Pasta

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Popular legend would have us believe that Marco Polo was responsible for carrying the idea of noodles back with him from China to Italy, but in actuality some form of pasta was being eaten in both places before Polo even set out on his voyage in 1271.

Whatever its history, pasta is loved today by children and adults alike and, fortunately, is very healthy, economical, and easy to prepare: You make the sauce or broth, cook the pasta, put the two together, and dinner (or lunch) falls neatly into place.

Some people still think of pasta as a plate of spaghetti with tomato sauce, a couple of meatballs, and a sprinkling of Parmesan cheese. But pasta possibilities are much more varied. This chapter covers the basics, like tomato sauce, lasagna, and macaroni casserole, and also explores more adventuresome dishes like penne with tuna, tomatoes, and roasted peppers; Asian noodles with chicken and ham; cold peanut noodles; and tortellini salad.



Pasta Primer

Pasta comes in many sizes, shapes, even colors; there are cords, tubes, ribbons, and special shapes like shells, wheels, and even butterflies. Two pastas, ravioli and tortellini, have fillings. When marrying sauce to pasta keep in mind a simple rule: the longer the pasta, the thinner the sauce. That means, use light sauces for delicate pastas like angel hair and chunky, heavier sauces for sturdy pastas like fusilli. One exception is fettuccine, which works best with thick cream sauces. Cooking times depend not on the size or length of the pasta, but on its thickness.

The print edition of this book includes a chart for Pasta Primer.
Please download a PDF of this chart here:
workman.com/ebookdownloads

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Pasta Sauce Primer

Don’t be put off by the complexity of some pasta sauces. Quite simply all Italian sauces use either cream, tomatoes, or oil as their base. Cream sauces are cooked in a frying pan for a short amount of time. The cream is added last and reduced to the desired thickness. Tomato sauces are usually cooked in a large pot and allowed to simmer for at least an hour to thicken and enhance the flavor. Sauces using fresh tomatoes, however, are more often made quickly in a frying pan. The tomatoes are sautéed along with other fresh ingredients like basil and onions. Oil-based sauces are the fastest sauces, usually requiring only a quick sauté of the main ingredients in a frying pan with enough olive oil to coat the pasta.

Below is a quick reference guide for sauces. Those included in Dad’s Own Cookbook are noted with stars. Others can be found in any number of Italian or pasta cookbooks. Most recipes use sautéed onions and garlic as prime ingredients.

The print edition of this book includes charts for Pasta Sauce Primer.
Please download a PDF of the charts here:
workman.com/ebookdownloads

Cream Sauces

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Tomato-Based Sauces

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Oil-Based Sauces

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Basic Tomato Sauce

This tomato sauce can be used on its own or as the foundation for many different sauces.

Ingredients (makes 2½ quarts, enough for 5–6 pounds spaghetti)

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 large onion, finely chopped

2 ribs celery, finely chopped

2 large carrots, finely chopped

1 green bell pepper, seeded and diced

2 cloves garlic, minced

½ cup red or white wine

2 28-ounce cans crushed Italian plum tomatoes

1 6-ounce can tomato paste

3 tablespoons chopped fresh basil or 2 teaspoons dried

3 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

2 teaspoons dried oregano

1 tablespoon salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Equipment

Large, heavy pot with cover

1. Place a large pot on medium-high heat and let it get hot, about 45 seconds. Add the olive oil and the onion, celery, carrots, and bell pepper. Sauté, stirring often, until the vegetables are soft, about 10 minutes.

2. Add the garlic. Stir and cook for 1 minute more.

3. Increase the heat to high, add the wine, and cook until the liquid is reduced by half. Stir in the tomatoes, tomato paste, 2 cups water, and the basil, parsley, oregano, salt, and pepper to taste.

4. When the sauce begins to bubble, turn the heat down to low, cover the pot halfway, and let the sauce simmer, stirring occasionally for at least 45 minutes, until it begins to thicken. Longer cooking time makes for a thicker, more intensely flavored sauce.

