Never having tasted homemade bread still warm from the oven is like having watched only black-and-white television—without cable. Baking your own bread is uniquely satisfying: First, there’s the tactile sensation of kneading and shaping the loaves; then, as the house fills with the fragrant and comforting aroma, your taste buds begin to anticipate the first bites of warm, sweet, yeasty goodness.
We try to bake bread every Sunday in our house; one loaf goes in the bread drawer, one in the freezer, and we’re set for the week. The great thing about baking bread with the kids is that all hands can be involved in the measuring and mixing, and there’s always enough kneading and punching to go around. You can incorporate the process into other Sunday afternoon activities. We often assemble the dough before kickoff, let it rise during the first half, punch it down and make the loaves during halftime, and put it in the oven after the third quarter. By the time the teams are heading for the locker room, we’re tearing off our first chunks.
Included here are recipes for three basic breads as well as a couple of special breads and a quick pizza primer. Once you master these recipes, you can begin to improvise, and then the sky’s the limit. First, though, a few of the ABCs of bread-making.
To novice breadmakers, the directions for making bread—“punch down,” “knead,” “double in bulk”—sound more like a physical workout than a recipe. And is yeast really that fussy? Dissolve in “warm but not hot liquid.” In time you’ll learn that yeast, though high spirited, is actually quite resilient. It’s the magic that determines all the motions and rhythms of baking bread.
Yeast is a fungus that eats sugar, which results in fermentation. The fermentation creates gas, causing the dough to rise. The yeast feeds first off the sugar added to the dough, and then on the sugar contained in the starch granules of the flour.
Yeast is activated by contact with warm liquid. All recipes specify “lukewarm” liquid (105°–115°F). If it’s too hot, it will kill the yeast; if it’s too cold, it will slow its action. A good test is to put a few drops on your wrist. If it feels a tad warmer than your body temperature, you’ll know, like Goldilocks, it’s just right.
Proofing enables you to judge if the yeast is active and the liquid is the right temperature (sort of like a pre-game warmup). Combine the yeast, warm liquid, and sugar in a large bowl. After about 5 minutes a distinct odor will develop and a foam of active yeast will appear on the surface of the water. The foam is the proof that the yeast is ready to work.
A large wooden board is ideal, as the rough surface of the wood helps in the kneading. If necessary, you can use a section of countertop, as long as it is completely dry and there are no appliances around to impede kneading. Keep the surface very lightly floured to prevent the bread from sticking, being careful not to add too much flour. Once the dough stops sticking to your hands and the work surface, do not add any more flour.
Kneading helps develop the gluten and the minuscule air pockets in the dough. The process is one of turning, folding, and pressing the dough. First, lightly flour the work surface. Grip the lump of dough in the center with both hands, as if you are gripping the handlebars of a bicycle. Then dig your palms into the dough as you press down and slightly out, making sure the dough is rubbing hard against the board. Fold the dough over itself and repeat, making sure the new section has contact with the board. This is repeated steadily for 6 to 8 minutes (though it may take up to 10 or 12) until the dough is smooth and satiny.
Lightly pushing the dough against the board is not kneading. You really must put your weight into it. Work on a low table if that gives you better leverage, and provide a stool for the kids if they need it. Above all, kneading requires patience and stamina.
As the yeast cells multiply, they continue to produce carbon dioxide, which causes the dough to expand and rise. The dough should be in a warm place (though not in the oven or near a heater) to keep the yeast active. Cover the bowl with a damp dish towel to protect the dough from drafts and contamination. Bread dough usually takes 1½–2 hours to rise until doubled in bulk. Denser doughs, such as pumpernickel, will take a bit longer. Do not let the dough more than double in size. It will lose its chewiness and taste too yeasty.
Divide the dough in half. Shape each piece into a rectangle slightly shorter than the length of the loaf pan, then fold up the dough in thirds, the way you would a letter. Gently pinch the seam together and lay the dough in the pan, seam side down.
When tapped gently on the bottom, a fully baked loaf will sound hollow. Do not judge by the crust, which gets hard before the bread is fully baked and softens as the bread cools. If you don’t trust the hollow tapping method, insert a wooden skewer into the middle of the bread. If it comes out clean, the bread is done.
Most breads pull away from the sides of the pan as they bake. Before removing a loaf from its pan, run a butter knife around the edge of the pan to loosen it. Then turn the loaf pan upside down to release the bread. Transfer the loaf to a cooling rack.
