, tolls, and parking. For trips of three weeks or more, look into leasing; you’ll save money on insurance and taxes. Be warned that international trips—say, picking up in Copenhagen and dropping off in Oslo—can be expensive (it depends partly on distance).
As a rule, always tell your car-rental company up front exactly which countries you’ll be entering. Some companies levy extra insurance fees for trips taken in certain countries with certain types of cars (such as BMWs, Mercedes, and convertibles). Double-check with your rental agent that you have all the documentation you need before you drive off.
Big companies have offices in most cities; ask whether they can pick you up at your hotel. Small local rental companies can be cheaper but aren’t as flexible.
Compare pickup costs (downtown can be less expensive than the airport) and explore drop-off options. Always check the hours of the location you choose: Many rental offices close from midday Saturday until Monday morning and, in smaller towns, at lunchtime.
When selecting a location, don’t trust the agency’s description of “downtown” or “city center.” In some cases, a “downtown” branch can be on the outskirts of the city—a long, costly taxi ride from the center. Before choosing, plug the addresses into a mapping website. You may find that the “train station” location is handier. But returning a car at a big-city train station or downtown agency can be tricky; get precise details on the car drop-off location and hours, and allow ample time to find it.
When you pick up the rental car, check it thoroughly and make sure any damage is noted on your rental agreement. Find out how your car’s lights, turn signals, wipers, radio, and fuel cap function, and know what kind of fuel the car takes (diesel vs. unleaded). When you return the car, make sure the agent verifies its condition with you. Some drivers take pictures of the returned vehicle as proof of its condition.
In some cases, I prefer to connect long distances by train or bus, then rent cars for a day or two where they’re most useful (I’ve noted these places throughout this book).
When renting a car in Europe, you have several alternatives for your digital navigator: Use your smartphone’s online mapping app, download an offline map app, rent a GPS device with your rental car, or bring your own GPS device from home.
Online mapping apps used to be prohibitively expensive for overseas travelers—but that was before most carriers started offering affordable international data plans. If you’re already getting a data plan for your trip, this is probably the way to go (see “Using Your Smartphone in Europe,” earlier).
A number of well-designed apps allow you much of the convenience of online maps without any costly demands on your data plan. City Maps 2Go is one of the most popular of these; OffMaps, Google Maps, and Navfree also all offer good, zoomable offline maps for much of Europe (some are better for driving, while others are better for navigating cities).
Some drivers prefer using a dedicated GPS unit—not only to avoid the data-roaming fees, but because a stand-alone GPS can be easier to operate (important if you’re driving solo). The major downside: It’s expensive—around $10-30 per day. Your car’s GPS unit may only come loaded with maps for its home country—if you need additional maps, ask. Make sure your device’s language is set to English before you drive off. If you have a portable GPS device at home, you can take that instead. Many American GPS devices come loaded with US maps only—you’ll need to buy and download European maps before your trip. This option is far less expensive than renting.
When you rent a car, you are liable for a very high deductible, sometimes equal to the entire value of the car. Limit your financial risk with one of these options: Buy Collision Damage Waiver (CDW) coverage from the car-rental company, get coverage through your credit card (free, if your card automatically includes zero-deductible coverage), or get collision insurance as part of a larger travel-insurance policy.
CDW includes a very high deductible (typically $1,000-1,500). Though each rental company has its own variation, basic CDW costs $10-30 a day (figure roughly 30 percent extra) and reduces your liability, but does not eliminate it. When you pick up the car, you’ll be offered the chance to “buy down” the basic deductible to zero (for an additional $10-30/day; this is sometimes called “super CDW” or “zero-deductible coverage”).
If you opt for credit-card coverage, there’s a catch. You’ll technically have to decline all coverage offered by the car-rental company, which means they can place a hold on your card (which can be up to the full value of the car). In case of damage, it can be time-consuming to resolve the charges with your credit-card company. Before you decide on this option, quiz your credit-card company about how it works.