Tip

The flavor of tomato sauce will intensify if you let it sit for a day. If you have the time, make it a day ahead and refrigerate. Tomato sauce also freezes well. With this amount of sauce, you can freeze half of it. Let the sauce cool before either refrigerating or storing in well-sealed plastic containers in the freezer. Freeze the sauce in 2- or 3-cup containers so you can defrost only what you need for each meal.

Variations

With meat: Brown 1 pound chopped beef, veal, or a combination of the two in a frying pan over high heat for 5–6 minutes. Transfer the meat to a colander to let the fat drain off. Add the meat to the sauce when you add the crushed tomatoes.

With sausage: Brown ½ pound sweet Italian sausage meat in a frying pan over high heat for 5–6 minutes breaking it up into small chunks as it cooks. Transfer the meat to a colander to let the fat drain off. Add the sausage to the sauce when you add the crushed tomatoes. Sausage can also be used in combination with ground beef.

With mushrooms: Thinly slice ¾ pound white or wild mushrooms or a combination of the two. Sauté these with the other vegetables.

Puttanesca: Coarsely chop any 3 or more of the following: 4 anchovy fillets, 2 tablespoons capers, 1 can tuna in oil (drained), a dozen pitted black olives, 1 4-ounce jar roasted Italian red peppers (drained), and 1 4-ounce jar artichoke hearts (drained). Add to the sauce when you add the crushed tomatoes.

Meatballs

These are the Titleists of meatballs. You can freeze half the batch and still feed a foursome with what’s left.

Ingredients (makes 24 meatballs)

3 slices bread, crusts trimmed, broken into pieces

½ cup whole milk

2 pounds ground beef, or 1 pound ground beef and 1 pound ground veal

½ pound sweet Italian sausage meat, removed from casing

3½ cups Basic Tomato Sauce (opposite page) or your favorite store-bought sauce

2 large eggs

¼ cup grated Parmesan

1 teaspoon dried oregano

1 teaspoon dried basil

3 tablespoons olive oil

Equipment

12 x 16-inch casserole

Medium bowl

Large bowl

Large frying pan

Aluminum foil

1. Preheat the oven to 375°F. Lightly grease a 12 x 16-inch casserole with vegetable oil.

2. Put the bread in a medium bowl, pour in the milk, and let sit for 1 minute.

3. In a large bowl, combine the meats, the bread mixture, ½ cup of the tomato sauce, the eggs, cheese, oregano, and basil, using your hands if necessary.

4. Shape the meat mixture into 1½-inch balls by rolling them between your palms. Arrange the balls on a large platter or baking sheet.

5. Measure 1½ tablespoons of the oil into a large frying pan and place over medium-high heat for about 1 minute. Add half the meatballs and cook until brown on all sides, turning as needed, about 5 minutes.

6. Transfer the cooked meatballs to the prepared casserole and repeat with the remaining oil and meatballs. When all the meatballs are browned, pour the remaining 3 cups tomato sauce into the casserole and stir briefly so that all the meatballs are coated.

7. Cover the casserole dish with aluminum foil and bake for 30 minutes until the meatballs are firm and cooked through. Remove the foil and bake for 15 minutes more.

Tips

• Meatballs can be made a day in advance and refrigerated.

• To reheat, place the meatballs in a large saucepan with ½ cup tomato sauce and heat slowly on medium low for 12–15 minutes.

• Cool the meatballs completely before freezing in a tightly sealed plastic container. Place a layer of plastic wrap directly on the meatballs to protect them against freezer burn. Defrost the meatballs in the refrigerator for 24 hours.

Dad’s Own No-Boil Lasagna

Every time I make lasagna this way (without cooking the lasagna noodles first) I’m convinced it’s not going to work. But it always comes out perfectly. Since it’s both easy to make and a meal that nearly every kid loves, there’s no reason not to double the ingredients and make two pans at once. Serve one for dinner and store the other in the freezer.