You can work all afternoon making some fine bread and then ruin it by slicing it too soon. Be patient and let the loaf cool properly, for at least 20 minutes, before trying to slice it. Still, cutting those first few slices can be tricky. Lay the warm loaf on its side and cut with a serrated bread knife. Use only the lightest possible pressure and cut slowly. If you press down hard you’ll wind up crushing the loaf.
Hard-crusted breads should be stored in a paper bag on the countertop or, ideally, in a traditional bread box or drawer. Soft-crusted bread should be stored in a plastic bag on the countertop or, again, in a bread box or drawer. If you plan on keeping a loaf of homemade bread for more than 2 or 3 days (commercial bread will last longer), wrap it in plastic and put it in the freezer. I don’t recommend storing homemade bread in the refrigerator as it gets stale more quickly than if left at room temperature. You can freshen stale bread by warming it in a hot oven or toaster for a minute or two.
To freeze loaves of bread, let them cool completely, for at least 2 hours on a cooling rack, before storing in well-sealed plastic bags. If desired, slice the bread before freezing it so that you can take out only what you need.
This is white bread the way it’s supposed to be, thick, chewy, and full flavored. Have some butter and jam ready when it’s time for slicing. This bread also makes sublime French toast.
Ingredients (makes two loaves)
¼ cup butter or margarine, melted
2 cups milk
2 tablespoons sugar
1 package (1 scant tablespoon) active dry yeast
2 teaspoons salt
5–6 cups unbleached all-purpose flour, plus extra for dusting the work surface
Vegetable oil, for oiling bowl and loaf pans
1 large egg white beaten with 1 tablespoon water (optional)
Equipment
Small saucepan
2 large bowls
Wooden spoon
2 5 x 9-inch loaf pans
Serrated knife
Pastry brush (optional)
Cooling rack
1. Add the milk to the saucepan and heat until just lukewarm. Remove the milk from the heat and let cool slightly.
2. Pour the lukewarm milk into a large bowl. Add the sugar. Sprinkle the yeast evenly on top of the milk. Let the mixture sit in a warm place for 5 minutes until the yeast begins to bubble and foam.
3. Add the melted butter or margarine and the salt to the yeast mixture and stir with a wooden spoon. Add the 5 cups flour, 1 cup at a time, blending well after each addition. Add only enough flour to make a firm but pliable dough that is just slightly sticky.
4. Sprinkle a work surface with a scant ¼ cup flour. Transfer the dough to the work surface and knead the dough for about 7 minutes, until it is smooth and supple. Add more flour, ¼ cup at a time, if the dough is still sticky.
5. Wipe the inside of another large bowl with vegetable oil. Place the dough in the bowl and then turn it over so the top of the dough is coated with a thin layer of oil. Place a slightly damp dish towel over the bowl and put it in a warm, draft-free place until it has doubled in bulk, about 1½–2 hours.
6. Punch down the dough with your fist until all the air pockets burst. Knead the dough a few more times on a lightly floured work surface, then divide the dough in half and shape it into loaves.
7. Wipe the inside of the loaf pans well with oil. Place the dough in the pans, cover with the damp dish towel, and set aside to double in bulk, about 45 minutes.
8. Preheat the oven to 375°F.
9. When the dough has fully risen, use a serrated knife or single-edge razor to make 3 shallow slashes in the top of each loaf. If you want a soft, shiny crust, brush the top of the loaves with the egg white–water mixture. (The crust will be crisp if you don’t brush with egg white mixture.) Place the loaf pans on the center rack of the oven and bake about 40–45 minutes, until the loaves sound hollow when tapped in the center.
10. Run a butter knife around the edge of the pan and tip out the loaves. Place them on a cooling rack for at least 20 minutes before slicing.
This hearty bread, made slightly sweet with the addition of molasses, could easily become the loaf of preference around your house.
Ingredients (makes two loaves)
1 cup milk
¼ cup molasses
2 tablespoons vegetable oil, plus extra for oiling the bowl and loaf pans
2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon honey
1 package (1 scant tablespoon) active dry yeast
1–1½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour, plus extra for dusting the work surface
4 cups whole wheat flour
1 large egg white beaten with 1 tablespoon water (optional)
Equipment
Small saucepan
2 large bowls
Small bowl
Wooden spoon
2 5 x 9-inch loaf pans
Cooling rack
1. Heat the milk in a small saucepan over low heat until tiny bubbles appear around the edges (this is called scalding). Pour the scalded milk into a large bowl and stir in the molasses, oil, and salt. Cool to lukewarm.