If you’re already purchasing a travel-insurance policy for your trip, adding collision coverage is an option. For example, Travel Guard (www.travelguard.com) sells affordable renter’s collision insurance as an add-on to its other policies; it’s valid everywhere in Europe except the Republic of Ireland, and some Italian car-rental companies refuse to honor it, as it doesn’t cover you in case of theft.
For more on car-rental insurance, see www.ricksteves.com/cdw.
For trips of three weeks or more, consider leasing (which automatically includes zero-deductible collision and theft insurance). By technically buying and then selling back the car, you save lots of money on tax and insurance. Leasing provides you a brand-new car with unlimited mileage and a 24-hour emergency assistance program. You can lease for as few as 21 days to as long as five and a half months. Car leases must be arranged from the US, and cars must be picked up and dropped off outside Scandinavia. One of many companies offering affordable lease packages is Europe by Car (www.europebycar.com).
Except for the dangers posed by scenic distractions and moose crossings, Scandinavia is a great place to drive. But never drink and drive—even one drink can get a driver into serious trouble.
Road Rules: Seat belts are mandatory, and children too small to be secure in seatbelts (generally, under 4.5 feet) need a child-safety seat. Be aware of typical European road rules; for example, many countries require headlights to be turned on at all times, and it’s generally illegal to drive while using your mobile phone without a hands-free headset. In Europe, you’re not allowed to turn right on a red light, unless there is a sign or signal specifically authorizing it, and on expressways it’s illegal to pass drivers on the right. Ask your car-rental company about these rules, or check the US State Department website (www.travel.state.gov; search for your country in the “Learn about your destination” box, then click on “Travel and Transportation”).
Fuel: Gas is expensive—often more than $8 per gallon. US credit and debit cards likely won’t work at pay-at-the-pump stations, but are generally accepted (with a PIN code) at staffed stations. Carry cash just in case. Diesel rental cars are common; make sure you know what type of fuel your car takes before you fill up.
On the Road: Roads are good (though nerve-rackingly skinny in western Norway). Bikes tend to whiz by close and quiet in cities, so be on guard. In the countryside, traffic is generally sparse, and drivers are civil. Signs and road maps are excellent. Local road etiquette is similar to that in the US. There are plenty of good facilities, gas stations, and scenic rest stops. Snow is a serious problem off-season in the mountains.
Tolls: You’ll encounter one-way tolls of €20-45 on major bridges including the Øresund Bridge between Sweden and Denmark, the Svinesund Bridge between Sweden and Norway, and the Storebælt Bridge between the Danish islands of Zealand and Funen. Cities such as Oslo, Bergen, and Stockholm charge tolls for entering the city center.
To minimize tolls in Norway, register as a visitor at www.autopass.no. By prepaying a lump sum with your credit card and specifying when you’ll be on the road, you won’t need to buy a sticker or pay manually at toll plazas; you can even register up to 14 days after you’ve driven through your first toll point. Any remaining balance will be credited back to your card three months later.
Parking: Parking on the street is a headache only in major cities, where expensive garages are safe and plentiful. Denmark uses a parking windshield-clock disk (free at TIs, post offices, and newsstands; set it when you arrive and be back before your posted time limit is up). Even in the Nordic countries, thieves break into cars. Park carefully, use the trunk, and show no valuables.
Signage: As you navigate, you’ll find town signs followed by the letters N, S, Ø (Ö in Sweden), V, or C. These stand for north (nord), south (syd), east (øst), west (vest), and center (centrum), respectively; understanding them will save you lots of wrong turns. Due to recent changes, some maps have the wrong road numbers. It’s safest to navigate by town names.
This book covers far-flung destinations separated by vast stretches of mountains and water. While boats and trains are more romantic, cheap flights can provide an affordable and efficient way to connect the dots on a Scandinavian itinerary.