Ingredients (serves six)

1 pound ground beef

½ pound sweet Italian sausage, removed from its casing and broken into small chunks

5 cups Basic Tomato Sauce (page 182) or your favorite store-bought sauce

2 6-ounce packages frozen chopped spinach

24 ounces ricotta cheese

2 extra-large eggs

½ cup grated Parmesan

1 tablespoon salt

Olive oil or butter, for greasing the pan

1 pound lasagna noodles

1 pound mozzarella, thinly sliced or grated

Equipment

9 x 13-inch baking pan (see Tips)

Large frying pan

Colander

Medium saucepan

2 large bowls

Aluminum foil

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F.

2. Place a large frying pan on high heat and let it get very hot, about 45 seconds. Add the ground beef and sausage and brown, stirring frequently, until all the meat is cooked through. Transfer the meat to a colander and let the fat drain. Then transfer the meat to a large bowl, add the tomato sauce, and stir to combine.

3. In a medium saucepan over medium-high heat, cook the spinach in enough boiling water to cover, until cooked through, about 5 minutes. (The spinach can also be cooked in the microwave; see page 142). Transfer the spinach to a colander and rinse with cold water. Squeeze small clumps of spinach between your hands until the water is thoroughly extracted.

4. Transfer the spinach to a large bowl. Add the ricotta, eggs, ¼ cup of the Parmesan, and the salt, and mix well.

5. Lightly oil or butter a 9 x 13-inch baking pan. Spoon in just enough meat sauce to thickly cover the bottom. Cover the sauce with a layer of pasta, laying the strips lengthwise, side-by-side, and up to the edges of the pan.

6. Cover the pasta with ¼ of the remaining sauce and top with half the mozzarella. Cover the mozzarella with a second layer of pasta and spread the pasta with of the remaining sauce.

7. Spread on all of the spinach-ricotta mixture in an even layer and cover it with a third layer of pasta.

8. Spread on ½ of the remaining sauce and top with the remaining mozzarella. Arrange a fourth layer of pasta and cover with a final layer of sauce. Sprinkle on the remaining ¼ cup Parmesan.

9. Cover the pan securely with aluminum foil and bake about 50 minutes, until the cheese melts and the noodles are cooked through.

10. Remove the lasagna from the oven and let rest for 5 minutes before serving.

Time-Saver

The meat sauce and the spinach-ricotta mixture can be prepared a day in advance, sealed in plastic wrap, and refrigerated.

Tips

• To freeze lasagna, let it cool, then wrap tightly in plastic wrap and cover with aluminum foil. If you plan to freeze lasagna, bake it in a disposable aluminum pan so you won’t tie up one of your best baking pans in the freezer.

• To reheat a whole pan of frozen lasagna, unwrap it and place in a preheated 325°F oven for 30 minutes. Raise the temperature to 350°F and cook until heated through, about 20 minutes more. Cover the top of the lasagna with aluminum foil for the last 10 minutes of cooking so it won’t dry out.

• Refrigerated leftover lasagna is best reheated in the microwave, which keeps it moist. Place a portion of lasagna on a plate and cover with plastic wrap. Reheat on medium high—4 minutes for 1 portion, 6 minutes for 2, 8 minutes for 4. Otherwise, spread a couple of tablespoons of tomato sauce on the bottom of a small casserole and lay the cold lasagna over the sauce. Cover the pan and heat in a 300°F oven until heated through, about 12–15 minutes.

Never-Fail Macaroni Casserole

While not the most elegant of meals, this easy casserole is high on the list of children’s favorites.

Ingredients (serves four)

1 package #7 macaroni

8- to 10-ounces extra-sharp cheddar cheese

1 28-ounce can crushed tomatoes

¼ cup seasoned bread crumbs

1 tablespoon butter, cut into small pieces

Freshly ground black pepper

Equipment

Pasta pot

2-quart casserole

Colander

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Lightly grease the casserole with margarine or vegetable oil.