2. Measure 1 cup lukewarm water into a small bowl. Stir in the honey and evenly sprinkle on the yeast. Let sit for 3 minutes, then add this mixture to the cooled milk mixture, stirring with a wooden spoon. Stir in 1 cup all-purpose flour, then add the whole wheat flour, 1 cup at a time, blending well after each addition. Add only enough flour to make a firm but pliable dough that is just slightly sticky.
3. Sprinkle the work surface with a scant ¼ cup all-purpose flour. Transfer the dough to your work surface.
4. Knead the dough for about 9 minutes, until it is smooth and supple, adding more all-purpose flour, ¼ cup at a time, if it is still sticky.
5. Wipe the inside of a large bowl with vegetable oil. Place the dough in the bowl, then turn it over so the top of the dough is coated with a thin layer of oil. Place a slightly damp dish towel over the bowl and set aside in a warm, draft-free place until doubled in bulk, about 1½–2 hours.
6. Punch down the dough with your fist until there are no air bubbles left. Knead the dough a few more times on a lightly floured work surface, then divide the dough in half and shape it into 2 loaves.
7. Wipe the inside of 2 loaf pans well with oil. Place the dough in the pans, cover with the dish towel, and set aside until doubled in bulk, about 45 minutes.
8. Preheat the oven to 425°F.
9. After the dough has risen a second time, use a pastry brush to gently brush the top of the loaves with some water to make a crisper crust. Brush with the egg white– water mixture for a softer, shinier crust.
10. Place the pans on the center rack of the oven and bake for 10 minutes, then lower the heat to 350°F and bake about 45 minutes more, until the loaves sound hollow when tapped and have shrunk slightly from the sides of the pan.
11. Run a butter knife around the edges of the pans and tip out the loaves. Place on a cooling rack for at least another 20 minutes before slicing.
Pumpernickel dough is denser than other dough, so it takes more strength to knead and more time to rise—about 4 hours total as opposed to approximately 2¾ hours for the Country White Bread.
Ingredients (makes one loaf)
1¼ cups lukewarm water (105°–115°F)
1 tablespoon sugar
1 package (1 scant tablespoon) active dry yeast
2 tablespoons molasses
2 tablespoons vegetable oil, plus extra for greasing the baking pan
1 tablespoon salt
1½ cups whole wheat flour
1½ cups rye flour
1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour, plus extra for dusting the work surface
¼ cup cornmeal
¾ cup raisins
Equipment
2 large bowls
Medium bowl
Wooden spoon
Whisk
11 x 17-inch baking sheet
Cooling rack
1. Measure ¼ cup of the warm water into a large bowl. Stir in the sugar and evenly sprinkle on the yeast. Let the mixture sit for 5 minutes.
2. Stir in the molasses, oil, salt, and the remaining 1 cup warm water. Set aside.
3. In a medium bowl, use a whisk to combine the whole wheat, rye, and all-purpose flours and the cornmeal. Add the flour mixture to the yeast mixture 1 cup at a time, mixing well with a wooden spoon after each addition. The last 2 cups will take a bit more effort to incorporate. Add only enough flour to make a pliable and somewhat sticky dough.
4. Sprinkle a work surface with a scant ¼ cup all-purpose flour. Transfer the dough to the work surface.
5. Knead the dough for at least 10 minutes. It should still be slightly sticky. Do not try to make the dough completely smooth. Toward the end of the kneading, spread the raisins, a handful at a time, on the work surface and knead them into the dough.
6. Wipe the inside of another large bowl with vegetable oil. Place the dough in the bowl and then turn it over so the top of the dough is coated with a thin layer of oil. Cover the bowl with a slightly damp dish towel and put it in a warm, draft-free place until doubled in bulk, about 2–2½ hours.
7. Punch down the dough with your fist until there are no air bubbles left. Knead the dough a few more times on a floured work surface, then shape it into a round loaf.
8. Lightly grease an 11 x 17-inch baking sheet. Place the loaf on the baking sheet and cover it with the damp dish towel. Set aside in a warm, draft-free place until doubled in bulk, about 1½–2 hours.
9. Preheat the oven to 375°F.
10. When the dough has fully risen, place the baking pan on the center rack of the oven and bake about 35–40 minutes, until the loaf sounds hollow when tapped.
11. Place the loaf on a rack and cool for at least 20 minutes before slicing.
This sweet bread can be served with all sorts of meals, most happily with chili. This recipe makes a lot of corn bread, but the kids always seem to gobble it down fast.