The best comparison search engine for both international and intra-European flights is www.kayak.com. For inexpensive flights within Europe, try www.skyscanner.com or www.hipmunk.com; for inexpensive international flights, try www.vayama.com.
Flying to Europe: Start looking for international flights four to five months before your trip, especially for peak-season travel. Off-season tickets can be purchased a month or so in advance. Depending on your itinerary, it can be efficient to fly into one city and out of another. If your flight requires a connection in Europe, see our hints on navigating Europe’s top hub airports at www.ricksteves.com/hub-airports.
Flying within Europe: If you’re considering a train ride that’s more than five hours long, a flight may save you both time and money. When comparing your options, factor in the time it takes to get to the airport and how early you’ll need to arrive to check in.
SAS, the region’s dominant airline, operates a low-cost Finnish subsidiary called Blue1 (hubs in Helsinki and Stockholm, www.blue1.com) and is affiliated with Oslo-based Widerøe Air (www.wideroe.no). Other options are Norwegian Airlines (hubs in Oslo and Bergen, www.norwegian.no); the Denmark-based Cimber Sterling (specializes in connecting Scandinavian capitals such as Oslo and Copenhagen with sunny destinations in southern Europe, www.cimber.com); and Tallinn-based Estonian Air (www.estonian-air.com). Well-known cheapo airlines easyJet (www.easyjet.com) and Ryanair (www.ryanair.com) fly into Scandinavia.
Be aware of the potential drawbacks of flying on the cheap: nonrefundable and nonchangeable tickets, minimal or nonexistent customer service, treks to airports far outside town, and stingy baggage allowances with steep overage fees. If you’re traveling with lots of luggage, a cheap flight can quickly become a bad deal. To avoid unpleasant surprises, read the small print before you book.
Rick Steves Scandinavia is one of many books in my series on European travel, which includes country guidebooks, city guidebooks (Rome, Florence, Paris, London, etc.), Snapshot guides (excerpted chapters from my country guides), Pocket Guides (full-color little books on big cities), and my budget-travel skills handbook, Rick Steves Europe Through the Back Door. Most of my titles are available as ebooks. My phrase books—for German, French, Italian, Spanish, and Portuguese—are practical and budget-oriented. My other books include Northern European Cruise Ports and Mediterranean Cruise Ports (how to make the most of your time in port), Europe 101 (a crash course on art and history designed for travelers), and Travel as a Political Act (a travelogue sprinkled with advice for bringing home a global perspective). A more complete list of my titles appears near the end of this book.
Video: My public television series, Rick Steves’ Europe, covers European destinations in 100 shows, with six episodes on Scandinavia. To watch full episodes online for free, see www.ricksteves.com/tv. Or to raise your travel I.Q. with video versions of our popular classes, such as Northern European Cruise Ports, see www.ricksteves.com/travel-talks.
Audio: My weekly public radio show, Travel with Rick Steves, features interviews with travel experts from around the world. All of this audio content is available for free at Rick Steves Audio Europe, an extensive online library organized by destination. Choose whatever interests you, and download it via the free Rick Steves Audio Europe app, www.ricksteves.com/audioeurope, iTunes, or Google Play.
The black-and-white maps in this book are concise and simple, designed to help you locate recommended places and get to local TIs, where you can pick up more in-depth maps of cities and regions (usually free). Better maps are sold at newsstands and bookstores. Before you buy a map, look at it to be sure it has the level of detail you want. Map apps for your smartphone or tablet are also handy (see “Navigation Options,” earlier).
Train travelers can use a simple rail map (such as the one that comes with your train pass). But drivers shouldn’t skimp on maps—get one good overall road map for Scandinavia (either the Michelin Scandinavia or the Kummerly & Frey Southern Scandinavia 1:1,000,000 edition). The Collins Road Atlas is also good. The only detailed map worth considering is the Southern Norway-North (Sør Norge-nord, 1:325,000) by Cappelens Kart (about €30 in Scandinavian bookstores).