2. Bring a large pot of water to a boil for the pasta. Cook the macaroni until al dente, about 7–9 minutes, then drain it well in a colander.

3. While the pasta is cooking, cut the cheese into thin slices.

4. Layer of the cooked macaroni in the bottom of the casserole dish. Add of the cheese slices followed by of the tomato sauce. Repeat the layering 2 more times. Add pepper to each layer. Sprinkle with the bread crumbs and dot with the butter.

5. Bake for 45 minutes, until lightly browned.



Eight Steps To Pasta Heaven

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1. The Big Pot

Use at least a 6-quart pot when cooking pasta.

2. The Water

One pound of pasta needs to cook in at least 4 quarts of rapidly boiling water. Less water will not allow the individual pieces of pasta to float freely, causing them to stick together. Bring the water to a fast rolling boil before adding the pasta.

3. The Oil

Add 1 tablespoon oil to the water. This helps prevent the pasta from sticking together.

4. The Salt

Add 1 teaspoon salt to the boiling water. This helps bring out the flavor of the pasta.

5. The Pasta

Add the pasta to the pot in a slow, steady stream. This will help keep the pieces separate and the water boiling. Push down strands of spaghetti as they soften. Once all the pasta is in the pot, stir quickly to keep it from sticking. Stirring occasionally during cooking helps keep thicker pasta, like ziti or lasagna, from sticking to the bottom.

6. The Timing

Dried Pasta: Begin timing the pasta when the water returns to a boil. Check the pasta about 1 minute before the time specified by the manufacturer by lifting a few strands or pieces from the pot, letting them cool a few seconds, then taking a bite. If the pasta is not yet done, continue cooking it and test every 30 seconds or so. Pasta should not be overcooked, it should be al dente (“to the tooth”)—tender but firm.

Fresh: Fresh pastas cook in a fraction of the time necessary for dried pastas. Begin timing as soon as the pasta is in the water. Check the pasta at the prescribed time. If it’s not ready, check it again every 15 seconds or so.

7. The Draining

Drain the pasta in a large, stable colander set in the sink. Using pot holders, shake the colander vigorously to release any remaining water. Transfer to a bowl and toss with 1 tablespoon olive oil to keep the pasta separate. Some recipes recommend draining pasta in cold water, which stops the cooking process. I recommend doing this only when the pasta is going to be served cold.

8. The Serving

Pasta needs to get to the table fast as it cools quickly (even when it’s not rinsed in cold water). Immediately after the pasta is drained, transfer it to the serving bowl or individual plates. Quickly pour on enough hot sauce to coat lightly, but not smother the pasta, then toss to combine. If serving on individual plates, you might want to put some sauce on the plate first, add pasta, then put more sauce on top.

Reheating

Place pasta in a heatproof bowl, add enough boiling water to cover pasta, let stand for 1 minute, and drain well.


Fettuccine with Tomato, Sausage & Basil

This dish is best when made with fresh pasta and fresh basil.

Ingredients (serves four)

1 pound fresh fettuccine or ¾ pound dried

2 28-ounce cans Italian plum tomatoes, drained and coarsely chopped

½ cup fresh basil leaves, torn into pieces, or 2 tablespoons dried

1 tablespoon olive oil plus additional olive oil for tossing the pasta

½ pound sweet Italian sausage, cut into ½-inch pieces

2 cloves garlic, minced

Salt and pepper

Grated Parmesan, for serving

Equipment

Pasta pot

Large frying pan

Colander

1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil for the pasta. Add the pasta and cook until al dente. Drain in a colander and toss with some olive oil.

2. While the pasta water is coming to a boil and the pasta is cooking, heat the 1 tablespoon olive oil in a large frying pan on medium-high heat, about 1 minute. Add the sausage and cook thoroughly, about 4 minutes. Pour out any excess fat. Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute longer.