Ingredients (makes twenty pieces)
10 tablespoons (1¼ sticks) butter, plus extra for greasing the pan
3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
2 cups yellow cornmeal
1 cup sugar
1 tablespoon baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
2⅔ cups milk
2 large eggs
Equipment
9½ x 13½-inch baking pan
Small saucepan
Large bowl
Whisk
Medium bowl
Wooden spoon
Rubber spatula
Cooling rack
1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease a 9½ x 13½-inch baking pan with butter.
2. Melt the butter in a small saucepan.
3. Use a whisk to combine the flour, cornmeal, sugar, baking powder, and salt in a large bowl.
4. Whisk together the milk, eggs, and the melted butter in a medium bowl. Pour the liquid mixture into the flour mixture and blend well with a wooden spoon until all the flour mixture is incorporated. The batter should be very moist but not runny.
5. Use a rubber spatula to transfer the batter to the prepared baking pan and spread the batter evenly over the whole pan.
6. Bake the bread on the center rack of the oven about 12 minutes, until it is set (i.e., doesn’t wiggle in the middle) and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean.
7. Let the bread cool on a rack in the pan for 20 minutes before cutting into squares.
This bread doesn’t use yeast and requires no rising time, so you can throw it together in a jiffy. Keep it in mind when you want to take a gift of food along to a dinner party.
Ingredients (makes two loaves)
4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar
3 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon salt
1¾ cups buttermilk
1 large egg
½ cup raisins or currants
¼ cup vegetable oil, plus extra for greasing the baking sheet
Equipment
11 x 17-inch baking sheet
Large bowl
Whisk
Medium bowl
Wooden spoon
Serrated knife
Cooling rack
1. Preheat the oven to 375°F. Lightly grease an 11 x 17-inch baking sheet with vegetable oil.
2. Use a whisk to combine the flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, and salt in a large bowl.
3. Whisk together the buttermilk, egg, raisins or currants, and ¼ cup vegetable oil in a medium bowl.
4. Pour the wet ingredients into the flour mixture and mix well with a wooden spoon.
5. Transfer the dough to a lightly floured work surface and knead until smooth, about 2 minutes.
6. Divide the dough in half and shape each half into a round loaf. Place each loaf on the prepared baking sheet, leaving a few inches between them to allow for expansion. Use a serrated knife or a single-edge razor blade to make an “X” in the center of each loaf.
7. Bake the bread on the center rack of the oven about 35–40 minutes, until the top is light brown and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean.
8. Let the loaves cool on the baking sheet for 20 minutes. Transfer the loaves to a rack and let them cool for another 20 minutes before slicing.
Making pizza at home is a simple operation. It requires few ingredients, little work, and no special equipment. And your pizza will be as good as, if not better than, the pies made in most local pizza shops.
Ingredients (makes two 16-inch pizza crusts)
2 cups lukewarm water (105°–115°F)
1 teaspoon sugar
2 packages active dry yeast
4½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1½ cups whole wheat flour
¼ cup olive oil, plus extra for greasing the baking sheet
1 tablespoon salt
Equipment
11 x 17-inch baking sheet
2 large bowls
Whisk
Wooden spoon
1. Lightly grease an 11 x 17-inch baking sheet with vegetable oil.
2. Measure the lukewarm water into a large bowl. Add the sugar and sprinkle on the yeast in an even layer. Let the mixture sit for 7 minutes.
3. Combine the flours in a large bowl using the whisk.
4. Add the olive oil and salt to the yeast mixture, then the flours, 1 cup at a time, and stir with a wooden spoon until the flour is incorporated. The dough should be slightly sticky.
5. Lightly flour a work surface and knead the dough for 8–10 minutes, until smooth.
6. Divide the dough in half and shape each half into a ball. Place each ball on the prepared baking sheet, leaving about 4 inches between to accommodate expansion.
7. Cover the dough with a damp dish towel and let it rise in a warm, draft-free place for 1 hour.
Although pizza can be made on ordinary baking sheets, for a crisper crust it is best to use a round pizza stone or screen. (Both are found in most kitchenware stores.) You can count on using it again and again to make this Friday-night special that kids just scarf up.