To learn about Scandinavia past and present, check out a few of these books and films.
A History of Scandinavia: Norway, Sweden, Denmark, Finland, and Iceland (T. K. Derry, 1979). This comprehensive tome weaves together the history of these five countries.
Scandinavia Since 1500 (Byron J. Nordstrom, 2000). Nordstrom presents a readable account of the region’s history.
Scandinavian Folk and Fairy Tales (Claire Booss, 1988). This collection of Scandinavian folklore includes illustrations by local artists.
The Vikings (Else Roesdahl, 1987). Roesdahl offers a Scandinavian perspective on this complex Nordic society.
Conquered, Not Defeated (Peter Tveskov, 2003). Tveskov combines historical fact with childhood memories of Denmark under German occupation in World War II.
The Fairy Tale of My Life (Hans Christian Andersen, 1975). Andersen’s autobiography chronicles everything from his impoverished childhood to encounters with other literary greats.
Hans Christian Andersen: A New Life (Jens Andersen, 2003). The author reveals new dimensions to the man behind many famous childhood stories.
The Little Mermaid (Hans Christian Andersen, 1837). This charming story about a mermaid selling her soul to become a human doesn’t end quite as happily in Andersen’s original tale as it does in Disney’s world. Other beloved stories by the Danish-born Andersen include The Little Match Girl, The Princess and the Pea, and The Steadfast Tin Soldier.
Music and Silence (Rose Tremain, 1999). Tremain captures Denmark in the 17th century through the eyes of a lute player at court.
Smilla’s Sense of Snow (Peter Høeg, 1992). In this thriller set in snowy Copenhagen, Smilla looks into the murder of her six-year-old neighbor (later adapted as a 1997 movie starring Julia Ormond).
We, the Drowned (Carsten Jensen, 2010). This novel covers the wars and adventures of the seafaring men of the port town of Marstel—and the angst of the families they leave behind.
Winter’s Tale (Isak Dinesen, 1942). Best known for her memoir Out of Africa, Isak Dinesen (a.k.a. Karen Blixen) set most of these short stories in her homeland of Denmark.
Babette’s Feast (1987). This Oscar winner for Best Foreign Language Film, about a Frenchwoman taking refuge in rural 19th-century Denmark, is the original foodie movie (based on the novel by Isak Dinesen).
Borgen (2010-). In this dramatic political TV series, principal character Birgitte Nyborg juggles her ambitions as the first female prime minister of Denmark with her responsibilities as a wife and mother.
The Bridge (Danish: Broen; Swedish: Bron; 2011-). This crime drama, a coproduction of Swedish and Danish TV, follows the cases and personal lives of a brilliant but obsessive-compulsive Swedish detective and her empathetic Danish collaborator.
Italian for Beginners (2000). Thirtysomethings learn Italian in hopes of finding romance in a small Danish town.
Pelle the Conqueror (1988). A Swedish father and son emigrate to Denmark in the 19th century and work to build a new life in this film based on the 1976 book by Martin Andersen Nexø (winner of the 1989 Oscar for Best Foreign Language Film).
The Czar’s Madman (Jaan Kross, 1992). Accused of insanity, a nobleman from the Livonian region of Estonia is subsequently monitored and scrutinized by his family.
Treading Air (Jaan Kross, 1998). This novel follows the life of protagonist Ullo Paerand, from the 1920s through the Soviet occupation of Estonia.
Truth and Justice (Anton Hansen Tammsaare, 1926). In one of the cornerstones of Estonian literature, Tammsaare draws from his own life to describe Estonia’s evolution into an independent state.
Autumn Ball (2007). Based on the novel by Mati Unt, this film explores the isolation of six disparate people living in a Soviet-era apartment complex.
The Singing Revolution (2006). This documentary follows the evolution of Estonian music as a form of peaceful protest and symbol of patriotism.