3. Add the tomatoes and the fresh or dried basil, and cook until the sauce begins to bubble. Reduce the heat to medium low and cook, stirring often, until the sauce begins to thicken, about 5 minutes. Add salt and pepper to taste. Turn off the heat and let the sauce sit, covered, until the pasta is cooked.

4. Divide the pasta among 4 dinner plates and top with the sauce. Sprinkle with grated Parmesan before serving.

Seafood Linguine

The assortment of seafood makes this an especially tasty and enticing dish.

Ingredients (serves four)

12 ounces linguine

2 tablespoons olive oil

½ pound medium shrimp, peeled and deveined (see page 117)

½ pound bay scallops (see Notes)

½ pound bluefish, cut into 1-inch chunks (see Notes)

1 7-ounce can minced clams, drained

3 cups Basic Tomato Sauce (page 182) or your favorite store-bought sauce

1 6-ounce package frozen peas

Grated Parmesan, for serving

Equipment

Pasta pot

Large frying pan with cover

Colander

1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil for the pasta. When the water boils, add the linguine and cook until al dente, about 7 minutes, then drain well in a colander.

2. While the pasta water is coming to a boil and the pasta is cooking, place a large frying pan on high heat and let it get hot, about 45 seconds. Add the oil and all the shrimp, scallops, and bluefish. Sauté, stirring and turning often, until the shrimp turns pink, about 4 minutes.

3. Add the clams and tomato sauce, bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium. Add the peas, cover, and cook for another 3 minutes, until the peas are cooked through. Let the sauce sit, covered, until the pasta is done.

4. Divide the pasta among 4 dinner plates, spoon on the sauce, and sprinkle with Parmesan.

Notes

• If bluefish isn’t available, use any fatty fish, such as swordfish, tuna, cod, or mackerel.

• If bay scallops are unavailable, the larger sea scallops can be used instead. If very large, cut sea scallops in half.

Penne with Tuna, Tomatoes & Roasted Peppers

This is a hearty, rustic sauce that can be put together quickly.

Ingredients (serves four)

¾ pound penne

1 7-ounce can solid white tuna in oil

1 4-ounce jar roasted red peppers, drained and thinly sliced

1 6-ounce jar artichoke hearts, drained and quartered

2 tablespoons olive oil, plus additional oil for tossing the pasta

2 shallots, finely chopped

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 28-ounce can whole Italian plum tomatoes, drained

1 cup frozen peas

3 tablespoons fresh parsley, chopped

1 teaspoon salt

Freshly ground pepper

Equipment

Pasta pot

Large frying pan

Small bowl

Serving bowl

Colander

Wooden spoon

1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil for the pasta. When the water boils, add the penne and cook until al dente, about 7–9 minutes. Drain well in a colander and toss with olive oil.

2. While the pasta water is coming to a boil and the pasta is cooking, drain the tuna, transfer it to a small bowl, and coarsely flake with a fork. Add the roasted peppers and artichokes, mix together, and set aside.

3. Place a large frying pan on medium heat and let it get hot, about 45 seconds. Add the 2 tablespoons olive oil and the shallots and sauté, stirring frequently, until the shallots are soft, about 3 minutes. Add the garlic and sauté for 1 minute more.

4. Raise the heat to high and add the tomatoes, peas, and tuna mixture. Break up the tomatoes with a wooden spoon and cook the sauce until it begins to bubble.

5. Reduce the heat to medium, add the parsley, and season with salt and pepper. Continue cooking for 3 more minutes, stirring frequently, until the sauce thickens slightly. Remove the pan from the heat and keep it covered until the pasta is cooked.

6. Transfer the pasta to a serving bowl. Pour the sauce over the pasta, toss, and serve.

Spaghetti Carbonara

Spaghetti carbonara is actually not a traditional Italian dish. It was improvised using the American food supplies—bacon, eggs, and cheese—flown into Italy after World War II.