Ingredients (makes two 16-inch pizzas)
Olive oil, if using baking sheets
Flour, for dusting the work surface
1 recipe Pizza Dough or your favorite store-bought dough
2 cups Basic Tomato Sauce (page 182) or your favorite store-bought sauce
1 pound mozzarella cheese, grated
Assorted toppings (see opposite page)
Equipment
Pizza stone, pizza screen, or 2 11 x 17-inch baking sheets
Rolling pin (optional)
Ladle
Large spatula
Pizza cutter
Cutting board
1. Position a rack as low as possible in the oven and preheat to 450°F. If using baking sheets, lightly grease them with the olive oil.
2. Lightly dust a work surface with flour. Punch down 1 ball of dough and use your fingers (or rolling pin) to push it out to half the desired size, roughly 8 inches across.
3. Lightly flour both sides of your hands. Drape the edge of the dough over your fists and use your knuckles to turn and stretch the dough until it is approximately 16 inches across. It should be slightly thicker around the edges.
4. Lay the dough on the pizza stone or screen or fit the dough into the baking sheets.
5. Assemble and bake one pizza at a time, as follows: Ladle 1 cup tomato sauce in the center of the dough and spread evenly to cover.
6. Sprinkle on half the grated mozzarella in an even layer.
7. Arrange your choice of toppings over the cheese.
8. Bake the pizzas, one at a time, on the lowest rack of the oven for about 10 minutes, until the cheese bubbles and the bottom of the crust is crispy.
9. Use a large spatula to slide the pizza from the stone or baking sheet onto a cutting board. Let the pizza cool for 1 minute before slicing with a pizza cutter or large knife.
10. Assemble the second pizza while the first one is in the oven, then put the second one in the oven as you sit down to eat the first.
Tips
• Make sure there are no holes in the dough. If any holes appear while you are stretching the dough, patch them up by folding the dough over the hole and stretching again.
• Stretching the dough over the backs of your hands assures that the crust will be light and crispy, but it takes a little practice. After three or four pizzas, you should get the hang of it. If necessary, roll the dough out fully with a rolling pin.
• To make a lip around the pizza, fold the dough over itself around the edge.
Topping Suggestions
• Extra cheese
• Capers
• Chile peppers
• Sun-dried tomatoes
• Thinly sliced red onion
• Italian sausage
• Pine nuts
• Sautéed spinach
• Artichoke hearts
• Anchovies
• Shrimp
• Thinly sliced pepperoni
• Sliced mushrooms
• Gorgonzola
• Strips of red, yellow, and green bell peppers
• Hamburger
• Sliced olives
These old-fashioned biscuits are quick and easy to make. Serve with butter, jam, or marmalade.
Ingredients (makes twelve scones)
2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
6 tablespoons sugar
3 teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon salt
6 tablespoons (¾ stick) cold butter, plus extra for greasing the baking sheet
1 large egg
1 cup heavy cream or whole milk
½ cup currants, dried cranberries, raisins, or chocolate chips (optional)
Equipment
11 x 17-inch baking sheet
Large bowl
Medium bowl
Whisk
Wooden spoon
Pastry brush
Cake tester
1. Preheat the oven to 375°F. Lightly grease the baking sheet with butter.
2. Using a wooden spoon, mix together the dry ingredients in a large bowl.
3. Cut the cold butter (margarine is not suitable as it changes the consistency of the dough) into small pieces and scatter them into the dry mixture. Working quickly with the tips of your fingers, break the butter into pieces the size of peas.
4. Beat the egg with a whisk in a medium bowl, then add the cream or milk. Set aside 2 tablespoons of the egg mixture to use later for brushing on top of the scones. Add the currants, cranberries, raisins, or chocolate chips to the egg mixture.
5. Pour the wet ingredients into the flour mixture. Stir with the wooden spoon until the liquid is just incorporated. The dough should be soft and slightly sticky. If the dough sticks to your fingers, add more flour 1 tablespoon at a time. If the dough is stiff and doesn’t hold together, add more cream or milk 1 tablespoon at a time.
6. Divide the dough in half and shape into 2 balls. Place each ball on either end of the prepared baking sheet and press down to form 2 circles, each about 6 inches across and 1 inch thick.
7. Cut each circle of dough into 6 wedges, then pull the wedges away from each other slightly so they are barely touching. Lightly brush the tops of the wedges with the reserved egg mixture.
8. Bake on the center oven rack for 12 minutes, or until the tops are lightly browned and a cake tester inserted in the thickest part comes out clean.
Time-Saver
Steps 2, 3, and 4 can be done in advance. Just cover the separate bowls with plastic wrap and refrigerate the liquids.