Spring (1969). Set in a small town boarding school, this coming-of-age story is an Estonian classic.
Tangerines (2013). In this Golden Globe-nominated film, a man in a small village must care for wounded victims during the 1992 war in Abkhazik, Georgia.
The Adventurer (Mika Waltari, 1950). An orphan drifts through historical events in Europe during the Middle Ages.
Kalevala (Elias Lönnrot, 1835). Regarded as Finland’s national epic, Kalevala is a compilation of Karelian and Finnish oral folklore and poetry.
My Childhood (Toivo Pekkanen, 1966). Toivo Pekkanen chronicles his family’s working-class life in early-20th-century Finland.
Purge (Sofi Oksanen, 2010). Finnish author Sofi Oskanen explores the Soviet occupation of Estonia and postwar suffering in this powerful novel about two women who reconcile their violent pasts.
Seven Brothers (Aleksis Kivi, 1870). In this Finnish classic, young brothers must learn to work hard and become productive members of society.
The Unknown Soldier (Väinö Linna, 1957). This iconic Finnish book candidly captures native soldiers’ responses to World War II by delving into each character’s psyche.
Hellsinki (2009). Two criminals get caught up in a neighborhood black-market liquor business in 1960s Finland.
The Man Without a Past (2002). In this Academy Award-nominated film, a man is beaten up shortly after arriving in Helsinki, loses his memory, and must start his life anew.
Mother of Mine (2005). A young Finnish boy is evacuated to Sweden during World War II.
Road North (2012). An estranged father and son reunite for a road trip to northern Finland.
Uuno Turhapuro (1973-2006). Many Finnish politicians and celebrities make appearances throughout these 19 classic Finnish comedies about good-for-nothing Uuno, who disrupts and undermines his father-in-law in outlandish situations.
Beatles (Lars Saabye Christensen, 1984). Four Beatles fans grow up in Oslo in the ’60s and ’70s.
A Doll’s House (Henrik Ibsen, 1879). Ibsen’s controversial play questions marriage norms and the role of women in a 19th-century man’s world. (Ibsen explores similar themes in Hedda Gabler.)
Growth of the Soil (Knut Hamsun, 1917). This epic tale of a man living in back-country Norway won the Nobel Prize in Literature.
The Ice Palace (Tarjei Vesaas, 1993). Two young girls become unlikely friends—until a tragic disappearance shatters one of their lives.
Into the Ice: The History of Norway and the Polar Regions (Einar-Arne Drivenes and Harald Day Jolle, 2006). This comprehensive overview details expeditions, research, and the history of the polar region from the 19th century to the present.
Kon-Tiki (Thor Heyerdahl, 1948). Heyerdahl chronicles his historic 1947 journey from Peru to Polynesia on a balsa-wood raft. Norwegian filmmakers have catalogued his exploits in two films called Kon-Tiki: an Academy-Award-winning documentary (1950) and a blockbuster historical drama that was nominated for an Oscar for Best Foreign Language Film (2012).
Kristin Lavransdatter (Sigrid Undset, 1920-1923). This trilogy (also a 1995 movie) focuses on the life of a Norwegian woman in the 14th century.
My Struggle (Karl Ove Knausgaard, 2012). This six-part autobiography of a father and writer from Oslo is hugely popular in Norway and is quickly gaining worldwide recognition.
Out Stealing Horses (Per Patterson, 2005). A widower in remote Norway meets a neighbor who stirs up memories of a pivotal day in 1948.
Sophie’s World (Jostein Gaarder, 1994). A 14-year-old Norwegian girl becomes embroiled in a metaphysical mystery wrapped in the history of philosophy.
Cool & Crazy (2001). In this uplifting documentary, a group of Norwegian men find companionship and success when they join an all-male choir.
Elling (2001). After his mother passes away, an autistic man—with a new oddball roommate—struggles to function in society.