Ingredients (serves four)

12 ounces spaghetti

¼ pound pancetta (Italian bacon), slab bacon, or regular sliced bacon

¼ cup white wine (optional)

Yolks of 4 large eggs

cup grated Parmesan

Equipment

Pasta pot

Large frying pan

Medium bowl

Colander

Whisk

2 large mixing spoons

1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil for the pasta. When the water comes to a boil, cook the pasta until al dente, about 7 minutes, then drain well in a colander.

2. While the pasta water is coming to a boil and the pasta is cooking, cut the pancetta or bacon slices into ½-inch pieces.

3. Place a large frying pan on medium heat and let it get hot, about 45 seconds. Add the pancetta or bacon pieces and sauté until cooked through, about 5 minutes. If using wine, drain off the fat, add the wine to the meat, and heat 1 minute longer. If not using wine, turn off the heat, leaving the meat and fat in the pan.

4. Whisk the egg yolks well in a medium bowl. Then stir in half the Parmesan until well combined. Set aside.

5. When the spaghetti is ready, return the frying pan to medium heat for 30 seconds, then add the drained spaghetti to the pan. Using 2 large mixing spoons, combine the pasta with the bacon slices.

6. Remove the frying pan from the heat. Immediately pour the egg mixture over the spaghetti and stir quickly until all the strands are coated. (The heat of the pasta will cook the egg and thicken the sauce.)

7. Serve the pasta immediately, topped with the remaining Parmesan.

Empty Cupboard Pasta

The first time you prepare this dish it may be out of desperation, but after that the kids may start requesting it regularly.

Ingredients (serves four)

12 ounces spaghetti or macaroni

3 tablespoons butter, cut into small pieces

cup grated Parmesan

1 teaspoon dried basil, oregano, or parsley

Freshly ground black pepper

Equipment

Pasta pot

Colander

1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. When the water comes to a boil, cook the pasta until al dente, about 7 minutes for spaghetti, 9 minutes for macaroni. Drain well in a colander and transfer to a serving bowl.

2. Immediately add the butter and Parmesan to the pasta; toss until well coated.

3. Sprinkle on the herbs and freshly ground black pepper. Serve immediately.

Cold Tortellini Salad

Most pasta salads leave me cold, but this one, with its earthy flavors and colors, has a lot of punch. It requires a bit of chopping, but the time is well spent.

Ingredients (serves six)

1 pint cherry tomatoes, cut in half

3 scallions, coarsely chopped, cut in half

½ cup (4 ounces) sun-dried tomatoes packed in oil, drained and coarsely chopped

1 6-ounce jar artichoke hearts packed in oil, quartered

1 4-ounce jar roasted peppers, drained and coarsely chopped

1 whole clove garlic

½ cup chopped fresh basil, or 1 tablespoon dried

1 teaspoon dried oregano

¼ cup olive oil

1 pound fresh tortellini (see Tip)

¼ pound sliced prosciutto, cut into 2-inch pieces

½ pound mozzarella, coarsely grated

Salt and pepper

Equipment

Pasta pot

Medium bowl

Large bowl

Colander

1. Place the cherry tomatoes, scallions, sun-dried tomatoes, artichokes, roasted peppers, garlic, basil, and oregano in a medium bowl. Add the olive oil and mix gently to coat

everything with oil. Refrigerate the mixture for 2 hours.

2. Bring a large pot of water to a boil for the pasta. When the water starts to boil, add the tortellini and cook for about 4 minutes, until cooked through. Drain the pasta in a colander, rinse under cold water, then drain again, shaking the colander well to remove all the water. Transfer the pasta to a large bowl.

3. Remove the garlic clove from the tomato mixture, then add the mixture to the pasta along with the prosciutto and mozzarella. Season with salt and pepper, mix well, and serve, or cover the salad tightly and refrigerate. This salad will keep for up to 48 hours. Remove it from the refrigerator ½ hour before serving.

Tip

If you can’t find fresh tortellini, use dried fusilli or penne for this dish.

Cold Peanut Noodles

This cool noodle dish makes a perfect warm-weather lunch or dinner.