Insomnia (1997). The midnight sun plays a role in this Norwegian thriller about a police detective investigating a small-town murder.
The Kautokeino Rebellion (2008). Based on the true events of 1852, the Sami people of Norway revolt against their exploitation by Norwegian authorities.
Lilyhammer (2012-). This Netflix original series follows a Sopranos-style New York mobster who, under the witness protection program, relocates to Lillehammer and must adjust to Norwegian living.
Max Manus (2008). Based on real events in the life of WWII resistance fighter Max Manus, this film traces the exploits of Manus and his comrades in Oslo during the Nazi occupation of Norway.
Pathfinder (1987). Around 1000 A.D., a boy in Lapland must survive and fight against other Norse tribes.
Song of Norway (1970). This musical is based on the life of Norwegian composer Edvard Grieg.
Trollhunter (2010). Trolls wreak havoc in modern-day Norway in this fun fantasy/thriller that explains the real purpose of those power lines in the Norwegian mountains.
Vikings (2013-). This History Channel series centers on the adventures of mythological Viking Ragnar Lothbrok as he rises to become one of the most renowned Norse heroes.
Faceless Killers (Henning Mankell, 1990). This is the first of 10 mysteries featuring inspector Kurt Wallander.
The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo (Stieg Larsson, 2005). The first book in Larsson’s Millennium trilogy, about a punky computer hacker and a disgraced journalist, put Swedish crime fiction on the map. The Swedish film versions of these books (with Noomi Rapace as Lisbeth) are as compelling as the novels. Hollywood released its own version of The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo in 2011, starring Daniel Craig and Rooney Mara.
Hanna’s Daughters (Marianne Fredriksson, 1994). This moving novel follows the lives of three remarkable Swedish women from the 1870s through World War II.
Pippi Longstocking (Astrid Lindgren, 1945). Kids of all ages love reading about the adventures of the strong-willed and unconventional nine-year-old living in Sweden.
The Red Room (August Strindberg, 1879). This biting satire on Stockholm society made Strindberg a literary giant.
Sweden: The Nation’s History (Franklin D. Scott, 1988). Scott provides a comprehensive overview of the history of the Swedish people from feudalism to democracy.
The Wonderful Adventures of Nils (Selma Lagerlöf, 1906). In this fantastical children’s novel (winner of the Nobel Prize for Literature), Nils loves nothing more than eating, sleeping, and tormenting animals—at least until he is shrunken down to their size.
As It Is in Heaven (2004). A famous conductor returns to his village in Sweden, where he finds love and the key to happiness.
Dalecarlians (2005). After living in Stockholm, Mia returns home to her small village and must adjust to the life she left behind.
The Emigrants (1971). A Swedish family faces a rough transition as they move from Sweden to Minnesota in this film starring Max von Sydow and Liv Ullmann (based on the novels by Vilhelm Moberg). The sequel The New Land (1972) continues the family’s journey.
Let the Right One In (2008). In this Swedish romantic horror film, a lonely boy finds friendship with a vampire girl.
My Life as a Dog (1985). This bittersweet tale from director Lasse Hallström focuses on a young boy in 1950s Sweden.
The Seventh Seal (1957). In this Ingmar Bergman film (set in Sweden during the Black Death), a knight questions the meaning of life. Other masterpieces from the Oscar-winning Swedish director include Smiles of a Summer Night (1955), a turn-of-the-century frolic, and Fanny & Alexander (1983), about two children overcoming their father’s death.
Together (2000). This satirical view of socialist values is set in a 1970s Stockholm commune.
Wallander (2005-2013). Based on the characters in Henning Mankell’s Kurt Wallander detective novels, this Swedish crime series is a study in the Scandinavian temperament and culture.
Welcome to Sweden (2014-). In this NBC comedy series starring Greg Poehler (who coproduces the show with his sister Amy), an American accountant follows his girlfriend back to her home in Stockholm, where he embarks on crazy adventures with her quirky family.