Ingredients (serves four)

6 ounces Chinese ramen noodles or 8 ounces vermicelli

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 cucumber

½ cup smooth, “natural” peanut butter

¼ cup soy sauce

¼ cup white wine

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1 tablespoon honey

1 small clove garlic

1-inch piece fresh ginger or 1 teaspoon ground ginger

Chopped scallion, for garnish

Equipment

Pasta pot

Medium bowl

Colander

Blender or food processor

1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil for the pasta. When the water starts to boil, add the pasta and cook the ramen noodles according to the package directions, or the vermicelli until al dente, about 5 minutes. Drain the noodles in a colander and rinse under cold water until cool. Shake the colander well to release as much water as possible, then add the vegetable oil to the noodles and toss gently.

2. While the water is coming to a boil and the pasta is cooking, peel the cucumber

and cut it in half lengthwise. Scrape out the seeds with the tip of a spoon and cut the cucumber into ½-inch slices. Put the slices in a medium bowl, cover, and refrigerate until ready to use.

3. Blend the peanut butter, soy sauce, white wine, lemon juice, honey, garlic, and ginger in a blender on medium speed or in a food processor, until completely smooth. Set the mixture aside.

4. Transfer the noodles to a serving platter. Pour on the peanut sauce and toss gently. Garnish with the cucumber slices and chopped scallion. Serve immediately.

Tip

“Natural” or unhydrogenated peanut butter is available in most supermarkets and all health food stores. It has the proper texture and flavor for this dish. For a more subtle flavor, substitute sesame butter (also known as tahini).

Asian Noodles with Chicken & Ham

This dish requires some serious stir-frying, a technique that is a study in contrasts. First there is the chopping, methodical and neat. Then you heat up the frying pan or wok and start cooking like mad, tossing in ingredients, adding sauces, all the while stirring rapidly. You’ll be done with the stir-frying in about 5 minutes, and the results will be better than most dishes you get in a Chinese restaurant.

Ingredients (serves four)

¾ pound soba (buckwheat) noodles or thin spaghetti

1 tablespoon olive oil, for tossing the noodles

½ teaspoon curry powder

½ teaspoon Chinese five-spice powder

¼ cup soy sauce

¼ cup white wine or sherry

1 tablespoon honey

1 medium onion, thinly sliced

2 ribs celery, cut diagonally into ¼-inch slices

2 cloves garlic, minced

2 carrots, grated

1 cup frozen peas

2 boneless chicken breasts, cut into thin slices

4 slices cooked ham (about 4 ounces), cut into 2 x ½-inch strips

5 tablespoons corn oil

Equipment

Pasta pot

Colander

4 small bowls

Whisk

Large, heavy frying pan or wok

Large cooking spoon

Medium bowl

1. Bring a large pot of water to boil for the noodles. When the water comes to a boil, cook the noodles until soft, about 4 minutes. Drain in a colander, toss with 1 tablespoon olive oil, and set aside.

2. While the water is coming to a boil and the noodles are cooking, in a small bowl, combine the curry powder, five-spice powder, soy sauce, wine or sherry, and honey. Whisk together and set aside.

3. In another small bowl, combine the sliced onion and celery. In another bowl, combine the garlic, carrots, and peas. Place the sliced chicken and ham in separate bowls.

4. Heat 2 tablespoons of the corn oil in a large frying pan or wok on high heat until it just begins to smoke, about 90 seconds.

5. Add the onion and celery, and stir-fry for 2 minutes. Add the garlic, carrot, and peas, and cook 1 minute, continuing to stir constantly. Transfer the vegetables to a medium bowl. Wipe out the pan with paper towels and put it back on the heat.

6. Add the remaining 3 tablespoons oil to the pan and let it get hot, about 15 seconds. Add the chicken slices and stir-fry until opaque, about 2 minutes. Add the ham and cook for 1 minute more. Add the vegetables and noodles to the pan and gently toss them together. Add the sauce, toss again, and turn off the heat.

7. Transfer to a serving bowl and serve immediately.